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A
"Each time we've had them come they have been on time, explained exactly what they were going to do, did the work, cleaned up any mess and explained everything" that had been done. The technician answers questions and offers advice on how to prevent problems too. We will have them back every year, and whenever else there is a problem with the sewer.

-Sarah F.

A
"I have used
for a good number of years, calling them every time I have a drain problem. This company is great and I recommend them to everyone." They are knowledgeable and very honest. This time a drain in my basement was backing up. The provider checked it out and assessed that my septic tank was my problem. They went out to the septic tank and took a look and found that it was filled completely to the top. They recommended that I call someone to drain the septic system and call someone to assess my problem. I did this and as it turned out, they were correct.

-Suzanne S.

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Angie's Answers

?

First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.

 

Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.

?

From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

?
It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!
?

Well , you've certainly started a debate that will endure forever , but personally , having worked with both products , PEX is a better product . Now granted , the 1st time i used it

I was not impressed , cause it leaked.......NOT because the product was at fault, it was because I did not understand how to use the product !

The trick to using Pex , is to make certain that the fittings seat, they MUST be pushed together with force, and if you do not push with force to get the seat to seal, it leaks .

Therefore , when using PEX , you have constantly to be aware of leaving room to make your connections -Properly !

The beauty of PEX is that it bends , it is flexible and decreases the labor factor ,although the connection costs are often 100-300 % higher than copper , but again , it can cut labor costs in half  and it is safer to work with,  NO FLAMEs!

?
FYI: CPVC and PEX are two different materials and installed differently.  PEX is not intended to be glued but instead has special crimp fittings.  PEX is a brand name of one product that is manufactured slightly differently by others as well so it is important that the same brand fittings are used to match the pipe material.

Mobile homes used CPVC for years and some still do.  It works fine but is not as strong as a properly soldered copper pipe system.  Is the contractor installing this new plumbing a licensed plumber?  I'd be surprised if he is since he's using CPVC and not PEX (or similar) or copper.  PEX pipe is even cheaper than CPVC when run by a knowledgable plumber.  It doesn't require nearly as many joints since it comes in rolls and can flex through spaces easily.

There are some groups raising a fuss about BPA and other chemicals found in plastics that don't like the use of CPVC, PVC, or PEX pipe.  I haven't seen the results of any lab tests to confirm or dispute their concerns.  As far as durability goes it's fairly safe as long as it's properly installed and secured.  It is not as susceptible to hard water damage as copper.  It absolutely must be insulated along it's entire length to protect it from contact to other materials as well as freezing.  Also, the fixtures in the house need to be grounded electrically since the pipe itself provides no electrical protection against accidental shock or electrocution.  In a copper plumbed house the system is grounded so static electricity, a short in a wire near a water line, or lightning strike will carry the current out through the pipe instead of through the water to you, ideally.

If it's installed correctly you should be fine but make sure the contractor knows what he is doing and follows the proper procedures to use CPVC pipe.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
www.thomeservices.com
?
It is usually cheaper to remove part of the ceiling below and patch it after the leak has been repaired.  Remember that water can travel before settling in one area, causing the spot you've seen.  Just because it is below the toilet does not mean that the toilet is the problem.  The cheapest option is to pull the toilet and check the floor around the wax ring to see if it has been leaking.  A new wax ring only costs a few dollars.  When was the last time you caulked the shower in that bathroom?  The water can leak around the corners or at the door (if you have one) and travel along the floor joists until it pools in a lower spot on the ceiling below, then seep through.  It could also be a seal at the drain of the tub or shower. 

I get a few calls a year for this sort of thing.  It's usually something simple but can be a nightmare to diagnose, especially if the problem is intermittent.  Start with the simple possibilities and use deductive reasoning to narrow the possibilities.  Before you do a lot of damage it may pay off to hire a reputable contractor to help you make sure you've exhausted all of the imple and more obvious possibilities.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services

Drain Cleaning reviews in Hopewell

A

Rating
It went really well: quick response, professional and high quality service, friendly and attentive worker.
- David Z.
A

Rating
I have used him for 8 years for any and every plumbing problem. I had to relocate and I really wish I could bring him with me. He is very kind and goes for beyond what is expected of him. He is very honest and a hard worker. Even though I have relocated, he still allows me to call him and ask general questions. If I had a major problem where I am now, I'd probably fly him in to take care of it.
- Patricia J.
F

Rating
I did not enjoy my experience with this company. The plumber who came out immediately told me that I needed to buy new toilets, that were very expensive, instead of repairing the problem. He also told me that I needed a brand new faucet, because the one I have is "cheap" and not worth the fix. I will not be using their services in the future.
- Paula P.
A

Rating
We contacted
Hopewell Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
on a Tuesday and he was able to come out the next day and accommodate our schedule. He arrived on time and was finished within an hour. The sink in our upstairs bathroom had become plugged and we tried everything we could think of to fix it, however, whatever was plugging the drain was beyond our reach. He quickly had the drain cleared and we can finally use the sink again! The cost was reasonable compared to what other companies were charging.
- Darice D.
A

Rating
Overall, I would give Roto Rooter plumber "Dallas" an "A" for his work. He was very personable, clearly explained the problem and how he was fixing it, and successfully opened the drain. He does very good work.
- Lynda C.
C

Rating
Because I felt they were trying to take advantage of me, I had the work performed by a different company even though that meant paying for everything (the water heater, installation of same, and the code upgrades) entirely out of my own pocket.
- Denise B.
A

Rating
Both times I?ve called they?ve been out the same day. The dispatcher always gives me a time when they?ll be there. The plumbers are always punctual. I wouldn?t hesitate to use them again. Any plumbing issue I associate with
Hopewell Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
for a solution. They also carry a book with them and they can quote you the job before the work begins. That way there are no surprises at the end.
- Randall S.
A

Rating
Phenomenally!!!! Very polite, professional, trustworthy and knowledgeable. Will not hesitate to use Will again. Very thorough, and diligent with follow-up. Thanks! I could go on, but that's enough. Heartily recommended.
- Larry H.

