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A
"He was responsible, respectful and professional. He was able to almost accomplish everything we had hoped that he would be able to do in the day, and will follow" up generously with us for the final small things.

-Miriam B.

A
"The staff was very prompt in returning the calls and scheduled the service within 24-48 hours. Arrived to perform the inspection in time and also arranged a rapid" repair on the spot. The needed re-wiring of sub-panel was completed the same afternoon once the diagnose was done. It is amazing how fast they could get to the spot and resolve issues. Their response after the service was prompt too. Will recommend to others.

-kelly L.

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Local Articles in Suquamish

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Angie's Answers

?

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

?
Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.
?

As I understand it, you are looking at putting in a fan where there is no ceiling electric outlet. Since I am not sure, will try to break out piece by piece, undersanding these wouyld all be lumped into one job (possibly excluding wiring new outlet and switch). I hate to be so general, but access is the key here - if access is easy and there is a suitable light switch in the same room, cost can be at the low end of this range. If assess is poor and you don't want holes knocked in your drywall, then get more expensive real fast.

1) cost of fan typically $125-250 unless high end model

2) remove existing regular 4" box, install supports to joists and new box (ceiling fans need specially supported boxes due to the extra weight and swaying motion of the fans) $50-75

3) tap electric from existing circuit at existing box, upgrade existing light switch box to add one or two more switches (Adjustable for fan speed, 2nd for light, if so equipped), run wiring to ceiling fixture $125-250

4) put up fan, connect, test $75-100

So - total About $250-425 with no box there now, plus cost of fixture. A simple install to replace an existing fan, or install where the ceiling box was wired for a fan, would be only about $75-100.

This all assumes the existing nearby electric circuit can handle the addition of the fan - if not, then wiring cost will go up. It also assumes there is access via open attic or joists to install the wiring. Otherwise, installation cost OK but does NOT include repair to holes in drywall or ceiling to pull wiring.

Note also that an existing ceiling light box would probably NOT fill the bill - code in almost all jurisdictions requires 12 ga wire for fan motors, most household circuits are 14 or 16 gauge, so would need new wire pulled from a circuit with adequate capacity.

Get bids ! I worked on one job where the owner in a high-end house decided to put in fans with fancy candeliers underneath after construction was done - cost almost $3000 to do installation because all the wall and ceilings were finished in a high-end finish, so all wire pulling had to be done remotely - including removing siding to put in pull boxes at changes of direction and fasten conduit to studs. PLAN AHEAD !

 

?

The amperage is the rated power it can handle. Modern houses are generally built with 200 amp panels, and a lot of the newer ones are going 300-350 amps as more and more electronic devices and fancy and high-demand kitchen devices and increased lighting are used in homes.

Both are just as safe - the 200 amp one will just have many more breaker slots, allowing way more circuits, and providing more room for expansion in the future, especially for power-hungry things like shop tools. Each uses only as much electricity as is used in the circuits - the panel itself does not consume any electricity, so no long-term impact there. It is just a circuit connection box where the individual circuits are connected, with circuit protectors (breakers) in line before it connects to the main line to your electric usage meter.

Unless you are real tight on money on this job, I would upgrade to 200 amps capacity - the incremental cost is about $100-200 or so over the 100 amp panel. If your incoming power line cannot handle 200 amps, you could install a 100 amp main breaker to keep the power company happy but put in the 200 amp breaker panel, so in the future a main line upgrade could be done with only a main disconnect breaker upgrade of $100 or so, without having to change anything inside the house.

Having the larger panel, especially if 200 amp capacity all the way from the meter, can be a selling point (or rather, lack of a negative point) to a potential buyer with lots of electronics or who is into shop power tools. It would also facilitate conversion to electric heat / water heating if someone wanted to do that.

?

Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.

?

An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.

 

A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.

 

Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.

