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answered my initial call promptly, was very responsive and friendly. He was punctual and efficient when coming to my house to provide a quote." Later when scheduling the work to be done, he was flexible. He called and was apologetic when he was called out of town for a family issue at the last minute and the men working for him who came to complete the work were professional and completed the work efficiently with little mess. I would definitely call him again.

-Sheela B.

"It all went very well.
quickly identified the circuit break even though a friend of mine (who had worked with electricity for many years)" could not.
was very friendly and took his time to explain some wiring techniques to help me with a project. When I reach to the point in my project where I'm ready to connect, I definitely will pay
to inspect my work and make the final connections.

-James K.

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Local Articles in Mcclellanville

Hiring an Electrician

Good electricians require extensive training and continuing education to keep up with constantly changing technology. Your residential electrical contractor provides an important service to keep your home running safely and smoothly, so you want to hire the best possible person. Read this Homeowner's Guide to Hiring an Electrician to learn more before you hire.

Common Electrical Problems

Although the potential dangers of electrocution and fire should make most homeowners wary of do-it-yourself electrical projects, there are some basic electric troubleshooting tips that can help when you are experiencing issues.

outlets installed on kitchen counter
Interior Design & Decorating, Electrical

Homes are often constructed with just the minimum required amount of outlets for each area.

firefighter at controlled burn in Indianapolis
Remodeling - General, Electrical, Chimney Sweep

Thirty seconds is the length of most television commercials. It’s also the length of time it takes for a fire to get out of control in your home.

GFCI outlet on a glass tile wall

Your hair dryer, TV, refrigerator, electric heater — all were working just fine, until the outlet went dead.

jumble of colored electrical wires (Photo by Brandon Smith)

All home electrical wires made in the U.S. follow standard color codes that identify each wire's function in a circuit.

Angie's Answers

Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).


As I understand it, you are looking at putting in a fan where there is no ceiling electric outlet. Since I am not sure, will try to break out piece by piece, undersanding these wouyld all be lumped into one job (possibly excluding wiring new outlet and switch). I hate to be so general, but access is the key here - if access is easy and there is a suitable light switch in the same room, cost can be at the low end of this range. If assess is poor and you don't want holes knocked in your drywall, then get more expensive real fast.

1) cost of fan typically $125-250 unless high end model

2) remove existing regular 4" box, install supports to joists and new box (ceiling fans need specially supported boxes due to the extra weight and swaying motion of the fans) $50-75

3) tap electric from existing circuit at existing box, upgrade existing light switch box to add one or two more switches (Adjustable for fan speed, 2nd for light, if so equipped), run wiring to ceiling fixture $125-250

4) put up fan, connect, test $75-100

So - total About $250-425 with no box there now, plus cost of fixture. A simple install to replace an existing fan, or install where the ceiling box was wired for a fan, would be only about $75-100.

This all assumes the existing nearby electric circuit can handle the addition of the fan - if not, then wiring cost will go up. It also assumes there is access via open attic or joists to install the wiring. Otherwise, installation cost OK but does NOT include repair to holes in drywall or ceiling to pull wiring.

Note also that an existing ceiling light box would probably NOT fill the bill - code in almost all jurisdictions requires 12 ga wire for fan motors, most household circuits are 14 or 16 gauge, so would need new wire pulled from a circuit with adequate capacity.

Get bids ! I worked on one job where the owner in a high-end house decided to put in fans with fancy candeliers underneath after construction was done - cost almost $3000 to do installation because all the wall and ceilings were finished in a high-end finish, so all wire pulling had to be done remotely - including removing siding to put in pull boxes at changes of direction and fasten conduit to studs. PLAN AHEAD !



Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.


An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.


A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.


Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.


If you already have a fixture there, around $100 plus or minus about $30 if not over 7 or 30 pounds, or about $200-300 if weighs over about 7 or 30 pounds. The 7 or 30 pound ranges are dependent on whether the existing box is plastic or a standard Square-D type or equivalent metal one, because each type of box can only hold so much weight. If existing box is rated 70 pounds or more (ceiling fan or large chandelier rated) then the $100 range should do it regardless.


