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Over 4,158 reviews for
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A
"Hot and Cold water pipes insulated in the
. This company performs a 10Pt.
inspection for mold, fungi, termites," structure damage and vents. As a victim of Super Storm Sandy, I needed mold remediation both in the
and garage....after meeting with many companies I chose
.
the owner was very clear as to what he felt needed to be done and provided in writing each service and cost for each...not all lumped together as most vendors presented.
's prices were not the cheapest but they were very reasonable and comparable to other vendors. The remediation had to be done quickly and
made sure he provided all services timely and very professionally. He provides pictures of before and after for all his work another excellent service. As a retired, single women, it's very comforting having a reputable company to work with and an owner that responds immediately. I would highly recommend this company to all of your subscribers with absolutely no reservations.

-Bernadette R.

A
"Very straightforward and easy to deal with. They were ready to go when we needed them, and they did the job fast. The price was excellent as well. We would recommend and use again.

-David R.

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Local Articles in Germantown

snowy house

The Angie's List Guide to Winter Maintenance

It's the time of year when the winter weather can take a toll. Follow this winter maintenance checklist to protect your home, your car and your health.

Without proper insulation and venting in your attic, icicles can form on your eaves, leading to a damaging ice dam on your roof, says Neubecker. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Donna B. of Mendota Heights, Minn.)

Avoid ice dams with proper attic insulation

Do you have icicles forming on your eaves and gutters and ice collecting on your roof? An ice dam can cause serious problems without proper insulation.

Even in cold-weather climates, homes often lack insulation between the finished, occupied portion of the home and the ground. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Paul B. of Bluffton, South Carolina)
Insulation, Energy Efficiency Auditing

Exterior foundation insulation is an often overlooked home improvement. It can help stop drafts, lower energy bills and keep your house warmer during winter.

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Contractors say homeowners with this trait are the most satisfied with home improvement projects.

With insulation technology always advancing, you’ve got choices to make when it comes to the material you pick, says Lindus. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Lynn M. of Columbus, Georgia)
Insulation

Thinking of installing your own insulation? One highly rated provider shares six things that every homeowner should be aware of before attempting to DIY.

Before winter arrives, ensure your attic is sealed properly and has both adequate insulation and ventilation. (Photo courtesy of member Kitty Jones of Columbus, Ohio)
Insulation, Heating & A/C, Roofing

A comfortable, energy efficient home starts at the top. Those hot spots and cold rooms may relate to problems in your attic. Beyond adding insulation, what's a homeowner to do?

Angie's Answers

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Google and read about it. Some people swear by it, though their comments sound suspiciously like they were all written by the same person. Some call it a rip off - expecially people paying $6000-8000 for what would normally be a $1,000 range job.

I would not call it an outright fraud as they are providing a product that has some potential merit in the right application, but from a technical standpoint it sounds suspicious. They claim a 1/4 mat with doiuble sided foil facing is R-16 insulation. This at least is deceptive - they appear to be saying its radiant heat reflective properties give the equivalent of R-16 insulation, because there is NO WAY 1/4" foam is going to yield R-16 in an ASTM test for insulation, which is a thermal conductivity test. Would be lucky to get R-2 or so as an insulator, so this is basically a radiant barrier. Competing products from national brandname manufacturers list R value of 3.8-4.2 for one inch mats, so the equivalent for this 1/4" mat would be expected to be in the R1 range.

Properly installed, with ventilation on BOTH sides, it can be slightly effective in reducing radiant heat loss from the house, and more effective in reflecting heat in the attic from coming down into the house. However, from a thermodynamic and vapor control standpoint, they are trouble unless their integration into the house envelope is designed VERY carefully. Short explanation:

1) for keeping heat in the house, if they are installed above the attic floor insulation they can slightly limit air loss through the ceiling, and reflect radiant heat back down, resulting in warmer insulation, hence a warmer ceiling - but not as marked an improvement as added insulation would give.

2) for keeping attic heat from getting into the ceiling, they do reflect back a good portion of the radiant heat coming from the roof sheathing. This reduces the attic floor insulation surface temperature, so can reduce air conditioning cost. it does increase teh temperature in the attic, which can be very bad for support timbers and the roof sheathing.

