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Over 13,643 reviews for
Vancouver Insulation Contractors from people just like you.

"The salesperson came to my home in March of 2015, did the presentation and during the walk thru noted that I needed to remove the knob and tube wiring before the" insulation could be installed. The electrical work was going to cost a nice penny so I asked if they would honor the quoted discounted price and they said yes. It was actually that I spoke to and he was very down to earth and a true professional that cares about providing great customer service. It took me a while to get the electrical done and when I called he knew who I was and as promised honored the quote. The installers showed up on time, completed the entire job in 5 hours. Let me home (inside and out) clean. From the first day I could tell there was a noticeable difference in the climate and comfort in my home. They did a great job and I would recommend them to anyone needing this type of service.

-Timothy B.

"Copper radiant installed professionally in one day. Ridge venting installed in one day. No issues with either...except, " did not advise that I should have also had my two turbine vents plugged. Most reputable roofers and tons of literature on the internet will advise you to only have one type of attic exhaust system. don't mix them. More vents to not equal better ventilation. In fact, multi-systems will work against one another. Advise you to consult a ventilation expert before considering adding any type of radiant . Called about this and they don't agree with roofing companies or the information out on the internet. They know better. don't risk your home on their narrow thinking.

-Patrick E.

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Local Articles in Vancouver

Icicles hanging from roof

Avoid Ice Dams With Proper Attic Insulation

An ice dam can cause serious problems to your roof without proper insulation.

Kitchen exhaust fan

Home exhaust fans don't just remove stale odors. They also help improve indoor air quality.

Roof ventilator

Improper attic ventilation can cause your energy bills to rise and severely damage your roof.

insulation in attic

When cooler weather arrives, many homeowners hire an insulation contractor to perform an attic inspection.

husband and wife with two small children holding big check in front of home

Dream Kitchen Sweepstakes allows Maryland couple to rekindle their dream kitchen and bathroom remodel.

Angie's Answers


If you go the Better Business Bureau website you can see that the company has only had two complaints in the last 18 months and that they have both been resolved.  The company has an A+ rating.  This is not something you can buy.


There are genuine reviews on many 3rd party online review sites including AngiesList and the Better Business Bureau.  Simply do a Google search for "Smart Energy Today Reviews".


Sol Blanket Insulation acts as a radiant barrier, insulation and a vapor barrier.  It is not intended to replace traditional insulation but in fact compliments it and adds to it's ability to keep cool/hot air (depending on the season) in the home when the envelope of the home is properly sealed.  


Every attic is different and there are many other components that must be considered.  You mentioned an attic fan as well.  The heat that is radiated away from the ceiling by the Sol-Blanket Insulation is pushed out of the attic with an attic fan.  The US Department of Energy states that radiant barriers do work and suggest they be installed by professionals.


As with any product by any company if the product is not installed properly and other factors (attic fan, caulking and sealing, etc...) are not addressed then it will not be as effective.


A couple of comments about what Jim said:

1) Regarding type of insulation, in cold winter environments: Cellulose and fiberglass are actually about comparable in R value when installed - blown in cellulose runs from 3.2-3.8 R value, fiberglass batt 2.9-4.3 R value depending on manufacturer and whether hig-density or low density, high-efficiency or standard, according to official Department of Energy publications. Measured values in attic test cases, in areas with a true winter, after 10 years showed a decrease from 3.4 (in the test case) down to 2.1 for cellulose, and 3.5 to 3.3 for fiberglass batt, due to packing or matting. In an attic environment, there WILL be condensation or frost on the insulation at some point during the year (assuming an area with true winters) and in highly insulated houses commonly for a substantial time period each winter. Fiberglass packs down slightly from that weight but mostly rebounds, cellulose packs down and mats and does not substantially recover, so over the years cellulose loses 1/3 to close to 1/2 its insulation value, fiberglass about 10%.

