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A
"Because two other electricians never returned our calls and a third charged us for a diagnosis but hasn't yet gotten back to us with a bid on a situation they" strongly warned was a fire hazard, I called
to inspect and give a second opinion. They were quick, courteous, professional, and thorough. Gave me an on the spot estimate that was about half of the ballpark estimate of the other contractor I was still waiting to hear back from. When I called but still couldn't get a response from the other company over the next few hours, I contacted
again and asked them to come and do the work. They made it a priority because of the safety issue and took care of the installation that afternoon. They pointed out the damage, explained everything thoroughly, and did a good job. Would definitely use again or recommend to friends.

-Colleen T.

A
"The technician showed up and was extremely courteous and professional. He immediately got to work on the two projects I needed him to complete. He cleaned up after" himself and made sure everything was working. He saved small talk about football until he was "off the clock" which is greatly appreciated - it shows the technician was not a robot and genuinely enjoyed meeting people and helping them but also respected that customers were paying by time, not services completed.

-Jacob S.

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Local Articles in Olympia

Hiring an Electrician

Good electricians require extensive training and continuing education to keep up with constantly changing technology. Your residential electrical contractor provides an important service to keep your home running safely and smoothly, so you want to hire the best possible person. Read this Homeowner's Guide to Hiring an Electrician to learn more before you hire.

Common Electrical Problems

Although the potential dangers of electrocution and fire should make most homeowners wary of do-it-yourself electrical projects, there are some basic electric troubleshooting tips that can help when you are experiencing issues.

Solar power panels
Heating & A/C, Electrical, Solar Panels

Homeowners should install green energy before the end of 2016 for a 30 percent tax credit.

wind power
Electrical, Solar Panels

For wind power to work well in a residential setting, it needs much space and a free-flowing breeze.

computer energy-saving tips
Electrical, Computer Sales

Whether you have a desktop or laptop, consider these tips to save electricity — and cash.

Angie's List ideas
Remodeling - General, Plumbing, Electrical, Auto Service, Roofing, Heating & A/C

Here are some of our favorite tips from highly rated service professionals over the past 20 years.

Angie's Answers

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Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.
?

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

?

As I understand it, you are looking at putting in a fan where there is no ceiling electric outlet. Since I am not sure, will try to break out piece by piece, undersanding these wouyld all be lumped into one job (possibly excluding wiring new outlet and switch). I hate to be so general, but access is the key here - if access is easy and there is a suitable light switch in the same room, cost can be at the low end of this range. If assess is poor and you don't want holes knocked in your drywall, then get more expensive real fast.

1) cost of fan typically $125-250 unless high end model

2) remove existing regular 4" box, install supports to joists and new box (ceiling fans need specially supported boxes due to the extra weight and swaying motion of the fans) $50-75

3) tap electric from existing circuit at existing box, upgrade existing light switch box to add one or two more switches (Adjustable for fan speed, 2nd for light, if so equipped), run wiring to ceiling fixture $125-250

4) put up fan, connect, test $75-100

So - total About $250-425 with no box there now, plus cost of fixture. A simple install to replace an existing fan, or install where the ceiling box was wired for a fan, would be only about $75-100.

This all assumes the existing nearby electric circuit can handle the addition of the fan - if not, then wiring cost will go up. It also assumes there is access via open attic or joists to install the wiring. Otherwise, installation cost OK but does NOT include repair to holes in drywall or ceiling to pull wiring.

Note also that an existing ceiling light box would probably NOT fill the bill - code in almost all jurisdictions requires 12 ga wire for fan motors, most household circuits are 14 or 16 gauge, so would need new wire pulled from a circuit with adequate capacity.

Get bids ! I worked on one job where the owner in a high-end house decided to put in fans with fancy candeliers underneath after construction was done - cost almost $3000 to do installation because all the wall and ceilings were finished in a high-end finish, so all wire pulling had to be done remotely - including removing siding to put in pull boxes at changes of direction and fasten conduit to studs. PLAN AHEAD !

 

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Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.

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An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.

 

A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.

 

Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.

