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A
"Initially I called a drain pipe contractor. At the time he was dealing with a heavy backlog of work. But he recommended that I call
because" he thought they might be able to do a quick relatively inexpensive diagnosis of the problem. So that is what I did.
sent their technician,
, out within a couple of hours. He was able to check nearly the entire network with his camera. He determined that there was no blockage of the drain lines, but the route from the backed-up drain (which carries most of the water) is by far the longest and least streamlined from a flow standpoint. That is very useful information. It tells me I need to reroute the backed-up line and probably increase its diameter.

-Wayne M.

A
"The office person was very nice and accommodating. The fit me in the same day I called which I really appreciated. The service person was prompt, professional and" completed the work quickly and efficiently. I was very pleased with the service and will use them again when needed,.

-Wilson D.

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Angie's Answers

?

First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.

 

Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.

?

From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

?
It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!
?

Well , you've certainly started a debate that will endure forever , but personally , having worked with both products , PEX is a better product . Now granted , the 1st time i used it

I was not impressed , cause it leaked.......NOT because the product was at fault, it was because I did not understand how to use the product !

The trick to using Pex , is to make certain that the fittings seat, they MUST be pushed together with force, and if you do not push with force to get the seat to seal, it leaks .

Therefore , when using PEX , you have constantly to be aware of leaving room to make your connections -Properly !

The beauty of PEX is that it bends , it is flexible and decreases the labor factor ,although the connection costs are often 100-300 % higher than copper , but again , it can cut labor costs in half  and it is safer to work with,  NO FLAMEs!

?
FYI: CPVC and PEX are two different materials and installed differently.  PEX is not intended to be glued but instead has special crimp fittings.  PEX is a brand name of one product that is manufactured slightly differently by others as well so it is important that the same brand fittings are used to match the pipe material.

Mobile homes used CPVC for years and some still do.  It works fine but is not as strong as a properly soldered copper pipe system.  Is the contractor installing this new plumbing a licensed plumber?  I'd be surprised if he is since he's using CPVC and not PEX (or similar) or copper.  PEX pipe is even cheaper than CPVC when run by a knowledgable plumber.  It doesn't require nearly as many joints since it comes in rolls and can flex through spaces easily.

There are some groups raising a fuss about BPA and other chemicals found in plastics that don't like the use of CPVC, PVC, or PEX pipe.  I haven't seen the results of any lab tests to confirm or dispute their concerns.  As far as durability goes it's fairly safe as long as it's properly installed and secured.  It is not as susceptible to hard water damage as copper.  It absolutely must be insulated along it's entire length to protect it from contact to other materials as well as freezing.  Also, the fixtures in the house need to be grounded electrically since the pipe itself provides no electrical protection against accidental shock or electrocution.  In a copper plumbed house the system is grounded so static electricity, a short in a wire near a water line, or lightning strike will carry the current out through the pipe instead of through the water to you, ideally.

If it's installed correctly you should be fine but make sure the contractor knows what he is doing and follows the proper procedures to use CPVC pipe.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
www.thomeservices.com
?
It is usually cheaper to remove part of the ceiling below and patch it after the leak has been repaired.  Remember that water can travel before settling in one area, causing the spot you've seen.  Just because it is below the toilet does not mean that the toilet is the problem.  The cheapest option is to pull the toilet and check the floor around the wax ring to see if it has been leaking.  A new wax ring only costs a few dollars.  When was the last time you caulked the shower in that bathroom?  The water can leak around the corners or at the door (if you have one) and travel along the floor joists until it pools in a lower spot on the ceiling below, then seep through.  It could also be a seal at the drain of the tub or shower. 

I get a few calls a year for this sort of thing.  It's usually something simple but can be a nightmare to diagnose, especially if the problem is intermittent.  Start with the simple possibilities and use deductive reasoning to narrow the possibilities.  Before you do a lot of damage it may pay off to hire a reputable contractor to help you make sure you've exhausted all of the imple and more obvious possibilities.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services

Drain Cleaning reviews in Ogden

D

Rating
The snaking man arrived in a bad mood. I do not know his name because he never bothered to introduce himself. He started off by informing me that he had already had a long, hot morning and said "so, what are we here for?" as if I was somehow wasting his time already. As I began to explain the issue, he interrupted me to say, "you think I know where your washer is, because I don't." I
Ogden Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
this rude man to the washing machine and he took about 15 minutes to snake it. It seems like a high price for such a short job, but I know that's how these things are. The drain seems to be clear for now and I was able to do a load of laundry, so what they did worked. However, I would never use this company again, nor would I recommend them to anyone else, simply due to the unpleasant experience of having this unprofessional person in my house. He was easily the rudest home repair/service person I have ever dealt with.
- Catherine H.
A

