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Over 3,338 reviews for
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A
"
is very professional, responsive, friendly and knowledgeable. He's competitive on his price and was willing to match prices from other" mold inspection companies we received. He was on time the day of our appointment and gave a thorough explanation of what he was doing, as well as advice on how we should get rid of the mold in our house. He only does mold inspections so there is no conflict of interest. A mold report along with protocol outline was sent to us after the inspection. He called us up to explain the reports to us in detail of what type of mold we have and the protocol outline of what the mold remediation should do to remediate. He was also nice enough to look through estimates we receive from third party mold remediators to let us know if the price was reasonable. We're planning on booking him again to re-test our air after the mold remediation to ensure the mold is gone. We would highly recommend him!

-Kevin H.

N
"This company is wonderful!
went and looked at my house and offered me options. He was professional and polite. We hired them, and they" showed up when they were supposed to. They did a thorough remediation on my home and went above and beyond in service and reliability. They were very neat and clean, they left the house just as clean as it was before they started. I feel very confident in their work, and I would hire them again in a heartbeat! I would recommend this company very highly for mold remediation. This is a veteran owned company and I was glad to be able to hire somebody that served our country. Their prices were unbeatable and having said that their service went above and beyond anything that you see in a lot of today's businesses. They stand behind their work and guarantee a job properly done. I can't say enough about how happy I am that I found this company to help me with my house. Thank you guys, you are awesome!!!

-Jackie E.

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Local Articles in Colonial Heights

removing black mold

Mold

Nothing strikes fear like the sight of black mold. Learn about household mold, mold symptoms, how to test for mold and the best methods for mold removal.

Angie's List
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Contractors say homeowners with this trait are the most satisfied with home improvement projects.

Many homes in humid climates are susceptible to mold growth on furniture, clothing and even structural walls if there is inadequate ventilation, says Belk. (Photo courtesy of Gold Coast Flood Restorations)
Mold Testing & Remediation

Long-term exposure to certain types of toxic molds can be catastrophic. One highly rated provider shares four easy tips to prevent mold from invading your home.

Most molds, when allowed to grow in abundance, are visibly seen in certain colors, says Cascone. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Teresa K. of Beachwood, Ohio)
Mold Testing & Remediation

Mold may be present in your home and affecting your life even if no actual mold is visible. Here are four things that may indicate you need mold remediation.

"While it’s entirely possible that you do have mold in your air ducts, such claims are also a common scare tactic used by some less-than-scrupulous air duct cleaning companies," Angie Hicks says.
Mold Testing & Remediation, Air Duct Cleaning

Do you have mold in your air ducts? Learn how to identify mold and remediate it, along with what you should expect to pay. Angie Hicks provides the answers.

Angie's Answers

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Mold in a basement is a common problem. My company helps people with this every day. Some of the answers you received were helpful but not all the information is correct. First, you need to eliminate the two main ingrediants that mold needs to survive. The first one is water intrusion. This is a must. I am assuming you have no water intrusion as you make no mention. The second componant that needs to be eliminated is moisture. Moisture is also humidity. Basements need to be kept airtight in the summer months. Some folks have posted that you need air flow in your basement. Nothing could be furthur from the truth. When you open any windows for example, not one micron of air goes out of the basement, Warm humid air is sucked into the basement. Houses suck air into the basement and it meets the cool surfaces and skyrockets humidity. The windows must be kept closed and a dehumidification device installed to ensure humidity stays below 60% humidity. The dehumidifier should be energy star rated and purchasing a seperate humidity guage is a must to monitor the unit's progress. We like to keep our customer's basements at 50% humidity. This eliminates the smell that is active mold spore growth. Once the water and humidity is brought under control. Remove the organic materials that have mold on them. Walls, sheetrock and studs that have been affected. Follow the advice of previous posts as you must ensure that you do not affect the rest of the home. Once removed, install new walls using as much inorganic material as possible. We also install vapor barrier over the walls and seal the floors to stopwater vapor transmission into the basement. Poly plastic is not a acceptable vapor barrier. It is not "zero-perm" and will still allow moisture transmission. It will also crack and break into pieces over the years. A PVC liner rated "zero-perm" is the correct product in this application. Depending how large the basement is and if it is sectioned off will determine the dehumidifier strength. We use the Santa Fe line of dehidifiers as they are super energy efficiant and work like a dehumidifier on steriods. I hope this helps and I wish you the best in Basement Health!
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Is the cabin conditioned year round or at all?