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If you already have a fixture there, around $100 plus or minus about $30 if not over 7 or 30 pounds, or about $200-300 if weighs over about 7 or 30 pounds. The 7 or 30 pound ranges are dependent on whether the existing box is plastic or a standard Square-D type or equivalent metal one, because each type of box can only hold so much weight. If existing box is rated 70 pounds or more (ceiling fan or large chandelier rated) then the $100 range should do it regardless.

 

I am assuming when you say mini-pendants you meant from a single box if more than one. If you meant two separate by some feet, add probably about $100 more to add a second box, ASSUMING they will both be run off the same single switch.

 

IF you do NOT have a light fixture there now, then can run from $150-300 range if there is easy access from above (open attic) to $500 or more if has to tear into drywall to install wiring and box so you then have to get drywall contractor and painter in to repair the damages.

Electrician reviews in Olympia

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I have never had a repair man offer me a coupon that saved me $25. I was shocked, but very delighted. Very good people and very professional.
- Michael W.
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Prompt, professional, very knowledgeable, clean, efficient.
Olympia Electricians Provider Name Locked
gave me some very sound advice regarding my smoke detectors. No heavy sales pitch, just good advice, which I intend to follow thorough with in the near future. I will continue to use this company for electrical service in the futre and request
Olympia Electricians Provider Name Locked
.
- Dawn R.
A

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it took about a week to schedule the service and
Olympia Electricians Provider Name Locked
arrived about 10 minutes late but his work was professional and thorough and I will definitely use the service again
- M A G.
A

