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Over 4,704 reviews for
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is very knowledgable and professional. He is my
guy for electrical work. Cant say enough good things about the way" I was treated as a customer.
is the best. He went above and beyond my expectations. Need electrical work done...call

-Jeffrey W.

"Not well at all. I spent nearly 10K on what should have been a 3-5K job, thinking that I would get good quality, timeliness and professionalism since I was paying" more. I was okay with paying what I knew was above the
rate because I assumed I wouldn't have to micromanage the work and that it will be performed if not flawlessly, at least decently. I instead dealt with a steady stream of ridiculous problems - everything from hanging sliding closet doors with a few inch gap between the doors and the floor (they constructed the closet, so no idea how they managed to measure that incorrectly) to installing outlets and switches that do not work. Bizarre thing was that the job was a
one: 90% of it was framing and drywall. The part that I found most distressing - besides the shoddy work that after follow up was corrected and completed - was that I was billed for hours that I am pretty sure were not performed. One of our two workers stated that most of the job's problems came from his co-worker and explained that the co-worker was inexperienced and had been arriving late and leaving early. He later told me that the co-worker had been fired. So, I was basically paying about 100/hour for a worker who wasn't even showing up and was substandard. Yup, unsurprisingly, I was billed for full days for this worker. Lovely. Whatever, I paid it. That's what I get for thinking that if I paid more I would get a better service. I didn't even get standard service. I'm just pretty disappointed in the whole experience ... which is a lot to say since I have at this point renovated four houses, and dealt with all sorts of contractors - but I've never been ripped off like this before. Feel like quite the chump.

-Eric N.

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Local Articles in Little Chute

snowy house

The Angie's List Guide to Winter Maintenance

It's the time of year when the winter weather can take a toll. Follow this winter maintenance checklist to protect your home, your car and your health.

Ryan Electric owner Pat Ryan says he always makes sure clients inspect his work and are satisfied before he leaves a job. (Photo courtesy of Brody Ryan)

Hiring an Electrician

Good electricians require extensive training and continuing education to keep up with constantly changing technology. Your residential electrical contractor provides an important service to keep your home running safely and smoothly, so you want to hire the best possible person. Read this Homeowner's Guide to Hiring an Electrician to learn more before you hire.

Electrical work is extremely dangerous, so make sure you hire a licensed pro for work around the home.

If you discover that you have an old Federal Pacific breaker box, a faulty circuit breaker or an outdated fuse box, how much can you expect to pay to have a qualified electrician replace it?

electrical wiring

Electrical work requires trade knowledge and following code regulations in most states

outdoor lighting electricity
Lighting, Electrical

If you're experiencing electrical problems in your home or want to add capacity for new projects, consider hiring an electrician for these four services.

An outside outlet needs to be weather protected and include a ground fault circuit interrupter. (Photo by Gretchen Becker)

What does it take to install an outdoor outlet, and how much does it cost? Highly rated electricians say it’s not as difficult or costly as you might think.

Angie's Answers

Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).


Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.


An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.


A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.


Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.


If you already have a fixture there, around $100 plus or minus about $30 if not over 7 or 30 pounds, or about $200-300 if weighs over about 7 or 30 pounds. The 7 or 30 pound ranges are dependent on whether the existing box is plastic or a standard Square-D type or equivalent metal one, because each type of box can only hold so much weight. If existing box is rated 70 pounds or more (ceiling fan or large chandelier rated) then the $100 range should do it regardless.


I am assuming when you say mini-pendants you meant from a single box if more than one. If you meant two separate by some feet, add probably about $100 more to add a second box, ASSUMING they will both be run off the same single switch.


IF you do NOT have a light fixture there now, then can run from $150-300 range if there is easy access from above (open attic) to $500 or more if has to tear into drywall to install wiring and box so you then have to get drywall contractor and painter in to repair the damages.


