-Find top-rated Service Providers

Find Top-Rated Battle Ground Structural Engineers

Angie's List helps you hire the best - and avoid the rest!

Structural Engineers to Avoid

37

Top Rated Structural Engineers

6

Prevent buyer's remorse with us

  • Over 3 million people trust Angie's List to help make the right choice
  • Be informed to avoid costly mistakes
  • Shop with us to ensure a fair price
  • Our complaint resolution team will help if a project goes bad
+See Verified Local Reviews

Over 401 reviews for
Battle Ground Structural Engineers from people just like you.

C
"First of all, we had a lot of trouble contacting them and getting them to set up an appointment. We never did have a definitive time; he said he'd call when" he was on his way. We were told that we had to pay in cash, so I had to go to the bank to get the money. I asked for a receipt. They said they would send it to my email. It is now two months later and a still do not have the receipt. All they did was find the metal stakes that were already in position and hang a pink tie on three sides. They didn't even have to get their surveying equipment out. On the back right, the stake was missing and they had to triangulate the distance from the other stakes. They charged $50 more to add the stake in the back.

-Gayla K.

A
"We were in the option period of purchasing a home and the inspection said we had foundation problems. We decided to get an engineer to evaluate the severity of the" foundation issues. Since we were in our option period we were tight on time for an engineer to come out. I called M G in the morning and explained my situation. He was nice enough to drop everything he was doing and meet me at my house in 2 hrs. When he arrived he got straight to work walking around the home(with me) and explaining in detail everything he noticed, good or bad. Then he went under the house into the crawl space. After a few minutes M G told me that I should come into the crawl space with him to evaluate my home, this was very important. He showed me everything he noticed underneath the home, again good or bad. He explained to me things that I could fix myself and what would need a professional. Then we crawled under a second crawl space to examine an addition to the house. He again took me with him and explained everything in detail. This part of the house needed extensive repairs. We got the seller to fix the foundation issues with the approval of M G passing it off. Two weeks later M G returned to the home and inspected the work. Again he did a very thorough job. The best part about M G was that he was going to give an honest opinion of the work. He was unbiased the work, he wanted to give an honest evaluation. Based off of his recommendation of the work we did not go through with the house. His opinion, honesty, and sincerity was crucial in saving us from a bad situation. Working with multiple inspection and foundation companies I have not come across anyone that cared as much about his work and doing the right thing. He is not the cheapest engineer, which he will admit himself, but he is the best. If you have any doubts about your foundation and you want to get an honest evaluation of your home please call M G.

-Delaney C.

+Shop, Schedule, and Save on Services

Shop, Search and Save from anywhere!

  • Offers are exclusively provided by highly rated companies
  • Angie’s List members have access to exclusive discounts on local services
  • Shop, schedule, and stay on top of progress from any device
  • Our 30 Day Refund Guarantee means you can buy with confidence!
+Join 2 Million People on Angie's List

Over 2 million people trust Angie's List.

  • Your Membership Includes:
  • Instant access to top rated businesses covering 700+ services
  • Our Complaint Resolution Team to help when a project goes bad
  • On-the-go access to our iPhone, Android, & iPad apps
Find top-rated Service Providers
See Verified Local Reviews
Shop, Schedule, and Save on Services
Join 2 Million People on Angie's List

Local Articles in Battle Ground

Have a foundation crack? Consult a structural engineer

Are you worried about a crack in your home's foundation. A structural engineer can examine the crack and determine if your house is safe or hazardous to live in.

Structural Engineers

Your home's ability to withstand the forces of nature and gravity depend on good structural engineering. Building room additions, correcting foundations and repairing structural damage are all projects that call for a structural engineer's expertise.

Wet basement floor with mold
Structural Engineering, Basement Waterproofing

A structural engineer explains why to hire an engineer and draft a plan before repairing a wet basement or crawl space.

Interior remodeling project, in progress.
Remodeling - General, Structural Engineering

Dear Angie: How much should it cost to remove a wall? We want to take out about 9.5 feet of a wall that runs from an exterior wall of the house to an interior wall. – Jenny H., Tampa, Florida

