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"This was a very professional company. Excellent use of technology to send estimate and the invoice later when the job was done. Very efficient and professional." I would definitely recommend to friends/family.

-Duryea L.

"My request for an appointment was answered immediately and he arrived on time. However, the response to the problem was to remove all of the insulation in the two" attics, bleach everything and then spray in all new insulation. This was way beyond what I wanted done and the cost was way beyond what I wanted to spend so I did not hire them.

-Ruth T.

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Local Articles in Friendsville

Avoid ice dams with proper attic insulation

Do you have icicles forming on your eaves and gutters and ice collecting on your roof? An ice dam can cause serious problems without proper insulation.

While traditional fiberglass insulation is affordable and efficient, injection foam insulation can offer even more benefits. (Photo by Summer Galyan)

Insulation isn't sexy, but it can keep you cool at night.

Better air quality, quieter living spaces, comfort and better health are all reasons to reconsider your insulation choices. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Roseanne J. of Seattle)

Not just for new construction, learn how foam insulation can be placed inside existing walls to make your home more comfortable.

By properly insulating your attic you can keep warm air from escaping and save money on your energy bills. (Photo courtesy of Vinay S. of North Brunswick, New Jersey)

Hot air rises … but good insulation can keep your energy costs from doing the same thing.

Even in cold-weather climates, homes often lack insulation between the finished, occupied portion of the home and the ground. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Paul B. of Bluffton, South Carolina)
Insulation, Energy Efficiency Auditing

Exterior foundation insulation is an often overlooked home improvement. It can help stop drafts, lower energy bills and keep your house warmer during winter.

Angie's Answers


If you go the Better Business Bureau website you can see that the company has only had two complaints in the last 18 months and that they have both been resolved.  The company has an A+ rating.  This is not something you can buy.


There are genuine reviews on many 3rd party online review sites including AngiesList and the Better Business Bureau.  Simply do a Google search for "Smart Energy Today Reviews".


Sol Blanket Insulation acts as a radiant barrier, insulation and a vapor barrier.  It is not intended to replace traditional insulation but in fact compliments it and adds to it's ability to keep cool/hot air (depending on the season) in the home when the envelope of the home is properly sealed.  


Every attic is different and there are many other components that must be considered.  You mentioned an attic fan as well.  The heat that is radiated away from the ceiling by the Sol-Blanket Insulation is pushed out of the attic with an attic fan.  The US Department of Energy states that radiant barriers do work and suggest they be installed by professionals.


As with any product by any company if the product is not installed properly and other factors (attic fan, caulking and sealing, etc...) are not addressed then it will not be as effective.


A couple of comments about what Jim said:

1) Regarding type of insulation, in cold winter environments: Cellulose and fiberglass are actually about comparable in R value when installed - blown in cellulose runs from 3.2-3.8 R value, fiberglass batt 2.9-4.3 R value depending on manufacturer and whether hig-density or low density, high-efficiency or standard, according to official Department of Energy publications. Measured values in attic test cases, in areas with a true winter, after 10 years showed a decrease from 3.4 (in the test case) down to 2.1 for cellulose, and 3.5 to 3.3 for fiberglass batt, due to packing or matting. In an attic environment, there WILL be condensation or frost on the insulation at some point during the year (assuming an area with true winters) and in highly insulated houses commonly for a substantial time period each winter. Fiberglass packs down slightly from that weight but mostly rebounds, cellulose packs down and mats and does not substantially recover, so over the years cellulose loses 1/3 to close to 1/2 its insulation value, fiberglass about 10%.

2) a note on radiation barriers attached to the bottom of the rafters - there are a lot of installers and homeowners making two major mistakes with this product that can cause major trouble: First, be sure to terminate it short of the eave openings. I have seen cases where it was carried all the way out to the fascia board, thereby blocking all airflow on the underside of the roof. Even carrying it all the way to the eaves along the bottom of the rafters will block off ventilation to the main attic area. You have to leave the air space between the rafters open to full airflow from the soffit/eave area ot the ridge vent. Second, do NOT run it continuous from eave to eave across the full width of the attic - leave a gap about a foot wide under the ridge vents so warm and moist air in the attic can vent through the ridge vent. Closing the ridge vent area off with the radiant barrier effectively puts a vapor barrier around the main attic area, causing retention of the moisture which WILL accumulate there, promoting mold.


