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F
"The service technician was very punctual and did a great job diagnosing my furnace. Although he did not offer to provide space heaters for the weekend, upon calling" the office to request heaters, I was provided with two. After doing research into the warranty on my unit it turned out that my furnace and the part that broke was covered under an enhanced parts and labor warranty from the manufacturer. The company was very misinformed as to what the warranty covered and refused to provide me service under the enhanced warranty even though their website claims they are a factory authorized dealer. Due to the company's ignorance and complete disregard for customer service or doing the right thing, I was obligated to write this review and inform other potential customers to beware.

-Michael P.

A
"Went great did not have heat in our child's room. came promptly and did some of the best work that I have ever seen (I work with contractors" daily). Attention to detail was most important.Mo, and did were some of the hardest workers and fast that I have seen, never sacrificing quality. A plus roofing and Spartan electric came in to assist and also didn't disappoint with the same quality as AA plumbing. You won't be disappointed.

-Andre B.

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Local Articles in Tacoma

Sink and plumbing

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When you need a plumber, especially for an expensive project for which you have time to plan, make sure you hire one who is fully qualified and licensed in your state. A plumber may be an apprentice, a journeyman or a highly qualified master plumber, depending on the level of training and experience.

Follow the rules or risk paying the price – that’s especially true when planning a home improvement project – big or small. You want to be certain all the work being done on your home is up to code. If you don’t, it could cost you.

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Angie's Answers

?

First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.

 

Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.

?

From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

?
It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!
?

You have not said how old your house is, what normal water line life in your area is, whether it is leaking under the foundation or under the yard, etc. Cost depends a great deal on length of run, depth to dig to get below frost line, whether excavation will be through trees or other obstructions or open area, whether ground along route is too steep for a backhoe to work on, etc.

The first thing you really need to figure out is whether this is a spot repair issue, or a total line replacement issue. Your plumber should be able to help with that determination.  Very general rule of thumb - very old line from before 80's, if galvanized pipe, could be at its practical life and be ready for total replacement. Copper line generally last about 50-70 years UNLESS in a corrosive soil environment or if it has groundwater flowing actively past it, then can be 20-30 years. Plastic lines from the 60's to 80's vary a lot - from as little as 10 years to 50 plus dependingon brand. Plastic lines (PVC, HDPE, PE) from the 80's and later are expected to last 50-100 years - most have not failed yet, so no good handle on how long they will last.

An above-ground or under the slab line a plumber will do. Buried line outside he generally subcontracts to an excavator to dig and backfill the line, or asks you to get the excavation done.

 

If section needing replacement is under your floor slab or foundation, then a full replacement can be many thousands of $ depending on how many linear feet, and if interior flooring will have to be replaced or if you are on a bare concrete slab or bringing the new line in above-ground once you get through the foundation. A simple one-spot buried pipe repair (based on acoustic locating and precisely measuring the location of the problem) can be as little as $400 but probably more often $1000 or so - more if poor access like under a slab underneath stairs.

If the runs to be replaced are exposed in a crawl space or basement than it can run as little as $20/LF (probably $400 minimum job cost) to replace.

 

Outside line to the street can run from as little as $10/LF in areas where the pipe is shallow (no annual frost penetration) and in easy digging soil, to $250/LF or more if deeply buried, have to excavate through trees and heavy roots or boulders, steep topography, other utility interferences etc. Generally not more than $50/LF. Commonly, instead of digging up the old line, they select a new semi-parallel route from a good connection point for you existing interior water lines at the foundation (maybe not where it currently comes in, depoending on access) to the street main shutoff valve (called a "key box", taking a route between them that is easiest to get a backhoe into and minimizes destruction of valuable plantings or trees. A number of $50/LF is commonly tossed around as "normal" for this type of job, if exceeding 100 feet or so and digging and access conditions are normal.

If your connection is in the middle of the street rather than along your side in the yard, that can easily add $2-5,000 to the job, as the water utility usually has to do that part, and repair the street afterwards. In a major throughway street, even more because of traffic control, multi-agency permits, etc.