Electrician reviews in Suquamish

A

Rating
The work was excellent. and his assistant were on time and professional. The responsiveness to our request for the work required was fantastic. Appointment options were provided to get the work done. made sure that the original work would be done promptly, the next day, by stopping at our house in ...More the afternoon on his way home from work. Had the job done withing an hour. Fantastic!!!
- Michael M.
A

Rating
The original electrician assigned could not come at scheduled time due to a family emergency, but the company called to let us know the situation and offered to send another electrician working in our area at a later time in the same day. We were agreeable.
Electrician arrived at scheduled time, but didn't have a dimmer switch, because he ...More wasn't the original assigned electrician and didn't know what parts were needed. He offered to go their electrical supplier (if they were open, which they were - barely) and obtain the necessary dimmer switch.
Switch was replaced without any issues. He also looked at the bathroom exhaust fan, and said that the heater was actually not working, and there wasn't anything more he could do unless / until I purchased a new fan.
My "price" concern is with the charge for troubleshooting, which is in the neighborhood of $300, even though it seemed to require only about 15 minutes! They seem to have set amounts they charge for certain services, which can be a value, or not, to the homeowner. I ended up paying for the $88 value package (which presumably gave me $200+ value in work) plus another $21 for the service. Considering this included the switch, and he was maybe at my house for a total of an hour, that is probably typical...not any great value.
He also spent a fair amount of time describing other services I could purchase, but there was no high pressure or anything.
All in all, they were reliable, trustworthy and they stand behind their work, just need to get a good understanding of the charges to expect for the work you are having them perform.
- VICTORIA V.
A

Rating
Work was of high quality and was completed promptly without any surprises. Crew worked very closely with the cabinet installer planning ahead each day. They were very attentive and cleaned up the work place each day, no mess was left behind. Everything was explained in detail and our questions/concerns were answered patiently as the project progressed. ...More Price seemed fair and very competitive with other estimates I got for this job. Overall, we were very pleased with the final product and would love to use them again for future projects.
- Nicolae B.
A

Rating
sent out 2 workers to check out why we were experiencing an electrical when in our shower. It was diagnosed that we needed a grounding wire attached to our water line.
- Bob B.
A

Rating
was able to track down the root cause of 4 light switches that were
not working. It was an unusual cause linked to a switch that was
working. It took a lot of checking the electrical system. House wired in
a strange way when built. But, he solved the problem! was quick
to respond ...More and fit us in his schedule. This is the second time we have retained for our needs. Will use him again.
- Barbara F.
A

Rating
Great work - clean, professional, and prompt. They gave an estimate on the phone and it was less expensive than anticipated.
- Dan P.
A

Rating
Upon requesting service, Nick was very quick to respond to my questions and walked me through the pricing for the service. His technicians arrived on time, were willing to explain their work, etc. I did have a wall switch that went to an unknown location, and after some investigating the technician admitted that re-wiring the switch to the light would ...More require a smaller/more nimble technician to navigate the very tight attic space. Overall, however, the rest of the work was completed in a timely manner and to the quality promised. I would call them again for sure.

- Tim S.
A

Rating
was extremely professional and did a great job. It wasn't going to be easy but he worked quickly and efficiently to get it done. We would definitely use him again!
- Kelly D.

Electricians in Suquamish, WA

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

1st Auto Service

1021 Auburn Way S
Auburn

206 Electric

15267 NE 12th ST
Bellevue

A&G Electric INC.

12919 NE 126th PL. STE A
Kirkland

A-1 Energy Efficiency Consulting

4215 26th Ave SW
Seattle

A.M.S. Custom Electric

24442 Madura Dr NE
Kingston

AAA ELECTRIC LLC

PO BOX 944
Poulsbo

AAA Electrical Contractor, Inc.

13303 427th Ave SE
North Bend

AAA Heating & Cooling Essentials

23939 109th Avenue
Kent

Accent Construction and Remodel Corp

1911 SW Campus Dr
Federal Way

ACE Hardware Corporation

9000 Roosevelt Way NE
Seattle

Advanced Automotive

PO Box 987
Stanwood

AFFORDABLE GAS SERVICE

18110 96th Dr SE
Snohomish

Agate Pass Electrical Services

4545 Totten Rd
Poulsbo

Air Cleaning Technology ACT

3138 Northeast 115th ave.
Vancouver

Air Masters Inc

3210 SE Mile Hill Dr
Port Orchard

AJA Construction

343 19th Ave
Seattle

Alderwood Energy Services

P.O. Box 3
Lynnwood

Alexander Technical Resources

1263 Glenwood Ave SE

All Services NW

5324 - 84th St E
Tacoma

ALL TECH SYSTEMS

PO BOX 1393
Marysville

All Weather Heating & Cooling Inc.