Electrical reviews in Little Chute


Little Chute Electricians Provider Name Locked
was very responsive to my asking for an estimate; I think he came to my house the next day, which was a Friday.
Little Chute Electricians Provider Name Locked
said that he would have an estimate to me sometime that weekend but he didn't. I was okay with him forgetting or being too busy to get to it, but I called him on the following Monday and left a message; I have yet to hear from him and have since had a recommendable electrician take care of my needs.
- Jodi B.

Little Chute Electricians Provider Name Locked
was subcontracted by Kitchen Doctors (who are a pleasure to work with), rather than chosen by me.
Little Chute Electricians Provider Name Locked
, on telephone, was unfailingly pleasant and responsive.
Little Chute Electricians Provider Name Locked
, the owner, came to plan the job, arrived on time, was professional, and provided estimates promptly. All work appears to have been done neatly and so far as I can tell expertly. Communications were poor in 3 areas, however, hence the C's.
Little Chute Electricians Provider Name Locked
gave an estimate directly to Kitchen Doctors, as originally planned. I considered dealing with them directly, so asked them to send an estimate to me. That estimate was several hundred dollars higher, so I advised
Little Chute Electricians Provider Name Locked
to go ahead with the original quote with Kitchen Doctors, and I advised KD of the same, and both agreed. I did not sign any proposal. Now
Little Chute Electricians Provider Name Locked
tells me they expect me to pay my estimate directly.
On my pre-job walk through with
Little Chute Electricians Provider Name Locked
. we thought a cabinet would encroach on an existing switch-plate necessitating its change to a less convenient location. It turned out not to be necessary to move it, and KD crew was working alongside the
Little Chute Electricians Provider Name Locked
crew and advised them that movement was not necessary, but
Little Chute Electricians Provider Name Locked
crew stated it was on their work order so they were going ahead with it. I was charged for work that didn't need doing, and have an inconveniently located switch.
Little Chute Electricians Provider Name Locked
has lectured me on giving accurate information and accepting responsibility, stating that what is said on the walk through, and written on the estimate, is not subject to change. Maybe in an ideal world, but in my real world I tell him my understanding of the need, and if that turns out to be wrong a
Little Chute Electricians Provider Name Locked
phone call can resolve it. Any inumber of other suppliers and contractors seem to have no trouble with that kind of flexibility. So this is me accepting responsibility for the information I gave on a walk through, and paying for it, with a warning to the reader to be VERY sure of each detail of your job description with this group.
On the walk through I specified reostats for two circuits, and failed to notice the lack of any mention of it in the estimate. Not only did I get no reostats, but an exixting reostat was removed from another circuit. OK, again I should have really read the fine print--can't assume anything here.
No big catasrophes here, just talking about little miscommunications that most companies would take in stride, but
Little Chute Electricians Provider Name Locked
really felt the need to be pretty hard line in response. Having real a lot of "A" ratings on
Little Chute Electricians Provider Name Locked
I had high hopes for this one. Alas Best regards to all.
Little Chute Electricians Provider Name Locked

- Bob & Joyce S.

Little Chute Electricians Provider Name Locked
was fantastic. Punctual, professional, and efficient.
Little Chute Electricians Provider Name Locked
, the electrician, was great! He and his co-worker put on booties when they came into the house. Laid down a rug to wipe their feet, before putting on their booties. They finished the job by the promised time and the work they did was very good. I would definitely use them again.
- Twanna W.

They called before they left their last job, as promised. They arrived and got right to work. The fan was installed and I even requested that they perform an additional electrical service while onsite.
- Deidre S.

I have had silly little electrical problems for a while, not big enough to spend hundreds of dollars on calling an electrician, so when a deal for $79 for an electrician for 2 hours came up, I jumped on it.
Little Chute Electricians Provider Name Locked
was the electrician who showed up to do the work and, though the jobs were the result of small problems, he went to work without a complaint & was able to fix them or explain what needed to be done to fix them in the future. (In one case, a 4-way switch was defective, and I will need to get another switch at some point, but meanwhile, he put everything back so that it looked good.) In an hour, he took care of the three main problems I had hired Enchanted to fix and then went on and fix another problem that I had forgotten about. Meanwhile, he offered me some good advice about my fire alarms--later confirmed by my alarm monitoring system--and left me feeling that I definitely got my monney's worth. How often does THAT happen!?

