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A
"We just bought a new condo inside the loop and after 4 months we noticed that one of the floors had excessive slope in a specific part of the home, so much that" the doors wouldn't close. We had Mr.
come and do the inspection and was able to isolate the problem to a support beam that is starting to sag. We contacted the builder and are currently trying to have them fix the problem. Mr
was extremely knowledgeable, helpful, professional and even provided us with recommendations on how to deal with the builder even after he finished the job.

-Abigail M.

A
"It went well. Ed was professional and punctual. He was able to look at my house within a week of calling. His written report was done a few days after viewing my house.

-Ashlee F.

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Local Articles in Shoreline

Have a foundation crack? Consult a structural engineer

Are you worried about a crack in your home's foundation. A structural engineer can examine the crack and determine if your house is safe or hazardous to live in.

Structural Engineers

Your home's ability to withstand the forces of nature and gravity depend on good structural engineering. Building room additions, correcting foundations and repairing structural damage are all projects that call for a structural engineer's expertise.

Interior remodeling project, in progress.
Remodeling - General, Structural Engineering

Dear Angie: How much should it cost to remove a wall? We want to take out about 9.5 feet of a wall that runs from an exterior wall of the house to an interior wall. – Jenny H., Tampa, Florida

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Contractors say homeowners with this trait are the most satisfied with home improvement projects.

earthquake retrofit
Remodeling - General, Structural Engineering

Earthquakes can strike out of nowhere and cause major damage to your home. Consider these tips to protect your home from earthquake damage.

bowed interior block foundation wall
Structural Engineering

Does your home have horizontal cracks in its concrete block foundation? Check out these common causes and repairs for horizontal foundation cracks from a highly rated structural engineer.

Angie's Answers

?

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

?

There is NO such thing as an average cost !

 

You are going to be required to have a building permit and the Building Comissioner

or Senior Permit Official of your local permit office will issue a determination as to whether you will be required to have a Steel Bearing Beam , a Laminated Bearing Beam or some other Beam to support weight of the structure you want to ammend . You  may also be required to install Bearing support posts footings,  at either end of the beam as well. Much will depend as to what is over  and under the space that you wish to span .The official may require you to retain an Architectual Engineer to perform a Load study and computations and require you to  comply with his recomendations .

 

 Until you know what is required by the Permitting Office , Then and only then will you be able to determine the true costs .

 

The fact that you have existing baseboard heat , and we know NOT if it is electric or radiant baseboard heat will complicate the issue as well the existing electrical outlets which may need to be sunken into the floor in order to maintain the electrical circuitry as it exists.

 

 Past experience in these matters , indicate possible costs to range from  $4000.00 to  as much as  $8k -$10,000.00 . I realise that these cost ranges are probably NOT what you want or expect , but There are too many unknowns to attempt a closer cost expectation or range of expenses !

?

Architect first - for around $1000 typically you will get site consultation, a few sketches showing what you said you wanted, and a preliminary (by the book) cost estimate - that you can use to figure if your budget or scope of work needs major adjustment. Then, if you go ahead, typically about 10-20% of total project cost for complete plans and specs (including above cost), depending on complexity and level of interior design detail, and if construction inspection services are included.

 


 
 
Generally, nothing is free with an architect - unlike a contractor where a bit of consultation and a rough estimate is a lead-in to the actual work he hopes to get (the construction/repair) and part of his bidding cost, an architect (and engineer) makes his living giving advice and consultation and developing designs and cost estimates - so giving it away for free is sort of like a dentist doing sample fillings for free. Some will come to your house to discuss your concepts for 15-20 minutes for free, basically to see if they want to take you on as a client or feel your job is the type or size they want, but you should expect little or nothing in the way of a design or cost estimate for free - the most you might get would be an opinion on whether it sounds, off the cuff, like your budget is roughly in line with your desired scope of the project.
 
 
On more complex or up-scale remodels, it is not unusual to contact several architecture firms and request proposals - where they basically come see the site, then give you a sketch or few or more common today, computer-generated altered photos of your place, showing conceptually what they can do for you, then you choose the one you like the most and go with that one for final design. Typically $500-1000 range fee (each) to get that done for small jobs, larger jobs will typically be no charge but that assumes probably $25-50,000 plus anticipated fees if they get the job.
 
