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"The 2 electricians went above & beyond our expectations. They took their time & performed great customer service which goes a long way. I will definitely" recommend and contract their services in the future.

-Jaclyn G.

"I used a Angie's Deal coupon to have
check a outlet under the sink that I was having problems with. They were prompt, having two electricians" come for the call. Everything checked out ok but they did comment that the main electric box was very old. Since the house was built in 1972 and it's the original box, they were correct. My boyfriend asked for an estimate to replace the box. I did feel the estimate was probably on the high side, but also wasn't in the mood to go through the hassle of getting other estimates. One electrician stayed to do the job and the other came back with materials and then left. He returned when job was complete to collect the payment. Both were very professional and did a great job explaining what they were doing as well as leaving the work area clean and tidy. New panel looks great.


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Local Articles in Murray

Hiring an Electrician

Good electricians require extensive training and continuing education to keep up with constantly changing technology. Your residential electrical contractor provides an important service to keep your home running safely and smoothly, so you want to hire the best possible person. Read this Homeowner's Guide to Hiring an Electrician to learn more before you hire.

Common Electrical Problems

Although the potential dangers of electrocution and fire should make most homeowners wary of do-it-yourself electrical projects, there are some basic electric troubleshooting tips that can help when you are experiencing issues.

Solar power panels
Heating & A/C, Electrical, Solar Panels

Homeowners should install green energy before the end of 2016 for a 30 percent tax credit.

wind power
Electrical, Solar Panels

For wind power to work well in a residential setting, it needs much space and a free-flowing breeze.

computer energy-saving tips
Electrical, Computer Sales

Whether you have a desktop or laptop, consider these tips to save electricity — and cash.

Angie's List ideas
Remodeling - General, Plumbing, Electrical, Auto Service, Roofing, Heating & A/C

Here are some of our favorite tips from highly rated service professionals over the past 20 years.

Angie's Answers

Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).


As I understand it, you are looking at putting in a fan where there is no ceiling electric outlet. Since I am not sure, will try to break out piece by piece, undersanding these wouyld all be lumped into one job (possibly excluding wiring new outlet and switch). I hate to be so general, but access is the key here - if access is easy and there is a suitable light switch in the same room, cost can be at the low end of this range. If assess is poor and you don't want holes knocked in your drywall, then get more expensive real fast.

1) cost of fan typically $125-250 unless high end model

2) remove existing regular 4" box, install supports to joists and new box (ceiling fans need specially supported boxes due to the extra weight and swaying motion of the fans) $50-75

3) tap electric from existing circuit at existing box, upgrade existing light switch box to add one or two more switches (Adjustable for fan speed, 2nd for light, if so equipped), run wiring to ceiling fixture $125-250

4) put up fan, connect, test $75-100

So - total About $250-425 with no box there now, plus cost of fixture. A simple install to replace an existing fan, or install where the ceiling box was wired for a fan, would be only about $75-100.

This all assumes the existing nearby electric circuit can handle the addition of the fan - if not, then wiring cost will go up. It also assumes there is access via open attic or joists to install the wiring. Otherwise, installation cost OK but does NOT include repair to holes in drywall or ceiling to pull wiring.

Note also that an existing ceiling light box would probably NOT fill the bill - code in almost all jurisdictions requires 12 ga wire for fan motors, most household circuits are 14 or 16 gauge, so would need new wire pulled from a circuit with adequate capacity.

Get bids ! I worked on one job where the owner in a high-end house decided to put in fans with fancy candeliers underneath after construction was done - cost almost $3000 to do installation because all the wall and ceilings were finished in a high-end finish, so all wire pulling had to be done remotely - including removing siding to put in pull boxes at changes of direction and fasten conduit to studs. PLAN AHEAD !



Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.


An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.


A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.


Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.


If you already have a fixture there, around $100 plus or minus about $30 if not over 7 or 30 pounds, or about $200-300 if weighs over about 7 or 30 pounds. The 7 or 30 pound ranges are dependent on whether the existing box is plastic or a standard Square-D type or equivalent metal one, because each type of box can only hold so much weight. If existing box is rated 70 pounds or more (ceiling fan or large chandelier rated) then the $100 range should do it regardless.


I am assuming when you say mini-pendants you meant from a single box if more than one. If you meant two separate by some feet, add probably about $100 more to add a second box, ASSUMING they will both be run off the same single switch.


