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Local Articles in Bountiful

Hiring an Electrician

Good electricians require extensive training and continuing education to keep up with constantly changing technology. Your residential electrical contractor provides an important service to keep your home running safely and smoothly, so you want to hire the best possible person. Read this Homeowner's Guide to Hiring an Electrician to learn more before you hire.

Electrical Troubleshooting

Although the potential dangers of electrocution and fire should make most homeowners wary of do-it-yourself electrical projects, there are some basic electric troubleshooting tips that can help when you are experiencing issues.

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Remodeling - General, Plumbing, Electrical, Auto Service, Roofing, Heating & A/C

Here are some of our favorite tips from highly rated service professionals over the past 20 years.

orange brick house in winter
Garage Doors, Roofing, Holiday Decorating, Gutter Cleaning, Pest Control/Exterminating, Lawn & Yard Work, Carpet Cleaning, Chimney Sweep, Fireplaces, Electrical, Handymen, Housecleaning, Animal & House Sitting, Cabinet Refacing/Restoration, Lighting, Wallpapering, Plumbing, Heating & A/C, Auto Service, Auto Tires, Allergy & Immunology

It's the time of year when the winter weather can take a toll. Follow this winter maintenance checklist to protect your home, your car and your health.

Newly installed circuit breaker box in a home

Replacing an old circuit breaker box merits the expense — for a number of reasons.

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Heating & A/C, Electrical, Solar Panels

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Angie's Answers

Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).


As I understand it, you are looking at putting in a fan where there is no ceiling electric outlet. Since I am not sure, will try to break out piece by piece, undersanding these wouyld all be lumped into one job (possibly excluding wiring new outlet and switch). I hate to be so general, but access is the key here - if access is easy and there is a suitable light switch in the same room, cost can be at the low end of this range. If assess is poor and you don't want holes knocked in your drywall, then get more expensive real fast.

1) cost of fan typically $125-250 unless high end model

2) remove existing regular 4" box, install supports to joists and new box (ceiling fans need specially supported boxes due to the extra weight and swaying motion of the fans) $50-75

3) tap electric from existing circuit at existing box, upgrade existing light switch box to add one or two more switches (Adjustable for fan speed, 2nd for light, if so equipped), run wiring to ceiling fixture $125-250

4) put up fan, connect, test $75-100

So - total About $250-425 with no box there now, plus cost of fixture. A simple install to replace an existing fan, or install where the ceiling box was wired for a fan, would be only about $75-100.

This all assumes the existing nearby electric circuit can handle the addition of the fan - if not, then wiring cost will go up. It also assumes there is access via open attic or joists to install the wiring. Otherwise, installation cost OK but does NOT include repair to holes in drywall or ceiling to pull wiring.

Note also that an existing ceiling light box would probably NOT fill the bill - code in almost all jurisdictions requires 12 ga wire for fan motors, most household circuits are 14 or 16 gauge, so would need new wire pulled from a circuit with adequate capacity.

Get bids ! I worked on one job where the owner in a high-end house decided to put in fans with fancy candeliers underneath after construction was done - cost almost $3000 to do installation because all the wall and ceilings were finished in a high-end finish, so all wire pulling had to be done remotely - including removing siding to put in pull boxes at changes of direction and fasten conduit to studs. PLAN AHEAD !



Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.


An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.


A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.


Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.


If you already have a fixture there, around $100 plus or minus about $30 if not over 7 or 30 pounds, or about $200-300 if weighs over about 7 or 30 pounds. The 7 or 30 pound ranges are dependent on whether the existing box is plastic or a standard Square-D type or equivalent metal one, because each type of box can only hold so much weight. If existing box is rated 70 pounds or more (ceiling fan or large chandelier rated) then the $100 range should do it regardless.


I am assuming when you say mini-pendants you meant from a single box if more than one. If you meant two separate by some feet, add probably about $100 more to add a second box, ASSUMING they will both be run off the same single switch.


IF you do NOT have a light fixture there now, then can run from $150-300 range if there is easy access from above (open attic) to $500 or more if has to tear into drywall to install wiring and box so you then have to get drywall contractor and painter in to repair the damages.

Electrician reviews in Bountiful


Good. Instead of replacing a ballist that would potentially go bad again in another 6 years (age of house), opted to replace with
Bountiful Electricians Provider Name Locked
lights that are brighter and will last way longer. Very happy!
- Diana M.

Great! He was on time and punctual. Friendly and pleasant. Fixed problem in no time. Very professional.I will recommend and use
Bountiful Electricians Provider Name Locked
- James A.

A total waste of my time. Very unprofessional. As of 10/11/15, he has one open complaint against him with the Arizona Registrar of Contractors. Just one more deadbeat contractor operating in the city of Tucson.
- Curt F.

Very professional. No surprises. Outstanding 3 man crew. Have used this company before and will definitely use them again. A good example how a business should be run and how the service people should take pride in their work. Very one with the company have been very responsive.
- Michael P.

