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"This service provider is AMAZING!!! I highly recommend them. They were on time, explained the process step by step and did a GREAT JOB!!!

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C
"Air duct cleaning great. Dry wall removal great. Not sure about treatment of wood, some dark areas now appearing. Clean up ok.

-Mike M.

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Local Articles in Old Hickory

Mold

Nothing strikes fear like the sight of black mold. Learn about household mold, mold symptoms, how to test for mold and the best methods for mold removal.

A cold-air return duct work for an HVAC system
Mold Testing & Remediation, Air Duct Cleaning

Worried about mold in your air ducts? Learn how to test for mold and what you can expect to pay for air duct cleaning.

carpet rolls in front of a home
Water & Smoke Damage, Carpet Cleaning, Mold Testing & Remediation

Flooding, plumbing leaks can lead to harmful mold growth on and underneath your home's flooring.

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Contractors say homeowners with this trait are the most satisfied with home improvement projects.

Many homes in humid climates are susceptible to mold growth on furniture, clothing and even structural walls if there is inadequate ventilation, says Belk. (Photo courtesy of Gold Coast Flood Restorations)
Mold Testing & Remediation

Long-term exposure to certain types of toxic molds can be catastrophic. One highly rated provider shares four easy tips to prevent mold from invading your home.

Angie's Answers

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Mold in a basement is a common problem. My company helps people with this every day. Some of the answers you received were helpful but not all the information is correct. First, you need to eliminate the two main ingrediants that mold needs to survive. The first one is water intrusion. This is a must. I am assuming you have no water intrusion as you make no mention. The second componant that needs to be eliminated is moisture. Moisture is also humidity. Basements need to be kept airtight in the summer months. Some folks have posted that you need air flow in your basement. Nothing could be furthur from the truth. When you open any windows for example, not one micron of air goes out of the basement, Warm humid air is sucked into the basement. Houses suck air into the basement and it meets the cool surfaces and skyrockets humidity. The windows must be kept closed and a dehumidification device installed to ensure humidity stays below 60% humidity. The dehumidifier should be energy star rated and purchasing a seperate humidity guage is a must to monitor the unit's progress. We like to keep our customer's basements at 50% humidity. This eliminates the smell that is active mold spore growth. Once the water and humidity is brought under control. Remove the organic materials that have mold on them. Walls, sheetrock and studs that have been affected. Follow the advice of previous posts as you must ensure that you do not affect the rest of the home. Once removed, install new walls using as much inorganic material as possible. We also install vapor barrier over the walls and seal the floors to stopwater vapor transmission into the basement. Poly plastic is not a acceptable vapor barrier. It is not "zero-perm" and will still allow moisture transmission. It will also crack and break into pieces over the years. A PVC liner rated "zero-perm" is the correct product in this application. Depending how large the basement is and if it is sectioned off will determine the dehumidifier strength. We use the Santa Fe line of dehidifiers as they are super energy efficiant and work like a dehumidifier on steriods. I hope this helps and I wish you the best in Basement Health!
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Is the cabin conditioned year round or at all?

 

Are there any grading or moisture issues that are allowing bulk moisture into the crawl?

 

Conditioning the crawl is usually the best answer but if it is sporadic use and/or makes better sense to leave as a vented space, you need to do the following for optimum performance:

 

- Install a vapor barrier across the floor.  Seal all piers and penetrations as well as seal to the stem wall.

- Insulate the underside of the floor and ideally thermally break the floor joists from the earth.

- This is best accomplished by covering the floor joist with a rigid foam and sealing all the seams.

 

 

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When you say vented to the roof, do you mean into the attic UNDER the roof, or through the roof with a duct up through a roof jack into a roof hood ? Hopefully the latter, otherwise you have the likely source of the problem.

You are clearly getting moisture in this area still, so more insulation will not help and may hurt - insulation does not stop moisture but does trap it, particularly if you add enough tht the freezing front moves well down into the insulation, so vapor coming up from the house freezes in the insulation (making it wet when it thaws) rather than venting into the attic and evaporating from there.

You need an expert check on the bathroom area - that the fan unit and any light fixtures are tighly sealed to the vapor barrier. Usually they are installed with about a 1/4-1/2 inch void all around for ease of installation, and not sealed at all, so moist bathroom air vents around themm into the attic.

Then the fan unit needs checking for openings - many have openings in the plastic or metal case from manufacturing that are not sealed but should be. Do NOT use any type of unit that, because of big lights or heat lamp, says it has to be vented and cannot be sealed in, because moist air goes right up through it.