Rating
I purchased a package for Main Sewer line cleaning because I was having a problem with water backing up problem in my basement.
Ogden Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
responded quickly, and took the time to really get to know what my issue really was instead of just performing what I had asked for! He explained things to me and then proceeded to take care of the real issue very quickly. He left everything cleaner that it was. Exceeded my expectations!
- Jay L.
F

Rating
Monday August 24th my wife, attracted by a $40 coupon, placed an order to have kitchen and bathroom faucets installed. For
approximately 2 hours on August 26th, the
Ogden Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
technician,
Ogden Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
Ogden Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
worked on the job. Before any work could be done, however, a total final cost of work had to be calculated. This cost came to $580.00. Aghast at this price I reduced the order to work on the kitchen sink only, so reducing the cost to $400.71. As work proceeded Mr.
Ogden Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
discovered that the old drain assembly could not be fitted to the new sink unit. Therefore a further work order charge to install a new drain assembly had to be calculated. This charge came to $190.59.
Ogden Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
does not separate out the cost of parts from labor on its invoices. This way the company can hide the absurd disparity between extortionate labor charges and the cost of parts. I have since priced the PVC parts used for the drain assembly and estimated the cost be $23.93. If Mr.
Ogden Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
had used metal parts for the drain assembly, as was requested, the cost of parts to Mr. Rooter would have been several times more. Instead the cheapest parts possible were used. The sink trap doesn’t even have a clean out!!
On completion of the work Mr.
Ogden Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
asked me to check out the work. I questioned the leak in the faucet and was assured that remnant capillary water had to take time to drain out. But, the faucet continued to drain continuously. Mr.
Ogden Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
was called back. He informed me that the hot water seal in the handle was faulty and had to be replaced which he would do for something in excess of $200.00. The following day I uninstalled the kitchen faucet and installed a new replacement myself – the cost $151.94. The real cost to
Ogden Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
to repair the old faucet could not possibly have been more than the cost of a site visit, a new seal (generous estimate $25.00) and 10 minutes of labor.
At each step of the way, as the work was broken down into separate sales contracts, I was asked to sign an agreement threatening that if I didn't pay for the work when completed, I would face legal action including possible "legal ownership rights to your home." What business practice could be more draconian?
The whole experience of this repair service can be summed up as nothing less than predatory gouging. And the moral to this sorry tale -don't be fooled by coupon promos.
- John S.
A

Rating
Amazing experience. I called in the morning and
Ogden Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
was able to make it that afternoon. He was running a few minutes late because of traffic and called to sell me. He took care of a pesky plug and gave me a good education along the way. Can't recommend any higher.
- Aaron S.
A

Rating
Ogden Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
arrived on time. Super nice! Explained everything he was doing. Checked to make sure all was in working order & dry when he was finished. Excellent service & very professional. Would use them again in heartbeat! Locally owned, small family business. I like that! AND he is a Husker fan!!! Woot Woot!!
- Michelle H.
A

Rating
I was a new apartment manager and the service was provided in a timely manner and seemed to solve the problem for some time.
- Nancy H.
A

Rating
Overall we are very pleased with the work that was done. The first appointment was made for 2:00 in the afternoon, I had to leave work at 1:00 in order to be there on time, unfortunately I received a call at 2:30 letting me know they weren't going to be able to make it. Rescheduled for the next day and was told they would be there between 8:30 and noon, received a call at 8:30 letting me know they were on their way. They were able to replace the sink in the bathroom that I had purchased, unfortunately they had to also replace the pipes under the sink because they were corroding. They showed me the pipes and explained everything. The sink in the basement is an old cast iron sink and did not have any handles or faucets. They were able to order the new faucets and install them within a few days. They were very professional and I would definitely use them again.
- Deborah W.
B

Rating
The contractor who was working on our house fixed the problem. He said he was responsible for damage.
The appointment with Rhino wasn't necessary.
The person who answered the phone was polite about our cancelling the appointment a few hours before it was scheduled.
- Germaine S.

Drain Cleaning Companies in Ogden, UT

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A Plus Sewer & Water Co.

