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Over 9,881 reviews for
Chesapeake Insulation Contractors from people just like you.

"The salesperson came to my home in March of 2015, did the presentation and during the walk thru noted that I needed to remove the knob and tube wiring before the" insulation could be installed. The electrical work was going to cost a nice penny so I asked if they would honor the quoted discounted price and they said yes. It was actually that I spoke to and he was very down to earth and a true professional that cares about providing great customer service. It took me a while to get the electrical done and when I called he knew who I was and as promised honored the quote. The installers showed up on time, completed the entire job in 5 hours. Let me home (inside and out) clean. From the first day I could tell there was a noticeable difference in the climate and comfort in my home. They did a great job and I would recommend them to anyone needing this type of service.

-Timothy B.

"Copper radiant installed professionally in one day. Ridge venting installed in one day. No issues with either...except, " did not advise that I should have also had my two turbine vents plugged. Most reputable roofers and tons of literature on the internet will advise you to only have one type of attic exhaust system. don't mix them. More vents to not equal better ventilation. In fact, multi-systems will work against one another. Advise you to consult a ventilation expert before considering adding any type of radiant . Called about this and they don't agree with roofing companies or the information out on the internet. They know better. don't risk your home on their narrow thinking.

-Patrick E.

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Local Articles in Chesapeake

Icicles hanging from roof

Avoid Ice Dams With Proper Attic Insulation

An ice dam can cause serious problems to your roof without proper insulation.

Kitchen exhaust fan

Home exhaust fans don't just remove stale odors. They also help improve indoor air quality.

Roof ventilator

Improper attic ventilation can cause your energy bills to rise and severely damage your roof.

insulation in attic

When cooler weather arrives, many homeowners hire an insulation contractor to perform an attic inspection.

husband and wife with two small children holding big check in front of home

Dream Kitchen Sweepstakes allows Maryland couple to rekindle their dream kitchen and bathroom remodel.

Angie's Answers


If you go the Better Business Bureau website you can see that the company has only had two complaints in the last 18 months and that they have both been resolved.  The company has an A+ rating.  This is not something you can buy.


There are genuine reviews on many 3rd party online review sites including AngiesList and the Better Business Bureau.  Simply do a Google search for "Smart Energy Today Reviews".


Sol Blanket Insulation acts as a radiant barrier, insulation and a vapor barrier.  It is not intended to replace traditional insulation but in fact compliments it and adds to it's ability to keep cool/hot air (depending on the season) in the home when the envelope of the home is properly sealed.  


Every attic is different and there are many other components that must be considered.  You mentioned an attic fan as well.  The heat that is radiated away from the ceiling by the Sol-Blanket Insulation is pushed out of the attic with an attic fan.  The US Department of Energy states that radiant barriers do work and suggest they be installed by professionals.


As with any product by any company if the product is not installed properly and other factors (attic fan, caulking and sealing, etc...) are not addressed then it will not be as effective.


A couple of comments about what Jim said:

1) Regarding type of insulation, in cold winter environments: Cellulose and fiberglass are actually about comparable in R value when installed - blown in cellulose runs from 3.2-3.8 R value, fiberglass batt 2.9-4.3 R value depending on manufacturer and whether hig-density or low density, high-efficiency or standard, according to official Department of Energy publications. Measured values in attic test cases, in areas with a true winter, after 10 years showed a decrease from 3.4 (in the test case) down to 2.1 for cellulose, and 3.5 to 3.3 for fiberglass batt, due to packing or matting. In an attic environment, there WILL be condensation or frost on the insulation at some point during the year (assuming an area with true winters) and in highly insulated houses commonly for a substantial time period each winter. Fiberglass packs down slightly from that weight but mostly rebounds, cellulose packs down and mats and does not substantially recover, so over the years cellulose loses 1/3 to close to 1/2 its insulation value, fiberglass about 10%.