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Olympia Electricians Provider Name Locked
was punctual and got right to work. He installed the ceiling fan first and then mounted the TV. It went smoothly and I was very pleased. If I need any electrical work in the future, I will not do any research! I will just call
Olympia Electricians Provider Name Locked
and
Olympia Electricians Provider Name Locked
!!
- jacqueline B.
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We called D & R because we had problems with a few of the light fixtures in the kitchen: one ballast was broke, one light was intermittent, and one other just wasn't working. We originally just wanted to get the three lights fixed. When they looked at the problem they gave us the options: they could just fix the three lights but they would recommend retrofitting all 9 of the lights to LEDs and explained why. The ballasts were rather expensive to replace and don't last more than 5-7 years; and we could expect to replace the remaining ones at any time. He advised that retrofitting all 9 of the lights would be much less expensive, last much longer than the old lights and is the most current technology for this type of lighting choice. We chose to retrofit all 9 fixtures which was more cost effective ($550 to retrofit all 9 versus $350 to repair the 3 broken ones knowing we'd be needing to replace the other 6 at some point.)
This could not have gone any more smoothly. We called a couple of weeks before the install to get an estimate; they were completing a job in our area and came out when they were done with that job. The estimate was very reasonable. The day of the install they were on time (even a few minutes early). Went right to work and got the job done quickly. At the time of the estimate we hadn't realized how bright the LEDs would be (they were very bright) and they told me when they were installing the lights that they were dimmable. Our switches were not set up to dim lights but he was prepared and had the right kind of dimmers to replace our light switches. This was an additional cost but was also very reasonable.
My husband and I were very pleased with the results. The fixtures look much nicer than the original ones and we really like that we can adjust the level of light with the dimmers. The only thing that could have been better was if they had mentioned at the time of the estimate that the LEDs were dimmable and we could have discussed and decided to have the dimmers installed too at the time of the estimate.
We highly recommend D&R for electrical work and would not hesitate to use them again.
- Deborah S.
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The original work was done as scheduled, but about a week later I noticed that an indoor power outlet on the same circuit as the new outlet no longer worked. I contacted Millennium and
Olympia Electricians Provider Name Locked
promised to correct the problem without hesitation. Scheduling the additional repair presented some challenges, with a couple of missed appointments. In the end, however, the repair was completed correctly, and to make up for the delays, he patched the trench in the drywall that they had to create to install the new outlet. This was not part of the work, and was a very pleasant surprise (I was planning on patching it myself). In the end,
Olympia Electricians Provider Name Locked
showed why he has positive Angie's List review's. He was very professional, hardworking, and courteous, and when something didn't go quite right, he stepped up to make it right. I would recommend Millennium.
- Lauren R.
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It was raining on the day of work and the technician called to let me know they'd be about thirty minutes late since the rain was "supposed" to be moving out. They arrived at the time they indicated but rain was still coming down. The power company was late to arrive to cut power. In short, it was a rough day for them with the rain and supporting processes not coming off as scheduled. They were prepared with a canopy to cover them while they worked in the rain. Due to the many delays, the technician needed to come back the following day (his day off, by the way) to finish. The technician was extremely respectful and also apologetic for the delays (over which, he had control). He explained what they were doing and why so it was also educational. Since I do own an older home, I have no doubt future electrical work will be needed and I will definitely have them back based on this experience. I've had limited electrical work done on my home previous to this and am so glad I went with MVP this time. Excellent work and superior customer service.
- Janet C.
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Our congratulations to Angie's List and our thankful appreciation to
Olympia Electricians Provider Name Locked
and all of their fine employees. After searching Angie's List for days, we finally decided to take the $99 Ceiling Fan Installation deal offered by
Olympia Electricians Provider Name Locked
(and we're so glad we did). We bought the deal on Tues., 09-01-'15. We were confirmed by Angie's List also on 09-01-'15. We received an e-mail from Customer Service person
Olympia Electricians Provider Name Locked
at
Olympia Electricians Provider Name Locked
Electrical Contractor, also on 09-01-'15, but were not home at the time to receive it. We called
Olympia Electricians Provider Name Locked
the next morning (09-02-'15), discussed what we needed done and reviewed her schedule.
Olympia Electricians Provider Name Locked
offered an appointment for 09-03-'15, between 10am & 12pm, which worked out perfectly for us. I was advised at the beginning by
Olympia Electricians Provider Name Locked
that there would be an extra, minimal charge for the "ceiling fan box brace" and the installation of the two light switches.
Olympia Electricians Provider Name Locked
, the electrician from
Olympia Electricians Provider Name Locked
Electrical Contractor arrived at our home at 9:45am, on 09-03-'15, introduced & identified himself, was invited in and shown directly to the room the ceiling fan was to be installed in. When
Olympia Electricians Provider Name Locked
first arrived, we went over what was to be done, and he also advised of the "minimal extra charges". He began working straight away.
Olympia Electricians Provider Name Locked
is a very friendly, knowledgeable and very professional individual.
Olympia Electricians Provider Name Locked
explained each step of what he was doing as he went along. I asked if it bugged him that I was standing there watching and he said "absolutely not" !
Olympia Electricians Provider Name Locked
took the existing ceiling light down, placed a special ceiling fan box brace, assembled the entire ceiling fan and light assembly and then installed the entire assembly on the ceiling fixture.
Olympia Electricians Provider Name Locked
checked the entire operation of the ceiling fan and light assembly, plus that the remote control was functioning properly.
Olympia Electricians Provider Name Locked
also installed two light switches for us.
Olympia Electricians Provider Name Locked
had covered everything before starting work and cleaned up everything when he was done. The job was OK'd by us, COMPLETED TO OUR FULL SATISFACTION and the extra charges came to only $35. This company is very upfront, honest and very professional in the work they do. We are extremely happy with the work that was done and how it was done. We will use this company in the future (and hopefully
Olympia Electricians Provider Name Locked
will come out) for any and all of our electrical needs. We will highly recommend this company to all our friends, relatives and acquaintances. This is really an outstanding organization.
- Robert H.

Electricians in Olympia, WA

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

1st Auto Service

1021 Auburn Way S
Auburn

A-1 Energy Efficiency Consulting

4215 26th Ave SW
Seattle

A.M.S. Custom Electric

24442 Madura Dr NE
Kingston

AAA Handyman Specialists

5709 110th St. SW
Lakewood

AAA REMODELERS

17102 21st Ave. Ct. E.
Spanaway

Accent Construction and Remodel Corp

1911 SW Campus Dr
Federal Way

ACE Hardware Corporation

9000 Roosevelt Way NE
Seattle

ADVANCE ELECTRIC SVC INC

6322 RENATA LN SW
Olympia

Advanced Automotive

PO Box 987
Stanwood

Alexander Technical Resources

1263 Glenwood Ave. SE

All Services NW

5324 - 84th St E
Tacoma

All Weather Heating & Cooling Inc.

