Edgerton Mold Remediators

in Edgerton, WI

38
Mold Remediators are
in Edgerton

9
Mold Remediators in Edgerton
are top rated

N
Rated by
Michaela M.
"
was very professional and honest. He examined areas of concern and answered all my questions. He even cleaned the top of AC ducts where I couldn't reach." Fortunately I didn't need any mold remediation.
A
Rated by
Francis T.
"
's two teams, both the mold remediation and carpentry crews, were absolutely excellent. We knew that there were so many issues to resolve with the crawl" space, and
not only fixed the symptoms but also most of the causes of the mold. (Absolute Waterproofing is handling the drainage problems.) In a nutshell,
's team needed to
vacuum the entire crawl (from subfloor to joists); remove ruined
insulation; sister several compromised floor joists; repair sill plates; replace rim joists; install non-existent foundation vents; and install a
deck landing. Even more work than the above was performed, but the gist is that we had a LOT of repairs to be made and we were very stressed about choosing someone to do all of it. Thank goodness we chose well! We will also be using
's crew(s) to renovate and remodel our bathrooms at some point in the future. His work really is that good.
N
Rated by
sherrie A.
"
contacted us immediately to set up an appointment after we purchased the Mold Testing on Angie's List. He showed up (even early) and was extremely thorough," knowledgeable and professional. We received our quote - which was very detailed and now are pursuing what we want to do going forward.
quote was broken out into 3 separate jobs
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N
"
was very professional and honest. He examined areas of concern and answered all my questions. He even cleaned the top of AC ducts where" I couldn't reach. Fortunately I didn't need any mold remediation.

-Michaela M.

A
"
's two teams, both the mold remediation and carpentry crews, were absolutely excellent. We knew that there were so many issues to resolve" with the crawl space, and
not only fixed the symptoms but also most of the causes of the mold. (Absolute Waterproofing is handling the drainage problems.) In a nutshell,
's team needed to
vacuum the entire crawl (from subfloor to joists); remove ruined
insulation; sister several compromised floor joists; repair sill plates; replace rim joists; install non-existent foundation vents; and install a
deck landing. Even more work than the above was performed, but the gist is that we had a LOT of repairs to be made and we were very stressed about choosing someone to do all of it. Thank goodness we chose well! We will also be using
's crew(s) to renovate and remodel our bathrooms at some point in the future. His work really is that good.

-Francis T.

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Local Articles in Edgerton

removing black mold

Mold

Nothing strikes fear like the sight of black mold. Learn about household mold, mold symptoms, how to test for mold and the best methods for mold removal.

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Contractors say homeowners with this trait are the most satisfied with home improvement projects.

Many homes in humid climates are susceptible to mold growth on furniture, clothing and even structural walls if there is inadequate ventilation, says Belk. (Photo courtesy of Gold Coast Flood Restorations)
Mold Testing & Remediation

Long-term exposure to certain types of toxic molds can be catastrophic. One highly rated provider shares four easy tips to prevent mold from invading your home.

Most molds, when allowed to grow in abundance, are visibly seen in certain colors, says Cascone. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Teresa K. of Beachwood, Ohio)
Mold Testing & Remediation

Mold may be present in your home and affecting your life even if no actual mold is visible. Here are four things that may indicate you need mold remediation.

"While it’s entirely possible that you do have mold in your air ducts, such claims are also a common scare tactic used by some less-than-scrupulous air duct cleaning companies," Angie Hicks says.
Mold Testing & Remediation, Air Duct Cleaning

Do you have mold in your air ducts? Learn how to identify mold and remediate it, along with what you should expect to pay. Angie Hicks provides the answers.

