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Over 4,175 reviews for
Williamsburg Mold Removal Experts from people just like you.

"It couldn't have gone any better. Mr. and his assistant were the utmost professionals. I would highly recommend these good folks to" anyone, not just for mold treatment but for an overall home inspection. Mr. 's expertise is rare and invaluable.

-Joshua N.

"From the first phone call to the last, this was a very positive experience. was quick to respond and set up a plan that fit my busy travel" schedule. The project team was professional and thorough. I had zero concerns about leaving them to work in the house while I was away. I suppose the only upside to finding mold is finding a solid company capable of fixing the problem.

-Kelley T.

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Local Articles in Williamsburg

removing black mold

Mold Removal and Remediation

Nothing strikes fear like the sight of black mold. Learn about household mold, mold symptoms, how to test for mold and the best methods for mold removal.

It’s not abnormal to find mold in your home. Getting the mold treated right away is the best way to avoid health risks. Once you remove the mold from your home it’s very important to fix the moisture problem to prevent the problem from reoccurring.

mold in home basement

If you own a residential property, it's important you understand what mold is doing to your home.

Mold exposure can lead to several health-related problems. With its natural ability to travel through the air, the inhalation of mold spores can create a variety of respiratory ailments. Common side effects include asthma, allergies, respiratory infections, sinus infections and skin rashes. In some cases, mold exposure can even be fatal.

Kitchen exhaust fan

Home exhaust fans don't just remove stale odors. They also help improve indoor air quality.

Angie's Answers

Mold in a basement is a common problem. My company helps people with this every day. Some of the answers you received were helpful but not all the information is correct. First, you need to eliminate the two main ingrediants that mold needs to survive. The first one is water intrusion. This is a must. I am assuming you have no water intrusion as you make no mention. The second componant that needs to be eliminated is moisture. Moisture is also humidity. Basements need to be kept airtight in the summer months. Some folks have posted that you need air flow in your basement. Nothing could be furthur from the truth. When you open any windows for example, not one micron of air goes out of the basement, Warm humid air is sucked into the basement. Houses suck air into the basement and it meets the cool surfaces and skyrockets humidity. The windows must be kept closed and a dehumidification device installed to ensure humidity stays below 60% humidity. The dehumidifier should be energy star rated and purchasing a seperate humidity guage is a must to monitor the unit's progress. We like to keep our customer's basements at 50% humidity. This eliminates the smell that is active mold spore growth. Once the water and humidity is brought under control. Remove the organic materials that have mold on them. Walls, sheetrock and studs that have been affected. Follow the advice of previous posts as you must ensure that you do not affect the rest of the home. Once removed, install new walls using as much inorganic material as possible. We also install vapor barrier over the walls and seal the floors to stopwater vapor transmission into the basement. Poly plastic is not a acceptable vapor barrier. It is not "zero-perm" and will still allow moisture transmission. It will also crack and break into pieces over the years. A PVC liner rated "zero-perm" is the correct product in this application. Depending how large the basement is and if it is sectioned off will determine the dehumidifier strength. We use the Santa Fe line of dehidifiers as they are super energy efficiant and work like a dehumidifier on steriods. I hope this helps and I wish you the best in Basement Health!

Is the cabin conditioned year round or at all?


Are there any grading or moisture issues that are allowing bulk moisture into the crawl?


Conditioning the crawl is usually the best answer but if it is sporadic use and/or makes better sense to leave as a vented space, you need to do the following for optimum performance:


- Install a vapor barrier across the floor.  Seal all piers and penetrations as well as seal to the stem wall.

- Insulate the underside of the floor and ideally thermally break the floor joists from the earth.

- This is best accomplished by covering the floor joist with a rigid foam and sealing all the seams.




When you say vented to the roof, do you mean into the attic UNDER the roof, or through the roof with a duct up through a roof jack into a roof hood ? Hopefully the latter, otherwise you have the likely source of the problem.

