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A
"Nice and very knowledgable guy. Gave great info during initial call. Hired him to do next day mold elimination in small attic space after ice dam leaks. He did" a great job, was very efficient, and shared his wealth of knowledge and made great suggestions for improvements. I highly recommend him to anyone needing this service. His prices were reasonable and he was very thorough.

-Kristin M.

A
"
and his team were punctual, thorough, and pleasant throughout the whole process.
provided sound advice and recommendations" at every step in the process. His explanations were detailed and all of my many questions were answered with patience.

-Lynn H.

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Local Articles in Chester

Mold

Nothing strikes fear like the sight of black mold. Learn about household mold, mold symptoms, how to test for mold and the best methods for mold removal.

Angie's List
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Contractors say homeowners with this trait are the most satisfied with home improvement projects.

Many homes in humid climates are susceptible to mold growth on furniture, clothing and even structural walls if there is inadequate ventilation, says Belk. (Photo courtesy of Gold Coast Flood Restorations)
Mold Testing & Remediation

Long-term exposure to certain types of toxic molds can be catastrophic. One highly rated provider shares four easy tips to prevent mold from invading your home.

Most molds, when allowed to grow in abundance, are visibly seen in certain colors, says Cascone. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Teresa K. of Beachwood, Ohio)
Mold Testing & Remediation

Mold may be present in your home and affecting your life even if no actual mold is visible. Here are four things that may indicate you need mold remediation.

"While it’s entirely possible that you do have mold in your air ducts, such claims are also a common scare tactic used by some less-than-scrupulous air duct cleaning companies," Angie Hicks says.
Mold Testing & Remediation, Air Duct Cleaning

Do you have mold in your air ducts? Learn how to identify mold and remediate it, along with what you should expect to pay. Angie Hicks provides the answers.

Angie's Answers

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Mold in a basement is a common problem. My company helps people with this every day. Some of the answers you received were helpful but not all the information is correct. First, you need to eliminate the two main ingrediants that mold needs to survive. The first one is water intrusion. This is a must. I am assuming you have no water intrusion as you make no mention. The second componant that needs to be eliminated is moisture. Moisture is also humidity. Basements need to be kept airtight in the summer months. Some folks have posted that you need air flow in your basement. Nothing could be furthur from the truth. When you open any windows for example, not one micron of air goes out of the basement, Warm humid air is sucked into the basement. Houses suck air into the basement and it meets the cool surfaces and skyrockets humidity. The windows must be kept closed and a dehumidification device installed to ensure humidity stays below 60% humidity. The dehumidifier should be energy star rated and purchasing a seperate humidity guage is a must to monitor the unit's progress. We like to keep our customer's basements at 50% humidity. This eliminates the smell that is active mold spore growth. Once the water and humidity is brought under control. Remove the organic materials that have mold on them. Walls, sheetrock and studs that have been affected. Follow the advice of previous posts as you must ensure that you do not affect the rest of the home. Once removed, install new walls using as much inorganic material as possible. We also install vapor barrier over the walls and seal the floors to stopwater vapor transmission into the basement. Poly plastic is not a acceptable vapor barrier. It is not "zero-perm" and will still allow moisture transmission. It will also crack and break into pieces over the years. A PVC liner rated "zero-perm" is the correct product in this application. Depending how large the basement is and if it is sectioned off will determine the dehumidifier strength. We use the Santa Fe line of dehidifiers as they are super energy efficiant and work like a dehumidifier on steriods. I hope this helps and I wish you the best in Basement Health!
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Is the cabin conditioned year round or at all?

 

Are there any grading or moisture issues that are allowing bulk moisture into the crawl?

 

Conditioning the crawl is usually the best answer but if it is sporadic use and/or makes better sense to leave as a vented space, you need to do the following for optimum performance:

 

- Install a vapor barrier across the floor.  Seal all piers and penetrations as well as seal to the stem wall.

- Insulate the underside of the floor and ideally thermally break the floor joists from the earth.

- This is best accomplished by covering the floor joist with a rigid foam and sealing all the seams.

 

 

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When you say vented to the roof, do you mean into the attic UNDER the roof, or through the roof with a duct up through a roof jack into a roof hood ? Hopefully the latter, otherwise you have the likely source of the problem.

You are clearly getting moisture in this area still, so more insulation will not help and may hurt - insulation does not stop moisture but does trap it, particularly if you add enough tht the freezing front moves well down into the insulation, so vapor coming up from the house freezes in the insulation (making it wet when it thaws) rather than venting into the attic and evaporating from there.

You need an expert check on the bathroom area - that the fan unit and any light fixtures are tighly sealed to the vapor barrier. Usually they are installed with about a 1/4-1/2 inch void all around for ease of installation, and not sealed at all, so moist bathroom air vents around themm into the attic.