2) a note on radiation barriers attached to the bottom of the rafters - there are a lot of installers and homeowners making two major mistakes with this product that can cause major trouble: First, be sure to terminate it short of the eave openings. I have seen cases where it was carried all the way out to the fascia board, thereby blocking all airflow on the underside of the roof. Even carrying it all the way to the eaves along the bottom of the rafters will block off ventilation to the main attic area. You have to leave the air space between the rafters open to full airflow from the soffit/eave area ot the ridge vent. Second, do NOT run it continuous from eave to eave across the full width of the attic - leave a gap about a foot wide under the ridge vents so warm and moist air in the attic can vent through the ridge vent. Closing the ridge vent area off with the radiant barrier effectively puts a vapor barrier around the main attic area, causing retention of the moisture which WILL accumulate there, promoting mold.


Obviously this is not a timely response to the initial question. However, for those who may be reading these answers at a later time, a couple of added thoughts:

1) the radiant barrier being discussed is basically heavy-duty metal foil or metallized surface on a plastic sheet, intended to reflect RADIATED heat (infrared radiation - think heat light, or heat you can feel at a distance radiated from a fireplace), the same way a mirror reflects light. Radiated heat is how a standard oven broils and how steam and hot water baseboard heat predominately work.

2) you generally should do NOT place a radiant barrier over the insulation that lies between and over the joists in a normal attic, especially in a region where the attic temperature can frequently reach condensation temperature (below about 45-50 degrees) - it may reflect back some of the house heat that is coming up from the house, but by destroying most of the temperature gradient from the house to the attic air destroys much of the driving force that moves moisture to the attic air and subsequent venting. Between that greater heat and the fact the barrier is also a moisture barrier, that makes a perfect condition for mold and rot in your insulation and attic wood, and has become quite an issue in energy upgraded homes because of retrofits that cut off airflow outside the insulation, but do not cut off the moisture source leaking thorough from the house. The proper and ONLY place for a vapor barrier in a normal attic insulation system is on the pressurized and normal warm, humid side of the insulation zone - directly above the ceiling drywall in the top floor, fastened to the UNDERSIDE of the ceiling joists or trusses, NOT anywhere above that. Perforated barriers are supposed to reduce this tendency, but the perforation area percentage is so small that typically they still act as a vapor varrier, just not a totally effective one.

3) radiant barriers reflect radiated heat ewith up to 99% efficiency but have basically zero resistance to CONDUCTION (body to body heat transfer at points of contact - think heat transfer from your warm hand to a frozen cold drink can, or hot pavement heat transfer to the bottom of your feet) - so there needs to be an air gap between the radiant barrier and the hot item passing the heat to it, otherwise the heat will just pass through it by conduction. Therefore, applying it directly to the sheathing (above or below) or manufacturing it directly on the surface of the sheathing defeats its purpose, even though this is commonly done.

4) there is a lot of discussion, particularly in the professional design community, about attic radiant heat barrier effectiveness and problems. Because they are being installed on the bottom of the sheathing or underside of roof joists, they act as a heat trap for the energy being conducted through the roof which would normally radiate into the attic air or be transferred by CONVECTION (fluid flow heat transfer) to the attic air, and be vented through roof vents, ridge vents, gable vents, etc. By trapping that heat, they are causing the underside of the shingles and particularly the felt and sheathing to get a lot hotter than they otherside would, essentially changing it from a system where the shingle top surface might reach 120-180 F and the inside surface of the sheathing about 80-140F in the summer, to making the entire roof system equal to the outside surface temperature. This causes more rapid shingle deterioration and cracking, and makes the felt or plastic moisture barrier under the shingles brittle and subject to failure.

Also, any moisture above the radiant barrier (from roof leaks or humid air coming into the area) is prevented from evaporating by the attic airflow which would normally remove it, so it starts acting like a steamer. I have seen both wood and metal lofts and attics become a major mold farm in months because of this effect, and a couple of roofs which started sagging due to rotted sheathing within 2 years of reroofing with tightly adhered radiant barrier. Some radiant barriers are vapor-permeable to reduce the moisture issue, many are not, but few actually are effective in letting moisture freely escape.