I am assuming when you say mini-pendants you meant from a single box if more than one. If you meant two separate by some feet, add probably about $100 more to add a second box, ASSUMING they will both be run off the same single switch.


IF you do NOT have a light fixture there now, then can run from $150-300 range if there is easy access from above (open attic) to $500 or more if has to tear into drywall to install wiring and box so you then have to get drywall contractor and painter in to repair the damages.

Electrical reviews in Mcclellanville


Mcclellanville Electricians Provider Name Locked
was very professional, friendly and timely. Arrived on time, installed devices quickly and efficiently. Cleaned up afterwards. Very friendly! Final price as quoted. Will definately use again for all my electrical work!!!
- Joseph W.

They did a great job, were very punctual and got the job done pretty quickly, even though they were operating on an agreed hourly rate. For small jobs, they don't quote a fixed price, but perform on an hourly basis. We were happy that they agreed to do the job on short notice (about a week), even though it was pretty small. Would definitely use them again.
- Charles R.

I bought the deal on Friday, received communication on Tuesday and he was here on Wednesday.... I had an outside electric outlet on my deck which stopped working about a year ago. I do remember checking the GFCI's in the house and it not helping, but
Mcclellanville Electricians Provider Name Locked
thinks it was a tripped GFCI. In any case, my outlet was old and had individual covers for each outlet... one of which had broken apart. Now I have a new one which looks much nicer. I overpaid, but that is my fault for purchasing the deal for a new outlet when all I needed was to have it replaced.
Mcclellanville Electricians Provider Name Locked
's Law would have it that if I hadn't done it this way then something would have gone wrong and I would have needed an entire new one installed there anyway. :)

Probably the most professional service I have ever received on my home. We have had electrical issues for years and even though several of the repairs were
Mcclellanville Electricians Provider Name Locked
in nature, they pointed out some very big issues and repaired the original shoddy construction. Their price was very fair given the amount of work and time they put in. Gave detailed explanations and
Mcclellanville Electricians Provider Name Locked
on every repair. This is the only electrician I will ever call again in the future!! Thank you
Mcclellanville Electricians Provider Name Locked
- Nicole R.

The install of my new panel and all additional work went very smoothly. I was very happy with the knowledge and professionalism of the electrician(s) and crew members. They were punctual and offered suggestions on additional work I will want to have done in the future. I would recommend this company to anyone needing electrical work and I will definitely be using them again.
- Kathie W.

They did an excellent job. The only fault I could find was they didn't plan well on keeping the insulation from coming out of the attic while they made holes for the cans. Big mess.

- Jack P.

Thanks to all that have written reviews on
Mcclellanville Electricians Provider Name Locked
. You are the reason I chose this company. I highly recommend
Mcclellanville Electricians Provider Name Locked
. and will definitely call them in the future for my electrical needs.
Last evening I realized my A/C had stopped working and temp was rising in the house. I have a 93 year old Mom who is very ill and bed ridden. The breaker had tripped and when I reset, it made a terrible noise and immediately tripped again. I assumed it was the breaker as this is an older home. I logged on to Angie's List and looked for an electrician I felt I could trust and I sent an email. I called around 7:30 am this morning and left an voice mail explaining the critical situation with my Mom.
Mcclellanville Electricians Provider Name Locked
returned my call at 8:03 and made arrangements to send an electrician,
Mcclellanville Electricians Provider Name Locked
, to our home mid morning. She was very sensitive and responsive to the situation with my Mom. This company knows and believes in customer service.
Mcclellanville Electricians Provider Name Locked
called 30 mins ahead as she said he would, was on time, and very professional. He worked quickly and determined that in fact I did NOT need new breakers, but let me know he believed it was my A/C Compressor. He could have changed out the breaker and charged me. However, he said the breakers looked good and I called the A/C company.
As I said - I highly recommend. They are honest, professional, and completely customer focused.
Thank you
Mcclellanville Electricians Provider Name Locked
Mcclellanville Electricians Provider Name Locked
for the great work.
- Brenda M.

