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"SUMMARY: We’ve remodeled four houses and hired 30+ contractors and have never had such a negative experience with a contractor/company. Nick
" the president of AIS did not do what we hired him to do which was to make a room useable. He also did not honor the warranty/guarantee he promised us when we interviewed him. We are out a lot of money and he has abandoned the job. Nick also did not use all the materials he charged us for in our contract. We found out later than the materials he used are not even up to code. The final let-down was at our final meeting where he told us that he pay’s his customer’s $10 to write a good review on Angie’s List. He told us if we agreed to take down our original bad review we wrote he would give us a check for $10. I use Angie’s List because of the faith I put in the reviews. When I found out he was paying for them I was shocked. DETAILS OF WHAT HAPPENED: We hired AIS to insulate a bonus room on the top floor of our home, during the interview process we discussed with Nick many times what we should expect. We also sent emails asking questions about whether we should do this. Nick emphatically said yes and that he could make the room comfortable. He told us to expect a 12-15 degree difference in the room. He said he did rooms like ours all time and this would be a standard job for him. He also said he guaranteed his work. We hired him because of these promises and his reviews on Angie’s List. Nick did the job on June 11, 2015. There was no temperature change whatsoever. The temperature in the room the day after he did the work was 94 degrees. All summer the temperature in the room remained in the 90s. Nick came back 5-6 times to fix his work, many were things we pointed out were wrong. For example, air was coming through ceiling lights that should have been fixed the first time, there was a one inch gap between a storage door and the floor that was like an open window letting heat in, etc. Every time he came he said these things should have been fixed when the job was first done. Although we were frustrated by his mistakes we didn’t want Nick to abandon the job so we remained patient and didn’t let him know how frustrated we were by his mistakes. One of the things that really concerned us was that in his invoice he charged us for eight electrical covers for the recessed lights. He told me after I paid him that he used electrical tape instead of covers. We found out that over time this can be a fire hazard We discussed with Nick for two months that the room was still warm. He told us every time that he was completely baffled by this and that he was talking to insulation experts about the problem but that he wouldn’t give up. We trusted he would do that but on August 4th he abruptly told us the problem was our HVAC unit and no longer his responsibility. After explaining why we didn’t think this was possible because the room is served by eight registers that operate at full air flow (Nick himself has confirmed there are no leaks in the ductwork.) Nick accused us of not considering the HVAC unit as a problem. So we did our own research on the unit. We contacted a Trane contractor who told us given the age and size of the unit it is more than capable of cooling the room. Especially if the room is properly insulated to the standards Nick says it is. Our Trane contact also said that given that the room below this room is at a comfortable 77 degrees during the summer there should not be an 18 degree discrepancy. This can only be due to a poor insulation job. After we confirmed this could not be the problem Nick decided to take a different approach to justify his work. He said that he had in fact made a 10-15degree temperature difference from the year before and since we didn’t have temperature records from the summer before we couldn’t prove this wasn’t true. This shocked us. When I told him I had used the room the previous summer and there’s no way I would have sat in a room that was 110-115 degrees he just smiled and stated that I couldn’t prove what the temperature was and therefore he wasn’t liable. When Nick was still trying to fix his work, he told us time and time again that he didn’t understand why there were problems because everything was done to industry standards but every time he came out it was to fix something he had done wrong before or should have done the first time. We think there is something that was done incorrectly when he did the initial install but we can’t prove it because we aren’t insulation experts. At one point Nick said if I could show him pictures of what he did wrong he would honor his guarantee. That is unfair. How can we review his work? Nick told us several times that this room was the biggest challenge he's encountered. That may be but we hired him as the 'expert'. Nick also said on several occasions that our satisfaction was very important to him. We thought that meant he would find a solution rather than try really hard but abandon the job if it didn’t work out. We are stuck with a hot room that we've paid AIS a great deal to fix. The final insult is that after two Angie’s List employees called Nick and explained to him the benefits of resolving this Nick contacted us and said he wanted to meet. I told him this was something we wanted to resolve via email given that my husband works far from our house and I work too. He insisted we meet at the house and said that he wanted to resolve this and the meeting would end with him paying us a check. My husband and I took time off work to meet with him. After talking to him for an hour Nick kept trying to get us to say we were satisfied with the work he did, not the results but with what he did. We told him we couldn’t say that because he made a lot of mistakes that he admitted to during the job. What was his final offer? $10 to remove the original bad review we wrote on Angie’s List. He went on to say he offers every customer $10 if they write a good review on Angie’s List. We immediately told Nick the meeting was over and he told us, ‘excellent’. In the end we think he enjoyed wasting our time. Completely disappointing experience. <br clear="all">


