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"They could not have been any more responsive and considerate to our timing,,, especially with a
in the house. I was extremely impressed" with their professionalism and attentiveness to our concerns. We will definitely use them whenever we have the need.

-patrick B.

"Provided good service which we needed before our house went on
, although he was leaving for overseas trip the next day. We appreciated his" service. This is the 2nd time he has performed good work for us.

-Donna J B.

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Local Articles in Mcclellanville

Hiring an Electrician

Good electricians require extensive training and continuing education to keep up with constantly changing technology. Your residential electrical contractor provides an important service to keep your home running safely and smoothly, so you want to hire the best possible person. Read this Homeowner's Guide to Hiring an Electrician to learn more before you hire.

Electrical Troubleshooting

Although the potential dangers of electrocution and fire should make most homeowners wary of do-it-yourself electrical projects, there are some basic electric troubleshooting tips that can help when you are experiencing issues.

Angie's List ideas
Remodeling - General, Plumbing, Electrical, Auto Service, Roofing, Heating & A/C

Here are some of our favorite tips from highly rated service professionals over the past 20 years.

orange brick house in winter
Garage Doors, Roofing, Holiday Decorating, Gutter Cleaning, Pest Control/Exterminating, Lawn & Yard Work, Carpet Cleaning, Chimney Sweep, Fireplaces, Electrical, Handymen, Housecleaning, Animal & House Sitting, Cabinet Refacing/Restoration, Lighting, Wallpapering, Plumbing, Heating & A/C, Auto Service, Auto Tires, Allergy & Immunology

It's the time of year when the winter weather can take a toll. Follow this winter maintenance checklist to protect your home, your car and your health.

Newly installed circuit breaker box in a home

Replacing an old circuit breaker box merits the expense — for a number of reasons.

Solar power panels
Heating & A/C, Electrical, Solar Panels

Homeowners should install green energy before the end of 2016 for a 30 percent tax credit.

Angie's Answers

Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).


As I understand it, you are looking at putting in a fan where there is no ceiling electric outlet. Since I am not sure, will try to break out piece by piece, undersanding these wouyld all be lumped into one job (possibly excluding wiring new outlet and switch). I hate to be so general, but access is the key here - if access is easy and there is a suitable light switch in the same room, cost can be at the low end of this range. If assess is poor and you don't want holes knocked in your drywall, then get more expensive real fast.

1) cost of fan typically $125-250 unless high end model

2) remove existing regular 4" box, install supports to joists and new box (ceiling fans need specially supported boxes due to the extra weight and swaying motion of the fans) $50-75

3) tap electric from existing circuit at existing box, upgrade existing light switch box to add one or two more switches (Adjustable for fan speed, 2nd for light, if so equipped), run wiring to ceiling fixture $125-250

4) put up fan, connect, test $75-100

So - total About $250-425 with no box there now, plus cost of fixture. A simple install to replace an existing fan, or install where the ceiling box was wired for a fan, would be only about $75-100.

This all assumes the existing nearby electric circuit can handle the addition of the fan - if not, then wiring cost will go up. It also assumes there is access via open attic or joists to install the wiring. Otherwise, installation cost OK but does NOT include repair to holes in drywall or ceiling to pull wiring.

Note also that an existing ceiling light box would probably NOT fill the bill - code in almost all jurisdictions requires 12 ga wire for fan motors, most household circuits are 14 or 16 gauge, so would need new wire pulled from a circuit with adequate capacity.

Get bids ! I worked on one job where the owner in a high-end house decided to put in fans with fancy candeliers underneath after construction was done - cost almost $3000 to do installation because all the wall and ceilings were finished in a high-end finish, so all wire pulling had to be done remotely - including removing siding to put in pull boxes at changes of direction and fasten conduit to studs. PLAN AHEAD !



Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.


An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.


A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.


Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.


If you already have a fixture there, around $100 plus or minus about $30 if not over 7 or 30 pounds, or about $200-300 if weighs over about 7 or 30 pounds. The 7 or 30 pound ranges are dependent on whether the existing box is plastic or a standard Square-D type or equivalent metal one, because each type of box can only hold so much weight. If existing box is rated 70 pounds or more (ceiling fan or large chandelier rated) then the $100 range should do it regardless.