Having seen these products in use, and having analyzed and specified building products for use from the Middle East to the Arctic for decades, and having a Masters in Arctic Engineering (a degree predominately in energy conservation and heat flow), my personal opinion is that these radiant barriers will be banned by code within 10-15 years for unheated (so-called "cold" roofs) roofs, because they just do not use the principles of thermodynamics correctly. For more info on this issue Google the following search phrase  - moisture trapping by radiant attic barriers       and read the government (not the manufacturer) literature on the issue.

5) Unfortunately, the right way to handle this issue is to put the radiant surface on the OUTSIDE of the house - by using reflective materials on the roofing material. This is already done with flat roofs, house trailers, and industrial structures by spraying with alumiunum paint, and a few brands offer reflective aggregate shingles that are slightly more reflective and radiant than normal shingles. People obviously do not like this reflective surface from an aesthetic standpoint, though with solar cells coming into more general use this may soon be more widely adopted. The idea should be to keep the solar energy from penetrating into the building envelope at all, not try to re-reflect it away after it has penetrated throguh the roof system.

The sprayed-in foam has a couple of issues you need to be aware of:

6) it needs to be the low-pressure expanding type mixed for use around window frames, as fully expanding foam can bow joists or trusses and pop drywall ceilings free as it expands, and non-expanding foam actually shrinks as it cures, leaving gaps for air and heat flow alongside the ceiling joists.

7) being closed-cell it is essentially impervious to moisture, so the vapor barrier on the house side has to be EXCELLENT (incuding sealingof all penetrations), or it will trap household moisture escaping into the attic and promote mold and rot in the ceiling drywall and joists.

8) it tends to bleed chemical fumes into the house for a long period of time (can be noticeable for years), which may be objectionable to some people from an odor or environmental standpoint, and especially should be considered if any residents have severe allergy issues or respiratory problems.

9) I emphatically recommend AGAINST use of sprayed-in foam between ceiling joists or truss members in any area that can have cold attic air that could cause moisture condensation in the insulation, though this is probably not a significant problem where you live, assuming your Dallas is the city in Texas. For essentially year-around air-conditioned homes in hot climates, the problem can actually be condensation of attic air moisture on and in the colder ceiling surface insulation and on cold attic runs of air conditioned air, so attic ventilation becomes a critical issue to remove the moisture before it condenses.

In summary, having seen an awful lot of attic moisture and thermal problems, my personal recommendation would be to ensure excellent sealing of the house from the attic, use normal UNFACED fiberglass insulation, and instead of a radiant barrier ensure adequate full-attic ventilation. If you decide to got with a radiant barrier, then I would recommend a perforated one, sloping up towards the sides a foot or two and stopping a foot or so clear at the sides so moist air under it can escape to the roof joist spaces and be vented from the attic. I have seen this done several times with a fine nylon net strung above the insulation in the attic, supporting the barrier, resulting in something very similar to the double-roof system used in bedouin tents, where airflow between the two layers keep the hot air away from the living space.

Steve made a good point.  Also, while it isn't required to remove the old insulation you can check the ductwork, wiring, etc. with the old stuff removed,  You can also spray foam around all openings and holes in wall top plates to better seal your home as Steve was pointing out.  My concern is the potential for mold spores you mentioned in your question.  If you suspect there are any get a good company in to remove the old and clean the attic.  Another concern is asbestos.  Your home is old enough you could have it in there and that's worse than mold if released into the air.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services

