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A
"
measured and inspected the foundation of my house, which I suspected needed foundation repair. He thoroughly explained what was affecting" my foundation (trees) and how to fix it, and concluded that my foundation did not need repairs. After his inspection and explanation I have a great deal of understanding of the current condition of my slab and how it will continue to be affected by several trees, as well as specific options to fix it.

-Ryan R.

A
"He was very good. He kept to the business part of it which I like. After he left, he emailed us his findings that night. His findings indicated the history of our" foundation, observations, and he had a discussion on what needed to be done, and listed recommendations on what needed to be done. He made a hand drawing of the inside and outside of the house. He forwarded it to me. I would recommend him to others.

-Larry H.

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Local Articles in Princeton

structural engineer

Have a foundation crack? Consult a structural engineer

Are you worried about a crack in your home's foundation. A structural engineer can examine the crack and determine if your house is safe or hazardous to live in.

Your home needs a strong foundation to keep those inside safe. Structural engineers can help. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Randy S.)

Structural Engineers

Your home's ability to withstand the forces of nature and gravity depend on good structural engineering. Building room additions, correcting foundations and repairing structural damage are all projects that call for a structural engineer's expertise.

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Contractors say homeowners with this trait are the most satisfied with home improvement projects.

earthquake retrofit
Remodeling - General, Structural Engineering

Earthquakes can strike out of nowhere and cause major damage to your home. Consider these tips to protect your home from earthquake damage.

bowed interior block foundation wall
Structural Engineering

Does your home have horizontal cracks in its concrete block foundation? Check out these common causes and repairs for horizontal foundation cracks from a highly rated structural engineer.

If you come home to a wet basement or crawl space, make sure you get credible advice before agreeing to pay for any repairs. (Photo courtesy of Angie’s List member Michelle B. of Indianapolis)
Structural Engineering

A highly rated structural engineer explains why it may be best to hire an engineer and draft a plan before hiring to repair a wet basement or crawl space.

Angie's Answers

?

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

?

There is NO such thing as an average cost !

 

You are going to be required to have a building permit and the Building Comissioner

or Senior Permit Official of your local permit office will issue a determination as to whether you will be required to have a Steel Bearing Beam , a Laminated Bearing Beam or some other Beam to support weight of the structure you want to ammend . You  may also be required to install Bearing support posts footings,  at either end of the beam as well. Much will depend as to what is over  and under the space that you wish to span .The official may require you to retain an Architectual Engineer to perform a Load study and computations and require you to  comply with his recomendations .

 

 Until you know what is required by the Permitting Office , Then and only then will you be able to determine the true costs .

 

The fact that you have existing baseboard heat , and we know NOT if it is electric or radiant baseboard heat will complicate the issue as well the existing electrical outlets which may need to be sunken into the floor in order to maintain the electrical circuitry as it exists.

 

 Past experience in these matters , indicate possible costs to range from  $4000.00 to  as much as  $8k -$10,000.00 . I realise that these cost ranges are probably NOT what you want or expect , but There are too many unknowns to attempt a closer cost expectation or range of expenses !

?

Architect first - for around $1000 typically you will get site consultation, a few sketches showing what you said you wanted, and a preliminary (by the book) cost estimate - that you can use to figure if your budget or scope of work needs major adjustment. Then, if you go ahead, typically about 10-20% of total project cost for complete plans and specs (including above cost), depending on complexity and level of interior design detail, and if construction inspection services are included.

 


 
 
Generally, nothing is free with an architect - unlike a contractor where a bit of consultation and a rough estimate is a lead-in to the actual work he hopes to get (the construction/repair) and part of his bidding cost, an architect (and engineer) makes his living giving advice and consultation and developing designs and cost estimates - so giving it away for free is sort of like a dentist doing sample fillings for free. Some will come to your house to discuss your concepts for 15-20 minutes for free, basically to see if they want to take you on as a client or feel your job is the type or size they want, but you should expect little or nothing in the way of a design or cost estimate for free - the most you might get would be an opinion on whether it sounds, off the cuff, like your budget is roughly in line with your desired scope of the project.
 