Then the fan unit needs checking for openings - many have openings in the plastic or metal case from manufacturing that are not sealed but should be. Do NOT use any type of unit that, because of big lights or heat lamp, says it has to be vented and cannot be sealed in, because moist air goes right up through it.

Then the duct from the fan up through the roof needs checking for leaks (and should be insulated, at least if your attic goes below freezing ever), and should have a roof jack where it penetrates the attic - a rubber seal in a metal plate that fits tightly around the duct, so the air blown into the vent hood on the roof cannot circulate back down into the attic. Most installers just cut about a 1 foot opening in the roof (especially if they can install the duct that way without having to crawl around in itchy attic insulation), run the duct up through it into the roof hood, and walk away. That leaves that big opening in the roof sheathing for the wet air and condensation in the hood to corculate right back down into the attic. Some installers (like my house whenn I first bought it) really take the easy route and don't even connect the duct to the hood - they just terminate it a foot or so below the sheathing so ALL the moist air goes into the attic.

I would also check the kitchen and any other bathroom fans for the same leak sources or improper installation, and make sure all vent pipes are intact to above the roof, and that there are no furnace or HVAC ducts disconnected or damaged that could be adding moisture.

Also look around all roof penetrations for ducts and pipes for staining on the underside of the sheathing, which would be indicative of roof hood or jack leaks that should be repaired. (Hopefully, with a new roof you would not have any).

The area most affected should have the insulation moved away and checked to see if the vapor barrier has holes or tears, openings around pipes, ducts, light boxes or wiring, or was maybe totally torn out by some prior workman. If your vapor barrier is not effective, moist household air will move into the attic almost year around, but especially in cold weather, carrying moisture into the attic, where it will condense and cause mold.

Also - if you have a fireplace chase (wood boxout around metal chimney) in that area, it may connect to the house in the firebox area and be open to the attic (which is a real fire spread hazard but for some reason is not contrary to code), letting household air flow by that route.

The mold should be brushed and vacuumed away, then treated - there are commercial sprays that are fungicides that commercial mold and mildew removal contractors have, a sprayed chlorine bleach and borax solution has also been shown to work but you would have to have an air supplied respirator and chemical suit to work with that, which only professional remediation contractors have. Do NOT paint the area - especially the underside of the roof sheathing and trusses. They needs to be able to breathe, not have any moisture from above locked in.

Stains in the attic (assuming this is an unoccupied area) can be bleached, and then if you want the evidence to go away and make it easier to tell if there is new staining or mold, sanded to remove the worst of them.

Stains on areas visible from the outside like walls and rafters can be treated with Chlorine bleach (beware of dripping on good finishes below), painted with Kilz or similar anti-fungal primer, then painted. Stains on the underside of the sheathing visible in the soffit area can be bleached and then when dry, sanded away.

Ventilation is essential, but without removing the source of most the moisture you will not win this war no matter how many times you battle it.

While I would guess the fans and vents are the problem, is there anything different about the attic ventilation to this area versus the other parts of the roof - soffit covers, blocked eave openings, insulation-clogged bug screening or soffit cover openings, lack of air chutes or eave baffles, insulation pushed up against eave opening or up against roof, horizontal blocking that prevents or obstructs airflow, no ridge vent above it, etc ?

If you are not able to find an obvious source of the moisture, I woud consider getting a thermal IR scan of the attic. For typically about $200-300 an energy conservation expert with thermal scanner can scan the attic (might have to be done at night or VERY early morning if done in summertime, to accentuate the temp difference between house air and attic air, unless you have AC in which case turning the AC down low and blower on full can work by pushing cold air rather than hot up through any gaps or voids. If you have that done, check on price to add in the rest of the house too - probably not more than about $100 more, and can show you where your air leaks and poor insulation air. You should try to get one who can provide the entire scan to you on CD or DVD, so you can review it in the future. Here is a link to some images so you know what I am talking about -

http://www.google.com/images?client=safari&rls=en&q=house+IR+scan&oe=UTF-8&hl=en&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&ei=rhfRUci4F-TbigLghIHIAg&ved=0CDcQsAQ

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Call in the professionals.

There is no sense addressing the mold issue until you resolve the basement leaks.

High ground water that is seeping into your basement is going to lead to long term, serious damage to your foundation and basement walls.  Any mold you remove will just keep coming back.  The first question is the age of the home and whether or not you have working perimeter drain tile installed.  If you home is pretty old (30+ years) it is possible you do not have a drainiage system, or the system is clogged / deteriorated beyond function.  For a newer home, perimeter drain tile was a requirement, but doesn't mean it was installed properly.

