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Egg Harbor Electricians from people just like you.

is punctual and knowledgeable. He worked with my budget, and explained what I needed done, and what could wait. I will be calling him again" if anything comes up in the future.

-Heather G.

"I was having issues with several breakers in my box constantly going out. I would have to go outside and turn them back on even in the dark. I contacted
" Electrical to help me figure out what was going on with my breakers?
came out at our scheduled time and assessed the situation and showed me several problems inside the box and recommended to me that we change the panel and upgrade my service. He gave quote on the spot and we scheduled a time to perform the work. He showed up on time with a helper and they switched my electrical panel in about 4 hours. The job looked so good when they were done i asked them to change a ceiling fan for me while they were there. They were totally professional, honest, and had no
fees. I paid exactly what they quoted me. I would defiantly recommend them to anyone looking for quality electrical work.

-Heather W.

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Local Articles in Egg Harbor

Hiring an Electrician

Good electricians require extensive training and continuing education to keep up with constantly changing technology. Your residential electrical contractor provides an important service to keep your home running safely and smoothly, so you want to hire the best possible person. Read this Homeowner's Guide to Hiring an Electrician to learn more before you hire.

Electrical Troubleshooting

Although the potential dangers of electrocution and fire should make most homeowners wary of do-it-yourself electrical projects, there are some basic electric troubleshooting tips that can help when you are experiencing issues.

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Here are some of our favorite tips from highly rated service professionals over the past 20 years.

orange brick house in winter
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It's the time of year when the winter weather can take a toll. Follow this winter maintenance checklist to protect your home, your car and your health.

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Replacing an old circuit breaker box merits the expense — for a number of reasons.

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Angie's Answers

Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).


As I understand it, you are looking at putting in a fan where there is no ceiling electric outlet. Since I am not sure, will try to break out piece by piece, undersanding these wouyld all be lumped into one job (possibly excluding wiring new outlet and switch). I hate to be so general, but access is the key here - if access is easy and there is a suitable light switch in the same room, cost can be at the low end of this range. If assess is poor and you don't want holes knocked in your drywall, then get more expensive real fast.

1) cost of fan typically $125-250 unless high end model

2) remove existing regular 4" box, install supports to joists and new box (ceiling fans need specially supported boxes due to the extra weight and swaying motion of the fans) $50-75

3) tap electric from existing circuit at existing box, upgrade existing light switch box to add one or two more switches (Adjustable for fan speed, 2nd for light, if so equipped), run wiring to ceiling fixture $125-250

4) put up fan, connect, test $75-100

So - total About $250-425 with no box there now, plus cost of fixture. A simple install to replace an existing fan, or install where the ceiling box was wired for a fan, would be only about $75-100.

This all assumes the existing nearby electric circuit can handle the addition of the fan - if not, then wiring cost will go up. It also assumes there is access via open attic or joists to install the wiring. Otherwise, installation cost OK but does NOT include repair to holes in drywall or ceiling to pull wiring.

Note also that an existing ceiling light box would probably NOT fill the bill - code in almost all jurisdictions requires 12 ga wire for fan motors, most household circuits are 14 or 16 gauge, so would need new wire pulled from a circuit with adequate capacity.

Get bids ! I worked on one job where the owner in a high-end house decided to put in fans with fancy candeliers underneath after construction was done - cost almost $3000 to do installation because all the wall and ceilings were finished in a high-end finish, so all wire pulling had to be done remotely - including removing siding to put in pull boxes at changes of direction and fasten conduit to studs. PLAN AHEAD !



Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.


An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.


A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.


Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.


If you already have a fixture there, around $100 plus or minus about $30 if not over 7 or 30 pounds, or about $200-300 if weighs over about 7 or 30 pounds. The 7 or 30 pound ranges are dependent on whether the existing box is plastic or a standard Square-D type or equivalent metal one, because each type of box can only hold so much weight. If existing box is rated 70 pounds or more (ceiling fan or large chandelier rated) then the $100 range should do it regardless.


I am assuming when you say mini-pendants you meant from a single box if more than one. If you meant two separate by some feet, add probably about $100 more to add a second box, ASSUMING they will both be run off the same single switch.


IF you do NOT have a light fixture there now, then can run from $150-300 range if there is easy access from above (open attic) to $500 or more if has to tear into drywall to install wiring and box so you then have to get drywall contractor and painter in to repair the damages.

Electrician reviews in Egg Harbor


We bought an electric range which came with a 4 pront electric cord and we needed to install a wall outlet for it. But out house being older than 1990s it is only 3 phase wiring and there is no separate neutral wire. So
Egg Harbor Electricians Provider Name Locked
had to give us an estimate for how much it would cost to run the wiring and we found it was very steep. Somewhere around 500$ plus 250$ parts. This was more expensive than the cost of the range.
Then I went to Lowe's and read the manual for cooking range. It said it could work with both 3 wire and 4 wire outlet. I showed it to
Egg Harbor Electricians Provider Name Locked
and they agreed to install on next visit without any extra change. Which was good. But the concern I have is that, they must be facing this situation almost every week and they should have know the solution. They should have known that new cooking ranges come with ability work with old and new wiring. I had to spend a lot of time to research this and I had to confirm with AMS that it wont break electrical codes before going with 3 wire outlet. It would have saved both of us a lot more time if they would have suggested to show the manual and given a quick solution. I am not sure if they were trying to make more money by getting us to install extra wiring for this single wall outlet. But it sounded like that to me at least.
- Abhijit J.

Egg Harbor Electricians Provider Name Locked
was wonderful, he arrived on time, was very kind and polite. He is very nice and professional. He fixed the problems left behind,by the previous worker. Thank you
Egg Harbor Electricians Provider Name Locked
- Susana D.