A moisture barrier has to be on the warm side ie towards the heated side.  Most people would not install a moisture barrier in your situation.  (They also sell a paint that you can use on your interior ceiling? as a moisture barrier).  Rather most homeowners would hire an insulation contractor to blow a cap over the existing insulation bringing it up to your areas reccomended levels,,Your power company can tell you the level, I would guess R 40.  What you use is up to your wallet, the best is a spray foam that can be applied to the ceiling or over the whole shebang.  Being a bit of a miser I would trot on down to my local big box store and buy a truckload of cellulose and get a free blower for I and a friend to self insulte.  Big box= Menards, Lowes etc.  Cellulose= ground up paper treated with boron for insect control and fireproofing.  It has a high R value and will stop moving air loss from the home. Before you cap current mostly emply attic is ideal time to take sealant to any openings in the attic floor,  like pocket doors, canister lights electircal wires and close off the air leaks from inside.  If foaming skip this.  Hot air rises so you save yourself a ton air sealing the home.

An attic radiant barrier is also a possiblity see my blog for nifty results on it.

Jim Casper Old Energy Conservation Guru

ps moving existing insulation use a plastic rake


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Insulation reviews in Chesapeake


We were extremely pleased. Our LG&E energy audit showed an improvement in the efficiency of our home by 58%, and we received LG&E's $1,000 credit. They were professional and very knowledgeable. However, they only do insulation, we had another company (ACN Home Services, LLC) come do our air sealing (caulking windows and weatherproofing doors).
- Carrie C.

They arrived early in the morning and greeted me he and was very professional. As they accessed the attic they were very careful with my belongings in the surrounding areas and took all precautionary measures, as they started right away. explain in detail how the radiant helped ...More and what it consisted of. Once that was sprayed they ran tubing thru to blow the insulation in the attic. Again being mindful of my belongings. Once finished he showed me the finished product of how it looked and swept and cleaned up after themselves(which wasn't much) and off they went. I was satisfied with the way things turned out and I would recommend them to anyone in need of attic insulation.

came out less than 24 hours after my initial call and quickly evaluated the situation, provided a plan of attack an explained my options and budget and my need to complete this quickly in order to meet a short deadline for a reinspection so the closing of our home with the buyer could remain on schedule. In fact the inspector ...More for the buyer of our home was so impressed with The work 's crew did he asked me for their contact information so he could provide information to other sellers where mold remediation is required.
- Robert S.

is great. Very easy to work with. Shows up when he says- workds hard. Does a nice job. Work was done properly and well.
Great guy and if you need attic insulation- I would recommend him.
- James T.

First off the job I was wanting done was a small job. I installed a window in the mud room and when I removed the paneling in the wall to cut the hole for the window, I found unexpected voids in the wall from the previous work. I also put up a stud wall in the west of the mud room. My original plan was to fully insulate with foam the mud room because ...More it was the only room in the house left exposed to outside temperature changes. I expected to pay fully for the work.
, owner and president of Air Tight, came over to give me a proper estimate for the work I wanted done. I showed all that I wanted done from the garage end first and then I showed him the wall with the newly installed window. He noticed the voids in the wall and was surprised because his company "does not do substandard work," as put it. I was prepared to pay for the new work I wanted done, but he told me Air Tight of would do it for free.
Air Tight of stands behind their work more than a 100%. I could not be happier with the insulation. The house stays warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer with the new heating and cooling system without sky high bills. There is no more creaking or popping with the change in temperature any longer. As an added bonus to the foam insulation, there is less movement do to strong winds, one can hardly hear the wind or rain for that matter.
The employees are excited about their product and that excitement I picked up on at the Home Show, where I was introduced to foam installation as a retrofit option. The cost was reasonable and I expect to pay less in gas and electricity for heating and cooling over the next few years.
I highly recommend Air Tight of for new construction and remodeling for your insulation needs.
- Harold A.