Obviously this is not a timely response to the initial question. However, for those who may be reading these answers at a later time, a couple of added thoughts:

1) the radiant barrier being discussed is basically heavy-duty metal foil or metallized surface on a plastic sheet, intended to reflect RADIATED heat (infrared radiation - think heat light, or heat you can feel at a distance radiated from a fireplace), the same way a mirror reflects light. Radiated heat is how a standard oven broils and how steam and hot water baseboard heat predominately work.

2) you generally should do NOT place a radiant barrier over the insulation that lies between and over the joists in a normal attic, especially in a region where the attic temperature can frequently reach condensation temperature (below about 45-50 degrees) - it may reflect back some of the house heat that is coming up from the house, but by destroying most of the temperature gradient from the house to the attic air destroys much of the driving force that moves moisture to the attic air and subsequent venting. Between that greater heat and the fact the barrier is also a moisture barrier, that makes a perfect condition for mold and rot in your insulation and attic wood, and has become quite an issue in energy upgraded homes because of retrofits that cut off airflow outside the insulation, but do not cut off the moisture source leaking thorough from the house. The proper and ONLY place for a vapor barrier in a normal attic insulation system is on the pressurized and normal warm, humid side of the insulation zone - directly above the ceiling drywall in the top floor, fastened to the UNDERSIDE of the ceiling joists or trusses, NOT anywhere above that. Perforated barriers are supposed to reduce this tendency, but the perforation area percentage is so small that typically they still act as a vapor varrier, just not a totally effective one.

3) radiant barriers reflect radiated heat ewith up to 99% efficiency but have basically zero resistance to CONDUCTION (body to body heat transfer at points of contact - think heat transfer from your warm hand to a frozen cold drink can, or hot pavement heat transfer to the bottom of your feet) - so there needs to be an air gap between the radiant barrier and the hot item passing the heat to it, otherwise the heat will just pass through it by conduction. Therefore, applying it directly to the sheathing (above or below) or manufacturing it directly on the surface of the sheathing defeats its purpose, even though this is commonly done.

4) there is a lot of discussion, particularly in the professional design community, about attic radiant heat barrier effectiveness and problems. Because they are being installed on the bottom of the sheathing or underside of roof joists, they act as a heat trap for the energy being conducted through the roof which would normally radiate into the attic air or be transferred by CONVECTION (fluid flow heat transfer) to the attic air, and be vented through roof vents, ridge vents, gable vents, etc. By trapping that heat, they are causing the underside of the shingles and particularly the felt and sheathing to get a lot hotter than they otherside would, essentially changing it from a system where the shingle top surface might reach 120-180 F and the inside surface of the sheathing about 80-140F in the summer, to making the entire roof system equal to the outside surface temperature. This causes more rapid shingle deterioration and cracking, and makes the felt or plastic moisture barrier under the shingles brittle and subject to failure.

Also, any moisture above the radiant barrier (from roof leaks or humid air coming into the area) is prevented from evaporating by the attic airflow which would normally remove it, so it starts acting like a steamer. I have seen both wood and metal lofts and attics become a major mold farm in months because of this effect, and a couple of roofs which started sagging due to rotted sheathing within 2 years of reroofing with tightly adhered radiant barrier. Some radiant barriers are vapor-permeable to reduce the moisture issue, many are not, but few actually are effective in letting moisture freely escape.

Having seen these products in use, and having analyzed and specified building products for use from the Middle East to the Arctic for decades, and having a Masters in Arctic Engineering (a degree predominately in energy conservation and heat flow), my personal opinion is that these radiant barriers will be banned by code within 10-15 years for unheated (so-called "cold" roofs) roofs, because they just do not use the principles of thermodynamics correctly. For more info on this issue Google the following search phrase  - moisture trapping by radiant attic barriers       and read the government (not the manufacturer) literature on the issue.

5) Unfortunately, the right way to handle this issue is to put the radiant surface on the OUTSIDE of the house - by using reflective materials on the roofing material. This is already done with flat roofs, house trailers, and industrial structures by spraying with alumiunum paint, and a few brands offer reflective aggregate shingles that are slightly more reflective and radiant than normal shingles. People obviously do not like this reflective surface from an aesthetic standpoint, though with solar cells coming into more general use this may soon be more widely adopted. The idea should be to keep the solar energy from penetrating into the building envelope at all, not try to re-reflect it away after it has penetrated throguh the roof system.