IF you do NOT have a light fixture there now, then can run from $150-300 range if there is easy access from above (open attic) to $500 or more if has to tear into drywall to install wiring and box so you then have to get drywall contractor and painter in to repair the damages.

Electrician reviews in Murray


It went great ,
Murray Electricians Provider Name Locked
was on time and very knowledgeable. He recommended what attic I fan I should get and went to Home Depot to purchase it for me.
Murray Electricians Provider Name Locked
is a very good communicate and electrician. I would highly recommend for any electrical work.
- joseph G.

Checked all outlets inside and out. Inspected areas in attic, found exhaust fan not working. Checked wiring on screen porch and found wires with coatings stripped off, , not properly wired at all. He was so professional and personable. I felt very confident with his recommendations. will be scheduling time for work to be done.
- Beverly D.

The owner of
Murray Electricians Provider Name Locked
came Tuesday and determined that we needed a new circuit breaker for the new 3 pronged plug. He called in a younger associate to aid him in installing all the equipment. He then left to purchase the supplies needed. His associate set up the new plug. Ran the wires from the circuit box then above the ceiling tiles in the basement all the way to our laundry room on the other side of the house next to the kitchen. The next morning he arrived early to install the connecting box and run the wires and connect them to the main box. They had to work in an odd space that was awkward. They did a good job under close conditions. Then they cleaned up when they were done.

I would say they were very polite and professional. They did the work I asked them to do. The mistake was mine in listening to Lowes as to the type of plug the old dryer used. They were wrong. Unfortunately my washer and dryer were stacked in a closet. I could not pull them out to check to see what kind of plug was already there.

My only complaint about this Electric company came when the new washer and dryer were delivered. The delivery guys from Home Depot told me that the correct Electric plug was already there.

So no new plug was necessary. Instead we would have just been charged for their initial visit and not the $600. The delivery guy said that checking for this plug should have been the first thing the electrician did. For this reason I gave
Murray Electricians Provider Name Locked
a lower score.... A B and not an A.
- Fred and Barb F.

Murray Electricians Provider Name Locked
and his partner arrived on time, cleaned up their mess, and provided excellent service. The price was reasonable too.
- Josef S.

I bought a home built in the 1980s that had recently had a kitchen remodel. The individual who did the wiring did a very poor job. One of the GFCIs did not work at all and when my contractor replaced it, the microwave and a bank of lights stopped working completely. Another outlet was not attached to the stud and you could not plug anything into it because when you pressed on it to insert a plug the receptacle sagged back into the wall cavity. All of this was discovered two days before I moved in. As I am new to the area and a single woman, I turned to Angie's list to help me find a reputable electrician.
Murray Electricians Provider Name Locked
responded to my inquiry the same day and was at my house the next. He got everything up and running in under an hour. I was so impressed that I hired him again to come back and do some additional work that was less urgent than having my microwave and lights working.
Murray Electricians Provider Name Locked
is very honest, sincere and courteous. I highly recommend him. He will treat you fairly and with respect.
- Barbara R.

Murray Electricians Provider Name Locked
is fantastic! He provided us a fair estimate and performed all the work to code. We enjoyed having him perform the work and have had him back to do a few more things for us. We would highly recommend him for anyone needing a trustworthy provider who will perform
- Harold F.

Murray Electricians Provider Name Locked
arrived on time and started the work immediately. Even after the work ended up being more difficult than planed, they continued and were able to find the problem and complete the job. Very pleasant and polite young men, they went above and beyond. I must say I was extremely pleased that they stuck with their original estimate, even though the job was more challenging than expected. We will certainly use
Murray Electricians Provider Name Locked
for our future needs.

Murray Electricians Provider Name Locked
is always very punctual and extremely polite. He tells you what time he will be there and is there on time. He comes as soon after you call him (usually right away) and doesn't cancel or change days on you. He is very careful, efficient, and very tidy. He makes sure to clean up anything that needs to be cleaned up after he's finished working. He always asks if there's anything else that needs to be fixed, installed, etc. He's awesome. I will never call another electrician again (unless of course he gets too busy and then I will be really disappointed :))!
- Kevin Y.