I am assuming when you say mini-pendants you meant from a single box if more than one. If you meant two separate by some feet, add probably about $100 more to add a second box, ASSUMING they will both be run off the same single switch.


IF you do NOT have a light fixture there now, then can run from $150-300 range if there is easy access from above (open attic) to $500 or more if has to tear into drywall to install wiring and box so you then have to get drywall contractor and painter in to repair the damages.

Electrician reviews in Mcclellanville


The lights in the house were dimming and when I called the power company, they said they wouldn't come out until the electricity was checked by an electrician that I hire. The D&L electrician came on time and over the next hour, checked all the circuits, finding no problems.

$49 for an hour of labor is a good deal but when
Mcclellanville Electricians Provider Name Locked
came out they wanted a ton of money for
Mcclellanville Electricians Provider Name Locked
services. They wanted $115 to replace a socket that costs under $10 at Home Depot. They wanted $415 to look at a faulty socket!!! They wanted $415 to look at a spare room where there is a short somewhere. This was not to fixit but just to look at it! They did end up replacing 5 sockets with the outlets I'd provided and charging me the ridiculous $115 for the socket they provided. The electrician did not clear up after himself. I did not enjoy my first Angie's list special deal
- Emma S.

This work was for our vacation home in Galveston.
Mcclellanville Electricians Provider Name Locked
arrived on time with 4-man crew. 2 electricians replaced breaker panel while other 2 began installation of additional lighting. All work went as expected and I was pleased with their professionalism. We went out for dinner and when we returned the external flood was off. We had specified a dusk-to-dawn
Mcclellanville Electricians Provider Name Locked
fixture for an additional price but a motion activated light was installed. I called the next day and an electrician came out but the fixture installed could not be set for dusk-to-dawn. He promised to get the correct fixture and come back to swap it out in a couple of days which was OK with me.
I have not been back to check if the fixture has been installed. If not, I will revise this review.

Mcclellanville Electricians Provider Name Locked
Mcclellanville Electricians Provider Name Locked
arrived promptly at our residency and appeared to be efficient to begin with, but as time went on, they were unable to solve some of the issues we had with our transformers that operated our water feature and the low voltage lighting. The two brothers got their father to come over and assess the situation. They did pick up the supplies available to them at the time and we payed for them with a credit card. My understanding is that they had to order a timer for one of the transformers, so that project has not been completed as of yet. First thing on Monday morning I am going to contact the electrical supply store to see if they did in fact order the necessary parts to complete the project. I am also going to see if those folks have a different phone number for Mr.
Mcclellanville Electricians Provider Name Locked
. I am disappointed in the quality of their work and the fact that they are avoiding our phone calls. I do not think they are acting in a professional manner.
- Mary C.

I've been cleaning out my kitchen sink for years when it gets plugged with no problem. These guys made an appointment the same day and fixed it, with no problem or extra charges. Highly recommend and that says a lot for a guy who doesn't use plumbers.
- Daniel B.

- Philippe V.