"This was the easiest time I've had getting a new roof because of a hail storm. In 1998 I got a new roof and again in 2008. It took over 6 months those first" two times to finally get the roof re-roofed and for the insurance company to pay their end.
had me done in less than 60 days. All of the minor repairs were completed also. I took advantage of the warranties he offered also. The crew was awesome. We had a huge bee hive on the back of our house that they took care of at no extra charge. We didn't find any nails or debris in our yard. I kept
's card because I can tell he will still be doing this no matter how long it takes me to need a new roof again. He does it right. I will definitely be using him again in the future and I would recommend him to anyone.

-Matt W.

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Local Articles in Burlington

Avoid Ice Dams With Proper Attic Insulation

An ice dam can cause serious problems to your roof without proper insulation.

By properly insulating your attic you can keep warm air from escaping and save money on your energy bills. (Photo courtesy of Vinay S. of North Brunswick, New Jersey)

Hot air rises … but good insulation can keep your energy costs from doing the same thing.

Better air quality, quieter living spaces, comfort and better health are all reasons to reconsider your insulation choices. (Photo courtesy of Angie&#039;s List member Roseanne J. of Seattle)

Not just for new construction, learn how foam insulation can be placed inside existing walls to make your home more comfortable.

While traditional fiberglass insulation is affordable and efficient, injection foam insulation can offer even more benefits. (Photo by Summer Galyan)

Insulation isn't sexy, but it can keep you cool at night.

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Contractors say homeowners with this trait are the most satisfied with home improvement projects.

Angie's Answers


If you go the Better Business Bureau website you can see that the company has only had two complaints in the last 18 months and that they have both been resolved.  The company has an A+ rating.  This is not something you can buy.


There are genuine reviews on many 3rd party online review sites including AngiesList and the Better Business Bureau.  Simply do a Google search for "Smart Energy Today Reviews".


Sol Blanket Insulation acts as a radiant barrier, insulation and a vapor barrier.  It is not intended to replace traditional insulation but in fact compliments it and adds to it's ability to keep cool/hot air (depending on the season) in the home when the envelope of the home is properly sealed.  


Every attic is different and there are many other components that must be considered.  You mentioned an attic fan as well.  The heat that is radiated away from the ceiling by the Sol-Blanket Insulation is pushed out of the attic with an attic fan.  The US Department of Energy states that radiant barriers do work and suggest they be installed by professionals.


As with any product by any company if the product is not installed properly and other factors (attic fan, caulking and sealing, etc...) are not addressed then it will not be as effective.


A couple of comments about what Jim said:

1) Regarding type of insulation, in cold winter environments: Cellulose and fiberglass are actually about comparable in R value when installed - blown in cellulose runs from 3.2-3.8 R value, fiberglass batt 2.9-4.3 R value depending on manufacturer and whether hig-density or low density, high-efficiency or standard, according to official Department of Energy publications. Measured values in attic test cases, in areas with a true winter, after 10 years showed a decrease from 3.4 (in the test case) down to 2.1 for cellulose, and 3.5 to 3.3 for fiberglass batt, due to packing or matting. In an attic environment, there WILL be condensation or frost on the insulation at some point during the year (assuming an area with true winters) and in highly insulated houses commonly for a substantial time period each winter. Fiberglass packs down slightly from that weight but mostly rebounds, cellulose packs down and mats and does not substantially recover, so over the years cellulose loses 1/3 to close to 1/2 its insulation value, fiberglass about 10%.