2) a note on radiation barriers attached to the bottom of the rafters - there are a lot of installers and homeowners making two major mistakes with this product that can cause major trouble: First, be sure to terminate it short of the eave openings. I have seen cases where it was carried all the way out to the fascia board, thereby blocking all airflow on the underside of the roof. Even carrying it all the way to the eaves along the bottom of the rafters will block off ventilation to the main attic area. You have to leave the air space between the rafters open to full airflow from the soffit/eave area ot the ridge vent. Second, do NOT run it continuous from eave to eave across the full width of the attic - leave a gap about a foot wide under the ridge vents so warm and moist air in the attic can vent through the ridge vent. Closing the ridge vent area off with the radiant barrier effectively puts a vapor barrier around the main attic area, causing retention of the moisture which WILL accumulate there, promoting mold.


Obviously this is not a timely response to the initial question. However, for those who may be reading these answers at a later time, a couple of added thoughts:

1) the radiant barrier being discussed is basically heavy-duty metal foil or metallized surface on a plastic sheet, intended to reflect RADIATED heat (infrared radiation - think heat light, or heat you can feel at a distance radiated from a fireplace), the same way a mirror reflects light. Radiated heat is how a standard oven broils and how steam and hot water baseboard heat predominately work.

2) you generally should do NOT place a radiant barrier over the insulation that lies between and over the joists in a normal attic, especially in a region where the attic temperature can frequently reach condensation temperature (below about 45-50 degrees) - it may reflect back some of the house heat that is coming up from the house, but by destroying most of the temperature gradient from the house to the attic air destroys much of the driving force that moves moisture to the attic air and subsequent venting. Between that greater heat and the fact the barrier is also a moisture barrier, that makes a perfect condition for mold and rot in your insulation and attic wood, and has become quite an issue in energy upgraded homes because of retrofits that cut off airflow outside the insulation, but do not cut off the moisture source leaking thorough from the house. The proper and ONLY place for a vapor barrier in a normal attic insulation system is on the pressurized and normal warm, humid side of the insulation zone - directly above the ceiling drywall in the top floor, fastened to the UNDERSIDE of the ceiling joists or trusses, NOT anywhere above that. Perforated barriers are supposed to reduce this tendency, but the perforation area percentage is so small that typically they still act as a vapor varrier, just not a totally effective one.

3) radiant barriers reflect radiated heat ewith up to 99% efficiency but have basically zero resistance to CONDUCTION (body to body heat transfer at points of contact - think heat transfer from your warm hand to a frozen cold drink can, or hot pavement heat transfer to the bottom of your feet) - so there needs to be an air gap between the radiant barrier and the hot item passing the heat to it, otherwise the heat will just pass through it by conduction. Therefore, applying it directly to the sheathing (above or below) or manufacturing it directly on the surface of the sheathing defeats its purpose, even though this is commonly done.

4) there is a lot of discussion, particularly in the professional design community, about attic radiant heat barrier effectiveness and problems. Because they are being installed on the bottom of the sheathing or underside of roof joists, they act as a heat trap for the energy being conducted through the roof which would normally radiate into the attic air or be transferred by CONVECTION (fluid flow heat transfer) to the attic air, and be vented through roof vents, ridge vents, gable vents, etc. By trapping that heat, they are causing the underside of the shingles and particularly the felt and sheathing to get a lot hotter than they otherside would, essentially changing it from a system where the shingle top surface might reach 120-180 F and the inside surface of the sheathing about 80-140F in the summer, to making the entire roof system equal to the outside surface temperature. This causes more rapid shingle deterioration and cracking, and makes the felt or plastic moisture barrier under the shingles brittle and subject to failure.

Also, any moisture above the radiant barrier (from roof leaks or humid air coming into the area) is prevented from evaporating by the attic airflow which would normally remove it, so it starts acting like a steamer. I have seen both wood and metal lofts and attics become a major mold farm in months because of this effect, and a couple of roofs which started sagging due to rotted sheathing within 2 years of reroofing with tightly adhered radiant barrier. Some radiant barriers are vapor-permeable to reduce the moisture issue, many are not, but few actually are effective in letting moisture freely escape.

Having seen these products in use, and having analyzed and specified building products for use from the Middle East to the Arctic for decades, and having a Masters in Arctic Engineering (a degree predominately in energy conservation and heat flow), my personal opinion is that these radiant barriers will be banned by code within 10-15 years for unheated (so-called "cold" roofs) roofs, because they just do not use the principles of thermodynamics correctly. For more info on this issue Google the following search phrase  - moisture trapping by radiant attic barriers       and read the government (not the manufacturer) literature on the issue.

