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Over 9,227 reviews for
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A
"The power in half of my house kept going out for short periods of time, many times every day. Over the course of several weeks, ComEd had been out to my house four" times, but could never find an issue with the outside power lines. Finally, ComEd told me that I needed to have a licensed electrician come to my house and check the wiring inside. This is when I called
. He was very concerned about the issue I described, especially because the furnace was affected by the power outages and the power never stayed on long enough to warm up the house! He ran some tests and confirmed it was in fact ComEd's issue. He stood by while I called ComEd and made sure they would come back again, In the mean time, he moved the breaker for the furnace to the "working" side of the electrical box. It took ComEd seven days to come back and replace my power line. After ComEd did their work,
returned to move the breaker back to its correct position. He also added two breakers to the electrical box while he was here. This guy was punctual, professional, knowledgable, and just awesome!!! I would recommend him to everyone!!

-Sandra K.

B
"The only reason I gave a B instead of an A is because there was a miscommunication between the company and the employee who came out to install the attic fan. I" bought the deal where they provide all materials including the fan, but the employee thought I had a fan when he arrived so he had to go buy one which made the process take a little longer. There was also a discrepancy initially on payment that I corrected. Again a miscommunication between the company and him. But truly overall great work, would recommend

-Adam S.

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Local Articles in Bountiful

snowy house

The Angie's List Guide to Winter Maintenance

It's the time of year when the winter weather can take a toll. Follow this winter maintenance checklist to protect your home, your car and your health.

Ryan Electric owner Pat Ryan says he always makes sure clients inspect his work and are satisfied before he leaves a job. (Photo courtesy of Brody Ryan)

Hiring an Electrician

Since the days of Thomas Edison, the practical applications of electricity have become exponentially more complex. Becoming an electrician requires extensive training and continuing education to keep up with technology that changes constantly. Read this Homeowner's Guide to Hiring an Electrician to learn more before you hire.

electrical wiring
Electrical

Electrical work requires trade knowledge and following code regulations in most states

outdoor lighting electricity
Lighting, Electrical

If you're experiencing electrical problems in your home or want to add capacity for new projects, consider hiring an electrician for these four services.

An outside outlet needs to be weather protected and include a ground fault circuit interrupter. (Photo by Gretchen Becker)
Electrical

What does it take to install an outdoor outlet, and how much does it cost? Highly rated electricians say it’s not as difficult or costly as you might think.

One LED can last up to 50,000 hours, the equivalent of 42 60-watt incandescent bulbs. (Photo by Hugh Vandivier)
Lighting, Electrical

LED lights are quickly becoming popular choices for interior home lighting, but can they really compete with incandescent bulbs? Are there any downsides to using light-emitting diodes?

Angie's Answers

?
Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.
?

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

?

Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.

?

An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.

 

A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.

 

Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.

?

If you already have a fixture there, around $100 plus or minus about $30 if not over 7 or 30 pounds, or about $200-300 if weighs over about 7 or 30 pounds. The 7 or 30 pound ranges are dependent on whether the existing box is plastic or a standard Square-D type or equivalent metal one, because each type of box can only hold so much weight. If existing box is rated 70 pounds or more (ceiling fan or large chandelier rated) then the $100 range should do it regardless.

 

I am assuming when you say mini-pendants you meant from a single box if more than one. If you meant two separate by some feet, add probably about $100 more to add a second box, ASSUMING they will both be run off the same single switch.

 

IF you do NOT have a light fixture there now, then can run from $150-300 range if there is easy access from above (open attic) to $500 or more if has to tear into drywall to install wiring and box so you then have to get drywall contractor and painter in to repair the damages.

?