302 Kemp Street
Port Angeles

Allred Heating, Cooling & Electric

37816 26th Dr S
Federal Way

ALLTECH ELECTRIC INC

11424 JOVITA BLVD E
Puyallup

ALMAX Manufacturing Corporation

427 7th Avenue South
Kirkland

Alton's Home & Office Repair Specialist

23960 35th Place South
Kent

American Property Solutions LLC

E60 Way to Tipperary
Shelton

Angel Infrastructure

PO Box 462
Arlington

Aqua Quip - Redmond

8005 161st Ave NE
Redmond

ARS Construction

19104 SE 440th St
Enumclaw

Auburn Foreign and Domestic Car

725 Auburn Way N.
Auburn

AUTO MOBILE AUTO & TRUCK RPR

Beacon hill
Seattle

B Squared Electric Co LLC

218 Avenue B Apt 1
Snohomish

B-MORE ELECTRIC

17730 DOUGLAS RD NW
Poulsbo

Bainbridge Island Electric

110 Bjune Drive SE
Bainbridge Island

BECKER BROS CONSTRUCTION

349 NW 49TH ST
Seattle

Bel Air Heating Cooling & Electric Inc

5511 112th Ave E Ste. A
Puyallup

Black Wire Electric

PO Box 4894
South Colby

BlueVolt Electric

Federal Way

Bob's Home Maintenance & Repair

13593 Old Military Rd NE
Poulsbo

Bond Electric Co.

407 North E Street
Tacoma

Brack Electric LLC

1024 Utsalady Road
Camano Island

Brennan Heating & Air Conditioning

4601 S 134th Place
Seattle

Brooks' Comfort Zone

PO BOX 1931
Silverdale

BROTHER'S ELECTRIC AND SOLAR

6019 ALAMAEDA AVE W
University Place

Brown Industries

1201 1036th Street E.
Tacoma

Browns Car Care

16510 106th ave se
Yelm

BTG General Contracting

Veteran Owned
Kirkland

BUDGET WIRING

16228 42ND AVE S
Seattle

C & H SERVICES

23913 Witte Rd Se
Maple Valley

Cannon Construction, Inc

406 Porter Way
Milton

CAR STEREO PLUS

1233 164TH ST SW
Lynnwood

Carbide Construction Services, LLC

6830 NE Bothell Way C451
Kenmore

Carlos The Wood Craftsman

23211 20th Ave S
Des Moines

Carter Developing

4310 N Orchard St.
Tacoma

Cascade Home Renovation and Repair

14128 141st Ave. SE
Snohomish

Chardonnay Homes

923 187th Ave. E.
Lake Tapps

Charles Knauf Electric

3519 S Ash St
Tacoma

CLOVER CREEK ELECTRIC

1413 CENTER ST
Tacoma

CMG Electric

PO Box 66
Auburn

CMG Electric LLC

PO Box 66
Auburn

CMG Installations

9129 Roanoke rd. NE
Bremerton

Comcast Everett

2817 Colby Ave
Everett

COMPVIEW

652 Industry Drive
Seattle

ConnecTecs

879 Rainier Ave N A102
Renton

Construction Expeditors

16915 SE 272nd
Kent

Constructive Changes

4020 Leary Way NW
Seattle

Cooper Services Construction

9204 Warren Dr NW
Gig Harbor

COPPER CREEK ELECTRIC

PO Box 1773
Orting

CRC electric

Olympia

Custom Contracting

821 Dock St
Tacoma

Custom Electrical Contractors Inc

21324 18th street east

CUSTOM FLOOR HEATING

Bellevue
Bellevue

Cutting Edge Contracting

4601 NE 78th st
Vancouver

D & C Electric

5012 S Thompson
Tacoma

Dahl General Construction

PO Box 132
Graham

Dana's Heating and Cooling Inc

2181 Chico Way NW
Bremerton

Davenport Construction Inc.

