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Local Articles in Clifton Forge

Hiring an Electrician

Good electricians require extensive training and continuing education to keep up with constantly changing technology. Your residential electrical contractor provides an important service to keep your home running safely and smoothly, so you want to hire the best possible person. Read this Homeowner's Guide to Hiring an Electrician to learn more before you hire.

Common Electrical Problems

Although the potential dangers of electrocution and fire should make most homeowners wary of do-it-yourself electrical projects, there are some basic electric troubleshooting tips that can help when you are experiencing issues.

ambient lighting
Lighting, Interior Design & Decorating, Electrical

People often underestimate and overlook lighting when planning a space.

Kitchens offer an abundance of lighting choices that can add aesthetic appeal. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Tim S. of  Atlanta)
Lighting, Electrical

On this episode of the Chat with the Experts podcast, Chuck Hill of Mister Sparky explains lighting options for your home and answers electrical questions.

outlets installed on kitchen counter
Interior Design & Decorating, Electrical

Homes are often constructed with just the minimum required amount of outlets for each area.

firefighter at controlled burn in Indianapolis
Remodeling - General, Electrical, Chimney Sweep

Thirty seconds is the length of most television commercials. It’s also the length of time it takes for a fire to get out of control in your home.

Angie's Answers

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Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.
?

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

?

As I understand it, you are looking at putting in a fan where there is no ceiling electric outlet. Since I am not sure, will try to break out piece by piece, undersanding these wouyld all be lumped into one job (possibly excluding wiring new outlet and switch). I hate to be so general, but access is the key here - if access is easy and there is a suitable light switch in the same room, cost can be at the low end of this range. If assess is poor and you don't want holes knocked in your drywall, then get more expensive real fast.

1) cost of fan typically $125-250 unless high end model

2) remove existing regular 4" box, install supports to joists and new box (ceiling fans need specially supported boxes due to the extra weight and swaying motion of the fans) $50-75

3) tap electric from existing circuit at existing box, upgrade existing light switch box to add one or two more switches (Adjustable for fan speed, 2nd for light, if so equipped), run wiring to ceiling fixture $125-250

4) put up fan, connect, test $75-100

So - total About $250-425 with no box there now, plus cost of fixture. A simple install to replace an existing fan, or install where the ceiling box was wired for a fan, would be only about $75-100.

This all assumes the existing nearby electric circuit can handle the addition of the fan - if not, then wiring cost will go up. It also assumes there is access via open attic or joists to install the wiring. Otherwise, installation cost OK but does NOT include repair to holes in drywall or ceiling to pull wiring.

Note also that an existing ceiling light box would probably NOT fill the bill - code in almost all jurisdictions requires 12 ga wire for fan motors, most household circuits are 14 or 16 gauge, so would need new wire pulled from a circuit with adequate capacity.

Get bids ! I worked on one job where the owner in a high-end house decided to put in fans with fancy candeliers underneath after construction was done - cost almost $3000 to do installation because all the wall and ceilings were finished in a high-end finish, so all wire pulling had to be done remotely - including removing siding to put in pull boxes at changes of direction and fasten conduit to studs. PLAN AHEAD !

 

?

Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.

?

An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.

 

A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.

 

Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.

?

If you already have a fixture there, around $100 plus or minus about $30 if not over 7 or 30 pounds, or about $200-300 if weighs over about 7 or 30 pounds. The 7 or 30 pound ranges are dependent on whether the existing box is plastic or a standard Square-D type or equivalent metal one, because each type of box can only hold so much weight. If existing box is rated 70 pounds or more (ceiling fan or large chandelier rated) then the $100 range should do it regardless.

 

I am assuming when you say mini-pendants you meant from a single box if more than one. If you meant two separate by some feet, add probably about $100 more to add a second box, ASSUMING they will both be run off the same single switch.

 

IF you do NOT have a light fixture there now, then can run from $150-300 range if there is easy access from above (open attic) to $500 or more if has to tear into drywall to install wiring and box so you then have to get drywall contractor and painter in to repair the damages.