5) Unfortunately, the right way to handle this issue is to put the radiant surface on the OUTSIDE of the house - by using reflective materials on the roofing material. This is already done with flat roofs, house trailers, and industrial structures by spraying with alumiunum paint, and a few brands offer reflective aggregate shingles that are slightly more reflective and radiant than normal shingles. People obviously do not like this reflective surface from an aesthetic standpoint, though with solar cells coming into more general use this may soon be more widely adopted. The idea should be to keep the solar energy from penetrating into the building envelope at all, not try to re-reflect it away after it has penetrated throguh the roof system.

The sprayed-in foam has a couple of issues you need to be aware of:

6) it needs to be the low-pressure expanding type mixed for use around window frames, as fully expanding foam can bow joists or trusses and pop drywall ceilings free as it expands, and non-expanding foam actually shrinks as it cures, leaving gaps for air and heat flow alongside the ceiling joists.

7) being closed-cell it is essentially impervious to moisture, so the vapor barrier on the house side has to be EXCELLENT (incuding sealingof all penetrations), or it will trap household moisture escaping into the attic and promote mold and rot in the ceiling drywall and joists.

8) it tends to bleed chemical fumes into the house for a long period of time (can be noticeable for years), which may be objectionable to some people from an odor or environmental standpoint, and especially should be considered if any residents have severe allergy issues or respiratory problems.

9) I emphatically recommend AGAINST use of sprayed-in foam between ceiling joists or truss members in any area that can have cold attic air that could cause moisture condensation in the insulation, though this is probably not a significant problem where you live, assuming your Dallas is the city in Texas. For essentially year-around air-conditioned homes in hot climates, the problem can actually be condensation of attic air moisture on and in the colder ceiling surface insulation and on cold attic runs of air conditioned air, so attic ventilation becomes a critical issue to remove the moisture before it condenses.

In summary, having seen an awful lot of attic moisture and thermal problems, my personal recommendation would be to ensure excellent sealing of the house from the attic, use normal UNFACED fiberglass insulation, and instead of a radiant barrier ensure adequate full-attic ventilation. If you decide to got with a radiant barrier, then I would recommend a perforated one, sloping up towards the sides a foot or two and stopping a foot or so clear at the sides so moist air under it can escape to the roof joist spaces and be vented from the attic. I have seen this done several times with a fine nylon net strung above the insulation in the attic, supporting the barrier, resulting in something very similar to the double-roof system used in bedouin tents, where airflow between the two layers keep the hot air away from the living space.

Steve made a good point.  Also, while it isn't required to remove the old insulation you can check the ductwork, wiring, etc. with the old stuff removed,  You can also spray foam around all openings and holes in wall top plates to better seal your home as Steve was pointing out.  My concern is the potential for mold spores you mentioned in your question.  If you suspect there are any get a good company in to remove the old and clean the attic.  Another concern is asbestos.  Your home is old enough you could have it in there and that's worse than mold if released into the air.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services

A moisture barrier has to be on the warm side ie towards the heated side.  Most people would not install a moisture barrier in your situation.  (They also sell a paint that you can use on your interior ceiling? as a moisture barrier).  Rather most homeowners would hire an insulation contractor to blow a cap over the existing insulation bringing it up to your areas reccomended levels,,Your power company can tell you the level, I would guess R 40.  What you use is up to your wallet, the best is a spray foam that can be applied to the ceiling or over the whole shebang.  Being a bit of a miser I would trot on down to my local big box store and buy a truckload of cellulose and get a free blower for I and a friend to self insulte.  Big box= Menards, Lowes etc.  Cellulose= ground up paper treated with boron for insect control and fireproofing.  It has a high R value and will stop moving air loss from the home. Before you cap current mostly emply attic is ideal time to take sealant to any openings in the attic floor,  like pocket doors, canister lights electircal wires and close off the air leaks from inside.  If foaming skip this.  Hot air rises so you save yourself a ton air sealing the home.

An attic radiant barrier is also a possiblity see my blog for nifty results on it.