I get annoyed when I read horrible reviews and realize that the reviewer didn't even have any services performed. Admittedly, if you look at the
Mcclellanville Electricians Provider Name Locked
reviews, they're all "A"s - when they've actually dome some work. But if you look a little more closely you will note a prior "F" review that suggests that they have absolutely no desire to honor the "Electrician for a Day" big deal. I had exactly the same experience and given the effort I went through to connect with them, they deserve another "F." I got the canned e-mail response right away. I responded via e-mail, explained that I needed to talk to an electrician, gave them all my phone numbers and asked them to have someone call me. Crickets, for over a week. I got the impression that they expected to just show up for the day, take an hour going over what I wanted, go to Home Depot for two hours to buy a 110 outlet, then take lunch and then work for two hours. I wanted to make sure the electrician knew what I wanted ahead of time and that I would have everything he needed so when he showed up for the day he could go to work. When I finally talked to an electrician, it appeared that all might yet turn out well. It turned out he lived right in my neighborhood and he told me it would be no problem to stop by on his way home from work. We made an appointment, I waited around, and he stood me up. Believe it or not, I still gave them the benefit of the doubt (but by now I was on "day 28" and I contacted Angie's list to have my "30 days" extended just in case), and I made one last ditch, good-faith effort to make something happen. I talked to the receptionist in the office (again), gave her all of my phone numbers (again) and asked her to please have the no-show electrician call me. I waited another week with no response and called Angie's list to cancel the "Big Deal." If I hadn't called to extend the 30 days, I would have been stuck with them. I don't know about anyone else, but I dread having to deal with contractors and my experience has been that if things start off on the wrong foot, it only gets worse. Would you use these guys? I hope they read this review. I can understand how an electrician might not be too thrilled to work for a day for four hundred bucks, but when I finally talked to the receptionist I explained right up front that ultimately, I wanted to have all of the lighting in my entire house redone. I have to say most of the contractors I have used, sight unseen through Angie's list have been GREAT. But otherwise I have had a lot of lousy experiences with contractors so excuse me if I wanted to get a $400 day with these guys before using them for such a big (for me anyway) job. I had A LOT of stuff that I thought I was finally on the road to getting done. Now over another month has gone by and I have to gin up the courage to start over with another contractor crap shoot. "F" all the way.
- William H.

Do you need an electrician? Well,
Mcclellanville Electricians Provider Name Locked
is the man to call. Everything about
Mcclellanville Electricians Provider Name Locked
is first-class. We plan to call them back to do other things we've been thinking about.
Mcclellanville Electricians Provider Name Locked
projected professionalism from the first time we talked on the phone. I was confident immediately that he was the right choice and my opinion has only improved from there. They arrived promptly when promised, and got right to work. They offered good advice, worked efficiently and neatly - left everything in perfect condition - and this was a job that required drilling thru a cement garage wall, some digging, and then wiring. It was all done well. And they were friendly and a pleasure to have around! What more could I ask? The lamp does everything we'd hoped it would, too. It looks great, and lights up stairs and a path that were a hazard at night. I'm really happy to have taken that deal offered and met them, so now I have someone I can call with confidence for other work.
- William D.

Electricians in Mcclellanville, SC

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

1 Source Services of SC

3503 Palm Blvd
Isle Of Palms

1-Stop Unlimited

160 2 Hitch Rd
Goose Creek

3H Mechanical & Electrical,LLC

3248 Landing Parkway
North Charleston

A Better Home Improvement

213 E. Edgefield Dr.

A&A Remodeling

1821 Manigault Place

A&P Transmissions And Auto Services LLC

500 N. Magnolia St.

A-1 Handyman, LLC

1573 Terns Nest Rd.

Affordable Handyman Services

211 Pemberly Blvd.

Ahearn Construction LLC

206 Glebe Rd

Alexander Technical Resources

1263 Glenwood Ave. SE

Alliance Mechanical

1037 Trotters Blvd

Andy Oncall

2382 W Aviation Ave

Anything, LLC

6650 rivers avenue

Appmet Inc.

7308 Peppermill Pkwy
North Charleston


PO BOX 41347



Benchmark Renovations

Mount Pleasant

Blanton's Mechanical & Son's

Charleston PO Box: 33851

BP Services LLC

667 Ponderosa Drive

Bradford Audio, LLC

61 Vincent Drive
Mount Pleasant

Brinson Connection LLC

813 Williamsburg Ln

Brinson Services

5667 Dixie Plantation Rd



Bulls Bay Boat and Trailer Repair

4720 Causey Pond Rd

Business Telecommunications

3068 Morningdale Drive
Mount Pleasant

C LED Lighting

8655 Bentwood Dr

Carolina Services Inc.