 
On more complex or up-scale remodels, it is not unusual to contact several architecture firms and request proposals - where they basically come see the site, then give you a sketch or few or more common today, computer-generated altered photos of your place, showing conceptually what they can do for you, then you choose the one you like the most and go with that one for final design. Typically $500-1000 range fee (each) to get that done for small jobs, larger jobs will typically be no charge but that assumes probably $25-50,000 plus anticipated fees if they get the job.
 
 
Bear in mind in the latter scenario you cannot pick and choose betweenthe best parts of each proposal - the architect owns the design and it is copyrighted, so while you can choose bui9lding elements (dormers, bay windows, etc) from any of the proposals, specific design or color combinations are copyrighted by the proposer.
The Search the List category is Architects and Building Design.
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The key is to have drainage away from the house, and not introduce water to the foundation unnecessarily. If you can slope the existing backfill soil from the foundation away from the house at least 1/2 inch to 1 inch in the 2 foot space to the walk and pack it down, then putting a ground cover on it will not hurt - it is the relatively impervious layer sloping away from the house you want. If you use rocks I would underlay them with some 6 mil or thicker black plastic sheeting (available in small rolls at home supply stores and lumber yards). If planting, the same would be nice if the plants you choose spread laterally like Epimedium, so they will grow in just a fewe inches of topsoil over the plastic. Otherwise, tamp down the dirt to make it a hard, draining surface (at least when it rains heavily) before topsoiling and planting. Keep a slope on the topsoil too, and avoid overwatering. Do not plant anythig with highly invasive, tenacious or deep burrowing roots like bushes, ivy, or trees near the house, as the roots will penetrate the waterproof barrier on the outside of the foundation, and then you might start getting leaks. The roots can even penetrate the concrete block joints and start breaking up the foundation. For this reason, annual flowers, shallow-root ground covers, bulb plants and rock gardens are far better within 3 feet or so of the foundation than larger plants or intensive gardening.
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Structural Engineering reviews in Princeton

A

Rating
We have a 60's-era split level on a hill. A small crack developed in our garage wall running from the corner of a window to the floor. This winter, we noticed some water leaking onto the floor after a heavy rainstorm. I never had to deal with a problem like this before, so like anyone, I turned to Google. The best advice I found recommended having a structural engineer check the problem before getting a repair estimate.
One of our neighbors recommended Summit and
Princeton Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
, one of their principals, was able to come out the next day. She took nearly a half hour to do a very thorough study, taking measurements and photos inside and out. She came back with a comprehensive, detailed written report in less than a week.
As it turned out, this crack was structurally a minor issue and something we can probably seal ourselves when the ground dries out this summer. However, she pointed out some drainage issues that are bringing a flow of water uncomfortably close to our foundation. She recommended that we get these remedied fairly soon.
Princeton Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
was responsive, extremely professional and a clear and concise communicator. She is very familiar with the area and the kind of issues that are often seen here. I should say that this represents a fairly small job for Summit. Their resume includes very large residential and commercial structures.
- RIC G.
A

Rating


Princeton Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
was very professional and made us feel comfortable working with him as he went thru our house to inspect the foundation problems.

Princeton Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
answered all of our questions and concerns. I would recommend him for any foundation concerns. As a past Safety Engineer, I could tell that
Princeton Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
was during a thorough assessment of our house.

I am so glad that we went with
Princeton Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
and his company. The one thing that stood out for me, is that
Princeton Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
stated if this was my house, here what I would do. This is the type of person I want for guidance, someone that cares and treats my house as if it was his.




