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Over 827 reviews for
Edgerton Mold Removal Experts from people just like you.

A
"I needed mold testing due to basement water damage.
from
was able to make an appointment for the following day." He arrived right on time, was very friendly and professional. He explained exactly what he was going to do and when I would hear back with the results. The next day (as expected) he emailed me a detailed report for my insurance company and a paid invoice. Fortunately, everything was okay; no mold problems. But, if I had needed remediation services, I definitely would have continued with
. I am very happy with the outstanding service I received.

-John P.

A
"I came home to a terrible mess and stench. My insurance company told me that mold testing was covered by my homeowners insurance policy, so I called
" and spoke with Virginia, who couldn't have been nicer. She said she would have a man on my doorstep by 2:00 P.M. At 1:45 P.M.
arrived. What a nice, intelligent, clean-cut man he was. Obviously well-educated and well-spoken, he explained the process to test all the areas where my home was flooded. He took over 100 samples, and didn't mind as I followed him around the house. He advised me not to stay in my home, because he could see mold in various places. He called my insurance agent and got him to agree that I could be moved out of my house until the repairs were made, and secured a hotel room for me.Then, he told me what things I needed to gather up and remove from the house, such as important papers, my passport, family heirlooms, etc. He helped me pack up my car. Who does that? Nobody in this day and age.
was like having a son around. Later that night,
telephoned me to say my samples had already been delivered to the lab. When the results came in, he personally delivered them to my hotel, as I didn't have a computer. After the mold remediation was completed by another company,
returned to inspect the work. He didn't approve of one tiny area, and made the company return and touch it up.
returned a third time, took more samples, and finally informed me I could breathe easy again. My house is all back to normal again, and while it was a difficult episode, I felt it was all made easier by
of
.

-Martha D.

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Local Articles in Edgerton

Mold

Nothing strikes fear like the sight of black mold. Learn about household mold, mold symptoms, how to test for mold and the best methods for mold removal.

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Mold Testing & Remediation, Air Duct Cleaning

Worried about mold in your air ducts? Learn how to test for mold and what you can expect to pay for air duct cleaning.

carpet rolls in front of a home
Water & Smoke Damage, Carpet Cleaning, Mold Testing & Remediation

Flooding, plumbing leaks can lead to harmful mold growth on and underneath your home's flooring.

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Contractors say homeowners with this trait are the most satisfied with home improvement projects.

Many homes in humid climates are susceptible to mold growth on furniture, clothing and even structural walls if there is inadequate ventilation, says Belk. (Photo courtesy of Gold Coast Flood Restorations)
Mold Testing & Remediation

Long-term exposure to certain types of toxic molds can be catastrophic. One highly rated provider shares four easy tips to prevent mold from invading your home.

Angie's Answers

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Mold in a basement is a common problem. My company helps people with this every day. Some of the answers you received were helpful but not all the information is correct. First, you need to eliminate the two main ingrediants that mold needs to survive. The first one is water intrusion. This is a must. I am assuming you have no water intrusion as you make no mention. The second componant that needs to be eliminated is moisture. Moisture is also humidity. Basements need to be kept airtight in the summer months. Some folks have posted that you need air flow in your basement. Nothing could be furthur from the truth. When you open any windows for example, not one micron of air goes out of the basement, Warm humid air is sucked into the basement. Houses suck air into the basement and it meets the cool surfaces and skyrockets humidity. The windows must be kept closed and a dehumidification device installed to ensure humidity stays below 60% humidity. The dehumidifier should be energy star rated and purchasing a seperate humidity guage is a must to monitor the unit's progress. We like to keep our customer's basements at 50% humidity. This eliminates the smell that is active mold spore growth. Once the water and humidity is brought under control. Remove the organic materials that have mold on them. Walls, sheetrock and studs that have been affected. Follow the advice of previous posts as you must ensure that you do not affect the rest of the home. Once removed, install new walls using as much inorganic material as possible. We also install vapor barrier over the walls and seal the floors to stopwater vapor transmission into the basement. Poly plastic is not a acceptable vapor barrier. It is not "zero-perm" and will still allow moisture transmission. It will also crack and break into pieces over the years. A PVC liner rated "zero-perm" is the correct product in this application. Depending how large the basement is and if it is sectioned off will determine the dehumidifier strength. We use the Santa Fe line of dehidifiers as they are super energy efficiant and work like a dehumidifier on steriods. I hope this helps and I wish you the best in Basement Health!
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Is the cabin conditioned year round or at all?