1384 Remount Rd.

Carter & Thompson Heating and Air

1216 Dowden St

CB Murray Construction LLC

PO Box 50382


PO Box 129
Goose Creek

Charleston Electric

1524 Shandon St

Ciappa Home Concepts

Mount Pleasant

Clean Cut Of Charleston

2245-C Ashley Crossing Road

coastal remodeling llc

2569 leath ct

Commonwealth Contracting LLC

809 Saint Dennis Dr

Contemporary Kitchen and Bath

2051 Infantry Dr
Mount Pleasant

Degges Bros Renovation and Remodeling

206 frances st
Goose Creek

Delaney Electrical

930 Hawthorne Lane Ext
Rock Hill


North Charleston

E.D. Wright Electric LLC

4010 Carolina Bay Dr.
Moncks Corner

EastCoast House Doctors

560 Crossland Dr
Moncks Corner


1836 Ashley River Rd.

EK Services. LLC

3591 Bayou Rd.
Johns Island

Elevation Electric

10442 Highway 78 E.

Elite Industrial Services, LLC

2004 Tail Race Dr
Moncks Corner

Express Sunrooms

187 Farmington Road

Floyd's Contracting Service

2658 South Island Dr
North Charleston

Four Sons

821 E. Estates Blvd


1629 Meeting Street rd

Geer Plumbing, Heating and Air

113 Rail Dr.

Gillum Development

10 1/2 Larnes St.

Goodman's Electrical Services

105 Monarch Dr

Handy Andy Electric

1833 Bowens Island Dr.

Handy Andy Electric

1833 Bowens Island Rd.

hertz residential electri

8159 Sherbrooke Lane
North Charleston

Holy City Boat Works

po box 1576



Home Depot

7554 Northwood Blvd

Home Services of Mount Pleasant

290 Commonwealth Rd
Mount Pleasant

House Doctors Handyman of Charleston

1220 Yeamans Hall Road

Hunt Electric

4942 Amberwood Lane
North Charleston

Hunter Mechanical

717 Getaway Lane

Illuminating Landscapes

106 Pine Ct


Moncks Corner

JC Handyman Services

174 Hammock St


Mt Pleasant


Moncks Corner

Joe's Garage Auto Sales and Service

1395 Stuart Engals Blvd
Mount Pleasant

Johns Island Remodeling, LLC

2517 Otter Ln
Johns Island

Kahler Construction Co LLC

309 W 2nd N St

Kelly Builders Carolina LLC

716 Carolina Blvd
Isle Of Palms

Kiawah Services

PO Box 140
Johns Island

Kitchen Tune-Up

1105 Rearick Rd
John’S Island

Kylend's Creations

8179 Long Shadow Lane
North Charleston

Lawson Construction Co

PO Box 1692
Mount Pleasant

LCEDS Electrical Services

185 Wentworth

Liberty Services

404 Parkdale Dr



McClellan & Clanton LLC

220 Dragbottom Way

Mister Sparky

1929 Belgrade Ave


62 Brigade St

Morrison Automotive & Truck

10550 Highway 78 E

Mr. Handyman of Charleston

2176 Savannah Hwy

Myers Heating & A/C LLC

1150 Hungryneck Blvd
Mount Pleasant

New Power Electrical Services

250 Stefan Dr


764 Whispering Marsh Drive

NorthStar Automotive and Performance

1631 Remount Rd
North Charleston



R. E. Evans

1258 Woodduck Dr.


44 Wespanee Drive

Repairs by Bart

Goose Creek

Residential Tech Inc

94 Kings Mill Ct

Revels & Son

6216 Murray Drive

RLT Electrical Contractors

5822 Robinson St



SC Property Pros, LLC

1830 Savannah Hwy


405 N Maple St Ste A7

Shocking Electrical Service

148 Dorchester Manor Blvd
North Charleston

Skipper's Professional Repairs

3279 Sassy Drive
Johns Island


P.O. Box 1067

SouthEast Electrical LLC

3642 savannah Hwy suite 116 unit 307

Spivey & Sparks Construction

P.O. 12247

St. John's Building Consultants

2951 Blackfish Road
Johns Island


North Charleston

Sunview General Contracting Inc

760 Travelers Blvd

Tadan Construction LLC

135 Northpark Ave

The Electric Medic

Carolina Forest Blvd.
Myrtle Beach

The Repair Guys

7523 Whispering Oak Dr

The Student Handyman

134 Oakside Dr
Goose Creek

VZ Construction

859 Joe Rivers Rd


12637 S 265 W Suite 100

Wrenn Electric LLC

718 East 3rd North St

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