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"I read a prior review that stated he did not talk down to women and gave him a try. I can not speak highly enough of the work he did on my two pressure washers." He explained what he was doing, showed me the buildup on some parts and other issues. He got both of them running again. Further he watched me start the
pressure washer and made suggestions that made it easier for me to start it. He did not rush through the job but was extremely good at looking at all the possible causes of why the washers were not working. It is much easier to have someone come to your home and do the repairs then having to take it to a shop to be repaired. He was very courteous. I will use him again.

-Patricia K.

"He came when he said he would and parked his trailer out on the street so as not to get the driveway dirty. I liked the idea that I didn't have to have the" mower taken somewhere and wait until they finish. The whole job took about an hour. In the past I have used a big company and they have the mower a couple of weeks or longer and their costs run about $100 more Both the mower and snow blower he ran for maybe 10 minutes after he was done to make sure everything is working right.

-Charles W.

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Local Articles in Arlington

Lawn mower repair

The average suburban lawn mower is a true workhorse, but you might not be maintaining it as well as you should. Here are some practical tips on troubleshooting common problems, how to make some lawn mower repairs yourself and how to maintain your mower so it keeps performing well year after year.

trimming weeds
Lawn & Yard Work, Landscaping, Lawn Fertilization & Treatment, Lawn Irrigation, Lawn Mower & Power Tool Repair, Landscaping & Lighting, Landscaping - Hardscaping & Pavers, Landscaping - Lakefront, Roto-Tilling, Tree Service

Ready to get your hands dirty? It's time to say goodbye to Old Man Winter and reacquaint yourself with Mother Nature ...

lawn mower side by side clean and dirty air filters
Lawn Mower & Power Tool Repair, Lawn & Yard Work

Lawn mower won't start after a long winter? Clogged air filters or bad spark plugs may be to blame for lawn mower problems at start of the mowing season.

A man starting a push lawnmower
Lawn Mower & Power Tool Repair

Whether it's sharpening blades or getting a professional tuneup, follow these maintenance tips to help your mower run longer.

Lawn & Yard Work, Lawn Mower & Power Tool Repair

It's time to get reel. Manual mowers might be a smart choice for small yards and level terrain.

Angie's Answers


The only time a carburator needs replacing is if you put some really corrosive cleaner in it that ate through the metal (usually aluminum), or if you have physically broken it.

Otherwise, carbs can be rebuilt - rebuild kits (that contain basically all the non-metallic parts, the primer bulb (usually) and carb gaskets) typically run $10-25. A tuneup (carb rebuild and new spark plug) with parts typically runs about $60-80 ($100-150 for rider mowers), although a lot of repair shops have $45-60 spring specials. Probably needs a sharpening too - another $10-15 or so when done as part of a tune-up.

By hiring someone to do it, I presume you mean taking it to a small engine repair shop with a good word of mouth reputation, and being sure to get a dropoff receipt and estimate in writing that you carry away with you.

If it runs at all, or ran last fall, this is probably all you need.

Compare this to the cost of a new mower - for a rider mower, no comparison of course - go with the carb cleaning and rebuild. However, for a standard 20-22 inch push power mower, replacement cost is about $140-250, depending on whether you go with a Walmart special or brand name, additional $100 or so if self-propelled or bagging type.

For a 10 year old push type power mower, if it sits outside all winter or is pretty rusty, since you are not mechanically inclined I would recommend getting a new mower - something like a Sears or Murray Ohio (at Target, WalMart, etc) plain-jane mower for about $150-180 unless you have steep hills or medical issues, then get the self-propelled model. A 20 inch or even 18 inch will do fine for a small lawn; if you have several lawns or a pretty big lawn area (over say 2500 SF) then you probably want a 22 inch - the extra path width makes quite a difference in how long it takes to mow.

If it sleeps in a shed or garage and is not rusting out, I would recommend a new one if the plain jane will do it for you, otherwise if the replacement one that you would buy is over about $250 I would go with the carb overhaul and tuneup.

I would STRONGLY recommend you get a 4 cycle engine - I swear by Briggs and Stratton rather than Tecumseh or other brands. 4 cycles start much easier and are less sensitive to fuel/air mix issues, and the plugs stay clean a lot longer. 2 cycles are lighter for the same horsepower which is why you see them a lot in outboard motors that are less than about 50-80 HP and in small generators and motorcycles, but they are a lot more tempermental about starting, especially in cold weather or after a long storage.