Jim Casper Old Energy Conservation Guru

ps moving existing insulation use a plastic rake


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Insulation reviews in Vancouver


We were extremely pleased. Our LG&E energy audit showed an improvement in the efficiency of our home by 58%, and we received LG&E's $1,000 credit. They were professional and very knowledgeable. However, they only do insulation, we had another company (ACN Home Services, LLC) come do our air sealing (caulking windows and weatherproofing doors).
- Carrie C.

They arrived early in the morning and greeted me he and was very professional. As they accessed the attic they were very careful with my belongings in the surrounding areas and took all precautionary measures, as they started right away. explain in detail how the radiant helped ...More and what it consisted of. Once that was sprayed they ran tubing thru to blow the insulation in the attic. Again being mindful of my belongings. Once finished he showed me the finished product of how it looked and swept and cleaned up after themselves(which wasn't much) and off they went. I was satisfied with the way things turned out and I would recommend them to anyone in need of attic insulation.

came out less than 24 hours after my initial call and quickly evaluated the situation, provided a plan of attack an explained my options and budget and my need to complete this quickly in order to meet a short deadline for a reinspection so the closing of our home with the buyer could remain on schedule. In fact the inspector ...More for the buyer of our home was so impressed with The work 's crew did he asked me for their contact information so he could provide information to other sellers where mold remediation is required.
- Robert S.

is great. Very easy to work with. Shows up when he says- workds hard. Does a nice job. Work was done properly and well.
Great guy and if you need attic insulation- I would recommend him.
- James T.

First off the job I was wanting done was a small job. I installed a window in the mud room and when I removed the paneling in the wall to cut the hole for the window, I found unexpected voids in the wall from the previous work. I also put up a stud wall in the west of the mud room. My original plan was to fully insulate with foam the mud room because ...More it was the only room in the house left exposed to outside temperature changes. I expected to pay fully for the work.
, owner and president of Air Tight, came over to give me a proper estimate for the work I wanted done. I showed all that I wanted done from the garage end first and then I showed him the wall with the newly installed window. He noticed the voids in the wall and was surprised because his company "does not do substandard work," as put it. I was prepared to pay for the new work I wanted done, but he told me Air Tight of would do it for free.
Air Tight of stands behind their work more than a 100%. I could not be happier with the insulation. The house stays warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer with the new heating and cooling system without sky high bills. There is no more creaking or popping with the change in temperature any longer. As an added bonus to the foam insulation, there is less movement do to strong winds, one can hardly hear the wind or rain for that matter.
The employees are excited about their product and that excitement I picked up on at the Home Show, where I was introduced to foam installation as a retrofit option. The cost was reasonable and I expect to pay less in gas and electricity for heating and cooling over the next few years.
I highly recommend Air Tight of for new construction and remodeling for your insulation needs.
- Harold A.

The father came out and was very professional.He also held the ladder and helped me get up and down off the roof and was right there on it the whole time.He even told me when to stop as i was getting to close to stepping off the roof.
He installed a few openings to the attic and foamed around the area by the ac work that would help stop ...More intrusion of unwanted pests/rodents. He was a very pleasant man and very prompt. The next step is to meet his son and hope it will be as pleasant as the meeting of the father. Thanks,
- Gilbert and Rotonya L.

came on time for an estimate. He looked into my attic from both the hallway access and garage access. He proposed adding 16" of blown-in fiberglass insulation to bring my attic to a R60 rating. There was already 4" of fiberglass insulation between the rafters. He also said he would reposition ...More the existing sheets of plywood at no charge. He prepared a quote which included a senior discount and Angie's list discount, and I signed the contract. The work was scheduled for the following week and his two workers arrived on schedule, were very pleasant and professional, and got the job done in about 3 hours. They cleaned up afterward and didn't leave any mess. I chose initially based on their excellent reviews (and offer of a senior discount). was honest and accommodating so I was very comfortable contracting him to insulate my attic. I knew he'd do a good job and he did.
- Gayle D.

's crew showed up at the agreed upon time, got to work quickly and finished in a couple of hours. They took care to protect the floors and put fans in the basement windows to vent the fumes from the foam they used to seal the crawl space. They were courteous, professional and efficient, and also explained ...More the rebates available for the work through the local power company.
- David K.

