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F
"We reached out to
to put an internet line in our office. The Electrician came to our office and began to complete the job. Half-way though" the job, the Electrician abruptly stopped and said he needed to go get an extra part. He said he would come back to our office within one hour. The Electrician never showed up. He not only left the job incomplete, he left the office a mess. We called back several times that day asking where the Electrician went. We didn't get an answer until the next day.
called us back the following morning. One would assume she would be apologetic for a job incomplete. Boy were we wrong. She called back to let us know we did not pay the $125 service fee. While I was speaking with her to let her know the job was incomplete, she hung up on me during the conversation. VERY UNPROFESSIONAL. I called her back and she still remained hostile. As an owner of a service business myself, I am shocked at the level of
's lack of respect and empathy towards this situation. Even with the job still remains incomplete, I agreed to pay the $125 Service Fee, which I did, but let her know in return, I would be posting this message to warn others to avoid
at all costs. Regards, Mohib

-Ali M.

A
"Worker showed up on time we had an issue with the electrical provider doing a temporary disconnect other than that they did a great job and went above and beyond" and fixed a few electrical issues that were not in the bid. I would highly recommend them.

-Rudy U.

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Local Articles in Dunlap

The Angie's List Guide to Winter Maintenance

It's the time of year when the winter weather can take a toll. Follow this winter maintenance checklist to protect your home, your car and your health.

Hiring an Electrician

Good electricians require extensive training and continuing education to keep up with constantly changing technology. Your residential electrical contractor provides an important service to keep your home running safely and smoothly, so you want to hire the best possible person. Read this Homeowner's Guide to Hiring an Electrician to learn more before you hire.

The most important benefit of upgrading your electrical system is that your home will be protected from fire hazards caused by overloaded circuits. (Photo courtesy of Point Loma Electric)
Electrical

Don’t wait for sparks to fly; learn the right way to tell if your electric system is in need of an upgrade

Electrical work is extremely dangerous, so make sure you hire a licensed pro for work around the home.
Electrical

If you discover that you have an old Federal Pacific breaker box, a faulty circuit breaker or an outdated fuse box, how much can you expect to pay to have a qualified electrician replace it?

electrical wiring
Electrical

Electrical work requires trade knowledge and following code regulations in most states

outdoor lighting electricity
Lighting, Electrical

If you're experiencing electrical problems in your home or want to add capacity for new projects, consider hiring an electrician for these four services.

Angie's Answers

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Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.
?

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

?

Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.

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An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.

 

A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.

 

Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.

?

If you already have a fixture there, around $100 plus or minus about $30 if not over 7 or 30 pounds, or about $200-300 if weighs over about 7 or 30 pounds. The 7 or 30 pound ranges are dependent on whether the existing box is plastic or a standard Square-D type or equivalent metal one, because each type of box can only hold so much weight. If existing box is rated 70 pounds or more (ceiling fan or large chandelier rated) then the $100 range should do it regardless.

 

I am assuming when you say mini-pendants you meant from a single box if more than one. If you meant two separate by some feet, add probably about $100 more to add a second box, ASSUMING they will both be run off the same single switch.

 

IF you do NOT have a light fixture there now, then can run from $150-300 range if there is easy access from above (open attic) to $500 or more if has to tear into drywall to install wiring and box so you then have to get drywall contractor and painter in to repair the damages.

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Electrical reviews in Dunlap

A

Rating
We had an electrical panel fire Wednesday afternoon. I contacted
Dunlap Electricians Provider Name Locked
through the list, after hours, after the fire truck had left and the power company had switched off our power.
Dunlap Electricians Provider Name Locked
responded by 9:45 PM. We set an appointment for the next morning. We met with him and our adjuster .. determined the work and agreed to have
Dunlap Electricians Provider Name Locked
do it.
Dunlap Electricians Provider Name Locked
noticed other details and expanded the scope as far as the meter. The adjuster agreed on the spot (she was great, too). Friday he got the parts and permit. Saturday he showed up at the agreed upon time and finished the job in less time than he estimated. So we paid him and thanked him - and will now wait for the county to inspect Monday and tell us we can go home. I can't imagine a better or faster experience.
- Richard A.
A

Rating
They did a great job. They are very friendly and helpful.
Dunlap Electricians Provider Name Locked
didn't try to oversell me on what I needed. I thought the price was very reasonable given the work involved and would highly recommend them.
- George A.
A

Rating
Dunlap Electricians Provider Name Locked
is great. Straight shooter. Discussed options,etc before I purchased fixtures. Steered me away from some other items. I plan to use
Dunlap Electricians Provider Name Locked
again in the near future. This was my first experience with
Dunlap Electricians Provider Name Locked
.
I am hooked.
- William A.
A

Rating
This gentleman came and looked at what I needed to have done. He installed my outlets outside and then I asked him for a quote on installing a couple outlets in my garage. We set a date for him to come back, which he did. He cleaned up after himself and fixed my outlets for me. Very punctual and I am happy with my outlets.
- Judy V.
D

Rating
The estimate never happened. I had take Friday afternoon off from work to be home for this estimate.
I got a call a few hours before that the electician' s car had been in the shop the night before and was not ready and therefore had no transportation to my house and that I would need to reschedule the visit.
I found this to be a bit ridiculous. It was just an estimate. He could have borrowed some one else' s car or had someone drive him.
So I rescheduled for next Tuesday. We will see if they show up.
It very hard for me to take time off from work. So I was not happy about the cancellation.
I had had service from them before and was satisfied. This was very disappointing.
- Geoff P.
A

Rating
They worked quickly. Polite. A lot of left over dust, but I think this was unavoidable. Drywall not repaired but knew this would be the case upfront and they gave me a reference for a provider to complete. Love my new lighting in a previously very dim older home.
- Elizabeth K.
A

Rating

The. first day .they tried. To finish up the wiring. of the three-way switch and "tested" the new transformer ,. It took them 2 1/2 hours and they said the transformer was bad.. After contacting the transformer maker, who said the transformer had to be installed in the circuit in order to work, they came back and installed the transformer.. And it worked! They really did the best they could. but apparently weren't familiar with electronic transformer's, although they are now.



