Blythewood Electricians

in Blythewood, SC

164
Electricians are
in Blythewood

57
Electricians in Blythewood
are top rated

A
Rated by
Patrick L.
"
and his team are great. Everyone clearly enjoys their work (or they are really good actors) and they stuck to their schedule. When they said they'd be" somewhere, or if a job would take a certain amount of time. They were there and they got the job done. You certainly get what you pay for with this group, I'm used to doing a bit of cleanup afterwards when I resort to hiring contractors when the job exceeds my DIY skill set and time... but besides taking a paint brush to the few patches that were made when running something like 2000 feet of Cat6 through my house it was seamless and some rooms ended up looking better after they got the job done. Highly recommended.
A
Rated by
John L.
"Everything went great. First he verified that there was an issue with the circuit breaker box which needed to be fixed by ComEd. Then he installed some box light in my ceiling. " Everything was done very efficiently and professionally.
C
Rated by
Dia R.
"I received a large estimate bill for electric work needed. Although my son asked me for specific information on areas of concern in the house and what they said about the cause of common" electrial socket overloads that cause the electricity to blow out and need to reset; in the basement bedroom and kitchen. I can only remember parts of what was said at the time so I would have to ask more questions on items of concern and the estimate work if and when I have the work done. There was also some items of concern which may have to be handled sooner than later so I will be following up with question and possibly hiring this company.

Local Articles in Blythewood

Winter guide

The Angie's List Guide to Winter Maintenance

It's the time of year when the winter weather can take a toll. Follow this winter maintenance checklist to protect your home, your car and your health.

Ryan Electric owner Pat Ryan says he always makes sure clients inspect his work and are satisfied before he leaves a job. (Photo courtesy of Brody Ryan)

Hiring an Electrician

Since the days of Thomas Edison, the practical applications of electricity have become exponentially more complex. Becoming an electrician requires extensive training and continuing education to keep up with technology that changes constantly. Read this Homeowner's Guide to Hiring an Electrician to learn more before you hire.

One LED can last up to 50,000 hours, the equivalent of 42 60-watt incandescent bulbs. (Photo by Hugh Vandivier)
Lighting, Electrical

LED lights are quickly becoming popular choices for interior home lighting, but can they really compete with incandescent bulbs? Are there any downsides to using light-emitting diodes?

Outdoor holiday lighting, LED holiday lighting
Electrical, Holiday Decorating, Garage Doors

When hanging holiday lights, the safest power source is the nearest outlet. If that’s not possible, look for an appropriate extension cord or a power stake.

Hugh Vandivier
Lighting, Electrical

Those familiar incandescent bulbs are being phased out, replaced by new, more energy-efficient bulbs. But what's behind compact fluorescent lights (CFLs) and light-emitting diodes (LEDs)?

Electrical work is extremely dangerous, so make sure you hire a licensed pro for work around the home.
Electrical

If you discover that you have an old Federal Pacific breaker box, a faulty circuit breaker or an outdated fuse box, how much can you expect to pay to have a qualified electrician replace it?

Angie's Answers

?
Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.
?

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

?

As I understand it, you are looking at putting in a fan where there is no ceiling electric outlet. Since I am not sure, will try to break out piece by piece, undersanding these wouyld all be lumped into one job (possibly excluding wiring new outlet and switch). I hate to be so general, but access is the key here - if access is easy and there is a suitable light switch in the same room, cost can be at the low end of this range. If assess is poor and you don't want holes knocked in your drywall, then get more expensive real fast.

1) cost of fan typically $125-250 unless high end model

2) remove existing regular 4" box, install supports to joists and new box (ceiling fans need specially supported boxes due to the extra weight and swaying motion of the fans) $50-75

3) tap electric from existing circuit at existing box, upgrade existing light switch box to add one or two more switches (Adjustable for fan speed, 2nd for light, if so equipped), run wiring to ceiling fixture $125-250

4) put up fan, connect, test $75-100

So - total About $250-425 with no box there now, plus cost of fixture. A simple install to replace an existing fan, or install where the ceiling box was wired for a fan, would be only about $75-100.