3) the worst thing about how this type of foil radiant barrier is used is that, unless it has free air space on both sides, it acts as a vapor barrier. In the typicall application as a blanket over attic floor insulation, it traps any moisture coming up from the house, and can cause mildew and rot, especially in climates where the outdoor temperature gets quite cold.

4) the attic fans are generally a last resort measure - the normal house does much better, at no energy cost, using ridge vents with adequate eave openings to provide ventilation and cooling in the attic.

5) their effectiveness in winter heat diminshes rapidly with time - tests of attic radiant barriers show they lose about half their effectvieness within 5 years, because even a light dust coating greatly reduces their ability to reflect radiant heat, and greatly increases the absorption of heat from the hot air above them.

6) pay attention to cost - from what I see, their installed cost is many times the cost of normal insualtion or radiant barrier placement.

I would say, in summary, buyer beware, and I would be inherently leery of a product being sold the same way timeshares and "secret" moneymaking schemes are.

?

Obviously this is not a timely response to the initial question. However, for those who may be reading these answers at a later time, a couple of added thoughts:

1) the radiant barrier being discussed is basically heavy-duty metal foil or metallized surface on a plastic sheet, intended to reflect RADIATED heat (infrared radiation - think heat light, or heat you can feel at a distance radiated from a fireplace), the same way a mirror reflects light. Radiated heat is how a standard oven broils and how steam and hot water baseboard heat predominately work.

2) you generally should do NOT place a radiant barrier over the insulation that lies between and over the joists in a normal attic, especially in a region where the attic temperature can frequently reach condensation temperature (below about 45-50 degrees) - it may reflect back some of the house heat that is coming up from the house, but by destroying most of the temperature gradient from the house to the attic air destroys much of the driving force that moves moisture to the attic air and subsequent venting. Between that greater heat and the fact the barrier is also a moisture barrier, that makes a perfect condition for mold and rot in your insulation and attic wood, and has become quite an issue in energy upgraded homes because of retrofits that cut off airflow outside the insulation, but do not cut off the moisture source leaking thorough from the house. The proper and ONLY place for a vapor barrier in a normal attic insulation system is on the pressurized and normal warm, humid side of the insulation zone - directly above the ceiling drywall in the top floor, fastened to the UNDERSIDE of the ceiling joists or trusses, NOT anywhere above that. Perforated barriers are supposed to reduce this tendency, but the perforation area percentage is so small that typically they still act as a vapor varrier, just not a totally effective one.

3) radiant barriers reflect radiated heat ewith up to 99% efficiency but have basically zero resistance to CONDUCTION (body to body heat transfer at points of contact - think heat transfer from your warm hand to a frozen cold drink can, or hot pavement heat transfer to the bottom of your feet) - so there needs to be an air gap between the radiant barrier and the hot item passing the heat to it, otherwise the heat will just pass through it by conduction. Therefore, applying it directly to the sheathing (above or below) or manufacturing it directly on the surface of the sheathing defeats its purpose, even though this is commonly done.

4) there is a lot of discussion, particularly in the professional design community, about attic radiant heat barrier effectiveness and problems. Because they are being installed on the bottom of the sheathing or underside of roof joists, they act as a heat trap for the energy being conducted through the roof which would normally radiate into the attic air or be transferred by CONVECTION (fluid flow heat transfer) to the attic air, and be vented through roof vents, ridge vents, gable vents, etc. By trapping that heat, they are causing the underside of the shingles and particularly the felt and sheathing to get a lot hotter than they otherside would, essentially changing it from a system where the shingle top surface might reach 120-180 F and the inside surface of the sheathing about 80-140F in the summer, to making the entire roof system equal to the outside surface temperature. This causes more rapid shingle deterioration and cracking, and makes the felt or plastic moisture barrier under the shingles brittle and subject to failure.

Also, any moisture above the radiant barrier (from roof leaks or humid air coming into the area) is prevented from evaporating by the attic airflow which would normally remove it, so it starts acting like a steamer. I have seen both wood and metal lofts and attics become a major mold farm in months because of this effect, and a couple of roofs which started sagging due to rotted sheathing within 2 years of reroofing with tightly adhered radiant barrier. Some radiant barriers are vapor-permeable to reduce the moisture issue, many are not, but few actually are effective in letting moisture freely escape.

