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"Two nice guys came in after we paid the $399 service and then told us they could not do the work due to the fact that they didn't know what electrical was under" the ceiling. I had told them ahead of time that it was a townhouse and that there was no attic access, but before we bought the deal they assured me they could do it by phone. We asked for a refund and were told that we could get other types of lights installed, like wall sconces. However, we did not have the need for sconces and didn't want to spend even more money to buy additional fixtures just so we could use our $399 credit.

-Nabil E.

"I'm completely satisfied with the quality of the work and the professionalism of this company. This was an expensive job. I don't know completely for sure" that Signature's price was the best I could have gotten, but after consulting with several companies, Signature was the only one that was unambiguously willing to tackle it. This job was clearly not your average electrician's idea of a good time, but they took the job and took the time to do it right. The ceiling looks great now. I actually did hire them again for a much more minor job more recently, and that went well also.

-Daniel C.

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Local Articles in Newport

Hiring an Electrician

Good electricians require extensive training and continuing education to keep up with constantly changing technology. Your residential electrical contractor provides an important service to keep your home running safely and smoothly, so you want to hire the best possible person. Read this Homeowner's Guide to Hiring an Electrician to learn more before you hire.

Common Electrical Problems

Although the potential dangers of electrocution and fire should make most homeowners wary of do-it-yourself electrical projects, there are some basic electric troubleshooting tips that can help when you are experiencing issues.

outlets installed on kitchen counter
Interior Design & Decorating, Electrical

Homes are often constructed with just the minimum required amount of outlets for each area.

adjusting a hardwired smoke detector
Alarms, , Electrical

Dear Angie: How often do I need to replace my hard-wired smoke detectors? And who should I hire to do this? Our 15-year-old system has five detectors. A few are chirping, and it doesn’t stop even when we replace the batteries. – Michael G., Benbrook, Texas

DVRs are a top Energy Vampire
Electrical, Appliance Sales

DVRs are the most diabolical of the many home appliances that use energy even when turned off.

ambient lighting
Lighting, Interior Design & Decorating, Electrical

People often underestimate and overlook lighting when planning a space.

Angie's Answers

Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).


As I understand it, you are looking at putting in a fan where there is no ceiling electric outlet. Since I am not sure, will try to break out piece by piece, undersanding these wouyld all be lumped into one job (possibly excluding wiring new outlet and switch). I hate to be so general, but access is the key here - if access is easy and there is a suitable light switch in the same room, cost can be at the low end of this range. If assess is poor and you don't want holes knocked in your drywall, then get more expensive real fast.

1) cost of fan typically $125-250 unless high end model

2) remove existing regular 4" box, install supports to joists and new box (ceiling fans need specially supported boxes due to the extra weight and swaying motion of the fans) $50-75

3) tap electric from existing circuit at existing box, upgrade existing light switch box to add one or two more switches (Adjustable for fan speed, 2nd for light, if so equipped), run wiring to ceiling fixture $125-250

4) put up fan, connect, test $75-100

So - total About $250-425 with no box there now, plus cost of fixture. A simple install to replace an existing fan, or install where the ceiling box was wired for a fan, would be only about $75-100.

This all assumes the existing nearby electric circuit can handle the addition of the fan - if not, then wiring cost will go up. It also assumes there is access via open attic or joists to install the wiring. Otherwise, installation cost OK but does NOT include repair to holes in drywall or ceiling to pull wiring.

Note also that an existing ceiling light box would probably NOT fill the bill - code in almost all jurisdictions requires 12 ga wire for fan motors, most household circuits are 14 or 16 gauge, so would need new wire pulled from a circuit with adequate capacity.

Get bids ! I worked on one job where the owner in a high-end house decided to put in fans with fancy candeliers underneath after construction was done - cost almost $3000 to do installation because all the wall and ceilings were finished in a high-end finish, so all wire pulling had to be done remotely - including removing siding to put in pull boxes at changes of direction and fasten conduit to studs. PLAN AHEAD !



Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.


An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.


A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.


Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.


If you already have a fixture there, around $100 plus or minus about $30 if not over 7 or 30 pounds, or about $200-300 if weighs over about 7 or 30 pounds. The 7 or 30 pound ranges are dependent on whether the existing box is plastic or a standard Square-D type or equivalent metal one, because each type of box can only hold so much weight. If existing box is rated 70 pounds or more (ceiling fan or large chandelier rated) then the $100 range should do it regardless.