Drain Cleaning Companies in Hopewell, VA

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A & J Home Remodeling

3212 South 13th Rd
Arlington

A-Z Handyman Services LLC

3108 Jackson Farm Rd
Hopewell

A.E.I. Installations

PO Box 2949
Mechanicsville

Absolute Plumbing & Mechanical

PO Box 5825
Midlothian

All About Plumbing Service & Repair

5116 Carters Pond Ct
Henrico

All City Drain Cleaning Inc

PO Box 1702
Hopewell

Alliance Air & Duct Inc

10301 Hull Street Road
Midlothian

allphase home repair and improvements

9741 Fordwych Dr
Richmond

ANP Plumbing LLC

4558 Market Rd

BAZ Construction

8 Raines Ave
Sandston

Best Price Plumbing Inc.

11324 Longtown Drive
Midlothian

Bubbas Handyman Service

3803 Chamberlayne Ave
Richmond

Bug Busters Pest Control Services Inc.

1400 W. Third St.
Farmville

C.J.R. Plumbing LLC

6942 Mason Run Drive
Richmond

Chase Inc

100 Oak Glen St
Richmond

Colonial Plumbing & Heating Co., Inc.

114 Charlotte Ave
Colonial Heights

D2D Contractors, LLC

2281 Walsh ave
Petersburg

Davenport Mechanical

401 Old Country Ter
Midlothian

Dennis W. Spiller General Contracting LLC

1404 Rhode Island Ave.
Glen Allen

Dr. Tom, LLC.

18140 Shumans Rd
Ruther Glen

Dynamic Drain Technologies LLC

2597 Quality Ct.
Virginia Beach

Ferguson Mechanical, LLC

4700 Brookridge Rd
Chesterfield

Flinn's Rooter Service LLC

P.O. Box 4952
Midlothian

Foley Plumbing Inc

6583 Merchant Place
Warrenton

FOSTER PLUMBING & HEATING, INC.

11301 BUSINESS CENTER DR.
Richmond

G & C's Home Improvement, LLC

PO Box 2875
Chesterfield

Green Home Plumbing

3117 Forest Hill Ave
Richmond

GUIRKIN PLUMBING & HEATING

8447 Glazebrook Avenue
Henrico

Handyman Perfection, LLC

8404 Yolanda Road
Henrico

Harrison Construction LLC

PO Box 2001
Midlothian

James River Air Conditioning Co.

1905 Westmorland St
Richmond

JAMES RIVER CONTRACTOR INC

13515 Lawing Drive
Chester

Jarratt Plumbing

205 North Mesa Drive
Hopewell

Joe P Clark Inc

5518 Mcclellan Rd
Mechanicsville

Larry the Plumber LLC

Providence Forge

Levic Construction Company Inc

11912 Middlecoff Dr
Chester

M R ELLIS & SONS INCORPORATED

6803 STAPLES MILL RD
Henrico

Mendoza, Dr. Israel R.

2303 N Parham Rd
Henrico

Michael & Son Services Richmond

1407 Cummings Drive
Richmond

Mid-Atlantic Waterproofing of VA

8382 Terminal Rd
Lorton

Mike Wilson Plumbing

9419 Brocket dr
Midlothian

Mr Rooter Of Richmond

718 Grove Rd
Richmond

MURPHEY INC

21 W 21st St
Richmond

NOBLE HOME REPAIRS

PO BOX 35181
Richmond

Pay less plumbing services.

5466 Mechanicsville Turnpike
Mechanicsville

Perfect Contracting Corp.

9361 Springmount Terrace
Chesterfield

Perfect Plumbing LLC

606 Roxbury Industrial Ctr
Charles City

Quality For Less, LLC

15597 John Diskin Circle
Woodbridge

R B Contractor, Inc

55244 South Ave
Alexandria

Renovate America

2704 Timber Court
Henrico

Rhodes Construction Co

1220 Richeson Ave
Richmond

Richmond Plumbing LLC

9467 Manorwood Dr
Mechanicsville

Richmond Window Corporation

2810 W Cary St
Richmond

SLIGH PLUMBING & HEATING CO

208 S 15TH AVE
Hopewell

Spotlight Builders

9200 Belcherwood Rd
Chesterfield

STEPHENS PLUMBING SOLUTIONS INC

9404 FARMINGTON CT
Henrico

STONEMAN HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING

1636 E OAK LAKE BLVD
Midlothian

Temperature Control Mechanical Services

11197 Leadbetter Rd
Ashland

The Plumbing Crew

9955 Royerton Drive
Henrico

TP&L Contracting Services

PO Box 37311
Richmond

Trogdon Enterprises

PO Box 74292
North Chesterfield

TRUESERV INC

8366 LITTLE FLORIDA RD
Mechanicsville

Tyson Cleaning and Caregiver Service

7556 Prarie Rd.
Richmond

WADE STATON PLUMBING

1920 HUGUENOT TRAIL
Powhatan

White Glove Plumbing - Heating & Air

2606 Oak Lake Blvd
Midlothian

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