Then the duct from the fan up through the roof needs checking for leaks (and should be insulated, at least if your attic goes below freezing ever), and should have a roof jack where it penetrates the attic - a rubber seal in a metal plate that fits tightly around the duct, so the air blown into the vent hood on the roof cannot circulate back down into the attic. Most installers just cut about a 1 foot opening in the roof (especially if they can install the duct that way without having to crawl around in itchy attic insulation), run the duct up through it into the roof hood, and walk away. That leaves that big opening in the roof sheathing for the wet air and condensation in the hood to corculate right back down into the attic. Some installers (like my house whenn I first bought it) really take the easy route and don't even connect the duct to the hood - they just terminate it a foot or so below the sheathing so ALL the moist air goes into the attic.

I would also check the kitchen and any other bathroom fans for the same leak sources or improper installation, and make sure all vent pipes are intact to above the roof, and that there are no furnace or HVAC ducts disconnected or damaged that could be adding moisture.

Also look around all roof penetrations for ducts and pipes for staining on the underside of the sheathing, which would be indicative of roof hood or jack leaks that should be repaired. (Hopefully, with a new roof you would not have any).

The area most affected should have the insulation moved away and checked to see if the vapor barrier has holes or tears, openings around pipes, ducts, light boxes or wiring, or was maybe totally torn out by some prior workman. If your vapor barrier is not effective, moist household air will move into the attic almost year around, but especially in cold weather, carrying moisture into the attic, where it will condense and cause mold.

Also - if you have a fireplace chase (wood boxout around metal chimney) in that area, it may connect to the house in the firebox area and be open to the attic (which is a real fire spread hazard but for some reason is not contrary to code), letting household air flow by that route.

The mold should be brushed and vacuumed away, then treated - there are commercial sprays that are fungicides that commercial mold and mildew removal contractors have, a sprayed chlorine bleach and borax solution has also been shown to work but you would have to have an air supplied respirator and chemical suit to work with that, which only professional remediation contractors have. Do NOT paint the area - especially the underside of the roof sheathing and trusses. They needs to be able to breathe, not have any moisture from above locked in.

Stains in the attic (assuming this is an unoccupied area) can be bleached, and then if you want the evidence to go away and make it easier to tell if there is new staining or mold, sanded to remove the worst of them.

Stains on areas visible from the outside like walls and rafters can be treated with Chlorine bleach (beware of dripping on good finishes below), painted with Kilz or similar anti-fungal primer, then painted. Stains on the underside of the sheathing visible in the soffit area can be bleached and then when dry, sanded away.

Ventilation is essential, but without removing the source of most the moisture you will not win this war no matter how many times you battle it.

While I would guess the fans and vents are the problem, is there anything different about the attic ventilation to this area versus the other parts of the roof - soffit covers, blocked eave openings, insulation-clogged bug screening or soffit cover openings, lack of air chutes or eave baffles, insulation pushed up against eave opening or up against roof, horizontal blocking that prevents or obstructs airflow, no ridge vent above it, etc ?

If you are not able to find an obvious source of the moisture, I woud consider getting a thermal IR scan of the attic. For typically about $200-300 an energy conservation expert with thermal scanner can scan the attic (might have to be done at night or VERY early morning if done in summertime, to accentuate the temp difference between house air and attic air, unless you have AC in which case turning the AC down low and blower on full can work by pushing cold air rather than hot up through any gaps or voids. If you have that done, check on price to add in the rest of the house too - probably not more than about $100 more, and can show you where your air leaks and poor insulation air. You should try to get one who can provide the entire scan to you on CD or DVD, so you can review it in the future. Here is a link to some images so you know what I am talking about -

http://www.google.com/images?client=safari&rls=en&q=house+IR+scan&oe=UTF-8&hl=en&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&ei=rhfRUci4F-TbigLghIHIAg&ved=0CDcQsAQ

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Call in the professionals.

There is no sense addressing the mold issue until you resolve the basement leaks.

High ground water that is seeping into your basement is going to lead to long term, serious damage to your foundation and basement walls.  Any mold you remove will just keep coming back.  The first question is the age of the home and whether or not you have working perimeter drain tile installed.  If you home is pretty old (30+ years) it is possible you do not have a drainiage system, or the system is clogged / deteriorated beyond function.  For a newer home, perimeter drain tile was a requirement, but doesn't mean it was installed properly.

I recommend you hire a licensed architect to review your house's construction, the site and look for indications that a drainage system is in place and functioning.  They should be able to find out where the drain comes out, and to check it (after a rain or by doing a water test) to see if it is working.  If it is working, it is possible your system is undersized or only failing in a specific area.  It is also possible a second, lower water table exists that is below your current drain system.  A site change, to change the current flow of ground water or above ground water may resolve your issue as well.  Something as simple as a new drainage ditch, retention pond or higher grades around your building may resolve your issue.

Working with a professional will prevent you from worrying about a 'draingage expert' recommending a high cost repair when another option may be available.

