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Over 445 reviews for
Marshall Drain Pipe Contractors from people just like you.

A
"Provider completed the project within the time frame agreed to and on budget.
was very professional, quick to respond to our initial inquiry" and addressed our concerns as the project progressed. The workers were polite and arrived each day at the agreed to time.

-Jeffrey C.

A
"We had a problem with tree roots partially blocking the sewer in an old house. The sewer was beneath a steep stair to the back door of the house. To remove the" stair would have meant replacing it to code, which would have had it overlapping the garage door by about two feet. Other contractors would have removed the stair, but
said that with his technique he could clean out the roots and repair the sewer without damage to the stair. All that had to be opened up was the landing outside the back door. His guys came promptly and did the job as planned. They cleaned everything up afterwards and left a tidy cement top step. We were pleased with the job and with
's thoughtful approach.

-E Gay N.

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Angie's Answers

?

First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.

 

Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.

?

From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

?
It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!
?

Well , you've certainly started a debate that will endure forever , but personally , having worked with both products , PEX is a better product . Now granted , the 1st time i used it

I was not impressed , cause it leaked.......NOT because the product was at fault, it was because I did not understand how to use the product !

The trick to using Pex , is to make certain that the fittings seat, they MUST be pushed together with force, and if you do not push with force to get the seat to seal, it leaks .

Therefore , when using PEX , you have constantly to be aware of leaving room to make your connections -Properly !

The beauty of PEX is that it bends , it is flexible and decreases the labor factor ,although the connection costs are often 100-300 % higher than copper , but again , it can cut labor costs in half  and it is safer to work with,  NO FLAMEs!

?
FYI: CPVC and PEX are two different materials and installed differently.  PEX is not intended to be glued but instead has special crimp fittings.  PEX is a brand name of one product that is manufactured slightly differently by others as well so it is important that the same brand fittings are used to match the pipe material.

Mobile homes used CPVC for years and some still do.  It works fine but is not as strong as a properly soldered copper pipe system.  Is the contractor installing this new plumbing a licensed plumber?  I'd be surprised if he is since he's using CPVC and not PEX (or similar) or copper.  PEX pipe is even cheaper than CPVC when run by a knowledgable plumber.  It doesn't require nearly as many joints since it comes in rolls and can flex through spaces easily.

There are some groups raising a fuss about BPA and other chemicals found in plastics that don't like the use of CPVC, PVC, or PEX pipe.  I haven't seen the results of any lab tests to confirm or dispute their concerns.  As far as durability goes it's fairly safe as long as it's properly installed and secured.  It is not as susceptible to hard water damage as copper.  It absolutely must be insulated along it's entire length to protect it from contact to other materials as well as freezing.  Also, the fixtures in the house need to be grounded electrically since the pipe itself provides no electrical protection against accidental shock or electrocution.  In a copper plumbed house the system is grounded so static electricity, a short in a wire near a water line, or lightning strike will carry the current out through the pipe instead of through the water to you, ideally.

If it's installed correctly you should be fine but make sure the contractor knows what he is doing and follows the proper procedures to use CPVC pipe.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
www.thomeservices.com
?
It is usually cheaper to remove part of the ceiling below and patch it after the leak has been repaired.  Remember that water can travel before settling in one area, causing the spot you've seen.  Just because it is below the toilet does not mean that the toilet is the problem.  The cheapest option is to pull the toilet and check the floor around the wax ring to see if it has been leaking.  A new wax ring only costs a few dollars.  When was the last time you caulked the shower in that bathroom?  The water can leak around the corners or at the door (if you have one) and travel along the floor joists until it pools in a lower spot on the ceiling below, then seep through.  It could also be a seal at the drain of the tub or shower. 

I get a few calls a year for this sort of thing.  It's usually something simple but can be a nightmare to diagnose, especially if the problem is intermittent.  Start with the simple possibilities and use deductive reasoning to narrow the possibilities.  Before you do a lot of damage it may pay off to hire a reputable contractor to help you make sure you've exhausted all of the imple and more obvious possibilities.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services

Drain Pipe Installation reviews in Marshall

N

Rating
Excellent. I would hire these guys back in a heartbeat. Once the schedule was established, all went accordingly. No undeliverable promises were made. We had a little issue with some drainage, this three years after the install and, as promised, SPS came back to the problem, ran some diagnostics and, as far as we know, fixed the issue. We'll have to wait for this year's
Marshall Drain Pipe Contractors Provider Name Locked
ño, but I think they nailed it. We had some pretty heavy rainfall about a month ago and had no problems.
- Nate R.
C