 

As always, find 2-3 responsible, well-recommended (Anglie's List ?) contractors, and then get bids. The route I would go is first go with your regular plumber to locate the leak (probably acoustically, by listening for the leak) and determine the scope of work needed, then if major, go for multiple bids.

 

Plumber reviews in Tacoma

D

Rating
Tech did not explain anything to me, instead just kept giving these huge quotes. I was supposed to replace toilet valves that were not even broken since the malfunctioning inlet valve-pvr may have damaged them- 4 toilets at $300.00 a pop-who has that kind of money?
I have had several plumbing stuff done through the years and this is my worst experience ...More simply getting a quote. It was a complete waste of my time and money. Will never use them again
- kadiyala R.
A

Rating
They were very responsive, punctual on the day of appointment and the tech did an excellent job. Willing to work with me unanticipated additional work. I would definitely use them again. Excellent experience!
- Daniel M.
A

Rating
It went well. He worked quietly and efficiently and did a great job. Price seemed kind of high but then it is always expensive to have work done for you.
- Scott B.
D

Rating
Not good. First of all he said that Angie's list was a crock and he did not want to use the deal that I had purchased. I purchased the $25.00 for $75.00 worth of work. He talked with his company and he did let me use it but he charge me $215.00. I paid the $25.00 he took off $75.00 . The total cost was $290.00. I think that was way to much just ...More to change out a kitchen faucet. I had to have him change the faucet because he put it on wrong with the on and off lever on the left side. He said whoever put it on was wrong but they were not and he did change it. Then he did not have it tighten down when he went out to write up the bill and the faucet was sideways and I had to ask him to fix it. Do not use this deal. Think he just thought he could get away with it since I am a widow. I am sure Router Rooter have better employees but this one was horrible. If you are in the Gastonia, NC area do NOT use this deal.
- Janice J.
A

Rating
I called Roto Rooter at 4:55pm, the 9th plumber in the area I tried. They were the first to actually answer the phone, and even better, they said they could have a plumber to my house within 2 hours. Even better, they called back in 5 minutes and said someone would be at my house within 30 minutes. Hard to beat that!
...More Green was the name of the plumber who actually came. He was fast, professional, polite, and knowledgeable. Fixed two problems in no time at all. Strongly recommend.
- Timothy E.
A

Rating
Great. Arrived within an hour of initial call and drove off within a 1/2 hr after arriving (with job completed).
- Ian E.
D

Rating
We called when we noticed sewage leaking into our basement on a Saturday in mid-August. Ended up scheduling a plumber to come the following week. While I admit our job was somewhat challenging-- there's no access point to our sewer line from our basement, so they had to go in via our catch basin to clear the line as a quick ...More fix. They cemented over a hole in our basement leading to the sewer where the leak was occurring. They said they'd get back to us with an estimate on a more comprehensive fix-- which included digging up our basement floor and adding an access point.
Months went by and we never heard from them. I called back in late October, and their office couldn't find any record of our job. Eventually, the office had the plumber who came to our house, who said he needed to come back with a camera to assess damage in the sewer line before he could give us an estimate. I was leaving on vacation, so I arranged for a friend to meet the plumber so they could camera in and provide an estimate. They showed up, looked around, and did not use camera or provide any written estimate.
After two visits with no estimate and no fix, I've given up on -- another plumber came out tonight and was able to assess the situation and provide an estimate on the spot, able to complete work by the end of this week. I'll take that over waiting another month and chasing down for a job they clearly must not want.
- Margaret S.
A

Rating
My niece had water standing beside the house and had called several plumber out to find and fix. They gave several quotes and guess too the problem. I was visiting and dug it up and found the problem. Called several plumber and all were booked up. Called 's at 5pm and the lady that answered was very pleasant. I asked ...More if it could be repaired tonight. She said wait a moment and very shortly came back that someone could be there between 5:30 and 6:30pm and I said that would be great. called a little before 5:30 that was running a little late. He was here before 6 and done before 7. He took a $100 off for having it already dug out. My niece was so please, she told she had other work to be do and other people in her office were needing plumbing work and ask for his cards to take to work. He was very knowledgeable and already had the parts needed on his van. He was very pleasant.
- Charles N.