Two workman showed up. One was an apparent electrician the other apparently his helper. I told them what I wanted done; e.g., the installation of a light fixture in the kitchen or the installation of two electrical outlets or a hall light connected to an already existing adjacent light switch. The kitchen light work appeared to be too complicated and they did not have the parts on their truck to install the electric switches. They left and returned on a later date. I had the two men take down and install a new ceiling fan in
Mcclellanville Electricians Provider Name Locked
of the other work. The ceiling fan works fine. It took about 45 minutes to install. I hired a different contractor who got the work done in a professional manner.
- Rod C.

Electricians in Mcclellanville, SC

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

1 Source Services of SC

3503 Palm Blvd
Isle Of Palms

1-Stop Unlimited

160 2 Hitch Rd
Goose Creek

A Better Home Improvement

213 E. Edgefield Dr.

A&A Remodeling

1821 Manigault Place

A&P Transmissions And Auto Services LLC

500 N. Magnolia St.

A-1 Handyman, LLC

1573 Terns Nest Rd.

Affordable Electrical Services

107 Frank St

Affordable Handyman Services

211 Pemberly Blvd.

Ahearn Construction LLC

206 Glebe Rd

Alexander Technical Resources

1263 Glenwood Ave. SE

All About It

PO Box 223

Alliance Mechanical

1037 Trotters Blvd

Andy Oncall

2382 W Aviation Ave

Appmet Inc.

7308 Peppermill Pkwy
North Charleston

Ash Electric Inc.

748 Hunt Club Run


PO BOX 41347


Mount Pleasant

Barney's Home Repairs

114 Winding Rock Rd
Goose Creek



Blanton's Mechanical & Son's

Charleston PO Box: 33851

Bradford Audio, LLC

61 Vincent Drive
Mount Pleasant

Brinson Connection LLC

813 Williamsburg Ln

Brinson Services

5667 Dixie Plantation Rd



C LED Lighting

8655 Bentwood Dr

Captain Electric

7360 Industry Dr
North Charleston

Carter & Thompson Heating and Air

1216 Dowden St

CB Murray Construction LLC

PO Box 50382


PO Box 129
Goose Creek

Charleston Electric

1524 Shandon St

Cheryl Lynn Designs, LLC.

16 Mapleleaf Drive


1005 Trident St

Chucktown Renovations

84 N Market St

Ciappa Home Concepts

Mount Pleasant

Clean Cut Of Charleston

2245-C Ashley Crossing Road

Clifford Home Improvement

1522 S Live Oak Dr
Moncks Corner

coastal remodeling llc

2569 leath ct

Commonwealth Contracting LLC

809 Saint Dennis Dr

Contemporary Kitchen and Bath

2051 Infantry Dr
Mount Pleasant

DB Electrical Services LLC

PO Box 31695

Delaney Electrical

930 Hawthorne Lane Ext
Rock Hill


North Charleston

Delta Mechanical Inc

2486 Lawrenceville Hwy

EastCoast House Doctors

560 Crossland Dr
Moncks Corner

Edgewater Energy Services

7320 Industry Drive
North Charleston

Electric Supply Co

3225 Pacific St
North Charleston

Elevation Electric

10442 Highway 78 E.

Elite Industrial Services, LLC

2004 Tail Race Dr
Moncks Corner

Express Sunrooms

187 Farmington Road

Exquisite Designs

47332 Sterdley Falls

First John llc Remodeling/Repairs

1212 Merganser Ct.
Mount Pleasant

First Team Construction

1110 Pinefield Dr

Four Sons

821 E. Estates Blvd


1629 Meeting Street rd

Gillum Development

10 1/2 Larnes St.