The sprayed-in foam has a couple of issues you need to be aware of:

6) it needs to be the low-pressure expanding type mixed for use around window frames, as fully expanding foam can bow joists or trusses and pop drywall ceilings free as it expands, and non-expanding foam actually shrinks as it cures, leaving gaps for air and heat flow alongside the ceiling joists.

7) being closed-cell it is essentially impervious to moisture, so the vapor barrier on the house side has to be EXCELLENT (incuding sealingof all penetrations), or it will trap household moisture escaping into the attic and promote mold and rot in the ceiling drywall and joists.

8) it tends to bleed chemical fumes into the house for a long period of time (can be noticeable for years), which may be objectionable to some people from an odor or environmental standpoint, and especially should be considered if any residents have severe allergy issues or respiratory problems.

9) I emphatically recommend AGAINST use of sprayed-in foam between ceiling joists or truss members in any area that can have cold attic air that could cause moisture condensation in the insulation, though this is probably not a significant problem where you live, assuming your Dallas is the city in Texas. For essentially year-around air-conditioned homes in hot climates, the problem can actually be condensation of attic air moisture on and in the colder ceiling surface insulation and on cold attic runs of air conditioned air, so attic ventilation becomes a critical issue to remove the moisture before it condenses.

In summary, having seen an awful lot of attic moisture and thermal problems, my personal recommendation would be to ensure excellent sealing of the house from the attic, use normal UNFACED fiberglass insulation, and instead of a radiant barrier ensure adequate full-attic ventilation. If you decide to got with a radiant barrier, then I would recommend a perforated one, sloping up towards the sides a foot or two and stopping a foot or so clear at the sides so moist air under it can escape to the roof joist spaces and be vented from the attic. I have seen this done several times with a fine nylon net strung above the insulation in the attic, supporting the barrier, resulting in something very similar to the double-roof system used in bedouin tents, where airflow between the two layers keep the hot air away from the living space.

Steve made a good point.  Also, while it isn't required to remove the old insulation you can check the ductwork, wiring, etc. with the old stuff removed,  You can also spray foam around all openings and holes in wall top plates to better seal your home as Steve was pointing out.  My concern is the potential for mold spores you mentioned in your question.  If you suspect there are any get a good company in to remove the old and clean the attic.  Another concern is asbestos.  Your home is old enough you could have it in there and that's worse than mold if released into the air.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services

A moisture barrier has to be on the warm side ie towards the heated side.  Most people would not install a moisture barrier in your situation.  (They also sell a paint that you can use on your interior ceiling? as a moisture barrier).  Rather most homeowners would hire an insulation contractor to blow a cap over the existing insulation bringing it up to your areas reccomended levels,,Your power company can tell you the level, I would guess R 40.  What you use is up to your wallet, the best is a spray foam that can be applied to the ceiling or over the whole shebang.  Being a bit of a miser I would trot on down to my local big box store and buy a truckload of cellulose and get a free blower for I and a friend to self insulte.  Big box= Menards, Lowes etc.  Cellulose= ground up paper treated with boron for insect control and fireproofing.  It has a high R value and will stop moving air loss from the home. Before you cap current mostly emply attic is ideal time to take sealant to any openings in the attic floor,  like pocket doors, canister lights electircal wires and close off the air leaks from inside.  If foaming skip this.  Hot air rises so you save yourself a ton air sealing the home.

An attic radiant barrier is also a possiblity see my blog for nifty results on it.

Jim Casper Old Energy Conservation Guru

ps moving existing insulation use a plastic rake


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Insulation reviews in Friendsville


Friendsville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
came out to estimate the cost to insulate our finished attic and ultimately informed us that the attic was already insulated about as well as it could be. Since adding more insulation wouldn't offer us results, he instead gave multiple tips on actions we could take in our home to mitigate any temperature extremes. He was extremely professional, knowledgable, and helpful. To be told that work doesn't need to be done is as great a service as doing great work - it exemplifies integrity. Should we need insulation in the future, I'd definitely work with
Friendsville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
- BEN P.