2) a note on radiation barriers attached to the bottom of the rafters - there are a lot of installers and homeowners making two major mistakes with this product that can cause major trouble: First, be sure to terminate it short of the eave openings. I have seen cases where it was carried all the way out to the fascia board, thereby blocking all airflow on the underside of the roof. Even carrying it all the way to the eaves along the bottom of the rafters will block off ventilation to the main attic area. You have to leave the air space between the rafters open to full airflow from the soffit/eave area ot the ridge vent. Second, do NOT run it continuous from eave to eave across the full width of the attic - leave a gap about a foot wide under the ridge vents so warm and moist air in the attic can vent through the ridge vent. Closing the ridge vent area off with the radiant barrier effectively puts a vapor barrier around the main attic area, causing retention of the moisture which WILL accumulate there, promoting mold.


Obviously this is not a timely response to the initial question. However, for those who may be reading these answers at a later time, a couple of added thoughts:

1) the radiant barrier being discussed is basically heavy-duty metal foil or metallized surface on a plastic sheet, intended to reflect RADIATED heat (infrared radiation - think heat light, or heat you can feel at a distance radiated from a fireplace), the same way a mirror reflects light. Radiated heat is how a standard oven broils and how steam and hot water baseboard heat predominately work.

2) you generally should do NOT place a radiant barrier over the insulation that lies between and over the joists in a normal attic, especially in a region where the attic temperature can frequently reach condensation temperature (below about 45-50 degrees) - it may reflect back some of the house heat that is coming up from the house, but by destroying most of the temperature gradient from the house to the attic air destroys much of the driving force that moves moisture to the attic air and subsequent venting. Between that greater heat and the fact the barrier is also a moisture barrier, that makes a perfect condition for mold and rot in your insulation and attic wood, and has become quite an issue in energy upgraded homes because of retrofits that cut off airflow outside the insulation, but do not cut off the moisture source leaking thorough from the house. The proper and ONLY place for a vapor barrier in a normal attic insulation system is on the pressurized and normal warm, humid side of the insulation zone - directly above the ceiling drywall in the top floor, fastened to the UNDERSIDE of the ceiling joists or trusses, NOT anywhere above that. Perforated barriers are supposed to reduce this tendency, but the perforation area percentage is so small that typically they still act as a vapor varrier, just not a totally effective one.

3) radiant barriers reflect radiated heat ewith up to 99% efficiency but have basically zero resistance to CONDUCTION (body to body heat transfer at points of contact - think heat transfer from your warm hand to a frozen cold drink can, or hot pavement heat transfer to the bottom of your feet) - so there needs to be an air gap between the radiant barrier and the hot item passing the heat to it, otherwise the heat will just pass through it by conduction. Therefore, applying it directly to the sheathing (above or below) or manufacturing it directly on the surface of the sheathing defeats its purpose, even though this is commonly done.

4) there is a lot of discussion, particularly in the professional design community, about attic radiant heat barrier effectiveness and problems. Because they are being installed on the bottom of the sheathing or underside of roof joists, they act as a heat trap for the energy being conducted through the roof which would normally radiate into the attic air or be transferred by CONVECTION (fluid flow heat transfer) to the attic air, and be vented through roof vents, ridge vents, gable vents, etc. By trapping that heat, they are causing the underside of the shingles and particularly the felt and sheathing to get a lot hotter than they otherside would, essentially changing it from a system where the shingle top surface might reach 120-180 F and the inside surface of the sheathing about 80-140F in the summer, to making the entire roof system equal to the outside surface temperature. This causes more rapid shingle deterioration and cracking, and makes the felt or plastic moisture barrier under the shingles brittle and subject to failure.

Also, any moisture above the radiant barrier (from roof leaks or humid air coming into the area) is prevented from evaporating by the attic airflow which would normally remove it, so it starts acting like a steamer. I have seen both wood and metal lofts and attics become a major mold farm in months because of this effect, and a couple of roofs which started sagging due to rotted sheathing within 2 years of reroofing with tightly adhered radiant barrier. Some radiant barriers are vapor-permeable to reduce the moisture issue, many are not, but few actually are effective in letting moisture freely escape.

Having seen these products in use, and having analyzed and specified building products for use from the Middle East to the Arctic for decades, and having a Masters in Arctic Engineering (a degree predominately in energy conservation and heat flow), my personal opinion is that these radiant barriers will be banned by code within 10-15 years for unheated (so-called "cold" roofs) roofs, because they just do not use the principles of thermodynamics correctly. For more info on this issue Google the following search phrase  - moisture trapping by radiant attic barriers       and read the government (not the manufacturer) literature on the issue.

