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Rooks Lawn Service
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Local Articles in Florence
On this episode of Chat with the Experts, we talk with Tony "The Concrete Man" Johnson about the benefits of a concrete driveway and how to install a patio.
Repairing concrete can be a cost-effective way to maintain your driveway.
Over time, your concrete is susceptible to cracking. Here's what you can do to prevent it and protect the look of your sidewalk or driveway.
Bids are NOT done based on a multiplier on top of materials cost to get labor cost. Think of the consequences in the example you gave - by that method using say plain home depot tile made in Honduras might cost $5/SF materials, so by your method $10 labor. Now, same floor, with Carerra marble or Barre Granite at $75-100/SF - so do you want him charging you $150-200/SF labor when it takes almost exactly the same time regardless of material ?
To put it in simple terms, contractors:
1) figure the amount and cost of materials and consumables needed from the plans and specifications, applying a markup (from 15-50%, depending on contractor and how fancy or specialized a job it is).
2) Then they figure the equipment needed and the operating time to be used or elapsed time to be rented or leased - either opperating hour or elapsed time, or combination of both, especially if it consumes fuel
3) They then figure the labor time for the various trades required to do the job, maybe add an efficiency or ease of work multiplier to those hours to fit the job conditions, multiply those hours by the hourly pay rates, then multiply that times the "load" or "Labor Overhead" to account for employment taxes, workman's compensation costs, health plan, etc, etc.
4) Then they add in the cost of any architect or engineer plans or certifications that are needed, government permits and inspections, etc.
5) Then they add in any subcontractor bids, with appropriate contingency amount for each.
6) All those above totals are added up, an appropriate overall contingency added if needed (typically 5-10%, but on remote site jobs I have seen as high as 200%), and (depending on how contractor figures his costs) at least all the "in-house" costs like his equipment, consumables, and labor costs have a percentage overhead and profit added to them - typically about 100-150%. Some contractors use a lower overhead percentage but apply it to the total estimated job cost, not just in-house costs.
This "company overhead" or "general overhead" or "G&A - General and Administrative Overhead" covers the costs of financing and running the company, management and secretarial and general supply and maintenance costs, buildings and equipment yards lease or mortgage cost, working capital cost, insurance, loan interest, general shop equipment payments, profit, etc. Some contractors use a lower overhead and apply it to every cost in the job, some (especially those doing government work so havingto adhere to government accounting rules) apply a "markup percentage" to materials and rental costs and outside subcontract services, and apply G&A overhead only to in-house costs.
That being said, for a general class of work it does generally (on normal jobs) work out that there is a general multiple of labor to materials cost. For instance, yard work and residential tree work is heavy on labor, so it might have a labor to materials ratio of 3:1 or even 5:1. Detail foundation hand excavation and underpinning can run to 5:1 or more. Many types of building construction like plumbing, tile, carpentry, etc. do end up with a very roughly 2:1 or 3:1 ratio of labor to materials cost. At the other extreme, high energy efficiency or hurricane rated glass installation or a fancy full-building computer and communications system or high-end entertainment center might have a labor to materials ratio of 0.25-0.5 because it is designed to go in pretty fast, but the materials cost a lot.
For your case, a hardscaping ratio could run from 0.5:1 or less to as much as 3:1 or more, for installations with very expensive imported stone and fancy woods and a lot of bought decorative items such as statuary, to the opposite labor-intensive landscaping with lots of sidehill terracing and hand-planted flower beds, hand-dug irrigation system trenches, and manual-placed concrete block or railroad tie walls. Each job should be figured on its own merits - using a "rule-of-thumb" is where people commonly get unpleasantly surprised. That is why you typically get 3 bids unless you have a contractor you trust from prior experience and are confident will give you a fair shake regardless of being sole-sourced. Personally, both for my own purposes and professionally in the design and construction business, I have found sole-source to trusted contractors you have experience with is, in the long run, a BIG money and time saver, as well as making it far more likely to finish on schedule and let you sleep at night.
You need a general contractor - prefereably one who specializes in additions, because you have excavation, waterproofing, concrete, concrete cutting, carpentry, door and window, etc trades to coordinate.
The cost will depend a great deal on your topography around the house - if the base of the window will be above ground level at least 6 inches, then could run about $500 for a legal egress window purchase and about $1000-2000 for installation, depending on how deep into the concrete you have to cut.
