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Over 7,183 reviews for
Hendersonville Insulation Contractors from people just like you.

"Done over 2 days. Each team of guys per day were great. Professional, timely, hard-working, efficient, and also kind (a big plus for me), They explained everything....(even" the how-does-it-work questions I asked from pure curiosity). The administrative team/office -- also great and responsive. I'd highly recommend them!

-Stephanie M.

"The folks at
did a great job for me and my mom. I contacted
, and explained to him that I own the house my mom lives" in, that I live out of town, and that I need to pay for the service. While this doesn't sound like a complicated thing, so many companies have a hard time with it.
was great. He said "no problem." We discussed the issues we were having, he weighed the pros and cons of the different options, then guided me to the best deal for the option we selected.
followed up immediately with my mom by arranging a time that was convenient for her, showed up on time, and completed the job with a very pleasant attitude and in a professional manner. After completing the job,
followed up with me to let me know how it went, as well as what they learned and what they did. Over all, I give
two thumbs up!

-Mary F.

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Local Articles in Hendersonville

Avoid Ice Dams With Proper Attic Insulation

An ice dam can cause serious problems to your roof without proper insulation.

attic access door able to convert to room
Remodeling - General, Insulation

Wish you had more room in your home? Attics have room for you to convert into living space.

By properly insulating your attic you can keep warm air from escaping and save money on your energy bills. (Photo courtesy of Vinay S. of North Brunswick, New Jersey)

Hot air rises … but good insulation can keep your energy costs from doing the same thing.

Better air quality, quieter living spaces, comfort and better health are all reasons to reconsider your insulation choices. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Roseanne J. of Seattle)

Not just for new construction, learn how foam insulation can be placed inside existing walls to make your home more comfortable.

While traditional fiberglass insulation is affordable and efficient, injection foam insulation can offer even more benefits. (Photo by Summer Galyan)

Insulation isn't sexy, but it can keep you cool at night.

Angie's Answers


If you go the Better Business Bureau website you can see that the company has only had two complaints in the last 18 months and that they have both been resolved.  The company has an A+ rating.  This is not something you can buy.


There are genuine reviews on many 3rd party online review sites including AngiesList and the Better Business Bureau.  Simply do a Google search for "Smart Energy Today Reviews".


Sol Blanket Insulation acts as a radiant barrier, insulation and a vapor barrier.  It is not intended to replace traditional insulation but in fact compliments it and adds to it's ability to keep cool/hot air (depending on the season) in the home when the envelope of the home is properly sealed.  


Every attic is different and there are many other components that must be considered.  You mentioned an attic fan as well.  The heat that is radiated away from the ceiling by the Sol-Blanket Insulation is pushed out of the attic with an attic fan.  The US Department of Energy states that radiant barriers do work and suggest they be installed by professionals.


As with any product by any company if the product is not installed properly and other factors (attic fan, caulking and sealing, etc...) are not addressed then it will not be as effective.


A couple of comments about what Jim said:

1) Regarding type of insulation, in cold winter environments: Cellulose and fiberglass are actually about comparable in R value when installed - blown in cellulose runs from 3.2-3.8 R value, fiberglass batt 2.9-4.3 R value depending on manufacturer and whether hig-density or low density, high-efficiency or standard, according to official Department of Energy publications. Measured values in attic test cases, in areas with a true winter, after 10 years showed a decrease from 3.4 (in the test case) down to 2.1 for cellulose, and 3.5 to 3.3 for fiberglass batt, due to packing or matting. In an attic environment, there WILL be condensation or frost on the insulation at some point during the year (assuming an area with true winters) and in highly insulated houses commonly for a substantial time period each winter. Fiberglass packs down slightly from that weight but mostly rebounds, cellulose packs down and mats and does not substantially recover, so over the years cellulose loses 1/3 to close to 1/2 its insulation value, fiberglass about 10%.