5) Unfortunately, the right way to handle this issue is to put the radiant surface on the OUTSIDE of the house - by using reflective materials on the roofing material. This is already done with flat roofs, house trailers, and industrial structures by spraying with alumiunum paint, and a few brands offer reflective aggregate shingles that are slightly more reflective and radiant than normal shingles. People obviously do not like this reflective surface from an aesthetic standpoint, though with solar cells coming into more general use this may soon be more widely adopted. The idea should be to keep the solar energy from penetrating into the building envelope at all, not try to re-reflect it away after it has penetrated throguh the roof system.

The sprayed-in foam has a couple of issues you need to be aware of:

6) it needs to be the low-pressure expanding type mixed for use around window frames, as fully expanding foam can bow joists or trusses and pop drywall ceilings free as it expands, and non-expanding foam actually shrinks as it cures, leaving gaps for air and heat flow alongside the ceiling joists.

7) being closed-cell it is essentially impervious to moisture, so the vapor barrier on the house side has to be EXCELLENT (incuding sealingof all penetrations), or it will trap household moisture escaping into the attic and promote mold and rot in the ceiling drywall and joists.

8) it tends to bleed chemical fumes into the house for a long period of time (can be noticeable for years), which may be objectionable to some people from an odor or environmental standpoint, and especially should be considered if any residents have severe allergy issues or respiratory problems.

9) I emphatically recommend AGAINST use of sprayed-in foam between ceiling joists or truss members in any area that can have cold attic air that could cause moisture condensation in the insulation, though this is probably not a significant problem where you live, assuming your Dallas is the city in Texas. For essentially year-around air-conditioned homes in hot climates, the problem can actually be condensation of attic air moisture on and in the colder ceiling surface insulation and on cold attic runs of air conditioned air, so attic ventilation becomes a critical issue to remove the moisture before it condenses.

In summary, having seen an awful lot of attic moisture and thermal problems, my personal recommendation would be to ensure excellent sealing of the house from the attic, use normal UNFACED fiberglass insulation, and instead of a radiant barrier ensure adequate full-attic ventilation. If you decide to got with a radiant barrier, then I would recommend a perforated one, sloping up towards the sides a foot or two and stopping a foot or so clear at the sides so moist air under it can escape to the roof joist spaces and be vented from the attic. I have seen this done several times with a fine nylon net strung above the insulation in the attic, supporting the barrier, resulting in something very similar to the double-roof system used in bedouin tents, where airflow between the two layers keep the hot air away from the living space.

Steve made a good point.  Also, while it isn't required to remove the old insulation you can check the ductwork, wiring, etc. with the old stuff removed,  You can also spray foam around all openings and holes in wall top plates to better seal your home as Steve was pointing out.  My concern is the potential for mold spores you mentioned in your question.  If you suspect there are any get a good company in to remove the old and clean the attic.  Another concern is asbestos.  Your home is old enough you could have it in there and that's worse than mold if released into the air.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services

A moisture barrier has to be on the warm side ie towards the heated side.  Most people would not install a moisture barrier in your situation.  (They also sell a paint that you can use on your interior ceiling? as a moisture barrier).  Rather most homeowners would hire an insulation contractor to blow a cap over the existing insulation bringing it up to your areas reccomended levels,,Your power company can tell you the level, I would guess R 40.  What you use is up to your wallet, the best is a spray foam that can be applied to the ceiling or over the whole shebang.  Being a bit of a miser I would trot on down to my local big box store and buy a truckload of cellulose and get a free blower for I and a friend to self insulte.  Big box= Menards, Lowes etc.  Cellulose= ground up paper treated with boron for insect control and fireproofing.  It has a high R value and will stop moving air loss from the home. Before you cap current mostly emply attic is ideal time to take sealant to any openings in the attic floor,  like pocket doors, canister lights electircal wires and close off the air leaks from inside.  If foaming skip this.  Hot air rises so you save yourself a ton air sealing the home.

An attic radiant barrier is also a possiblity see my blog for nifty results on it.

Jim Casper Old Energy Conservation Guru

ps moving existing insulation use a plastic rake


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Insulation reviews in Burlington


Forrest gave a very competitive price and also assisted with all rebate paperwork. Crew showed up on time and finished job quickly. Some areas were a little low in coverage, but overall fine. For the price, I thought it was well worth it and the energy savings in the summer is very noticeable.
- Jacob D.