The father came out and was very professional.He also held the ladder and helped me get up and down off the roof and was right there on it the whole time.He even told me when to stop as i was getting to close to stepping off the roof.
He installed a few openings to the attic and foamed around the area by the ac work that would help stop ...More intrusion of unwanted pests/rodents. He was a very pleasant man and very prompt. The next step is to meet his son and hope it will be as pleasant as the meeting of the father. Thanks,
- Gilbert and Rotonya L.

came on time for an estimate. He looked into my attic from both the hallway access and garage access. He proposed adding 16" of blown-in fiberglass insulation to bring my attic to a R60 rating. There was already 4" of fiberglass insulation between the rafters. He also said he would reposition ...More the existing sheets of plywood at no charge. He prepared a quote which included a senior discount and Angie's list discount, and I signed the contract. The work was scheduled for the following week and his two workers arrived on schedule, were very pleasant and professional, and got the job done in about 3 hours. They cleaned up afterward and didn't leave any mess. I chose initially based on their excellent reviews (and offer of a senior discount). was honest and accommodating so I was very comfortable contracting him to insulate my attic. I knew he'd do a good job and he did.
- Gayle D.

's crew showed up at the agreed upon time, got to work quickly and finished in a couple of hours. They took care to protect the floors and put fans in the basement windows to vent the fumes from the foam they used to seal the crawl space. They were courteous, professional and efficient, and also explained ...More the rebates available for the work through the local power company.
- David K.

Insulation Contractors in Chesapeake, VA

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

7 Services Inc

1700 Benefit Rd

A & A Insulation

PO Box 6082

A & J Home Remodeling

3212 South 13th Rd

A Plus Affordable Home Improvement, LLC

4409 Epping Court


Virignia Beach

A-1 Home Specialist, Inc

1037 Patrick Henry Way
Virginia Beach

A-1 Inc Exterminators

1704 S Park Ct

AAAA Self Storage & Moving

1332 Virginia Beach Blvd
Virginia Beach

Accel Pest & Termite Control

544 Central Dr
Virginia Beach

Ace Handyman Window Division Inc.

200 Commerce Cir

Ace Home Improvements

5629 Normandy Ave
Virginia Beach

Ace Renovations

320 53rd Street

ACME Animal Removal & Bee Control Services

5344 E Princess Anne Rd

Air Duct Care

801 Vanderbilt Ave
Virginia Beach

AKN Enterprises


Alexander Realty & Class A Builder

4604 Warwick Blvd.
Newport News

Aljase LLC

234 N Witchduck Rd
Virginia Beach

All American Home Improvements

3340 Dietz Dr

All Quality Home Services

1234 Lawson Cove Cir
Virginia Beach

All Trades



1209 Baker Rd.
Virginia Beach

Amer Building Inspection Services Inc

2364 Rookery Way
Virginia Beach

American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd

American Insulation Svc LLC

4018 Seaboard Ct

American Repairs LLC

2560 Lakewood Cir

Applied Mechanical Resources Inc

748 Lord Dunmore Dr
Virginia Beach

ArtDivine Painting, A Home Improvement Company

916 Westwind Place
Virginia Beach

Associated Independent Contractors Inc

PO Box 64307
Virginia Beach

Atlantic Exterminating Company Inc.

734 City Center Boulevard
Newport News


4701 Bromfield Ave
Virginia Beach

Bah Hum Bug Pest & Termite Inc

203 Expressway Ct
Virginia Beach

Bayshore Construction, Inc

3101 Virginia Beach Blvd
Virginia Beach

BCC Services Inc.

538 Wythe Creek Road

Beach Home Improvements

4408 smokey lake drive
Virginia Beach

Beach Windows & Siding

3200 Dam Neck Rd
Virginia Beach

Better Built Restoration Inc

1982 Northgate Commerce Pkwy Ste 7E

Brabble Insulation, Inc. Of VA

P.O. Box 10027

brinks flooring

1133 woodland terrace drive

Cardial Carpentry LLC

15160 Ashby Way West

Carlson Home Improvements

708 Queen Elizabeth Dr
Virginia Beach

CAT Team 1 Cleaning & Restoration

3673 sylvan lane
Virginia Beach


2008 Aloma Drive
Virginia Beach

Clean Air Solutions Inc.