- Harry S.
A

Rating
Princeton Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
responded promptly to my phone call and took time out in his very busy schedule to inspect the sagging floor on our second floor row home. He provided a rough estimate for the structural work and a bathroom remodel.
Princeton Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
was very professional, extremely informative and projected the type of work ethic I was beginning to think didn't exist. I am certain
Princeton Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
would provide A+++ services. I would definitely use this provider.
- Jacqueline J.
A

Rating
He was very thorough, professional and kind. His price was excellent and he provided his services at a competitive price.
- Clara C.
A

Rating
Mr.
Princeton Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
was very professional, He thoroughly inspected the area and he is very good with his line of profession. will definitely recommend his services.
- Ghia B.
A

Rating
After having a number of contractors run from this task, we went back to the drawing board and perused Angie's List for a structural engineer;
Princeton Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
was at the top of the list.
Princeton Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
was very responsive from the start, and we were able to bring him out to Edgewater (from Baltimore) within a few days of first calling him. He inspected what he could at that time and, after the floors were opened up and all the problems exposed to the light of day, came out a second time for a more thorough review. Shortly after, he produced a series of plans that positively sailed through permitting without any problem and that our ultimate contractors could execute within our budget. For no additional charge, he provided advice to the on-site team when they ran into unforeseen difficulties during the job.
Princeton Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
's professionalism, engineering prowess, and his propensity to ask what he would do if it were his house played a major role in keeping our house standing for many years to come.
- Rachel W.
D

Rating
I contacted
Princeton Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
via his website in late November for an estimate of services, after he came highly recommended via a "google
Princeton Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
". When I did not hear back, I took a look at the reviews on Angie's List and was pleasantly surprised to see how well he had been rated. I chalked up my initial attempt at contact as a user error (in other words, I blamed myself). I figured it was worth another attempt, and elected to contact him via telephone. I left a detailed message regarding the issues at our home, in early December, and requested a response with an estimate of services. It is almost the middle of January and we have yet to hear from
Princeton Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
. I am sincerely disappointed. We have great concerns about our home, and looked forward to his "expert and professional" advice.

- Jen M.
F

Rating
After no response I terminated contract due to breach of the terms. Work from 1st phase not finished, then abandoned the job. Misrepresented himself as licensed contractor - when in fact was working with expired license and no insurance. Note: this was confirmed by phone call to DCCA but web site still says he is still licensed. He cancelled his insurance after starting work. Did not know you have to check this status daily, (which seems wrong).
Despite affidavits from employees that he verbalized I was "paid up through framing", repeatedly demanded more money. This should have included structure and closing in of the last section. Instead, I had to pay out of pocket for this, the roof, and general labor and materials. On top of that, I have a quote of at least $4000 for removal of debris and materials, including weights and a huge "Everlast" exercise machine he dumped on my property. Figure does not include post-construction cleaning, and repair
of grounds. I paid workers direct for all "moving costs/labor" but he claimed this as an unpaid cost item to be paid to him.
Original flooring and gutters were to be retained for re-use, but have disappeared along with most parts of the alarm system. These will all need replacing, and I do not yet have quotes on these.
Of items that were put in, I have no paper work for any warranty coverage and proof these were in fact purchased by contractor. Street side windows are not correct. They were to be all awning windows, but only the tops are awnings, and are very tiny, so if open do nothing to keep rain out. This was the whole purpose of choosing that style. These were received and installed while I was out of town and will be another very large cost I will incur to rectify his screw up.
He has accused multiple people and companies of telling
Princeton Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
about him. Not sure why everyone in the state of Hawaii would be lying, while he is the only one telling the truth. Also, he bragged of working with the military.
It is my understanding that many of his subs and crew were not paid. Apparently this and ripping clients off, is a pattern.
One client he burned tracked him down to Colorado where I believe he was served w/ papers..

- Linda B.

All Structural Engineers in Princeton, TX

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A Plus Gutters & Painting

3013 Glasgow
Sherman

Accede Inc

2002 S Stemmons Fwy
Lake Dallas

Ace Pier & Beam Repair

2535 W Jefferson Blvd
Dallas

Adams Structural Inc

4505 Michelle Dr
Arlington

AK Utilities

310 Morton St
Richmond

Altek Engineering

4700 Butterfield Rd
Arlington

Always Dependable Home Remodeling

1008 knight circle
Hurst

American Structural Inspection

17630 Davenport Rd
Dallas

Bayou Builders Construction, L.L.C.