 

Are there any grading or moisture issues that are allowing bulk moisture into the crawl?

 

Conditioning the crawl is usually the best answer but if it is sporadic use and/or makes better sense to leave as a vented space, you need to do the following for optimum performance:

 

- Install a vapor barrier across the floor.  Seal all piers and penetrations as well as seal to the stem wall.

- Insulate the underside of the floor and ideally thermally break the floor joists from the earth.

- This is best accomplished by covering the floor joist with a rigid foam and sealing all the seams.

 

 

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When you say vented to the roof, do you mean into the attic UNDER the roof, or through the roof with a duct up through a roof jack into a roof hood ? Hopefully the latter, otherwise you have the likely source of the problem.

You are clearly getting moisture in this area still, so more insulation will not help and may hurt - insulation does not stop moisture but does trap it, particularly if you add enough tht the freezing front moves well down into the insulation, so vapor coming up from the house freezes in the insulation (making it wet when it thaws) rather than venting into the attic and evaporating from there.

You need an expert check on the bathroom area - that the fan unit and any light fixtures are tighly sealed to the vapor barrier. Usually they are installed with about a 1/4-1/2 inch void all around for ease of installation, and not sealed at all, so moist bathroom air vents around themm into the attic.

Then the fan unit needs checking for openings - many have openings in the plastic or metal case from manufacturing that are not sealed but should be. Do NOT use any type of unit that, because of big lights or heat lamp, says it has to be vented and cannot be sealed in, because moist air goes right up through it.

Then the duct from the fan up through the roof needs checking for leaks (and should be insulated, at least if your attic goes below freezing ever), and should have a roof jack where it penetrates the attic - a rubber seal in a metal plate that fits tightly around the duct, so the air blown into the vent hood on the roof cannot circulate back down into the attic. Most installers just cut about a 1 foot opening in the roof (especially if they can install the duct that way without having to crawl around in itchy attic insulation), run the duct up through it into the roof hood, and walk away. That leaves that big opening in the roof sheathing for the wet air and condensation in the hood to corculate right back down into the attic. Some installers (like my house whenn I first bought it) really take the easy route and don't even connect the duct to the hood - they just terminate it a foot or so below the sheathing so ALL the moist air goes into the attic.

I would also check the kitchen and any other bathroom fans for the same leak sources or improper installation, and make sure all vent pipes are intact to above the roof, and that there are no furnace or HVAC ducts disconnected or damaged that could be adding moisture.

Also look around all roof penetrations for ducts and pipes for staining on the underside of the sheathing, which would be indicative of roof hood or jack leaks that should be repaired. (Hopefully, with a new roof you would not have any).

The area most affected should have the insulation moved away and checked to see if the vapor barrier has holes or tears, openings around pipes, ducts, light boxes or wiring, or was maybe totally torn out by some prior workman. If your vapor barrier is not effective, moist household air will move into the attic almost year around, but especially in cold weather, carrying moisture into the attic, where it will condense and cause mold.

Also - if you have a fireplace chase (wood boxout around metal chimney) in that area, it may connect to the house in the firebox area and be open to the attic (which is a real fire spread hazard but for some reason is not contrary to code), letting household air flow by that route.

The mold should be brushed and vacuumed away, then treated - there are commercial sprays that are fungicides that commercial mold and mildew removal contractors have, a sprayed chlorine bleach and borax solution has also been shown to work but you would have to have an air supplied respirator and chemical suit to work with that, which only professional remediation contractors have. Do NOT paint the area - especially the underside of the roof sheathing and trusses. They needs to be able to breathe, not have any moisture from above locked in.

Stains in the attic (assuming this is an unoccupied area) can be bleached, and then if you want the evidence to go away and make it easier to tell if there is new staining or mold, sanded to remove the worst of them.

Stains on areas visible from the outside like walls and rafters can be treated with Chlorine bleach (beware of dripping on good finishes below), painted with Kilz or similar anti-fungal primer, then painted. Stains on the underside of the sheathing visible in the soffit area can be bleached and then when dry, sanded away.

Ventilation is essential, but without removing the source of most the moisture you will not win this war no matter how many times you battle it.

While I would guess the fans and vents are the problem, is there anything different about the attic ventilation to this area versus the other parts of the roof - soffit covers, blocked eave openings, insulation-clogged bug screening or soffit cover openings, lack of air chutes or eave baffles, insulation pushed up against eave opening or up against roof, horizontal blocking that prevents or obstructs airflow, no ridge vent above it, etc ?