Some drainage people will propose installing a new perimiter drain inside your basement walls.  This system gets the water that gets through the walls and under the floor, and carries it back out.  This is a last ditch idea.  The best method, to solve the issue for good, is to dig back down to your footers, repair the waterproofing on the wall, then place drainage board over it (this protects the waterproofing while allowing moisture a travel path to your drain tile).  Then place gravel fill with geo-fabric over it, then backfill.  Now, no matter how much water you have in your ground, it will be directed away from your basement.

A sump pump in the basement to handle flooding or low water tables below your basement slab will augment this system.

Once you have the moisture issue resolved, then worry about stopping mold.  In the interim, any materials that are growing mold need to be removed (use protective measures).  Make sure you run a dehumidifier at all times and keep air moving by turning on the basement hvac vents or putting some fans in the area.

Working with a licensed architect will help ensure you pinpoint the exact problem, and have a knowledgable person to discuss the options with before doing any costly work.  The architect will also be able to assist with finding contractors and overseeing that the work is installed correctly (It is worthless to redo the drainage if any one area is not done correctly).  Good luck.

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Mold Removal reviews in Old Hickory

A

Rating
It went extremely well Employees were prompt & polite. They were careful to cut up carpet and remove through basement window rather than drag up through house. They worked very hard to empty & dry out basement.
- Edmund Q.
A

Rating
The workers were very professional and hardworking. And they worked very quickly. It didn't take them anytime to complete the work and get it ready for painting.
- Miranda R.
A

Rating
Old Hickory Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
checked the moisture levels on the walls and ceiling of the bathroom. In addition, he checked my humidifier in the lower level of my home. He recommended a paint specific for mold and recommended a dehumidifier to eliminate the possibility of mold.
- Ciara W.
A

Rating
The inspector reported that the spots did not appear to be active mold and perhaps were burns from pipe repairs.
He discussed what he would do if it were his home and showed me how to paint over the spots if I was still concerned.
Very honest work in my opinion, as he could have tried to sell me a line on the dangers of this possibly being mold and quoted me a repair price. But instead he went the honest route and earned my praise here.
- Jacob G.
A

Rating
Old Hickory Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
evaluated the situation of the mold growth we had discovered. He thoroughly checked the rest of the house for mold. He also determined the cause of the mold that we had noticed, and created a detailed written plan for the mold remediation. He also tested our air outside, downstairs, and upstairs for mold contamination.
Old Hickory Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
was prompt, very professional, and answered all my questions.
- Kitna R.
N

Rating
it went very well. My garage is below my family room. the sub
floor had mold on it. Mr.
Old Hickory Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
also found large pieces of
the old heat system that my contractor left behind. the old
installation got wet from a dishwasher breaking. It was a slow
leak that I did not catch because it went into the garage and...More /> got the old installation wet, causing mold on the sub floor.
Long story short, they removed all the old installation and removed
the mold from the sub-floor and then treated it to prevent future
mold from coming back.
I had my house tested many times for mold because of very
poor plumbing , but i never had garage tested. His inspection
was very complete. The cost was not that much, considering
how far this mold could have grown till I would have noticed it.
I appreciate his complete inspection of my house.
He also cleaned all vents, and my air conditioner worked so
much better. I had put new dry wall in many rooms two years
ago and as much as the workman sealed the vents it still had
quite a bit in them.
would not hesitate in hiring mr.
Old Hickory Mold Removal Experts Provider Name Locked
again, although I hope
I do not need to.
- elizabeth C.
B

Rating
It was okay.
I would probably not use him again because it was kind of an unusual thing and it sounded to me like he was trying to sell work from somebody else for water damage. I'm sure he did what he was supposed to do. It was just strange to me that everywhere he went he found water in the walls, water here and water there. I don't have that problem in my house.
I had him come out because I had a mold issue in my bedroom and he just didn't impress me with what he came up with. It was like a guy was looking for things and then recommending a friend that could do that. It didn't sit really good with me.
- Margaret C.
A

Rating
Our washing machine flooded our basement on a Sunday night so I immediately called Guy who had previously done terrific work addressing some mold issues for us in our attic. Guy had his team at our home first thing Monday morning to dry out the area (including the carpet) and strip out the damaged ceiling and tiles. A week later his crew replaced the tiles and insulation. His timely response to our problem saved our carpet and made the whole process so easy. He and his crew were professional, timely and highly responsive. The overall work was done very well and at a reasonable price.
I would call Guy in a heartbeat for any issue I thought he could help with. In fact, this past winter, when we had a minor roof leak and I couldn't reach my roofer during the crazy winter storms, he was willing to come over the next day to look at our leak but my roofer ended up getting back to me before Guy came by.
- Mark W.