Friendsville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
came out, he gave us an estimate and required a deposit for material up front. We paid him $3,500 for the material.
He came out one day, dug a few holes. We haven't heard from him since. He even left his wheel barrel and cement mixer in our front yard..
We have texted him. No response. We have called him on numerous occasions. It goes straight to voicemail. He hasn't tried to rectify the situation. Nothing.
Now we're out the $3,500 that we saved for our family fence. It's been such a sad situation. That fence was suppose to be for our kids so that they could play outside.
If anyone wants to discuss our experience with
Friendsville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
, feel free to email me at
Friendsville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
.jones1@gmail.com and I'd be happy to chat about their "services" further. Or I can call you. I can also send you photos of how he left our yard..
- Jim J.

This job was done in two phases. The estimator was awesome - clear and much more thorough than the two other companies I'd contacted; he was the reason I chose
Friendsville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
. Couldn't have been happier with the removal crew: on time, thoroughly professional. We walked through the house to make sure all electrical worked before and after the job, and that there was no ceiling damage. Result was a very clean attic, ready for whole-house rewiring, and a happy customer. The installation team, while it included many of the same players, wasn't as well-directed and rushed things. No prior walk-through, and some minor damage to ceilings. Not enough to go through a repair claim, but something that would have been spotted in a post-job inspection. My fault for not insisting on it. All in all a decent job but not as impressive as the removal.

My real gripe and the reason for the B grade is with the billing and paperwork. Multiple estimates and invoices, confusing billings for partial payment, and a final invoice that was undated, requiring follow-up so I could have something proper to send to the Gas Company for their rebate. Ultimately, the total amount was correct, but it took at least an hour of my time and my own spreadsheet to reconcile everything and figure out what was what. I'd use this provider again, but certainly wish that the installation phase and the billing were of the same high quality as the estimator and the initial removal team.

- Kenneth B.

Excellent to work with. We scheduled the work, they arrived on time as promised, and they did a great job installing the insulation.
The team was meticulous, and the finished product looks excellent.
- Carolyn L.

I purchased the deal on Angie's list ($99 for $500 of blown in insulation) on a Tuesday reached out to the provider on the day I purchased the deal. I didn't hear anything from the provider until Saturday when I received an e-mail saying they would call me later that day. I did not receive a call that day and did not end up receiving a call until Wednesday the following week (they left me a voicemail). It took me another few days to reach a person to schedule service. I scheduled service for 8:00 on
Friendsville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
2nd and figured I had time to meet the service professionals and then head into work. I received a call at 8:10 saying that the team had just left and would be at the house in 20-30 minutes. At 8:40 I received another call and the team had gone to the wrong address and were still 20 minutes away. I cancelled the appointment since I didn't have time to wait around any longer. I can't comment on the quality of the work they do since I never ended up having it done. I was too frustrated with the responsiveness to continue.
- Benjamin T.

When they finally showed up, because my husband works early in the morning, I told him to just let them weather strip the doors and not even inspect the attic because they came so late. Yes, I had an appointment but they came 4 hours later than scheduled.
- Michelle E.

absolutely incredible.
I can walk into the shed with the door closed, in the middle of a 95 degree day and the inside temperature is in the 80s.
Friendsville Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
is great if someone installs it correctly. Apparently they knew how to install it, quite unlike the monkeys who attempted to install it in my garage.
- Roger H.

Speedy response to initial call for bid. A few challenges on scheduling both on my end and theirs :) Tough way to make a living on a brutally hot day with heat index around 115 yet the three man crew could not have been more friendly, hardworking and polite.

...More />

- Virginia G.

Insulation Contractors in Friendsville, TN

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A-1 Certified Service Inc

2511 Byington Solway Rd

ACC Construction LLC

PO Box 10409

Advanced Termite & Pest Control

1671 Hwy 70 E

Advanced Window Tint

PO Box 31376


509 North Cedar Bluff Rd

Aire Serv of Knoxville

431 Park Village Rd

Aire Today

2749 Yardberry Edge Ln

Alcoa Heating & Cooling

PO Box 5253

All Pro Insulation

P.O. Box 5854

American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd

Appalachian Construction LLC.