Plumbers in Tacoma, WA

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

24/7 Plumbers in Tacoma

7515 Portland Ave
Tacoma

A Advanced Septic

2518 East Valley HWY E
Sumner

A Jill of All Trades LLC

2118 S Ainsworth Ave
Tacoma

A-1 Energy Efficiency Consulting

4215 26th Ave SW
Seattle

AAA REMODELERS

17102 21st Ave. Ct. E.
Spanaway

Aardvark Rooter Inc

3420 C St NE
Auburn

Able Remodeling, Inc.

3915 S 12th St
Tacoma

About Time Enterprise Inc

1528 N Prospect St
Tacoma

Accent Construction and Remodel Corp

1911 SW Campus Dr
Federal Way

Ace Backflow Only

4009 N 25th St
Tacoma

Acqua Plumbing

15508 38th ave east
Tacoma

All About You Construction

1012 N 36th St
Renton

All Degrees Plumbing

PO Box 731341
Puyallup

All Purpose Plumbing

4635 S J St
Tacoma

All Services NW

5324 - 84th St E
Tacoma

ALL-WAYS AIR CONTROL

1515 S CENTER ST
Tacoma

Allreds Mechanical Solutions LLC

17025 124th Avenue SE
Renton

American Building Solutions LLC

1223 S. 80th ST
Tacoma

American Leak Detection - Seattle

PO Box 1371
North Bend

Ames Remodeling

4511 S. J St
Tacoma

Anderson Handyman Services Inc

72 Ira Light St
Steilacoom

At Your Service

4531 S Lucille St
Seattle

At Your Service Plumbing Inc

PO Box 64519
University Place

Atlantic Tile & Granite

7817 S 210th St
Kent

Bath Fitter

6900 220th St SW
Mountlake Terrace

Best Choice Plumbing, inc.

