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"He was responsible, respectful and professional. He was able to almost accomplish everything we had hoped that he would be able to do in the day, and will follow" up generously with us for the final small things.

-Miriam B.

"The staff was very prompt in returning the calls and scheduled the service within 24-48 hours. Arrived to perform the inspection in time and also arranged a rapid" repair on the spot. The needed re-wiring of sub-panel was completed the same afternoon once the diagnose was done. It is amazing how fast they could get to the spot and resolve issues. Their response after the service was prompt too. Will recommend to others.

-kelly L.

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Local Articles in Murray

electrician installing an LED light


Electricians require extensive training and continuing education to keep up with constantly changing technology. Your residential electrical contractor provides an important service to keep your home running safely and smoothly, so you want to hire the best possible person.

Burnt outlet

Electrical Troubleshooting

Although the potential dangers of electrocution and fire should make most homeowners wary of do-it-yourself electrical projects, there are some basic electric troubleshooting tips that can help when you are experiencing issues.

light switch in open electrical box without cover

If you can set the right mood in every room, why not install dimmers on every light switch in your home?

The more electronic gadgets we use, the more charging space we need. If the people in your home are fighting over space, consider converting your wall outlets to usb outlets. Not familiar with the process? An electrician answers top questions about usb outlets.

electrician tool called a voltage meter

If you own a home, you’ve probably had to hire an electrician to install new lighting or troubleshoot.

This member's old built-in refrigerator was leaking, so she had it replaced. (Photo courtesy of Angie’s List member Beth C. of Calabasas, Calif.)

Electrical kitchen appliances aren't always easy to repair (or replace) and the work can be costly.

Angie's Answers


This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.

As I understand it, you are looking at putting in a fan where there is no ceiling electric outlet. Since I am not sure, will try to break out piece by piece, undersanding these wouyld all be lumped into one job (possibly excluding wiring new outlet and switch). I hate to be so general, but access is the key here - if access is easy and there is a suitable light switch in the same room, cost can be at the low end of this range. If assess is poor and you don't want holes knocked in your drywall, then get more expensive real fast.

1) cost of fan typically $125-250 unless high end model

2) remove existing regular 4" box, install supports to joists and new box (ceiling fans need specially supported boxes due to the extra weight and swaying motion of the fans) $50-75

3) tap electric from existing circuit at existing box, upgrade existing light switch box to add one or two more switches (Adjustable for fan speed, 2nd for light, if so equipped), run wiring to ceiling fixture $125-250

4) put up fan, connect, test $75-100

So - total About $250-425 with no box there now, plus cost of fixture. A simple install to replace an existing fan, or install where the ceiling box was wired for a fan, would be only about $75-100.

This all assumes the existing nearby electric circuit can handle the addition of the fan - if not, then wiring cost will go up. It also assumes there is access via open attic or joists to install the wiring. Otherwise, installation cost OK but does NOT include repair to holes in drywall or ceiling to pull wiring.

Note also that an existing ceiling light box would probably NOT fill the bill - code in almost all jurisdictions requires 12 ga wire for fan motors, most household circuits are 14 or 16 gauge, so would need new wire pulled from a circuit with adequate capacity.

Get bids ! I worked on one job where the owner in a high-end house decided to put in fans with fancy candeliers underneath after construction was done - cost almost $3000 to do installation because all the wall and ceilings were finished in a high-end finish, so all wire pulling had to be done remotely - including removing siding to put in pull boxes at changes of direction and fasten conduit to studs. PLAN AHEAD !



The amperage is the rated power it can handle. Modern houses are generally built with 200 amp panels, and a lot of the newer ones are going 300-350 amps as more and more electronic devices and fancy and high-demand kitchen devices and increased lighting are used in homes.

Both are just as safe - the 200 amp one will just have many more breaker slots, allowing way more circuits, and providing more room for expansion in the future, especially for power-hungry things like shop tools. Each uses only as much electricity as is used in the circuits - the panel itself does not consume any electricity, so no long-term impact there. It is just a circuit connection box where the individual circuits are connected, with circuit protectors (breakers) in line before it connects to the main line to your electric usage meter.

Unless you are real tight on money on this job, I would upgrade to 200 amps capacity - the incremental cost is about $100-200 or so over the 100 amp panel. If your incoming power line cannot handle 200 amps, you could install a 100 amp main breaker to keep the power company happy but put in the 200 amp breaker panel, so in the future a main line upgrade could be done with only a main disconnect breaker upgrade of $100 or so, without having to change anything inside the house.

Having the larger panel, especially if 200 amp capacity all the way from the meter, can be a selling point (or rather, lack of a negative point) to a potential buyer with lots of electronics or who is into shop power tools. It would also facilitate conversion to electric heat / water heating if someone wanted to do that.


Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.


An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.


A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.


Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.

Electrician reviews in Murray


The work was excellent. and his assistant were on time and professional. The responsiveness to our request for the work required was fantastic. Appointment options were provided to get the work done. made sure that the original work would be done promptly, the next day, by stopping at our house in ...More the afternoon on his way home from work. Had the job done withing an hour. Fantastic!!!
- Michael M.

The original electrician assigned could not come at scheduled time due to a family emergency, but the company called to let us know the situation and offered to send another electrician working in our area at a later time in the same day. We were agreeable.
Electrician arrived at scheduled time, but didn't have a dimmer switch, because he ...More wasn't the original assigned electrician and didn't know what parts were needed. He offered to go their electrical supplier (if they were open, which they were - barely) and obtain the necessary dimmer switch.
Switch was replaced without any issues. He also looked at the bathroom exhaust fan, and said that the heater was actually not working, and there wasn't anything more he could do unless / until I purchased a new fan.
My "price" concern is with the charge for troubleshooting, which is in the neighborhood of $300, even though it seemed to require only about 15 minutes! They seem to have set amounts they charge for certain services, which can be a value, or not, to the homeowner. I ended up paying for the $88 value package (which presumably gave me $200+ value in work) plus another $21 for the service. Considering this included the switch, and he was maybe at my house for a total of an hour, that is probably typical...not any great value.
He also spent a fair amount of time describing other services I could purchase, but there was no high pressure or anything.
All in all, they were reliable, trustworthy and they stand behind their work, just need to get a good understanding of the charges to expect for the work you are having them perform.

Work was of high quality and was completed promptly without any surprises. Crew worked very closely with the cabinet installer planning ahead each day. They were very attentive and cleaned up the work place each day, no mess was left behind. Everything was explained in detail and our questions/concerns were answered patiently as the project progressed. ...More Price seemed fair and very competitive with other estimates I got for this job. Overall, we were very pleased with the final product and would love to use them again for future projects.
- Nicolae B.

sent out 2 workers to check out why we were experiencing an electrical when in our shower. It was diagnosed that we needed a grounding wire attached to our water line.
- Bob B.

was able to track down the root cause of 4 light switches that were
not working. It was an unusual cause linked to a switch that was
working. It took a lot of checking the electrical system. House wired in
a strange way when built. But, he solved the problem! was quick
to respond ...More and fit us in his schedule. This is the second time we have retained for our needs. Will use him again.
- Barbara F.

Great work - clean, professional, and prompt. They gave an estimate on the phone and it was less expensive than anticipated.
- Dan P.

Upon requesting service, Nick was very quick to respond to my questions and walked me through the pricing for the service. His technicians arrived on time, were willing to explain their work, etc. I did have a wall switch that went to an unknown location, and after some investigating the technician admitted that re-wiring the switch to the light would ...More require a smaller/more nimble technician to navigate the very tight attic space. Overall, however, the rest of the work was completed in a timely manner and to the quality promised. I would call them again for sure.

- Tim S.

was extremely professional and did a great job. It wasn't going to be easy but he worked quickly and efficiently to get it done. We would definitely use him again!
- Kelly D.

Electricians in Murray, UT

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!



A + Mechanical LLC

3575 S West Temple
Salt Lake City

AAA Restoration Emergency

249 West 4860 S


P.O. Box 540175
North Salt Lake

ACP Electric

3643 Highlander St
Salt Lake City

ADO Maintenance and Construction LLC

1016 Industrial Park Rd.

Advanced Maintenance Inc

PO Box 1781

Affordable Heating & Cooling

155 Baird Ave
Salt Lake City

Alexander Technical Resources

1263 Glenwood Ave. SE

Alpenglow Solar

3100 West Pinebrook Road
Park City

Alpine Electronics

668 N Freedom Blvd

Alpine Residential & Commercial Services

7897 Shaggy Mountain Rd

AltStart Auto Emissions

1816 S. Redwood Rd.
Salt Lake City

APS Construction LLC

1358 Pinewood Dr.
Salt Lake City

Arc Blue Electric Inc

PO Box 616

Armour Electric

P.O Box 1634

ASK Electric, LLC

13963 Portrush Ct


158 W 4640 S
Salt Lake City

Aspen Roofing

472 W 3440 S
Salt Lake City

Atlas Maintenance LLC

449 W 100 S

Audio Video Integrators

32 West 200 South
Salt Lake City

B & L Electric

5663 S 675 E
Salt Lake City



Basement Concepts

583 Sunset Stream Way

Basements & Beyond

4088 w 9470 s
South Jordan

Bautista's Plumbing & Electrical

Tuscaloosa Way
West Jordan

bestaff services LLC

680 north main lot e11

Big City Electric

640 North Main
North Salt Lake

Bill's Comfort

2614 E 1600 N

Bleu Skye, LLC

1901 Ryan Park

Bluebird Renovations

2560 Elm Ave
Salt Lake City

Bonfire Building Corp

338 E Cherrycrest Dr

bowen built electric llc,

6670 w. king valley cir,
West Valley

Briarglen Construction

11659 Briar Glen Dr

Bright Signs LLC

P.O. Box 167

Budget Plumbing & Rooter

390 W Main St
American Fork

Bullett Electric, Inc.