 

Are there any grading or moisture issues that are allowing bulk moisture into the crawl?

 

Conditioning the crawl is usually the best answer but if it is sporadic use and/or makes better sense to leave as a vented space, you need to do the following for optimum performance:

 

- Install a vapor barrier across the floor.  Seal all piers and penetrations as well as seal to the stem wall.

- Insulate the underside of the floor and ideally thermally break the floor joists from the earth.

- This is best accomplished by covering the floor joist with a rigid foam and sealing all the seams.

 

 

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When you say vented to the roof, do you mean into the attic UNDER the roof, or through the roof with a duct up through a roof jack into a roof hood ? Hopefully the latter, otherwise you have the likely source of the problem.

You are clearly getting moisture in this area still, so more insulation will not help and may hurt - insulation does not stop moisture but does trap it, particularly if you add enough tht the freezing front moves well down into the insulation, so vapor coming up from the house freezes in the insulation (making it wet when it thaws) rather than venting into the attic and evaporating from there.

You need an expert check on the bathroom area - that the fan unit and any light fixtures are tighly sealed to the vapor barrier. Usually they are installed with about a 1/4-1/2 inch void all around for ease of installation, and not sealed at all, so moist bathroom air vents around themm into the attic.

Then the fan unit needs checking for openings - many have openings in the plastic or metal case from manufacturing that are not sealed but should be. Do NOT use any type of unit that, because of big lights or heat lamp, says it has to be vented and cannot be sealed in, because moist air goes right up through it.

Then the duct from the fan up through the roof needs checking for leaks (and should be insulated, at least if your attic goes below freezing ever), and should have a roof jack where it penetrates the attic - a rubber seal in a metal plate that fits tightly around the duct, so the air blown into the vent hood on the roof cannot circulate back down into the attic. Most installers just cut about a 1 foot opening in the roof (especially if they can install the duct that way without having to crawl around in itchy attic insulation), run the duct up through it into the roof hood, and walk away. That leaves that big opening in the roof sheathing for the wet air and condensation in the hood to corculate right back down into the attic. Some installers (like my house whenn I first bought it) really take the easy route and don't even connect the duct to the hood - they just terminate it a foot or so below the sheathing so ALL the moist air goes into the attic.

I would also check the kitchen and any other bathroom fans for the same leak sources or improper installation, and make sure all vent pipes are intact to above the roof, and that there are no furnace or HVAC ducts disconnected or damaged that could be adding moisture.

Also look around all roof penetrations for ducts and pipes for staining on the underside of the sheathing, which would be indicative of roof hood or jack leaks that should be repaired. (Hopefully, with a new roof you would not have any).

The area most affected should have the insulation moved away and checked to see if the vapor barrier has holes or tears, openings around pipes, ducts, light boxes or wiring, or was maybe totally torn out by some prior workman. If your vapor barrier is not effective, moist household air will move into the attic almost year around, but especially in cold weather, carrying moisture into the attic, where it will condense and cause mold.

Also - if you have a fireplace chase (wood boxout around metal chimney) in that area, it may connect to the house in the firebox area and be open to the attic (which is a real fire spread hazard but for some reason is not contrary to code), letting household air flow by that route.

The mold should be brushed and vacuumed away, then treated - there are commercial sprays that are fungicides that commercial mold and mildew removal contractors have, a sprayed chlorine bleach and borax solution has also been shown to work but you would have to have an air supplied respirator and chemical suit to work with that, which only professional remediation contractors have. Do NOT paint the area - especially the underside of the roof sheathing and trusses. They needs to be able to breathe, not have any moisture from above locked in.

Stains in the attic (assuming this is an unoccupied area) can be bleached, and then if you want the evidence to go away and make it easier to tell if there is new staining or mold, sanded to remove the worst of them.

Stains on areas visible from the outside like walls and rafters can be treated with Chlorine bleach (beware of dripping on good finishes below), painted with Kilz or similar anti-fungal primer, then painted. Stains on the underside of the sheathing visible in the soffit area can be bleached and then when dry, sanded away.