302 Kemp Street
Port Angeles

ALLTECH ELECTRIC INC

11424 JOVITA BLVD E
Puyallup

Allwest Construction

9109 58th ave se

Alton's Home & Office Repair Specialist

23960 35th Place South
Kent

AMC ELECTRIC

3213 W WHEELER ST
Seattle

American Property Solutions LLC

E60 Way to Tipperary
Shelton

Ames Remodeling

4511 S. J St
Tacoma

Ampere Electric Inc

3911 152nd Street Ct E
Tacoma

Aqua Quip - Redmond

8005 161st Ave NE
Redmond

ARS Construction

19104 SE 440th St
Enumclaw

ARTISANS ELECTRIC INC

1508 4TH AVE E
Olympia

Auburn Foreign and Domestic Car

725 Auburn Way N.
Auburn

AUTO MOBILE AUTO & TRUCK RPR

Beacon hill
Seattle

Avalon Contracting, Inc

2720 S J St
Tacoma

B Squared Electric Co LLC

8020 174th St NW
Stanwood

BECKER BROS CONSTRUCTION

349 NW 49TH ST
Seattle

Benla Water Heaters

3008 16th Ave W
Seattle

BETSCHART ELECTRIC CO

500 CHERRY ST SE
Olympia

Bob's Heating & Air Conditioning Inc

14148 NE 190th St
Woodinville

Bobcat Electric Inc

1407 S Tyler St
Tacoma

Bond Electric Co.

407 North E Street
Tacoma

Brack Electric LLC

1024 Utsalady Road
Camano Island

Brennan Heating & Air Conditioning

4601 S 134th Pl
Seattle

Brocks Building

12315 Vickery Ave E
Tacoma

BRON'S AUTOMOTIVE

1025 BLACK LAKE BLVD SW
Olympia

Brooks' Comfort Zone

PO BOX 1931
Silverdale

BROTHER'S ELECTRIC AND SOLAR

6019 ALAMAEDA AVE W
University Place

Brown Industries

1201 1036th Street E.
Tacoma

Browns Car Care

16510 106th ave se
Yelm

BURLESON'S NORTHWEST ELECTRIC

8522 ROCKY LN SE
Olympia

C & H SERVICES

23913 Witte Rd Se
Maple Valley

C T Building Inc

6040 188 Ave SW
Rochester

CAPITAL ELECTRIC INC

3035 37TH AVE SW
Olympia

CAR STEREO PLUS

1233 164TH ST SW
Lynnwood

Carlson Electric LLC

PO Box 654
Rochester

Carter Developing

4310 N Orchard St.
Tacoma

Carter Electric

1855 S. Leanne Ave
Moses Lake

CEC ELECTRICAL CONTRACTORS

7320 LITTLEROCK RD SW
Olympia

CHAMBERS PRAIRIE ELECTRIC

3944 74TH AVE SE
Olympia

Chardonnay Homes

923 187th Ave. E.
Lake Tapps

Charles Knauf Electric

3519 S Ash St
Tacoma

Christopher & Company

5594 NE Minder Rd
Poulsbo

CHUCK'S AUTO & ELECTRIC REPAIR

2621 CAPE GEORGE RD
Port Townsend

Clean Crawls

3707 124th Street NE Ste A 1
Marysville

CLOVER CREEK ELECTRIC

1413 CENTER ST
Tacoma

CMG Electric

PO Box 66
Auburn

Comcast Everett

2817 Colby Ave
Everett

Commercial Electrical Solutions

5627 18th CT NE
Olympia

COMPVIEW

652 Industry Drive
Seattle

Construction Expeditors

16915 SE 272nd
Kent

Constructive Changes

4020 Leary Way NW
Seattle

Coverdell & Coverdell Inc.