Angie's Answers

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Mold in a basement is a common problem. My company helps people with this every day. Some of the answers you received were helpful but not all the information is correct. First, you need to eliminate the two main ingrediants that mold needs to survive. The first one is water intrusion. This is a must. I am assuming you have no water intrusion as you make no mention. The second componant that needs to be eliminated is moisture. Moisture is also humidity. Basements need to be kept airtight in the summer months. Some folks have posted that you need air flow in your basement. Nothing could be furthur from the truth. When you open any windows for example, not one micron of air goes out of the basement, Warm humid air is sucked into the basement. Houses suck air into the basement and it meets the cool surfaces and skyrockets humidity. The windows must be kept closed and a dehumidification device installed to ensure humidity stays below 60% humidity. The dehumidifier should be energy star rated and purchasing a seperate humidity guage is a must to monitor the unit's progress. We like to keep our customer's basements at 50% humidity. This eliminates the smell that is active mold spore growth. Once the water and humidity is brought under control. Remove the organic materials that have mold on them. Walls, sheetrock and studs that have been affected. Follow the advice of previous posts as you must ensure that you do not affect the rest of the home. Once removed, install new walls using as much inorganic material as possible. We also install vapor barrier over the walls and seal the floors to stopwater vapor transmission into the basement. Poly plastic is not a acceptable vapor barrier. It is not "zero-perm" and will still allow moisture transmission. It will also crack and break into pieces over the years. A PVC liner rated "zero-perm" is the correct product in this application. Depending how large the basement is and if it is sectioned off will determine the dehumidifier strength. We use the Santa Fe line of dehidifiers as they are super energy efficiant and work like a dehumidifier on steriods. I hope this helps and I wish you the best in Basement Health!
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Is the cabin conditioned year round or at all?

 

Are there any grading or moisture issues that are allowing bulk moisture into the crawl?

 

Conditioning the crawl is usually the best answer but if it is sporadic use and/or makes better sense to leave as a vented space, you need to do the following for optimum performance:

 

- Install a vapor barrier across the floor.  Seal all piers and penetrations as well as seal to the stem wall.

- Insulate the underside of the floor and ideally thermally break the floor joists from the earth.

- This is best accomplished by covering the floor joist with a rigid foam and sealing all the seams.

 

 

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When you say vented to the roof, do you mean into the attic UNDER the roof, or through the roof with a duct up through a roof jack into a roof hood ? Hopefully the latter, otherwise you have the likely source of the problem.

You are clearly getting moisture in this area still, so more insulation will not help and may hurt - insulation does not stop moisture but does trap it, particularly if you add enough tht the freezing front moves well down into the insulation, so vapor coming up from the house freezes in the insulation (making it wet when it thaws) rather than venting into the attic and evaporating from there.

You need an expert check on the bathroom area - that the fan unit and any light fixtures are tighly sealed to the vapor barrier. Usually they are installed with about a 1/4-1/2 inch void all around for ease of installation, and not sealed at all, so moist bathroom air vents around themm into the attic.

Then the fan unit needs checking for openings - many have openings in the plastic or metal case from manufacturing that are not sealed but should be. Do NOT use any type of unit that, because of big lights or heat lamp, says it has to be vented and cannot be sealed in, because moist air goes right up through it.

Then the duct from the fan up through the roof needs checking for leaks (and should be insulated, at least if your attic goes below freezing ever), and should have a roof jack where it penetrates the attic - a rubber seal in a metal plate that fits tightly around the duct, so the air blown into the vent hood on the roof cannot circulate back down into the attic. Most installers just cut about a 1 foot opening in the roof (especially if they can install the duct that way without having to crawl around in itchy attic insulation), run the duct up through it into the roof hood, and walk away. That leaves that big opening in the roof sheathing for the wet air and condensation in the hood to corculate right back down into the attic. Some installers (like my house whenn I first bought it) really take the easy route and don't even connect the duct to the hood - they just terminate it a foot or so below the sheathing so ALL the moist air goes into the attic.

I would also check the kitchen and any other bathroom fans for the same leak sources or improper installation, and make sure all vent pipes are intact to above the roof, and that there are no furnace or HVAC ducts disconnected or damaged that could be adding moisture.

Also look around all roof penetrations for ducts and pipes for staining on the underside of the sheathing, which would be indicative of roof hood or jack leaks that should be repaired. (Hopefully, with a new roof you would not have any).

The area most affected should have the insulation moved away and checked to see if the vapor barrier has holes or tears, openings around pipes, ducts, light boxes or wiring, or was maybe totally torn out by some prior workman. If your vapor barrier is not effective, moist household air will move into the attic almost year around, but especially in cold weather, carrying moisture into the attic, where it will condense and cause mold.

Also - if you have a fireplace chase (wood boxout around metal chimney) in that area, it may connect to the house in the firebox area and be open to the attic (which is a real fire spread hazard but for some reason is not contrary to code), letting household air flow by that route.