Electrician reviews in Clifton Forge

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Rating
Clifton Forge Electricians Provider Name Locked
was very responsive and friendly - I received a reply to my message same day and scheduled an appointment within a week. He was on-time to the appointment and was able to complete the job efficiently, he even installed an interior switch for our new light, which was great. We will definitely be keeping his information on-hand for future electrical needs!
- Kristin D.
A

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Clifton Forge Electricians Provider Name Locked
and
Clifton Forge Electricians Provider Name Locked
worked throughout the week making multiple trips in extremely terrible weather to get the job done as promised. They were able to work around and with other contractors in addition to the weather conditions. I watched the landscapers load up when the rain started while these guys were not afraid of melting. Great job guys and I will call you in the future.
- Michael G.
A

Rating
Clifton Forge Electricians Provider Name Locked
is excellent. We had them to do work to put our house on the
Clifton Forge Electricians Provider Name Locked
and have had them back in our new house doing more. They are professional, punctual, extremely customer-focused and reasonably priced. Whenever we need an electrician, we will continue to use
Clifton Forge Electricians Provider Name Locked
.
- Jennifer M.
A

Rating
The owner called me prior to the scheduling to ask what I wanted done. He scheduled the work the same weekThe technician was very professional and though in installing the ceiling fans.He was neat and cleaned up. He was very polite and showed me has to operate the remote control. I highly recommend
Clifton Forge Electricians Provider Name Locked

- john K.
A

Rating
Clifton Forge Electricians Provider Name Locked
was prompt, courteous and professional. He figured out what the problem was fairly quickly and replaced a bad outlet in the garage with a gfci outlet which took care of the problem. I also asked him to rewire our furnace room light switch to make it independent of a connecting room. I would definitely use
Clifton Forge Electricians Provider Name Locked
again.
- Kay B.
C

Rating
I called ahead to make the appointment and explain that I did not want the standard gutter cables because I have no gutters. The crew that showed up did not get the word and were confused and flustered when they arrived. They eventually installed the cables between the doghouse dormers on our roof where we have icing problems and then installed an outlet on the side of the house and hooked into a breaker in the basement. The cables fell off the roof (partially) twice (about 30 days apart) after the installation and they came back to fix the installation both times. It has been about 3 months since their last visit and the cables are still up. I don't have a lot of confidence they will stay up during the winter. The extra charge for not running cabling on the side of our house was $500. Overall, not a good value or a good installation in my opinion. I hope there is no snow this year,
- Robert P.
A

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Clifton Forge Electricians Provider Name Locked
were quick to respond to my phone call. They gave me a great price and did the work on the spot. They cleaned up after themselves and were
Clifton Forge Electricians Provider Name Locked
in no time.
Reliable and consistent. I have called them for an estimate on another job, but I ended up doing something different. But when I called them the second time, same thing...Quick to respond, courteous and good pricing.
Seriously kind guys. I tried to help move some shelves so that they could get to the area to work, and
Clifton Forge Electricians Provider Name Locked
said they would take care of everything. I tried cleaning up around them and they said they would take care of it. Some contractors say these things, but they do not deliver.
I would recommend
Clifton Forge Electricians Provider Name Locked
for sure.


- Susan S.
A

Rating
Clifton Forge Electricians Provider Name Locked
personnel arrived within the time frame I was told, and having advised them of the problem, they quickly went to work testing each non-working outlet, and determining the cause of the problem to be a loose feeder line connecting the one working outlet in the room, to the other 4 non-working outlets. Upon correctly refastening that feeder line to its binding post, electricity then flowed to the other 4 outlets, thus solving the problem.
- Tom W.

Electricians in Clifton Forge, VA

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

1st Choice Auto and Fleet

16080 Rogers Rd
Culpeper

ACES Electric

505 Decatur Rd
Stafford

Afforble Painting

87 toppoint
Barhamsville

Alexander Technical Resources

1263 Glenwood Ave. SE

Alliance Air & Duct Inc

10301 Hull Street Road
Midlothian

Alpha Omega Construction

114 Withers Rd
Danville

AMP Electric L.L.C.

4515 Brandon Ln
Fredericksburg

ARH Electric

PO Box 3638
Fredericksburg

ATA Tire Ctr

3403 Plank Rd
Fredericksburg

AUGUSTA ELECTRIC

124 Lofton Ridge Lane
Greenville

Battlefield Electric

3516 Massaponax Church Rd
Fredericksburg

Blanca's Remodleing

303 Sunbury Ln
Stafford

Blue Ridge Home Watch Services

136 Jonah's Knob Lane
Laurel Fork

Boyer & Sons Electrical

505 Mill Rd
Dillwyn

Brumbaugh Electrical

118 Lake Ave
Staunton

Buds Plumbing Heating & Air Conditioning

417 Old York Hampton Hwy
Yorktown

C. E. Gene Comer General Contractor, LLC

1180 Loftis Rd
South Boston

Cambridge Companies

2509 Valley Ave
Winchester

Carl Plumbing & Electrical LLC

32 Celebrity Ln
Fishersville

CHARLOTTESVILLE ELECTRICAL SOLUTIONS

PO BOX 6850
Charlottesville

Costco Wholesale

3102 Plank R
Fredericksburg

Dawson & Garza Mech

PO Box 899
Amelia Court House

DirectBuy of Indianapolis

8450 Westfield Blvd

Dixon, Dr. Kevin L.

