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Over 5,166 reviews for
Warren Insulation Contractors from people just like you.

"The salesperson came to my home in March of 2015, did the presentation and during the walk thru noted that I needed to remove the knob and tube wiring before the" insulation could be installed. The electrical work was going to cost a nice penny so I asked if they would honor the quoted discounted price and they said yes. It was actually that I spoke to and he was very down to earth and a true professional that cares about providing great customer service. It took me a while to get the electrical done and when I called he knew who I was and as promised honored the quote. The installers showed up on time, completed the entire job in 5 hours. Let me home (inside and out) clean. From the first day I could tell there was a noticeable difference in the climate and comfort in my home. They did a great job and I would recommend them to anyone needing this type of service.

-Timothy B.

"Copper radiant installed professionally in one day. Ridge venting installed in one day. No issues with either...except, " did not advise that I should have also had my two turbine vents plugged. Most reputable roofers and tons of literature on the internet will advise you to only have one type of attic exhaust system. don't mix them. More vents to not equal better ventilation. In fact, multi-systems will work against one another. Advise you to consult a ventilation expert before considering adding any type of radiant . Called about this and they don't agree with roofing companies or the information out on the internet. They know better. don't risk your home on their narrow thinking.

-Patrick E.

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Local Articles in Warren

Icicles hanging from roof

Avoid Ice Dams With Proper Attic Insulation

An ice dam can cause serious problems to your roof without proper insulation.

Kitchen exhaust fan

Home exhaust fans don't just remove stale odors. They also help improve indoor air quality.

Roof ventilator

Improper attic ventilation can cause your energy bills to rise and severely damage your roof.

insulation in attic

When cooler weather arrives, many homeowners hire an insulation contractor to perform an attic inspection.

husband and wife with two small children holding big check in front of home

Dream Kitchen Sweepstakes allows Maryland couple to rekindle their dream kitchen and bathroom remodel.

Angie's Answers


If you go the Better Business Bureau website you can see that the company has only had two complaints in the last 18 months and that they have both been resolved.  The company has an A+ rating.  This is not something you can buy.


There are genuine reviews on many 3rd party online review sites including AngiesList and the Better Business Bureau.  Simply do a Google search for "Smart Energy Today Reviews".


Sol Blanket Insulation acts as a radiant barrier, insulation and a vapor barrier.  It is not intended to replace traditional insulation but in fact compliments it and adds to it's ability to keep cool/hot air (depending on the season) in the home when the envelope of the home is properly sealed.  


Every attic is different and there are many other components that must be considered.  You mentioned an attic fan as well.  The heat that is radiated away from the ceiling by the Sol-Blanket Insulation is pushed out of the attic with an attic fan.  The US Department of Energy states that radiant barriers do work and suggest they be installed by professionals.


As with any product by any company if the product is not installed properly and other factors (attic fan, caulking and sealing, etc...) are not addressed then it will not be as effective.


A couple of comments about what Jim said:

1) Regarding type of insulation, in cold winter environments: Cellulose and fiberglass are actually about comparable in R value when installed - blown in cellulose runs from 3.2-3.8 R value, fiberglass batt 2.9-4.3 R value depending on manufacturer and whether hig-density or low density, high-efficiency or standard, according to official Department of Energy publications. Measured values in attic test cases, in areas with a true winter, after 10 years showed a decrease from 3.4 (in the test case) down to 2.1 for cellulose, and 3.5 to 3.3 for fiberglass batt, due to packing or matting. In an attic environment, there WILL be condensation or frost on the insulation at some point during the year (assuming an area with true winters) and in highly insulated houses commonly for a substantial time period each winter. Fiberglass packs down slightly from that weight but mostly rebounds, cellulose packs down and mats and does not substantially recover, so over the years cellulose loses 1/3 to close to 1/2 its insulation value, fiberglass about 10%.