4306 East C Street
Tacoma

Best Plumbing

4129 Stone Way N
Seattle

BIG SKY CONSTRUCTION INC

15916 SE 326TH ST
Auburn

Black Lion Heating & Air Conditioning

11001 118th Place NE
Kirkland

BOB LARSON PLUMBING

4320 128TH ST E
Tacoma

Bob Oates Plumbing, Sewer, & Rooter LLC

600 W Nickerson Street
Seattle

Bobcat Plumbing Co

2102 109th St South
Tacoma

Brocks Building

12315 Vickery Ave E
Tacoma

Brown Industries

1201 1036th Street E.
Tacoma

BUTTON PLUMBING & HEATING, LLC

15027 130TH AVE SE
Renton

Carter Developing

4310 N Orchard St.
Tacoma

Cesar & the Painters

27906 S Pacific Hwy
Federal Way

Chris's Plumbing

1402 auburn way N
Auburn

cjs plumbing llc

1828 112th st e #j

Clean Septic Pumping LLC

PO Box 997
Spanaway

Clear Water Leak Detection Inc

PO Box 692
Black Diamond

Coburn Construction Llc

1938 SW 167TH ST
Seattle

CONTINENTAL PLUMBING

1326 NORPOINT WAY NE
Tacoma

Cooper Services Construction

9204 Warren Dr NW
Gig Harbor

Custom Contracting

821 Dock St
Tacoma

CUTRIGHT SUPPLY

1170 12TH AVE
Longview

D & L CONSTRUCTION

32733 111TH PL SE
Auburn

Day and Night Heating & Cooling

17024 Pacific Ave S
Spanaway

Dirt Pros LLC

6418 Rebecca Ct SE
Auburn

DRAIN AWAY PLUMBING

PO Box 656
Auburn

Drain Pro Plumbing Inc

12219 Military Rd S
Seattle

Estate Building Inc

3507 35st NW
Gig Harbor

Evergreen Sanitation Inc

2910 Hartford Rd
Lake Stevens

Fast Water Heater Company

11715 North Creek Parkway S
Bothell

Ferguson Counter

1824 112th St E
Tacoma

Ferguson Counter

3517 Pacific Hwy E
Tacoma

First Ave Plumbing LLC

14302 1st Ave. East
Tacoma

Floform Countertops

22445 76th Ave S
Kent

FloHawks

10412 John Bananola Way East
Puyallup

Fox Plumbing & Heating

7501 2nd Ave S
Seattle

FRANK & SONS CONSTRUCTION

8204 PORTLAND AVE E
Tacoma

Gary's Pipelining and Drain Cleaning

9558 Greenwood Ave. N.#304
Seattle

Global Plumbing

20216 108th Ave SE
Kent

GreenSun Construction

7625 Atchinson Ct SE
Olympia

Gregg Hoffman Construction Inc.

1000 Towncenter Ne Ste 180
Tacoma

Handy Does It

PO Box 691
Vaughn

Handy Home Services

710 s proctor st
Tacoma

HEMLEY'S SEPTIC TANK CLEANING

9303 54TH AVE NW
Gig Harbor

Henry & Sons Plumbing LLC

PO Box 731768
Puyallup

Holm Handyman Service

11012 Canyon Rd
Puyallup

Home Makeovers Made Simple

2522 N Proctor St
Tacoma

Honey Do Helpers

2724 San Juan St
Coupeville

Honeydew Construction LLC

4015 South K Street
Tacoma

Hunt's Plumbing and Heating

6225 4th St NE
Tacoma

Ideal Carpentry LLC

3906 N Mullen st
Tacoma

J and K Plumbing Inc

34127 183rd Ave SE
Auburn

Jack of All Trades

811 Jones Ave S
Renton

JC Painting & Remodeling

7980 Phillips Rd SE
Port Orchard

JDK Services LLC

5820 South Mullen
Tacoma

Jefco Inc

19845 6th Ave NE
Shoreline

Jim Dandy Sewer & Plumbing

903 N. 128th Street
Seattle

Jorve Roofing

3211 Martin Luther King Jr Way S
Seattle

Keiser Enterprises LLC

PO Box 3323
Lacey

KELLEY HOME SERVICES LLC

2817 Jahn Ave NW
Gig Harbor

Ken Do That

2808 67th Ave w
University Place

Kitchen Design Center Ltd

1109 Sleater Kinney Rd SE
Lacey

Kohler Heating And Air Conditioning

9511 54th Ave NW
Gig Harbor

L G Handyworks

443 E Burgundy Rd
Shelton

LAKEWOOD PLUMBING

5473 STEILACOOM BLVD SW
Lakewood

Lowe's

19393 Tjerne Pl SE
Monroe

Lumpy the Plumber

2315 54th Ave SW
Tumwater

MACDONALD MILLER

7717 DETROIT AVE SW
Seattle

Marv's Backhoe Service

10702 Yakima Ave S
Tacoma

McLendon Home Services

906 Industry Dr
Tukwila

Mehl Homes Inc

10611 SE 291st
Auburn

Mitchel Plumbing Co.

1602 Center St
Tacoma

MM Comfort Systems

18103 NE 68th St Ste C-200
Redmond

Mr Rooter of Seattle

2000 S 116th St
Seattle

Mr. Handyman of Gig Harbor & Tacoma

1711 41st St NW
Gig Harbor

Mr. Handyman of SE Bellevue

13300 SE 30th St
Bellevue

My Ph D Services Inc

4524 S Warner St
Tacoma

My PHD Services Inc

3501 S 38 St. Box 41
Tacoma

Nautilus Backflow Service

7926 N 7th Street
Tacoma

NORDIC SERVICES INC

9618 MIDVALE AVE N
Seattle

North Tacoma Custom

2522 N Proctor St, Suite 132
Tacoma

Northwest Complete Contracting

11610 6th Ave SW
Seattle

NuFlush

5195 Marshall St

NW Plumbing Connection Inc

5408 N 23rd St
Tacoma

Nw Sewer & Drain

PO BOX 55573
Shoreline

On Call Plumbers in Tacoma

6705 S Adams St
Tacoma

Orca Granite & Stone LLC

10324 Canyon Rd E
Puyallup

Pacific Air Systems

12811 Pacific Hwy SW
Lakewood

Pacific Plumbing LLC

11725 SE 192nd Street
Kent

Pacific Water Damage

443 E 61st
Tacoma

Paris Plumbing Inc

11535 15th Ave NE
Seattle

Paul Haugen Construction LLC

8002 58th. Ave. NW
Gig Harbor

Plumber Tacoma

4802 S Pine St #106
Tacoma

Price Busters Plumbing

3212 NE 167th St
Seattle

ProPerth Plumbing, LLC.

