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B
"Contractor replaced west Kitchen Fluorescent Light Fixture and 2 Bulbs on 07-21-2015 and charged $244.58 for less than 1 hr of work. Given Contractor's price," decided to replace east Kitchen Fluorescent Light Fixture and 2 Bulbs myself. Bought parts from Lowes for $36.12 ($25.32 Fixture and $10.80 for T12 Bulbs). Completed work in less than 2 hours. Contractor's price upon review appears to have been unreasonable.

-CHARLES P.

A
"It went great. The person providing the quote was very thorough and responsive. They were able to have a great crew in our offices within a week and the team onsite" was very professional and asked questions to clarify many things instead of making assumptions. Would certainly use them again and highly recommend them.

-BONNEY P.

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Local Articles in Carrollton

Hiring an Electrician

Good electricians require extensive training and continuing education to keep up with constantly changing technology. Your residential electrical contractor provides an important service to keep your home running safely and smoothly, so you want to hire the best possible person. Read this Homeowner's Guide to Hiring an Electrician to learn more before you hire.

Common Electrical Problems

Although the potential dangers of electrocution and fire should make most homeowners wary of do-it-yourself electrical projects, there are some basic electric troubleshooting tips that can help when you are experiencing issues.

ambient lighting
Lighting, Interior Design & Decorating, Electrical

People often underestimate and overlook lighting when planning a space.

Kitchens offer an abundance of lighting choices that can add aesthetic appeal. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Tim S. of  Atlanta)
Lighting, Electrical

On this episode of the Chat with the Experts podcast, Chuck Hill of Mister Sparky explains lighting options for your home and answers electrical questions.

outlets installed on kitchen counter
Interior Design & Decorating, Electrical

Homes are often constructed with just the minimum required amount of outlets for each area.

firefighter at controlled burn in Indianapolis
Remodeling - General, Electrical, Chimney Sweep

Thirty seconds is the length of most television commercials. It’s also the length of time it takes for a fire to get out of control in your home.

Angie's Answers

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Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.
?

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

?

As I understand it, you are looking at putting in a fan where there is no ceiling electric outlet. Since I am not sure, will try to break out piece by piece, undersanding these wouyld all be lumped into one job (possibly excluding wiring new outlet and switch). I hate to be so general, but access is the key here - if access is easy and there is a suitable light switch in the same room, cost can be at the low end of this range. If assess is poor and you don't want holes knocked in your drywall, then get more expensive real fast.

1) cost of fan typically $125-250 unless high end model

2) remove existing regular 4" box, install supports to joists and new box (ceiling fans need specially supported boxes due to the extra weight and swaying motion of the fans) $50-75

3) tap electric from existing circuit at existing box, upgrade existing light switch box to add one or two more switches (Adjustable for fan speed, 2nd for light, if so equipped), run wiring to ceiling fixture $125-250

4) put up fan, connect, test $75-100

So - total About $250-425 with no box there now, plus cost of fixture. A simple install to replace an existing fan, or install where the ceiling box was wired for a fan, would be only about $75-100.

This all assumes the existing nearby electric circuit can handle the addition of the fan - if not, then wiring cost will go up. It also assumes there is access via open attic or joists to install the wiring. Otherwise, installation cost OK but does NOT include repair to holes in drywall or ceiling to pull wiring.

Note also that an existing ceiling light box would probably NOT fill the bill - code in almost all jurisdictions requires 12 ga wire for fan motors, most household circuits are 14 or 16 gauge, so would need new wire pulled from a circuit with adequate capacity.

Get bids ! I worked on one job where the owner in a high-end house decided to put in fans with fancy candeliers underneath after construction was done - cost almost $3000 to do installation because all the wall and ceilings were finished in a high-end finish, so all wire pulling had to be done remotely - including removing siding to put in pull boxes at changes of direction and fasten conduit to studs. PLAN AHEAD !

 

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Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.

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An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.

 

A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.

 

Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.

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If you already have a fixture there, around $100 plus or minus about $30 if not over 7 or 30 pounds, or about $200-300 if weighs over about 7 or 30 pounds. The 7 or 30 pound ranges are dependent on whether the existing box is plastic or a standard Square-D type or equivalent metal one, because each type of box can only hold so much weight. If existing box is rated 70 pounds or more (ceiling fan or large chandelier rated) then the $100 range should do it regardless.

 

I am assuming when you say mini-pendants you meant from a single box if more than one. If you meant two separate by some feet, add probably about $100 more to add a second box, ASSUMING they will both be run off the same single switch.

 

IF you do NOT have a light fixture there now, then can run from $150-300 range if there is easy access from above (open attic) to $500 or more if has to tear into drywall to install wiring and box so you then have to get drywall contractor and painter in to repair the damages.