2950 W 500 S
Salt Lake City

A Rentmeister Plumber Inc

716 N. Jackson Ave.
Ogden

Aaaa Plus Rooter

3434 E Bengal Blvd
Salt Lake City

Akron Plumbing Inc

5966 Sugar Bowl Ln
West Valley

All Utah Plumbing, Heating and Air

12948 so. 4490 w.
Riverton

andrade property maintenance

4173 s 6180w
Salt Lake City

Apollo Rooter

PO BOX 520927
Salt Lake City

Arrowhead Plumbing LLC

1370 south hwy 89

Beehive Plumbing

PO Box 849
West Jordan

CASPER PLUMBING INC.

8722 GRAND OAK DR
Salt Lake City

Cavalier Plumbing LLC

1961 E Longview Dr
Holladay

Certified Fire Inspections

3140 South 460 West

Chaparral Plumbing

8680 S. Monroe St., Ste. A
Sandy

Complete Pro Plumbing

2637 N 400 E # 352 F
Ogden

Connectionz Plumbing

1248 Spyglass Hill Dr.
Syracuse

Curry Plumbing and Heating Inc

222 Maple Street
Tooele

Dan The Man Plumbing, Inc.

9942 Flint Drive
Sandy

Don Boothe Plumbing

1903 Cecelia Circle
Salt Lake City

Drain Snaker

PO Box 520072
Salt Lake City

DRAIN TECH INC

2342 S 550 W
Syracuse

Ed Wheeler

PO Box 1936
Ogden

ELECTRICAL & PLUMBING SVC.

107 so f street
Salt Lake City

ESCO Services Inc

2525 S 300 W
Salt Lake City

Exquisite Plumbing Remodeling Heating and Air

1965 West 11800 South
Riverton

EZ-Rooter & Drain Cleaning

PO Box 57443
Salt Lake City

Finlinson Enterprises LLC

922 W 2300 S
Syracuse

Flush Masters

PO Box 13023
Ogden

HADLEY PLUMBING

3279 JEFFERSON AVE
Ogden

Hanks Plumbing

182 S 540 W
Orem

Harris-Dudley Plumbing Co

3039 S Specialty Circle
Salt Lake City

Healey Plumbing Inc

260 West 500 South
Spanish Fork

Healthy Home Plumbing & Heating

3150 Metropolitan Way
Salt Lake City

Incredible Tone

2610 Adams Ave
Ogden

JamesPage construction

18wAlfred,Ave.
Kaysville

LEC Plumbing and Drain Cleaning

5956 S Stratler St
Salt Lake City

Master's Handyman

227 S 1065 W
Orem

MIKE BACHMAN PLUMBING INC

549 W 24TH ST
Ogden

Mountainwest Service Experts

71 Cutler Dr.
North Salt Lake

Nelson's Plumbing

2751 S 1000 W
Syracuse

O'Reilly Plumbing LLC

10971 Pleasant Hill Circle
Sandy

Paul Davis Restoration

7065 Commerce Park Dr
Midvale

Pipe Rehab Specialists

14443 Friendship Drive
Herriman

Plumbing Plus

2021 S 1100 E
Salt Lake City

Pond's Plumbing Heating & Air Conditioning

189 N US Hwy 89
North Salt Lake

Rentmeister And Co

1956 W 2250 S
Syracuse

Rescue Rooter Salt Lake City - 9151

2322 S Presidents Dr
West Valley City

Right Plumbing

PO Box 549
Kaysville

Robert W Speirs Plumbing Inc

412 Market St
Kaysville

Roto-Rooter

729 W 1390 S
Salt Lake City

Roto-Rooter

2743 Midland Dr
Ogden

Shamrock Plumbing

340 West 500 N
North Salt Lake

Shawn Meyer

440 East 8680 South
Sandy

Stallion Plumbing & Drains

4956 W 6200 S
Salt Lake City

Superior Water & Air Inc

3536 South 1950 West
Salt Lake City

The Best HandyMEN Services

1147 S 800 E
Bountiful

TRITON PLUMBING

6024 S 2200 W
Salt Lake City

Trusted Handyman

673 E 1650 S #A
Orem

West Jordan Concrete

5116 W 6435 S
West Jordan

White Knight Plumbing

PO Box 127
Midvale

WHITEWATER WHIRLPOOL BATH

377 N Marshell Way
Layton

Z ROOTER

2643 IOWA AVE
Ogden

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