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A
"Initially I called a drain pipe contractor. At the time he was dealing with a heavy backlog of work. But he recommended that I call
because" he thought they might be able to do a quick relatively inexpensive diagnosis of the problem. So that is what I did.
sent their technician,
, out within a couple of hours. He was able to check nearly the entire network with his camera. He determined that there was no blockage of the drain lines, but the route from the backed-up drain (which carries most of the water) is by far the longest and least streamlined from a flow standpoint. That is very useful information. It tells me I need to reroute the backed-up line and probably increase its diameter.

-Wayne M.

A
"The office person was very nice and accommodating. The fit me in the same day I called which I really appreciated. The service person was prompt, professional and" completed the work quickly and efficiently. I was very pleased with the service and will use them again when needed,.

-Wilson D.

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Angie's Answers

?

First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.

 

Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.

?

From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

?
It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!
?

Well , you've certainly started a debate that will endure forever , but personally , having worked with both products , PEX is a better product . Now granted , the 1st time i used it

I was not impressed , cause it leaked.......NOT because the product was at fault, it was because I did not understand how to use the product !

The trick to using Pex , is to make certain that the fittings seat, they MUST be pushed together with force, and if you do not push with force to get the seat to seal, it leaks .

Therefore , when using PEX , you have constantly to be aware of leaving room to make your connections -Properly !

The beauty of PEX is that it bends , it is flexible and decreases the labor factor ,although the connection costs are often 100-300 % higher than copper , but again , it can cut labor costs in half  and it is safer to work with,  NO FLAMEs!

?
FYI: CPVC and PEX are two different materials and installed differently.  PEX is not intended to be glued but instead has special crimp fittings.  PEX is a brand name of one product that is manufactured slightly differently by others as well so it is important that the same brand fittings are used to match the pipe material.

Mobile homes used CPVC for years and some still do.  It works fine but is not as strong as a properly soldered copper pipe system.  Is the contractor installing this new plumbing a licensed plumber?  I'd be surprised if he is since he's using CPVC and not PEX (or similar) or copper.  PEX pipe is even cheaper than CPVC when run by a knowledgable plumber.  It doesn't require nearly as many joints since it comes in rolls and can flex through spaces easily.

There are some groups raising a fuss about BPA and other chemicals found in plastics that don't like the use of CPVC, PVC, or PEX pipe.  I haven't seen the results of any lab tests to confirm or dispute their concerns.  As far as durability goes it's fairly safe as long as it's properly installed and secured.  It is not as susceptible to hard water damage as copper.  It absolutely must be insulated along it's entire length to protect it from contact to other materials as well as freezing.  Also, the fixtures in the house need to be grounded electrically since the pipe itself provides no electrical protection against accidental shock or electrocution.  In a copper plumbed house the system is grounded so static electricity, a short in a wire near a water line, or lightning strike will carry the current out through the pipe instead of through the water to you, ideally.

If it's installed correctly you should be fine but make sure the contractor knows what he is doing and follows the proper procedures to use CPVC pipe.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
www.thomeservices.com
?
It is usually cheaper to remove part of the ceiling below and patch it after the leak has been repaired.  Remember that water can travel before settling in one area, causing the spot you've seen.  Just because it is below the toilet does not mean that the toilet is the problem.  The cheapest option is to pull the toilet and check the floor around the wax ring to see if it has been leaking.  A new wax ring only costs a few dollars.  When was the last time you caulked the shower in that bathroom?  The water can leak around the corners or at the door (if you have one) and travel along the floor joists until it pools in a lower spot on the ceiling below, then seep through.  It could also be a seal at the drain of the tub or shower. 

I get a few calls a year for this sort of thing.  It's usually something simple but can be a nightmare to diagnose, especially if the problem is intermittent.  Start with the simple possibilities and use deductive reasoning to narrow the possibilities.  Before you do a lot of damage it may pay off to hire a reputable contractor to help you make sure you've exhausted all of the imple and more obvious possibilities.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services

Drain Cleaning reviews in Puyallup

D

Rating
The snaking man arrived in a bad mood. I do not know his name because he never bothered to introduce himself. He started off by informing me that he had already had a long, hot morning and said "so, what are we here for?" as if I was somehow wasting his time already. As I began to explain the issue, he interrupted me to say, "you think I know where your washer is, because I don't." I
Puyallup Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
this rude man to the washing machine and he took about 15 minutes to snake it. It seems like a high price for such a short job, but I know that's how these things are. The drain seems to be clear for now and I was able to do a load of laundry, so what they did worked. However, I would never use this company again, nor would I recommend them to anyone else, simply due to the unpleasant experience of having this unprofessional person in my house. He was easily the rudest home repair/service person I have ever dealt with.
- Catherine H.
A