Having seen these products in use, and having analyzed and specified building products for use from the Middle East to the Arctic for decades, and having a Masters in Arctic Engineering (a degree predominately in energy conservation and heat flow), my personal opinion is that these radiant barriers will be banned by code within 10-15 years for unheated (so-called "cold" roofs) roofs, because they just do not use the principles of thermodynamics correctly. For more info on this issue Google the following search phrase  - moisture trapping by radiant attic barriers       and read the government (not the manufacturer) literature on the issue.

5) Unfortunately, the right way to handle this issue is to put the radiant surface on the OUTSIDE of the house - by using reflective materials on the roofing material. This is already done with flat roofs, house trailers, and industrial structures by spraying with alumiunum paint, and a few brands offer reflective aggregate shingles that are slightly more reflective and radiant than normal shingles. People obviously do not like this reflective surface from an aesthetic standpoint, though with solar cells coming into more general use this may soon be more widely adopted. The idea should be to keep the solar energy from penetrating into the building envelope at all, not try to re-reflect it away after it has penetrated throguh the roof system.

The sprayed-in foam has a couple of issues you need to be aware of:

6) it needs to be the low-pressure expanding type mixed for use around window frames, as fully expanding foam can bow joists or trusses and pop drywall ceilings free as it expands, and non-expanding foam actually shrinks as it cures, leaving gaps for air and heat flow alongside the ceiling joists.

7) being closed-cell it is essentially impervious to moisture, so the vapor barrier on the house side has to be EXCELLENT (incuding sealingof all penetrations), or it will trap household moisture escaping into the attic and promote mold and rot in the ceiling drywall and joists.

8) it tends to bleed chemical fumes into the house for a long period of time (can be noticeable for years), which may be objectionable to some people from an odor or environmental standpoint, and especially should be considered if any residents have severe allergy issues or respiratory problems.

9) I emphatically recommend AGAINST use of sprayed-in foam between ceiling joists or truss members in any area that can have cold attic air that could cause moisture condensation in the insulation, though this is probably not a significant problem where you live, assuming your Dallas is the city in Texas. For essentially year-around air-conditioned homes in hot climates, the problem can actually be condensation of attic air moisture on and in the colder ceiling surface insulation and on cold attic runs of air conditioned air, so attic ventilation becomes a critical issue to remove the moisture before it condenses.

In summary, having seen an awful lot of attic moisture and thermal problems, my personal recommendation would be to ensure excellent sealing of the house from the attic, use normal UNFACED fiberglass insulation, and instead of a radiant barrier ensure adequate full-attic ventilation. If you decide to got with a radiant barrier, then I would recommend a perforated one, sloping up towards the sides a foot or two and stopping a foot or so clear at the sides so moist air under it can escape to the roof joist spaces and be vented from the attic. I have seen this done several times with a fine nylon net strung above the insulation in the attic, supporting the barrier, resulting in something very similar to the double-roof system used in bedouin tents, where airflow between the two layers keep the hot air away from the living space.

?

A couple of comments about what Jim said:

1) Regarding type of insulation, in cold winter environments: Cellulose and fiberglass are actually about comparable in R value when installed - blown in cellulose runs from 3.2-3.8 R value, fiberglass batt 2.9-4.3 R value depending on manufacturer and whether hig-density or low density, high-efficiency or standard, according to official Department of Energy publications. Measured values in attic test cases, in areas with a true winter, after 10 years showed a decrease from 3.4 (in the test case) down to 2.1 for cellulose, and 3.5 to 3.3 for fiberglass batt, due to packing or matting. In an attic environment, there WILL be condensation or frost on the insulation at some point during the year (assuming an area with true winters) and in highly insulated houses commonly for a substantial time period each winter. Fiberglass packs down slightly from that weight but mostly rebounds, cellulose packs down and mats and does not substantially recover, so over the years cellulose loses 1/3 to close to 1/2 its insulation value, fiberglass about 10%.

2) a note on radiation barriers attached to the bottom of the rafters - there are a lot of installers and homeowners making two major mistakes with this product that can cause major trouble: First, be sure to terminate it short of the eave openings. I have seen cases where it was carried all the way out to the fascia board, thereby blocking all airflow on the underside of the roof. Even carrying it all the way to the eaves along the bottom of the rafters will block off ventilation to the main attic area. You have to leave the air space between the rafters open to full airflow from the soffit/eave area ot the ridge vent. Second, do NOT run it continuous from eave to eave across the full width of the attic - leave a gap about a foot wide under the ridge vents so warm and moist air in the attic can vent through the ridge vent. Closing the ridge vent area off with the radiant barrier effectively puts a vapor barrier around the main attic area, causing retention of the moisture which WILL accumulate there, promoting mold.