This all assumes the existing nearby electric circuit can handle the addition of the fan - if not, then wiring cost will go up. It also assumes there is access via open attic or joists to install the wiring. Otherwise, installation cost OK but does NOT include repair to holes in drywall or ceiling to pull wiring.

Note also that an existing ceiling light box would probably NOT fill the bill - code in almost all jurisdictions requires 12 ga wire for fan motors, most household circuits are 14 or 16 gauge, so would need new wire pulled from a circuit with adequate capacity.

Get bids ! I worked on one job where the owner in a high-end house decided to put in fans with fancy candeliers underneath after construction was done - cost almost $3000 to do installation because all the wall and ceilings were finished in a high-end finish, so all wire pulling had to be done remotely - including removing siding to put in pull boxes at changes of direction and fasten conduit to studs. PLAN AHEAD !

 

?

Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.

?

An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.

 

A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.

 

Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.

?

If you already have a fixture there, around $100 plus or minus about $30 if not over 7 or 30 pounds, or about $200-300 if weighs over about 7 or 30 pounds. The 7 or 30 pound ranges are dependent on whether the existing box is plastic or a standard Square-D type or equivalent metal one, because each type of box can only hold so much weight. If existing box is rated 70 pounds or more (ceiling fan or large chandelier rated) then the $100 range should do it regardless.

 

I am assuming when you say mini-pendants you meant from a single box if more than one. If you meant two separate by some feet, add probably about $100 more to add a second box, ASSUMING they will both be run off the same single switch.

 

IF you do NOT have a light fixture there now, then can run from $150-300 range if there is easy access from above (open attic) to $500 or more if has to tear into drywall to install wiring and box so you then have to get drywall contractor and painter in to repair the damages.

Electrical reviews in Blythewood

A

Rating
We contacted
Blythewood Electricians Provider Name Locked
when our exterior lamp post stopped working and also asked him about several other items. He came out, looked at each of them, and gave us suggestions. We then scheduled the repairs to fix the lamp post, ceiling fan, and exhaust fan/light. He arrived on-time and explained each of the repairs. He is extremely friendly and very knowledgeable.
- Melissa J.
B

Rating
Provider was nice and did a good job. Few things i felt weren't up to snuff:
1) Warranty on parts were only 30 days unless i paid for "better" parts. Really 30 days?
2 ) After the provider left, i noticed there were MVP stickers on my stuff everywhere
- on the A/C unit
- on the box on the outside of my house going to the A/C unit
- on my electrical panel
- on my duct work for my furnace.
I felt like I'd been "marked" like a dog would
Blythewood Electricians Provider Name Locked
its territory. If i like a provider i will use them again and its NOT because of the stickers they leave at my premises.


- Charles B.
C

Rating
The persons scheduling the appointment were very professional. It was a two person job. The electrician doing the inside wiring was polite. The person doing he trenching seemed very irritated, kept swearing while doing his work and left the area in a very condition. I would not recommend this company.
- Ferdinand A.
A

Rating
It went absolutely amazing. Communication started via email (very convenient for me) and he came for a site visit/scope of work needed. Fast follow up (same day) with quote via email. Accommodated my schedule for the appointment.
Blythewood Electricians Provider Name Locked
and his dad came on time and they were on a mission. I had a work emergency and had to leave. Felt the house was in perfect hands. Went out of his way to accommodate my wishes and even had to come back later to finish the last room (he couldn't finish it, because my cats were locked in there and I asked him not to enter it.). Even though he had to drive back he didn't change the bill and stuck to the original quote.
Blythewood Electricians Provider Name Locked
and his dad finished the job in record time, were extremely polite and professional. They worked very clean and went out of their way to leave the place clean.
Thanks Angie's List for helping me find such a pro that offered premium work for a fair price.
One thing is clear: I will hire
Blythewood Electricians Provider Name Locked
back!
- Ali A.
A