12611 50th Drive SE
Everett

David Bronson- Realtor

3934 Lemon Rd NE
Olympia

David Getts Design

7 S Bellflower Rd
Bothell

DC Electric Inc

23117 63rd Ave W
Mountlake Terrace

Delean Contracting & Landscaping

11858 SE 236th St
Kent

Divine Protection

PO Box 691
Everett

DMH Electric / KJM Electric Co

521 S. Monroe St.
Seattle

Donisi Construction LLC

720 N 10th St
Seattle

Doug Hazen Handy Guy

5888 NW Littlewood Ln
Silverdale

E R Elite Remodeling LLC

2011 Adams Ave
Everett

Easy Does It Electric Inc

17712 2nd St
Lake Tapps

Echo Falls Construction Services

21806 East Lost Lake Road
Snohomish

eCig n' Vape

3530 Martin Way E
Olympia

eCig n' Vape

1312 NE 45th Street
Seattle

ELECTRONICS SUPPLY CORP

8914 205TH PL SW
Edmonds

Elite Spas Northwest

19809 NE 174th St
Woodinville

Elkay Services LLC

11410 NE 124th St
Kirkland

Emerald Isle Tile LLC

10537 Greenwood Ave N
Seattle

Estate Building Inc

3507 35st NW
Gig Harbor

Experience Northwest

PO Box 58494
Renton

Eylander Electric

3601 Everett Ave
Everett

Fireside Home Solutions

21402 84th Ave S
Kent

FIREWIR-E-LECTRIC

1720 96TH ST S.W
Everett

Forbes Electrical Construction

1502 S Brookside Terrace
Tacoma

Freedom Systems, Inc.

3507 SW Alaska St
Seattle

Fremont Medical & Dental

4464 Fremont Ave N
Seattle

Front Panel Express, LLC

5959 Corson Avenue South,Suite I
Seattle

GALLERY MARINE SVC LLC

717 NE NORTHLAKE WAY
Seattle

GAMBILL'S MOTOR WORKS

32502 BENBOW DR E
Graham

GEORGE'S A TO Z ELECTRIC

1300 S Puget Dr Apt 219
Renton

Global Energy Storage

PO Box 1291
Mercer Isalnd

Global Green Energy Corp

7930 Center St SW
Olympia

Green Roots Electric LLC

2103 Manorwood Dr SE
Puyallup

Green-Built Custom Homes LLC

5125 Highland DR SE
Auburn

H & B Electric LLC

PO Box 221
Battle Ground

Handyman Consulting

5503 215th St SW
Mountlake Terrace

HARBOR BUILERS

5202 CROMWELL DR
Gig Harbor

Hardware World

15600 Redmond Way
Redmond

Hardworking Handyman LLC

2620 Bellevue Way NE
Bellevue

HENDERSON BAY CONSTRUCTION INC

5219 140TH ST CT NW
Gig Harbor

HERTZ ELECTRIC

757 116TH ST S
Tacoma

HID Kit Pros

60 NW Gilman Blvd.
Issaquah

HILL CUSTOM HOMES

6869 KIMBALL DR
Gig Harbor

Hopster Electric

13927 14th pl w

House Mart Ace Hardware

14100 SE Petrovitsky Rd
Renton

Hull Electric and Servicellc

17106 17th Ave Ct E
Spanaway

Iditarepair

3021 SW Bradford Street
Seattle

Integrated Living Solutions

20126 Ballinger Way NE
Shoreline

Integrity Construction LLC

7784 Holly Park Ct
Bremerton

IUEC

972 Stone Brook DR SW
North Bend

ivan & alejandra

10638 254th pl se

J & A Electric and Solar

1615 W Smith St
Kent

J & J Electric LLC

17621 35th Ave E
Tacoma

JAKE RICHARDS CUSTOM HOMES

8554 122ND AVE NE
Kirkland

JOE MYERS CONSTRUCTION

4418 128TH PL SE
Everett

John's Electric

2605 N.E. Fernglen Road
Poulsbo

K9 Clubhouse

12803 195th Place SE
Issaquah

Kettel and co. LLC

2103 summit lake shore rd nw

Keystone Construction & Consultants Inc

5515 Steilacoom Blvd Ste 130
Lakewood

Kilowatt Electric LLC

PO BOX 1069
Shelton

KING ELECTRICAL MFG CO

9131 10th Ave S
Seattle

KLEVEN HOMES INC

PO Box 1625
Gig Harbor

Kolyn Electric

33232 37th Ave SW
Federal Way

Lake Washington Electric and Technologies

620 Kirkland Way Ste 104
Kirkland

Lakes Electric Inc

PO Box 7060
Kent

Lanphear Construction LLC

2635 Lacrosse Way
Shelton

Laucks Electric

34599 Bridge View Dr NE
Kingston

LeAir Climate Control, Inc.