Angie's List
Appraisals - Real Estate, Architects & Building Design, Basement Waterproofing, Bathtub Refinishing & Liners, Biohazard Remediation, Builders - Garages/Barns/Sheds, Builders - Homes, Cabinet Making, Cabinet Refacing/Restoration, Carpentry - Unfinished, Carpentry - Woodworking, Carpet Sales/Installation/Repair, Chimney Caps, Chimney Repair, Chimney Sweep, Closets, Concrete - Leveling/Mudjacking, Concrete - Pouring & Repair, Concrete - Stamped & Decorative, Countertops, Deck Maintenance, Decks & Porches, Delivery Service, Dock Building & Repair, Doors, Drywall, Dumpster Service, Electrical, Epoxy Flooring, Excavating, Fireplaces, Floor Cleaning/Polishing/Waxing, Flooring Sales/Installation/Repair, Foundation Repair, Fountains, Garage Doors, Glass & Mirrors, Glass Block, Gutter Cleaning, Gutter Repair & Replacement, Handymen, Hardwood Flooring Sales/Installation/Refinishing, Hauling, Heating & A/C, Home Automation, Hurricane Shutters, Insulation, Land Surveying, Landscaping, Landscaping - Hardscaping & Pavers, Landscaping - Lakefront, Landscaping & Lighting, Lawn & Yard Work, Lawn Fertilization & Treatment, Lawn Irrigation, Lead Testing & Removal, Marble & Granite, Masonry, Mold Testing & Remediation, Moving, Painting - Exterior, Painting - Interior, Pest Control/Exterminating, Plumbing, Plumbing - Drain Cleaning, Pressure Washing, Radon Detection & Reduction, Remodeling - Basements, Remodeling - General, Remodeling - Kitchen & Bathroom, Remodeling - Modular & Mobile Home, Remodeling - Sunrooms & Patio Enclosures, Roof Cleaning, Roof Ice/Snow Removal, Roofing, Screen Repair, Septic Tank, Sewer Cleaning, Siding, Skylights, Stone & Gravel, Structural Engineering, Stucco, Tree Service, TV Service - Cable, TV Service - Satellite, Wallpaper Removal, Wallpapering, Window Cleaning, Window Tinting, Window Treatments, Windows, Windows - Egress, Windows - Safety & Security Film, Wrought Iron

Contractors say homeowners with this trait are the most satisfied with home improvement projects.

earthquake retrofit
Remodeling - General, Structural Engineering

Earthquakes can strike out of nowhere and cause major damage to your home. Consider these tips to protect your home from earthquake damage.

Angie's Answers

?

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

?

There is NO such thing as an average cost !

 

You are going to be required to have a building permit and the Building Comissioner

or Senior Permit Official of your local permit office will issue a determination as to whether you will be required to have a Steel Bearing Beam , a Laminated Bearing Beam or some other Beam to support weight of the structure you want to ammend . You  may also be required to install Bearing support posts footings,  at either end of the beam as well. Much will depend as to what is over  and under the space that you wish to span .The official may require you to retain an Architectual Engineer to perform a Load study and computations and require you to  comply with his recomendations .

 

 Until you know what is required by the Permitting Office , Then and only then will you be able to determine the true costs .

 

The fact that you have existing baseboard heat , and we know NOT if it is electric or radiant baseboard heat will complicate the issue as well the existing electrical outlets which may need to be sunken into the floor in order to maintain the electrical circuitry as it exists.

 

 Past experience in these matters , indicate possible costs to range from  $4000.00 to  as much as  $8k -$10,000.00 . I realise that these cost ranges are probably NOT what you want or expect , but There are too many unknowns to attempt a closer cost expectation or range of expenses !

?

Hi, this is Meranda with Angie's List.

 

You can log in at www.angieslist.com and search for "structural engineer" to find someone in your area who can independently assess the situation. They should be able to determine if this is a serious problem or a cosmetic problem, and if it's an issue make a recommendation/plan to fix it.

 

While your mileage may vary, I had a similar situation in my own home this spring. We noticed several new drywall cracks that appeared to be developinfg or growing around our 20-year-old home. We hired a structural engineer — $300 for an assessment — and he concluded the home was structurally sound, and the cracks likely were just settling and seemed to appear one after another because the crazy weather and humidity changes over the winter. It was worth that price to sleep better at night not worried my home was falling down. He recommended we find a drywall guy to fix it — way cheaper than the scenarios I'd been imagining in my head.

 

If you need help finding someone, you can also always email or call in a request for our member services team at memberservices@angieslist.com or 1-888-944-5478 on weekdays from 8:30 a.m. to 8:15 p.m. and Saturday from 8:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Eastern time.

 

Good luck!

?

Architect first - for around $1000 typically you will get site consultation, a few sketches showing what you said you wanted, and a preliminary (by the book) cost estimate - that you can use to figure if your budget or scope of work needs major adjustment. Then, if you go ahead, typically about 10-20% of total project cost for complete plans and specs (including above cost), depending on complexity and level of interior design detail, and if construction inspection services are included.

 


 
 
Generally, nothing is free with an architect - unlike a contractor where a bit of consultation and a rough estimate is a lead-in to the actual work he hopes to get (the construction/repair) and part of his bidding cost, an architect (and engineer) makes his living giving advice and consultation and developing designs and cost estimates - so giving it away for free is sort of like a dentist doing sample fillings for free. Some will come to your house to discuss your concepts for 15-20 minutes for free, basically to see if they want to take you on as a client or feel your job is the type or size they want, but you should expect little or nothing in the way of a design or cost estimate for free - the most you might get would be an opinion on whether it sounds, off the cuff, like your budget is roughly in line with your desired scope of the project.
 