Rating
OMG, it was a huge decision to spend that much on flooring in a small garden apt but it was the right thing to do. Friends and family love it!!! It's the best decision I made during my renovations. I've just been using it a bit so far as it's been warm but I know it will be fabulous as the winter weather kicks in.
Blythewood Electricians Provider Name Locked
is the electrical wizard and
Blythewood Electricians Provider Name Locked
follows up with tiles. Both have worked together for years, have great personalities and you can tell because it turns out great. If you ever wondered if it's worth treating yourself to a warm floor, it is and
Blythewood Electricians Provider Name Locked
are the ones to work with. THANK YOU!
- Irene F.
B

Rating
Fairly well. We have quite a bit of patching to do where wires were looked for in the ceiling near the electrical box. Apparently the
Blythewood Electricians Provider Name Locked
plugin is upside down from what is now standard.
- BONNIE P.
A

Rating
The provider was very responsive and professional and quick with the installations. I am keeping his card and we will definitely use his services again and will refer the provider to our friends and family.
- BETH C.

All Electricians in Blythewood, SC

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

1 Source Services of SC

3503 Palm Blvd
Isle Of Palms

3"D" Electric LLC

P.O. Box 342
Camden

77 PROs

7001 St. Andrews Rd. #430
Columbia

A & S Electical Heating and Air Inc.

122 Amaker Drive
West Columbia

A & S ELECTRIC & HEATING & A/C

122 AMAKER DR
West Columbia

AAA Accurate Backflow Testing & Repair

124 Woodcraft Dr
Lexington

AAA Tribble's Electric Service

1012 Haverford Cir
Columbia

abode remodeling

124 kinard kelly lane
Blythewood

ADAMS ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS, LLC

PO Box 290153
Columbia

Advanced Technology Electrical Services

526 Horse Creek Road
Leesville

Alexander Technical Resources

1263 Glenwood Ave SE

All Types Home Maintenance LLC

136 Quattlebaum Rd.
Leesville

Alr Contracting Inc

100 Blue Pine Ln
Lexington

American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd

Andy On Call

144 Holly Rd
Lexington

ANGEL ZONE RENOVATIONS

124 milway rd
Irmo

Anthony Asbill Electrical Services

1423 Old Charleston Rd
Pelion

Apex Electric, Inc.

3541 Dreher Shoals Rd
Irmo

B & L Electric Company LLC

114 Vermont Road
West Columbia

BASS CONTROLS

151 CEDAR KNOLL CT
Blythewood

Big or Little Home Improvements

239 Calcutta Drive
West Columbia

BOOK'S HOME SERVICES

7222 Highview Dr
Columbia

BR McGinty Mechanical Contractor

24320 Interstate 30
Lexington

Bradley Electric

19 Landmark Drive Apt. 10D
Columbia

Bravo Services LLC

PO Box 6322
Columbia

Brophy Electric LLC

204 Faskin Ln
Lexington

Brown Construction

1378 Estes ln.
Winnsboro

C & G Services

1005 Jackson Ave
Columbia

Carolina Service Pros

P.O. Box 440
Blythewood

Carolina Solutions

374 arnold rd

Cheryl Lynn Designs, LLC.

16 Mapleleaf Drive
Columbia

Chris Carawan Electrical Services

3235 Bagnal St.
Columbia

CLIATT ELECTRIC LLC

18 Long Rd
Prosperity

Columbia Electric Service Inc

701 Gervais St
Columbia

Complete Home Services

161 Lake Dr
Leesville

Construction Management Services

4689 Fish Hatchery Road
Gaston

Construction Specialties of Columbia Inc.

111 Executive Pointe Blvd. Ste. D
Columbia

CoolBack HVAC LLC

1174 coralbean way

Corbett Electric, LLC

1219 Water Tank RD
Pelion

Cottrell & Co., Inc.

