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Over 5,909 reviews for
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"I called with drain blockage and overflow problem.
was there same day. Made an honest attempt to clear blockage and solve the problem but" the line to the drywell could not be repaired without digging it up to determine where the failure occurred.
showed me what was going on and explained everything thoroughly every step of the way. He had to reroute the gray water lines into the septic line and made the time to do it the same day. He wrote up the cost and presented the estimate before starting the work for approval. He cleaned up everything before he left. We could not have asked for better service or resolution.

-Kathryn P.

"I called on Monday afternoon, August 24, 2015, and the girl who answered the phone said they could send somebody out between 2 p.m. and 4 p.m. on Tuesday, August" 25, which was fine for me, because I am off in the afternoon. Nobody showed up by 4 pm, so I called and set an appointment for 9 the next morning (when I had to take off work). The plumber showed up a little after 9 p.m. the next morning. I had to chase his truck down, because, fortunately, I saw it pass my house. He was professional, and took about 2 hours to set up his equipment, clean out the drain, and take his equipment out. We did not need him to take off or install the toilet again, because my dad did that (he's handy around the house), otherwise it would have cost more. Before he started the plumber asked if the pipes were still connected to the septic tank. I couldn't understand him at first, because his English wasn't that great, and he had to call the lady at the company to tell me what he was saying. We're in Hialeah, so I expect that all the time. He understood everything when you talked to him about the plumbing, though. Anyway, as far as we could remember, the septic tank was not connected to the plumbing, and might even have been dug up years ago. After that he proceeded to do his job, and after it was done, I paid him in cash (he also would have taken a check), and gave him a tip (he didn't ask for one). The drains are now fine.

-Vivian S.

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Angie's Answers


First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.


Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.


From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!

Well , you've certainly started a debate that will endure forever , but personally , having worked with both products , PEX is a better product . Now granted , the 1st time i used it

I was not impressed , cause it leaked.......NOT because the product was at fault, it was because I did not understand how to use the product !

The trick to using Pex , is to make certain that the fittings seat, they MUST be pushed together with force, and if you do not push with force to get the seat to seal, it leaks .

Therefore , when using PEX , you have constantly to be aware of leaving room to make your connections -Properly !

The beauty of PEX is that it bends , it is flexible and decreases the labor factor ,although the connection costs are often 100-300 % higher than copper , but again , it can cut labor costs in half  and it is safer to work with,  NO FLAMEs!

FYI: CPVC and PEX are two different materials and installed differently.  PEX is not intended to be glued but instead has special crimp fittings.  PEX is a brand name of one product that is manufactured slightly differently by others as well so it is important that the same brand fittings are used to match the pipe material.

Mobile homes used CPVC for years and some still do.  It works fine but is not as strong as a properly soldered copper pipe system.  Is the contractor installing this new plumbing a licensed plumber?  I'd be surprised if he is since he's using CPVC and not PEX (or similar) or copper.  PEX pipe is even cheaper than CPVC when run by a knowledgable plumber.  It doesn't require nearly as many joints since it comes in rolls and can flex through spaces easily.

There are some groups raising a fuss about BPA and other chemicals found in plastics that don't like the use of CPVC, PVC, or PEX pipe.  I haven't seen the results of any lab tests to confirm or dispute their concerns.  As far as durability goes it's fairly safe as long as it's properly installed and secured.  It is not as susceptible to hard water damage as copper.  It absolutely must be insulated along it's entire length to protect it from contact to other materials as well as freezing.  Also, the fixtures in the house need to be grounded electrically since the pipe itself provides no electrical protection against accidental shock or electrocution.  In a copper plumbed house the system is grounded so static electricity, a short in a wire near a water line, or lightning strike will carry the current out through the pipe instead of through the water to you, ideally.

If it's installed correctly you should be fine but make sure the contractor knows what he is doing and follows the proper procedures to use CPVC pipe.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
It is usually cheaper to remove part of the ceiling below and patch it after the leak has been repaired.  Remember that water can travel before settling in one area, causing the spot you've seen.  Just because it is below the toilet does not mean that the toilet is the problem.  The cheapest option is to pull the toilet and check the floor around the wax ring to see if it has been leaking.  A new wax ring only costs a few dollars.  When was the last time you caulked the shower in that bathroom?  The water can leak around the corners or at the door (if you have one) and travel along the floor joists until it pools in a lower spot on the ceiling below, then seep through.  It could also be a seal at the drain of the tub or shower. 