2) a note on radiation barriers attached to the bottom of the rafters - there are a lot of installers and homeowners making two major mistakes with this product that can cause major trouble: First, be sure to terminate it short of the eave openings. I have seen cases where it was carried all the way out to the fascia board, thereby blocking all airflow on the underside of the roof. Even carrying it all the way to the eaves along the bottom of the rafters will block off ventilation to the main attic area. You have to leave the air space between the rafters open to full airflow from the soffit/eave area ot the ridge vent. Second, do NOT run it continuous from eave to eave across the full width of the attic - leave a gap about a foot wide under the ridge vents so warm and moist air in the attic can vent through the ridge vent. Closing the ridge vent area off with the radiant barrier effectively puts a vapor barrier around the main attic area, causing retention of the moisture which WILL accumulate there, promoting mold.


Obviously this is not a timely response to the initial question. However, for those who may be reading these answers at a later time, a couple of added thoughts:

1) the radiant barrier being discussed is basically heavy-duty metal foil or metallized surface on a plastic sheet, intended to reflect RADIATED heat (infrared radiation - think heat light, or heat you can feel at a distance radiated from a fireplace), the same way a mirror reflects light. Radiated heat is how a standard oven broils and how steam and hot water baseboard heat predominately work.

2) you generally should do NOT place a radiant barrier over the insulation that lies between and over the joists in a normal attic, especially in a region where the attic temperature can frequently reach condensation temperature (below about 45-50 degrees) - it may reflect back some of the house heat that is coming up from the house, but by destroying most of the temperature gradient from the house to the attic air destroys much of the driving force that moves moisture to the attic air and subsequent venting. Between that greater heat and the fact the barrier is also a moisture barrier, that makes a perfect condition for mold and rot in your insulation and attic wood, and has become quite an issue in energy upgraded homes because of retrofits that cut off airflow outside the insulation, but do not cut off the moisture source leaking thorough from the house. The proper and ONLY place for a vapor barrier in a normal attic insulation system is on the pressurized and normal warm, humid side of the insulation zone - directly above the ceiling drywall in the top floor, fastened to the UNDERSIDE of the ceiling joists or trusses, NOT anywhere above that. Perforated barriers are supposed to reduce this tendency, but the perforation area percentage is so small that typically they still act as a vapor varrier, just not a totally effective one.

3) radiant barriers reflect radiated heat ewith up to 99% efficiency but have basically zero resistance to CONDUCTION (body to body heat transfer at points of contact - think heat transfer from your warm hand to a frozen cold drink can, or hot pavement heat transfer to the bottom of your feet) - so there needs to be an air gap between the radiant barrier and the hot item passing the heat to it, otherwise the heat will just pass through it by conduction. Therefore, applying it directly to the sheathing (above or below) or manufacturing it directly on the surface of the sheathing defeats its purpose, even though this is commonly done.

4) there is a lot of discussion, particularly in the professional design community, about attic radiant heat barrier effectiveness and problems. Because they are being installed on the bottom of the sheathing or underside of roof joists, they act as a heat trap for the energy being conducted through the roof which would normally radiate into the attic air or be transferred by CONVECTION (fluid flow heat transfer) to the attic air, and be vented through roof vents, ridge vents, gable vents, etc. By trapping that heat, they are causing the underside of the shingles and particularly the felt and sheathing to get a lot hotter than they otherside would, essentially changing it from a system where the shingle top surface might reach 120-180 F and the inside surface of the sheathing about 80-140F in the summer, to making the entire roof system equal to the outside surface temperature. This causes more rapid shingle deterioration and cracking, and makes the felt or plastic moisture barrier under the shingles brittle and subject to failure.

Also, any moisture above the radiant barrier (from roof leaks or humid air coming into the area) is prevented from evaporating by the attic airflow which would normally remove it, so it starts acting like a steamer. I have seen both wood and metal lofts and attics become a major mold farm in months because of this effect, and a couple of roofs which started sagging due to rotted sheathing within 2 years of reroofing with tightly adhered radiant barrier. Some radiant barriers are vapor-permeable to reduce the moisture issue, many are not, but few actually are effective in letting moisture freely escape.

