This roof cleaning review is one of those times when pictures really do say 1,000 words
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5 estimates? Why 5? Why would you do that to yourself? Normally if you are dealing with reputable companies you don't need more than 2 estimates. I advocate to people to always get at least two estimates and if the roofers are saying something very different or if the roofers are way way way off in price, get an equalizer, get a 3rd. Obviously if you don't trust a roofer disqualify that roofer immediately. I beliee you have now fallen into "Analysis Paralysis" which is what happens when you have too many opions.
But back to the topic, I said you are focusing on the wrong thing. Why did I say that? Because you can take the best shingle in the world and if installed wrong is compeltely garbage. i can take the worst shingle, known to fail, and if installed properly will last some ammount of time. So you should focus on the roofer, not the product. The roofer is more important and a good quality roofer will only want to install good quality product.
The roof is a system comprised of many components, not just the shingles. You have the water proofing underlayment such as ice shield, the water resistant underlayments such as felt. You have the shingles, the ventilation and the flashing details. All of these things add up to equal one roof. Neglect one and your roof is doomed to fail.
But the roof is more than just product it is detail, know how and heart. Heart? yes heart. It takes the utmost CARING the utmost DESIRE to want to install a good roof. It's hard work and easy to fall into the train of thought as to do what's easier, instead of what's faster. Faster and easier seldom ever equals better. At the end of the day you ened a roofer that cares about your roof.
So what product is best? That's hard to say. Each manufacturer has multiple plants and it seems each plant puts out varying levels of quality. I will tell you in my area Atlast is known as a cheap commodity shingle. I have Tamko Heritage on my house but I stopped using it because I was having seal failue issues and at the time they offered no contractor certification program, but I hear they started up one. Ownes corning is a decent product backed by a great company. I don't install very many OC's though. I primarily install CertainTeed Landmark shingles and my feeling is that they are the best on the market in my area. I'm sure others will disagree with me.
But don't miss the point, the roofer is more important than the shingle.
Any roofer worth using should be able to do the roof with NO MONEY DOWN.
The only scenario I would ask for a deposit is on a crazy odd ball shingle that had to be special ordered.
As a certified and licensed roofing contractor, my reputation is on the line. I debate this topic quite often with other roofing contractors who seem to care more about profit than a job well done. Well, I can tell you from past experience having been a professional roofer for 14 years as of the time of this posting, that the chance for failure increases exponentionally when installed below freezing. It's better just not to risk it.
Personally I will not, unless absolutely necessary and the customer signs a disclaimer of limited liability, install a roof below freezing and really really want to install the roof at 40 or above. The shingles need to seal, and will not seal unless they warm to about 70 degrees F ambient temprature. This does not mean it needs to be 70 outside, because the shingles will warm from the sun.
So what can be done to install the roof below freezing? Well first, the roof should not be gun nailed below freezing. This is because the shingles become brittle and it's easier to "blow through" with your nails. It's also harder to regulate air pressure when it is cold, I speculate because of barometric pressures, but I am just guessing. Therefore the roof should be hand nailed. This takes more time. Furthermore since the seal strips will not seal, they must be manually sealed with proper compatible adhesives. This will also take more time, and more material. I once spoke with a roofer in Alaska who builds tents around the houses he is working on and covers them with tarps and heats with propane heaters. Now that takes real time! The question is, are you prepared to pay for this extra time? Can you wait a few more weeks?
Attic ventilation is a science that is unique to the architecture of each building. There are no one size fits all solutions. There is no "better" as a blanket statement without knowing more about the structure.
Ridge vent works well, with proper initake. All ventilations work more effeciently with intake, but some like ridge vent won't work at all without equal or greater intake when measured in Net Free Area (NFA).
Commonly if you have a hip roof, you may not have adequate ridge length for a ridge vent. This is a a VERY common mistake I see from unskilled roofers. For example a house with a 1,000 sq ft attic space would need not less than 27 linear foot of a good quality ridge vent like Air Vent II. That is to say if your house is 1,000 sq ft at the foot print, and you don't have at least 27' of ridge, a ridge vent is not Better, but is Worse.
Typically my rule of thumb is to stay away from ridge vent on hip roofs. So what then? Well I will then normally install what are sometimes called canned/mushroom.turtle style breather vents. The same 1,000 sq ft home would need only 3 vent, assuming they have 144 NFA each. Without an intake you would need to double this number to make 6 roof vents.
I am not really a fan of turbines, aka whirrly birds. They do work, but they have been known to break down and are reliant on the wind. Without the wind they are nothing more than big ol' breather vents on the roof. If you chose to have turbines installed the "book" would say that you need 3 if they are 14" vents. However since they are not always whirling around, I'd say add another for safety sake. For this reason, as well as cosmetics, I would encourage you to consider the 144 NFA mushroom/turtle vents instead.
One thing most people agree upon is that you do NOT mix exhaust ventilations. Don't put turbines with ridge vent. Don't put mushrooms with ridge vents. Don't put mushrooms with fans near by. THis creates a short circuit meaning the two fight each other. Think if your turbine is spinning. It is pulling air. It is supposed to pull air from the soffit/intake vents. However it will choose the path of least resistance and pull air from the closest opening, ie: the ridge vent. This is why they call it a short circuit, it will interupt the path of air flow from the soffit and thus most of your attic will not be properly ventilated.
The wrinkles will lay down flat if allowed to dry before first installing the shingles. However this is a waste of time. This is why I live by two 1 rule, never tear off more than you can put back in the same day, and if by some chance you opened more than you can shingle, tarp it. Felt is not water tight.
I really am only speculating. Without seeing it I really can't give an accurate answer.
There are a few other possible reasons, and framing (actually sheathing) is another possible reason. If the plywood is fastened improperly or if the plywood was installed without a gap between the boards for expansion and contraction, ripples can also occur. The difference is you will see the ripples spaced very evenly 4' or 8' to match the spacing of the plywood. If it is the case of improper fastening of the plywood, meaning the fasteners missed the framing so nothing is holding the plywood and it warps, you could easily depress the warped plywood with your foot. If the plywood actually buckled due to lack of expansion gap, you would not easily be able to depress with your foot. If the roofer didn't install the plywood, it wouldn't really be his fault, though if he or his crew saw it when working and didn't fix it then they probably should have. But I am not going to play the blame game unless I know exactly what the cause is.
A storm ripped through the area two years ago. The storm chasers use the cheapest possible shingles, and I am seeing something I haven't seen before. I am only guessing but what it looks like to me is like the shingles are expanding too much and causing the ripple effect I mentioned above in regards to plywood and the lack of expansion gap. The difference is there is no expansion gap required with shingles. This affect is something I never saw before and is only related to one cheap commodity dog house shingle which alot of cheapo roofers like to use. I've been roofing 14 years and this year is the first time I have been seeing this particular problem. It seems to come and go, which also tells me expansion is some how involved. I don't think you'd be able to depress it with your foot, though I've never tried.
Can you post some pictures?
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