We were impressed by their honesty and integrity in honoring the Angie's list agreement .

.We would use them again. And would recommend. them. to our friends and family. They were neat and clean and personable with good attitudes.
- Sheila S.
A

Rating
They where fast and took care of everything. Came in told me what I needed and how he was going to do it. He started and finished faster then I thought. Great service and communications
- yazan A.

All Electricians in Dunlap, TN

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

5 Star TN

2818 b foster ave
Nashville

A & A Mobile Magic

9121 Potomac Dr
Chattanooga

A P T SERVICES

PO BOX 76504

A1betterhandyman

300 Hillwood Lane
Mcminnville

Absolute Electric Company

11403 Dolly Pond Rd
Birchwood

Action Rental & Sales

6509 Lee Highway
Chattanooga

Addisen Power Washing Co

1076 Engel Ave
Chattanooga

ADVANCED ELECTRIC

PO Box 9224
Chattanooga

Affordable Electric LLC

5220F Hickory Woods Ln
Hixson

Alexander Technical Resources

1263 Glenwood Ave SE

Always By Code electric, Inc

718 Thompson Ln.
Nashville

American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd
Memphis

Appalachian Design & Build, LLC

3410 Sleepy Hollow Rd
Chattanooga

BENNY BARKER ELECTRICAL

361 RIVER DR
Dunlap

Bryan Pritchard Homes

7126 Garfield Rd
Harrison

DirectBuy of Indianapolis

8450 Westfield Blvd

EES Energy Consulting

5821 W. Sam Houston Parkway N #400

Embark Project Services, LLC

6234 Perimeter Drive
Chattanooga

Enrique Construction

627 McCharles St

EPB

10 W M.L. King Blvd
Chattanooga

EPB FIBER OPTICS

10 W ML KING BLVD
Chattanooga

Evans Electric

150 Gray Creek Rd
Graysville

Exquisite Designs

47332 Sterdley Falls

FES Security

P O Box 4134
Maryville

GRAHAM'S ELECTRICAL

515 NICHOLAS LN
Dunlap

Hancock Construction

1026 Graysville Road
Chattanooga

Handyman Connection - Chattanooga

515 Airport Rd
Chattanooga

Hargiss Home Repair and Rehab

1878 Coffee Tree Ln
Soddy Daisy

Helton Electrical Co

PO Box 811
Ooltewah

Higdon Electric

5214 Dayton Blvd
Chattanooga

IMPROVE AMERICA INC

327 Cherokee Blvd., PO Box 4954
Chattanooga

INTEGRATED ELECTRICAL CONCEPTS

P.O. Box 1071
Hixson

Integrity Home Developers, LLC

11249 Blair Rd.
Apison

J.D. Jackson Contracting Co

2103 23rd Avenue N
Nashville

Jim Bob Contracting

11 Long Street
Athens

Lawson Electric Co

405 N Park Dr # 1

Leslie's Roofing LLC

6220 Falcon Ln

LIGHT'N ELECTRIC

3135 HARRISON PIKE
Cleveland

Malone Heating & Air

2021 Watauga St
Chattanooga

Miclaus Remodeling

26001 Hwy 127
Dunlap

MidSouth Construction LLC

1619 Elm Hill Pike
Nashville

Mobile Home Repair

512 Cobby Cir

Morgan Electric

50 Morgan Rd
Pikeville

Mountaintop Construction LLC

118 Lee Parkway
Chattanooga

Newton Electric

180 county rd 504
Englewood

Ooltewah Electric

8104 Pine Ridge Rd.
Ooltewah

Painter Ready

1523 E 27th St
Chattanooga

PINNACLE ELECTRIC LLC

578 MEADOWLARK DR

POSSUM CREEK ELECTRIC CO LLC

2428 LEE PIKE
Soddy Daisy

Reliable Heating & A/C

404 Spears Ave
Chattanooga

Ross Construction Services LLC

103 Hickory Hill Dr
Estill Springs

RSU Contractors

1461 Battleground Dr Ste A
Murfreesboro

SB Electrical Contracting

Po box 4133
Cleveland

Scenic Air Solutions

413 Shannon Dr.
Hixson

Scenic City Enterprises, LLC

4423 Kings Lake Ct
Chattanooga

South East Total Service

1723 Church Rd
Chattanooga

Spivey Construction

1320 C Stratton Place Dr.
Chattanooga

Superior Home Improvement

428 Porter Lake RD
Spring City

T & B ELECTRIC

PO Box 28255
Chattanooga

The Flying Dutchman

117 Alford St
Athens

TJ Construction

254 Old Graysville Rd
Dayton

Ultimate Service

6845 Old Stage Rd
Chattanooga

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

WEBB ELECTRICAL CO

PO Box 70866

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