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B
"That service was fine. There was some confusion over the price. We did have to pay an additional fee of $60.00. He quoted my husband that over the phone, but when" the workers got here they said there would not be an additional $60.00. In the end we did have to pay that.

-DEBORAH O.

A
"I've been using
for snowplowing for several years. They are always dependable. I have never had a problem with any lawn damage. They" provide markers along the driveway. I have called and asked for snowbanks to be pushed back and they have always responded. Pricing is very fair.

-Karen A.

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Local Articles in Seabeck

backyard landscape with economy mulch

Mulch and Topsoil

Mulch can be a lot of different things, but at its core it exists as a material that is applied to landscaping, walking paths and flower beds for aesthetic purposes, to suppress weed growth, retain moisture and supply nutrients to soil through decay. Topsoil is the nutrient-rich, uppermost layer of soil that is ideal for gardening and planting.

Dark mulch by deck
Mulch & Topsoil

Adding mulch to your landscape design plan can help plants grow, but how much does mulch cost? Should you buy mulch by the yard or the bag? Read to find out.

You should check your mulch for compaction about once a month, says McWilliams. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Robert P. of Boston)
Mulch & Topsoil, Landscaping

Before you put down fresh mulch around your plants, there are a few steps to take. One highly rated provider shares 10 steps to prepare for fresh mulch.

pros and cons of rubber mulch
Mulch & Topsoil

Dear Angie: I recently put down recycled rubber as mulch for my front flower bed. How reliable and sturdy is the rubber mulch compared to wood chips?

Landscapers mulch to moderate soil temperature, conserve moisture, suppress weeds and to add organic matter to the soil as the shredded bark breaks down.
Mulch & Topsoil

Looking to add some mulch to your landscaping? Highly rated mulch pros from across the country talk about the different types of mulch.

Angie's Answers

?
I don't care about lawns--I planted mine in clover and don't have to mow it. When I do need to mow I use a rotary Fiskars mower, which is great--or a scythe. That's right--a scythe (the European type, which is smaller, and it's very good exercise). Gas-powered mowers, chemical fertilizers and weed killers--all nasty stuff that gets into everyone's air, soil, and water. I'm sure my neighbor doesn't like my wildflowers, semi-wild pockets of fruit bushes, and unmown areas and yes, dandelions (I have 10 acres) but that's too bad. It's better habitat for wildlife, especially the pollinators on which our food supply depends. I think this obsession with the Great American Lawn is a waste of time and resources. Plant some food instead.


?

One of the more difficult issues facing you will be making sure you compare apples 'n apples while understanding the differences between apples 'n oranges.

Some things common to all:

How far from your (water) meter pit to the home?

Do you know what sort of water pressure you have?

Those two questions sortta drive the rest.  How many sprinklers you have is a piece of the puzzle but it is lower on the issues list than how much water pressure and gallons per minute of flow (gpm) you have.  Knowing the water pressure and gpm coming to the house is important because it is the info divided by the flow rate of the heads to tell you how many you can run at a time.

 That, plus the number of heads it takes to cover your yard will let them decide on how many zones to cut the yard into (each zone is X number of heads that run at the same time).

Will the different estimates be for systems that are all parts from a single manufaturer or will it be a collection of brands?  Some will tell you that the parts (controller, back-flow, heads and even specific heads) are better from different manufacturers while others will tell you that all from a single manufacturer will give you an optimized system.

And, are the contractors equally certified?  Not only education and experience but certifications from the various manufacturers who's parts they want to use.  And, will their installations be the same?  Will they open trenches all around your yard and be a week getting the stuff layed, connected and back-filled?  Or, will they pull the flexible pipe and be in 'n out in one day with water flowing to cover their intrussion before they leave that day?

Will your system need to be blown out with pressurized air at the end of the season to avoid winter freeze and bursts or will it drain automagically?

I know, I took your simple question and made it hard.

When I bought my system about 9 years ago, I had a variety of estimates and the differences sortta fell into the mess I listed above.  The low estimate was a person who seemed to be from the "get it in the ground and fix it later" school.