If you are not able to find an obvious source of the moisture, I woud consider getting a thermal IR scan of the attic. For typically about $200-300 an energy conservation expert with thermal scanner can scan the attic (might have to be done at night or VERY early morning if done in summertime, to accentuate the temp difference between house air and attic air, unless you have AC in which case turning the AC down low and blower on full can work by pushing cold air rather than hot up through any gaps or voids. If you have that done, check on price to add in the rest of the house too - probably not more than about $100 more, and can show you where your air leaks and poor insulation air. You should try to get one who can provide the entire scan to you on CD or DVD, so you can review it in the future. Here is a link to some images so you know what I am talking about -

http://www.google.com/images?client=safari&rls=en&q=house+IR+scan&oe=UTF-8&hl=en&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&ei=rhfRUci4F-TbigLghIHIAg&ved=0CDcQsAQ

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Call in the professionals.

There is no sense addressing the mold issue until you resolve the basement leaks.

High ground water that is seeping into your basement is going to lead to long term, serious damage to your foundation and basement walls.  Any mold you remove will just keep coming back.  The first question is the age of the home and whether or not you have working perimeter drain tile installed.  If you home is pretty old (30+ years) it is possible you do not have a drainiage system, or the system is clogged / deteriorated beyond function.  For a newer home, perimeter drain tile was a requirement, but doesn't mean it was installed properly.

I recommend you hire a licensed architect to review your house's construction, the site and look for indications that a drainage system is in place and functioning.  They should be able to find out where the drain comes out, and to check it (after a rain or by doing a water test) to see if it is working.  If it is working, it is possible your system is undersized or only failing in a specific area.  It is also possible a second, lower water table exists that is below your current drain system.  A site change, to change the current flow of ground water or above ground water may resolve your issue as well.  Something as simple as a new drainage ditch, retention pond or higher grades around your building may resolve your issue.

Working with a professional will prevent you from worrying about a 'draingage expert' recommending a high cost repair when another option may be available.

Some drainage people will propose installing a new perimiter drain inside your basement walls.  This system gets the water that gets through the walls and under the floor, and carries it back out.  This is a last ditch idea.  The best method, to solve the issue for good, is to dig back down to your footers, repair the waterproofing on the wall, then place drainage board over it (this protects the waterproofing while allowing moisture a travel path to your drain tile).  Then place gravel fill with geo-fabric over it, then backfill.  Now, no matter how much water you have in your ground, it will be directed away from your basement.

A sump pump in the basement to handle flooding or low water tables below your basement slab will augment this system.

Once you have the moisture issue resolved, then worry about stopping mold.  In the interim, any materials that are growing mold need to be removed (use protective measures).  Make sure you run a dehumidifier at all times and keep air moving by turning on the basement hvac vents or putting some fans in the area.

Working with a licensed architect will help ensure you pinpoint the exact problem, and have a knowledgable person to discuss the options with before doing any costly work.  The architect will also be able to assist with finding contractors and overseeing that the work is installed correctly (It is worthless to redo the drainage if any one area is not done correctly).  Good luck.

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Mold Removal reviews in Colonial Heights

A

Rating
Great. Fantastic. They removed it and it passed with flying colors. A hygienist came in to test the air quality and it was great.
- Grant K.
A

Rating
They were prompt in returning my estimate inquirey and provided an estimate. The job was completed in one day, and they left a
Colonial Heights Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
air filter running in the problem area for two days following. The were very professional and friendly. After the job, they even provided some non job related advice which was very welcome from a professional. I would recommend their quality and their service.
- Robert C.
A

Rating
They did a very good job. Scheduling was really easy. The owner was really good. He came out and did an estimate and the crew was here in a couple of days. They did good work and were always on time or kept me informed about when they would be here.
- Bergino S.
A

Rating
He was about $1500 cheaper than 2 other providers I had called and gotten estimates from. They came and did the job, and left everything there until it was checked out by a licensed inspector and came back the next day to take everything away. I recommend him very hardily.
- LAWRENCE F.
A

Rating
It was better than expected. It was a fantastic service, no hang ups, and amazing job. Very responsive to any of my customer service calls. They were willing to come out at no cost. I inspected the area the area they worked on and it was an impressive job.
- Robert W.
A

Rating
My experience was very good. They were professional and thorough. They gave me an estimate to remediate the mold problem and how I could do it myself. Scheduling an appointment was fine.
- Terrance F.
A