?
Steve made a good point.  Also, while it isn't required to remove the old insulation you can check the ductwork, wiring, etc. with the old stuff removed,  You can also spray foam around all openings and holes in wall top plates to better seal your home as Steve was pointing out.  My concern is the potential for mold spores you mentioned in your question.  If you suspect there are any get a good company in to remove the old and clean the attic.  Another concern is asbestos.  Your home is old enough you could have it in there and that's worse than mold if released into the air.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
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Insulation reviews in Germantown

A

Rating
The first job that I hired
Germantown Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
to do was blown-in cellulose insulation for the first and second floor of my house. When the winter time came you can tell what a difference the insulation made on the temperature of the house. The second job that I hired
Germantown Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
to do was the installation of 13 energy efficient windows which came out great!!d
Germantown Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
the owner is very easy going and great to work with. He always returned my phone calls and answered my e-mails and would let me know if they couldn't come to complete the work due to the weather. I will be using
Germantown Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
and his crew to finish the rest of my windows.
- Teresa Sharlene B.
N

Rating
Everything went well. Cavalier described the scope of work and gave me a cost estimate and a "not to exceed" estimate and every time I've used them they delivered on their promise. I also appreciated their honesty in that during one occasion I asked for work to be done and they said that was not in their area of expertise. I'd much rather have someone be honest with me and do what they say they will do and if they can't do it, to let me know. Cavalier is definitely that company.
- Susan B.
A

Rating
He did what Angie's List said he would do just not a comprehensive anaylsis, no heat loss calculations, detailed action plan; just a verybal 'here's where it's cold' - which I already knew. Waste of money. He did recommend I contact Dominion Energy for comprehensive plan including a blow-test for $50.00 - about the same I spent on
Germantown Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
.
- Gail B.
A

Rating
Insulation job took 2 days & results are fantastic. Huge noticeable difference in temperature on 2nd story. Crew was professional & worked with us on a tight deadline.
- Christina K.
A

Rating
Excellent. They came out right away for an estimate. I had someone from another company look at the job prior to this, and their bid was over $4,000 because they said I needed things that I did not. The total was $2,865 but with tax credits, I paid about $1,800. I hired them based on Angie's list, and the interview with the person that bid the job. I needed the crawl space insulated because I was having wood floors installed, and we discovered that there was no insulation under the house. They were able to do the work sooner than expected. Three men came on time, and were respectful of the new flooring that was being installed. I wasn't there during the actual insulation, but my floor contractor told me they were very professional, and knew what they were doing. In fact, my floor contractor was going to inquire about hiring
Germantown Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
for his own home. After the job was done, they sent out someone to check on the work. There was a tiny problem, and that same day the guys returned to remedy the issue. I felt very comfortable working with thie company from the first call to their office! I will be calling them back to look at my attic insulation.
- Kathy D.
A

Rating
This review is a follow-up to the initial review I have completed, which only included the initial blow-door test and infrared analysis. Once the contract was signed, a installation date was scheduled on the spot. On the day that the installation was scheduled, I received an e-mail early the same morning, informing me that the crew will be a little late, due to having to pick up an extra barrel of insulation solution. I have to say, the overall communication throughout this process has been fantastic! I initially was expecting the crew to arrive at my home for 8:30am. However, based on the e-mail, I was expecting around 10am. The crew showed up at 9:10am.







The crew went right to work, performing the prep work. The were very friendly, professional, and very meticulous in all aspects of their work. The crew worked non-stop until the job was complete. My roof line is about 2,400 square feet, and it took the crew from 9:10am-5:30pm to complete the job. Once the job was completed, the crew performed a thorough cleaning. They actually left my house cleaner than it was when they arrived!







A few days after the installation, Mr.
Germantown Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
returned to perform an inspection of the work, as well as perform a post-installation blow-door test and infrared analysis. As before, he was very professional and offered me great tips on other actions I can take to further my cost savings.