- Catherine S.

I had a loud popping sound that was happening intermittently when I would turn on some wall switches and a ceiling fan. I was worried that I might have a serious and expensive problem. I scheduled an appointment and
Little Chute Electricians Provider Name Locked
was prompt and very professional. He took the time to listen to me and quickly diagnosed the problem as the ancient 1980's hard-wired smoke detector in my hallway. He did not have a replacement one with him, but we scheduled a second appointment for him to come back to change out the detector. His pricing was very fair and included the cost of the detector. I am very pleased with this company and would definitely contact them again when I need the services of an electrician.
- Sharon N.

Little Chute Electricians Provider Name Locked
showed up on time with less than 24 hours notice to accomadate my schedule. Quick and efficient service call. Can't ask for anything more. Especially with the track record of SF contractors I have encountered.
- Lydia B.

Little Chute Electricians Provider Name Locked
is always very professional and sends someone that knows what they are doing. I always feel that the electrician is doing his best to get the job done in a timely manner as to not run up charges. I use them all the time and am always very happy with their service.
- margaret R.

All Electricians in Little Chute, WI

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!


116 N 12th St


3061 W Elberg Ave

Advanced Constructon & Electrical Service

4611 Grand Meadows Dr.

Alan's Electric

N1194 Pine Grove Rd

Alexander Technical Resources

1263 Glenwood Ave SE

All Around the House Services, LLC

217 East Ducharme St

All Energy Solar

121 Orange St

Alternate Energys Inc

228 Mueller St

American Electric Service Inc

812 Carol Lynn Dr
Little Chute

American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd

American TV & Appliance of Appleton

1870 Casaloma Dr



Bartmann Bros. Construction

2706 S. Fountain Avenue

Beez Electric, Inc.

PO Box 2332

Benjamin Lake

805 Heather Ln

Bissing Electric, Inc

2390 W Nordale Dr

Budget Handyman Solutions, LLC

1154 Abrams street
Green Bay

CT Electric

5783 Erie st
Butte Des Morts


1729 University Ave
Green Bay

DirectBuy of Indianapolis

8450 Westfield Blvd

Distinctive Renovations


Dr Fix It

5701 County Rd BB

Drucks Sudden Service

314 Appleton St.

Eisch Electric Inc.

PO Box 621

Eland Electric Corp

3154 Holmgren Way
Green Bay

Excellence Electric Inc

1412 E Main St
Little Chute

Exquisite Designs

47332 Sterdley Falls

Forward Electrical Contractors LLC

820 Coronis Way
Green Bay

Hometown Electrical Solutions LLC

2950 Loderbauer Road

JP Electric, LLC

1615 Oregon St

K&B Electric LLC

2014 Elvira Way
Green Bay

Lake Drive Solutions

N6131 Lake Drive

LCF Remodel & Design

2060 Sweetbriar Lane

Lewins Electric LLC

202 E Mckinley St

Master Electrical Services

1913 Mill St
New London

Mr. Handyman of the Fox Cities

3962 N. Richmond Street

MY Electric Corp.

6012 Koelpin Rd.


396 Riverdale Dr

New Horizon Electric, LLC

189 View Point Rd

Nikos Home Improvement LLC

1509 S Outagamie St

Power Play Electric

1805 N Arlington Pl


1715 E ELM DR
Little Chute

Radon Specialists of WI

1072 Rock Ledge Ln


1700 Lamers Dr
Little Chute


Little Chute

Saving Cash Magazine

717 Eisenhower Dr. Ste. D


Little Chute


2235 Northern Rd


Little Chute

Steve Farris Handyman

1460 Lancelot Way

TVC Electric

5996 Hiawatha Dr


Green Bay


12637 S 265 W Suite 100




PO Box 70866

Werner Electric

5663 County Road R



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