Rating
However, He came and dropped off his equiptment in the middle of the night and came the next day to start work without a confirmed appointment. I almost let him start on the work until I noticed the gas and electric lines had not been marked in the yard.
Marshall Drain Pipe Contractors Provider Name Locked
's response was "I do not need to wait for the lines to be marked, I've done this so many times I know where the lines are" Well that didn't fly with me because I know that is illegal.
He seems to do quality work for a good price, but beware of pushy salesmanship, and lack of secretary skills (setting up appointments and making the right calls to get the underground pipes and wires marked.
I ended up cancelling all work with him.
- Megan L.
A

Rating
I called
Marshall Drain Pipe Contractors Provider Name Locked
because my unfinished basement/crawlspace had been running high humidity and I was frequently noticing some water condensation. He came out and gave a thorough inspection of my crawlspace as well as the surrounding outdoor areas. He highlighted some things that the previous owners could have done better but ultimately were functional. He gave me a few items I could easily do myself and told me to call him if those didn't help my situation.
I implemented
Marshall Drain Pipe Contractors Provider Name Locked
's suggestions and the humidity in my crawlspace has been reduced by about 10-15%, to the point where my dehumidifiers are no longer constantly running and driving up my electricity bill. There were several different options that
Marshall Drain Pipe Contractors Provider Name Locked
could have implemented that would have costed me money, so I appreciate that he gave me some
Marshall Drain Pipe Contractors Provider Name Locked
fixes before we did any kind of big ticket items.
I would use this company again in the future if I need to.
- Evan B.
A

Rating
The crew arrived promptly on the scheduled date and located the sewer line using electronic locating equipment. The crew excavated a twelve-foot deep hole where the locating equipment said the pipe was only to find that the pipe was actually two feet from the excavation. Because of the narrowness of the street, the crew had to refill the hole and come back the following Tuesday to dig a new hole and perform the replacement. Despite this difficulty, the crew remained very professional and took the problem in stride. They left the job site neat and clean both days. The work required the removal and replacement of a section of exposed aggregate concrete. The replacement patch matches the original beautifully.
- Robert R.
A

Rating
The lead guy came out and looked at the site and designed a solution to take care of our drainage problems which could have potentially resulted in foundation problems. We received a map and outline of the services and an estimate. It was a two-day project and the crew arrived on time and worked like trojans. There was a lot of digging. Trenches were dug to carry the water away from the backyard into the street. We also had gutters installed around the garage that fed into the underground drains and surface drains to catch water as well. Attention was paid to detail and environmentally friendly design. They laid crushed granite around the perimeter of the garage.
- Deborah H.
A

Rating
Marshall Drain Pipe Contractors Provider Name Locked
was very responsive. Every time I called he would either answer or return the call within a few hours. He showed up on time (on a Saturday afternoon) to provide an estimate. He was knowledgeable and wrote up an estimate on the spot. He was very upfront with us from the start that his schedule was full for about a month due to all the rain we had earlier this summer. We wanted to proceed so he put us on the calendar for approximately a month out and he ended up coming to do the work a few days early. He and his crew worked very efficiently and did a great job. Our side yard is no longer a swamp and we are happy with the work.
- Kinnery C.
A

Rating
Wow! Could not be easier!
From easy online scheduling, reminders of upcoming service date, technicians arriving on time as scheduled, then complete and very competent work and clean up better than I would do.
This is one excellent plumbing contractor.
- Dennis C.
A

Rating
Marshall Drain Pipe Contractors Provider Name Locked
was punctual coming to the house to review the work scope and make a bid. He offered good solutions to the drainage problem and seemed very open and reasonable to work with. However, it was necessary to demolish an existing deck to regrade the yard and since
Marshall Drain Pipe Contractors Provider Name Locked
did not do deck construction I would need to set up a separate contract with a carpenter for the replacement deck. Although two separate contracts probably was a less expensive option, I was not in a position to manage two contractors so I went with a contractor who could do the entire job.
- John E.

Drain Pipe Contractors in Marshall, TX

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

Ledbetter Plumbing Inc

1526 W Marshall Ave
Longview

Peter Paul's Plumbing Inc

1902 Hwy 80 E
White Oak

Premier Construction

3698 E Marshall Ave
Longview

Ram Jack West

PO Box 11701

Xpress Handyman

1311 LAWNDALE AVE
Longview

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