Rating
I purchased a package for Main Sewer line cleaning because I was having a problem with water backing up problem in my basement.
Puyallup Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
responded quickly, and took the time to really get to know what my issue really was instead of just performing what I had asked for! He explained things to me and then proceeded to take care of the real issue very quickly. He left everything cleaner that it was. Exceeded my expectations!
- Jay L.
F

Rating
Monday August 24th my wife, attracted by a $40 coupon, placed an order to have kitchen and bathroom faucets installed. For
approximately 2 hours on August 26th, the
Puyallup Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
technician,
Puyallup Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
Puyallup Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
worked on the job. Before any work could be done, however, a total final cost of work had to be calculated. This cost came to $580.00. Aghast at this price I reduced the order to work on the kitchen sink only, so reducing the cost to $400.71. As work proceeded Mr.
Puyallup Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
discovered that the old drain assembly could not be fitted to the new sink unit. Therefore a further work order charge to install a new drain assembly had to be calculated. This charge came to $190.59.
Puyallup Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
does not separate out the cost of parts from labor on its invoices. This way the company can hide the absurd disparity between extortionate labor charges and the cost of parts. I have since priced the PVC parts used for the drain assembly and estimated the cost be $23.93. If Mr.
Puyallup Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
had used metal parts for the drain assembly, as was requested, the cost of parts to Mr. Rooter would have been several times more. Instead the cheapest parts possible were used. The sink trap doesn’t even have a clean out!!
On completion of the work Mr.
Puyallup Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
asked me to check out the work. I questioned the leak in the faucet and was assured that remnant capillary water had to take time to drain out. But, the faucet continued to drain continuously. Mr.
Puyallup Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
was called back. He informed me that the hot water seal in the handle was faulty and had to be replaced which he would do for something in excess of $200.00. The following day I uninstalled the kitchen faucet and installed a new replacement myself – the cost $151.94. The real cost to
Puyallup Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
to repair the old faucet could not possibly have been more than the cost of a site visit, a new seal (generous estimate $25.00) and 10 minutes of labor.
At each step of the way, as the work was broken down into separate sales contracts, I was asked to sign an agreement threatening that if I didn't pay for the work when completed, I would face legal action including possible "legal ownership rights to your home." What business practice could be more draconian?
The whole experience of this repair service can be summed up as nothing less than predatory gouging. And the moral to this sorry tale -don't be fooled by coupon promos.
- John S.
A

Rating
Amazing experience. I called in the morning and
Puyallup Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
was able to make it that afternoon. He was running a few minutes late because of traffic and called to sell me. He took care of a pesky plug and gave me a good education along the way. Can't recommend any higher.
- Aaron S.
A

Rating
Puyallup Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
arrived on time. Super nice! Explained everything he was doing. Checked to make sure all was in working order & dry when he was finished. Excellent service & very professional. Would use them again in heartbeat! Locally owned, small family business. I like that! AND he is a Husker fan!!! Woot Woot!!
- Michelle H.
A

Rating
I was a new apartment manager and the service was provided in a timely manner and seemed to solve the problem for some time.
- Nancy H.
A

Rating
Overall we are very pleased with the work that was done. The first appointment was made for 2:00 in the afternoon, I had to leave work at 1:00 in order to be there on time, unfortunately I received a call at 2:30 letting me know they weren't going to be able to make it. Rescheduled for the next day and was told they would be there between 8:30 and noon, received a call at 8:30 letting me know they were on their way. They were able to replace the sink in the bathroom that I had purchased, unfortunately they had to also replace the pipes under the sink because they were corroding. They showed me the pipes and explained everything. The sink in the basement is an old cast iron sink and did not have any handles or faucets. They were able to order the new faucets and install them within a few days. They were very professional and I would definitely use them again.
- Deborah W.
B

Rating
The contractor who was working on our house fixed the problem. He said he was responsible for damage.
The appointment with Rhino wasn't necessary.
The person who answered the phone was polite about our cancelling the appointment a few hours before it was scheduled.
- Germaine S.