18714 12th Ave. CT. E.
Spanaway

Craft Star SPC

15745 Vail Rd SE
Yelm

Custom Contracting

821 Dock St
Tacoma

Custom Electrical Contractors Inc

21324 18th street east

CUSTOM FLOOR HEATING

Bellevue
Bellevue

David Bronson- Realtor

3934 Lemon Rd NE
Olympia

DC Electric Inc

23117 63rd Ave W
Mountlake Terrace

Delean Contracting & Landscaping

11858 SE 236th St
Kent

Divine Protection

PO Box 691
Everett

ELECTRONICS SUPPLY CORP

8914 205TH PL SW
Edmonds

Elite Spas Northwest

19809 NE 174th St
Woodinville

Emerald Isle Tile

10537 Greenwood Ave N
Seattle

Emerald State Electric

7215 93rd St Ct E
Puyallup

ENERTEC-BAS CORP

628 PLYMOUTH ST SW
Olympia

Estate Building Inc

3507 35st NW
Gig Harbor

Evans Electric

17420 64Th Ave.
Puyallup

EVERGREEN RESTORATION INC

10611 CANYON RD E
Puyallup

Eylander Electric

3601 Everett Ave
Everett

Fireside Home Solutions

21402 84th Ave S
Kent

Forbes Electrical Construction

1502 S Brookside Terrace
Tacoma

FRANK & SONS CONSTRUCTION

8204 PORTLAND AVE E
Tacoma

Freedom Systems, Inc.

3507 SW Alaska St
Seattle

Fremont Medical & Dental

4464 Fremont Ave N
Seattle

Front Panel Express, LLC

5959 Corson Avenue South,Suite I
Seattle

G&G Heating

PO Box 1426
Olympia

GALLERY MARINE SVC LLC

717 NE NORTHLAKE WAY
Seattle

GAMBILL'S MOTOR WORKS

32502 BENBOW DR E
Graham

GEORGE'S A TO Z ELECTRIC

1300 S Puget Dr Apt 219
Renton

Global Energy Storage

PO Box 1291
Mercer Isalnd

Global Green Energy Corp

7930 Center St SW
Olympia

GO2 Elelctric LLC

422 Tacoma Ave S
Tacoma

GOLD COAST ELECTRIC

26231 235TH AVE SE
Maple Valley

Good Sense Electric

P.O Box 421
Mukilteo

GRAVES ELECTRIC

3210 LILLY RD NE
Olympia

GREAT NORTHERN ELECTRIC LLC

9785 OLYMPUS BEACH RD NE
Bainbridge Island

Green Roots Electric LLC

2103 Manorwood Dr SE
Puyallup

H & B Electric LLC

PO Box 221
Battle Ground

HandyJack Construction

2110 54th Ave SW
Olympia

HARBOR BUILERS

5202 CROMWELL DR
Gig Harbor

Hardworking Handyman LLC

2620 Bellevue Way NE
Bellevue

HARRINGTON ELECTRIC

640 NISQUALLY CUT OFF RD SE
Olympia

HERTZ ELECTRIC

757 116TH ST S
Tacoma

HID Kit Pros

60 NW Gilman Blvd.
Issaquah

HILL CUSTOM HOMES

6869 KIMBALL DR
Gig Harbor

HOME DEPOT INC

1101 KINGSWOOD DR SW
Olympia

House Mart Ace Hardware

14100 SE Petrovitsky Rd
Renton

Hull Electric and Servicellc

17106 17th Ave Ct E
Spanaway

Huttmann Electric Inc

8502 Valley Green Drive SE
Olympia

Integrated Living Solutions

20126 Ballinger Way NE
Shoreline

IUEC

972 Stone Brook DR SW
North Bend

J & A Electric and Solar

1615 W Smith St
Kent

JDS Construction

341 Ram Ct SE
Lacey

JOE MYERS CONSTRUCTION

4418 128TH PL SE
Everett

K&H Developments

29707 4th Ave SW
Federal Way

Kairos Enterprises Inc

7474 S. 116th Street
Seattle

Keystone Construction & Consultants Inc

5515 Steilacoom Blvd Ste 130
Lakewood

KING ELECTRICAL MFG CO

9131 10th Ave S
Seattle

Kitchen Design Center Ltd

1109 Sleater Kinney Rd SE
Lacey

KLEVEN HOMES INC

PO Box 1625
Gig Harbor

Knights Electric

PO Box 1368
Mckenna

Kolyn Electric

33232 37th Ave SW
Federal Way

L & L MACHINERY

3225 MAYTOWN RD SW
Olympia

L G Handyworks

443 E Burgundy Rd
Shelton

Lander Electric Service, LLC

13680 NE 16TH ST
Bellevue

Lanphear Construction LLC

2635 Lacrosse Way
Shelton

Lassen Electric Services Inc

301 Capitol Way N
Olympia

Lawber & Sons Mechanical

PO Box 73262
Puyallup

LeAir Climate Control, Inc.