 
On more complex or up-scale remodels, it is not unusual to contact several architecture firms and request proposals - where they basically come see the site, then give you a sketch or few or more common today, computer-generated altered photos of your place, showing conceptually what they can do for you, then you choose the one you like the most and go with that one for final design. Typically $500-1000 range fee (each) to get that done for small jobs, larger jobs will typically be no charge but that assumes probably $25-50,000 plus anticipated fees if they get the job.
 
 
Bear in mind in the latter scenario you cannot pick and choose betweenthe best parts of each proposal - the architect owns the design and it is copyrighted, so while you can choose bui9lding elements (dormers, bay windows, etc) from any of the proposals, specific design or color combinations are copyrighted by the proposer.
The Search the List category is Architects and Building Design.
?
Here is a link to a recent diagnosis exercise I just went through on another similar question - might be of some interest to you, though that case is likely duct related whereas your I think may be outside - http://answers.angieslist.com/What-causing-loud-banging-clicking-noise-q141018.aspx In your case however, and especially with the only on very cold night issue and especially more early in winter, my first, second and probably third guess would be the deck. Baseboard heating pipes commonly creak, pop, and sometimes squeek as they expand and contract, but unless the pipes are jamming up where they come out of the floor so they make the baseboard radiator "pop", they usually do not "bang" like steam pipes do. And would sound like someone accidentally kicking the baseboard like a minor clang or thump - and typically quite metallic sounding in that case. The jut out on the house could make the noiseif it is heating and cooling signifiantly, but with constant heat in the house I would doubt it - that noise can occur on occasion due to siding being installed without adequate expansion gaps at the ends of boards or edges of panels. Usually if that is the problem, though, you will get bulging or end-cracking or splitting of the siding oer time. Plus of course the expansion and noise occurs in HOT conditions (usually direct sunlight on hot days), not in the cold of winter. Deck, especially in early winter as they initially freeze and the moisture content in the boards is typically high, tend to thump quite hard as they freeze - commonly sounds about like someone jumping up high and landing hard on the deck in boots, or maybe like someone hitting the far end of the house with a sledgehammer. Not uncommon to actually feel the thump while in your bed. What is happening can be one of several things: 1) most commonly, moisture in the boards is freezing causing expansion - till eventually the board(s) pop a nail, or break free of the frost holding them to the support boards. They freeze at the joists first because that is where the free water is and is accessible to the air all around so it freezes hard first, then as hard freezing conditions persist through the night the water in the boards themselves expands, causing the board to eventually break the ice bond - or in extreme cases to push hard enough against the end of the next board to break it free. This commonly happens from a couple to around 4-6 hours after evening hard freeze sets in, so commonly about midnightish as opposed to early evening or early AM, in normal daily temperature fluctuation conditions. This can easily happen to several boards in one night, and if thawing in the daytime, or especially if getting rained on or getting snow meltwater again, can become more frequent for awhile then taper off a few days to a week or so later. 2) decks are basically built as a single unit without specific expansion provision, but are semi-rigidly fastened in place by the piers and commonly rigidly fastened along the house edge - so any expansion or contraction creates stresses in the deck which eventually can get strong enough to cause popping and creaking and thumping noises. Because it is rigidly constructed, the stresses (from moisture or freezing or on large decks even just daily thermal changes) can accumulate fairly well before something releases, so the thump or bang can be quite loud. 3) if your support posts (on decks with outer edge support piers/posts and fastened to the house with a ledger board) are frost heaving, then they lift the deck upwards at the outer edge, which can cause sounds from nails prying out of the house as the ledger board tilts up - or in extreme cases ripping out of lag bolts or joist hangers. Check to be sure your ledger board is not tilting away form the house at the bottom, and that the deck is not tilting up significantly at the outer edge. 4) sometimes the freezing water in the deck boards can cause splitting of the board, which makes a tearing or ripping sound usually, rather than a thump. 5) occasionally, frost heave in the ground under the stairs can lift the stairs, causing tearing or ripping where it is fastened to the deck. While disturbing, this sort of noise (in moderation) does not normally "damage" a deck, though of course it does cause a general loosening up of fasteners over time, and sometimes snaps deck nails or screws (screws more often because they are generally higher stress steel, so can't yield as much before snapping). Of course, significant frost heaving does need to be taken care of - by solving the cause (footings bearing on/in frost heave susceptible soil) or by releveling the deck periodically if a slow, gradual year-by-year heaving of the foundations. Measures to take - just visually inspect the deck and alll support posts and connections periodically (every year or two) for broken or loose ones, but generally unless deck board fasteners break, you will not see anything except maybe a few nail heads sticking up. And check it with a level to be sure the outer edge is not lifting up due to frost heaving of the piers, and adjust back level (hopefully you have adjustable piers/posts).
?

