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Salem Drain Pipe Contractors from people just like you.

A
"They added a cleanout in two places to facilitate keeping the drains clear of leaves, etc. Very well engineered and the work was performed in the time frame promised.

-David L.

A
"The project went great from start to finish. If you are seeking any drainage or crawlspace work, you don't need to look any further. All the other Angie's" list comments attesting to their fine work is true. You won't find anyone better. They are very knowledgeable, prompt, very conscientious, they cleaned up daily, etc.
went above and beyond the work required and helped me out with a few things. He did not charge me for two additional vent wells that were needed. Also, he was going to pick up decorative rock in Nashville and while he was there he got me some and spread it for me as well. This company goes above and beyond the call of duty, and I couldn't recommend them more highly. Use them and you will be glad you did!

-Connie S.

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Angie's Answers

?

First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.

 

Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.

?

From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

?
It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!
?

Well , you've certainly started a debate that will endure forever , but personally , having worked with both products , PEX is a better product . Now granted , the 1st time i used it

I was not impressed , cause it leaked.......NOT because the product was at fault, it was because I did not understand how to use the product !

The trick to using Pex , is to make certain that the fittings seat, they MUST be pushed together with force, and if you do not push with force to get the seat to seal, it leaks .

Therefore , when using PEX , you have constantly to be aware of leaving room to make your connections -Properly !

The beauty of PEX is that it bends , it is flexible and decreases the labor factor ,although the connection costs are often 100-300 % higher than copper , but again , it can cut labor costs in half  and it is safer to work with,  NO FLAMEs!

?
FYI: CPVC and PEX are two different materials and installed differently.  PEX is not intended to be glued but instead has special crimp fittings.  PEX is a brand name of one product that is manufactured slightly differently by others as well so it is important that the same brand fittings are used to match the pipe material.

Mobile homes used CPVC for years and some still do.  It works fine but is not as strong as a properly soldered copper pipe system.  Is the contractor installing this new plumbing a licensed plumber?  I'd be surprised if he is since he's using CPVC and not PEX (or similar) or copper.  PEX pipe is even cheaper than CPVC when run by a knowledgable plumber.  It doesn't require nearly as many joints since it comes in rolls and can flex through spaces easily.

There are some groups raising a fuss about BPA and other chemicals found in plastics that don't like the use of CPVC, PVC, or PEX pipe.  I haven't seen the results of any lab tests to confirm or dispute their concerns.  As far as durability goes it's fairly safe as long as it's properly installed and secured.  It is not as susceptible to hard water damage as copper.  It absolutely must be insulated along it's entire length to protect it from contact to other materials as well as freezing.  Also, the fixtures in the house need to be grounded electrically since the pipe itself provides no electrical protection against accidental shock or electrocution.  In a copper plumbed house the system is grounded so static electricity, a short in a wire near a water line, or lightning strike will carry the current out through the pipe instead of through the water to you, ideally.

If it's installed correctly you should be fine but make sure the contractor knows what he is doing and follows the proper procedures to use CPVC pipe.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
www.thomeservices.com
?
It is usually cheaper to remove part of the ceiling below and patch it after the leak has been repaired.  Remember that water can travel before settling in one area, causing the spot you've seen.  Just because it is below the toilet does not mean that the toilet is the problem.  The cheapest option is to pull the toilet and check the floor around the wax ring to see if it has been leaking.  A new wax ring only costs a few dollars.  When was the last time you caulked the shower in that bathroom?  The water can leak around the corners or at the door (if you have one) and travel along the floor joists until it pools in a lower spot on the ceiling below, then seep through.  It could also be a seal at the drain of the tub or shower. 

