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were great -- very professional and explained what they were doing? all told! it was a big job and they completed it in a timely manner.

-Linda W.

"One company estimated a week before they could effect the repair to the main water line but
showed up about an hour after I contacted the" company, and provided me with an estimate of what needed to be done and cost to include how it would be repaired. Work started early the next day and continued all day until the repair was completed, except for the inspection needed by the city and covering up the line. All workers were professional and worked continuously all day in Texas hot weather. The timeliness of this repair was well appreciated due to the nature of the leak and
understood our concern and acted appropriately. The cost of the repair was in the range I expected it to be, especially since it was the main water line which ran under the driveway. All my questions, and I had many, were quickly answered throughout the process. I am recommending this company to my neighbors.

-Jon P.

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Local Articles in Radford

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Angie's Answers


First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.


Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.


From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!

Well , you've certainly started a debate that will endure forever , but personally , having worked with both products , PEX is a better product . Now granted , the 1st time i used it

I was not impressed , cause it leaked.......NOT because the product was at fault, it was because I did not understand how to use the product !

The trick to using Pex , is to make certain that the fittings seat, they MUST be pushed together with force, and if you do not push with force to get the seat to seal, it leaks .

Therefore , when using PEX , you have constantly to be aware of leaving room to make your connections -Properly !

The beauty of PEX is that it bends , it is flexible and decreases the labor factor ,although the connection costs are often 100-300 % higher than copper , but again , it can cut labor costs in half  and it is safer to work with,  NO FLAMEs!

Plumber reviews in Radford


Technician was professional and informative. He checked every fitting and explained why they are so interested in making sure that the job they did has been successful.
- James G.

The provider was very courteous and clean on the first visit when they diagnosed the AC problem and quoted the furnace/AC units. After selecting units and signing the contract for the new furnace and AC, the provider said that they had to put a sign in my front yard. I disagreed with the provider and said that the sign was not part of the contract. We haggled for a bit and came to the agreement that the provider would put the sign in my lawn and I would immediately removed it and put it in my garage until after the final service was complete and the provider would take the sign back.
The installation of the AC and furnace went smoothly. Again the installers were very courteous, punctual, and fast. During the installation, they cut some PVC pipe and didn't vacuum it up. I was disappointed that they made the effort to wear booties on their shoes, but couldn't pick up their trash.
Also, the installers removed the maintenance history sticker of the adjacent water heater and put their logo sticker on the water heater. At no time during the install or quote was the water heater even discussed. Now I have lost the maintenance history for my water heater. I feel that it was slightly arrogant of the provider to tag other equipment.
- Donnie B.

We called them about cleaning out a drain in a bath tub. Unlike my
previous calls, they told my wife that we had to pay for a technician to
come out and examine it. Really? It's a clogged drain. Very
- William L.

Scheduling was easy and painless. However I didn't much appreciate the 6-hour time window from 8AM to 2PM. It seem like if I'm not the first person on the schedule, 8AM shouldn't be under consideration. But maybe they have to reschedule so many appointments that a wide window makes sense. The plumber showed up closer to 1PM, after a 15 minute courtesy call prior to arrival.
The work was done well (at least so far it seems) and quickly. It probably only took the plumber 10 minutes to do the work. It probably just as long for him to write up the invoice.
The invoice was disappointing. It described the work that was performed, but it didn't itemize anything. I understand the service charge was ~$110 (because I didn't want to subscribe to the service plan which would have saved me the service charge). I think the parts required cost about $20. So I got charged $300+ for 20 minutes of labor?
I can't say that I won't use
Radford Plumbers Provider Name Locked
plumbing again, but they're probably not going to be my first choice. And this little experience is probably going to color my decision when it comes time to renew my HVAC service contract.
- Rachel N.