Having seen these products in use, and having analyzed and specified building products for use from the Middle East to the Arctic for decades, and having a Masters in Arctic Engineering (a degree predominately in energy conservation and heat flow), my personal opinion is that these radiant barriers will be banned by code within 10-15 years for unheated (so-called "cold" roofs) roofs, because they just do not use the principles of thermodynamics correctly. For more info on this issue Google the following search phrase  - moisture trapping by radiant attic barriers       and read the government (not the manufacturer) literature on the issue.

5) Unfortunately, the right way to handle this issue is to put the radiant surface on the OUTSIDE of the house - by using reflective materials on the roofing material. This is already done with flat roofs, house trailers, and industrial structures by spraying with alumiunum paint, and a few brands offer reflective aggregate shingles that are slightly more reflective and radiant than normal shingles. People obviously do not like this reflective surface from an aesthetic standpoint, though with solar cells coming into more general use this may soon be more widely adopted. The idea should be to keep the solar energy from penetrating into the building envelope at all, not try to re-reflect it away after it has penetrated throguh the roof system.

The sprayed-in foam has a couple of issues you need to be aware of:

6) it needs to be the low-pressure expanding type mixed for use around window frames, as fully expanding foam can bow joists or trusses and pop drywall ceilings free as it expands, and non-expanding foam actually shrinks as it cures, leaving gaps for air and heat flow alongside the ceiling joists.

7) being closed-cell it is essentially impervious to moisture, so the vapor barrier on the house side has to be EXCELLENT (incuding sealingof all penetrations), or it will trap household moisture escaping into the attic and promote mold and rot in the ceiling drywall and joists.

8) it tends to bleed chemical fumes into the house for a long period of time (can be noticeable for years), which may be objectionable to some people from an odor or environmental standpoint, and especially should be considered if any residents have severe allergy issues or respiratory problems.

9) I emphatically recommend AGAINST use of sprayed-in foam between ceiling joists or truss members in any area that can have cold attic air that could cause moisture condensation in the insulation, though this is probably not a significant problem where you live, assuming your Dallas is the city in Texas. For essentially year-around air-conditioned homes in hot climates, the problem can actually be condensation of attic air moisture on and in the colder ceiling surface insulation and on cold attic runs of air conditioned air, so attic ventilation becomes a critical issue to remove the moisture before it condenses.

In summary, having seen an awful lot of attic moisture and thermal problems, my personal recommendation would be to ensure excellent sealing of the house from the attic, use normal UNFACED fiberglass insulation, and instead of a radiant barrier ensure adequate full-attic ventilation. If you decide to got with a radiant barrier, then I would recommend a perforated one, sloping up towards the sides a foot or two and stopping a foot or so clear at the sides so moist air under it can escape to the roof joist spaces and be vented from the attic. I have seen this done several times with a fine nylon net strung above the insulation in the attic, supporting the barrier, resulting in something very similar to the double-roof system used in bedouin tents, where airflow between the two layers keep the hot air away from the living space.

Steve made a good point.  Also, while it isn't required to remove the old insulation you can check the ductwork, wiring, etc. with the old stuff removed,  You can also spray foam around all openings and holes in wall top plates to better seal your home as Steve was pointing out.  My concern is the potential for mold spores you mentioned in your question.  If you suspect there are any get a good company in to remove the old and clean the attic.  Another concern is asbestos.  Your home is old enough you could have it in there and that's worse than mold if released into the air.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services

A moisture barrier has to be on the warm side ie towards the heated side.  Most people would not install a moisture barrier in your situation.  (They also sell a paint that you can use on your interior ceiling? as a moisture barrier).  Rather most homeowners would hire an insulation contractor to blow a cap over the existing insulation bringing it up to your areas reccomended levels,,Your power company can tell you the level, I would guess R 40.  What you use is up to your wallet, the best is a spray foam that can be applied to the ceiling or over the whole shebang.  Being a bit of a miser I would trot on down to my local big box store and buy a truckload of cellulose and get a free blower for I and a friend to self insulte.  Big box= Menards, Lowes etc.  Cellulose= ground up paper treated with boron for insect control and fireproofing.  It has a high R value and will stop moving air loss from the home. Before you cap current mostly emply attic is ideal time to take sealant to any openings in the attic floor,  like pocket doors, canister lights electircal wires and close off the air leaks from inside.  If foaming skip this.  Hot air rises so you save yourself a ton air sealing the home.