You are clearly getting moisture in this area still, so more insulation will not help and may hurt - insulation does not stop moisture but does trap it, particularly if you add enough tht the freezing front moves well down into the insulation, so vapor coming up from the house freezes in the insulation (making it wet when it thaws) rather than venting into the attic and evaporating from there.

You need an expert check on the bathroom area - that the fan unit and any light fixtures are tighly sealed to the vapor barrier. Usually they are installed with about a 1/4-1/2 inch void all around for ease of installation, and not sealed at all, so moist bathroom air vents around themm into the attic.

Then the fan unit needs checking for openings - many have openings in the plastic or metal case from manufacturing that are not sealed but should be. Do NOT use any type of unit that, because of big lights or heat lamp, says it has to be vented and cannot be sealed in, because moist air goes right up through it.

Then the duct from the fan up through the roof needs checking for leaks (and should be insulated, at least if your attic goes below freezing ever), and should have a roof jack where it penetrates the attic - a rubber seal in a metal plate that fits tightly around the duct, so the air blown into the vent hood on the roof cannot circulate back down into the attic. Most installers just cut about a 1 foot opening in the roof (especially if they can install the duct that way without having to crawl around in itchy attic insulation), run the duct up through it into the roof hood, and walk away. That leaves that big opening in the roof sheathing for the wet air and condensation in the hood to corculate right back down into the attic. Some installers (like my house whenn I first bought it) really take the easy route and don't even connect the duct to the hood - they just terminate it a foot or so below the sheathing so ALL the moist air goes into the attic.

I would also check the kitchen and any other bathroom fans for the same leak sources or improper installation, and make sure all vent pipes are intact to above the roof, and that there are no furnace or HVAC ducts disconnected or damaged that could be adding moisture.

Also look around all roof penetrations for ducts and pipes for staining on the underside of the sheathing, which would be indicative of roof hood or jack leaks that should be repaired. (Hopefully, with a new roof you would not have any).

The area most affected should have the insulation moved away and checked to see if the vapor barrier has holes or tears, openings around pipes, ducts, light boxes or wiring, or was maybe totally torn out by some prior workman. If your vapor barrier is not effective, moist household air will move into the attic almost year around, but especially in cold weather, carrying moisture into the attic, where it will condense and cause mold.

Also - if you have a fireplace chase (wood boxout around metal chimney) in that area, it may connect to the house in the firebox area and be open to the attic (which is a real fire spread hazard but for some reason is not contrary to code), letting household air flow by that route.

The mold should be brushed and vacuumed away, then treated - there are commercial sprays that are fungicides that commercial mold and mildew removal contractors have, a sprayed chlorine bleach and borax solution has also been shown to work but you would have to have an air supplied respirator and chemical suit to work with that, which only professional remediation contractors have. Do NOT paint the area - especially the underside of the roof sheathing and trusses. They needs to be able to breathe, not have any moisture from above locked in.

Stains in the attic (assuming this is an unoccupied area) can be bleached, and then if you want the evidence to go away and make it easier to tell if there is new staining or mold, sanded to remove the worst of them.

Stains on areas visible from the outside like walls and rafters can be treated with Chlorine bleach (beware of dripping on good finishes below), painted with Kilz or similar anti-fungal primer, then painted. Stains on the underside of the sheathing visible in the soffit area can be bleached and then when dry, sanded away.

Ventilation is essential, but without removing the source of most the moisture you will not win this war no matter how many times you battle it.

While I would guess the fans and vents are the problem, is there anything different about the attic ventilation to this area versus the other parts of the roof - soffit covers, blocked eave openings, insulation-clogged bug screening or soffit cover openings, lack of air chutes or eave baffles, insulation pushed up against eave opening or up against roof, horizontal blocking that prevents or obstructs airflow, no ridge vent above it, etc ?