2768 Mulberry Loop
Virginia Beach

Coastal Virginia Remodelers

4811 lauderdale ave
Virginia Beach

Coastline Construction LLC

680 Pinebrook Dr
Virginia Beach

Coastline Construction LLC

680 Pinebrook Dr
Virginia Beach

Colonial Exterminating Enterprises Inc

810 Forrest Dr
Newport News

Colony Construction & Home Improvement Inc

11861 Canon Blvd
Newport News

Commonwealth Property Services

2289 S Military Hwy

Crawl Masters

5905 Blackwater Rd
Virginia Beach

Custom Home Improvement & Repairs LLC

2000 General Booth Blvd
Virginia Beach

Customer Service Enterprise

6 maid marion circle
Newport News


Virginia Beach


1041 Ferry Plantation Rd.
Virginia Beach

D&D Siding & Remodeling Inc.

500 Central Dr
Virginia Beach

Danza's Heating & Cooling & Sheet Metal Works

3807 Whitechapel Arch

Daveco Contracting

5209 Carolanne Dirve/ Home base
Virginia Beach

DB's Handyman Service LLC

2484 Bayview Ave.
Virginia Beach

DJ Construction

2560 Piney Bark Drive
Virginia Beach

Done Right Handyman Service

501 Mooney Rd

Drylie Construction Contracting

3912 Windsor Woods BLVD
Virginia Beach



E T Lawson

4 IVY Home Rd

East Coast Contracting, Inc.

6022 Jefferson Ave
Newport News

EcoFoam USA

109G Gainsborough SQ

Ecovative Energy Inc

1102 Buckingham Avenue



Emergency Restoration Services LLC

1461 London Bridge Road
Virginia Beach

Energy Evaluations and Enhancements

1929 Killey Street
Virginia Beach


Manning Road

Excel Builders Inc.

4224 Blackwater Road
Virginia Beach

Floor to Ceiling Remodeling

908 Portland St

General Contracting Serv.

1090 Kempsville rd

General Repairs LLC

4901 Manor Avenue

Get It Done Contracting, Inc.

2133 Upton Drive
Virginia Beach

Getem Termite & Pest Control

1261 W 42nd St

Gilbert & Son Moisture & Structural Services

2768 Mulberry Loop
Virginia Beach

Guy Smith Heating & Cooling

221 Pennsylvania Ave
Virginia Beach

Hampton Roads Termite and Pest Control Inc

609 Innovation Dr



Hawkins Heating & Air Conditioning LLC

4445 Corporation Lane
Virginia Beach

Heidi's Comfort Zone

3300 Bridge Rd


15193 WYATT CT

Home Town Remodeling

3200 Dam Neck Rd
Virginia Beach

House Call Co

3301 Mariner Ave

J & N Construction Services

408 Britnie Court
Newport News

Jack Edwards Remodel Specialist

1324 Hillside Avenue

Jayhawk Exteriors Inc

1824 Engle Ave

Jazi Builders, Inc.

476 Richneck Rd
Newport News

JES Foundation Repair

1741 Corporate Landing Parkway
Virginia Beach

JNS Pest Control

PO Box 13763

Johnson & Johnson Remodeling

2245 Wake forest st
Virginia Beach

Johnson's Junk & Trash Removal

2012 Queen St

JP Harris Construction

344 Garrison Pl
Virginia Beach

JWS Contracting


K&R Crawl Space Solutions

4740 Quinwood Lane
Virginia Beach

Kaapland & Company, Inc.

1222 Executive Blvd., Suite 102


3300 Business Center Dr



Kingz Touch

3408 Newport Dr

LWB Professional Subcontractor,LLC.

3711 Victory Blvd

Maintenance Perfection

205 grace st.

Mako Maintenance

119 B
Bruton Ct

Manousos Enterprises Inc.