I recommend you hire a licensed architect to review your house's construction, the site and look for indications that a drainage system is in place and functioning.  They should be able to find out where the drain comes out, and to check it (after a rain or by doing a water test) to see if it is working.  If it is working, it is possible your system is undersized or only failing in a specific area.  It is also possible a second, lower water table exists that is below your current drain system.  A site change, to change the current flow of ground water or above ground water may resolve your issue as well.  Something as simple as a new drainage ditch, retention pond or higher grades around your building may resolve your issue.

Working with a professional will prevent you from worrying about a 'draingage expert' recommending a high cost repair when another option may be available.

Some drainage people will propose installing a new perimiter drain inside your basement walls.  This system gets the water that gets through the walls and under the floor, and carries it back out.  This is a last ditch idea.  The best method, to solve the issue for good, is to dig back down to your footers, repair the waterproofing on the wall, then place drainage board over it (this protects the waterproofing while allowing moisture a travel path to your drain tile).  Then place gravel fill with geo-fabric over it, then backfill.  Now, no matter how much water you have in your ground, it will be directed away from your basement.

A sump pump in the basement to handle flooding or low water tables below your basement slab will augment this system.

Once you have the moisture issue resolved, then worry about stopping mold.  In the interim, any materials that are growing mold need to be removed (use protective measures).  Make sure you run a dehumidifier at all times and keep air moving by turning on the basement hvac vents or putting some fans in the area.

Working with a licensed architect will help ensure you pinpoint the exact problem, and have a knowledgable person to discuss the options with before doing any costly work.  The architect will also be able to assist with finding contractors and overseeing that the work is installed correctly (It is worthless to redo the drainage if any one area is not done correctly).  Good luck.

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Mold Removal reviews in Chester

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Rating
We had a hole in our roof that allowed snow and rain to drain in the wall between our home and connected garage.
Chester Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
came out the next day after we called them for an estimate and spent a lot of time investigating the damage and explaining all the details of what needed to be repaired and why. They began work the very next day early in the morning. They were diligent in placing plastic sheeting to ensure the mess was contained and to facilitate drying. They removed only damaged wallboard and placed dryers. The gentlemen who re-textured and painted did amazing work and you couldn't even tell there ever had been damage. They were extremely fast, kind, and cleaned up the area well when done. We were so pleased we are asking for an estimate
to paint the rest of the house! Communication was always top notch and
Chester Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
was great to work with. We would not hesitate in hiring
Chester Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
again.
- nate G.
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Rating
Within a couple of hours of arrival,
Chester Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
's team had extracted about 20 gallons of water from my carpet and set up their drying equipment. That equipment ran for roughly 80 hours, during which
Chester Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
and his team members showed up 3 of the next 4 days to confirm all was well, that the equipment was still running and no fuses had been tripped, that the drying was occurring as it should be, and each day they communicated with me about what to expect. Talk about building confidence in the customer, they did exactly that. By Saturday morning, the room was bone dry. Aside from water that crept into the drywall (thus we lost the drywall), we had no damage to anything within the room; he even saved the carpeting! What a great job, and what great customer service.
Chester Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
and 2 of his techs were here at different times, and each was polite, informative, and they genuinely seemed to care very much about how I felt everything was going, they permitted no surprises, and they kept me informed about likely outcomes. Just fantastic!
- MATTHEW & KIMBERLY S.
A

Rating
Once mold is discovered you want things handled quickly and professionally, this is exactly what you will get with Guy. The very day I called Afordable mold removal they came to our home to look and give us the estimate. Any follow up questions/phone calls were immediately answered and the job was scheduled within the week. The entire experience was very professional, they are excellent and fair. The crew was extremely friendly and thorough. I would HIGHLY recommend
Chester Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
/Guy you won't go wrong.
- Karen E.
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Rating
The
Chester Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
Company was very professional and efficient in everyway. They always showed up on time and were professional in their presentation. The one outstanding area was their willingness to answer all our questions and we frequently had plenty of questions. They were patient and gave us all the details that we requested. They did their work with efficiency and were very careful about details. They also made sure that they cleaned up all their messes, such as making sure their shoes were clean or they wore covers over them. They stuck to the contract that had been agreed upon and were willing to go over each item in detail. They had a third party inspection company come in to inspect the work that had been done to make sure that the mold had been adequately dealt with. In fact the company commented that the areas that had been dealt with, especially the crawl space, which was the worst, was "exceptionally" clean. We felt very confident that our mold problem had been eliminated. In fact, it has been the first time since October that I had not been sick with an upper respiratory disorder. We certainly have utmost confidence in the work of this company. <br abp="1060" />
- janet S.
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My husband and I rented a townhouse downtown that was previously occupied by tenants with a very large shedding dog. They left the carpets in poor shape with stains, dog hair etc.
Chester Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
of
Chester Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
was contacted and came out with his crew on the same day to clean the carpets in order to accommodate our move in schedule. The carpets looked and smelled brand new! I would recommend this company to anyone needing to freshen up their carpets!
- Sherry K.
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On time, thorough and professional. The services are expensive but in line with competitors. Everything went smoothly and I would definitely recommend.
- Michael G.
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VERY IMPRESSED!
Chester Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
answered my phone call the middle of the day, came right out to my home, professionally made the inspection and recommendations. Also explained some issues to me and my handyman on the job.
- Cynthia F.
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Rating
Chester Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
was simply great. Our kids loved him and he was able to work even with our four-year-old shadowing him and asking him what he was doing. He identified several issues that could be corrected inexpensively and quickly. (Our house is apparently way more humid indoors than we realized.)
Most of the intial recommendations centered on improving ventilation and removing moisture from the air. He clearly explained how the moisture was accumulating in certain areas of the house and reassured us that even if more invasive treatment were warranted, it would cost far less than we feared. He is very knowledgeable, a good listener and has a very reassuring manner about him. I wish I had called him months ago and I would recommend him to anyone.