I get a few calls a year for this sort of thing.  It's usually something simple but can be a nightmare to diagnose, especially if the problem is intermittent.  Start with the simple possibilities and use deductive reasoning to narrow the possibilities.  Before you do a lot of damage it may pay off to hire a reputable contractor to help you make sure you've exhausted all of the imple and more obvious possibilities.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services

Drain Pipe Installation reviews in Salem

C

Rating
Contract made with company months ago. Unresponsive. Multiple calls have been made and still no response. Losing faith in company. Cannot wait any longer on contract that was made months ago. Talked to people at the office who have told me I would be contacted by owner, yet no word from him has been made.
- Phil S.
A

Rating
We bought an older house ( 1955 ) that had been remodelled in 2013. The house had some previous settling issues, but it seems like the guys who remodeled bolstered the foundation and just built along the settling at a slight grade(!!). Anyway, we were concerned about any further settling that could happen and called around for quotes and inspections. Of the three people we used,
Salem Drain Pipe Contractors Provider Name Locked
was the most reasonable, affordable and easy to talk to.
Salem Drain Pipe Contractors Provider Name Locked
, the estimator, was honest and did not try to scare us into getting more expensive repairs that the other two contractors recommended.
They laid down a slab under our footing to ensure no more settling occurs and warranted it for 20 years ( transferable). They also routed a couple of our downspouts away from the house to an external drywell that they built, to make sure no more water stagnation happened near the foundation.
Overall, the job was done very well barring some minor issues with cleanup which I didn't mind doing at all. We are very glad we went with
Salem Drain Pipe Contractors Provider Name Locked
and will go with them again if need be.
- Avanidhar C.
A

Rating
After getting a $15,000 quote from
Salem Drain Pipe Contractors Provider Name Locked
to do the job, their quote was $2,500 for poly or $3,500 for copper. We went with the poly since it meant one long run from the meter to the house. Copper would have meant having to dig up more yard, and several solder joints along the way. They have a great process where the only dig at the meter and at the house. I watched them do it and it was pretty cool. They have an attachment that they use that slices through the old line while guiding the new line through it underground. No digging a 200 foot trench through my yard. They kept my yard clean, even going so far as to put the top
Salem Drain Pipe Contractors Provider Name Locked
of grass back so it hardly looked like anything had been done.
Nice guys, great work, and great prices. I would definitely use them again.
- Edward L.
A

Rating
I cannot say enough about
Salem Drain Pipe Contractors Provider Name Locked
, who is an owner of
Salem Drain Pipe Contractors Provider Name Locked
. I have used his services twice; first, for a house we decided not to purchase, in part because of his evaluation, and second, for the house we did indeed purchase, whose septic system passed with flying colors.
This is a company with genuine good will, and who goes above and beyond to do the best for their customers. In a cold and driving rain,
Salem Drain Pipe Contractors Provider Name Locked
cheerfully and thoroughly did the tough and dirty work of digging holes, inserting cameras, and leaving no stone unturned in finding any problems. He is an excellent communicator; always willing to phone and email and address any questions and concerns. He also makes himself available if anything comes up in the future. In addition, his prices are extremely fair.
I highly recommend this company without hesitation, and will use his services again for any other excavation projects.
- Dale A.
A

Rating
We contacted several water main line service providers and their estimate is rocket high. Some of them gave us a nightmare by going through what could be wrong and the amount of work that they had to perform. However,
Salem Drain Pipe Contractors Provider Name Locked
responded to our call and be at our house within an hour for the estimate.
Salem Drain Pipe Contractors Provider Name Locked
was very patient with us in explaining the work, the pro/cons of different methods, his recommendations, and finally the price is much less than what other providers quoted.
Salem Drain Pipe Contractors Provider Name Locked
was punctual, and his crew is totally professional and performed excellent work. I came back from work and could not even tell that they were here. All my garden bushes are properly planted where they were, the work location is clean thoroughly and the yard is in perfect shape. I am amazed at the quality of work and the professionalism that
Salem Drain Pipe Contractors Provider Name Locked
and his crew performed. Highly recommended
Salem Drain Pipe Contractors Provider Name Locked
and his crew. And thank you for the great work,
Salem Drain Pipe Contractors Provider Name Locked
!
- Hiep V.
F