1753 Joplin Lane
Virginia Beach

Marc's General Repair

4902 George Washington Memorial Highway

Marquee Homes Inc.

538 Wythe Creek Road

Martz Plumbing & Construction LLC

1403 Larkview Dr
Virginia Beach

Matt's Repair

421 Dauphin Ln
Virginia Beach

Mechanical Service Co Inc

805 Seahawk Cir
Virginia Beach

MH Drywall

PO BOX 15656
Newport News

Mid-Atlantic Contracting

1625 Peoples Road

morales services


Mr. Handyman of Williamsburg and the Peninsula

736 City Center Blvd
Newport News

Mr. Rogers Windows

1019 Eden Way North

National Exterminating Co Inc

12484 Warwick Blvd
Newport News

Northern Craftsman LLC


Northridge Contractors Inc

3575 Bridge Rd Suite 8-439

NW Contracting, Co.

1264 Parkside Pl

Ord Construction Co.

3009 Pinewood Dr.
Virginia Beach


Virginia Beach

Paramount Builders Inc

501 Central Dr.
Virginia Beach

Peninsula Handyman Services

89 Sandy Bay Drive

PM-Pest Control LLC

2332 Locks Landing



Poquoson Construction, LLC

P.O. Box 2041

PPC Construction - Landmark Homes

P. O. Box 15823

Premier Roofing & Siding Contractors, Inc

1215 Bainbridge Blvd
Chesapeake & Newport News

Priority Pest Services

1509 Technology Dr

Provost Construction

273 Granby Street Suite 200

Pyramid Roofing

2635 Arkansas Ave

Quality Building Prods

PO Box 9386

Quality Building Products

905 Executive Ct


Newport News


2516 gilmerton rd

R.L. SYKES Heating, A/C & Plumbing

3521 Colley Avenue

Random Task

1120 Buford Ct.

RAS Remodeling

4235 Gadwall pl
Virginia Beach

Reliance Pest & Termite Inc

644 Prosperity Way

Remodel USA

605 Hampton Park Blvd

Richwaters Plumbing and Drain LLC.

3313 Burlington Street

Rorrer Construction

3730 Cardinal Ln

RS Andrews of Tidewater

620 Lincoln St


5385 Cobbs Station Rd
Cape Charles

RWA Restoration LLC

845 Crepe Myrtle Ln
Virginia Beach

Segar Contracting

3712 Mantle Ln
Virginia Beach


Virginia Beach

Smart Energy Solutions

302 Court of Elm

Smart Services

1385 Fordham Dr
Virginia Beach

Smart Services

1385 Fordham Dr
Virginia Beach

Soundrite-Acoustics, Inc.

209 S. Stephanie Street

Sours Contracting, INC

10445 Southampton Pkwy


Newport News

Sturdevant Construction

708 Gum Rock Ct
Newport News

Sweetland's Heating & Cooling

3101 Lafayette Blvd

T-N-T Construction

308 boundary rd

Taylor Construction

3617 Essex Cir


2709 Sonic Dr
Virginia Beach

The Air Conditioning Co

1129 Cherrytree Ln

The Crawlspace Company

717 River Edge Lndg

Tidewater Insulators

5610 E Virginia Beach Blvd

Tidewater Roofing

812 Plum Ave

TKJD Contracting LLC

Hartley Street

TMG Construction and Properties LLC

120 Pennsylvania Ave
Virginia Beach

Tom Lane Contracting Inc

15287 Diascund View Trl

VBG Home Repairs

5200 Texas Ave

Vick Homes, Inc.

Norfolk, VA




12637 S 265 W Suite 100

Waterside Pest Services

1809 Indian River Rd
Virginia Beach

Western Pest Services

4205 Virginia Beach Blvd
Virginia Beach

What's It Worth? LLC

80 Hermitage Rd
Newport News

wood chux cabinets llc

3013 belle haven dr

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