He does great work - if you can get him to show up... After nine months of waiting for our doors to be installed, he made up every excuse to not show up and work. He then tried to demand more money for the project, even though we already had agreed in contract how much the project would cost. We finally had to demand that the he return our doors. When we went to pick them up, he was arrogant and saw nothing wrong with the way he conducted business. So disappointed...
- Kellie A.

We met with
Egg Harbor Electricians Provider Name Locked
just before doing demo work on our house. He was a real pleasure to deal with and his price was within our budget.
On his first visit
Egg Harbor Electricians Provider Name Locked
and his crew installed the tv wall mount, a new wall outlet for the mount, installed a closet light with wall switch, changed out 10 outlets, connected the wiring for a ceiling fan to run off a wall switch, and re-wired an outside breaker box.
As our work progressed they came back on another visit to run the wiring for new appliances and kitchen lights as well as install ceiling mounts for ceiling fans and receptacles for the high hats. Have to give the second group credit because our basement was a death trap of boxes and such but they were completely ok with manuevering through our belongings.
The next 2 visits included the installation of the pendant lights, high hats, ceiling fans, kitchen outlets, and wiring of appliances. All of the visits between the first and last were different electricians but they were always courteous and happy to explain certain things.
On the final visit,
Egg Harbor Electricians Provider Name Locked
installed the under cabinet lighting, re-positioned an island outlet that had to be moved, and fixed one of the ceiling fans that was wobbling.
If there were any issues with the work, it was with the billing. We inquired several times for a receipt of payment after doing so, which we didn't receive. When we finally did, it did not include the additional work we asked for nor the money we had already paid. It wasn't until
Egg Harbor Electricians Provider Name Locked
brought in a new office manager that the issue was corrected.
Egg Harbor Electricians Provider Name Locked
was great and we highly recommend them.
- Gene Y.

After interviewing several electricians / companies we very happy to have selected
Egg Harbor Electricians Provider Name Locked
Services, Inc.
Egg Harbor Electricians Provider Name Locked
(The Owner), is an expert in his field, professional, polite, courtesy, punctual, fair, & honest. He prepared a detailed proposal and answered all of our questions, offered ideas & solutions, and kept us informed every step of the way.
Egg Harbor Electricians Provider Name Locked
was extremely patient and accommodating even when we made a few changes during the install. We were so pleased with the quality of his work, we plan to work with him again in the very near future for additional remodeling projects.

Well done and professional.
Originally, I bought the coupon for my garage, but they could not come within 2 weeks, so I had to get that done immediately. I used the coupon to put an new outlet on my patio, which was not what I originally intended. Still, it is nice to have it there.
- Bonnie B.

This past Friday someone came out to provide us with an estimate on several different things. I was told we would have the estimate by Monday because we were asking for a quote on several different things. This was understandable considering we are planning to do a lot of upgrades to a house we just purchased. It is now Thursday the following week and I have yet to get an estimate in my inbox. I called three times today and hours later someone finally returned my phone call. I explained the situation to the woman on the phone and she said she would make sure I had an estimate in my inbox today. She took my email just to make sure it wasn't sent to an incorrect email. She repeated it back and it was correct. I fully expected to have an estimate in my inbox by now and sadly that is not the case. If you are a customer that wants to get quotes for giggles and not get any actual work done this is the provider for you! However, if you are actually looking to fix things in your home and require a warm body in your home to complete this work...this is not the provider you're looking for.
- Kate F.

Egg Harbor Electricians Provider Name Locked
arrived on time and after discussing the problem, he quickly started to determine what was causing the loss of power. He checked the main pump and determined it was working properly. He then checked the booster pump for the pool sweep and determined it was causing the loss of power. He explained that was as far as he could go. Had the problem been with the control panel, he would have been able to fix that, but because it was in the pump, I had to work with the manufacturer or installer. What I did like about
Egg Harbor Electricians Provider Name Locked
was he took the time to explain how the system worked with the timing and power distribution between the two pumps. This reinforced my knowledge of how I thought the system worked.
Egg Harbor Electricians Provider Name Locked
also took the time to explain what I would need to do if I wanted to remove the defective pump to take it in for service or replacement. This made it easy for me to decide to remove the defective pump myself.
- John I.

Electricians in Egg Harbor, WI

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A to Z Handyman

6943 248th Ave

Advanced Auto Repair Wausau

2119 Grand Ave

Alexander Technical Resources

1263 Glenwood Ave. SE

All Energy Solar

1642 Carroll Ave

All Energy Solar

121 Orange St

AP Electric & Generators LLC

8401 102nd Street
Pleasant Prairie

Arch Electric Inc


B&B Residential Electric LLC

210 N East Street



Daves Handyman Services

17915 S. Lake Rd.

DC Electric

23520 82nd Pl

Derkson Home Remodeling

1390 Mulberry Lane

Dunn Lumber

826 N St
Lake Geneva


5660 Noble St Gratiot, WI 53541

Eisch Electric Inc.

PO Box 621

Electronic Innovations

4403 Stewart Ave

Elite Electrical Contractors LLC

34231 High Dr
East Troy

Home Style Contractors LLC

E3757A US Hwy
Spring Green

Hull Audio Video

W12786 Sunny Knoll Rd.

J & B Electric

M307 County Road E

J. D. Construction G.C.

300 e mount morris ave.

JM Electric LLC

4565 Schroeder Ln

Moore Power Electrical

2067 200th Ave

PHE Contractors, Inc.

614 N. High

Pinnow Electric LLC

1886 Midway Rd
Mineral Point

Property Image LLC

967 Jonathon Dr

Sunrise Builders

28501 116th St.

Tater's Total Home Improvement

N5486 State Highway 17




12637 S 265 W Suite 100

Woodland Painting Company

7411-95th Ave

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