Electrical reviews in Bountiful

A

Rating
I was more than pleased with
Bountiful Electricians Provider Name Locked
's willingness to share his knowledge rather than charge me an incredible fee, for what he predicted, correctly, would be resetting a GFCI (which involves pushing a button on the GFCI).
I solved the problem by myself, but only because of his telephone suggestions. He was a pleasure to work with, and when I have my next problem that I can't solve, even with his help, he's the guy I'm calling.
- Henry N.
A

Rating
Bountiful Electricians Provider Name Locked
was a real pleasure to work with . Super professional, very easy to talk to ... Finished job in a timely manor ..
We will definately be calling him back for future projects...
- sandie W.
A

Rating
Prompt response, even over a holiday week. Was easy to work with, friendly and communicated everything along the way. Would definitely use again and refer to others
- sally K.
A

Rating
When I called,
Bountiful Electricians Provider Name Locked
gave me several things to try. He came to my house within an hour. He worked fast and confidently. Also looked at several other electrical things in the house I had questions about. He answered all my questions, did his work and was on his way.
- Dewey W.
B

Rating
Got a quote from them a week or so before the service was provided. They were to remove the propane tank from underground and the lines. The quote was reasonable.
They had to move the date of service a few times but their staff was very courteous and helpful throughout. They were able to do a good job of removing and I have no problems.
I will most likely hire them again in the near future for some related work.
- Daniel R.
A

Rating
Bountiful Electricians Provider Name Locked
and
Bountiful Electricians Provider Name Locked
were great to work with - pleasant and professional throughout the process.
Bountiful Electricians Provider Name Locked
actually installed the light fixtures and he arrived exactly on schedule, worked rapidly and was pleasant to have in our home....I'm sure I'll be using their services again in the future!


- Susan L.
A

Rating
I was very pleased with the service and only wish I had known about
Bountiful Electricians Provider Name Locked
previously. The electrician,
Bountiful Electricians Provider Name Locked
, was very thorough and did a great job and cleaned up afterwards. I would definitely use them again.
- Moira M.
A

Rating
He stopped by one day to check the generator outside, it was ok. He called me and we set a time to met the next day to check switches installed indoors. He got the unit to work from the inside. He double checked it then left.
- Henry B.

All Electricians in Bountiful, UT

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A + Mechanical LLC

3575 S West Temple
Salt Lake City

A+ Handyman West Valley

3731 S 4400 W
West Valley

A-2-Z VACUUM CO

385 W 500 S
Bountiful

AAA Restoration Emergency

249 West 4860 S
Murray

ACP Electric

3643 Highlander St
Salt Lake City

ADAMS ELECTRIC INC

4118 N Wolf Ridge Cir
Eden

ADO Maintenance and Construction LLC

1016 Industrial Park Rd.
Orem

ADVANCE ELECTRIC LLC

6051 S 1900 W
Roy

AES Electric

7158 S Tico Dr
West Jordan

Affordable Heating & Cooling

155 Baird Ave
Salt Lake City

Alexander Technical Resources

1263 Glenwood Ave SE

Alpenglow Solar

3100 West Pinebrook Road
Park City

Alpine Electronics

2048 N Canyon Rd
Provo

American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd

American Maintenance Pros

391 E Main St
Hyrum

Any and All Electric

8741 Harrison St
Sandy

Arc Blue Electric Inc

PO Box 616
Ogden

Armour Electric

P.O Box 1634

ASPEN COUNTERTOPS

158 W 4640 S
Salt Lake City

Aspen Roofing

472 W 3440 S
Salt Lake City

ATOM ELECTRIC INC

PO Box 17897
Salt Lake City

Audio Video Integrators

32 West 200 South
Salt Lake City

B & L Electric

5663 S 675 E
Salt Lake City

BARKER ELECTRIC

639 CREEKVIEW DR
Centerville

Basement Concepts

583 Sunset Stream Way
Draper

Basements & Beyond

4088 w 9470 s
South Jordan

Bate's Electrical Services

5319 S Jordan Canal Rd
Salt Lake City

Big City Electric

640 North Main
North Salt Lake

Black Diamond Electric

3080 S 300 W
South Salt Lake

Bluebird Renovations

2560 Elm Ave
Salt Lake City

Bonfire Building Corp

338 E Cherrycrest Dr
Draper

Briarglen Construction

11659 Briar Glen Dr
Sandy

Bullett Electric, Inc.