Insulation Contractors in Vancouver, WA

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

1-800 Water Damage

8002 NE Hwy 99

3g Contractors Llc

12906 NE 76TH ST

A Cut Above Exteriors

18151 SW Boones Ferry Rd

A.C.S. Northwest

6028 se 51st ave

A1 Retrofit LLC

1811 ne 84th way

AAROCO Construction LLC

6146 SE Lexington St

Affordable Remodeling LLC

7967 Mykala Street NE

Affordable Restoration and Remodel

PO Box 821974

AMA Construction Group

2272 SE Brookwood Ave



American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd

Bartley Renovation Services

124 Woodside Dr.

Blake Enterprises

15997 SE Tong Rd

Breunig Construction Inc.

14360 SE Haze Ct.

Build-It Green

105 N Killingsworth St., #1

C's Home Remodel & Repair

1221 SE Ellsworth Road

Calvin & Jobs Home Repair LLC

408 S. Maple Ave

CAPO Construction

1000 NE 117th Av

Cardinal LLC

205 NW 46th Street

Cascade Valley Construction

12447 Military Rd


1905 SW 257TH AVE


PO Box 987654


11418 NE 72nd
Battle Ground

Champion Window of Portland

13009 NE David Cir



Columbia NW, Inc.

5414 NE 101ST CIR

Concept Construction, Inc

121 E. Columbia River Hwy

Construction Creations

12420 SW Alberta St.

Construction Junction

2035 SW Leewood Dr

Critter Control

6809 SE Foster Rd

Cumulus Design

P.O Box 57

Custom Touch Contracting

28525 SE Lusted Rd

D home services

18645 SW Farmington Rd Beaverton

DaBella Exteriors LLC ®

10300 SW Nimbus Ave

David E. Logue Construction

3564 sw hillside dr

DC2 Construction Inc

3412 NE 127th St

Dean Shelley Construction

6950 SE 134th Ave

Division 6 Contracting

14413 ne Douglas fir ct

Douglass Carpentry & Construction LLC

1915-A East 5th Street

Dr. Crawlspace, LLC

10121 SE Sunnyside Rd Suite #300

E&A Auto Repair LLC

6014 NE 112th ave


11508 NE 32ND ST


7302 N Richmond Ave

EMI Drywall

2900 SW Cornelius Pass Rd.

Energy Comfort Construction

15635 SE 114th Ave

Energy Unlimited LLC

38888 Pioneer Blvd

Entek Corporation

7316 NE 47th Avenue

Evergreen Renovations

14605 SW Bonanza Ct


PO Box 872768

G&Z Construction

9112 Ne 92nd Avenue

Giron Construction LLC

5633 SE 111th Ave

Global Pacific Environmental Inc

1919 W 39th St

Graciano's Construction LLC

300 SW 7th Ave #91
Battle Ground

Green Depot

819 SE Taylor

Green Energy Solutions

23515 NW Clara Lane Suite 150

Green O Construction, LLC.

1112 SE Maple St #C

Greenfin Construction

3171 NE 13th Pl

Gresham Roofing and Construction

16921 Southeast Tristin Avenue


8630 SW Scholls Ferry Rd

Handyman Matters

7350 SW Landmark Ln



Healthy Home Services

14710 SE LEE AVE

Heat Relief

13122 NE David Cir

Henderson & Daughter

11819 NE Hwy 99


580 7TH AVE



Home Improvement Pro

2073 N Maple St

Home Visions West

272 SW Baseline St

hq construction

2707 ne 84th ave

Hutchco Construction Inc.

2553 NW Division St

IBP Portland

6750 S.W. 111th Avenue

Imagine Energy

2409 N Kerby Ave

Indy Construction LLC

3307 Evergreen Way


5408 NE 88TH ST

InsulPro Projects (Comm)

26277 SW 95TH Ave

Interstate Pest Management

5320 SW Macadam Ave

Interstate Roofing

15065 SW 74th Ave


12609 NE 95TH ST

J Blake Construction & Remodel

1702 SE Oak Shore Ln

James Woodworking Inc

3829 NE Columbia Blvd

JB Wood Construction

2830 Burlington Dr

John Webb Construction & Design

1256 Willagillespie RD

John's Water Proofing

201 Airport Rd

John's Waterproofing

201 Airport Rd

Joseph Ketner Construction

22707 SE Firwood Rd

JR Insulation Drywall

PO Box 5499

JS Roofing

3126 SW 153rd Dr



K-Brothers Services LLC

617 SE 10th Street
Battle Ground

Lo's Contracting, Inc.