Electricians in Murray, UT

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A + Mechanical LLC

3575 S West Temple
Salt Lake City

AAA Restoration Emergency

249 West 4860 S

ACP Electric

3643 Highlander St
Salt Lake City

ADO Maintenance and Construction LLC

1016 Industrial Park Rd.

Affordable Heating & Cooling

155 Baird Ave
Salt Lake City

Alexander Technical Resources

1263 Glenwood Ave. SE

Alpenglow Solar

3100 West Pinebrook Road
Park City

Alpine Electronics

668 N Freedom Blvd

Alpine Residential & Commercial Services

7897 Shaggy Mountain Rd

AltStart Auto Emissions

1816 S. Redwood Rd.
Salt Lake City

APS Construction LLC

1358 Pinewood Dr.
Salt Lake City

Arc Blue Electric Inc

PO Box 616

Armour Electric

P.O Box 1634

ASK Electric, LLC

13963 Portrush Ct


158 W 4640 S
Salt Lake City

Aspen Roofing

472 W 3440 S
Salt Lake City

Atlas Maintenance LLC

449 W 100 S

Audio Video Integrators

32 West 200 South
Salt Lake City

B & L Electric

5663 S 675 E
Salt Lake City



Basement Concepts

583 Sunset Stream Way

Basements & Beyond

4088 w 9470 s
South Jordan

Big City Electric

640 North Main
North Salt Lake

Bill's Comfort

2614 E 1600 N

Black Diamond Electric

3080 S 300 W
South Salt Lake

Bluebird Renovations

2560 Elm Ave
Salt Lake City

Bonfire Building Corp

338 E Cherrycrest Dr

Briarglen Construction

11659 Briar Glen Dr

Bullett Electric, Inc.

14693 Heritagecrest Way


PO BOX 1766

Captain Electric

1300 East 2100 South
Salt Lake City

Captain Electric

3214 North University Ave.

Captain Electric

881 W State Rd
Pleasant Grove

Carver Sheet Metal Works Inc

1349 Jefferson St
Salt Lake City

Castor Electric

4248 W 3925 S

Central Electric Co

564 Evesham Dr
Salt Lake City

Certified Fire Inspections

3140 South 460 West

Chimera Construction LLC

2717 south 1000 east
Salt Lake City

CHW Electric

6915 North 1540 East

CHW Electric Inc

P.O. Box 565

Compass Electric

834 North 900 West.

Copley Corporation, Inc.

10668 S Vermeer Way

Core Communications

11761 Long Shadow Dr

Cut & Dry Inc.

742 East 380 North
American Fork

Dan's Handyman Services

223 East Antelope Drive


Salt Lake City

Dave Passey Plumbing & Heating

9511 S 1930 W
South Jordan

Dave's Construction Inc

479 East 200 North Street
American Fork

Daystar Electric Corp

2464 Murray Holladay Rd
Salt Lake City

DesignTek Consulting Group

1600 West 2200 South #201
Salt Lake City

Dew Electrical Contracting

2662 Orchard Dr.

Diamond Electric Motor & Tool

1465 S 300 West
Salt Lake City

Diamond Service Electric

770 E Main St

Double D Electrical

1321 Earl Dr.
Salt Lake City

DTS Electric LLC

975 E. South Union Ave.

Earnshaw Electric Inc

4367 E Center Creek Rd
Heber City

Eclipse Lighting

1271 Presidential Dr
Woods Cross


478 e 3400s


107 so f street
Salt Lake City

ESCO Services Inc

2525 S 300 W
Salt Lake City


42 S 1100 W

Evans Electrical

67 West Caleb Pl

Evergreen LLC

3694 Crespi Ct F15


11538 S STATE ST

Frandsen Technical Services LLC

642 South 500 East
Salt Lake City

Franklin Electric Inc.