They were extremely timely, because we were in an emergency situation, with company coming a few days later. Our frantic phone call for help was answered, and they were able to get to the problem that day. Since we had a few other plumbing problems that contributed to the disaster as well, they were available, and were very courteous, and helpful. Nick the Plumber has a great team. Nick,
Radford Plumbers Provider Name Locked
, Treven and
Radford Plumbers Provider Name Locked
were professional, and very pleasant, answered our questions, and treated us with fairness, and respect. We have already recommended this company,
Radford Plumbers Provider Name Locked
to our family, and to our neighbors.
- Dennis B.

Went very well.
Radford Plumbers Provider Name Locked
I was professional and clearly an expert in his trade. He is also very customer service oriented. Hope he continues his employment with
Radford Plumbers Provider Name Locked
for many more years! Great experience.
- Janine S.

Radford Plumbers Provider Name Locked
installing my sprinkle system and my water heater with affordable price he is professional he did a fantastic job I all ways recomand Best plumber at all. Thank you
Radford Plumbers Provider Name Locked
- Bereket J.

I called and made the appointment and told them about the 2 problems. We scheduled the visit for today. He came on time and he was just so pleasant! He got the job done in no time and now, all is well. He also suggested I contact my
Radford Plumbers Provider Name Locked
and get a replacement kit for my toilet because it's a rare corner toilet and finding parts may be difficult should I ever need them. I so appreciated that!
- Shirley G.

Plumbers in Radford, VA

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A&S Home Repair,LLC

85 Applewood Drive

A.T. Plumbing


Affordable Home Maintenance, LLC

6689 Poages Mill Dr.

Appalachian Building Concepts

2237 Paris Mountain Rd

Aquarius Plumbing

PO Box 116

Art's Plumbing Services

513 Wentworth Ave

Bath Fitter

1358 Roanoke Blvd.

Cahaba Scapes

2130 11th avenue north

Collier Services

PO BOX 1558

Community Housing Partners

448 Depot St NE

Crockett Home Improvement Inc

1255 Radford St

Custom Construction Company, Inc.

7539 Milk-A-Way Drive

DirectBuy of Indianapolis

8450 Westfield Blvd

E A Construction Inc

995 Beaver Dr

Eades Plumbing & Tile Services

5436 Lakeland Dr

Enquist Enterprises Inc.

2126 Winston Ave SW

Eye's & Lee's

2133 Kings Charles Ave SE

Family Plumbing & Heating

3558 Angus Ln

Ferguson Counter

1717 W Main St

Friedman Home Improvement

109 Yorkshire Ct

J.C. Plumbing, Inc.

662 Clovis St

Jerome's Heating & Cooling

P.O. box 13102

JM Campbell, Inc.

5678 mt. tabor rd.

JP Plumbing Services

1012 Fentress St N.W.

JT Roach Plumbing

4814 Bandy Rd

Kevin Hiatt Plumbing


Kitchen & Bath Ideas


Lira Plumbing

1802 Avon Rd SW

M&R Residential

300 Union St

Major Home Appliance Svc

800 Kabrich St

Mark's Home Improvement

5215 Starkey Road SW

Martin Services

3787 Rutrough Rd

Mcguire Construction

P.O. Box 621

McKinney Plumbing and Remodeling

4704 Renfro Blvd. NW

Mighty Dad Flooring & Home Repair

900 Ingleside Ln


2965 E Washington Ave.

Noah Construction

521 Tennessee St

NRV Home Improvement

201 Roanoke street


5195 Marshall St

R & J Renovations

1224 Abbott Ave

Remodel USA

605 Hampton Park Blvd

Ridgeway Plumbing

423 Fairfax St

RK Restorations, LLC.

1208 S Thomas Street

Rogers Plumbing and Trenching

1319 Main St

Rome Mechanical

310 Ferguson Dr

S. J. Conner & Sons, Inc.

1639 Seibel Drive NE

South River Contracting Of Roanoke

5130 Hildebrand Rd

Southwest Sunroom & Window Co.


Thomas Johnson Plumbing

1910 Snider Ln

Tyler's Trade, Inc.

907 Blandford Ave.

W C Butler Heating & Air

301 Walnut Ave

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