An attic radiant barrier is also a possiblity see my blog for nifty results on it.

Jim Casper Old Energy Conservation Guru

ps moving existing insulation use a plastic rake


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Insulation reviews in Hendersonville


They did a good job. They prepped the space by covering walls and floor with plastic sheeting, then came back the next day to spray the foam, and the following day they returned to cut off excess foam and clean up. Sotiris was friendly and easy to work with and always showed up when he said he would.
We had a small glitch when we discovered our main circuit breaker was too small (60 amps) to run his equipment. We were able to get an electrician to come out the same day to upgrade the breaker to 100 amps, and Sotiris came back the next day to spray the foam. Each visit took about a half day: half day to prep, half day to set up and spray, half day to clean up. Finished job looks good and their cleanup was thorough.
I don't know how their pricing compares to others because we didn't get any other quotes, so I gave a rating of "N/A" to price only because I have no basis for knowing how his price compares to others. But I would recommend based on quality of the work.
- Suzanne S.

Before installing siding
Hendersonville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
blew insulation through the exterior walls into my wall cavities. It went great. They added a ton of insulation. I can feel the difference in my house already. A little messy job, but they did clean up well. The job took 1 day.
Hendersonville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
did a great job.
- Peggy M.

Hendersonville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
, the owner, came personally to the house to bid the job and follow-up at the conclusion. I got 4 total bids from spray foam companies in the region all according to my specifications of removing the blown in cellulose and spraying 5" of closed foam.
Hendersonville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
was the most competitive
We have a fairly large home with a substantial amount of roofing so the job took 3 days to complete and was an expensive project. All the crews were very punctual, courteous, communicative, and careful with our home. They were very cautious in preventing this messy job from getting around to other parts of the house. Our crew chief (
Hendersonville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
) was always responsive to our questions and kept us well informed all along the way. They cleaned up after themselves each day. The scale of the job and my choice of closed cell foam at 5" thickness meant it was a pricey project but I'm very pleased with the job they did. I cannot stress enough how courteous and respectful they were of us and our home. I can see why they have a strong reputation. I'd use them again. We are pleased with the results.
- Kevin C.

Hendersonville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
was a no show for our estimate appointment to replace the insulation in our crawl space. he didn't call to say he would be late. We called him after he missed our appointment time. He said the weather and traffic was bad and he would be about 2 hours late. We had another appointment scheduled for that time so we cancelled.
- Ken D.

They were on time, very professional, and very clean. They were able to get in an out in a timely fashion, and worked around our schedule. My children came home and didn't notice anything our of place except to find a much warmer home. We immediately noticed the difference it made. Then the summer heat was less of an issue in our century-old house.
This was one of Angie's deals. It was a great bargain.
- ErinBeth D.

Went very well . They showed up on time first thing in morning with a couple dozen guys got right to work. Was like a well oiled machine and were all cleaned up and gone by 12.30 pm And
Hendersonville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
Theofanopoulos was there to help through process.

except when all done no final walk through. When i voices concerns sent pics and forman called me on phone only after
Hendersonville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
called him. Said he was to far away to come back on way to another install.
Everything was great till end I just feel they dropped ball at end of project!!!
- william T.

Overall went well. The first time he was scheduled to come he was unable to make it and didn't notify me until the night before via email. The service was great when we finally agreed on a date. I wasn't happy about tripping to get sold items that I had no use for.
- Josephine A.