4 guys arrived early AM. Worked hard all day. Took a few breaks but needed them. I was quite happy with their work.
- Merrill S.

Three employees showed up. Each one shook my hand and introduced themselves. Extremely efficient, neat and hard working. Extremely professional. Company owner was on site for duration of work.
- Kvin H.

Everything was quick and easy.
Burlington Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
called ahead to confirm appointment, and they were prompt. They were very personable and easy to work with. They worked quickly and efficiently. Everything that was moved out of the way to access the attic and equipment was put back before they left. Great value for the money!
- Karen F.

This was a great deal! I recently bought an older home, with a secondary house on the same lot. Both of these units were not insulated and I expected to have to pay a great deal of money to get this done. The Deal offered here was for 1000 sq feet, and
Burlington Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
was able to let me allocate my unused square footage towards the back house, and provided the remaining square footage need to complete the back house at a reduced rate. His team arrived the next day and they were courteous and mindful of my pets' needing to be kept penned and the doors kept closed (I just moved in and was nervous the animals might try to bolt with strangers in the house).
After the work was done I saw no evidence of any stray material or debris left behind. The work itself was very quiet (I had imagined it would be a really noisy process). And, they were really quick too!
Burlington Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
called me today to check on my satisfaction...when does that ever happen??!! I was pleased to tell him that my house was freezing cold this morning!!!
- Mike S.

I had several contractors come to the house to give me an estimate. They wanted to replace ALL of my crawlspace insulation with estimates above $2200.00 and quite frankly they seemed a little sketchy. They wanted a 50% deposit immediately and I felt a little uncomfortable handing over $1000 plus dollars to someone that I couldn't even research on the web.
I contacted
Burlington Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
because they had been in business for over 50 years as a family owned and operated company.
Burlington Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
came out to the house within 2 days and was promptly here when he said he would be. He did a thorough inspection of my crawlspace and said that I needed some repairs, but not all of the insulation was bad. He wanted to reattach some of the old insulation and replace the insulation that was actually bad. I also wanted to replace my contractor grade vapor
Burlington Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
. His estimate was less than $800 and he used an upgraded 10 mil vapor
Burlington Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
(it happens to be white in color and really spruced up the appearance of the crawlspace as well). His three man crew showed up when promised and immediately went to work. It was a very hot day and my crawlspace is very low, so this was a very difficult job to say the least. The young men were very respectful and hard workers. They were the type of guys that you could give full access to your house and you would have no worries at all.
I would not hesitate to recommend
Burlington Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
and I would certainly use them again.

I highly recommend
Burlington Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
. After dealing with a number of small contractors over the years to do various odd jobs, it was like a breath of fresh air from start to finish with these guys. They earned my trust and confidence each in each step of the process.
1. When I called they actually answered the phone. (As dumb as that sounds, I found many do not and several don't even bother calling back,)
Burlington Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
, the owner, spoke with me himself and was extremely professional, guided me through the process and the pricing upfront. He answered all my questions fully and made me feel quite confident that I had made the right decision calling his company. (Most others that I spoke with either seemed bothered that I had called or came across as sleazy con-men, and none gave up front pricing.)
3. The
Burlington Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
arrived on time and was ready to begin work right away. (I can tell you horror stories about other contractors who could not even do this
Burlington Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
4. The
Burlington Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
was polite. Yes POLITE!!!
5. The
Burlington Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
had all the correct tools. (My lending toolbox stayed in the
Burlington Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
of the car.)
6. The
Burlington Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
confirmed the scope of the work, inspected the work area, confirmed the estimated time and once again made sure that I was aware of the pricing up front.
Burlington Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
knew what to do and did it effectively and efficiently. It was really fun just watching him knock it out, almost like it was choreographed. They say that pros make it look easy, this guy made it look dead
Burlington Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
. (I know from personal experience it was not easy at all when you have a steep roof, that's why I hired them in the first place, that and I am getting old.)
8. He would have cleaned up at the end but I stopped him as he had done quite enough on such a hot day and because I figured that I could do the cleaning myself.)
9. When he completed the work he thanked me for the opportunity to work on my project and said that he would be happy to assist me in any future projects.
10. The company sent me my receipt by email and thanked me for my business.
Honest, friendly, polite, professional, experienced, knowledgeable, trustworthy, hard working, and not over priced. Yup! I recommend them.