Inspection went fine. It was recommended to replace all plugs and switches. I decided to have someone else do the job because the price was considerably lower, but the gentleman seemed very nice. If I had an electrical problem, I would consider hiring them in the future.
- Laurel N.

Bill Bloom was the service technician and he was super nice and knowledgeable. He had the problem fixed in under an hour and also did some other tweaking (that's a technical term) of circuits and an outlet. Of course, I wish the price was lower but I think it was worth it for work done on a Sunday. It sure is nice having power in the bathrooms again! If I need an electrician again, I hope I can pick Bill. He seemed very trustworthy.
- Laurel N.

Service was great. They were prompt, reliable, and were able to accomplish a lot of projects in a short period of time. We'd definitely recommend them and would use them in the future.
- Jonathan B.

This job went very well. It is a bit of a challenge because I work full time day light and my husband is home. Yet I am the one with the picture in my head of what I would like the end result to be. Price light was very patient with us. They came to look at the job when I was able to be home. They adjusted their estimate based on my e-mail feedback. During the job, they sent a text picture to make sure they were doing what I wanted!
- Fonda H.

Electricians in Bountiful, UT

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A + Mechanical LLC

3575 S West Temple
Salt Lake City


385 W 500 S

AAA Restoration Emergency

249 West 4860 S


P.O. Box 540175
North Salt Lake

ACP Electric

3643 Highlander St
Salt Lake City

ADO Maintenance and Construction LLC

1016 Industrial Park Rd.


6051 S 1900 W

Advanced Maintenance Inc

PO Box 1781

Affordable Heating & Cooling

155 Baird Ave
Salt Lake City

Alexander Technical Resources

1263 Glenwood Ave. SE

Alpenglow Solar

3100 West Pinebrook Road
Park City

Alpine Electronics

668 N Freedom Blvd

Arc Blue Electric Inc

PO Box 616

Armour Electric

P.O Box 1634


158 W 4640 S
Salt Lake City

Aspen Roofing

472 W 3440 S
Salt Lake City

Atlas Maintenance LLC

449 W 100 S

Audio Video Integrators

32 West 200 South
Salt Lake City



Basement Concepts

583 Sunset Stream Way

Basements & Beyond

4088 w 9470 s
South Jordan

Bautista's Plumbing & Electrical

Tuscaloosa Way
West Jordan

bestaff services LLC

680 north main lot e11

Big City Electric

640 North Main
North Salt Lake

Bleu Skye, LLC

1901 Ryan Park

Briarglen Construction

11659 Briar Glen Dr

Bright Signs LLC

P.O. Box 167

Bullett Electric, Inc.

14693 Heritagecrest Way


PO BOX 1766

Captain Electric

1300 East 2100 South
Salt Lake City

Captain Electric

3214 North University Ave.

Captain Electric

881 W State Rd
Pleasant Grove

Caris Handyman

1957 North 1350 West

Carver Sheet Metal Works Inc

1349 Jefferson St
Salt Lake City

Castlemenders LLC

12607 South 1300 East

Castor Electric

4248 W 3925 S

Certified Fire Inspections

3140 South 460 West

Chimera Construction LLC

2717 south 1000 east
Salt Lake City

CHW Electric

6915 North 1540 East

CHW Electric Inc

P.O. Box 565

Compass Electric

834 North 900 West.

Connect Building Services, Inc.

10717 S. 455 E.

Copley Corporation, Inc.

10668 S Vermeer Way

Core Communications

11761 Long Shadow Dr

Dan's Handyman Services

223 East Antelope Drive

Dave Passey Plumbing & Heating

9511 S 1930 W
South Jordan

Daystar Electric Corp

2464 Murray Holladay Rd
Salt Lake City

Design Iron Wood and Stone

1333 Riverside Ave

DesignTek Consulting Group

1600 West 2200 South #201
Salt Lake City

Dew Electrical Contracting

2662 Orchard Dr.

Diamond Electric Motor & Tool

1465 S 300 West
Salt Lake City

Diamond Electric Motor & Tool

1465 S 300 West
Salt Lake City

Diamond Service Electric

770 E Main St



Double D Electrical

1321 Earl Dr.
Salt Lake City

DTS Electric LLC

975 E. South Union Ave.

Earnshaw Electric Inc

4367 E Center Creek Rd
Heber City

Eclipse Lighting

1271 Presidential Dr
Woods Cross


478 e 3400s


245 W 300 S


107 so f street
Salt Lake City

ESCO Services Inc

2525 S 300 W
Salt Lake City

Evergreen LLC

3694 Crespi Ct F15

Falcon Electric LLC

150 West Gregson Avenue
South Salt Lake

Frandsen Technical Services LLC

642 South 500 East
Salt Lake City

Fuller Electric, LLC

114 E Shepard Ln


West Jordan



Harvard Handyman

907 Fairview Avenue
Salt Lake City


Salt Lake City


Salt Lake City

Home Tech Inc

333 W Hope Ave
Salt Lake City

HoneyDo Construction LLC

528 Ridge Place Dr


280 W 400 N

Hunt Electric

1863 West Alexander Street
Salt Lake City

Huntsman Electric & Horizontal Boring

9079 S 1150 W
West Jordan



Intermountain Wind and Solar LLC

1953 W 2425 S
Woods Cross

IXL Infrared Management

480 East 1700 North

Jayson's Mobile Automotive Service

5068 E Red River Dr
Eagle Mountain

JB Management

Park City

Johnston Construction LLC

1940 S 900 E
Salt Lake City

JP Electric LLC

890 N 550 W
North Salt Lake

Just Right Air

3066 S 300 W
Salt Lake City

KD Duncan Const.