Drain Cleaning Companies in Puyallup, WA

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

3 DOG PLUMBING

PO Box 816
Easton

A & I Galiaf Co. LLC

7411 89th Pl NE
Marysville

A Advanced Septic

2518 East Valley HWY E
Sumner

A+ Sewer Technologies

900 Meridian E STE 19-193
Milton

A-1 Energy Efficiency Consulting

4215 26th Ave SW
Seattle

AAA Handyman Specialists

5709 110th St. SW
Lakewood

AAA Renovation Pros LLC

3201 SW Avalon Way #41
Seattle

ABS GENERAL CONSTRUCTION

3612 NE 4th St
Renton

Affortable West Coast Plumbing

PO Box 26061
Federal Way

AFORDABLE SEPTIC SERVICES

108255 22ND AVE E
Tacoma

All Aspects Plumbing & Drain Cleaning

22987 Marine View Dr S
Seattle

All Degrees Plumbing

5609 41st Ave E
Tacoma

All Services NW

5324 - 84th St E
Tacoma

America's Pride Home Services

23201 126th Ave E
Graham

American Property Solutions LLC

E60 Way to Tipperary
Shelton

Anthony Myers Plumbing

402 Railroad Ave S
Kent

Appleby Plumbing

p.o box 201
Lakebay

Aristo Mechanical Co

2612 50th Ave SW
Seattle

Armstrong Home Repair

10702 Umtanum st se

ASK Duct Services

11847 124th Ave NE
Kirkland

At Your Service Plumbing Inc

PO Box 64519
University Place

Atoms Sewer and Drain

PO Box 88563
Seattle

B & L Plumbing Service

15243 50th Place W
Edmonds

Best Plumbing

4129 Stone Way N
Seattle

Blue Pearl Construction

15199 SE 276 PL
Kent

BOB LARSON PLUMBING

4320 128TH ST E
Tacoma

Bob Oates Plumbing, Sewer, & Rooter LLC

600 W Nickerson Street
Seattle

Bobcat Plumbing Co

5319 Tacoma Mall Blvd

Brent's Septic

1237 52nd St. NE
Auburn

Brocks Building

12315 Vickery Ave E
Tacoma

Buildinfixer Inc

PO Box 73069
Puyallup

Cascade Service Solutions LLC

P.O. Box 327
Marysville

Chris's Plumbing

30557 54th Ave S
Auburn

Clean Septic Pumping LLC

16 Lakeside Club SW
Lakewood

Cosmetic Remodelers

PO Box 1514
Auburn

Cox Plumbing LLC

10720 24th st e
Puyallup

Crawl Space Solutions

8118 Stinson Ave
Gig Harbor

Crescent Valley Plumbing

2015 State Game Access RD NW
Gig Harbor

Day and Night Heating & Cooling

17024 Pacific Ave S
Spanaway

Dietz construction

P.O. Box 673
Spanaway

Donald Halcom Plumbing

11356 se 298th Place
Auburn

Done Right Plumbing & Sewer Repair

316 NE 191st St
Shoreline

DP Palmer Painting & Restoration

9773 Arrowsmith Ave S
Seattle

Drain Pro Plumbing Inc

12219 Military Rd S
Seattle

Drakkar Industries

P.O. Box 73712
Puyallup

Economy Septic Svc

PO Box 731292
Puyallup

Fix the World

pobox 822795
Vancouver

FloHawks

10412 John Bananola Way East
Puyallup

Forrest & Forrest Construction Services

9353 Skylark Ct
Joint Base Lewis Mcchord

Gary's Pipelining and Drain Cleaning

9558 Greenwood Ave. N.#304
Seattle

Global Plumbing

20216 108th Ave SE
Kent

Hagee Plumbing

6424 south 143rd place
Tukwila

HERRERA CONTRACTING

301 Wallace Kneeland Blvd
Shelton

Holm Handyman Service

11012 Canyon Rd
Puyallup

HOMES NORTHWEST INC

19626 133rd Ave SE
Snohomish

Honeydew Construction LLC

4015 South K Street
Tacoma

Honorable Mention Construction

45119 284th Ave SE
Enumclaw

Hunt's Plumbing and Heating

6225 4th St NE
Tacoma

Huttmann Electric Inc

8502 Valley Green Drive SE
Olympia

I Need a Plumber Now

19612 70th ave s
Kent

J and K Plumbing Inc

34127 183rd Ave SE
Auburn

JB Kirkman and sons inc.

Mountlake Terrace

Jim Dandy Sewer & Plumbing

903 N. 128th Street
Seattle

Jim Wetton's Plumbing

3390 Hansen St.
Enumclaw

John's Plumbing & Pumps, Inc

4715 Lacey Blvd SE
Lacey

Johnson Bros. Plumbing

5847 16th Ave S
Seattle

Jon Kelly

412 S. Lafayette Street
Bremerton

Kelpman Construction

PO Box 881320
Steilacoom

King Mechanical

11004 Cornell Ave S
Seattle

Leak Masters

408 McGraw St
Seattle

Lee’s Sanitation Service

3302 A St SE
Auburn

LKMC Enterprises

304 Industrial Dr SE
Rainier

LOYAL MECHANICAL INC

6747 15TH AVE NW
Seattle

M & J Handyman Services, LLC

P.O. Box 1311
Rochester

Martin Remodeling

715 2nd Ave S
Kent

Matt the Plumber

814 S 308th St
Federal Way

Merazas Sewer Services LLC

6830 NE Bothell
Kenmore

Michael's Handyman Service

2903 Rozewood Dr.
Bremerton

Mitchel Plumbing Co.