 
Bear in mind in the latter scenario you cannot pick and choose betweenthe best parts of each proposal - the architect owns the design and it is copyrighted, so while you can choose bui9lding elements (dormers, bay windows, etc) from any of the proposals, specific design or color combinations are copyrighted by the proposer.
The Search the List category is Architects and Building Design.
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?
The key is to have drainage away from the house, and not introduce water to the foundation unnecessarily. If you can slope the existing backfill soil from the foundation away from the house at least 1/2 inch to 1 inch in the 2 foot space to the walk and pack it down, then putting a ground cover on it will not hurt - it is the relatively impervious layer sloping away from the house you want. If you use rocks I would underlay them with some 6 mil or thicker black plastic sheeting (available in small rolls at home supply stores and lumber yards). If planting, the same would be nice if the plants you choose spread laterally like Epimedium, so they will grow in just a fewe inches of topsoil over the plastic. Otherwise, tamp down the dirt to make it a hard, draining surface (at least when it rains heavily) before topsoiling and planting. Keep a slope on the topsoil too, and avoid overwatering. Do not plant anythig with highly invasive, tenacious or deep burrowing roots like bushes, ivy, or trees near the house, as the roots will penetrate the waterproof barrier on the outside of the foundation, and then you might start getting leaks. The roots can even penetrate the concrete block joints and start breaking up the foundation. For this reason, annual flowers, shallow-root ground covers, bulb plants and rock gardens are far better within 3 feet or so of the foundation than larger plants or intensive gardening.
?

Structural Engineering reviews in Shoreline

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Rating
Shoreline Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
arrived on time and was very professional. It did not take him long to determine that one wall was not load bearing and one wall was. He climbed in the attic looking at the structure in order to determine this. He followed up the next day to let us know what size beam that we would need in order to remove a 7 foot portion of the load bearing wall. As it turned out, we will need less of a support replacement than expected.
We feel relieved knowing that a professional structural engineer has given us such great news on our project. Would definitely recommend him to others.
- Kathleen C.
A

Rating
It went very, very well.
Shoreline Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
is a very personable, intelligent guy and he really understood our vision for the house and made us feel secure about purchasing it. He spent about 2 hours with us discussing our plans for the house, including moving walls and renovating. He also said that once we got to taking the walls apart to send him pictures and he would help us determine if a wall was structural or not. A year and a half later, we were finally ready and I sent him photos on a whim to see if he would still talk to us about it and was pleasantly surprised that he had not been kidding. He called me back the next day and spent a half hour on the phone with me discussing the photos I'd sent and our current plans. He was so kind and helpful and we feel much better forging ahead with our project! I know that I will definitely be recommending him to any of our friends who are going to be buying a home or doing any potentially structural remodeling!
- Jonathon H.
A

Rating
The engineer arrived a few minutes before I did and got to work right away measuring elevations, primarily inside the house. He gave me a preliminary report after about 45 minutes. I may be a little swayed by the fact that it was good news, but I was impressed with their punctuality and ease of scheduling. They are clearly a better choice than having a foundation repair company evaluate your foundation. He was surprised that I didn't need 18 piers like many houses the age of mine. Apparently the previous owner maintained the foundation sprinkling system well.
- John W.
A

Rating
Shoreline Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
came out and spent 1-1/2 hours examining the foundation. He then stepped us through exactly what had happened and why. He then supplied a full written report and explanation to us within a week. This was very helpful in our selection of a foundation company.
- Donald A.
A

Rating
Shoreline Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
was great--
Shoreline Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
up plans to show what needed, done, offered recommendations as to types of repairs and what needed done also to prevent further issues. Very personable and trustworthy
- Thomas R.
A

Rating
Shoreline Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
was prompt and friendly, he was able to explain several items by looking at the walls. He recommended putting an additional beam in for added support of one of the bowing walls.
- Patrick H.
A

Rating
Shoreline Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
, PE made the site visit on behalf of
Shoreline Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
. He was professional and easy to work with. I felt that he listened, asked the right questions and made a thorough inspection. His report was excellent and hit on some points I had missed. If I need anything further, I'll call
Shoreline Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
again....More /> I am having difficulty with my builder who will not repair problem areas or even respond to my calls and messages. I am gathering documentation for my attorney and needed a structural engineer's evaluation. This was exactly what I needed.
I wasn't sure how to select since there was no available category so sent a query to Angie's List. They gave me several names and I selected
Shoreline Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
. Lucky choice for me. I didn't realize I could go in blind and get help and some basic direction. So I got two positives out of this.
- Suzanne P.
A