I get a few calls a year for this sort of thing.  It's usually something simple but can be a nightmare to diagnose, especially if the problem is intermittent.  Start with the simple possibilities and use deductive reasoning to narrow the possibilities.  Before you do a lot of damage it may pay off to hire a reputable contractor to help you make sure you've exhausted all of the imple and more obvious possibilities.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services

Drain Cleaning reviews in Glen Allen


Punctual. Clean.
Determined what cartrages he needed. Replaced hose bib. Then he had to go get the cartrages. Returned with cartrages and replaced them. Then he replaced the undersink valve and tubing. He cleaned up everything before he left.

We called them to clear the tub drain, which we thought might have been the cause of an occasional foul odor in the bathroom.
Glen Allen Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
snaked the tub drain, found the root cause of the "clog" (a loose screw in the drain). Since there really wasn't a real clog, we talked further about what might be causing the odor. After I mentioned the toilet was recently re-seated after we tiled the bathroom floor, he suggested the root cause might be a bad toilet seal (wax ring), even though there was no leak. So, I asked him to go ahead and check that out. He then removed/replaced the bad seal on the toilet, and he is pretty confident that was the problem, since the toilet was not properly re-seated after the tile installation (we'll see soon enough). I had contacted them the night before based upon a recommendation from
Glen Allen Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
of Rainbow International, also of
Glen Allen Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
. They responded to my request for service (via Angie's List) within the hour, and came out the next morning as promised. He got right to work, and completed the job ion about an hour and a half. I would definitely use them again, and highly recommend them.
- Bill O.

Glen Allen Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
arrived on time. Howevee he stained our new doors, wall and floors with his work boots. Later learned he was supposed to cover his boots. He finished an I scrubbed the black
Glen Allen Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
he left all over the bathroom. Then noticed the trap was leaking water and needs to be replaced again.
- Abigail C.

He did a great job. It was difficult to access the pipe inside my basement but
Glen Allen Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
was very careful. I would definitely use them again.
- Jeffrey F.

Our plumber's name was
Glen Allen Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
& he was wonderful: professional,
efficient, friendly & knowledgeable. Great price for great service.
- Debi C.

I seldom write reviews and never thought I'd be so impressed by a plumber but after
Glen Allen Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
saved my brand new
Glen Allen Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
Aquia toilet from another plumber's botched job with ease and efficiency, I was completely blown away!
It all started with a small leak that has developed at the bottom of my old toilet. I decided it's a good
Glen Allen Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
to upgrade the toilet to a high efficiency one when I get the leak fixed. I hired the first plumber that responded to my request through HomeAdvisor website. Instead of fixing the problem he ended up created an even bigger leak. After a whole day of trying to stop the leak he blamed the problem on my new toilet and wants to replace it with a cheap toilet from Home Depot. I decided to ditch him and give another plumber a try. I did some research online and found
Glen Allen Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
to have the right experience and back ground. After speaking to
Glen Allen Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
on the phone, I knew I had the right guy for the job and sure enough he fixed the problem in 3 hours and saved my toilet! Not only was he efficient, professional and knowledgeable, he was also courteous and patiently pointed out to me what the other plumber did wrong to almost ruined my toilet and floor!

- Jean W.

They were very good at explaining to us what needed to be done and why. Showed us the pieces that had to be replaced ( it was pretty much solid). They were quick and very professional. And when they were done the clean up looked like nobody had been in there. We were so pleased with their work we told them about some other projects we want done by them. They also looked at a faucet in the kitchen that didn't seem to have the right pressure. They looked at it rinsed it out and its perfect. I'm sure another company would have charged for that.
- mark G.

Everything works perfectly again...the drains run freely, the odor is gone from the laundry room and I will be calling on
Glen Allen Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
to perform more services in the future. I have used Kurts services in the past on two other occasions. One time was to install a new water heater for me and another time was to clear an outside drain line. Great plumber!!
- Denise B.

Drain Cleaning Companies in Glen Allen, VA

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A & J Home Remodeling

3212 South 13th Rd

A-1 Sewer & Drain Plumbing & Heating

516 S Military Hwy
Virginia Beach

A-Z Handyman Services LLC

3108 Jackson Farm Rd

A.E.I. Installations

PO Box 2949

Absolute Plumbing & Mechanical

PO Box 5825

Affordable Plumbing

4215 Farmhill Ln

Aguilar Plumbing

Diamond Ct

All About Plumbing Service & Repair

5116 Carters Pond Ct

Alliance Air & Duct Inc

10301 Hull Street Road

allphase home repair and improvements

9741 Fordwych Dr

Alphin and Associates LLC

22 Villa Ave

ANP Plumbing LLC

4558 Market Rd

Atlantic Green LLC

10825 Houser Dr

Bachman Plumbing

8705 Tarrytown Dr

Bath Fitter - BFU251

8200 Arrowridge Rd

BAZ Construction

8 Raines Ave

Bennetts Home Improvement

4807 Monaco Dr

Best Price Plumbing Inc.