Electrician reviews in Carrollton

A

Rating
I hired a different electrician who offered a $49 deal. That electrician caused problems with my circuit breaker, causing my hot water heater to not work after they left. That electrician also took shortcuts and used electrical tape to tape a filler plate.
Carrollton Electricians Provider Name Locked
came out and inspected the previous electrician's work.
Carrollton Electricians Provider Name Locked
immediately recognized the problem and installed a standard breaker in an area the prior electrician had relocated.
Carrollton Electricians Provider Name Locked
inserted the wires, tested the breaker and tested my hot water heater. a filler plate was not necessary since
Carrollton Electricians Provider Name Locked
installed a standard sized breaker. This is the second time I have used
Carrollton Electricians Provider Name Locked
and I wish I hadn't have fell for the other elctrician's $49 "deal."
- Rocky B.
F

Rating
Per an insurance inspection, I needed to add a
Carrollton Electricians Provider Name Locked
circuit filler plate and a few grommets to cover some wires in the breaker box.
Carrollton Electricians Provider Name Locked
sent two workers out. They moved a
Carrollton Electricians Provider Name Locked
2 pole breaker from the top of the box to the bottom where the filler plate was supposed to go, corresponding to the inspectors photos. The problem was they put it in the wrong slot and my water heater stopped working. I did not realize this until after they left. They then literally used black electrician's tape to tape the filler plate to the top of the breaker box where the
Carrollton Electricians Provider Name Locked
2 pole breaker used to sit. I did not realize they used electricians tape to fasten the filler plate until after they left and I touched it, causing it to become unsecured because it was fastened by tape. They apparently used tape because they did not have a the proper size
Carrollton Electricians Provider Name Locked
with them.
I chose
Carrollton Electricians Provider Name Locked
over my usual Angie's List electrician because this was a
Carrollton Electricians Provider Name Locked
project and because of their $49.00 "deal." I ended up having to call my usual Angie's List electrician out, who installed standard 2 pole breaker in the area where the taped filler plate had been located. They then resecured the wires that had been relocated by
Carrollton Electricians Provider Name Locked
into the new standard breaker, and tested my water heater, which now worked. The standard breaker also made the need for a filler plate unnecessary, since the prior breaker was
Carrollton Electricians Provider Name Locked
.
I cannot believe that any licensed electrician would use tape fasten a filler plate. They should have the materials they commonly need with them and if not, go get the items instead of taking extreme short cuts. Also, they should not move working breakers as a short cut either. Finally, if they do move working breakers, they should test them to ensure they are working.
This "deal" ended up costing me more money.
Carrollton Electricians Provider Name Locked
is so unprofessional that I decided I could not trust them to repair the problems they caused. I would never let them in my home again.
- Rocky B.
A

Rating
Bill always arrives on time and keeps working until the job is done. He has a terrific work ethic and pleasant personality. He re-wired our whole 2000 sq ft house a year ago. He probably saved our house from an electrical fire due to faulty wiring.
- Mona R.
A

Rating
Carrollton Electricians Provider Name Locked
did an excellent job in fixing my house's electrical problems. Moreover, he helped me check the wiring of my garage. He is responsive, and came to my house on the same day I called him (he happened to work on another project in a neighboring town). I will be glad to use his service again in the future, and definitely recommend him to others.
- Chen L.
A

Rating
Angies List had contractor contact me so connecting by phone for appointment set-up was pretty easy. Licensed electrician and helper arrived promptly as scheduled. Asked what needed to be done, then started work immediately. Very polite, very quick, very clean (they picked up empty product boxes, wire and such and put it in the trash). Seemed to be earnest people interested in a working relationship not just the one Angies List job. I would hire again. This was my first successful attempt using Angies List and I was pleased. Sure beats having to track down each individual contractor by phone.
- Kathy R.
A

Rating
Most recently Weaver Electric installed the new electrical for our outdoor kitchen and service for an outdoor hot tub. However, I have worked with Weaver Electric for over ten years and continually call them for all my electrical service needs. They have installed and upgraded new electrical service for properties I've had in Houston, Deer Park,
Carrollton Electricians Provider Name Locked
and other areas. They also completed the electrical build-out for our office space. They offer quality workmanship and respectable prices and are very timely and responsive to our service requests. I have referred them to many other property owners and will continue to do so.
- nancy A.
A

Rating
Carrollton Electricians Provider Name Locked
arrived a few minutes prior to scheduled time, proceeded to do the work in a professional manner, cleaned up and left. They did a wonderful job at a reasonable cost. Would definitely hire again.
- jeanette W.
A

Rating
The provider responded promptly and serviced the outlet quickly. It was a very small job and I appreciate the fact that they do small jobs!
- Gayle K.