2) a note on radiation barriers attached to the bottom of the rafters - there are a lot of installers and homeowners making two major mistakes with this product that can cause major trouble: First, be sure to terminate it short of the eave openings. I have seen cases where it was carried all the way out to the fascia board, thereby blocking all airflow on the underside of the roof. Even carrying it all the way to the eaves along the bottom of the rafters will block off ventilation to the main attic area. You have to leave the air space between the rafters open to full airflow from the soffit/eave area ot the ridge vent. Second, do NOT run it continuous from eave to eave across the full width of the attic - leave a gap about a foot wide under the ridge vents so warm and moist air in the attic can vent through the ridge vent. Closing the ridge vent area off with the radiant barrier effectively puts a vapor barrier around the main attic area, causing retention of the moisture which WILL accumulate there, promoting mold.


Obviously this is not a timely response to the initial question. However, for those who may be reading these answers at a later time, a couple of added thoughts:

1) the radiant barrier being discussed is basically heavy-duty metal foil or metallized surface on a plastic sheet, intended to reflect RADIATED heat (infrared radiation - think heat light, or heat you can feel at a distance radiated from a fireplace), the same way a mirror reflects light. Radiated heat is how a standard oven broils and how steam and hot water baseboard heat predominately work.

2) you generally should do NOT place a radiant barrier over the insulation that lies between and over the joists in a normal attic, especially in a region where the attic temperature can frequently reach condensation temperature (below about 45-50 degrees) - it may reflect back some of the house heat that is coming up from the house, but by destroying most of the temperature gradient from the house to the attic air destroys much of the driving force that moves moisture to the attic air and subsequent venting. Between that greater heat and the fact the barrier is also a moisture barrier, that makes a perfect condition for mold and rot in your insulation and attic wood, and has become quite an issue in energy upgraded homes because of retrofits that cut off airflow outside the insulation, but do not cut off the moisture source leaking thorough from the house. The proper and ONLY place for a vapor barrier in a normal attic insulation system is on the pressurized and normal warm, humid side of the insulation zone - directly above the ceiling drywall in the top floor, fastened to the UNDERSIDE of the ceiling joists or trusses, NOT anywhere above that. Perforated barriers are supposed to reduce this tendency, but the perforation area percentage is so small that typically they still act as a vapor varrier, just not a totally effective one.

3) radiant barriers reflect radiated heat ewith up to 99% efficiency but have basically zero resistance to CONDUCTION (body to body heat transfer at points of contact - think heat transfer from your warm hand to a frozen cold drink can, or hot pavement heat transfer to the bottom of your feet) - so there needs to be an air gap between the radiant barrier and the hot item passing the heat to it, otherwise the heat will just pass through it by conduction. Therefore, applying it directly to the sheathing (above or below) or manufacturing it directly on the surface of the sheathing defeats its purpose, even though this is commonly done.

4) there is a lot of discussion, particularly in the professional design community, about attic radiant heat barrier effectiveness and problems. Because they are being installed on the bottom of the sheathing or underside of roof joists, they act as a heat trap for the energy being conducted through the roof which would normally radiate into the attic air or be transferred by CONVECTION (fluid flow heat transfer) to the attic air, and be vented through roof vents, ridge vents, gable vents, etc. By trapping that heat, they are causing the underside of the shingles and particularly the felt and sheathing to get a lot hotter than they otherside would, essentially changing it from a system where the shingle top surface might reach 120-180 F and the inside surface of the sheathing about 80-140F in the summer, to making the entire roof system equal to the outside surface temperature. This causes more rapid shingle deterioration and cracking, and makes the felt or plastic moisture barrier under the shingles brittle and subject to failure.

Also, any moisture above the radiant barrier (from roof leaks or humid air coming into the area) is prevented from evaporating by the attic airflow which would normally remove it, so it starts acting like a steamer. I have seen both wood and metal lofts and attics become a major mold farm in months because of this effect, and a couple of roofs which started sagging due to rotted sheathing within 2 years of reroofing with tightly adhered radiant barrier. Some radiant barriers are vapor-permeable to reduce the moisture issue, many are not, but few actually are effective in letting moisture freely escape.