I am assuming when you say mini-pendants you meant from a single box if more than one. If you meant two separate by some feet, add probably about $100 more to add a second box, ASSUMING they will both be run off the same single switch.


IF you do NOT have a light fixture there now, then can run from $150-300 range if there is easy access from above (open attic) to $500 or more if has to tear into drywall to install wiring and box so you then have to get drywall contractor and painter in to repair the damages.

Electrician reviews in Newport


I really can't speak highly enough of the professionalism and reliability that
Newport Electricians Provider Name Locked
demonstrated during my experience. The customer service person was courteous and delivered everything promised as far as return phone calls etc.The technician,
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, was extremely helpful over the phone (I was not the one at home when he came to repair), walking me through his findings, as well as looking into an additional unrelated item I asked about. He was polite, knowledgable and, perhaps most impressive, he was punctual.
Given that customer services is an often elusive thing here in Miami, I was extremely pleased with the timeliness, responsiveness and professionalism demonstrated by
Newport Electricians Provider Name Locked
at each turn.
- Brad H.

My well pump failed, apparently after a surge or lightening strike early last Thursday morning. I decided to replace the control box that same day when I saw one of the capacitors was leaking, but in the end the pump had to be replaced. When I restored power after replacing the box, not only did my well pump still not work, but now none of the outlets in the master bedroom worked. For what it's worth, I've done lots of this kind of home maintenance work over the past 25 years without incident, so this was puzzling.
I called
Newport Electricians Provider Name Locked
Friday afternoon, explained my problem and discussed possible causes, but the person who schedules appointments was gone for the day and I had to call back Monday for that. Over the weekend I moved furniture, pulled outlets, moved wires from the compression fittings to the side screws and buzzed each out, but couldn't find the problem. In the meantime I ran two heavy-duty extension cords to another circuit to power the devices normally plugged into the powerless circuit. Monday afternoon I noticed that this circuit too had lost power and began to suspect the UPS that provides backup power to my DVR, so I swapped it with another one until Mr.
Newport Electricians Provider Name Locked
arrived the next day.
Newport Electricians Provider Name Locked
himself came to my home, listened carefully to what I told him then went pretty much directly to my problem. We went out to the breaker box and he noticed that I have a transfer box wired into the breaker box so our emergency generator directly powers certain circuits during an electrical outage. Apparently when I was checking the screws in the breaker box I'd leaned on the transfer box switches (it's manual, not automatic) and completely turned off the power to the first "failed" circuit. We speculate that the second was left teetering in an intermediate position for a couple of days before the force of the internal spring caused it to switch to the 'off' position as well. Flipped the switches and problem solved.
Now, some might feel like Mr.
Newport Electricians Provider Name Locked
did very little, but I'd spent 4 days off and on (as new ideas occurred to me) trying to find this without success. I keep two bins of spare screws and washers stacked in front of the transfer box and might have gone weeks without noticing the problem, so I feel like it was money well spent on a lesson I'll never forget :).
- Ronald S.

Newport Electricians Provider Name Locked
was outstanding. He always showed up when he said and his quote was right in line with all my other quotes. I chose
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because I felt comfortable with him, he explained the quote in detail and he understood what I wanted. During construction, his crew was always on time (often on the job site before I arrived). They were extremely pleasant, courteous, and professional. At the end of the day they always left the job site clean. I was thrilled with the work
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and his crew did for me and would highly recommend him to anyone.
- John S.

I had to update the wiring in my 115-year-old home. The job ended up being about
4 times as big as expected.
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was great to work with. He was consistent and
communicative, and really went all out to get the job done when we were down to
the wire. He and
Newport Electricians Provider Name Locked
also did a great job of containing the mess as much as
possible. He also connected me to the patching & painting company that I
used, who did a great job.
- Marakah M.

Great, I had waited to long to schedule, he was able to fit me into his schedule and get the work done. He was able to get the job done quickly. He made suggestions to improve the stability of the fan and he replaced some old wiring while he was at it.

- Deborah M.

Newport Electricians Provider Name Locked
was excellent- informative, easy to talk too and very responsive. He went above and beyond to help us through this process. Every reference of his I called spoke very highly of him. Not to mention his prices were excellent and very transparent.
- Jade W.

I replaced battery but still not working. He was great. He gave me options to replace receiver, purchase myself or he would purchase, install OR if we wanted to go the less expensive route, which we did, he would rewire the fan to by pass the dead receiver and operate solely by the light rocker switch. Works great.
I also have high regard for their honesty because our garbage disposal had stopped working. I tried the crank thingie underneath but nothing. He could have checked it and said we needed a new one or some expensive wiring... He suggested.... did you push the red reset button under the bottom? Voila working. Very honest, would definitely use them again. very pleased.
- Mira S.