14693 Heritagecrest Way


PO BOX 1766

Captain Electric

1300 East 2100 South
Salt Lake City

Captain Electric

3214 North University Ave.

Captain Electric

881 W State Rd
Pleasant Grove

Caris Handyman

1957 North 1350 West

Carver Sheet Metal Works Inc

1349 Jefferson St
Salt Lake City

Castlemenders LLC

12607 South 1300 East

Castor Electric

4248 W 3925 S

Central Electric Co

564 Evesham Dr
Salt Lake City

Certified Fire Inspections

3140 South 460 West

Chimera Construction LLC

2717 south 1000 east
Salt Lake City

CHW Electric

6915 North 1540 East

CHW Electric Inc

P.O. Box 565

Compass Electric

834 North 900 West.

Connect Building Services, Inc.

10717 S. 455 E.

Copley Corporation, Inc.

10668 S Vermeer Way

Core Communications

11761 Long Shadow Dr

Cut & Dry Inc.

742 East 380 North
American Fork

Dan's Handyman Services

223 East Antelope Drive


Salt Lake City

Dave Passey Plumbing & Heating

9511 S 1930 W
South Jordan

Dave's Construction Inc

479 East 200 North Street
American Fork

Daystar Electric Corp

2464 Murray Holladay Rd
Salt Lake City


701 W 1100 N
Pleasant Grove

Design Iron Wood and Stone

1333 Riverside Ave

DesignTek Consulting Group

1600 West 2200 South #201
Salt Lake City

Dew Electrical Contracting

2662 Orchard Dr.

Diamond Electric Motor & Tool

1465 S 300 West
Salt Lake City

Diamond Electric Motor & Tool

1465 S 300 West
Salt Lake City

Diamond Service Electric

770 E Main St

Double D Electrical

1321 Earl Dr.
Salt Lake City

DTS Electric LLC

975 E. South Union Ave.

Earnshaw Electric Inc

4367 E Center Creek Rd
Heber City

Eclipse Lighting

1271 Presidential Dr
Woods Cross


478 e 3400s


107 so f street
Salt Lake City

ESCO Services Inc

2525 S 300 W
Salt Lake City


42 S 1100 W

Evans Electrical

67 West Caleb Pl

Evergreen LLC

3694 Crespi Ct F15


11538 S STATE ST

Falcon Electric LLC

150 West Gregson Avenue
South Salt Lake

Frandsen Technical Services LLC

642 South 500 East
Salt Lake City

Franklin Electric Inc.

2795 E. Morningside Dr.
Salt Lake City

Fuller Electric, LLC

114 E Shepard Ln


West Jordan

Harvard Handyman

907 Fairview Avenue
Salt Lake City

Haupt Electrical

295 East Center St


Salt Lake City


Salt Lake City

Hogan Electric Inc

4035 S Main

Holladay Handyman

2064 E 4675 S
Salt Lake City

Home Depot

3398 S Highland Dr
Salt Lake City

Home Service Electricians

105 S State St

Home Tech Inc

333 W Hope Ave
Salt Lake City

Hunt Electric

1863 West Alexander Street
Salt Lake City

Huntsman Electric & Horizontal Boring

9079 S 1150 W
West Jordan

Intermountain Wind and Solar LLC

1953 W 2425 S
Woods Cross

Jackson and LeRoy Remodeling

4980 S Highland Cir
Salt Lake City

Jayson's Mobile Automotive Service

5068 E Red River Dr
Eagle Mountain

JB Management

Park City

Jeff Warburton

326 American Ave
Salt Lake City

Johnston Construction LLC

1940 S 900 E
Salt Lake City

JP Electric LLC

890 N 550 W
North Salt Lake

Just Right Air

3066 S 300 W
Salt Lake City

KD Duncan Const.

1551 w riverdale

Kelly Electric

North Salt Lake

Kevin Hill & Son Handyman

667 W 7250 S

Kilowatt Electric

P.O. Box 1185

Kitmund Electric

3780 W 5850 S

Knight Electric Inc

1150 N Highway 89

Kore Investments LLC

PO Box 711336
Salt Lake City

L & J Plumbing & Mechanical

490 N. 300 W
Heber City

Landmark Home Warranty

PO Box 570

Laughing Gas Motorsports

185 East 26th st.

Leading Electric

918 West 1420 South

Leed Electric

279E 9585S


852 West 1560 North

Lighting and Electrical Service Specialist

286 West 2300 South

Live Wire Service

2440 E Evergreen Avenue
Salt Lake City

Makin Electric Service Inc.