po box 73307
Puyallup

Lewis Construction Group

PO Box 248
Edmonds

Live Wire Electric LLC

PO Box 3442
Lynnwood

LUCKY ELECTRIC

2914 136TH STREET CT E
Tacoma

MACDONALD MILLER

7717 DETROIT AVE SW
Seattle

Maple Crest Electric

21628 84th Ave
Kent

MARDY BETSCHART ELECTRIC

2825 MARVIN RD NE
Olympia

Marshal Electric, Inc.

70 E Ballycastle Way
Shelton

Mathewson's Automotive

271 Rainier Ave N
Renton

MC Home Inspections

900 Meridan E. Ste #19-182
Milton

McMullen Electric

103 17th St NW
Puyallup

MD MARINE ELECTRIC

672 E 11TH ST
Tacoma

MERIT ELECTRIC

12201 Cyrus Way Ste 105
Mukilteo

Miracle Painting and Remodeling

7030 Meridian Rd SE
Olympia

MM Comfort Systems

18103 NE 68th St Ste C-200
Redmond

MOBILE ELECTRICAL DISTR

14050 LAKE CITY WAY NE
Seattle

Monark Homes

13008 174th Street E
Puyallup

MORLEY ELECTRIC

PO BOX 1904
Olympia

Mr. Electric

6325 Martin Way E
Lacey

Mr. Handyman of Everett

10121 Evergreen Way
Everett

Mullen Homes INC

P.O. Box 4957
Spanaway

Munion And Seth Electrical Contractors

22433 SE 296th St
Black Diamond

nationwide construction & renovation

1919 196th St SW Unit 4
Lynnwood

NetCertLabs

6613 South 192nd Place
Kent

New Dimensions Construction

7945 45th Ave S
Seattle

New Green NW Construction

4725 Shilshole Ave.
Seattle

NO LIMITS PAINTING

PO Box 787
Milton

NORTH PACIFIC ELECTRIC

5746 BOSTON HARBOR RD NE
Olympia

Northwest Natural Lighting

7906 230th St SW
Edmonds

Norton & Associates

22407 87th ave west

NW Wind & Solar

828 Poplar Place S
Seattle

OLYMPIA ELECTRIC CO INC

PO Box 1579
Olympia

ON TIME ELECTRIC

5815 LACEY BLVD SE
Olympia

On Time Electric

918 S. Horton St.
Seattle

Options 4 Solar

322 Rogers St NW
Olympia

Out of the Box Manufacturing

1600 SW 43rd St Ste 200
Renton

Pacific supply

1417 12th Ave
Seattle

Parthenon Pacific Construction

1702 Diamond St Ct
Milton

Paul Haugen Construction LLC

8002 58th. Ave. NW
Gig Harbor

PCS Services

13726 166 Ave. SE
Rainier

Perfect Solutions & Fitness

P.O. Box 757
Buckley

Precision Tile

6401 Hazel Ave SE #B
Auburn

Premier Mechanical And Electric LLC

22118 20th Ave SE
Bothell

Pro-Circuit Audio & Video LLC

27111 167th Place SE
Kent

Prowire Electric

130 105th Ave SE
Bellevue

PTI Construction

4509 74th ave ct w

Puget Sound Energy

PO Box 97034
Bellevue

Pyramid Remodeling & Construction

2113 28th Ave NW
Olympia

Quality Heating Electrical & AC

9960 Silverdale Way #14
Silverdale

R & S Construction

350 S 312th St
Federal Way

R C C

11454 Des Moines Memorial Dr
Seattle

R&R Electrical Services

25644 30th ave so
Kent

RAINIER HANDYMAN SERVICES

536 Spiketon Road
Buckley

RAM Electric

12981 Cloquallum Rd.
Shelton

RBoyd Professional Services

24003 Fisk RD E
Orting

RCM Electric LLC

6209 219th St Ct E
Spanaway

Redhawk Group, LLC

950 N. 72nd St
Seattle