Electricians in Carrollton, TX

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

Super Roofman LLC

4740 Keller Haslet Rd
Fort Worth

Super Siding & Remodeling

9500 Feather Grass Lane
Fort Worth

Superior Heating and A/C

P.O. Box 460366
Garland

Supreme Home Watch

12870 Trade Way Four

SureTrack Handyman Services

3502 Easton Meadows
Garland

Sy Electric

2317 Newbury Dr
Arlington

SYRELEC CORP

3237 COMMANDER DR
Carrollton

T & CJ Mechanical

1325 Curtis Ln
Terrell

T W DAVI General Contractor

18636 CROWN OVER CT
Dallas

T&D Construction & Remodeling Inc.

4577 County Road 643
Nevada

TAP ELECTRICAL

147 ORR CIRCLE
Palmer

TARTAN HOMES INC

730 EMERALD SOUND BLVD
Little Elm

Taylor Made Electric

6474 County Road 109B
Kaufman

TC LIGHTING

The Colony

TDIndustries Inc

13850 Diplomat Dr
Dallas

TECH CONNECTORS DALLAS

1431 GREENWAY DR
Irving

Tech Remodel Inc

543 PO Box
Grapevine

Techforce Technology

1231 N Glenville Dr
Richardson

TELECOM Document Imaging Solutions

3010 LBJ Freeway
Dallas

TELECOM IP SOLUTIONS

2880 LBJ FWY
Carrollton

Tenlist.com

5729 Lebanon Road
Frisco

Testerman Electrical Service

2077 Riverside Dr
Kaufman

Texas Air Zone LLC

10763 Mapleridge Drive
Dallas

Texas Best Fence

500 E Hwy 121 Business Building B
Lewisville

Texas Longhorns Energy

200 Crescent Ct
Dallas

Texas Remodelers & Builders

556 S Coppell Rd
Coppell

Texas Renovation Services

910 S. Crowley Rd. Ste 9-303
Crowley

Texas State Remodelers

420 Lillard Rd
Arlington

THE ALTERNATIVE SIGNS, INC

1100 S. WILDWOOD DR
Irving

THE BEST HANDYMAN

2901 ABSTON DR
Mesquite

The Granite Girls

3629 Vista Verde Trail
Mckinney

The Home Depot

251 S Industrial Blvd
Euless

The Home Fixer Upper

1628 Toddville Cir
Plano

The HR Group

7407 83rd St
Lubbock

The Laser Group Inc

PO Box 1358
Rowlett

The Personal Touch Contractors

3001 Hardin Blvd.
Mckinney

The Power Clinic

3732 Arapaho Rd
Addison

THE RIGHT APPLIANCES

327 S SHILOH RD
Garland

THOMAS ALLEN CO

2910 BELMEADE DR
Carrollton

Three Way Electric Supply

3210 Fisher Avenue
Fort Worth

TIGER ELECTRICAL CONTRACTORS

1438 CRESCENT DR
Carrollton

TIM DALZELL REMODELING & REDECORATING

326 RIDGEHAVEN PL
Richardson

TITAN ELECTRIC

3216 COMMANDER DR
Carrollton

TITAN TELCOM SOLUTIONS

1925 E BELT LINE RD
Carrollton

TKL Construction

2823 Springview Ln
Mesquite

TMG Construction

2119 Cloverdale St
Arlington

TNT ELECTRICAL SERVICES, LLC

225 NORTHSTAR DR.
Royse City

Tolbert Electric Motor Co Inc

3822 Dividend Dr
Garland

TOLIN MECHANICAL SYSTEMS

1438 CRESCENT DR
Carrollton

Tom's Mechanical, Inc.

735 109th Street
Arlington

Tommys Paint And Remodel Service

1708 Bunker Hill
The Colony

TOOTH AND NAIL LLC

1309 pritchett
Kimp

Top Communication Services

506 N Central Expy
Richardson

Top Notch Concepts

4848 Lemmon Ave
Dallas

Top Quality Electric Service

3021 N Terry St
Fort Worth

Top To Bottom Roofing, Remodeling & Painting

3000 N Stemmons Frwy
Lewisville

Total Property Services

2125 Alfa Romeo Dr

TPC ELECTRIC

1509 Shannon Ct
Carrollton

TPL Mist Systems

P O Box 619
Coppell

TRANSDATA INC

2560 TARPLEY RD
Carrollton

TRAVIS CRUMPTON

721 Abbey Ln
Midlothian

TREND BUILDERS INC

409 N JEFFERSON ST.
Irving

TRIDENT MECHANICAL INC

1510 RANDOLPH ST
Carrollton

Triple R & B Contractors

2721 Misty Harbor Dr
Little Elm

Troy Wonneberg

7809 BORDEAUX LN
Rowlett

Truly Noble Services

2909 Broadway Blvd
Garland

Trusted Restore

12407 N MOPAC
Austin

Tutor Electrical Service Inc

7300 Pecan Court
Mansfield

TYTAN TECHNICAL INC

4814 DOZIER RD
Carrollton

Ultra Electric

10661 Steppington Dr.
Dallas

Unibell Inc.