2795 E. Morningside Dr.
Salt Lake City

Fuller Electric, LLC

114 E Shepard Ln


West Jordan

Harvard Handyman

907 Fairview Avenue
Salt Lake City

Haupt Electrical

295 East Center St


Salt Lake City


Salt Lake City

Hogan Electric Inc

4035 S Main

Holladay Handyman

2064 E 4675 S
Salt Lake City

Home Depot

3398 S Highland Dr
Salt Lake City

Home Service Electricians

105 S State St

Home Tech Inc

333 W Hope Ave
Salt Lake City

Intermountain Wind and Solar LLC

1953 W 2425 S
Woods Cross

Jackson and LeRoy Remodeling

4980 S Highland Cir
Salt Lake City

Jeff Warburton

326 American Ave
Salt Lake City

Johnston Construction LLC

1940 S 900 E
Salt Lake City

JP Electric LLC

890 N 550 W
North Salt Lake

Just Right Air

3066 S 300 W
Salt Lake City

Kelly Electric

North Salt Lake

Kevin Hill & Son Handyman

667 W 7250 S

Kilowatt Electric

P.O. Box 1185

Kitmund Electric

3780 W 5850 S

Kore Investments LLC

PO Box 711336
Salt Lake City

Landmark Home Warranty

PO Box 570

Leading Electric

918 West 1420 South

Leed Electric

279E 9585S

Live Wire Service

2440 E Evergreen Avenue
Salt Lake City

Makin Electric Service Inc.

6461 West 10900 North

Manor Service, Inc.

PO Box 928
Salt Lake City

Master's Handyman

227 S 1065 W

Mengs Landscaping

3966 W Spencer Crest
West Jordan


4042 Buck Hollow Lane

Monument Development Inc.

602 E 5640 S
Salt Lake City

Mr Electric of Provo

655 south Main

Mr. Handyman of Sandy and Draper

7105 S Highland Dr Ste 102
Salt Lake City


Salt Lake City

Odessa Construction

805 Skyline Dr

Osmond Electric

West Jordan

P Calvo Electric, Inc.

4424 W 950 N


North Salt Lake

Paul Davis Restoration

7065 Commerce Park Dr

Pickering Electric

612 N 1400 E

Pond's Plumbing Heating & Air Conditioning

189 N US Hwy 89
North Salt Lake

Powell's Pro Building and Remodeling

7564 S Michelle Way

Power Evolution

4525 S Wasatch Blvd, Ste 330
Salt Lake City

PowerHouse Electric, Inc.

930 North 1610 West Suite B

Pro Budget Handyman

1780 W. Sugar Factory Rd.
West Jordan

Property Property LLC

340 E 400 S Ste 50
Salt Lake City

Quality Pool & Spa, Inc.

3330 S 300 W
Salt Lake City

R. Scott Willey Electric

3625 North 2825 East

Red Butte Construction LLC

1837 S 600 E
Salt Lake City


701 W 1100 N
Pleasant Grove

Red Peak Electric Inc

9526 Chavez Dr
South Jordan

Reed's Built-Ins

795 Columbia Ln

RELCo Electric Company LLC

1212 Athleen Dr
West Jordon

Retrospect Building & Design

10348 S Millerton Dr
South Jordan

Rich Deianni Remodeling & Repair

1269 Alice Ln

RLR Construction, LLC

3207 pingree ave.

RMS Electric

606 Marshall Way #103

Rob's Machinery Repair & Electrical Service

4139 Shoshone Lake Dr
West Jordan


Salt Lake City

Robert W Speirs Plumbing Inc

412 Market St

Rocky Mountain ATV and MC

1551 American Way

Rocky Mountain Audio Video, LLC

806 W Moss Springs Cv
South Jordan

Salmon & Sons Construction LLC

641 S 700 E


P O BOX 683324
Park City

Schmidt SLC / Kurt Schmidt

7730 South Union Park Av

Scott Pryor Handyman Services

4172 West Zodiac Dr.

Shawn Meyer

440 East 8680 South

SS Builders

11124 South Hampton Way
South Jordan



Synergy Power

531 River Meadow Dr


733 North King Street

Ted Konold Construction

10164 S Phlox St

Thain Electric

646 W. Sunset Crest Way


45 S 1100 E
Salt Lake City

Topp Remodeling & Construction

524 East 6295 South

Utah electric LLC

10192 South 2165 East

UTR, Urban Tree Releaf Inc

527 east 300 north
American Fork

Vantage Tech Service

262 Julie Anna Dr.

Von Construction

1256 Darby Cir
Salt Lake City


12637 S 265 W Suite 100

What a Cable

538 South State Street

Wildcat Electric LLC

856 Amanda Ave
Salt Lake City


PO BOX 701641
Salt Lake City

Yates Handyman

1391 E 850 S

Yellow Van Handyman

PO Box 1314
Salt Lake City

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