If you are not able to find an obvious source of the moisture, I woud consider getting a thermal IR scan of the attic. For typically about $200-300 an energy conservation expert with thermal scanner can scan the attic (might have to be done at night or VERY early morning if done in summertime, to accentuate the temp difference between house air and attic air, unless you have AC in which case turning the AC down low and blower on full can work by pushing cold air rather than hot up through any gaps or voids. If you have that done, check on price to add in the rest of the house too - probably not more than about $100 more, and can show you where your air leaks and poor insulation air. You should try to get one who can provide the entire scan to you on CD or DVD, so you can review it in the future. Here is a link to some images so you know what I am talking about -



Call in the professionals.

There is no sense addressing the mold issue until you resolve the basement leaks.

High ground water that is seeping into your basement is going to lead to long term, serious damage to your foundation and basement walls.  Any mold you remove will just keep coming back.  The first question is the age of the home and whether or not you have working perimeter drain tile installed.  If you home is pretty old (30+ years) it is possible you do not have a drainiage system, or the system is clogged / deteriorated beyond function.  For a newer home, perimeter drain tile was a requirement, but doesn't mean it was installed properly.

I recommend you hire a licensed architect to review your house's construction, the site and look for indications that a drainage system is in place and functioning.  They should be able to find out where the drain comes out, and to check it (after a rain or by doing a water test) to see if it is working.  If it is working, it is possible your system is undersized or only failing in a specific area.  It is also possible a second, lower water table exists that is below your current drain system.  A site change, to change the current flow of ground water or above ground water may resolve your issue as well.  Something as simple as a new drainage ditch, retention pond or higher grades around your building may resolve your issue.

Working with a professional will prevent you from worrying about a 'draingage expert' recommending a high cost repair when another option may be available.

Some drainage people will propose installing a new perimiter drain inside your basement walls.  This system gets the water that gets through the walls and under the floor, and carries it back out.  This is a last ditch idea.  The best method, to solve the issue for good, is to dig back down to your footers, repair the waterproofing on the wall, then place drainage board over it (this protects the waterproofing while allowing moisture a travel path to your drain tile).  Then place gravel fill with geo-fabric over it, then backfill.  Now, no matter how much water you have in your ground, it will be directed away from your basement.

A sump pump in the basement to handle flooding or low water tables below your basement slab will augment this system.

Once you have the moisture issue resolved, then worry about stopping mold.  In the interim, any materials that are growing mold need to be removed (use protective measures).  Make sure you run a dehumidifier at all times and keep air moving by turning on the basement hvac vents or putting some fans in the area.

Working with a licensed architect will help ensure you pinpoint the exact problem, and have a knowledgable person to discuss the options with before doing any costly work.  The architect will also be able to assist with finding contractors and overseeing that the work is installed correctly (It is worthless to redo the drainage if any one area is not done correctly).  Good luck.


Mold Removal reviews in Williamsburg


It went very well. The mold was not as extensive as originally thought. So they did not have remove as much dry wall as expected. They sealed off the affected area with plastic and treated the areas as described above. The process was very smooth. They provided a detailed estimate and completed the work as agreed.
- Candace M.

The company was extremely efficient and professional. Everything they did was explained and we were shown the problems noted in the initial assessment and any further problems found as they worked. I highly recommend this company to anyone who has or thinks hey have mold in their home. They not only assess for mold but will do whatever is necessary ...More to remediate the mold found. Where demolition was necessary, all materials were taken out and work areas were completely cleaned by the crew. is a great company.
- Patricia P.

The manager was great, He was so knowledgeable yet never made me feel stupid for asking questions. He helped me with insurance and the whole repair didnt cost me anything. Every concern I had, he had answers. He was kind and not pushy and made me feel like he was on my side. He even talked to my home owner insurance company ...More for me. I really felt like he was honest and focused on doing the job right. It's nice to see a company that actually cares about their customers and not just putting more money into their own pockets.
- melisa B.