Goodman's Electrical Services

105 Monarch Dr

Grounded Electrical Solutions LLC

8622 Aurora Dr.
North Charleston/Summerville

Handy Andy Electric

1833 Bowens Island Dr.

Handy Andy Electric

1833 Bowens Island Rd.

Handyman Connection - Charleston

2154 N Center St
North Charleston

hertz residential electri

8159 Sherbrooke Lane
North Charleston

Holy City Boat Works

po box 1576



Home Depot

7554 Northwood Blvd

Home Services of Mount Pleasant

290 Commonwealth Rd
Mount Pleasant

Hunt Electric

4942 Amberwood Lane
North Charleston

Hunter Mechanical

717 Getaway Lane


Moncks Corner

JC Handyman Services

174 Hammock St


Mt Pleasant


Moncks Corner

Joe's Garage Auto Sales and Service

1395 Stuart Engals Blvd
Mount Pleasant

Johns Island Remodeling, LLC

2517 Otter Ln
Johns Island

Just Right Improvements,LLC

1227 Hawthorne Rd.

Kahler Construction Co LLC

309 W 2nd N St

Kelly Builders Carolina LLC

716 Carolina Blvd
Isle Of Palms

Kiawah Services

PO Box 140
Johns Island

Kitchen Tune-Up

1105 Rearick Rd
John’S Island

Kylend's Creations

8179 Long Shadow Lane
North Charleston

L & M Electric

2567 Oscar Johnson Dr
North Charleston

Lawson Construction Co

PO Box 1692
Mount Pleasant

LCEDS Electrical Services

185 Wentworth

Leslie's Roofing LLC

6220 Falcon Ln

Liberty Services

404 Parkdale Dr



MC Services

1771 Eutaw Road


551 Rosings Drive

Mister Sparky

1929 Belgrade Ave


5529 N Rhett Ave


62 Brigade St

Moore's Electrical Services LLC

1906 Houghton Dr

Morrison Automotive & Truck

10550 Hwy 78 E

Mr. Handyman of Charleston

2176 Savannah Hwy


Mount Pleasant

Myers Heating & A/C LLC

1150 Hungryneck Blvd
Mount Pleasant

New Power Electrical Services

250 Stefan Dr


764 Whispering Marsh Drive

NorthStar Automotive and Performance

1631 Remount Rd
North Charleston



Quality Tile and Flooring

2494 Etiwan ave. # i 1

R & R Remodeling & Restoration

909 Trailmore Cir

R. E. Evans

1258 Woodduck Dr.


44 Wespanee Drive

Renewable Engineered Systems

22 East Church Street

Repairs by Bart

Goose Creek

Revels & Son

6216 Murray Drive

RLT Electrical Contractors

5822 Robinson St


1860 Cornish Ave



Roberts Home & Yard Service, LLC

1000 Palm Boulevard, # 123
Isle Of Palms

Rock Creek Craftsmen Inc

825 Lowcountry Blvd
Mount Pleasant

SC Property Pros, LLC

1830 Savannah Hwy


405 N Maple St Ste A7

Shocking Electrical Service

148 Dorchester Manor Blvd
North Charleston


P.O. Box 1067

Spivey & Sparks Construction

P.O. 12247

St. John's Building Consultants

2963 Blackfish Road
Johns Island

Steve's Service

730 Durango Lane

Stonestreet Electrical Services LLC

1816 Belle Chez
Mount Pleasant


North Charleston

Suesser Electric

262 Apache Dr

Sunview General Contracting Inc

760 Travelers Blvd

Tadan Construction LLC

135 Northpark Ave

The Electric Medic

Carolina Forest Blvd.
Myrtle Beach

The Repair Guys

7523 Whispering Oak Dr

The Student Handyman

134 Oakside Dr
Goose Creek

The Village Plumbing & Electric Co., LLC

978 Cliffwood Dr
Mount Pleasant

Transworld Electrical Contractors

1553 King St Ext
North Charleston

Upstate Commercial Svc

512 Old Piedmont Hwy.

W.Rick Construction

85 Munson road


12637 S 265 W Suite 100


PO Box 70866

Woodall Electric

606 25th St

Woodpeckers Carpentry LLC

2726 Starfish Dr.
Johns Island

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