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"We were impressed with the quality and detail of the work provided. I had them install an outlet for an island light fixture in my kitchen. They verified my appointment" and called before arriving to let me know they were on the way. It was a difficult installation due to water lines in the ceiling (2-story) but the work was completed in a timely manner and with minimal mess. Very professional and wanted to make sure we were satisfied with the work. They tested all the outlets before leaving and wanted to know if we had any questions. Would highly recommend them for any future work we need. Since we are recent transplants to Houston it was nice to have a qualified company that is very customer oriented. They did a great job!

-Judy E.

"The power in my Master Bathroom and 1/2 Bath had gone out. I tried to resolve the problem on my own by resetting the Breaker Panel and outlet in the garage on numerous" attempts. The outlet would not reset neither time. At 12:45 pm I located
Electric on Angie's List and upon calling for a service call and explaining my problem, a very pleasant woman immediately asked for address and telephone number. She explained that she would call me back as soon as she was able to contact Electricians to confirm what time they would be available to come to my home. Within 8 minutes, the kind lady called back and confirmed an appointment at 2pm. To my surprise, Mr
and Mr
was at my door at 2pm with an extremely warm and professional demeanor. They checked both bathrooms and proceeded to the garage where they found the faulty outlet located next to the Breaker Panel and replaced it. Mr
and Mr
explained that it was most likely not resetting due to being very sensitive to the extreme cold and/or raining conditions we've been having and was just worn out. The job was performed quickly and professionally. Mr.
and Mr
was extremely courteous and made sure all my concerns were answered. I would highly recommend
Company to anyone who's looking for trustworthy professionals.

-Wanda G.

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Local Articles in Dayton

The Angie's List Guide to Winter Maintenance

It's the time of year when the winter weather can take a toll. Follow this winter maintenance checklist to protect your home, your car and your health.

Hiring an Electrician

Good electricians require extensive training and continuing education to keep up with constantly changing technology. Your residential electrical contractor provides an important service to keep your home running safely and smoothly, so you want to hire the best possible person. Read this Homeowner's Guide to Hiring an Electrician to learn more before you hire.

The most important benefit of upgrading your electrical system is that your home will be protected from fire hazards caused by overloaded circuits. (Photo courtesy of Point Loma Electric)

Don’t wait for sparks to fly; learn the right way to tell if your electric system is in need of an upgrade

Electrical work is extremely dangerous, so make sure you hire a licensed pro for work around the home.

If you discover that you have an old Federal Pacific breaker box, a faulty circuit breaker or an outdated fuse box, how much can you expect to pay to have a qualified electrician replace it?

electrical wiring

Electrical work requires trade knowledge and following code regulations in most states

outdoor lighting electricity
Lighting, Electrical

If you're experiencing electrical problems in your home or want to add capacity for new projects, consider hiring an electrician for these four services.

Angie's Answers

Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).


Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.


An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.


A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.


Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.


If you already have a fixture there, around $100 plus or minus about $30 if not over 7 or 30 pounds, or about $200-300 if weighs over about 7 or 30 pounds. The 7 or 30 pound ranges are dependent on whether the existing box is plastic or a standard Square-D type or equivalent metal one, because each type of box can only hold so much weight. If existing box is rated 70 pounds or more (ceiling fan or large chandelier rated) then the $100 range should do it regardless.


I am assuming when you say mini-pendants you meant from a single box if more than one. If you meant two separate by some feet, add probably about $100 more to add a second box, ASSUMING they will both be run off the same single switch.


IF you do NOT have a light fixture there now, then can run from $150-300 range if there is easy access from above (open attic) to $500 or more if has to tear into drywall to install wiring and box so you then have to get drywall contractor and painter in to repair the damages.


Electrical reviews in Dayton


Dayton Electricians Provider Name Locked
was wonderful- he was very friendly and professional. His work was fast and efficient. He installed three ceiling light fixtures and connected a light switch to an outlet, all in under 2 hours. I will definitely use
Dayton Electricians Provider Name Locked
again in the future.
- Casey D.

Dayton Electricians Provider Name Locked
was on time, very personable, and professional! I didn't realize until shortly before he arrived I didn't receive the correct number of detectors I had ordered. He very graciously followed me to Home Depot so I could purchase what I needed. He completed the work well within the scheduled time frame. He answered my questions. I would definitely use their service again!
- Karen B.

Just perfect.
Dayton Electricians Provider Name Locked
dispatched a technician as soon as another job was completed. This is a company that has a professional staff of well qualified people. I have used AES before for a lighting installation and the result was the same. This is a " go to" company for me.
- Martin D.

I hired them to replace some gfci outlets in a kitchen.
Dayton Electricians Provider Name Locked
went around the house and identified 9 outlets that needed to be replaced. We agreed on a price. The electrician hired came in and replaced 9 outlets in my living room and said that there was no note to replace the outlets in the kitchen and he was not liable for the extra work. Then, after the intial work when the electrician when to put the panel box back on the wires did not reach and because it was not up to new code they could not do anything but replace the entire panel box. Then 2 weeks ago (6 months after the job) we received notice that the final inspection had not been scheduled with the city with a $150 bill. When we asked the office person why this was so late her response was that they have 1 year to schedule and bill us for any work and I quote "she knows the rules and we don't".