1551 w riverdale

Kelly Electric

North Salt Lake

Kevin Hill & Son Handyman

667 W 7250 S

Kilowatt Electric

P.O. Box 1185

Kitchen Solvers of Salt Lake

560 North 350 West
American Fork

Kitmund Electric

3780 W 5850 S

Knight Electric Inc

1150 N Highway 89

Kore Investments LLC

PO Box 711336
Salt Lake City

L & J Plumbing & Mechanical

490 N. 300 W
Heber City

Landmark Home Warranty

PO Box 570

Laughing Gas Motorsports

185 East 26th st.

Leed Electric

279E 9585S


852 West 1560 North

Lighting and Electrical Service Specialist

286 West 2300 South

Live Wire Service

2440 E Evergreen Avenue
Salt Lake City

Marks Handyman of Utah

8543 s redwood rd

Master's Handyman

227 S 1065 W


4042 Buck Hollow Lane

MJ Seven Restoration, LLC

P.O. Box 576

Modessent Homes

West Haven

Monument Development Inc.

602 E 5640 S
Salt Lake City

Mount Ogden Construction

952 E. Chamber Street #8

Mount Ogden Property Management

952 E. Chamber Street #8


PO BOX 154

Mr. Electric

567 W 800 S

Odessa Construction

805 Skyline Dr

Olsen Electric Inc.

2214 Comstock Drive
Park City

Orange Electric

West Jordan

Osmond Electric

West Jordan

P Calvo Electric, Inc.

4424 W 950 N

Paul Davis Restoration

7065 Commerce Park Dr

Peak Home Improvement

533 26th st

Pibi Tile Inc

3596 S 300 W
Salt Lake City

Pickering Electric

612 N 1400 E

Pond's Plumbing Heating & Air Conditioning

189 N US Hwy 89
North Salt Lake

Potable Divers Inc.

2188 East Cassidy Way
Eagle Mountain

Power Evolution

4525 S Wasatch Blvd, Ste 330
Salt Lake City

PowerHouse Electric, Inc.

930 North 1610 West Suite B

Pro Budget Handyman

1780 W. Sugar Factory Rd.
West Jordan

Prosperity Contracting

Salt Lake City

Quality Pool & Spa, Inc.

3330 S 300 W
Salt Lake City

R. Scott Willey Electric

3625 North 2825 East

Red Butte Construction LLC

1837 S 600 E
Salt Lake City

Reed's Built-Ins

795 Columbia Ln

RELCo Electric Company LLC

1212 Athleen Dr
West Jordon

Rich Deianni Remodeling & Repair

1269 Alice Ln

Rizley Services

4836 W 3450 S

RLR Construction, LLC

3207 pingree ave.

RMS Electric

606 Marshall Way #103

Rob's Machinery Repair & Electrical Service

4139 Shoshone Lake Dr
West Jordan


Salt Lake City

Robert W Speirs Plumbing Inc

412 Market St

Rocky Mountain ATV and MC

1551 American Way

Rocky Mountain Audio Video, LLC

806 W Moss Springs Cv
South Jordan

Rubble Wreckers & Renovations

930 East 300 South
Salt Lake City

Sabin Electric

455 N University Ave #201

Salmon & Sons Construction LLC

641 S 700 E

Salmon Electrical Contractors

1778 West 1180 South
Woods Cross


P O BOX 683324
Park City

Schmidt SLC / Kurt Schmidt

7730 South Union Park Av

Shawn Meyer

440 East 8680 South


1264 W 50 S



Spectrum Home Services

PO Box 716



Superior Quality Handyman Services

308 Williams Ln.

Synergy Power

531 River Meadow Dr


733 North King Street

Ted Konold Construction

10164 S Phlox St

Thain Electric

646 W. Sunset Crest Way

The Best HandyMEN Services

1147 S 800 E


3972 W 4550 S


45 S 1100 E
Salt Lake City

Utah electric LLC

10192 South 2165 East

UTR, Urban Tree Releaf Inc

527 east 300 north
American Fork

Vantage Tech Service

262 Julie Anna Dr.

Von Construction

1256 Darby Cir
Salt Lake City

Warburton Electric

842 W 2100 N
Pleasant Grove


12637 S 265 W Suite 100

Wasatch Electric

2455 W 1500 S
Salt Lake City

What a Cable

538 South State Street

Wright Way Electric

294 Maple Dr
N Salt Lake

Yellow Van Handyman

PO Box 1314
Salt Lake City

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