The crew arrived right within the time frame they estimated. They had come directly from another job in the neighborhood, and I could tell they had been working, but were clean and presentable. They introduced themselves, were friendly and courteous, but got right to work.
They put down drop-cloths to make a pathway along the floor everywhere they walked. They sprayed the foam insulation in the crawl space against the exterior walls and rim joist of my split-level home. They insulated from the underside of my floor, right down to the plastic sheeting on the crawlspace floor. I noticed acoustic differences to the living space immediately; I also noticed the smell of the foam curing. The crew lead assured me that the smell would dissipate throughout the day, which it did. The space feels much less “connected” to the outdoors than it used to, and we are really looking forward to feeling the difference this winter!
There was not much to the clean-up, so overall it was a great experience. I wasn’t entirely sure what to expect, and maybe I just got lucky, but I was pleased that I didn’t hear any foul language and saw no smoking from any of the crew members. The most memorable moment for me personally, was when crewman
Hendersonville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
, who did the spraying—thanked me for “letting him spray foam” in my crawl space. His
Hendersonville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
was so genuinely grateful and sincere, that it just kind of struck me. I
Hendersonville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
’t believe you can fake that kind of appreciation… certainly a dedicated employee. That’s exactly the kind of personality you want to have working for you.
We will definitely use
Hendersonville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
again on the next project.

- Julie P.

Insulation Contractors in Hendersonville, TN

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A-1 Insulation

Po Box 486
Ashland City

Ablend Roofing

628 Transit Ave

Above All Leveling

10420 Bromeliad Rd

Action TN

6641 Upton Ln

Adams Construction

110 Circle Dr

Advanced Crawlspace Solutions

125 Greystone Drive

Advanced Solutions

1090 Charlie Reed Rd

AE Roofing & Exteriors

763 Halltown Rd

Affordable Heat and Air Service

3306 Overhill Ct

All American Painting GP

PO Box 254

Alpha Absolute LLC

821 General George Patton Rd

American Home Design Inc

880 Conference Dr

American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd

American Integrity Construction

4029 Brimestone Wy


5969 Woodbury Pike



Apex Energy Solutions of Tennessee

5010 Linbar Dr

Armor Roofing

533 Church Street Suite 107

Arrow Roofing and Solar

8273 Blankenship Rd

Attic Barrier Insulation

141 Elnora Drive

Attic Insulators

217 S Maple St

Attic Wrangler

1076 Robertson Road

Attics to Floors and More

3728 priest lake dr

AYS Construction Services L.L.C.

300 Aaronwood Court
Old Hickory

B & C Home Improvement

2740 Painted Pony Dr

B & R Properties LLC

2255 Memorial Blvd

Bentley's Heating and Air

109 Hartmann Dr

Bill's Contracting & Remodeling

1043 Hogan Branch Rd

Blondell Building and Consulting

187 S Palmers Chapel Rd
White House

Bryan's handyman service

231 Bonnafield Dr



CCC Roofing

486 Bell Rd

Centurion Stone & Exteriors

50 Van Buren St

Cone Contractors

815 Mt Vernon rd

Cornerstone Garage Door Company LLC

3397 Old Franklin Rd
Cane Ridge

Cre8ive Construction

1316 8th Street
Old Hickory

D. Reynolds Construction

125 Southside Park Dr.

D.A.S Building and Remodeling

2505 Brittany Dr

Davidson Roofing & Construction

1133 Harold Dr

DeMoss Renovations

7595 DeMoss Lane

Derryberry's Heat and Air

PO Box 1551

DHC Comfort Inc

PO Box 1329
White House

Diamond Plate Construction

6264 Pettus Road

Dillards Renovations and Repair

4729 Hunters Crossing Dr
Old Hickory

Double H Home Solutions

729 Hallcrest Ct.



Dudco Vinyl Siding Inc

324 Meadowlawn Dr

Durante Home Exteriors

2512 Commerce Sq W.

E3 Innovate LLC

909 E Trinity Lane

Eco Air Heating & Cooling

235 Noah Dr

Elan', LLC

PO Box 698
Old Hickory

English Home Improvements Inc

6320 Hwy 41A
Pleasant View

Exterior Energy Solutions LLC

205 McGavock Pike



Foley Remodeling

112 Midtown Court

Forst Builders LLC

116 Gilbert Dr

Fresh Start Restoration & Cleaning

157 Space Park South



Fusion Investments Corporation

2206 Dortch Ave

G&B Carpentry

171 Factory St

Ginn General Contractor

2216 Centerpoint

Goddard Construction Co LLC

9695 Lebanon Rd
Mount Juliet


12000 Terrapin St

H&H Home Improvements

507 Prichard St

Handi Andy

160 Groves Dr

HandyPros Property Services

113 Plumlee Rd.

Hensley's Heating & Cooling Inc.