Ventilation is essential, but without removing the source of most the moisture you will not win this war no matter how many times you battle it.

While I would guess the fans and vents are the problem, is there anything different about the attic ventilation to this area versus the other parts of the roof - soffit covers, blocked eave openings, insulation-clogged bug screening or soffit cover openings, lack of air chutes or eave baffles, insulation pushed up against eave opening or up against roof, horizontal blocking that prevents or obstructs airflow, no ridge vent above it, etc ?

If you are not able to find an obvious source of the moisture, I woud consider getting a thermal IR scan of the attic. For typically about $200-300 an energy conservation expert with thermal scanner can scan the attic (might have to be done at night or VERY early morning if done in summertime, to accentuate the temp difference between house air and attic air, unless you have AC in which case turning the AC down low and blower on full can work by pushing cold air rather than hot up through any gaps or voids. If you have that done, check on price to add in the rest of the house too - probably not more than about $100 more, and can show you where your air leaks and poor insulation air. You should try to get one who can provide the entire scan to you on CD or DVD, so you can review it in the future. Here is a link to some images so you know what I am talking about -

http://www.google.com/images?client=safari&rls=en&q=house+IR+scan&oe=UTF-8&hl=en&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&ei=rhfRUci4F-TbigLghIHIAg&ved=0CDcQsAQ

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Call in the professionals.

There is no sense addressing the mold issue until you resolve the basement leaks.

High ground water that is seeping into your basement is going to lead to long term, serious damage to your foundation and basement walls.  Any mold you remove will just keep coming back.  The first question is the age of the home and whether or not you have working perimeter drain tile installed.  If you home is pretty old (30+ years) it is possible you do not have a drainiage system, or the system is clogged / deteriorated beyond function.  For a newer home, perimeter drain tile was a requirement, but doesn't mean it was installed properly.

I recommend you hire a licensed architect to review your house's construction, the site and look for indications that a drainage system is in place and functioning.  They should be able to find out where the drain comes out, and to check it (after a rain or by doing a water test) to see if it is working.  If it is working, it is possible your system is undersized or only failing in a specific area.  It is also possible a second, lower water table exists that is below your current drain system.  A site change, to change the current flow of ground water or above ground water may resolve your issue as well.  Something as simple as a new drainage ditch, retention pond or higher grades around your building may resolve your issue.

Working with a professional will prevent you from worrying about a 'draingage expert' recommending a high cost repair when another option may be available.

Some drainage people will propose installing a new perimiter drain inside your basement walls.  This system gets the water that gets through the walls and under the floor, and carries it back out.  This is a last ditch idea.  The best method, to solve the issue for good, is to dig back down to your footers, repair the waterproofing on the wall, then place drainage board over it (this protects the waterproofing while allowing moisture a travel path to your drain tile).  Then place gravel fill with geo-fabric over it, then backfill.  Now, no matter how much water you have in your ground, it will be directed away from your basement.

A sump pump in the basement to handle flooding or low water tables below your basement slab will augment this system.

Once you have the moisture issue resolved, then worry about stopping mold.  In the interim, any materials that are growing mold need to be removed (use protective measures).  Make sure you run a dehumidifier at all times and keep air moving by turning on the basement hvac vents or putting some fans in the area.

Working with a licensed architect will help ensure you pinpoint the exact problem, and have a knowledgable person to discuss the options with before doing any costly work.  The architect will also be able to assist with finding contractors and overseeing that the work is installed correctly (It is worthless to redo the drainage if any one area is not done correctly).  Good luck.

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Mold Removal reviews in Edgerton

A

Rating
We were concerned that our house might have high levels of mold in it.
Edgerton Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
came out and did a visual inspection and pulled an air test for us. They got the results back to us in 48 hours. They showed us with the test that we didn't have any high levels of mold. Problem solved!
- Ralph M.
A