6461 West 10900 North

Manor Service, Inc.

PO Box 928
Salt Lake City

Marks Handyman of Utah

8543 s redwood rd

Master's Handyman

227 S 1065 W

Mengs Landscaping

3966 W Spencer Crest
West Jordan


4042 Buck Hollow Lane

MJ Seven Restoration, LLC

P.O. Box 576

Monument Development Inc.

602 E 5640 S
Salt Lake City

Mount Zion Construction

715 e 100 n

Mr Electric of Provo

655 south Main

Mr. Electric

567 W 800 S


Salt Lake City

Nemal Electronics

12240 NE 14th Ave

Odessa Construction

805 Skyline Dr

Olsen Electric Inc.

2214 Comstock Drive
Park City

Orange Electric

West Jordan

Osmond Electric

West Jordan

P Calvo Electric, Inc.

4424 W 950 N


North Salt Lake

Paul Davis Restoration

7065 Commerce Park Dr

Pibi Tile Inc

3596 S 300 W
Salt Lake City

Pickering Electric

612 N 1400 E

Pond's Plumbing Heating & Air Conditioning

189 N US Hwy 89
North Salt Lake

Potable Divers Inc.

2188 East Cassidy Way
Eagle Mountain

Powell's Pro Building and Remodeling

7564 S Michelle Way

Power Evolution

4525 S Wasatch Blvd, Ste 330
Salt Lake City

PowerHouse Electric, Inc.

930 North 1610 West Suite B

Pro Budget Handyman

1780 W. Sugar Factory Rd.
West Jordan

Property Guardian

7666 N. Mountain Ash Way

Prosperity Contracting

Salt Lake City

Provo Mr. Electric

655 S. Main Street

Quality Pool & Spa, Inc.

3330 S 300 W
Salt Lake City

R. Scott Willey Electric

3625 North 2825 East

Ready to Lease

4083 Hayes Circle

Red Butte Construction LLC

1837 S 600 E
Salt Lake City

Red Peak Electric Inc

9526 Chavez Dr
South Jordan

Reed's Built-Ins

795 Columbia Ln

RELCo Electric Company LLC

1212 Athleen Dr
West Jordon

Retrospect Building & Design

10348 S Millerton Dr
South Jordan

Rich Deianni Remodeling & Repair

1269 Alice Ln

RLR Construction, LLC

3207 pingree ave.

RMS Electric

606 Marshall Way #103

Rob's Machinery Repair & Electrical Service

4139 Shoshone Lake Dr
West Jordan


Salt Lake City

Robert W Speirs Plumbing Inc

412 Market St

Rocky Mountain ATV and MC

1551 American Way

Rocky Mountain Audio Video, LLC

806 W Moss Springs Cv
South Jordan

Royce Custom Finishes LLC

2879 N Uppa Spring St

Rubble Wreckers & Renovations

930 East 300 South
Salt Lake City

Sabin Electric

455 N University Ave #201

Salmon & Sons Construction LLC

641 S 700 E

Salmon Electrical Contractors

1778 West 1180 South
Woods Cross


P O BOX 683324
Park City

Sandy Handyman Today

10425 S. Larkspur Drive

Schmidt SLC / Kurt Schmidt

7730 South Union Park Av

Scott Pryor Handyman Services

4172 West Zodiac Dr.

Shawn Meyer

440 East 8680 South

SS Builders

11124 South Hampton Way
South Jordan



Superior Quality Handyman Services

308 Williams Ln.

Synergy Power

531 River Meadow Dr


733 North King Street

Ted Konold Construction

10164 S Phlox St

Thain Electric

646 W. Sunset Crest Way


45 S 1100 E
Salt Lake City

Topp Remodeling & Construction

524 East 6295 South

Utah electric LLC

10192 South 2165 East

UTR, Urban Tree Releaf Inc

527 east 300 north
American Fork

Vantage Tech Service

262 Julie Anna Dr.

Von Construction

1256 Darby Cir
Salt Lake City

Warburton Electric

842 W 2100 N
Pleasant Grove


12637 S 265 W Suite 100

Wasatch Electric

2455 W 1500 S
Salt Lake City

What a Cable

538 South State Street


PO BOX 701641
Salt Lake City

Wright Way Electric

294 Maple Dr
N Salt Lake

Yates Handyman

1391 E 850 S

Yellow Van Handyman

PO Box 1314
Salt Lake City

Young Electric and Audio

2770 W. Golden Meadows Dr.

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