2401 Clarksville Pike Ste.110

Insurance Contractors Inc


Iron Home Consruction

320 Issac Drive

Jackson's Maintenance Service

6304 Robertson Rd

Jerry's Home Repair Service

PO Box 732
Ashland City

KG Construction LLC

427 Cumberland Hills Dr

Kimbro Air

134 Volunteer Dr

Landmark Services of Tennessee

PO Box 158825

LBHI Services

109 Nokes Dr

Lee Company

331 Mallory Station Rd.


1635 Woodard Ave Apt A

Leslie's Roofing LLC

6220 Falcon Ln

living Treasures

3226 Dark Woods Dr.

Lowry Roofing Inc

2550 Meridian BLVD


White House

Mid State Air Conditioning & Heating

7102 Lakeview Dr.

Millennium Roofing & Construction LLC

PO Box 331594

Montgomery & Associates LLC

1730 General George Patton Drive #212

Moore's Remodeling & Home Repair

P.O. Box 102
Whites Creek



Motor Dynamics of Tennessee, LLC

242 West Main Street PMB #137

Mr. Roof of Nashville

3536 Central Pike

Myatt Construction LLC

165 Belle Forest Cir # A

Nashville Home Energy

PO Box 92253

Nashville Urban Contracting

1308 Old Gratton Rd

New Life Renovations And Building

7006 Zither Lane
La Vergne

Nicholson Home Services


Northwest Exterminating - Nashville

3185 Franklin Road

On Time Improvements

3184 Ewingdale Dr

One Call Home Team LLC

242 W Main St

Parker's Heating Cooling & Plumbing

107 Threet Industrial Rd

Prestige Roofing Company

1871 Slaughter Road

Pro Maintnance Plus

845 Netherlands Dr.

Prodigy Roofing

715 Rogues Fork Rd

Professional Roofers Inc

321 Billingsly Ct

Property Services LLC

920 W College St

PuroClean Emergency Property Recovery

2620 Locust Street

R & D Pro Drywall

1027 George Boyd Rd
Ashland City

Rapid Restoration, LLC

3610 Kelton Jackson Rd

Reliant Home Services

1019 Longhunter Chase Drive
Spring Hill

Republic Roofing & Restoration LLC

91 Peyton Pkwy


7103 Tom Jones Ln

Roof Roof Nashville

2250 Southgate Blvd

Roscoe Brown, Inc

410 South Roosevelt St.

Roscoe Brown, Inc.

959 N Thompson Ln

Roscoe Brown, Inc.

807 Poplar Ave

S&G Roofing


Sealtite Roofing & Restoration

2610 Winford Ave

Shingle Works of Nashville

PO Box 210268

Snoopy's Construction

3336 Jansing Drive

Soundrite-Acoustics, Inc.

209 S. Stephanie Street

South Wind Construction

5559 Old Millington Rd

Southern Strong Roofing

424 Church St

Springfield Glass & Exteriors

15 N. Walnut St.

Stellar Building Group

5915 Robertson Ave

Steve Wilson's Home Repair & Maintenance

161 New Shackle Island Rd.

Sumner Roofing & Exteriors

115 Powell Dr

Tennessee Contracting Services Inc

127 Powell Dr

Tennessee Craftsmen LLC

PO Box 1173

Tennessee Foundation Services

8421 Horton Highway
College Grove

Tennessee Valley Air

P.O Box 386
Spring Hill


803 Louisville Hwy

Tony's Heating and Air

120 North Electra St.

Tru Solutions, LLC

2910 Sidco Drive

Universal Solutions

788 Dejarnette Ln


12637 S 265 W Suite 100

Welsh's Home Repair


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