Mold Removal Experts in Old Hickory, TN

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

21st Century Home Inspections

5071 Hwy 70 S,
Nashville

A1 Waterproofing

1354 west college st

AAA Remediation Inc

PO Box 267
Cross Plains

AdvantaClean of North Middle Tennessee

3808 CrossCreek Road
Nashville

All Surface Painting

274 Big Ridge Rd
Knoxville

Ameri Care Services Inc

526 S Walnut St
Murfreesboro

American Mold Solutions

6655 Nolensville Rd
Brentwood

American Services LLC

6801 Cloudland Dr
Nashville

ApexWorks Restoration

460 Metroplex Drive, Suite 112
Nashville

AQM NOLA

743 Pearce Way

Artisan Restorations, LLC

4899 Clarksville Hwy
Whites Creek

BJK PROPERTY INSPECTIONS INC

4282 PATE RD
Franklin

Bradley Inspection Services

1013 Tower Hill Ln
Hendersonville

Breathe Easy Mold Remediation

1800 Tranquil Acres Rd
Sequatchie

Carlson Complete Home

103 W Meade Dr
Lebanon

Choice Property Restoration LLC

1001 Lincoya Bay Dr.
Nashville

Crawl Space Care

277 Tusculum Dr
Antioch

Cre8ive Construction

1316 8th Street
Old Hickory

Cross Driven Construction

1558C Brinkley Branch Rd
Hendersonville

Diligent, LLC

263 Riverside Dr
Nashville

Dillards Renovations and Repair

4729 Hunters Crossing Dr
Old Hickory

Drying Specialists LLC

3838 Tamiami Trl N Ste 416

E ROBERTS ALLEY & ASSOCIATES INC

PO Box 158969
Nashville

Eagle's Nest Home Inspection Service LLC

3813 Plantation Dr
Hermitage

Elan', LLC

PO Box 698
Old Hickory

FAST HANDYMAN SERVICE

4731 TROUSDALE DR
Nashville

Final Touch Painting Company

211 Bluewater Ct
La Vergne

First Southern Restoration

355 East Harris Rd
Bethpage

Flood Pro, LLC

2817 West End Ave
Nashville

Franklin Environmental Services LLC.

2020 Fieldstone Parkway
Franklin

Fresh Start Restoration & Cleaning

157 Space Park South
Nashville

From The Ground Up Inspections

1784 W. Northfield Blvd. Ste 112
Murfreesboro

Frost Environmental Services, LLC

339 Rockland Rd Ste E
Hendersonville

Gordon Construction

56 W Division St
Mount Juliet

Guardian Duct Cleaning

275 16th Ave S
Nashville

Healthy Indoor Technologies

521 Michele Drive
Antioch

Home Inspection All Star Nashville

203 N 11th St.
Nashville

Instant Dri

11124 Kingston Pike
Knoxville

Integrity Roofing TN

2029 Lincoln Rd
Spring Hill

JSC, LLC General Contractors

2733 Joe Mac Lipscomb Road
Springfield

KELLOGG CONSTRUCTION

4864 Williams Rd
Cross Plains

Leslie's Roofing LLC

6220 Falcon Ln

Meitzler Construction

4496 Harpeth School Rd
Franklin

Mercer Home Inspections

9544 E Fork Dr
Murfreesboro

Modern Day Wrecking

1207 Baptist World Center
Nashville

Mold Inspection & Testing Nashville TN

2711 Ellington Circle
Nashville

PuroClean Emergency Property Recovery

2620 Locust Street
Nashville

Rapid Restoration, LLC

3610 Kelton Jackson Rd
Springfield

Reeves Pest Company

4922 Port Royal Rd
Spring Hill

Reliant Home Services

1019 Longhunter Chase Drive
Spring Hill

Republic Roofing & Restoration LLC

91 Peyton Pkwy
Collierville

Restorepro Inc.

1810 hy 41
Goodlettsville

Restorify Restoration

475 Metroplex Dr STE 108
Nashville

Richey Restoration

9574 Lebanon Rd.
Mount Juliet

Rolyn Companies

561 Thornton Road

Roof Roof Nashville

2250 Southgate Blvd
Murfreesboro

Servpro

911 Twin Elms Ct
Nashville

Servpro of Sumner County

730 Airport Rd
Gallatin

Stainmasters Carpet & Restoration

6350 Lickton Pike
Goodlettsville

STEAMATIC

2215B Dunn Avenue
Nashville

Summit Property Restoration LLC

655 N Main St
Goodlettsville

Tennwood

2714 New Port Royal Rd
Thompsons Station

THE CLEAN LIVING COMPANY INC.

6324 Murray Ln
Brentwood

The Kingston Group, LLC

4705 Alabama Avenude
Nashville

The Wills Company

6606 CHARLOTTE PIKE
Nashville

Timmco of Clarksville

61 West Dr
Clarksville

Trace Inspections

1643 Zurich Dr
Spring Hill

WESTERLY CONSTRUCTION CO

334 46th Ave N
Nashville

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