The mold should be brushed and vacuumed away, then treated - there are commercial sprays that are fungicides that commercial mold and mildew removal contractors have, a sprayed chlorine bleach and borax solution has also been shown to work but you would have to have an air supplied respirator and chemical suit to work with that, which only professional remediation contractors have. Do NOT paint the area - especially the underside of the roof sheathing and trusses. They needs to be able to breathe, not have any moisture from above locked in.

Stains in the attic (assuming this is an unoccupied area) can be bleached, and then if you want the evidence to go away and make it easier to tell if there is new staining or mold, sanded to remove the worst of them.

Stains on areas visible from the outside like walls and rafters can be treated with Chlorine bleach (beware of dripping on good finishes below), painted with Kilz or similar anti-fungal primer, then painted. Stains on the underside of the sheathing visible in the soffit area can be bleached and then when dry, sanded away.

Ventilation is essential, but without removing the source of most the moisture you will not win this war no matter how many times you battle it.

While I would guess the fans and vents are the problem, is there anything different about the attic ventilation to this area versus the other parts of the roof - soffit covers, blocked eave openings, insulation-clogged bug screening or soffit cover openings, lack of air chutes or eave baffles, insulation pushed up against eave opening or up against roof, horizontal blocking that prevents or obstructs airflow, no ridge vent above it, etc ?

If you are not able to find an obvious source of the moisture, I woud consider getting a thermal IR scan of the attic. For typically about $200-300 an energy conservation expert with thermal scanner can scan the attic (might have to be done at night or VERY early morning if done in summertime, to accentuate the temp difference between house air and attic air, unless you have AC in which case turning the AC down low and blower on full can work by pushing cold air rather than hot up through any gaps or voids. If you have that done, check on price to add in the rest of the house too - probably not more than about $100 more, and can show you where your air leaks and poor insulation air. You should try to get one who can provide the entire scan to you on CD or DVD, so you can review it in the future. Here is a link to some images so you know what I am talking about -

http://www.google.com/images?client=safari&rls=en&q=house+IR+scan&oe=UTF-8&hl=en&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&ei=rhfRUci4F-TbigLghIHIAg&ved=0CDcQsAQ

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Call in the professionals.

There is no sense addressing the mold issue until you resolve the basement leaks.

High ground water that is seeping into your basement is going to lead to long term, serious damage to your foundation and basement walls.  Any mold you remove will just keep coming back.  The first question is the age of the home and whether or not you have working perimeter drain tile installed.  If you home is pretty old (30+ years) it is possible you do not have a drainiage system, or the system is clogged / deteriorated beyond function.  For a newer home, perimeter drain tile was a requirement, but doesn't mean it was installed properly.

I recommend you hire a licensed architect to review your house's construction, the site and look for indications that a drainage system is in place and functioning.  They should be able to find out where the drain comes out, and to check it (after a rain or by doing a water test) to see if it is working.  If it is working, it is possible your system is undersized or only failing in a specific area.  It is also possible a second, lower water table exists that is below your current drain system.  A site change, to change the current flow of ground water or above ground water may resolve your issue as well.  Something as simple as a new drainage ditch, retention pond or higher grades around your building may resolve your issue.

Working with a professional will prevent you from worrying about a 'draingage expert' recommending a high cost repair when another option may be available.

Some drainage people will propose installing a new perimiter drain inside your basement walls.  This system gets the water that gets through the walls and under the floor, and carries it back out.  This is a last ditch idea.  The best method, to solve the issue for good, is to dig back down to your footers, repair the waterproofing on the wall, then place drainage board over it (this protects the waterproofing while allowing moisture a travel path to your drain tile).  Then place gravel fill with geo-fabric over it, then backfill.  Now, no matter how much water you have in your ground, it will be directed away from your basement.

A sump pump in the basement to handle flooding or low water tables below your basement slab will augment this system.

Once you have the moisture issue resolved, then worry about stopping mold.  In the interim, any materials that are growing mold need to be removed (use protective measures).  Make sure you run a dehumidifier at all times and keep air moving by turning on the basement hvac vents or putting some fans in the area.

Working with a licensed architect will help ensure you pinpoint the exact problem, and have a knowledgable person to discuss the options with before doing any costly work.  The architect will also be able to assist with finding contractors and overseeing that the work is installed correctly (It is worthless to redo the drainage if any one area is not done correctly).  Good luck.