6433 South Puget Sound Avenue
Tacoma

Prostyle Plumbing LLC

1612 Markham Ave NE
Tacoma

PUGET SOUND GAS PIPING

13324 Bingham Ave. E
Tacoma

R & S Plumbing, Llc

10040 131st Lane SE
Rainier

RAINIER HANDYMAN SERVICES

536 Spiketon Road
Buckley

RCA Construction & Drain Wizard

1625 East 72nd St 700-209
Tacoma

Repipe Specialists of Washington Inc

100 Andover Park West
Seattle

Rescue Rooter Seattle - 9226

175A Roy Rd SW
Pacific

Retrofit L.L.C

5225 SW 324th Place
Federal Way

RG's Handyman Service

3049 S 224th St
Seattle

Right Way Rooter

1110 Browns Point Blvd
Tacoma

Robbins & Co

818 SW 142nd St
Seattle

Rooter-Man of Washington

PO Box 732098
Puyallup

Roth & Sons Construction, LLC

14411 Pacific Ave S. #26
Tacoma

Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Drain Services

1130 140th Ave NE
Bellevue

Rucker's Plumbing LLC

1105 113th Str. South
Tacoma

Scottco Plumbing

6335 Augusta Place N.
Tacoma

Sears Stores Tacoma Mall

4502 S Steele St
Tacoma

Service Plumber

3201 S Tyler
Tacoma

SITE PREP NW INC

815 N Stadium Way
Tacoma

Smart Home Improvements

2625 LEMONS BEACH RD W
Tacoma

Sound Bulkhead & Sound Rock Products

2244 Marine View Dr
Tacoma

Sound Flow Systems LLC

22530 SE 206th St
Maple Valley

Spartan Rooter & Plumbing Services

760 107th Street South
Tacoma

Spartan Services, Inc

760 107th St S
Tacoma

Sterling Group DKI

926 96th St East
Tacoma

STERNOD ROOTER

PO BOX 1152
Puyallup

T & J's Plumbing Connection LLC

1212 E. 60th St.
Tacoma

Tacoma Home Repairs

5012 S. Thompson Ave
Tacoma

Tacoma Plumbing & Heating Inc

1817 112th St E
Tacoma

The Plumbers

PO Box 476
Olympia

The QM Team

3323 SW 344th St
Federal Way

Today's Interiors & Exteriors

2901 North 15Th Street
Tacoma

Tom Miller Construction

25571 State Rt
Cle Elum

Trugold Construction LLC

10609 Cronins Dr SW
Lakewood

Valley Pump Inc

202 8TH ST SE
Auburn

VanCleave Homes

@gmail
Tacoma

VJs Tile & Stone

417 176th Street S.
Spanaway

Vortex Plumbing Inc

9620 S 242nd Ct
Kent

Waite's Home Repair

9 G Street SE
Auburn

Washington Energy Services

3909 196th St SW
Lynnwood

Washington Marble Works Inc

1016 Zehnder St
Sumner

Washington Plumbing and Heating Inc

12819 SE 38th St
Bellevue

Washington Water Heaters

1800 Richards Rd
Bellevue

Watkins Corp

301 View Rd
Steilacoom

West Coast Plumbing, Pumps & Filtration, LLC

2602 South 38th Street Suite 63
Tacoma

Winners In-C

906 N Sheridan Avenue
Tacoma

Worx Plumbing and Heating, LLC

2041 S 134th ST
Seatac

Yelm Plumbing & Pumps LLC

7225 Pacific Ave. SE
Olympia

Zolas Plumbing

3213 West Wheeler Street
Seattle

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