4110 NE 122nd Ave

M & D Construction & Handyman

711 NW 25th Ave.
Battle Ground

Mason Creek General, llc

30707 NE 87th Ave
Battle Ground

Matrix Roofing

PO Box 822440

Maximum Construction

18410 S Green View Dr

MetFab Heating, Inc.

13914 NE 28th Street

Millennium Specialties, LLC

15713 NE 38th Circle


PO Box 1861
Battle Ground


4310 NE 56TH ST


2210 W Main St
Battle Ground

Neil G. Blatner

9355 SW 12th Dr.

Nest-Assured Construction

873 SE Oak Glen Way Apt 242

New Leaf Pest Control

13317 NE 51st Street

New World Inc




Northwest Weatherization

2704 SE 39th Loop

NW Insulation Experts, LLC

2225 SW Lafollett Rd

OHI Construction

17255 Pilkington Rd

Pac NW Energy Solutions

237 NE Chkalov Dr

Pacific NW remodeling

10513 NE 10th st

Pacific West Roofing LLC

9360 SW Tualatin Sherwood Rd

Perfect Touch Drywall Inc

32758 S Mathias Rd


6811 NE 131ST AVE

Point Blank Construction & Remodeling

706 NW 24th Ave
Battle Ground



Revival Energy Group

7208 NE Hazel Dell Ave.

RH Company Inc.

19006 NE 92nd Ave
Battle Ground


6014 NE 124TH CT

Rich's Repair All

17611 NE 188th Ct
Brush Prairie

Richart Family, Inc.

14600 NE 20TH AVE

Rockstar Remodel

6533 SW Virginia Ave Ste G



Russ Construction & Remodeling LLC

14302 NE 9th st


1108 NE 146TH ST

Safe Construction LLC

10304 NE 34th Circle

Schulz Construction llc.

21395 SW Murphy Ln

Service Group Construction

10411 NE Fourth Plain,


15051 SE Bluff Rd

Simmons & Crowe Pest Control

22496 SW Meissinger Pl

Smart Choice Heating & Cooling

7405 NE 94Th Ave

Smart Energy Solutions

302 Court of Elm

Snap Clean LLC

605 SE 11th St
Battle Ground

Soundrite-Acoustics, Inc.

209 S. Stephanie Street

Specialty Heating & Cooling Inc

7500 SW Tech Center Dr

Spray-On Foam & Coatings, Inc.

7902 NE St Johns Rd

Straight Edge Painting & Cons

10330 SW Kennedy st

Straight Line Siding & Construction Inc

20917 NE 72nd Ave
Battle Ground

Streamline Dwellings

3525 N Baldwin St

Strong Construction Inc

6017 A E 18th St


Mt. Tabor. SE Portland.

Sun Glow Inc

2428 SE 105Th Ave

Sunrise Window Svc

18740 Se Cheldelin Rd

Taseca Weatherization

PO Box 2815
Battle Ground

Tasos Construction

112 SE 57th Ave

TCJ Enterprises

5116 NW 179th St

TerraFirma Foundation Systems

761 NE Garden Valley Blvd.

TGL Construction LLC

9608 NE 59th Ave

The Killers

9498 Southwest Barbur Blvd

The SHIR Corporation

9411 NE HWY 99 Ste. 1

Timber Home Improvements, LLC

7500 NE 16th Ave


25252 SW McConnell Rd


6000 NE 88TH ST

True Dream Construction

15908 NE 76th st


1307 NE 95th Ave


7006 NE 47TH AVE

Verde Energy

6899 NE Columbia Blvd


12637 S 265 W Suite 100

Western States Construction

19216 NE 139th ST.
Brush Prairie

Westside Inside

205 SE Spokane St. Suite 300

Whole Home Construction

14305 NE Piper st

Woods Roofing LLC

PO Box 68448

Zilco LLC

2900 SW Cornelius Pass Rd

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