1602 Center St
Tacoma

Molecular Inc - No-dig Sewer Repair

247 Schutt Rd.
Castle Rock

Mr. Rooter of Seattle

2000 S. 116th St
Seattle

Mullen Homes INC

P.O. Box 4957
Spanaway

My PHD Services Inc

3501 S 38 St. Box 41
Tacoma

nationwide construction & renovation

1919 196th St SW Unit 4
Lynnwood

New Concepts Plumbing Inc

1726 NE 24th St
Renton

New Dimensions Construction

7945 45th Ave S
Seattle

NORTHSHORE SEWER & DRAIN CLEANING

23106 59TH AVE W
Mountlake Terrace

Northwest Cascade Inc

10412 John Bananola Way E
Puyallup

NW Septic Services

PO Box
732088

Nw Sewer & Drain

PO BOX 55573
Shoreline

Ocean Rooter Services, LLC

P.O. Box 1044
Spanaway

Olympic Plumbing

5321 E State Route 3
Shelton

Pacific Plumbing LLC

11725 SE 192nd Street
Kent

Pacific West Construction & Maintenance LLC

3240 15th Ave W Ste11
Seattle

Papa Bears Plumbing, Inc.

Po Box 1075
Sumner

Pinky's Plumbing

p.o.box 68133
Seattle

Pipe Guys

10741 A st So.
Tacoma

Plumbers in Seattle

5847 16th Ave S
Seattle

Plumbing Solutions

4224 Kyro Rd SE
Lacey

Pro-Vac

6622 112th St E
Puyallup

Prostyle Plumbing LLC

1612 Markham Ave NE
Tacoma

PTI Construction

4509 74th ave ct w

Quintana and Sons

3323 SW 344th St
Federal Way

RBoyd Professional Services

24003 Fisk RD E
Orting

Reliable Handyman

708 Hilltop Ave
Kent

Remedy Rooter

6339 42nd ave sw
Seattle

Remington Services

PO BOX 12436
Everett

Repipe Specialists of Washington Inc

100 Andover Park West
Seattle

Scottco Plumbing

6335 Augusta Place N.
Tacoma

Seattle Pipeworks

30701 229th Place SE
Black Diamond

Seattle Plumber

800 5th Ave
Seattle

Seattle Service Plumber

815 1st Ave
Seattle

service

Lakewood

Service Plumbing & Rooter LLC

22121 129th E St
Bonney Lake

Shenandoah Company

29641 196th Ave SE
Kent

South West Plumbing And Heating

2401 SW Alaska St
Seattle

Spartan Services, Inc

760 107th St S
Tacoma

Splash Marine Services

1201 millcreek blvd

State Plumbing

Federal Way

STERNOD ROOTER

PO BOX 1152
Puyallup

stratton construction

6201 332nd St E
Eatonville

Summerfield Construction

3055 112th Ave NE
Bellevue

Sunrise Contracting LLC

P.O. Box 11147
Olympia

Terry Jensen Custom Homes

PO Box 1237
Seahurst

The Plumbers

PO Box 476
Olympia

Three Guys Concrete LLC

7905 Detroit Ave SW
Seattle

Three Lakes Plumbing & Mechanical

39509 24th Ave Ct S
Roy

THRIFT WAY PLUMBING

PO Box 23295
Federal Way

Tony's Plumbing LLC

25611 142nd Ave E
Graham

Top Notch Plumbing Inc

13831 148th Ave SE
Yelm

Tradesmen Plumbing LLC.

5712 182 Pl SW
Lynnwood

Vietzke Trenchless Inc

2011 South Craig Road
Airway Heights

Vortex Plumbing Inc

9620 S 242nd Ct
Kent

WA Remodeling Inc

12823 Lost Lake Rd
Snohomish

WeHoneyDo.com Service Companies

10035 Main St
Bothell

WILKIN'S PLUMBING INC

PO Box 26034
Federal Way

Winners In-C

906 N Sheridan Avenue
Tacoma

Worx Plumbing and Heating, LLC

2041 S 134th ST
Seatac

Yelm Plumbing & Pumps LLC

7225 Pacific Ave. SE
Olympia

Your Handyman

6710 Cavalier St SW
Olympia

Your Home Management

20003 Fremont Ave N
Seattle

Shop Local Drain Cleaning Services in Puyallup, WA

Puyallup Zip Codes

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