14693 Heritagecrest Way
Riverton

C P ELECTRIC LLC

PO BOX 1766
Sandy

Captain Electric

1300 East 2100 South
Salt Lake City

Captain Electric

3214 North University Ave.
Provo

Captain Electric

881 W State Rd
Pleasant Grove

Carver Sheet Metal Works Inc

1349 Jefferson St
Salt Lake City

Castor Electric

4248 W 3925 S

Central Electric Co

564 Evesham Dr
Salt Lake City

Certified Fire Inspections

3140 South 460 West

Chimera Construction LLC

2717 south 1000 east
Salt Lake City

CHW Electric

6915 North 1540 East
Lehi

CHW Electric Inc

P.O. Box 565
Lehi

Compass Electric

834 North 900 West.
Bountiful

Copley Corporation, Inc.

10668 S Vermeer Way
Sandy

Core Communications

11761 Long Shadow Dr
Draper

Dan's Handyman Services

223 East Antelope Drive
Layton

Dave Passey Plumbing & Heating

9511 S 1930 W
South Jordan

Daystar Electric Corp

2464 Murray Holladay Rd
Salt Lake City

Dew Electrical Contracting

2662 Orchard Dr.
Bountiful

Diamond Electric Motor & Tool

1465 S 300 West
Salt Lake City

Diamond Service Electric

770 E Main St
Lehi

DirectBuy of Indianapolis

8450 Westfield Blvd

DON'S VACUUM VILLA

3151 WASHINGTON BLVD
Ogden

Double D Electrical

1321 Earl Dr.
Salt Lake City

DTS Electric LLC

975 E. South Union Ave.
Midvale

Earnshaw Electric Inc

4367 E Center Creek Rd
Heber City

Eclipse Lighting

1271 Presidential Dr
Woods Cross

Edna

478 e 3400s

ELECTRIC NU-TREND

245 W 300 S
Bountiful

ELECTRICAL & PLUMBING SVC.

107 so f street
Salt Lake City

ESCO Services Inc

2525 S 300 W
Salt Lake City

Evergreen LLC

3694 Crespi Ct F15

Exquisite Designs

47332 Sterdley Falls

Frandsen Technical Services LLC

642 South 500 East
Salt Lake City

Fuller Electric, LLC

114 E Shepard Ln
Kaysville

GALLEGOS ELECTRIC CO INC

8969 S MOUNTAIN VISTA CIR
West Jordan

GLB ELECTRICAL CONSTRUCTORS

506 S MAIN ST
Bountiful

Griffith Electric

3259 Saint Andrews dr.
Syracuse

Harvard Handyman

907 Fairview Avenue
Salt Lake City

HENRIE'S ELECTRIC

5124 JORDAN CANAL RD
Salt Lake City

HERITAGE ELECTRIC

3449 S W TEMPLE
Salt Lake City

Hogan Electric Inc

4035 S Main
Murray

Home Tech Inc

333 W Hope Ave
Salt Lake City

HoneyDo

528 Ridge Pl Ln
Ogden

HORIZON ELECTRIC INC

280 W 400 N
Bountiful

I-D Electric Inc

3690 S 500 West
Salt Lake City

IN-TECH ELECTRIC INC

3424 MEDFORD DR
Bountiful

Intermountain Wind and Solar LLC

1953 W 2425 S
Woods Cross

IXL Infrared Management

480 East 1700 North
Mapleton

JP Electric LLC

890 N 550 W
North Salt Lake

Just Right Air

3066 S 300 W
Salt Lake City

JW Home Improvement

1390 Chain Bridge Rd

KENAI ELECTRIC INC

PO BOX 2614
Salt Lake City

Kitmund Electric

3780 W 5850 S
Roy

Kore Investments LLC

PO Box 711336
Salt Lake City

Lakeside Electric

1872 Ann St
Layton

Landmark Home Warranty

10701 South River Front Parkway
South Jordan

Leed Electric

279E 9585S
Sandy

Live Wire Electric Inc

2371 S 2975 W
Ogden

Live Wire Service

2440 E Evergreen Avenue
Salt Lake City

Master Electrical Service Inc

2147 Rulon White Blvd
Ogden

Master's Handyman

227 S 1065 W
Orem

MILLCREEK ELECTRIC CO

4042 Buck Hollow Lane
Bluffdale

Mister Sparky

745 West 500 North
Provo

Monster Electric Inc

1940 Deodora St.

Monument Development Inc.