11324 Longtown Drive

Bill Fenwick Plumbing Inc

11623 Columbia Park Dr E

Bubbas Handyman Service

3803 Chamberlayne Ave

Bug Busters Pest Control Services Inc.

1400 W. Third St.


12000 Beaver Spring Pl



C.J.R. Plumbing LLC

6942 Mason Run Drive

Carroll Plumbing & Heating Inc

2108 Maywill St

Chase Inc

100 Oak Glen St

County Line Plumbing & Heating Inc

117 Breezy Hollow Drive

CPS Contractors

17707 Hull St Rd

D2D Contractors, LLC

2281 Walsh ave

Davenport Mechanical

401 Old Country Ter

Dennis W. Spiller General Contracting LLC

1404 Rhode Island Ave.
Glen Allen

Disaster Response Inc - VA DC & MD

8200 Greensboro Dr

Dominion Plumbing

9200 Belcherwood RD

Dr. Tom, LLC.

18140 Shumans Rd
Ruther Glen

Dynamic Drain Technologies LLC

2597 Quality Ct.
Virginia Beach


10831 west broad st
Glen Allen

EPC Elmore's Plumbing Co LLC

1629 Log Cabin Rd

Ferguson Mechanical, LLC

4700 Brookridge Rd

Flinn's Rooter Service LLC

P.O. Box 4952

Foley Plumbing Inc

6583 Merchant Place



G & C's Home Improvement, LLC

PO Box 2875

GMJ Construction & Maintenance

5719 Cartersville Road

Green Home Plumbing

3117 Forest Hill Ave


8447 Glazebrook Avenue

Gundlach Plumbing & Heating

2500 Waco St.

Handyman Perfection, LLC

8404 Yolanda Road


Ruther Glen

Harrison Construction LLC

PO Box 2001

Harry's Plumbing and Heating

2507 Libbie ave.

Hawthorne's Plumbing Inc

PO Box 490



J T Waters Inc

10120 Heritage Ln
Glen Allen

James River Air Conditioning Co.

1905 Westmorland St

Jarratt Plumbing

205 North Mesa Drive

Joe P Clark Inc

5518 Mcclellan Rd

Keil Plumbing & Heating Inc

2507 Willard Rd


1301 School St

Larry the Plumber LLC

Providence Forge

LDM Associates LLC


Levic Construction Company Inc

11912 Middlecoff Dr




11234 Scots Quarter Rd
Glen Allen

Medlin Plumbing

7627 Hull St

Mendoza, Dr. Israel R.

2303 N Parham Rd

Michael & Son Services Inc

5740 General Washington Dr

Michael & Son Services Richmond

1407 Cummings Drive

Mid-Atlantic Waterproofing of VA

8382 Terminal Rd

Mike Wilson Plumbing

9419 Brocket dr

Mr Rooter Of Richmond

718 Grove Rd

Muldoon Plumbing & Heating, Inc.

14822 Gilmans Cross Ct
Glen Allen


21 W 21st St


PO BOX 35181

Pay less plumbing services.

5466 Mechanicsville Turnpike

Perfect Contracting Corp.

9361 Springmount Terrace

Perfect Plumbing LLC

606 Roxbury Industrial Ctr
Charles City

Plumber On The Way of Central Virginia

13231 Bent Creek Rd



Quality For Less, LLC

15597 John Diskin Circle

R B Contractor, Inc

55244 South Ave

R J Tilley Plumbing & Heating Inc

11058 Washington Hwy
Glen Allen

Renovate America

2704 Timber Court

Rhino Rooter

11 Cushing Ave

Rhodes Construction Co

1220 Richeson Ave

Richmond Plumbing LLC

9467 Manorwood Dr

Richmond Window Corporation

2810 W Cary St

Riker Mechanical

3200 Township Line Road

Robinson's Plumbing Service

420 Southlake Blvd

Roger Carney Plumbing Co

6143 Old Newportville Rd

Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Drain Services

2921 Cardwell Rd


208 S 15TH AVE

Spotlight Builders

9200 Belcherwood Rd

Stemmle Plumbing Repair Inc

PO Box 35680





Temperature Control Mechanical Services

11197 Leadbetter Rd

The Plumbing Crew

9955 Royerton Drive

TP&L Contracting Services

PO Box 37311

Trogdon Enterprises

PO Box 74292
North Chesterfield



Tyson Cleaning and Caregiver Service

7556 Prarie Rd.

Underground Services First

2906 Chamberlayne Ave

VA Premier Plumbing

105 Hickory Dr
Manakin Sabot

Vinny's Home Repair

9001 Pocahontas Trail



White Glove Plumbing - Heating & Air

2606 Oak Lake Blvd

Wingo Brothers

510 Woodstock Rd


8180 Mechanicsville Tpke

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