He arrived punctually. I explained what the purpose of the inspection test was and what I hoped to get out of the visit.
I asked him numerous questions regarding the odor in the basement that I was concerned about and about visible mold.
He did not appear to answer my questions directly and I felt I had to keep asking the same questions ...More repeatedly to get the answers I was looking for. In addition, he did not appear willing to elaborate on the answers and dd not satisfy my questions.
He explained that he would email me the results of the test in about a week. When I received the email, it was simply a chart that was forwarded to me that showed numbers that I did not understand and the types of mold.
In the body of the email he sent me, he wrote a few paragraphs stating that remediation was recommended.
At no point did he contact me by phone to ask if I received the results and at no point did he ask me if I had any questions regarding the results. Not only did he not offer to write a page or two to explain what the results signified or how it applied to my current odor or mold situation, but when I asked if he could, he explained that my $99 I spent did not warrant him to put it in writing.
I explained that there was no way for me to be able to interpret the results of the charts he simply forwarded me from the lab company in Florida due to my extremely limited knowledge of mold, and he responded that all I need to do was ask him questions.
The whole situation appeared unprofessional to me and he did not even seem willing to answer my questions over the phone and the responses he provided appeared vague and too general.
In other words, in my opinion, he did not seem to really want to help me. It would have even been nice, though of course not required, to even have contacted me and explain that though he could not write a report, but for example, that he could take the time to make another visit and go over the results in person.
- Hyun P.

Service tech on time appointed - worked efficiently, thoroughly, professional in demeanor & presentation.

My wife and I were very pleased with the service. Very professional and knowledgeable small business owner. We will use him again should the need arise.
- James W.

Outstanding work is done by . Professional service, arrived on time. Report provided was very comprehensive.
- Nik A.

He thinks the mold is not too bad and was caused by a wet summer and closed crawl space. Advise to turn on the A/C to remove the humidity in the air. No remedy needed.
- Jinji Y.

Mold Removal Experts in Williamsburg, VA

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

Brand Home Inspections LLC

3869 Forest Glen Rd.
Virginia Beach

Bug Busters Pest Control Services Inc.

1400 W. Third St.

C&C Complete Services

7339 Old Alexandria Ferry Rd

CSI Home and Commercial Services

10822 A Courthouse Rd

D&D Environmental Contractors

10702 Stoner Dr


14980 Davis Rd
Church Road

Emergency Restoration Services LLC

1461 London Bridge Road
Virginia Beach

Environmental Control Opportunities LLC

4016 Hampton Dr

GearClean Inc.

150 Commercial Street

Jenkins Restorations

533 Byron St

JES Foundation Repair

1741 Corporate Landing Parkway
Virginia Beach

Loyal Termite & Pest Control Inc

2610 E Parham Rd


8245-A Backlick Rd

Michael & Son Svc Inc

5740 General Washington Dr


2501 Mayes Road

Paramount Builders Inc

12940 Plaza Dr

Pic Organic Mold Remediation Solutions

4110 Melwood Road, Suite #1

PuroClean Emergency Restoration

1490-5A Quarterpath Rd

Rector's Property Maintenance

801 colonial ave
Colonial Beach

RGN Electrical Group LLC

13386 Cleeve Hill Ct

Rivah Remodeling & Repair LLC

PO Box 1483

Rolyn Companies

2850 Ansol Lane
Virginia Beach

Royal T Home Inspection LLC

10005 Southwick Ct

ServiceMaster by Farrar Holden

8530 George Washington Memorial Hwy.


133 Powhatan Springs Rd

The Crews Team of Keller Williams

923 Maple Gorve Dr.

Triangle Sealants Corporation

PO Box 6128

TT & K Services LLC

234 Whitson Run

Virginia Basement

PO Box 244

Virtus Group - National Team

8765 Stockyard Drive



Williamsburg Maintenance Inc

8995 Pocahontas Trl

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