1223 Farnham Court East
Irving

CENTURY21 MIKE BOWMAN, INC.

4101 WILLIAM D TATE AVE
Grapevine

Cima General Contractors Inc

1017 Long Prairie Rd Ste 203
Flower Mound

CONLEY ENGINEERING INC

1301 S CAPITAL OF TX HWY 230A
Austin

Coombs Engineering

1710 Stonecrest Trail
Wylie

Crockett Construction

523 Willow Rd
Irving

Custom Dreams Remodeling

1000 Crestview Dr
Sherman

D & E STRUCTURES

100 N CENTRAL EXPY
Dallas

Delong Services, Inc.

13232 Elmspring Rd
Dallas

Drew-Tronics Media Systems

1404 N. Corinth St.
Corinth

EB Broussard Remodeling

4449 Blystone Ln
Plano

Evergreen Structures LLC

7324 Gaston Avenue
Dallas

Express Foundation Inspection

2201 Vicksburg Dr
Sachse

Foundation Doctor Inc

PO Box 292155
Lewisville

Geo Dynamics

PO Box 246
Van Alstyne

Greenway Renovations and Custom Homes

6333 E Mockingbird Lane
Dallas

H2O Poolz

Allen

Hart Construction

314 N Pecan St
Arlington

HCI General Contractors

2912 Edith Lane
Haltom City

Historic Builders

PO Box 2236
Fredericksburg

HOOPER GROUP CONSULTANTS, LTD.

5729 PALO PINTO AVE
Dallas

INTEGRATED FOUNDATION SOLUTIONS

2749 S GREAT SW PKWY
Grand Prairie

Integrity Foundation Repair

5047 David Strickland Rd
Fort Worth

Isbon Engineering & Associates

PO Box 13184
Arlington

James DeOtte Engineering, Inc.

6707 Brentwood Stair Rd Ste 200
Fort Worth

JM&G Construction Company

1700 Pacific Avenue STE. 1220
Dallas

JONATHAN A COOPER, ENGINEER

PO Box 830834
Richardson

Jonesco Construction

4287 Belt Line Rd
Addison

Kenneth R Scott

3801 14th Street
Plano

Lee Engineering Co

603 Corry A Edwards Dr
Kennedale

LIGHTHOUSE ENGINEERING LLC

323 Shorewood Court
Coppell

Lone Star Welding Co.

1629 Lyon St
Lancaster

Mighty Construction

5348 Lynda ct
North Richland Hills

Nortex Testing LLC

1524 El Campo Dr
Dallas

PEELER ENGINEERING

9026 LEASIDE DRIVE
Dallas

PINNACLE FACILITY ENGINEERING

3940 STOCKTON LN
Dallas

RCP Engineering, Inc.

1705 Wentworth Pl
Plano

RCS ENTERPRISES LP

400 N ALLEN DR
Allen

Richardson Construction

2706 State Highway 361 Apt 304
Ingleside

RSH Engineering Inc.

1515 N Town E Blvd
Mesquite

RTG Holdings LLC

2501 Oak Lawn Ave STE 800
Dallas

S & W FOUNDATION

2806 Singleton St
Rowlett

Saz Infrstructure

2710 National Circle
Garland

STABILITY ENGINEERING

431 W PONCE DE LEON AVE

Structured Foundation Repairs Inc

13301 Trinity Blvd., #133
Euless

Superman Contractors

512 N. Hampton #127
Desoto

Texas Building Pros

6125 Airport Freeway
Haltom City

The Foundation Co

10596 High Hollows Dr
Dallas

Wave Engineering, Inc.

1515 N Town E Blvd
Mesquite

WHITWORTH ENGINEERING

4200 N MAIN ST
Fort Worth

Williams Renovation & Building Company LLC

2822 Lost Creek Court
Rockwall

Zala Engineering

5760 Legacy Dr
Plano

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Princeton Zip Codes

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