The highest estimate was from someone who seemed more concerned about my yard and the final result than I was.  The low person was using parts 'n pieces from a variety of manufacturers.  The high person was certified by the company that made all the parts he was wanting to use and he carried a fairly high rating from them for his past performance..  He would vary for me if I wanted but he had sound reasons from the controller to each of the heads as to why he preferred his "brand".

It doesn't look like you are a member of Angie's List.  Given the size of the investment you are looking at, this might be a great time to join and see how others in your community have rated the contractors you are considering or if there is one you should add to your list. 

My yard is between 12 and 15,000 square feet less the house, deck, two mini-barns and it is interrupted with a number of blocking (blocks the stream of water) evergreens and planting beds.

The low estimate I had was about $2,500 and would take three days to put in from the time they began to trench.  I don't recall how many heads he wanted to put in but if it was off, he'd be able to put another anyplace and tie it to the nearest zone to give me good coverage.  Uh, this was the get it in the ground 'n adjust later person.

The high estimate I had was around $4,500.  This proposal was for seven active zones each having 5 to 7 heads.  There was enough capacity (extra zone controllers and space within the system controller) built in to add drip irrigation at a later date for the planting beds without having to replace anything.  He drew the entire yard and gave me a copy with the heads marked showing the "throw" of each and the overlap he built in to avoid any missed areas.  And, they wanted to arrive in the morning and leave that evening with the system watering to cover their tracks throughout the yard.  One day and they would not leave until it was working as advertised!

I took the high estimate.  I have a neighbor who bought from the other folks.  Both of us are happy.  He is really happy because each time he calls his company for adjustments or corrections (yep, they got it in the ground and are still putzing with it) they are out within the week, they are really easy to do business with and their service calls' costs haven't gone up a whole bunch.

Sorry, you can't look at the price and divide by X number of heads and have a fair comparison.

?

1) IF you are talking the root crown - the portion where it is not one solid truck or "bole", but still a solid or near-solid mass of roots coming off the base of the trunk, then that has to come out on way or another. Typically, once you get beyond about a 3 foot circle then you are in the radial portion of the roots where they spread out laterally, and are a foot or more apart, and new roots can grow in that area fro the new tree OK. Of course, be prepared to have to trim some volunteers so the old tree can't come back, and be sure to fertilize the new tree per recommendations because the old roots will still be trying to extract water and food from the soil to support the tree that they do not yet realize is gone. Do NOT put stump killer or poison in the old tree - will kill new one too.

2) The proper commercial way to do this is to have the entire root crown and larger roots removed with a stump grinder - looks like this -

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/build-yourself/117273d1230307978-stump-grinder-questions-stumpgrinderred.jpg

You need a tree service that can grind down at least two feet below ground level and remove the root crown and larger root segments. If you hve large roots running laterally quite a ways, he can grind them up too - ditto to "trippers" sticking up above ground. Just be sure to have it clear (spray painted) upfront how far he is going for what he quoted - typically about $150 for tree up to 1-2 feet in diameter, up to $500 for a massive sycamore or walnut or cottonwood or redwood with 6 foot diameter crown. While you can rent stump grinders at tooll rental places, I REALLY do not recommend it - the rental ones you can afford to rent for one use are pretty light duty, and they can chew a person up in no time flat if you lose control when it snags in the wood or hits a rock.

3) Another way is to go out to where the massive roots taper off to something you can reasonable cut - say 4-6 inches in diameter, and cut them all in a circle around the stump, then with a come-along or CAREFULLY (not more than a few hundred pounds) with a vehicle with a trailer hitch, put a steady pull on a good rope or strap or chain in a shallow notch cut around the top of the stump (so it does not pop off easy), then while it is being rotated up out of the ground walk around and cut any root you see still attached or trying to lift out of the ground. This works much better if the stump is left about 4-6 feet high so you get some real leverage on it with the pull, but if already cut down short run chain or strap over the top of it and around a large root on the far side of the stump. I use a Sawzall with foot long coarse tooth wood cutting blade for this - goes through roots really fast, and blade is only $1 or so apiece so ruining one or two hitting rocks is no big thing, and also reaches in under the stump better and safer than an axe. I helped a neighbor take out a back yard full of birches this way - took us about half a day to remove about 15 trees with about 6 foot diameter circle of crown and roots, leaving holes about 1-2 feet deep where each tree was. Remember this - whichever way you use to take it out, you will need maybe 1-5 wheelbarrow loads of good growth medium to replace the divot. 

