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"
performed well; arrived as expected and finished the work in a workmanlike manner. Price for this job was $105. This was our initial work" with
and we are really pleased!

-CAROL W Z.

D
"I got ROYALLY SCREWED on the parts! I will never use
again! I signed up for a special deal via Angie's - one hour of labor for $40." In all fairness to
,
(excellent phone rep) explained what I needed to purchase myself in order to keep the cost down - the motion light, an electrical box, Romex wiring and conduit. I purchased the light, but there were so many different kinds of elec. boxes, plus the wiring & conduit were a minimum of 25 ft, I thought I'd let them provide that. I knew there would be a
up, but figured it wouldn't be that expensive. Important note: The location of the motion light is about 3' above my electrical panel, a pretty easy job. The workers showed up on time and were very professional. When I told them I only had the motion light, they told me it would be: $150 for the wiring (it's generally under $30 for 50 feet) $85 for the round bell box (seriously?! They're under $10 at Home Depot!) $50 for the 5 feet of conduit I needed (it runs about $1 a foot) This totals $285 and they said the best they could do was $250 (how nice of them, eh?). I was outraged but only since I had taken a "vacation" day off work to have this done, I said okay. I am so angry, knowing full well that I was screwed, but in a bind. I would NEVER use
again and am going back to my reliable electricians. I now know there's no such thing as a deal.

-Peggy P.

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Local Articles in Jefferson City

The Angie's List Guide to Winter Maintenance

It's the time of year when the winter weather can take a toll. Follow this winter maintenance checklist to protect your home, your car and your health.

Hiring an Electrician

Good electricians require extensive training and continuing education to keep up with constantly changing technology. Your residential electrical contractor provides an important service to keep your home running safely and smoothly, so you want to hire the best possible person. Read this Homeowner's Guide to Hiring an Electrician to learn more before you hire.

The most important benefit of upgrading your electrical system is that your home will be protected from fire hazards caused by overloaded circuits. (Photo courtesy of Point Loma Electric)
Electrical

Don’t wait for sparks to fly; learn the right way to tell if your electric system is in need of an upgrade

Electrical work is extremely dangerous, so make sure you hire a licensed pro for work around the home.
Electrical

If you discover that you have an old Federal Pacific breaker box, a faulty circuit breaker or an outdated fuse box, how much can you expect to pay to have a qualified electrician replace it?

electrical wiring
Electrical

Electrical work requires trade knowledge and following code regulations in most states

outdoor lighting electricity
Lighting, Electrical

If you're experiencing electrical problems in your home or want to add capacity for new projects, consider hiring an electrician for these four services.

Angie's Answers

?
Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.
?

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

?

Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.

?

An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.

 

A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.

 

Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.

?

If you already have a fixture there, around $100 plus or minus about $30 if not over 7 or 30 pounds, or about $200-300 if weighs over about 7 or 30 pounds. The 7 or 30 pound ranges are dependent on whether the existing box is plastic or a standard Square-D type or equivalent metal one, because each type of box can only hold so much weight. If existing box is rated 70 pounds or more (ceiling fan or large chandelier rated) then the $100 range should do it regardless.

 

I am assuming when you say mini-pendants you meant from a single box if more than one. If you meant two separate by some feet, add probably about $100 more to add a second box, ASSUMING they will both be run off the same single switch.

 

IF you do NOT have a light fixture there now, then can run from $150-300 range if there is easy access from above (open attic) to $500 or more if has to tear into drywall to install wiring and box so you then have to get drywall contractor and painter in to repair the damages.

?

Electrical reviews in Jefferson City

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Rating
Jefferson City Electricians Provider Name Locked
suggested that since we had a 30 circuit panel, that we go up to a 40 circuit panel to give us enough room should we want to make changes to our home's electrical needs in the future and we agreed. He bought the necessary supplies and told us that a 50 circuit panel was on sale at a better price than a 40 circuit panel and saved us some money. In addition to replacing the burned switch and the electrical panel, he also took care of some other minor electrical needs we had. We were very pleased with
Jefferson City Electricians Provider Name Locked
and would definitely use him again in the future should the need arise.
- Carol K.
A

Rating
The staff from
Jefferson City Electricians Provider Name Locked
have always been incredibly professional and proficient in their work. They always know exactly what needs to be done when you explain your desires, concerns, and electrical problems!
Jefferson City Electricians Provider Name Locked
is always the first company I look to have my electrical problems solved.
- Laura W.
A

Rating
Installer was very professional. Arrived on time for the estimate as well as the scheduled work. He and his assistant cleaned up after themselves and left the premises in great condition. He told us to call if we found that the light was not working properly and he'd be back to adjust it. We are very pleased with the work performed.
- John S.
A

Rating
All went well. We like working with them. We are moving out of state and wish they would be there too. This was done as a pre-paid "deal" and it was well worth it.
- Peter B.
A