151 Whiteford Way
Lexington

Craftsman On Call

709 Woodrow Street
Columbia

CRAWFORD ELECTRIC

PO BOX 12121
Columbia

CREATIONS ELECTRICAL INC

132 RICE CREEK LN
Blythewood

Creations Electrical Inc.

132 Rice Creek Ln
Blythewood

D & D CONSTRUCTION

500 HARBISON BLVD
Columbia

David A. Curtis Sr.

106 Aldbury Court
Columbia

David's Construction Services

9 Cardross Ln
Columbia

DELTA MECHANICAL INC

2486 Lawrenceville Hwy Ste 120

DESIGN & REMODELING SOLUTIONS LLC

100 Old Cherokee Rd
Lexington

DirectBuy of Indianapolis

8450 Westfield Blvd

DIXIE ELECTRIC

1648 BLUE JOHNSON RD
Hopkins

Donald Electric

300 London Pride Rd
Irmo

Dust to Dreams, LLC

118 Point Dr
Lexington

E F MARTIN MECHANICAL CONTRACTORS, INC.

4233 W BELTLINE BLVD
Columbia

Easy Electrical Solutions LLC

525 Graymont Ave
Columbia

Eclectic Electric Service LLC

7001 St Andrews Rd # 410
Columbia

Electric Supply Co

3225 Pacific St
North Charleston

Exclusive Homes

1095 Hilldale Dr.
Lancaster

Express Sunrooms

187 Farmington Road
Summerville

Exquisite Designs

47332 Sterdley Falls

FAIRFIELD ELECTRIC CO OP

701 BLYTHEWOOD RD
Blythewood

Fogle & Sons Electric

98 Oak Brook Dr.

Guardian Fence Suppliers

1103 Pasture Ln
Columbia

Guardian Protection Svcs

174 Thorn Hill Rd

Handyman Construction, LLC.

515 North Donar Dr.
Columbia

Handyman Services LLC

202 W Main St
Lexington

HANNA ELECTRIC CO

1449 FULMER RD
Blythewood

HD Services

261 Rushing Wind Dr
Irmo

HINSON ELECTRIC

632 STOKES RD
Camden

Honey Do Company, LLC

PO Box 2353
Irmo

Horizon Heating and Air

P.O Box 258
Irmo

JCP & Sons Handymen

613 Williams Cir
West Columbia

Jeffcoat Construction

PO Box 4871
Columbia

Jeffery, Archery

3129 Bluff Rd
Columbia

JOHN'S HANDYMAN & HOME IMPROVEMENTS

141 WHISPER WAY
West Columbia

Johnny's Electrical

179 Crystal Lake Dr
Chapin

Jonny's Home Services

640 Cedar Field Lane
West Columbia

K.G. Builder

6 high park ct.

Ken Swensen

104 Sunset Hills Ct

Knifefish Industrial Group, Inc

709 Woodrow St
Columbia

Knifefish Industrial Group, Inc

709 Woodrow St
Columbia

LABOR FINDERS

1225 ROSEWOOD DR
Columbia

Lee Electric

1344B Bluewood Ln
Lugoff

Leslie's Roofing LLC

6220 Falcon Ln

Lexington Custom Builders Inc.

703 N Lake Dr
Lexington

Lucas Construction

1330 D Ave
West Columbia

M & T Home Maintenance Service

1100 Langley Court
Columbia

M Dillon Construction, Inc.