3717 S Littlejohn Ave
Fort Worth

Unique Interior and Exterior

1403 Mariposa
Mesquite

UNIQUE LIGHTING OF TEXAS

1811 S GOOD LATIMER EXPY
Dallas

United Septic & Mainteance

10310 Chesterton Dr.
Dallas

UNIVERSAL ELECTRONICS INC

3910 OLD DENTON RD
Carrollton

Universal Services And Repair

1001 Brookhaven Dr
Lancaster

Upgrades Construction

10105 Asheboro St
Frisco

Upton Electric

500 East Arapaho Rd
Richardson

V&F Electrician

13555 Kit Lane
Dallas

Vanguard Electrical Services

12002 Forestgate Dr
Dallas

Veteran Hands, Inc

801 Haggard St
Plano

Victoria Gardens of Frisco

10700 Rolater Road
Frisco

Village Designs Remodeling

2806 Lake Brook Ct.
Lewisville

Villareal's Painting

5418 Sundown Ln.
Garland

VIP Services

518 Fairland Dr
Wylie

VM Construction

2423 Rio Grand
Grand Prairie

VOLZ ELECTRIC

12525 Toffee St.
Fort Worth

VTB Services

8004 White Stallion Trl
Mckinney

WADE ELECTRIC INC

7212 PARWELK ST
Dallas

Wall to Wall Restorations

4300 Live Oak Dr
Mesquite

WAMO'S ELECTRIC

9724 MICHEAL LN
Dallas

Wanda All American Electric Carrollton

1754 East Jackson Road
Carrollton

Ware Construction & Electric

829 Reveille Rd
Fort Worth

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

Wayne Scott

1809 Wellington Court
Arlington

WEBB ELECTRICAL CO

PO Box 70866

Weidner Electric,LLC

12390 Fm 121 # 3
Van Alstyne

Welborn Garage Door Inc

1260 Shiloh Rd
Plano

Wells Electric Service Inc

1229 Oriole Ln
Garland

Weltech Renovations

P.O. Box 832141
Richardson

West Custom Home

632 NW Renfro St

White Electric LLC

424 E Main St
Lewisville

WHITE'S SUPER SERVICE

9035 EUSTIS AVE
Dallas

wicz home repair

3017 shenstone dr
Dallas

Widner Electric LLC

12390 Fm 121 # 3
Van Alstyne

Will-Power Electric, Inc

424 County Road 1650
Chico

Willaby Electric, Inc.

205 Windco Circle
Wylie

William French Home Improvements

2111 Justin Road
Flower Mound

Williams Renovation & Building Company LLC

2822 Lost Creek Court
Rockwall

WINDOW IN THE WOMB

1069 Rodin Ln
Carrollton

WIRED FOR BUSINESS LLC

204 Odessa Dr
Haslet

Wireway Electrical Service

1813 Roadrunner Dr
Weatherford

Woodall Construction Services

1035 Willow Creek Drive
Burleson

Woodall Electric

606 25th St

World Class Restoration and Repair

445 N. Briery Rd
Irving

WR Moore Electric LLC

717 County Rd 414
Cleburne

wright 1 electric inc.

2302 blue smoke court north

WRIGHT WAY CONSTRUCTION

702 E PLEASANT RUN RD
Cedar Hill

Xtreme Home Services

709 Saddleback Lane
Flower Mound

Xtreme Remodeling TX

124 rose ln # 105
Frisco

Yandell Electric

PO Box 477
Rockwall

Yash Builders

2901 W Parker Plaza
Plano

YE OLD TOUCH UP MAN

1929 S FM 1138
Royse City

Yer Woodz

Mineral Wells

YOKOGAWA INDUSTRIAL AUTOMATION

2155 CHENAULT DR
Carrollton

Young Construction Co

5105 Wildwood Dr
Flower Mound

Your Construction Source

P O Box 2509
Grapevine

Your Handyman

543 Bennett Lane
Lewisville

Your Next Painter

5313 Onset Bay Dr
Rowlett

Zack's Home Improvement

1722 Lombard St
Garland

Ziggy's Construction

415 N Briery Rd Ste A
Irving

Zigler Custom Exteriors

11116 Windjammer Dr
Frisco

Zitro Signs

PO Box 177123
Irving

Zubras Electric Inc

PO Box 271217
Dallas

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Carrollton Zip Codes

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