Suddenly, only half of my house's electricity was working. Half the lights in half the rooms, no
Newport Electricians Provider Name Locked
or microwave, but the refrigerator was working, and the heating system was not. I called this older gentleman about 9 p.m. and he came out the very next day at 8 a.m. when others could not make it out for a few days. He checked things out rather quickly and replaced a circuit breaker at the outside of my house, where half the breaker had gone bad. He also said a
Newport Electricians Provider Name Locked
quality breaker was used when the house was built, and that the amperage was not correct on the old breaker.
He was courteous, friendly, and humorous at times (like older fellas are).
After he solved my problem, my neighbors told me he also did some wiring for them from their house down into a shed, and they said his price was reasonable compared to other electricians they contacted.
I plan to call on him any time I have an electrical problem I cannot figure out on my own.
- Michael N.

Electricians in Newport, TN

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!


PO Box 66

Accurate Mechanical

1140 Union Rd

Ace Electric Service Co LLC

3300 Rifle Range Road

Alexander Technical Resources

1263 Glenwood Ave. SE

All Done Handyman & Remodeling

1144 cherry blossom ln.

Allied Contractors

155 limbo dr

Appalachian Builders LLC

578 Jim Fox Rd.

Arc Electrical Solutions

2938 Wayside Rd

Archer Electric

726 Big Springs Drive

AVS Design Concepts Inc

18 Emory Pl

Barnes Electric

408 Cook Rd

Bizzy B Plumbing & Home Improvement

5845 Tallassee Rd.





Brandon Eubanks Plumbing & Electrical

135 Church St
Hickory Valley

Bridge Water Construction

31 Hackett Hollow Lane
Pleasant Shade

CAM Electric

5988 Stanley Chapel Church Rd
Union City

Cochran Exteriors LLC

6330 E 75th St


145 Cold Creek Dr.

Covenant Heating & Cooling LLC

176 A Molly Walton Dr

D & R Siding Co LLC

2320 Hwy 41A S

David Adams Electric

7735 Hwy 57

DirectBuy of Indianapolis

8450 Westfield Blvd

DRG Heating and A/C

215 Glenwood Dr

Easy Living Construction

70 Commercial Loop Way

Ed's Repair and Construction

7280 Newport Highway

Ellenburf's Plumbing Electric

195 Granby Ln

Exquisite Designs

47332 Sterdley Falls

Extreme Lawn Care

85 Wyndelake Cv

FES Security

P O Box 4134

Global Electric-Climate Control,LLC

1668 Deerwood Road

H&H Home Improvements

507 Prichard St

HandiMax Handyman

150 Liberty Way

Handyman House Surgeon

501 Grace Ave

Handyman Ken Can

137 Cypress Lane

Hughes Brothers Investment Group

704 Kelly St

J.H.M Enterprises

208 Red Oak Dr

JR's Small engine repair

808 childress ave

JS Builders

1008 Gists Creek Rd

KG Construction LLC

427 Cumberland Hills Dr

LB Affordable Construction

911 Hollywood Dr

Leslie's Roofing LLC

6220 Falcon Ln

Mannix Heating & Cooling

26955 Gum Spring Rd

Pape's Handyman/Remodeling Co LLC

PO Box 1454 209 W Main St

Power Solutions

2409 Lebanon Rd

R & K Home Improvements

2070 Wild Cherry Ct


143 Old Huff Hollow Rd

Rays Electric

3949 Pearl Valley Rd

Real Home Theaters

376 Commerce Street



Reliable Building Services Inc

511 Park St

Sharp Home Repair

7160 Lakeshore Drive

Shelter Home Maintenance

9405 Nashville Hwy

Simon & Simon Construction

437 Jones Rd
Union City

Stinnett Heating & Air

833 W Hwy 25/70

Sumner Development

1280 Hwy 259

Super Man

3540 Price

Tennessee Mobile Home Parts Store

770 Highway 139, Douglas Dam Road

The Service Company

White Bluff

ThompsonMay Electric

1541 Bruce dr.

Valley Building Supply, Inc

2110 Hwy 11 N


12637 S 265 W Suite 100


PO Box 70866

Westmorland Elec Htg & Clg

1221 George Malone Rd

Woodall Electric

606 25th St

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Newport Zip Codes

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