This company was referred by my friends. They actually local to McMinnville, even though they also have a Lebanon location.
I originally just wanted some ceiling lights put in but after talking to their installers I did much more, and happy I did it !
They installed
Dayton Electricians Provider Name Locked
light panels in every room that I had regular lights. Some are recessed and flush to the ceiling. My living room now has a beautiful
Dayton Electricians Provider Name Locked
chandelier that I can customize the color of the lights.This was a pretty Good investment and they actually showed me my house current draw before and after I had all this installed. BIG difference!!! I cant wait to see how much my electric bill dropped. Very Clean cut and polite. I think it was a very good price considering the pay off latter. I will be calling them back whenever I need electrical work done..
- Cathy L.

I am very satisfied with the services.
Dayton Electricians Provider Name Locked
was very pleasant to work with. After a few email exchanges,
Dayton Electricians Provider Name Locked
quoted me a price and scheduled a time that was convenient for us.
Dayton Electricians Provider Name Locked
and his assistant showed up on time and worked nonstop until the job was finished. In the process of running wire to create another electrical box, they hit a beam which created complications. But they were able to work around the
Dayton Electricians Provider Name Locked
and got the job done. They were very professional, clean and efficient. They were also very careful with centering the lights during installation. The installation was perfect. We are very happy with the results. At the end of installation, it turned out that we had purchased the wrong wall plate so it did not fit with the existing switch.
Dayton Electricians Provider Name Locked
came back a second time to put the new wall plate on free of charge. We would definitely hire him again.
- Rui W.

Being out-of-state, i needed an electrical contractor that i could trust to do the job in my absence.
Dayton Electricians Provider Name Locked
's crew responded expeditiously, completed the job in a very professional manner, handled all the necessary permits, and acted on my behalf competently. I intend to use them for other projects.
- don C.

Dayton Electricians Provider Name Locked
was the only installer I contacted that offered a true "turn key" installation. All the others wanted me to arrange for propane and other components of the job. Several never got back to me.
Dayton Electricians Provider Name Locked
always gets back to you immediately. I gave him the job on a Monday and the generator was running on Thursday. (What held it up was waiting for the inspector)
The job was done promptly and neatly.
Very pleased.
- Bruno N.

All Electricians in Dayton, TN

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

5 Star TN

2818 b foster ave

A & A Mobile Magic

9121 Potomac Dr


PO BOX 76504

Absolute Electric Company

11403 Dolly Pond Rd

Action Rental & Sales

6509 Lee Highway

Addisen Power Washing Co

1076 Engel Ave


PO Box 9224

Affordable Electric LLC

5220F Hickory Woods Ln

Alexander Technical Resources

1263 Glenwood Ave SE

Always By Code electric, Inc

718 Thompson Ln.

American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd

Appalachian Design & Build, LLC

3410 Sleepy Hollow Rd

Bryan Pritchard Homes

7126 Garfield Rd

CES Electric

10808 Foothill Blvd

DirectBuy of Indianapolis

8450 Westfield Blvd

EES Energy Consulting

5821 W. Sam Houston Parkway N #400

Embark Project Services, LLC

6234 Perimeter Drive

Enrique Construction

627 McCharles St

Experts At Hand


Exquisite Designs

47332 Sterdley Falls

FES Security

P O Box 4134

Hancock Construction

1026 Graysville Road

Handyman Connection - Chattanooga

2115 Chapman Rd.

Helton Electrical Co

PO Box 811

Higdon Electric

5214 Dayton Blvd


327 Cherokee Blvd., PO Box 4954


P.O. Box 1071

Integrity Home Developers, LLC

11249 Blair Rd.

J.D. Jackson Contracting Co

2103 23rd Avenue N

Jim Bob Contracting

11 Long Street

Lawson Electric Co

405 N Park Dr # 1

Leslie's Roofing LLC

6220 Falcon Ln





McCay Southern Electrical Services

1014 County Road 20

Miclaus Remodeling

26001 Hwy 127

MidSouth Construction LLC

1619 Elm Hill Pike

Mobile Home Repair

512 Cobby Cir

Mountaintop Construction LLC

118 Lee Parkway

Newton Electric

180 county rd 504

Ooltewah Electric

8104 Pine Ridge Rd.

Painter Ready

1523 E 27th St


415 3RD AVE




Soddy Daisy

Reliable Heating & A/C

404 Spears Ave

Ross Construction Services LLC

103 Hickory Hill Dr
Estill Springs

RSU Contractors

1461 Battleground Dr Ste A

SB Electrical Contracting

Po box 4133

Scenic Air Solutions

413 Shannon Dr.

South East Total Service

1723 Church Rd

Spivey Construction

1320 C Stratton Place Dr.

Superior Home Improvement

428 Porter Lake RD
Spring City


PO Box 28255

The Flying Dutchman

117 Alford St

TJ Construction

254 Old Graysville Rd

Ultimate Service

6845 Old Stage Rd


12637 S 265 W Suite 100


PO Box 70866

Shop Local Electrical Services in Dayton, TN

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