Overall, I am very satisfied with my experience with this company. I have already recommended them to a family member that is interested in spray foam installation. I was impressed with the communication from the owner throughout the process. Mr.
Germantown Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
called me after Mr.
Germantown Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
's initial visit (first blow-door test), an hour after the crew finished the installation of spray foam, and the afternoon after Mr.
Germantown Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
performed his inspection and second blow-door test.







Instead of my heater coming on every 15 minutes, it comes on 3 times per night! My home is no longer damp and drafty. I can't wait to get my Entergy bill to see the cost savings. This project will pay for itself in no time!
- Christopher N.
A

Rating
The service went well. The technicians were on time and professional dressed for the job. They were efficient and consistent worker. They got the job done and I was happy with the work. I had no problem scheduling the deal.
- CLARENCE J.
B

Rating
plastic sheet on ground required removal of trash left by original DIYer (previous owner), replaced plastic with thicker material as required by code by previous inspector, dug out footing and extended footing removing rotten wood, wrapped and sealed all ducts, used extra insulation due to size of ducts, removed all debris. only complaint is that new insulation is a different outer color.
- Gerald S.

All Insulation Contractors in Germantown, TN

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

Along the Grain

POBox 838271
Germantown

American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd
Memphis

Bullseye Home Services, LLC

6928 Cobblestone Dr, Suite 200A

CHUCK'S REMODELING

1236 SIMMONS RIDGE DR
Collierville

Coleman's Home Improvement Co

8308 Rankin Branch Rd
Millington

contractingPRO

9277 Cordova Park Rd.
Cordova

Conway Services

1220 Big Orange Rd.
Cordova

Curb Appeal Custom Painting

7317 New Britain Dr
Memphis

Davis Custom Renovations & Maintanence Services

3630 Otter Creek Cove
Collierville

Dedicated Construction

3095 Ruskin Road
Bartlett

DRI Contractors

3525 Jenny Ln
Memphis

Easy Living Construction

70 Commercial Loop Way
Rossville

Energy Medic - Window Medic

5601 Normandy Ave
Memphis

Excellent Roofing

2733 Whitten Rd
Memphis

Exterior Touch Inc.

12610 Waverly RD.

FoamWorx, Inc.

3109 Ambrose Ave
Nashville

Garrie Pest Control

312 Washington St

Go Green Services

2779 Van Leer Dr
Memphis

Gold Coast Home Services

P.O. Box 22837
Memphis

HARDHAT CONSTRUCTION INC.

3728 CHERRY RD.
Memphis

Investor Rehab Service, Inc.

511 Grassmeade Cove
Cordova

JDRoof.com (JD Ventures LLC)

2101 Hillshire Circle
Memphis

John Silvers Construction Inc

981 E Eau Gallie Blvd

Jolly Enterprises

583 Cadraca Dr Apt 29
Memphis

Knight - Stanz Contractors, LLC

2809 Shelby Street
Memphis

Leslie's Roofing LLC

6220 Falcon Ln

Lucius Complete Home

2874 Price Dr
Bartlett

Meadowbrook Companies LLC

PO Box 382625
Germantown

Metro Builders Inc

2504 Mt Moriah Bldg D
Memphis

Neighborhood Pro Builders

PO Box 342461
Memphis

Nu-Prime Of Memphis

1420 Airways Blvd
Memphis

OSBORNE & OSBORNE LLC

3689 Cherry Rd
Memphis

Parker's Workshop

1581 Nesting Dove Cove
Cordova

Perry Love Construction

964 Sandra St.
Memphis

Precision AC & Heating LLC

2099 Thomas Rd
Memphis

Precision Painting

Collierville

Property Maintenance Services, Inc

6412 Summer Gale Dr
Memphis

Quality Insulation

6101 Discover Drive
Memphis

R and M's Lawn Care

1010 Dominion Dr
Clarksville

Republic Roofing & Restoration LLC

91 Peyton Pkwy
Collierville

RICH-WAY LANDSCAPE INC

639 CHANEY DR
Collierville

RS REMODELERS INC

4497 FAIRMEADOW RD
Memphis

S & M Customs

3440 MAYFLOWER AVENUE
Memphis

Service Experts Heating & Air Conditioning

7470 Bartlett Corp CV W
Memphis

Synergy Construction

5659 Bartlett Woods Dr
Memphis

Terminix

685 S Cox St
Memphis

Top Notch Contracting

5731 Kuykendall Dr

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

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