If the bottom of the window will be below ground level, then to call it a bedroom (which mandates legal sized second egress and usauully at least one window) then you will have two choices - bring it out into a solid watertight concrete storm cellar with collar to keep water out, stairs, and and weather and bug-tight cellar door that is inward-opening, which means a lot of space for stairs and landings top and bottom, or bring it out into an oversized window well at least 36 inches in diameter, and with steps to ground level, with adequate drainage and waterproofing to keep it dry. Either way, sometimes about as easy to put in an outside door as a window, and might raise property value more. Cost from $2-5,000 depending on how deep into concrete wall you have to dig, whether concrete wsall needs reinforcing with steel frame because of the depth of cut, how easy the digging is, and what your water conditions are near the foundation. The last thing you want to do is create an easy water or vermin ingress with your egress.
The cost to install the veneer stone has a wide range do to many factors. It can range from around $9 to $17 per square foot. It depends on the location, the stone being used, job access, skaffolding needs, wall prep and such. I would think you would be on the lower end of the scale. Your job is on a concrete surface so it eliminates one of the biggest problems they are having with this product, wall preperation. This one of the things that separates the high bidders from the low ones. There are million dollars homes being torn down because of improper wall prep. One a wood frame house a backing system that allows drainage is a must or the moisture absorbed by the veneer can rot the walls behind with alarming speed. Some have had makor damage within the first four years. On a concrete wall the veneer needs no such prep at most wire mesh applied if it is an older concrete wall.
Concrete Repair reviews in Florence
1. Supposed to strip and sand the floor to make sure stain and sealer will adhere to concrete.
2. Stain & Seal floor and
3. Follow-Up with homeowner for approval.
All of this was completed in approximately 3+ hours (1.5 hrs drying time) per contractor
1. Floor was improperly sanded causing 6 to 8 inch shallow valleys or depressions.
2. Stain was not applied properly or to the edges of the living room floor.
3. Sealer was not applied properly leaving rough concrete still showing.
4. Floor (finished) was covered with a grit - did not have a complete satin finish.
5. From a side view you were able to see where the finish/stain was not applied properly or did not adhere to the concrete.
Then the excuses started to fly.
He agreed to come back on the 8th of October 2015. Providing that I did the following:
a. fill cracks/voids with a non-sanding grout (not sure why grout when I am working with concrete)
b. once cracks are filled - "use a grout sealer - in a Ketchup Style Bottle to make sure the grout stays in place"
c. Homeowner and I spent three hours preparing the floor as instructed.
CAMERA INSTALLED to monitor work on October 7th.
1. Note left for owner to call owner and her representative. He told her he did not need to talk to the representative (me).
2. Sanded two areas. A. in front of Fire Place and B. Exercise Room/Office.
3. Sprayed stain/sealer with a B&G bottle
4. Used a Swiff'er Mop to apply and blend stain/finish.
5. Brought in a "Polishing Machine" staying 6-8 inches away from the walls.
6. Owner inspected home and is not happy.
More excuses followed.
Excuses stopped once he found out found out all of the work performed today (8th) was on video. We are contacting the security company to download the video as part of our court action.
Time in 09:30 with roughly 1hr "drying time"
Polishing Machine" 10:45hr and out 11:05hr.
Total time to redo the floor a second time. 1hr and 35 minutes.
Photos available upon request to those wishing to see my floor.
Times are approximate (within a minute or two) until we are actually review the footage minute by minute for an exact recording time.
Trinity Junction LLC - OWNER
The team and manager surveyed several times my home to ensure no other deficiencies could be found ... they found two cracks on the outside of my old home, ground it, and
The team was cordial, on-time, professional, and always listening ... all that with a little accent from
The crew worked hard and was very polite and professional.
We were completely satisfied with the finished product.
It looks fantastic. We would highly recommend
His crewed showed up at 7:30 am on the morning of demolition (I'm still apologizing to my neighbors for the early morning banging as they tore out the driveway - LOL). The 2nd and 3rd days they were there early as well and worked pretty much non-stop until dusk. They were polite, very hard working and cleaned up after themselves. They washed off the house where the concrete dust had settled and picked up their own garbage. They put our yard back together as well.
We are so pleased with the finished project! It is a great match with our house color. I love that it's colored and not a
Tavake and his team know what they are doing!
Because of the height of the slab at the back to level they didn't put wood retainer around to hold the cement in but push dirt up to height of 1foot and concrete was s*** out everywhere therefore giving the sides a bad look in which cost more to repair. When I last saw them the contractors said they would repair the slab but after many phone calls and voice mails they never returned my calls. I supplied the gravel, rebar and mesh, Visqueen vapor
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