If you pay attention to proper winter storage procedure, rebuilding the carb on the old one should last you another 5+ years. I have a Murray Ohio with 4 cycle Briggs and Stratton engine that is 33 years old, lives in an unheated shed in a northern state, and has had nothing more than annual blade sharpening, oil change every few years, and one carb overhaul and plug cleaning (and ZERO new spark plugs) in its life, and starts by second pull every spring. The key is if you store it inside in a garage to run it dry each fall (so you do not have gas in the garage, for safety reasons in case it leaks out); if you leave it outside I fill the tank to the top so moisture cannot acccumulate from moist air "breathing" in and out of the tank due to temperature changes. I do this with mower, chain saw, leaf blower, weed wacker - all start on first or second pull in the spring (and throughout the summer). If you live in an area with a lot of moisture in the winter air (ours is very dry) you might have to add Heet or Sta-Bil to the fuel can (per instructions) before topping off tank.

You will find other people who say you HAVE to run it dry each season. Their theory is that if there is no gas in it then there is no gas to collect moisture or to evaporate and turn to varnish over the winter (though that generally takes a few years of sitting to happen). My theory is if it is filled with fuel it cannot dry out and leave varnish residue to block the fuel tube screen and fuel jets, plus it does not rust metal fuel tanks by being empty. To each their own procedure.


No personal experience on rider mowers but some with small rider tractors, but since you have gotten no response in 5 days, here is my 2 cents worth:


1) read the Consumer Reports and JD Powers reviews on rider mowers


2) from what neighbors have told me, TroyBilt are maintenance problem and not built very rugged, Sears tend to have transmission/drive train problems, those with John Deere say they were unhappy with the price but they run well and don't have extreme maintenance costs - so sounds to me like JD is best brand out there right now.


3) A recommendation also from personal small engine experience and neighbors - stay with Briggs and Stratton 4 cycle engines if possible, and stay away from 2 cycle engines - they are lighter and cheaper, but have a LOT more starting problems and tend to not last as long.

With you not saying what this is on - could be portable device or very small rider mower - check oill level - some fancier ones on air compressors and pressure washers and rider mowers have oil monitor that shuts it off if oil pressure does not build up. Failed governor spring (rare - would be one of my last guesses) can do this, but when I had it happen the engine ran up to speed and died in only a second or two - not 8 seconds. Governor linkage usually an external metal rod with springs connecting to the carb - try watching it during the 8 seconds to see if it is yanking the throttle/choke setting back causing it to shut down. Also check to be sure not blocked by twig or leaves or such. I would check the plug after it dies - if wet then you are pretty sure you are getting fuel, if dry then maybe it is only getting fuel from manual priming or automatic choke, but then the choke is cutting out and starving the engine for fuel. IF your model has accessible automatic choke linkage (or if choke plate is accessible if you remove air cleaner), try using a long tool (not fingers, in case of backfire through carb) to adjust choke angle to see if that will make it keep running - if you can see it after taking off air cleaner, it should be staying full on for probably 20-40 seconds before it opens up wide open if temperature contr4olled type, but the engine-speed type open up as soon as engine comes up to speed. Another possibility - check air cleaner to be sure not plugged with dirt - wash (and with many models oil) per owners manual instructions. Another common problem - starts on priming or choke, but when on regular fuel flow leans out and dies due to air leak in fuel line letting air in with fuel, or dirty screen in tank not letting enough fuel in to keep it running. Also, crudded up holes in the tank cap can cause vapor lock by not letting air in to tank to replace fuel consumed - remove and take out inner liner and check holes in liner and metal cap are open so you can see daylight through them. Another possibility - look for debris, etc keeping throttle from opening up - could be idle screw jiggled loose and is set too low. Try screwing it in a half turn or so to see if keeps running - because might be starting on choke but then when choke starts opening up the idle setting is too low so throttle is not open enough to keep it running. If consistently runs 8 seconds and dies, try turning the main needle valve 1/4 turn one way, then if tht does not work back the 1/4 turn plus 1/4 turn the other way (keep track of turns so you know where initial setting is) - if one or other makes better than adjust in that range for smooth running and no flooding or leaning out when you open throttle up.
Hi Maurice,
This is Sarah B. in Member Care. Thanks for your interest in Angie's List!
We'll be happy to help find top rated Lawn Mower & Power Tool Repair providers, but it doesn't look like you have a subscription to the List yet. You can join by visiting www.angieslist.com or by giving us a call. Our call center is available 8:00 am-9:00 pm weekdays and 8:00-5:00 pm ET on Saturdays. If you join online, you can save 20% on an annual plan by using the promo code ANSWERS.
Thanks for your question and we look forward to assisting you, Maurice!