120 Soaring Eagle Dr
Stafford

DOUBLE R CONSTRUCTION CO

15155 LITTON RD
Abingdon

Dzinbild

14980 Davis Rd
Church Road

elder and son construction

13 captain johns cove

Environment Control LLC

1788 Tilletson Pl
Woodbridge

Exquisite Designs

47332 Sterdley Falls
Sterling

Extreme power plus

106 SHENANDOAH LN
Stafford

Finishing Touches

6420 Dawes Dr.
King George

Firuze Kitchen Bath Floor

5650 General Washington Dr
Alexandria

Frank Ferguson Enterprises

745 Tuscarora Dr
Danville

H&D Handyman Service's Llc

206 east Whitlock ave

Handy Girl Home Improvement LLC

8047 Fulmont Dr
King George

Handy Works

679 Holly Crest Dr
Culpeper

HILL ELECTRICAL INC

8553 Meadowbridge Rd
Mechanicsville

Inspired Electrical Solutions Inc

31330A Constitution Hwy
Locust Grove

J & D Construction and Maintenance

304 S Brown Street
Blackstone

J A HOOD ELECTRIC

1750 BURRIER LN

J&J Electrical

15388 Cashville Rd
Onancock

Jenkins Restorations

109 Juliad Ct Ste 105
Fredericksburg

Jernigan Outfiters LLC.

326 Kingston Rd
Ridgeway

k A Construction Inc

72 Royal Hills Dr
Fredericksburg

LEXINGTON ELECTRIC & HVAC INC

304 MCLAUGHLIN ST
Lexington

McLean Home Improvement LLC

PO Box 3042
Sterling

Michael & Son Services Inc

5740 General Washington Dr
Alexandria

Mike Fusco Builder

1201 S. Crescent Drive

Moser Electric

310 Oakpark Dr
Moneta

Mull's Residential Services

1739 Sweetwater Lane
Chase City

Murphy Family Electric

500 N. Washington St.
Alexandria

NEW LOOK KITCHEN & BATH CO

322 N ROYAL AVE
Front Royal

NW Improvements LLC

848 Quince Orchard Blvd

Parrish Services Inc

7865 Coppermine Dr
Manassas

Perry Cook Signs

1400 Iron St.
Richlands

Potomac Pile Driver

103 Randolph Road
Fredericksburg

Power Solutions

2409 Lebanon Rd

Premier Electrical Services

96 Thompson Mill Rd.
Front Royal

Quality Expectations LLC

POBox 678
Garrisonville

RCI Services

3743 Shannon Hill Rd
Columbia

Rector's Property Maintenance

801 colonial ave
Colonial Beach

Redford and Sons

611 W Carolina Ave
Crewe

Redmond's Plumbing & Electrical, Inc.

630 Crabbetown Road
Heathsville

Remodel USA

605 Hampton Park Blvd

Renewable Engineered Systems

22 East Church Street
Martinsville

Reno Remodeling

211 Sea Cliff Dr
Ruther Glen

RK Restorations, LLC.

1208 S Thomas Street
Arlington

Rosner Mazda & Volkswagen of Fredericksburg

5208 Jefferson Davis Hwy
Fredericksburg

Singh Construction

206 Back River Neck Rd

Southers Electrical Services

813 Osborne Rd.
Farmville

St. James Electric

203 W. Main St
Front Royal

Stefan Home Service

5901 Sheraton Cir.
Fredericksburg

STEFAN HOME SERVICE

5901 SHERATON CIR.
Fredericksburg

Subaru of Winchester

3019 Valley Ave
Winchester

superior design

1091 longview lane
Culpeper

Total Energy Focus

3113 Valley Ave
Winchester

US1cable LLC

7371 Atlas Walk Way
Gainesville

Venetian Marble Inc

2150 Carter Gallier Blvd
Powhatan

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

WEBB ELECTRICAL CO

PO Box 70866
Henrico

Wiles Home Improvement

PO Box 119
Mint Spring

Williamsburg Electricians

290 D Patriot Lane
Williamsburg

Woodall Electric

606 25th St

Woodfin

8180 Mechanicsville Tpke
Mechanicsville
Clifton Forge Zip Codes

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