4) Cheaper route - cut off flush with ground level (or leave some stickup as a planter or stool or feeder base or whatever), and plant new tree at least 4 feet away from old crown, in a spot between the old roots.

?
'Reasonable' is one of those words that means wildly divergent things to different people.  Check with your local high school to see if they have  any sort of agricultural program.  If yes, perhaps someone in that program could help you.  Being a landscaper myself, I must say it sounds like you want something that is - first and foremost - cheap.   This is NOT the best way to look for any service.  You would be better served looking for 'competant' than with 'cheap'.  The nicer you want your flowerbed to look, the more important it is to find someone who REALLY knows what they are doing.

Mulch Delivering reviews in Seabeck

A

Rating
Seabeck Landscaping Mulch Provider Name Locked
came out for a discussion of the work and future work.
Sketched out a plan, recommended timing, provided competitive quote.
Did work on time with quality results. Explained care of new sod.
Stopped by the next day to make sure everything was satisfactory and answered any questions.
- Gene G.
A

Rating
They were extremely prompted in arriving at the scheduled time and managed to dump and grade the gravel to our satisfaction without a lot of direction. They were very pleasant on phone and telling us best solution for our situation and driver was very nice as well. Will definitely use them again'
- Ron R.
N

Rating
Very well priced. Extremely respectful and helpful. Very professional billing and communication. He "loves his job" and it shows. Excellent work!
- Susan N D.
A

Rating
Seabeck Landscaping Mulch Provider Name Locked
Young coordinated the efforts of three companies and personally directed the building of the walls and corresponding landscaping. With over 20 years experience. He supervised and kept the project on schedule. Very professional and complete satisfaction.
- Joe F.
B

Rating
It was a good experience. They did what they said they’d do. They sent 4-5 workers who worked quickly, which I liked. I hired them to trim a few branches, pull a few weeds, along with a few other landscaping chores. I have 8 acres and they completed everything that was on my list.
- joe M.
A

Rating
Contacted
Seabeck Landscaping Mulch Provider Name Locked
via Angie's List, he called within 24 hours and was able to come out the next day to provide an estimate for mulch. Being a holiday, I didn't expect him and his crew to say they has availability to perform the job the same day. After providing a fair quote,
Seabeck Landscaping Mulch Provider Name Locked
and team did the job right then and there. Great service and worth the cost, very professional and straight forward with estimate. I will use his service again.
- Kenneth B.
A

Rating
The service went pretty well. Three or four guys were out and completed the job in an hour or two. They were very quick and efficient. We really liked that they could squeeze us in so we did not have to wait long to have the job done. They were punctual and their pricing was fair.
- Jonathan G.
A

Rating
The workers worked hard, even went beyond my expectations by edging along the sidewalk and asking to level the sewer breathing pipes which made them flush with the land instead of sticking up. The grass grew thickly and looks great!
- Lynne D.

All Landscaping Mulch in Seabeck, WA

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A 1 Rockey Landscaping

16247 NE 51st St
Redmond

A to Z Stump & Tree Inc

13933 184th Avenue NE
Woodinville

A-1 Energy Efficiency Consulting

4215 26th Ave SW
Seattle

Adam Gorski Landscapes Inc

PO Box 1891
North Bend

ALL SEED HYDROMULCH

PO BOX 2229
Renton

Alpine Nurery

17518 79th Ave. E
Puyallup

Baker Landscaping LLC

327 Pinewood DR NE
Bremerton

Ben Davis Trucking & Excavating

2 Bridlewood Cir
Kirkland

Bill McTurnal Enterprises

PO Box 12048
Olympia

Blacklotus Landscaping LLC

803 Dwight St
Port Orchard

Blackstone Landscapes

4304 40th ave nw
Gig Harbor

BLUE SKY LANDSCAPE

1124 VALLEY AVE NW
Puyallup

Brent Nuckols Construction Inc

20811 Kaster Rd NW
Poulsbo

Cahaba Scapes

2130 11th avenue north

CD Excavating

6010 182 Aveenue E
Bonney Lake

Classic Grounds Care LLC

P.O. BOX 844
Silverdale

Classic Nursery & Landscape Co.