PO Box 90472
Columbia

m.e.g. company

1919 boyer drive
Columbia

M/C Electric

1151 Boiling Springs Rd
Lexington

MartyWhite.net

7001 St. Andrews Road, #355
Columbia

Master's Men Remodeling & Construction

121 Alexander St.
West Columbia

Midstate Renovations & Repairs LLC

110 Timberland Dr
West Columbia

Mike Eyers Electric

212 Montgomery Rd
Columbia

MIKE FOREMAN HOME IMPROVEMENTS INC

14646 ST HWY 34 E
Ridgeway

Mills Electric Service

140 Boulware Rd
Lugoff

MITCHUM CONSTRUCTION SERVICES

9801 DUNBARTON DR
Columbia

Moore Electric

1831 Cupstid St
Cayce

Moore Quality Builders

132 Walter Rawl Rd
Lexington

OnSite Power Services, LLC

2105 Rockland Road
Columbia

Outdoor Lighting Perspectives

5125A Bush River Rd
Columbia

PALMETTO AIR CONDITIONING & ELECTRIC CO

1938 Augusta Highway
Lexington

Palmetto HomeStyle

203-C Dooley Rd
Lexington

Parker Construction

134 Rufus Rd
Swansea

PIERCE & CATOE MECHANICAL

151 Business Park Drive
Lexington

Plans Unlimited Construction, LLC

141 Pelham Drive
Columbia

Premium Repair Solutions

PO Box 918
Elgin

Professional Tire and Radiator Service

3525 North Main Street
Columbia

R & R Remodeling and Restoration

909 Trailmore Cir
Sumter

R&J Remodeling

109 Tavern Fare Rd.
Columbia

RANDY'S SERVICES

350 Caughman Rd
Prosperity

Rytec Electric LLC

131 Mews Court
Lexington

Salmon Electrical Service

709 Woodrow St #518
Columbia

Sandhills Electrical

12 Turtle Creek Way
Columbia

SEASTRUNK ELECTRIC CO

1731 HARDEN ST
Columbia

SED MECHANICAL

207 OAK DR
Lexington

SENOIA ELECTRIC

630 GRAY GIRLS RD

Service Rat

1 Allison Ct
Cayce

Shuler Electrical Services

405 Christian St
Columbia

Spring Valley Heating And Air

1229 Bookman Rd
Elgin

Standridge Masonry & Repair

157 Earline Dr
West Columbia

STARNES ELECTRICAL CO INC

5733 PLATT SPRINGS RD
Lexington

Starr Mechanical Services LLC

149 Frye Rd
Lexington

Straightline Remodeling

410 Broken Hill Rd
Columbia

Sysak Electric

1805 Platt Springs Rd
West Columbia

T-Way Electric

1629 Haviland Cir.
Columbia

Taylor Contracting Inc.

P.O.Box 767
Blythewood

Ted W Morton Builders

631 Ansel Ct
Leesville

The Kinsey Company

129 Wilmont Drive
Lexington

The Lite House

3521 Bush River Rd
Columbia

The Window Man

1902 Virginia Beach Blvd.

The Woodworkers Garage

123 Normandy Rd
Columbia

Thomas & Son'S

1830 South Lake Drive
Lexington

Three Rivers Electric

125 rembert martin park

Tru - Bilt Homes, Inc.

PO Box 1114
Chapin

Tucker Electric Services

17 Northlake Rd
Columbia

Upstate Commercial Svc

512 Old Piedmont Hwy.
Greenville

Viking Remodeling

262 Moonlight Drive
Columbia

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

WEAVER SYSTEMS INC

104 N SHORECREST RD
Columbia

WireMonkey

5435 Bush River
Columbia

Wise Guys Home Improvement

722 Heyward St.
Columbia

Shop Local Electrical Services in Blythewood, SC

Join Angie's List to get the best local reviews in Blythewood.

What Does My Membership Include?
  • Instant access to reviews for 700+ services
  • Exclusive service discounts - up to 70 percent off!
  • Top-notch support from our live call center
How does Angie's List work?
1. Say you need a Electrician
2. Angie's List has tons of detailed, local reviews.
3. Find a winner, and book them.
4. Angie's List is there to resolve any issues.
CBS
Good Morning America
Fox News
USA Today
The Wall Street Journal
MSN money