po box 73307
Puyallup

Lee's Audio and Video

704 228Th Ave NE
Sammamish

Lewis Construction Group

PO Box 248
Edmonds

LHS Electrical

19410 HWY 99 Suite A350
Lynnwood

lightman electric group

22416 88th Ave S
Kent

Live Wire Electric LLC

PO Box 3442
Lynnwood

LUCKY ELECTRIC

2914 136TH STREET CT E
Tacoma

MACDONALD MILLER

7717 DETROIT AVE SW
Seattle

Maple Crest Electric

21628 84th Ave
Kent

Marshal Electric, Inc.

70 E Ballycastle Way
Shelton

Mathewson's Automotive

271 Rainier Ave N
Renton

MC Home Inspections

900 Meridan E. Ste #19-182
Milton

MC KINLEY ELECTRIC CO INC

PO BOX 1417
Kingston

MCLENDON HARDWARE INC

440 RAINIER AVE SO
Renton

McMullen Electric

103 17th St NW
Puyallup

MD ELECTRONICS

19910 VIKING AVE
Poulsbo

MD MARINE ELECTRIC

672 E 11TH ST
Tacoma

MERIT ELECTRIC

12201 Cyrus Way Ste 105
Mukilteo

MJO Homes llc.

5723 203rd st sw
Lynnwood

MOBILE ELECTRICAL DISTR

14050 LAKE CITY WAY NE
Seattle

nationwide construction & renovation

1919 196th St SW Unit 4
Lynnwood

NAYCO Construction, LLC

14209 50th Ave SE
Everett

Nemal Electronics

12240 NE 14th Ave

NetCertLabs

6613 South 192nd Place
Kent

New Dimensions Construction

7945 45th Ave S
Seattle

New Green NW Construction

4725 Shilshole Ave.
Seattle

NO LIMITS PAINTING

PO Box 787
Milton

NORDIC SERVICES INC

9618 MIDVALE AVE N
Seattle

North End Repairs

7721 NE 192nd St
Kenmore

Northwest Exteriors LLC

4500 9th Avenue NE Unit #300
Seattle

Northwest Power Services INC

2675 NW Mountain View Road
Silverdale

Norton & Associates

22407 87th ave west

NW Wind & Solar

828 Poplar Place S
Seattle

OLYMPIA ELECTRIC CO INC

PO Box 1579
Olympia

Out of the Box Manufacturing

1600 SW 43rd St Ste 200
Renton

P&R Quality Contractors

12701 47th ave.
Lakewood

Pacific Air Systems Cooling & Heating INC

15405 135th Ave. E.
Puyallup

PCS Services

13726 166 Ave. SE
Rainier

Peninsula Electric Corp

28205 State Hwy 3 NE
Poulsbo

Perfect Solutions & Fitness

P.O. Box 757
Buckley

Phillips Electric Services LLC

820 103rd Dr SE
Lake Stevens

Pinnacle Builders inc

PO BOX 2814
Redmond

PK Electric

7834 SE 32nd St
Mercer Island

Precision Construction Management

9109 steele creek loop
Bremerton

Precision Tile

6401 Hazel Ave SE #B
Auburn

Premier Mechanical And Electric LLC

22118 20th Ave SE
Bothell

PRIME ELECTRIC INC

13301 SE 26TH STREET
Bellevue

Pro-Circuit Audio & Video LLC

27111 167th Place SE
Kent

Prowire Electric

130 105th Ave SE
Bellevue

Puget Sound Electric Company

2661 N Pearl St Suite 398

Pyramid Electric Group

PO BOX 965
Edmonds

Quality Heating Electrical & AC

9960 Silverdale Way #14
Silverdale

R & S Construction

350 S 312th St
Federal Way

R C Electric

21010 7th St Ct E
Lake Tapps

RAM Electric

12981 Cloquallum Rd.
Shelton

RBoyd Professional Services

24003 Fisk RD E
Orting

Reconstruct Remodel LLC

9371 53rd Ave S.
Seattle

Redhawk Group, LLC

950 N. 72nd St
Seattle

RepairPro

10924 Mukilteo Speedway
Mukilteo