Structural Engineering reviews in Battle Ground

C

Rating
We had to nudge to get the structural inspection and proposal; when received it was detailed; the estimate was very high in relation to others I received. I sent some follow-up questions which were never addressed. My experience mirrors that of others re: follow-through.
- Sharon W.
A

Rating
His report was the essential reason the structure was constructed in a safe and secure manor that will support the load of the roof. After his report was reviewed by the contractor, the beam was changed per his recommendation. I was concerned about the beam and contacted
Battle Ground Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
to alleviate my concern or to support my position for a larger beam. I explained the project was underway and I needed an immediate consultation.. He was very responsive and reviewed the construction the same day and gave me a written report that was complied with by the contractor. I was very pleased with the immediacy and quality of service he provided.
- VIVIAN G B.
A

Rating
Battle Ground Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
was totally professional. He listened to all of the issues we face with this remodel, and gave us good advice. He only took a break for lunch. We would hire
Battle Ground Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
for any work into the future.
- karin H.
A

Rating
Battle Ground Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
, the engineer, explained the work in easy to understand terms. Workmen showed up on time, were polite, hard-working and cleaned up afterwards.
- Frederick F.
A

Rating
Battle Ground Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
WAS GREAT, HE TOOK A LOOK AT OUR PROBLEMS AND RECOMMENDED REPAIRS. HE EXPLAINED THINGS IN A WAY I COULD UNDERSTAND, AND SAVED ME THOUSANDS OF DOLLARS OVER WHAT A COUPLE OF BIG NAME FOUNDATION COMPANIES WANTED ME TO DO.
- Joseph S.
A

Rating
Very professional company in every aspect. From punctuality, price, and follow thru on commitments. The engineer came out to my home on Monday morning and I had the drawing for my wall the next evening. I would highly recommend for any project.
- david A.
N

Rating
It was great!
Battle Ground Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
is very professional, and extremely knowledgable about everything that was required to meet the needs of this job. I am very impressed and will definitely use them in the future and recommend them to anyone needing these services.
- Dan S.
A

Rating
The house was settling on the north side. We were concerned about hiring a foundation repair company without knowing what needed to be done. We wanted to know what to expect. He did a thorough job; he walked around the exterior and interior to check. Spartan's analysis matched his. We were happy that we spent the money. It gave us peace of mind.
- John S.

Structural Engineers in Battle Ground, WA

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

BK Structural Engineers

2700 SE Harrison St

Digital Scan 3D

2828 SW Kelly Avenue Portland, OR, 97201 USA

Earthquake Tech

210 SE Madison St

EK ENGINEERING

105 West Main Street, Suite 101.
Battle Ground

Environmental Works LLC

2634 SE Steele St

G2 Associates, Inc.

2705 E Burnside Street

GRIPPIN CONSTRUCTION

1505 TIERRA DR

GTM Construction Inc

17735 Mardee Ave

Haner, Ross & Sporseen, Inc.

2895 Beavercreek Rd.

Indy Construction LLC

3307 Evergreen Way
Washougal

John Webb Construction & Design

1256 Willagillespie RD

Lanphere Construction & Development

13625 SW Farmington Road

Meyers Green Steel Homes

202 NE Everett Rd
Camas

Miller Consulting Engineers

9570 SW Barbur Blvd #100

MJS CONTRACTING

PO Box 1861
Battle Ground

New Leaf Renovation

15993 SW Kreick Pl

Northbank Civil and Marine LLC

2119 SE Columbia Way, Ste 330
Vancouver

NW IRON WORKS, INC

6514 NE 42nd Ave

OGREN ENGINEERING

3254 NE Ainsworth Street

Ouellette Engineering

200 E 2nd St Ste 103

Permit-It.com

PO Box 998
Washougal

QUALITY COUNTS LLC

7409 SW Tech Center Dr

TELEMARK

1801 SE Commerce Ave
Battle Ground

West Coast Engineering PC

13224 SE Comanche Ct

Shop Local Structural Engineering Services in Battle Ground, WA

Join Angie's List to get the best local reviews in Battle Ground.

What Does My Membership Include?
  • Instant access to reviews for 700+ services
  • Exclusive service discounts - up to 70 percent off!
  • Top-notch support from our live call center
How does Angie's List work?
1. Say you need a Structural Engineer
2. Angie's List has tons of detailed, local reviews.
3. Find a winner, and book them.
4. Angie's List is there to resolve any issues.
CBS
Good Morning America
Fox News
USA Today
The Wall Street Journal
MSN money