- Christian W.

They have a minimum fee of $475 for all jobs. My job was not quite $475 so I had to pay the minimum. This is archaic but I paid it so obviously, I am feeding the monster.
The crew arrived almost an hour late, despite knowing their work preceded a window installation project and would impact the other contractor. Stuff happens - they said they got stuck in traffic. This is Columbus, OH, not New
Burlington Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
City. I am amazed when, often, contractors arrive late and blame it on traffic. I go to work everyday, and I arrive on time because I plan for .... traffic. While attempting to pull their large box truck up to the
Burlington Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
in front of my house, the crew shaved off a large branch of my neighbor's tree. I had to yell for them to stop or the damage would have been a lot worse. Ultimately, they had to ask the window installers to move their truck from that spot - after asking ME to negotiate with that crew, for them.
Thankfully, the window installers, who had already begun, agreed to move their truck, then stepped aside and waited for the insulation to be installed. At one point, a supervisor showed up on site and did not introduce himself to me. I had to ask him, as he wandered around my patio, if I could help him, and who was he? He eventually gave me his name but seemed disinterested in communicating with anyone other than his crew. Nice attempt at quality control but a bit of a blunder on customer service.
After the insulation was in, the crew got ready to leave, without cleaning up the mess they made while drilling holes in my cedar and blowing insulation into the walls. I asked, "Do you guys clean this up?", they replied, "Not usually." So I asked them to do so today. They then had to ask the window installers to borrow their shop vac to remove the debris strewn all over my porch. When it came time to pay the bill, they doubled the price. I laughed and said, "Nice try." Additional unfunny comments followed to which I did not reply.
Overall, work seemed fine. Not the most comforting experience with a contractor I've had this summer.

Insulation Contractors in Burlington, WI

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!


1810 Oakdale Drive

Abby Windows LLC

525 N 94th St

Absolute Drywall & Insulation

4001 W Cheyenne St

Absolute Home Improvements Inc.

717 1/2 Clark Ave
South Milwaukee

Acadia Finishers LLC

9716 Pioneer Rd

Action Fire

2122 SW Ave

AD Roofing LLC

19700 W. Edgewood Dr



Aluma- Trim Of America

10134 N Port Washington Rd

AM Painting & Drywalling, LLC

5449 W Highlands Ct

ambrose drywall enterprise llc

1041 27th St

American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd

Aristocrat Remodeling & HAVC

815 elizabeth st


6001 N. GreenBay Rd

Barajas Construction Llc

2545 s. 15th pl

Bat Pros of Wisconsin

27427 Denoon Rd


2929 North 114th Street

Blaze Insulation

N 859 Dietrich Dr

BNW Installations Inc

10811 7th St

Brandt Construction

3812 Glencoe Dr.

C & K Services Inc of Newburg

6677 Carmody Ct

Callahan Window Company

3031 Newman Rd

Callen Construction Inc

S63 W13131 Janesville Rd

Camp Industries Inc.

1522 87th Place

Capital Heating & Cooling

16920 W. Cleveland Ave.
New Berlin

CK Remodeling

2731 Cardinal Dr.


6475 N 40TH ST

Contractors Unilimited LLC

N109W15711 Prophet Ct

Creekstone Custom Carpentry, LLC

N144w6818 Pioneer Rd


1137 Elm Lawn St


New Berlin

Day and Night Restoration and Remodeling

S67W24465 Skyline Ave

Dietscher Roofing Inc

6239 S 106Th St
Hales Corners


3836 N 61ST ST

Done Right Builders LLC

1100 s 1st street

Elite Exteriors LLC

17790A W Liberty Ln
New Berlin

Elite Roofing & Gutters LLC

1649 Warwick Way

Energy House LLC

N52W27222 Elizabeth Dr

Energy Masters LLC

8152 N Ivy St
Brown Deer

Functional Home


GR General Contracting

2307 W Edgewood Ct

Green Sphere Design+Build

302 E. Buridck Ave

Guardian Home Exteriors

4401 S Kansas Ave

Handy Husbands

1121 Sheraton Dr.


South Milwaukee

Hardy & Jensen Inc

6525 Washington Ave

HomeSealed Exteriors, LLC

2206 S. 108th

House Home Improvements LLC

9305 W National Ave

Infinity Exteriors LLC

1921 S West Ave


321 N 25th St

Inter-State Roofing Service

9130 W Schlinger Ave
West Allis

J & J General Contractors Inc

2003 S Muskego Ave

J. Way Construction, LLC


Kevin Schmitt Siding & Insulation, Inc.