Rating
First appointment time was about 10 days out, fine for this service. When they had a cancellation we were contacted and offered the new appointment time. A
Shoreline Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
/
Shoreline Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
for both of us.
Shoreline Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
arrived on time and took about 2 hours to make measurements and inspect the home.
Explained clearly and made recommendations that were not invasive.
- George P.

All Structural Engineers in Shoreline, WA

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

Armor Custom Buildings

1401 Marvin Rd NE, Ste 307 PMB 451
Olympia

Aspirant Consulting Group. Inc.

33530 1st Way S
Federal Way

BARN PROS INC

14567 169TH DR SE
Monroe

Bogman Construction Services

2400 NW 80th St
Seattle

CARY KOPCZYNSKI & CO

10500 NE 8TH ST
Bellevue

Certified Building Design Inc

4848 Pacific Ave
Tacoma

Champion Architecture

3802 COLBY AVE
Everett

COLLONS & SMITH STRUCTURAL

485 FRONT ST N
Issaquah

D B Davis LLC

11014 19th Avenue SE,
Everett

D2 Design & Construction

4742 42nd Ave SW
Seattle

D2 Design & Construction

4742 42nd Ave SW
Seattle

Design Scales

3600 East Marginal Way S
Seattle

DesignWorks NW, LLC

6523 California Ave SW
Seattle

DIBBLE ENGINEERS INC

1029 Market St
Kirkland

E R Elite Remodeling LLC

2011 ADAMS AVE
Everett

Eagle Log Cabins & Timber Frame Homes

19333 1st Ave NW
Shoreline

Ellisport Engineering, Inc.

20501 81st Ave SW
Vashon

Erein Construction Services

13703 NE 83rd St
Redmond

ESG Design

12540 202nd Place SE
Issaquah

Fossatti Pawlak Structural Engineers

1735 Westlake Avenue N #205
Seattle

Halas Engineering

11711 8th Ave NW
Seattle

High Standard Company

33212 124th Street Southeast
Sultan

HomeBridge Builders

18926 203rd Ave NE
Woodinville

Honorable Mention Construction

45119 284th Ave SE
Enumclaw

HWA GEO SCIENCES INC

21312 30th Dr SE Ste 110
Bothell

IUEC

972 Stone Brook DR SW
North Bend

JAKE RICHARDS CUSTOM HOMES

8554 122ND AVE NE
Kirkland

JB Sandblasters Inc.

6105 192nd St NE #1
Arlington

JC Enterprises Construction Services

13500 Bel-Red Road
Bellevue

Marchriss Engineering Inc

513 Bay St 101
Port Orchard

Matvey Construction

3041 68th Ave. SE
Mercer Island

MC Home Inspections

900 Meridan E. Ste #19-182
Milton

MMC Engineering

12821 49th Dr SE
Everett

NELSON CONSULTING ENGINEERING

19221 58TH AVE NE
Kenmore

QUIRK

943 22nd Ave
Seattle

Restorco

Everett

Rgbjr Design

1507 Jones Ave NE
Renton

Robbins & Co

818 SW 142nd St
Seattle

Ryner Homes

Snohomish

SABCO CONSULTING ENGINEERS INC

11322 34th Dr SE
Everett

Saunders Construction Services LLC

5511 NE 70th St
Seattle

Seattle Welding

735 S Monroe
Seattle

SITTS & HILL ENGINEERS

4815 Center St
Tacoma

Solutionz Inc. Demolition

1016 Wildwood St
Sultan

STRUCTURAL DESIGN ASSOCIATES

2802 Rockefeller Ave
Everett

Sturdy Structures Inc.

7532 18th Ave NE
Seattle

SWENSON SAY FAGET

2124 3RD AVE
Seattle

Tom Miller Construction

25571 State Rt
Cle Elum

VanCleave Homes

@gmail
Tacoma

WINDWARD CONTRACTING

2837 21ST AVE W
Seattle

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