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Mold Removal reviews in Edgerton

A

Rating
We were very happy with
Edgerton Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
. Set up an appointment online on a Sunday and was called promptly on Monday.
Edgerton Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
came out to the house and tested out air and did an inspection of crawl space and attics. We were lucky to not have a mold issue! If we ever have any issues again, we'll call
Edgerton Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
for sure.
- Stephanie M.
A

Rating
It went extremely well.
Edgerton Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
was professional and explained to my wife and me how the problem occurred and why it wouldn't going forward. He also made us feel better about the floor we had chose and that we did not need to worry about permanent water damage.
I will be recommending
Edgerton Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
to all my friends and will be reaching out to
Edgerton Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
in the future if I have any additional problems.
This was one of the best experiences I have ever had with a contractor. I could not believe how fast he resolved our problem!
- DontKick M.
A

Rating
Edgerton Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
and his crew were great! They were professional, prompt, and detailed. I would definitely recommend
Edgerton Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
Service to friends and family.
- Patrick C.
A

Rating
It was a pleasure working with
Edgerton Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
Mulieri from MoldGone. He was responsive and flexible with scheduling my appointment, and kept me updated on the day of service as to his arrival time. Although he arrived later than he expected due to a previous job running overtime, I was aware of it because of his communication.

The inspection was thorough and his explanations were honest and helpful. He made suggestions to me that could reduce the possibility of mold spores growing in the room of concern.
Edgerton Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
was very professional and knowledgeable, and if I need further testing or remediation I will certainly call him and use his company to do the work.
- Charlie K.
A

Rating
When buying the house 4 years ago, we knew we needed new attic insultation, but we did not realize what a difference it would make. We can already tell how much warmer the house is staying.
Edgerton Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
was always quick to respond. His team,
Edgerton Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
,
Edgerton Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
, Mulu, and
Edgerton Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
, did a good job, and we were very appreciative of their respect for our home -- extra care taken as they came in and out of the home often. Thank you.

- Stephen F.
A

Rating
It was easy to perform test but took a really long time to get results. Maybe it got lost in the mail but it took a good 2 weeks from start to finish. The results were good although I wasnt really sure what they meant. I was looking for more of a good good or bad. They broke down all the different types that were present and basically recommended to get air quality test if needed. Overall it was fine for the cost.




- Allison E.
A

Rating
I had a house that I was renting out to a family for the past 8 years. They decided to move out, but after they were gone the house sat unoccupied for a couple months in anticipation for a renovation. When I first entered the home i realized it was riddled with mold. Pretty much the whole first floor and basement were infected with mold.
Edgerton Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
quoted me the best price by a margin of almost 3 grand so they were the no brainer choice. The job took them an entire day, but the next day the place looked great. I had a home inspector come in and test the air for mold a week later. Place was mold free and I was a very happy customer. Use
Edgerton Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
if you have mold in your home, you wont be disappointed.
- David A.

All Mold Remediators in Edgerton, WI

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A & A Environmental

817 Mayfair Ave
Madison

A&J Specialty Services, Inc. DKI

816 Burton Blvd
De Forest

A+ Environmental Inc

22 North 3rd St
Fort Atkinson

Advanced Restoration DKI

PO Box 8751
Madison

Advanced Restoration DKI

PO Box 8751
Madison

AirMD

7700 Congress Ave

Allensbc.com

1077 Canary Ave

Anderson Home Inspection LLC

5712 W Peninsula Road
Waterford

ARC Contracting of Wisconsin Inc

2300 Holly Road
Neenah

Certi-Dry

2401 Daniels St
Madison

Chem-Dry of Madison

6330 Copps Ave
Madison

CRITERION HOME INSPECTORS LLC

N59W23769 Clover Dr
Sussex

Indoor Environmental Testing Inc

1213 N Sherman Ave
Madison

JP Improvements LLC

312 Prospect Rd
Waunakee

JSM Consulting

8383 Greenway Blvd
Middleton

Michael J Till Associates

915 Michigan Street
Sturgeon Bay

MICROLAB NORTHWEST

7609 140Th Pl NE

Moldlab

2501 Mayes road suite #110

R.G. Environmental inc

P.O. box 86
Deerfield

ROBINSON BROTHERS ENVIROMENTAL INC

220 RAEMISCH RD
Waunakee

Seagull Enterprises

2410 Plymouth Ave
Janesville

TNT Green Demolition and Excavating

5861 Holscher Road
Mcfarland

Tri State Basement Repair

27188 US Hwy 14
Richland Center

URBAN REMODELING

4603 MONONA DR
Madison

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