Rating
Edgerton Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
was AMAZING! Yes it's a little pricey but it's your health. We were in the process of purchasing a home and something wasn't right. I immediately had breathing problems when entering the home and attributed it to cat dander. We went ahead with the process not thinking it was be a big deal to remediate. I am so beyond thankful that in addition to the home inspection we had the environmental inspection.
Edgerton Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
showed us where he felt there are areas of concerns and why. He was truly a modern day "inspector gadget" with all the tools and state of the art equipment he used. He is really an expert in the field and very passionate about what he does. We agreed to have lab cultures and air quality samples analyzed throughout the house. Within a week (some of the lab tests took longer) we had a full and comprehensive report. We terminated the contract as the mold situation was so extreme and not something we wanted to
Edgerton Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
with our health. Because once you start opening the walls, who knows how much mold and how much you are looking at. We are so thankful that
Edgerton Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
literally saved us from this Moldy house. You wouldn't buy strawberries with mold and it's the same thing with a house. We will be using
Edgerton Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
again for the next time.
- Kimberly F.
A

Rating
Although we ended up not using him, he did come out and gave wonderful inspection. He also told us what to have another company come out and check for just incase we did not use him. Even though we didn't use him at that time, I would certainly use him if I needed the services in the future.
- Cathryn S.
A

Rating
They were very professional and honest. I was relieved that he was very thorough and inspected some very hard to reach areas. He gave me good news and I was relieved that he was ethical and knowledgeable. He told me ways to avoid mold and sent me all the information via email as well as at the appointment. I would highly recommend them to anyone!
- Keisha G.
A

Rating
I woke up to find a ton of water in my basement and I jumped online, found this company and they came out within 45 minutes! I wasn't expecting to hear that someone could come out in the middle of the night! The guys were awesome and very professional! My kids were asleep and they didn't even wake them up! I would highly recommend
Edgerton Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
to anyone! Kudos to
Edgerton Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
and
Edgerton Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
(the owner)! Thank you for coming to my aid!
- Nikki R.
A

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They came out to our home at 2am. No other companies that we called answered their phones that late. They did a great job, worked with our insurance company!
- joe H.
A

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It was great! They explained the entire process, answered any questions along the way, and were very friendly and very professional. Each of the areas they worked on were contained and vented outdoors or through the remediation filter, so we felt safe during the process. The entire removal and cleanup was done in 3 days. And best of all, the smell of mold (plus the actual mold) is gone! Thanks again for doing such a great job. I would totally recommend their service.
- Becky S.
A

Rating
Apex was very professional and thorough. After the inspection I received an extremely detailed report on the mold issue along with an estimate for remediation. Even though we were somewhat delayed in getting the remediation done (it was a building leak and we were waiting for an insurance settlement) they stuck to the quoted price.
Edgerton Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
was very polite and helpful and talked me through everything, in addition to working with our schedule. They did a great job treating the problem and getting rid of all the contaminated material. We noticed a difference in our sinuses right away!
I would definitely recommend Apex and hire them again if need be (though I hope I won't have to).
- Brian H.

Mold Removal Experts in Edgerton, WI

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A&J Specialty Services, Inc. DKI

816 Burton Blvd
De Forest

A+ Environmental Inc

22 North 3rd St
Fort Atkinson

Advanced Restoration DKI

PO Box 8751
Madison

Advanced Restoration DKI

PO Box 8751
Madison

AirMD

7700 Congress Ave

Allensbc.com

1077 Canary Ave

Anderson Home Inspection LLC

5712 W Peninsula Road
Waterford

Certi-Dry

2401 Daniels St
Madison

Chem-Dry of Madison

6330 Copps Ave
Madison

CRITERION HOME INSPECTORS LLC

N59W23769 Clover Dr
Sussex

Diversified Contracting LLC

PO Box 314
Wisconsin Dells

FGS The Restoration Company

2040 S. Park St.
Madison

Hometown Plumbing LLC

3610 Lexington Ave
Madison

Indoor Environmental Testing Inc

1213 N Sherman Ave
Madison

JP Improvements LLC

312 Prospect Rd
Waunakee

Michael J Till Associates

915 Michigan St
Sturgeon Bay

MICROLAB NORTHWEST

7609 140Th Pl NE

R.G. Environmental inc

P.O. box 86
Deerfield

ROBINSON BROTHERS ENVIROMENTAL INC

220 RAEMISCH RD
Waunakee

Rolyn Companies, Inc.

5706 Frederick Ave

Seagull Enterprises

700 w south st
Stoughton

TNT Green Demolition and Excavating

5861 Holscher Road
Mcfarland

Tri State Basement Repair

27188 US Hwy 14
Richland Center

URBAN REMODELING

4603 MONONA DR
Madison

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