16215 140th PL NE
Woodinville

CLEARVIEW NURSERY & STONE

16918 STATE RTE 9 SE
Snohomish

CME, Inc.

1266 Bay Loop SW
Olympia

COOLEEN GARDENS

2232 NE Sylvan Way
Bremerton

Dan DiZazzo Landscape Architecture

6523 California Ave. SW
Seattle

Dansons Landscaping Inc.

PO Box 159
Silverdale

Falling Water Designs

17516 Washington 203
Monroe

Forrest & Forrest Construction Services

9353 Skylark Ct
Joint Base Lewis Mcchord

GARDENING PLUS

1800 S HANFORD ST
Seattle

Goller Grade & Gravel LLC

350 North Beach Dr
Port Ludlow

Gracey Landscape & Hydroseeding

28154 State Highway 104 NE
Kingston

Green Tech Excavation

9812 Coral Dr. SW
Lakewood

Handy Randy

25916 Sumner Buckley Hwy E
Buckley

Hernandez Landscaping

P.O. Box 2634
Belfair

HiGrade Asphalt Construction and Sealcoating

900 Meridian Avenue East
Milton

Honey Do Helpers

2724 San Juan St
Coupeville

Hubbard's Landscape Services

PO Box 2075
Port Orchard

JACKALYN LANDSCAPING SERVICES

18520 228TH AVE
Woodinville

JGC Enterprises, LLC

PO Box 1028
Seabeck

KLEVEN HOMES INC

PO Box 1625
Gig Harbor

Kushlan

2185 SE Tiburon Ct
Port Orchard

LaBouff Landscape

7433 Mazama ST SW
Olympia

Mattson Construction

PO Box 1329
Suquamish

MCLENDON HARDWARE INC

440 RAINIER AVE SO
Renton

Mecklenburg Construction LLC

P.O.Box 172
Mckenna

Moore's Works

9449 NE Midway Avenue
Indianola

Native Root Designs

5035 NE Lamms Ln
Poulsbo

Natures Caretaker Inc

POB 536
Puyallup

NEW DIMENSION LAWN & LANDSCAPE

8504 CANYON RD E
Puyallup

NGC SERVICES

2401 N. Cedat
Tacoma

NGC Services

2401 N Cedar St
Tacoma

North County Lawn Care

PO Box 309
Custer

OLYMPIC ROCKERIES & CONSTRUCTION

7212 Renton Issaquah Road SE
Issaquah

Pacific Land Care Group

7124 State Hwy 3 SW
Bremerton

Pacific Northwest Landscape Management

4229 Sunnyslope RdSw
Port Orchard

PALMER COKING COAL CO

31407 HWY 169
Black Diamond

Perfect Touch Landscape & Lawn

12414 Hwy 99
Everett

Randles Landscape & Design

321 NE Valleyside Ln
Tahuya

Sawdust Supply Co., Inc.

6314 7th Ave S
Seattle

Shenandoah Company

29641 196th Ave SE
Kent

Sky Nursery

18528 Aurora Ave N
Seattle

Sterling Development Partners, Inc

3965 Bethel Road SE
Port Orchard

T-Jack Construction, LLC

PO Box 886
Auburn

TERRAZZO & STONE SUPPLY

15303 SMOKEY POINT BLVD
Marysville

Terrazzo & Stone Supply Company

13162 SE 32nd St
Bellevue

Terry Ellis Landscaping Service

507 102nd St. Dr. Southeast
Lake Stevens

The Brush Monster, Inc

P O Box 934
Duvall

THE MUSIC TRADER

23916 SE KENT KANGLEY RD
Maple Valley

Timberline Services Inc

PO Box 304
Wilkeson

tmh excavation

PO Box 2037
Allyn

Touchstone Landscape Management

PO Box 2494
Gig Harbor

TruGreen

402 Valley Ave NW
Puyallup

VERN'S ORGANIC TOPSOIL & ROCK

22622 BOND RD NE
Poulsbo

VERNS TOPSOIL AND BARK

22622 BOND RD NE
Poulsbo

Walt's Organic Fertilizer Co

1528 NW Leary Way
Seattle

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