Reign Electric LLC

147 N.E. 116th Street
Seattle

Reliable Electric Inc

5024 Lambskin St SW
Olympia

Reputable Electric LLC

1317 Central Ave South
Kent

Robbins & Co

818 SW 142nd St
Seattle

SAFE & SOUND ELECTRIC

2103 HARRISON AVE NW
Olympia

SAME DAY DOORS

10048 Sand Point Way NE
Seattle

SARE ELECTRIC INC

PO Box 12870
Olympia

Scalise Renovations

112th & Canyon Road
Puyallup

Scott Delap Construction Inc

3517 95th Pl SE
Everett

Seattle Environmental Construction LLC

309 S Cloverdale St
Seattle

Seattle's Best Residential Repairs LLC

2518 92nd Place SE
Everett

Select RemodelPro, LLC

PO Box 1950
Milton

Shocking Difference LLC

5329 Lemon Rd NE
Olympia

Short Electric, LLC

916 W Bulb Farm Rd
Shelton

SKN Works

1205 125th PL SW
Everett

Smart Home Improvements

2625 LEMONS BEACH RD W
Tacoma

SMY Home Improvement

4510 168th St SW
Lynnwood

Solar Epiphany

4013 47th Ave SW
Seattle

Sound Heating & Air Conditioning Inc

5526 184th St E
Puyallup

South Sound Solar Inc

4511 Lemon Rd NE
Olympia

Sparkll

7519 18TH AVE NE
Seattle

Sparx Electric LLC

9905 NE 117th Ave

Stricker Electric LLC

PO Box 930
Graham

Sun Spaces

9019 Bothell Way NE
Bothell

Sunny Electric LLC

6482 NE Fir St
Suquamish

Sunrise Construction (WA) LLC.

12322 Highway 99
Everett

Sunset Air Inc

5210 Lacey Blvd
Lacey

Superior Engineering Services

14900 Interurban Ave S
Tukwila

Switch Electric LLC

7226 139th Ave NE
Lake Stevens

T-Jack Construction, LLC

PO Box 886
Auburn

Terry Electric LLC

12430 Brooks St SW
Olympia

THE CORRECT CONNECTION

12021 2nd Ave
Seattle

Thurston Electric LLC

3235 18th Ave SE
Oympia

TNT Electric

8000 Meridian Rd SE
Olympia

Top Flight Construction Inc

2111 348th st ct E
Roy

Tuff-Weld Wood Products LLC

7840 Old Highway 99 SE Ste A1
Tumwater

TUMWATER ELECTRIC

2513 SAPP RD SW
Olympia

Turner Home Improvement

9116 15th Ave NE
Seattle

Ultrarock Builders

22741 10th Ave
Seattle

UNITY ELECTRIC LLP

20306 15th Ave NE
Shoreline

Valence Electrical LLC

3815 A Shelby Rd
Lynnwood

VanCleave Homes

@gmail
Tacoma

VECA Electric Co. Inc.

7000 Werner Road
Bremerton

WA Remodeling Inc

12823 Lost Lake Rd
Snohomish

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

Washington Electric

14404 SE 216th St
Kent

Washington Electrician Service llc

6405 Isaac Ave SE
Auburn

Washington Energy Services

3909 196th St SW
Lynnwood

Watson Contracting LLC

PO Box 862
Monroe

Will Zimmer Construction

5717 53rd Ave NW
Gig Harbor

Wireworks LLC

5919 104th St E
Puyallup

WOOD ELECTRIC INC

3735 BOULEVARD RD SE
Olympia

Woodland Remodel LLC

PO BOX 945
Black Diamond

Your Home Management

20003 Fremont Ave N
Seattle

Your Home Management

20003 Fremont Ave N

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Olympia Zip Codes

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