23728 Dover Line Rd

KMF Construction LLC

7690 Overlook Dr

Krause Services

P.O. Box 549



Lass Construction Corporation

6400 W Capitol Drive

Lifetime Insulation Inc

4606 Empire Lane

Major League Builders

W387 S3160 County Road Z

Marcott Remodeling

N53W16614 Prairie Dawn
Menomonee Falls

Mastercat Inc

651 S Sutton Road


New Berlin

Mather's Improvement Service

30735 Durand Avenue

Mc Hammer

3530 S. River Glen Ln. Apt #8

MG Renovating, LLC

W183 S6312 Shagbark Lane


North Prairie

Mr Handyman Of Waukesha & N Milwaukee County

2727 N Grandview Blvd

Mundschau Built Exteriors LLC

S39 W32275 Wern Way

My Handy Man




Navejar Construction

3055 S. 14th Street

Over the Top Roofing & Construction

N59 W14464 Bobolink Ave
Menomonee Falls

Panda Home Improvement LLC

N57 W13636 Carmen Ave
Menomonee Falls

Paul Crandall & Associates Inc

1645 N Port Washington Rd

Pinnacle Home Improvements LLC

15320 Mars Ct

Premier Home Improvements

2426 Roosevelt Rd

Premier North Insulation

214 Bonnie Lane

QRS Group


Quality Home Exteriors

6652 Channel Rd.

Ramz General Construction, LLC

836 s 75th st
West Allis


P.O.Box 18394

Ridgeway Construction LLC

7955 Ridgeway Dr.

RNB Design Group

W157 N11647 Fond du Lac Ave


1112 Pearl St.

Royal Exteriors

3599 Heatherstone Ridge
Sun Prairie

S & E Insulation Inc

6438 W Mill Rd

SAW Contracting

14703 Washington Ave
Union Grove

Seal Tight Insulation LLC

2828 S. 9th PL.



Shingles Etc Inc

9831 Old Green Bay Rd
Pleasant Prairie

Solar Pro WI LLC

1213 Melby Drive

Soundrite-Acoustics, Inc.

209 S. Stephanie Street

ST General Contractor LLC

1513 mackinac ave

Stack's Services

17555 W Steven Dr
New Berlin

State Farm Insurance - Mike Gogin

418 Merton Avenue

Stein Home Solutions Inc

W 270 N 2444 Orchard Ln



Superior Building & Remodeling

West 146 S 9501 Groveway Ln

T. L. Reese

2130 West Clybourn Street

Tarantino Roofing

N 90 W 20682 Scenic Dr
Menomonee Falls


2325a Parklawn Dr

That Construction Company

8170 Old Carriage court N

The Millwork Masters LLC

1827 33rd St



Tic Tac Remodeling

1236 N. 10th Ave.
West Bend

toms home improvement

3564 Douglas Ave

Total Energy Savers, INC.

10582 50th Ave.
Pleasant Prairie

Two J's Home Improvements LLC

W 350 N 5362 Rd B

United Aluminum Co

W144s7913 Durham Dr

United Builders LLC

1297 Lakeview Rd
West Bend

Universal Windows Direct

1729 S 108th St


12637 S 265 W Suite 100

Weather Tight Corporation

11400 W Oklahoma Ave
West Allis

Weatherization Services LLC

1101 W Layton Ave

WeatherPro Exteriors Inc.

1815 S. 108th Street
West Allis

Wholesale Insulation Dist/Installers

W 225 S 9470 Big Bend Dr
Big Bend

Wilkins Weatherization

3805 N 6th St

Window N Door Store, LLC

6600 W Howard Ave

Wisconsin Energy Audits

720 Avalon Rd.

Wisconsin Energy Savers

8633 W. Greenfield Ave.
West Allis


Menomonee Falls

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