Since it would not start BEFORE you took it in for service, hard to blame them - even if rainfall did get in it, because they would assume when you delivered it that it was in "normal" condition, whjich presumably meant vaent closed. By "vent" on top of the gas tank I am not sure what you mean - a "vent" should not let a lot of water in, but if you mean the filler cap then certainly you would get about as much water depth in the tank as the number of inches of rain you had while it was sitting out.


Another possibility - vent was open during your fall washing down, and wash water got into the tank, which then ended up in the gas can for the winter, then back to the mower in the spring.


Other possibility - your gas can picked up a lot of water over the winter, particuylarly if metal and stored in a location where it could warm up during the day (evaporates gas) then as it cools overnight forms a partial vacuum so it pulls in moist air, which then condenses in the can and settles to the bottom. If using normal pour spout, the first thing out of the can in the spring would be the water (would be first into spout as you pour out), so water from the can might have gone into the mower at first filling.


Another possibility which is amazingly common - little Johnny decides to fuel the mower for you and poured water or bug juice or such in there.


BTW - most fuel stabilizers do NOT trap water - fuel stabilizer put a very thin layear on top of the liquid to retart evaporation, so your gaoline does not turn to diesel or sludge. To trap water and keep it from settling out you need alcohol - like Heet. Also, when draining tank, you should drain the first part into a clear containear (mayonnaise jar or such) then after it has settled a few seconds pour back to the can, leaving the water in the bottom of the jar to be disposed of.

Hi Kyle,
This is Sarah B. in Member Care. Thanks for posting!
I was able to find several rated providers to help you. For your current need though, our Snapfix specialists would also be able to do all of the dialing for you, match you up with a top rated company and arrange to have them call you to figure out the logistics. If this sounds like something you would be interested in, please fill out the form in the link below and our Snapfix Team will take it from there!
If you would like to reach out to these providers yourself, please let me know. I’d be happy to send these to you.  No matter which option you choose, I hope you’ll take the time to fill out a review when the work is done.
If you would like information on providers through this forum, please let us know. You can respond to this thread or submit a new Answers post. You can also reach us at memberservices@angieslist.com . We're happy to help, Kyle!

Lawn Mower Repair reviews in Arlington


I had taken apart the motor and wanted to make sure I was ordering the right parts. Knowing I would be doing the work my self
Arlington Lawn Mower Repair Shops Provider Name Locked
still spent the time with me to make sure I was getting the right parts and everything I needed. This is the type of place I like to do business, they are not trying to get everything they can out of you. They just helped make sure I had what I needed. He looked to see if he had a used one too. Parts prices were the same as online, no big make up.
Looking for a good place that will not take you for a ride like others, go see
Arlington Lawn Mower Repair Shops Provider Name Locked
, you will not be disappointed
- David P.

Arlington Lawn Mower Repair Shops Provider Name Locked
picked up my snowblower at my house, he had for a couple of weeks ( I was in no hurry as its September) and brought back to my home. Although I have not started it yet, he diagnosed issue I had before and went over with me in person along with a refresher on do's and don't's with this model. Elmwood is very knowledgeable and so far appears to have done a really good job.
- Eric K.

Arlington Lawn Mower Repair Shops Provider Name Locked
was very punctual (actually running early and called to see if he could come ahead of schedule). He replaced front tires on the push lawnmower (we supplied the wheels), tuned up the push mower, and fixed the riding lawnmower so that it would start (cleaned carburetor and put fresh gas in the tank...it runs great! It only took him about a half hour and he was on his way!
- Rita M.

Arlington Lawn Mower Repair Shops Provider Name Locked
has definitely earned my business going forward with any issues I have with my mowers. He was professional, courteous, knowledgeable and got my mower back up and running in an hour. He then noticed a couple of minor things he recommended for me to keep my eye out on, but suggested I didn't need to invest to get these items fixed at this time. I definitely recommend
Arlington Lawn Mower Repair Shops Provider Name Locked
for anything mower related!
- Heather R.