Rating
Sales person warned me that they would be destroy the lawn. What I didn't realize was that they would be leaving 3 ft mounds of dirt all the way from the house to the ally, about 50ft, that I will be responsible for getting rid of. They told me it would settle, and there is no way that will happen. They said it would be an extra charge to fix the yard. They also destroyed my fence and garden. They didn't even bother to repair the damage.
- Aaron S.
A

Rating
I called
Salem Drain Pipe Contractors Provider Name Locked
and set up an appointment for the next afternoon.
Salem Drain Pipe Contractors Provider Name Locked
was on time, listened to what we had in mind for a new gravel driveway and clearing and grading two other portions of our property.
Salem Drain Pipe Contractors Provider Name Locked
shared options on what they could do and what the costs would be. He was very knowledgeable and interested in our projects. His work schedule was three weeks out, so we booked a date when he would be available; his crew was out on time, worked diligently and did a very nice job. I highly recommend
Salem Drain Pipe Contractors Provider Name Locked
and would use them again.
- LARRY J.
A

Rating
He arrived on time and got right to work. He checked out the gutters and the downspout. He was very thorough and was here quite a while. It was good to hear that the downspout and outside drain were clear and that the problem is just with the gutters which will have to be done soon.
- MARY G.

Drain Pipe Contractors in Salem, VA

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

Art's Plumbing Services

513 Wentworth Ave
Roanoke

AS IT STANDS HOME IMPROVEMENTS

6159 Jeters Chapel Rd
Vinton

BLR Services

4509 renfro blvd.

Bratton General Contracting LLC

25 Graystone Drive
Daleville

Cahaba Scapes

2130 11th avenue north

Classic Plumbing Solutions

923 Florida St
Salem

Community Housing Partners

448 Depot St NE
Christiansburg

Crockett Home Improvement Inc

1255 Radford St
Christiansburg

CT Redd Construction Inc

165 Clancie Rd
Shacklefords

Eades Plumbing & Tile Services

5436 Lakeland Dr
Roanoke

Evergreen Basement Systems

456 Old Coutrhouse Rd
Appomattox

J & D Masonry Inc

1425 Boone Rd
Shawsville

J & M Handyman Service

4602 Renfro Blvd NW
Roanoke

JES Foundation Repair

1741 Corporate Landing Parkway
Virginia Beach

JP Plumbing Services

1012 Fentress St N.W.
Roanoke

LARRY HARTMAN & SON INC

5151 STARKEY RD
Roanoke

Lira Plumbing

1802 Avon Rd SW
Roanoke

M.A. Turner Construction Inc.

PO Box 115
Daleville

Masterpiece Landscape Contracting

823 Duke of Gloucester St.
Roanoke

Noah Construction

521 Tennessee St
Salem

NRV Home Improvement

201 Roanoke street
Christiansburg

Penn Forest Services

1114 Moorman Ave NW
Roanoke

Perpetual Landscaping & Design

325 Crafts Ford Court
Wirtz

Pitman Service Group (PSG)

404 Walnut Ave SE
Roanoke

Quality Landscaping and Maintenance

709 Shelbourne Avenue
Vinton

Roanoke Landscapes

183 Shane Ln
Fincastle

Ryan Plumbing and Heating

1191 Mountain Ave
Salem

Seal-Tite Basement Waterproofing Company

355 Olde Rte 604
Troutville

Stanleydemo

902 Bridge St SW
Roanoke

TJS Enterprises Inc

5139 Starkey Ln
Roanoke

VALLEY LANDSCAPING

750 DEN HILL RD
Christiansburg

VARSITY LANDSCAPING & GROUNDS

5125 STARKEY LN
Roanoke

Xpert Foundations Inc

19309 Winmeade Drive #103
Landsdowne

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