2729 Monte Vista Dr

Archie's Stone and Fireplace

4700 Old Broadway

Armstrong's Home Remodeling

209 pike st.
Lenoir City

Baez Roof

PO BOX 53215

Breathe Green LLC

14395 Hickory Creek Rd B1
Lenior City

Burell Built Exteriors LLC

8504 McKenzie Ln

cables home repairs

8504 childress rd

Campbell's Painting & More

2826 Rambling Rd

CFI Insulation

908 Ault Road

City Heating & Air

3111 NW Park Dr.

Cochran Exteriors LLC

6330 E 75th St

Cornerstone Building Services

415 N Cunningham Rd

Cotas Comfort Heating and Cooling

12806 Chapman Highway

Critter Getter

916 Grace Ave.
Lake City

Custom Renovations Co

PO Box 5228

Cyber Bridge Marine, Inc.

209 S. Stephanie St

Dale Insulation of Knoxville

3479 Northbend Cir

Earl L Daugherty Construction Co

3730 Cherrylog Rd

East Tennessee Contractors

1222 N. Union Grove Rd

East Tennessee Plumbing & Heating LLC

2475 E Parkway

Elite Microspect Home Inspections

713 Owl Hollow Rd.

Exterior Touch Inc.

12610 Waverly RD.

Fix It Technologies

7019 Oak Ridge Hwy

G.E.S. Custom Remodel L.L.C.

201 Center Park Dr.

Green Energy Barrier of East Tennessee

6716 Central Pike Avenue

Green River LLC

P.O. Box 52085


1605 Prosser Rd

Hicks Painting & Home Maintenance Inc

1792 Tinnel Rd
Lenoir City

High Oaks, LLC

1135 Atlantic Ave

Home Choice Windows Doors & Flooring

8719 Kingston Pike

Home Depot

943 Foothills Mall Dr

Hood's Handyman Service LLC

1924 Laurans Ave

Hylton Heat And Air LLC

2750 Newport Hwy.

IDI Construction

1205 Sparwood Ln

Integrity Exteriors, LLC

4856 Creek Rock Ln

J & D Home Services

5213 Northside Dr

J.D. Jackson Contracting Co

2103 23rd Avenue N

Jess's Handyman Service

1229 Everett Rd

Johnson Remodeling

4108 Brown Gap Rd

Kingston Scandlyn Lumber Company Inc

801 Larry Byrd Rd

Knox Roofing

8709 Olde Colony Trail

Leslie's Roofing LLC

6220 Falcon Ln

Letterman & Sons

1617 Buckeye Rd.

Lewis Home Repairs

2330 Bob Carnes Rd

Lukes GC

5115 Rouse Ln

McCreary Contracting Inc.

2305 Robinson Rd.

Moore Home Services

114 Foster Hill

Napier Construction Inc.

8209 Ruggles Ferry Pk.

One Energy Technologies

8540 Kingston Pike

Pro Tech

1842 Winfield Dunn Pkwy


7671 S Northshore Dr


1221 East Broadway Avenue

Radiant Energy Solutions

608 Weldon Dr



RetroFoam of East Tennessee

201 Center Park Drive Suite 1100

Ridgecrest Roofing & Remodeling

2370 Old Newport Highway


P. O. Box 5358
Oak Ridge

Rocky Top Air

3832 Martin Mill Pike

SafeHome Services, inc.

236 E Main St

Scott Kinsler Construction LLC

1505 Majesty Dr
Jefferson City

Soundrite-Acoustics, Inc.

209 S. Stephanie Street

Southeastern Contractors Group


Stancell Construction

10921 Sallings Rd

Steve Mikels Contracting

508 Pickens Gap Road

Stinnett Heating & Air of Knoxville

312 Rockwell Farm

Supreme Contracting Inc

4325 Greenway Dr

Tennessee Contracting Services Inc

127 Powell Dr

Testerman Restoration, LLC

104 Land Oak lane

The Art Of Home Maintenance

1336 Ellejoy Road

The Premier Handyman

Kimberlin Heights Rd

Tindell's Installed Sales

7751 Norris Freeway

Unique Construction Services

111 Center Park Drive #130

Universal Construction of TN, LLC

11625 Shirecliffe Lane

W Squares

121 Talon Pl


12637 S 265 W Suite 100

Wellman Custom Remodeling

1004 Pintail Road

Westbrook Repair

8609 Rushbrook Dr

Wyatt's Custom Home Improvements

4422 Ball Camp Pike

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