Rating
Jefferson City Electricians Provider Name Locked
was extremely prompt in responding to an initial email inquiry regarding types of lights and possible pricing.....and we scheduled a convenient time without having to wait forever to have six "smaller sized" recessed lights with a dimmer (wanted to go
Jefferson City Electricians Provider Name Locked
) in our family room. His communication was great~ although they were running a bit late, he contacted me to let me know and arrived soon thereafter. I found him and the gentleman he had working with him to be very friendly, informative and accommodating. I certainly felt comfortable with them in my home and within a couple hours, I had beautiful new lighting that changed the feel of the entire room! I have had many estimates, the pricing was reasonable, and the service was excellent! Upon finishing those lights, we scheduled another visit to install regular six inch recessed lights in the office and add a pendant light over the kitchen sink. The following week,
Jefferson City Electricians Provider Name Locked
showed up again, as promised and did another fantastic job with all the lights and drywall patching, etc. I will use him again, for sure, and feel confident having him and his crew in my home.
- Susan S.
A

Rating
Either way, he helped figure it all out in less than 25 min. I was paying for an hour so I asked to have my dimmer switch/fan switch combo replaced. Glad I did. He found a bad connection the owner prior to me attempted to rig and it was causing an arch and burning behind the switch plate.
Jefferson City Electricians Provider Name Locked
was very friendly and full of integrity and professionalism. Fair price and great work.
- Bruce V.
A

Rating
Arrived promptly, quickly found the problems and suggested solutions.
We chose to fixed all the problems and try to prevent future problems.
- Walter H.
A

Rating
It went great! They were super friendly and professional! They provided such good service, answered every question, explained what was going on, and easily negotiated with me on the price!
- Anna E.

All Electricians in Jefferson City, TN

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A1Roofman

PO Box 66

Accurate Mechanical

1140 Union Rd
Greeneville

Alexander Technical Resources

1263 Glenwood Ave SE

All Done Handyman & Remodeling

1144 cherry blossom ln.

Allied Contractors

155 limbo dr
Hillsboro

American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd
Memphis

APPALACHIAN LOG HOME

451 ROCKTOWN RD
Jefferson City

Ashton Britt Service Company Inc

115 W Old A J Hwy
Jefferson City

AVS Design Concepts Inc

18 Emory Pl
Knoxville

Barnes Electric

408 Cook Rd
Portland

Bizzy B Plumbing & Home Improvement

5845 Tallassee Rd.
Tallassee

BLUE SPRINGS TIRE & REPAIR

7155 BLUE SPRINGS PKWY
Mosheim

Brandon Eubanks Plumbing & Electrical

135 Church St
Hickory Valley

Bridge Water Construction

31 Hackett Hollow Lane
Pleasant Shade

CAM Electric

5988 Stanley Chapel Church Rd
Union City

COMER ELECTRIC CO

145 Cold Creek Dr.
Morristown

Covenant Heating & Cooling LLC

176 A Molly Walton Dr
Hendersonville

D & R Siding Co LLC

2320 Hwy 41A S
Shelbyville

David Adams Electric

7735 Hwy 57
Rossville

DirectBuy of Indianapolis

8450 Westfield Blvd

Easy Living Construction

70 Commercial Loop Way
Rossville

Ellenburf's Plumbing Electric

195 Granby Ln
Harrogate

Exquisite Designs

47332 Sterdley Falls

Extreme Lawn Care

85 Wyndelake Cv
Jackson

FES Security

P O Box 4134
Maryville

H&H Home Improvements

507 Prichard St
Lebanon

Handyman Ken Can

137 Cypress Lane
Dresden

Hughes Brothers Investment Group

704 Kelly St
Morristown

J.H.M Enterprises

208 Red Oak Dr
Waverly

JR's Small engine repair

808 childress ave

JS Builders

1008 Gists Creek Rd
Sevierville

KG Construction LLC

427 Cumberland Hills Dr
Hendersonville

LB Affordable Construction

911 Hollywood Dr
Jackson

Leslie's Roofing LLC

6220 Falcon Ln

MidSouth Construction LLC

1619 Elm Hill Pike
Nashville

Pape's Handyman/Remodeling Co LLC

PO Box 1454 209 W Main St
Dandridge

Power Solutions

2409 Lebanon Rd

R & K Home Improvements

2070 Wild Cherry Ct
Lewisburg

Rays Electric

3949 Pearl Valley Rd
Sevierville

Real Home Theaters

376 Commerce Street
Nashville

REED'S REMODELING & CONSTRUCTION

2417 CENTRAL BLVD
Murfreesboro

Reliable Building Services Inc

511 Park St
Greeneville

Shelter Home Maintenance

9405 Nashville Hwy
Mcminnville

Simon & Simon Construction

437 Jones Rd
Union City

Stinnett Heating & Air

833 W Hwy 25/70
Newport

Super Man

3540 Price

The Service Company

2103 GRIFFEN TOWN RD
White Bluff

ThompsonMay Electric

1541 Bruce dr.

Valley Building Supply, Inc

2110 Hwy 11 N
Sweetwater

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

WEBB ELECTRICAL CO

PO Box 70866

Westmorland Elec Htg & Clg

1221 George Malone Rd
Greeneville

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Jefferson City Zip Codes

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