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Over 561 reviews for
Bean Station Drain Pipe Contractors from people just like you.

A
"Ed came and spent a significant amount of time with me. He was able to give me some helpful hints to see where my drainage issue was. He recommended I spend $150" on some temporary piping to identify the where my issues were coming from. After doing this, I avoided a significant amount of unneeded work and money that was recommended by another provided. Due to his suggestions, I was able to go back to some landscapers that did some unrelated work for me years ago that resulted in drainage issues. They were able to fix the problem, so I didn't need Ed's services, but I would have used him if they didn't fix the problem.

-James S.

C
" I planned to use their service during late spring as roots have sometimes encroached upon sewer lines in our house as well as several neighbors. I was going" to use their services as a preventative measure as we had had no serious problems in years. Unfortunately that was the year that our boiler started leaking and had to be replaced distracting us from going forward with our project. that summer we lost our central air conditioning and had to use window and room units to get through the remainder of the summer. We did replace our central system in the fall, and that winter finally started to return to our sewer cleaning project.. We left a message with the receptionist at
and several days later were called by a manager who stated they would not honor the" big deal" but would be glad to do the job at their new regular price of several hundred dollars. At this point I think I would just like my money refunded since they did no work or even gave no personal assessment at my residence. This is not to cast aspersion on the work
does, it is just a business dispute caused in part by my unforeseen circumstances preventing me from taking advantage of the "big deal" in a timely manner. This was a very good price for the service proposed, and I can understand them not wanting to honor an old prepaid price, but again since they did no work I would like to have the money refunded.

-RICHARD M.

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Local Articles in Bean Station

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Pipe lining and bursting replacement techniques offer alternatives to sewer line excavation. "Trenchless" process is ideal when patios or decks are in the way.

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From garage door maintenance to gutter cleaning, outdoor maintenance now will save you big repair costs next spring.

Angie's Answers

?

First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.

 

Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.

?

From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

?
It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!
?

Well , you've certainly started a debate that will endure forever , but personally , having worked with both products , PEX is a better product . Now granted , the 1st time i used it

I was not impressed , cause it leaked.......NOT because the product was at fault, it was because I did not understand how to use the product !

The trick to using Pex , is to make certain that the fittings seat, they MUST be pushed together with force, and if you do not push with force to get the seat to seal, it leaks .

Therefore , when using PEX , you have constantly to be aware of leaving room to make your connections -Properly !

The beauty of PEX is that it bends , it is flexible and decreases the labor factor ,although the connection costs are often 100-300 % higher than copper , but again , it can cut labor costs in half  and it is safer to work with,  NO FLAMEs!

?
FYI: CPVC and PEX are two different materials and installed differently.  PEX is not intended to be glued but instead has special crimp fittings.  PEX is a brand name of one product that is manufactured slightly differently by others as well so it is important that the same brand fittings are used to match the pipe material.

Mobile homes used CPVC for years and some still do.  It works fine but is not as strong as a properly soldered copper pipe system.  Is the contractor installing this new plumbing a licensed plumber?  I'd be surprised if he is since he's using CPVC and not PEX (or similar) or copper.  PEX pipe is even cheaper than CPVC when run by a knowledgable plumber.  It doesn't require nearly as many joints since it comes in rolls and can flex through spaces easily.

There are some groups raising a fuss about BPA and other chemicals found in plastics that don't like the use of CPVC, PVC, or PEX pipe.  I haven't seen the results of any lab tests to confirm or dispute their concerns.  As far as durability goes it's fairly safe as long as it's properly installed and secured.  It is not as susceptible to hard water damage as copper.  It absolutely must be insulated along it's entire length to protect it from contact to other materials as well as freezing.  Also, the fixtures in the house need to be grounded electrically since the pipe itself provides no electrical protection against accidental shock or electrocution.  In a copper plumbed house the system is grounded so static electricity, a short in a wire near a water line, or lightning strike will carry the current out through the pipe instead of through the water to you, ideally.

If it's installed correctly you should be fine but make sure the contractor knows what he is doing and follows the proper procedures to use CPVC pipe.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
www.thomeservices.com
?
It is usually cheaper to remove part of the ceiling below and patch it after the leak has been repaired.  Remember that water can travel before settling in one area, causing the spot you've seen.  Just because it is below the toilet does not mean that the toilet is the problem.  The cheapest option is to pull the toilet and check the floor around the wax ring to see if it has been leaking.  A new wax ring only costs a few dollars.  When was the last time you caulked the shower in that bathroom?  The water can leak around the corners or at the door (if you have one) and travel along the floor joists until it pools in a lower spot on the ceiling below, then seep through.  It could also be a seal at the drain of the tub or shower. 