602 E 5640 S
Salt Lake City

Mount Ogden Construction

952 E. Chamber Street #8
Ogden

Mount Ogden Property Management

952 E. Chamber Street #8
Ogden

MR. ELECTRIC

PO BOX 154
Tremonton

NORTHERN ELECTRIC COMPANY

3414 S 300 W
Salt Lake City

Odessa Construction

1233 E Cedar Ridge Rd
Sandy

Osmond Electric

West Jordan

P Calvo Electric, Inc.

4424 W 950 N
Ogden

Paul Davis Restoration

7065 Commerce Park Dr
Midvale

Peak Home Improvement

533 26th st
Ogden

Pickering Electric

612 N 1400 E
Mapleton

PowerHouse Electric, Inc.

930 North 1610 West Suite B
Orem

Pro Budget Handyman

1780 W. Sugar Factory Rd.
West Jordan

Progressive Power Solutions

1182 N 1565 W
Orem

Quality Pool & Spa, Inc.

3330 S 300 W
Salt Lake City

R. Scott Willey Electric

3625 North 2825 East
Layton

Red Butte Construction LLC

1837 S 600 E
Salt Lake City

Red Peak Electric Inc

9526 Chavez Dr
South Jordan

Reed's Built-Ins

795 Columbia Ln
Provo

Research Industries Inc

620 W. Colorado Ave.

Restoration Handyman

Salt Lake City

Retrospect Building & Design

10348 S Millerton Dr
South Jordan

RICH DEIANNI REMODELING & REPAIR

1269 ALICE LN.
Farmington

Rizley Services

4836 W 3450 S
Ogden

RLR Construction, LLC

3207 pingree ave.
Ogden

RMS Electric

606 Marshall Way #103
Layton

Rob's Machinery Repair & Electrical Service

4139 Shoshone Lake Dr
West Jordan

ROBERT DIBBLE ELECTRIC

6178 S STRATLER ST
Salt Lake City

Robert W Speirs Plumbing Inc

412 Market St
Kaysville

Rockwood Remodel LLC

1863 Hollywood Ave
Salt Lake City

Rocky Mountain ATV and MC

1551 American Way
Payson

Rocky Mountain Audio Video, LLC

806 W Moss Springs Cv
South Jordan

Rocky Mountain Electric

8685 W. State St.

Salmon & Sons Construction LLC

641 S 700 E
Centerville

Salmon Electrical Contractors

1778 West 1180 South
Woods Cross

SALT VALLEY METAL FRAMING & DRYWALL

P O BOX 683324
Park City

Schmidt SLC / Kurt Schmidt

7730 South Union Park Av
Midvale

Scott Pryor Handyman Services

4172 West Zodiac Dr.
Kearns

Shawn Meyer

440 East 8680 South
Sandy

SHUPE ELECTRIC INC

1264 W 50 S
Centerville

SPECIALIZED SENSORS & CONTROLS

1571 N EASTHILLS DR
Bountiful

Spectrum Home Services

PO Box 716
Centerville

STANCO ELECTRIC

15134 MOUNTAINSIDE RD
Riverton

Stanger Electric LLC

1661 E 7325 S
South Weber

Starlite Maintenance Services

1473 S 1100 E
Salt Lake City

Sunlight Solar Systems

3959 S. West Temple
Salt Lake City

T-TEK SERVICE

733 North King Street
Layton

Ted Konold Construction

10164 S Phlox St
Sandy

Thain Electric

646 W. Sunset Crest Way
Draper

The Best HandyMEN Services

1147 S 800 E
Bountiful

THE ELECTRIC GUY

3972 W 4550 S
Ogden

TIMCO HYDRONICS INC

45 S 1100 E
Salt Lake City

Topp Construction Inc

524 E 6295 South
Murray

Utah electric LLC

10192 South 2165 East
Sandy

UTR, Urban Tree Releaf Inc

527 east 300 north
American Fork

Vantage Tech Service

262 Julie Anna Dr.
Sandy

Von Construction

1256 Darby Cir
Salt Lake City

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100
Draper

WEBB ELECTRICAL CO

PO Box 70866

What a Cable

538 South State Street
Orem

Wimmer Electric and Lighting Co Inc

5330 S. Riley Ln
Salt Lake City

Yellow VAN Handyman

P.O. Box 1314
Salt Lake City

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