- Amanda A F.

All Mold Remediators in Chester, VA

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

AirMD

7700 Congress Ave

Allensbc.com

1077 Canary Ave

ANTIPEST TERMITE & PEST CNTRL

3905 HILLTOP FIELD DR
Chester

Bubbas Handyman Service

3803 Chamberlayne Ave
Richmond

Bug Busters Pest Control Services Inc.

1400 W. Third St.
Farmville

Building Science, Inc.

8436 Erle Rd
Mechanicsville

Cabana Boys

1801 Winding Way
North Chesterfield

Car Pool Detail LLC

5512 W Broad St
Richmond

COMMONWEALTH HOME INSPECTIONS

6009 SHADY WILLOW PL
Glen Allen

Disaster Response Inc. - VA, DC & MD

8200 Greensboro Drive
Mclean

Dr. Tom, LLC.

18140 Shumans Rd
Ruther Glen

DuBose Renovation and Restoration LLC

1015 Borden Road
Richmond

EnviroGroup LLC

3407 Floyd Ave
Richmond

Exterminating Unlimited, Inc.

10979 Leadbetter Rd
Ashland

Guardian Duct Cleaning

184 N 6th St
Richmond

Heritage Contracting Services

11903 Bowman Dr
Fredericksburg

Hickman's Termite & Pest Control Inc

2907 Hungary Spring Rd
Henrico

Home Inspex

P.O. Box 37563
Richmond

Jas Revolutioin

North Chesterfield

Jenkins Restorations

2102 N. Hamilton St
Richmond

JES Foundation Repair

1741 Corporate Landing Parkway
Virginia Beach

Kohmar Air Duct Cleaning LLC.

2022 Tacony Drive
Richmond

Loyal Termite & Pest Control Inc

2610 E Parham Rd
Henrico

Michael & Son Services Inc

5740 General Washington Dr
Alexandria

Michael & Son Services Richmond

1407 Cummings Drive
Richmond

MICROLAB NORTHWEST

7609 140Th Pl NE

Miller Tyme Roofing and Construction, LLC.

5509 Pony Farm Drive
Richmond

Moisture and Mold Solutions

10400 Chester Road
Chester

Moldlab

2501 Mayes road suite #110

MoldX Inc

PO Box 6046
Midlothian

NICHOLS INC

2361-D Greystone Ct
Rockville

Paramount Builders Inc

12940 Plaza Dr
Richmond

PuroClean Restoration Professionals

2425 W. Deerpath Drive
Powhatan

Quality Home Inspections

28 Paula Maria Dr
Newport News

RBS Services

425 E. Ellerslie Ave
Colonial Heights

RBVA INC

2910 Libby Terrace
Richmond

Re-Freshen

5102 W Village Green Dr
Midlothian

Remedia Pro

700 Dawn St
Richmond

Residential Inspections, Inc.

PO BOX 2098
Colonial Heights

Rob's Restoration

2808 Stanwix Ln
Richmond

ROLYN Companies

5706 FREDERICK AVE

Select Home Solutions

9119 Dickey Drive
Mechanicsville

Service Master of Richmond Inc

2809 Ackley Ave
Henrico

Slocum Contracting

1924 Williamstowne Dr
Richmond

STEP BY STEPP HOME INSPECTIONS

508 Smoketree Pl
Richmond

Triangle Sealants Corporation

PO Box 6128
Portsmouth

TRS Total Restoration Services

16408 Jefferson Davis Hwy
South Chesterfield

Virginia Basement

PO Box 244
Ashland

Virginia Powerwash

4060 Greyhound Ct
Midlothian

WACO INC

5450 LEWIS RD
Sandston

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