I get a few calls a year for this sort of thing.  It's usually something simple but can be a nightmare to diagnose, especially if the problem is intermittent.  Start with the simple possibilities and use deductive reasoning to narrow the possibilities.  Before you do a lot of damage it may pay off to hire a reputable contractor to help you make sure you've exhausted all of the imple and more obvious possibilities.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services

Drain Pipe Installation reviews in Bean Station

A

Rating
Originally came to our house to repair and inspect our two pumps when we moved in, came back on a rainy Saturday to do emergency work two years later when drain pipe was plugged up, replaced one pump. Came back recently to run a second pipe to prevent future problems. Our go to team for all sump pump work.
- Edith S.
A

Rating
Just like last year,
Bean Station Drain Pipe Contractors Provider Name Locked
was very punctual and professional. He came in with his big air compressor and connected it to
my sprinkler system to push out all the remaining water in the underground pipes. He did that zone by zone for all our six zones. He also replaced one of the older sprinklers which was damaged with a new one which works well now and he adjusted another sprinkler to better cover the lawn up front. As usual he gave me a lot of useful tips. I was very happy with his level of professionalism, punctuality and quality of service.
- Wojciech G.
B

Rating
The service went okay. I have not followed through with the project just yet. They were quick to respond and easy to schedule with. I was looking for some drainage changes and they gave some good ideas. They were very informative.
- JAMES I.
A

Rating
Excellent experience throughout the process.
Bean Station Drain Pipe Contractors Provider Name Locked
spent a lot of personal time with us and he lead meetings with any specialty contractors. The work was all well performed, on time and within budget. He had numerous good ideas to improve on our initial wish list so that we did not leave things undone or any residual problems. We would award
Bean Station Drain Pipe Contractors Provider Name Locked
and his team an A+. When we have more work to do we will work only trhough him and we recommend him to all of our friends and neighbors.
- Barry R.
A

Rating
very prompt returning calls & arriving for appointment, very helpful in solving problem long-term,
- Rebecca R.
A

Rating
Apparently sometime during January of 2015, while my husband and I were wintering in Florida, something stopped working in the hot water heating system. We had asked some family members to look into the house periodically, but with all the deep snows and the many storms, no one apparently was able to do that. According to the extent of the damages, the house must have been frozen a long time for all of the heat radiators to freeze, swell and burst. When the weather warmed a little the burst pipes started spreading water over the hardwood floors. We were notified that a water sensor in the basement had sent out an alarm to our home security agency. By the time
Bean Station Drain Pipe Contractors Provider Name Locked
got into the house it was raining in the basement with an inch of water on the floor. In addition to stopping the continuing water flow and finding and fixing leaks, they brought in heaters to keep our utility room (full of gages, valves, pipes water tanks and the boiler) from freezing. They found the source of the heat failure in the boiler, ordered and replaced those parts as well as several other heat related parts. Mr Carafotes also volunteered to walk the home insurance adjustor through all the repairs, although on the day arranged for the adjustor to be at the house Mr. Carafotes was called out to another heating emergency. I feel that I can say without doubt that
Bean Station Drain Pipe Contractors Provider Name Locked
earned their payment.
- Kathi M.
A

Rating
They contacted me promptly and showed up in a profession manner. The fixes were done quickly and they had to go out and purchase a fixture which they did and returned quickly. Very polite service, professional and well done. Would definitely use again!
- Leslie P.
A

Rating
Within 2 days of moving into our house we had a sewage backup into our basement! I called a few plumbers but no one was able to get out to my house for several days.
Bean Station Drain Pipe Contractors Provider Name Locked
, however, was able to come out the same day and gave us an estimate. He started work the next day and had the job done by the afternoon! He was professional, helpful, and nice to our dogs :-) Also, the total cost of the work he completed was much less expensive than what we were quoted by another plumber!
Work completed included:
-Snaking pipe to look for clogs (there turned out to be a root ball from a nearby tree and a trap in the drain that had filled with sediment and hardened from the water not being used for several months prior to purchasing the home).
-Removing and replacing a portion of the foundation to access the sewer pipe
-
Bean Station Drain Pipe Contractors Provider Name Locked
the ground outside the house to remove the old sewer pipe and filling back in with dirt when job completed
-Replacing old sewer pipe with new pipe (old pipe had rusted through on the portion inside the basement, allowing sewage to leak into basement)
-Ensuring water was flowing into septic tank and remaining at proper level
-Replaced a few other older pipes that connected to main sewer pipe
-Explained everything that needed done and answered all my questions along the way!
We were so impressed with
Bean Station Drain Pipe Contractors Provider Name Locked
and his son's work that we hired him to come back out to the house to remove our barely functioning old sump pump. He bought a new (energy saving!) sump pump, installed new pipes (the old ones were duct taped together) and verified it was working. This work cost about $400 ($200 for the pump, $200 for labor because it took some time to verify that the sump pump was draining to where it should).
Hopefully we're done fixing plumbing issues for a while but if we need further work we will be calling
Bean Station Drain Pipe Contractors Provider Name Locked
!
- Kelly T.

Drain Pipe Contractors in Bean Station, TN

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

ACE LANDSCAPING

4530 CENTRAL PIKE
Hermitage

Affordable Construction Services, Inc

319 Vann Drive E214
Jackson

Ameri-Dry Waterproofing

Servicing Maryland & Virginia

Barile Patios and Landscape Construction

1530 Old Liberty Hill Rd
Morristown

Bizzy B Plumbing & Home Improvement

5845 Tallassee Rd.
Tallassee

Brandon Eubanks Plumbing & Electrical

135 Church St
Hickory Valley

Cahaba Scapes

2130 11th avenue north

Extreme Lawn Care

85 Wyndelake Cv
Jackson

H&H Home Improvements

507 Prichard St
Lebanon

Handyman Ken Can

137 Cypress Lane
Dresden

Premier Lawn Care

1866 Old Tullahoma Hwy
Manchester

R & K Home Improvements

2070 Wild Cherry Ct
Lewisburg

Sharp Home Repair

7160 Lakeshore Drive
Rutledge

Shelter Home Maintenance

9405 Nashville Hwy
Mcminnville

Specialty Construction Solutions, Inc.

101 Tateho Rd.
Greeneville
Bean Station Zip Codes

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