Reputable Electric LLC

1317 Central Ave South
Kent

Resicon LLC

19817 Sunnyside Dr N #J304
Shoreline

Residential Electrical Services

19802 62nd Ave S
Kent

RESIDENTIAL WIRING SPECIALIST

3939 S Orchard St
Tacoma

Robbins & Co

818 SW 142nd St
Seattle

Ron's Reasonable Repairs, LLC

3769 NW Highland CT
Silverdale

SAME DAY DOORS

10048 Sand Point Way NE
Seattle

Scalise Renovations

112th & Canyon Road
Puyallup

Scott Delap Construction Inc

3517 95th Pl SE
Everett

Sea-Tac Electric, Inc.

7056 S 220th St
Kent

Seattle Environmental Construction LLC

309 S Cloverdale St
Seattle

Seattle Home Inspector LLC

PO 4212
South Colby

Seattle's Best Residential Repairs LLC

2518 92nd Place SE
Everett

Secure Controls, LLC

P.O. Box 9512
Kent

Select RemodelPro, LLC

PO Box 1950
Milton

SKN Works

1205 125th PL SW
Everett

Smart Home Improvements

2625 LEMONS BEACH RD W
Tacoma

SMY Home Improvement

4510 168th St SW
Lynnwood

Solar Epiphany

4013 47th Ave SW
Seattle

sooscreek remodeling

27317 227th place s.e
Maple Valley

Sound Heating & Air Conditioning Inc

5526 184th St E
Puyallup

Sound Renovation, Inc

16541 Redmond Way Ste #284
Redmond

Sparkies Electrical

Lake Stevens

Sparkll

7519 18TH AVE NE
Seattle

Sparx Electric LLC

9905 NE 117th Ave

Stan's Electric Inc

4500 Weyers SW Lane
Port Orchard

Stricker Electric LLC

PO Box 930
Graham

Sun Spaces

9019 Bothell Way NE
Bothell

Sunny Electric LLC

6482 NE Fir St
Suquamish

Sunrise Construction (WA) LLC.

12322 Highway 99
Everett

Sunset Air Inc

5210 Lacey Blvd SE
Lacey

Superior Engineering Services

14900 Interurban Ave S
Tukwila

Synergy electric + technology

3012 37th St. NW
Gig Harbor

T-Jack Construction, LLC

PO Box 886
Auburn

Tath Hossfeld Designs

5701 6th Ave S
Seattle

THE CORRECT CONNECTION

12021 2nd Ave
Seattle

The Electric Works

3310 S Union Ave
Tacoma

The Integrated Group, Inc.

8259 122nd Ave NE
Kirkland

The original Mr fix it

4810 pt fosdick dr nw PMB 413
Gig Harbor

Thompson Electric

22497 Big Valley Rd NE
Poulsbo

Town Electric

PO Box 7473
Tacoma

TR Electric

508 123rd Ave NE
Bellevue

Trinity Gate and Door

8225 140th Ave NE
Redmond

True Electric, LLC

Federal Way

Turner Home Improvement

9116 15th Ave NE
Seattle

Ultrarock Builders

22741 10th Ave
Seattle

UNITY ELECTRIC LLP

20306 15th Ave NE
Shoreline

Value Glass

24473 Johnson Road NW
Poulsbo

VanCleave Homes

@gmail
Tacoma

VECA Electric Co. Inc.

7000 Werner Road
Bremerton

WA Remodeling Inc

12823 Lost Lake Rd
Snohomish

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

Washington Electrician Service llc

6405 Isaac Ave SE
Auburn

Washington Energy Services

3909 196th St SW
Lynnwood

Watson Contracting LLC

PO Box 862
Monroe

Will Zimmer Construction

5717 53rd Ave NW
Gig Harbor

Xela Construction

4602 148th Ave NE
Redmond

Your Home Management

20003 Fremont Ave N
Seattle

Your Home Management

20003 Fremont Ave N

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