Rating
Super job. We were panicked, and
Colonial Heights Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
(the owner) was great. He explained everything that had occurred, what condition the basement was in, what needed to be done and how they could do it. He was very reassuring and very knowledgeable. When the work was done, the guys -
Colonial Heights Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
and
Colonial Heights Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
- were great.
We couldn't be more pleased. This company is a top-notch operation start to finish. They are all super guys, personable and knowledgeable. They covered the items that couldn't be moved with plastic to protect them, tore out the bad stuff and cleaned, sanitized and sealed the walls. We were informed of every step and they did a beautiful job and didn't leave a speck of dust...
Hopefully, we will never have mold again, but if we did, there would be no one else we would call. Not only was the service outstanding, but the price was less than half of the other estimates. I wish there was an A+++ rating.
- Melanie M M.
F

Rating
Cannot recommend. If they can't show up for a
Colonial Heights Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
previously scheduled appointment then I definitely can't trust them with pricey inspection work!
- Jeff H.

All Mold Remediators in Colonial Heights, VA

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

AirMD

7700 Congress Ave

Allensbc.com

1077 Canary Ave

ANTIPEST TERMITE & PEST CNTRL

3905 HILLTOP FIELD DR
Chester

Bubbas Handyman Service

3803 Chamberlayne Ave
Richmond

Bug Busters Pest Control Services Inc.

1400 W. Third St.
Farmville

Building Science, Inc.

8436 Erle Rd
Mechanicsville

Cabana Boys

1801 Winding Way
North Chesterfield

Car Pool Detail LLC

5512 W Broad St
Richmond

COMMONWEALTH HOME INSPECTIONS

6009 SHADY WILLOW PL
Glen Allen

Disaster Response Inc. - VA, DC & MD

8200 Greensboro Drive
Mclean

Dr. Tom, LLC.

18140 Shumans Rd
Ruther Glen

DuBose Renovation and Restoration LLC

1015 Borden Road
Richmond

EnviroGroup LLC

3407 Floyd Ave
Richmond

Exterminating Unlimited, Inc.

10979 Leadbetter Rd
Ashland

Guardian Duct Cleaning

184 N 6th St
Richmond

Heritage Contracting Services

11903 Bowman Dr
Fredericksburg

Hickman's Termite & Pest Control Inc

2907 Hungary Spring Rd
Henrico

Home Inspex

P.O. Box 37563
Richmond

Jas Revolutioin

North Chesterfield

Jenkins Restorations

2102 N. Hamilton St
Richmond

JES Foundation Repair

1741 Corporate Landing Parkway
Virginia Beach

Kohmar Air Duct Cleaning LLC.

2022 Tacony Drive
Richmond

Loyal Termite & Pest Control Inc

2610 E Parham Rd
Henrico

Michael & Son Services Inc

5740 General Washington Dr
Alexandria

Michael & Son Services Richmond

1407 Cummings Drive
Richmond

MICROLAB NORTHWEST

7609 140Th Pl NE

Miller Tyme Roofing and Construction, LLC.

5509 Pony Farm Drive
Richmond

Moisture and Mold Solutions

10400 Chester Road
Chester

Moldlab

2501 Mayes road suite #110

MoldX Inc

PO Box 6046
Midlothian

NICHOLS INC

2361-D Greystone Ct
Rockville

Paramount Builders Inc

12940 Plaza Dr
Richmond

PuroClean Restoration Professionals

2425 W. Deerpath Drive
Powhatan

Quality Home Inspections

28 Paula Maria Dr
Newport News

RBS Services

425 E. Ellerslie Ave
Colonial Heights

RBVA INC

2910 Libby Terrace
Richmond

Re-Freshen

5102 W Village Green Dr
Midlothian

Remedia Pro

700 Dawn St
Richmond

Residential Inspections, Inc.

PO BOX 2098
Colonial Heights

Rob's Restoration

2808 Stanwix Ln
Richmond

ROLYN Companies

5706 FREDERICK AVE

Select Home Solutions

9119 Dickey Drive
Mechanicsville

Service Master of Richmond Inc

2809 Ackley Ave
Henrico

Slocum Contracting

1924 Williamstowne Dr
Richmond

STEP BY STEPP HOME INSPECTIONS

508 Smoketree Pl
Richmond

Triangle Sealants Corporation

PO Box 6128
Portsmouth

TRS Total Restoration Services

16408 Jefferson Davis Hwy
South Chesterfield

Virginia Basement

PO Box 244
Ashland

Virginia Powerwash

4060 Greyhound Ct
Midlothian

WACO INC

5450 LEWIS RD
Sandston

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