They visited my home to fix my portable gas-powered generator. The unit had stale fuel and other problems. They were punctual, efficient, fixed the problem and gave me other tips for maintaining the unit. Price was comparable to other shops in the area, but he visited me on site which others would not do. Saved me a lot of hassle and time in not having to transport the unit.

Would highly recommend him.
- Qian Z.

Arlington Lawn Mower Repair Shops Provider Name Locked
and his son arrived right on time and were able to sort through the problem with my zero-turn mower (mower deck belt off spindles) and sharpened the blades for a very reasonable price for the service.
Arlington Lawn Mower Repair Shops Provider Name Locked
also was helpful in explianing the wear on the blades and how to prevent it in the future.
- Lincoln L.

He was late to the first appointment, and unresponsive when I tried calling him about it. He showed up about an hour or hour and a half late. His demeanor was best described as "smug", and instead of replacing the belt, he claimed that he would have to charge us another $150 trip fee instead of just doing it all at once. He told us that he was no slave, and would not work for slave wages. All of this, and the lawnmower still doesn't work. It smells like gas, and now I'm calling someone today to come and pick it up and fix whatever he didn't, or ruined. We also had a nice, old push broom in our garage, which is where he was working. I can't say that I saw him take our broom, but it was certainly missing after he left.

It's nice to have somebody that comes to your own residence to repair a snowblower. If you don't own a pickup truck or full sized van, it is impossible to transport most snowblowers on your own. I didn't have to wait weeks, I didn't have to transport my snowblower, and the price was extremely fair. This is how small engine repair should be done.
- Anne S.

Lawn Mower Repair Shops in Arlington, TX

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

Allen's Handyman Service

2121 Chippendale Dr

Always Dependable Home Remodeling

1008 knight circle

Andy’s Sprinkler Drainage & Lighting

1217 Brumlow Ave


3114 Southeast 8th Street
Grand Prairie



Big & Small Mower Repair

1660 Staree Lane
Fort Worth

Big Red's Equipment Sales & Rentals

4111 Weatherford Hwy

Bishop Services

3700 West Beverly Drive

Botanically Correct Services

North Richland Hills

Burleson Outdoor Power Equipment

625 E. Renfro Street


2301 Highway 1187 Ste 101


4402 Timber Run Dr

Doctor Lawn & Doctor Clean

10000 N Central Expressway

Elevate Construction Inc

1000 S Fairfield Drive

Elite Home Improvement

P.O. Box 704101

Espindola's Lawn Service 12746

12746 Hilltop Drive
Balch Springs

Foreman's General Store

3800 Colleyville Blvd

ForeverLawn of North Texas

11601 Plano Road Suite 116


Fort Worth

Joshua Tanner Lawn Care

1402 Cimarron Trail

Justin Repairs and Installation Service

2088 Briarcliff Rd

Leo Mays Mowing

2113 Tierney Rd.
Fort Worth

MasterLawn Service

9500 Ray White Rd #200
Fort Worth

Mean Green Lawn and Landscape, LLC

2970 Suffolk Dr
Ft Worth

ModernGreen, Inc.

2715 S. Great Southwest Pkwy
Grand Prairie


109 E Ellison St


2324 East I-30
Royse City

Mr Fix-It

4450 fm 1387


Fort Worth

Northstar Management Group

PO Box 301


Haltom City

Not Your Average Joe Construction

901 meadowside circle


2320 S Collins



Professional Maintenance Consultants

featuring: - Emergency Road Service -

Professional Maintenance Consultants featuring ERS

Exclusively Mobile Service

Property Surgeon's Quality Cleaning & Lawn Care

1824 Western Center Blvd
Fort Worth

Repair Pro Construction Handyman

301 S David St

RepairClinic.com Inc

48600 Michigan Ave

Scapes Incorporated

6954 Walnut St

Sears Air Duct Cleaning

12901 Nicholson Rd

Service Combo

308 Andenwood Dr
Fort Worth

Siggi Clean

7136 Winchester Rd
North Richland Hills

Stenson Landscaping Inc

PO Box 502
Lake Dallas

TB Handyman Services

216 Pecan Hollow



Tree Brothers

14005 Brookhaven dr

Will-Power Electric, Inc

424 County Road 1650

Zimmerer Kubota & Equipment

5165 Mark IV Parkway
Fort Worth

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