Having seen these products in use, and having analyzed and specified building products for use from the Middle East to the Arctic for decades, and having a Masters in Arctic Engineering (a degree predominately in energy conservation and heat flow), my personal opinion is that these radiant barriers will be banned by code within 10-15 years for unheated (so-called "cold" roofs) roofs, because they just do not use the principles of thermodynamics correctly. For more info on this issue Google the following search phrase  - moisture trapping by radiant attic barriers       and read the government (not the manufacturer) literature on the issue.

5) Unfortunately, the right way to handle this issue is to put the radiant surface on the OUTSIDE of the house - by using reflective materials on the roofing material. This is already done with flat roofs, house trailers, and industrial structures by spraying with alumiunum paint, and a few brands offer reflective aggregate shingles that are slightly more reflective and radiant than normal shingles. People obviously do not like this reflective surface from an aesthetic standpoint, though with solar cells coming into more general use this may soon be more widely adopted. The idea should be to keep the solar energy from penetrating into the building envelope at all, not try to re-reflect it away after it has penetrated throguh the roof system.

The sprayed-in foam has a couple of issues you need to be aware of:

6) it needs to be the low-pressure expanding type mixed for use around window frames, as fully expanding foam can bow joists or trusses and pop drywall ceilings free as it expands, and non-expanding foam actually shrinks as it cures, leaving gaps for air and heat flow alongside the ceiling joists.

7) being closed-cell it is essentially impervious to moisture, so the vapor barrier on the house side has to be EXCELLENT (incuding sealingof all penetrations), or it will trap household moisture escaping into the attic and promote mold and rot in the ceiling drywall and joists.

8) it tends to bleed chemical fumes into the house for a long period of time (can be noticeable for years), which may be objectionable to some people from an odor or environmental standpoint, and especially should be considered if any residents have severe allergy issues or respiratory problems.

9) I emphatically recommend AGAINST use of sprayed-in foam between ceiling joists or truss members in any area that can have cold attic air that could cause moisture condensation in the insulation, though this is probably not a significant problem where you live, assuming your Dallas is the city in Texas. For essentially year-around air-conditioned homes in hot climates, the problem can actually be condensation of attic air moisture on and in the colder ceiling surface insulation and on cold attic runs of air conditioned air, so attic ventilation becomes a critical issue to remove the moisture before it condenses.

In summary, having seen an awful lot of attic moisture and thermal problems, my personal recommendation would be to ensure excellent sealing of the house from the attic, use normal UNFACED fiberglass insulation, and instead of a radiant barrier ensure adequate full-attic ventilation. If you decide to got with a radiant barrier, then I would recommend a perforated one, sloping up towards the sides a foot or two and stopping a foot or so clear at the sides so moist air under it can escape to the roof joist spaces and be vented from the attic. I have seen this done several times with a fine nylon net strung above the insulation in the attic, supporting the barrier, resulting in something very similar to the double-roof system used in bedouin tents, where airflow between the two layers keep the hot air away from the living space.

Steve made a good point.  Also, while it isn't required to remove the old insulation you can check the ductwork, wiring, etc. with the old stuff removed,  You can also spray foam around all openings and holes in wall top plates to better seal your home as Steve was pointing out.  My concern is the potential for mold spores you mentioned in your question.  If you suspect there are any get a good company in to remove the old and clean the attic.  Another concern is asbestos.  Your home is old enough you could have it in there and that's worse than mold if released into the air.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services

A moisture barrier has to be on the warm side ie towards the heated side.  Most people would not install a moisture barrier in your situation.  (They also sell a paint that you can use on your interior ceiling? as a moisture barrier).  Rather most homeowners would hire an insulation contractor to blow a cap over the existing insulation bringing it up to your areas reccomended levels,,Your power company can tell you the level, I would guess R 40.  What you use is up to your wallet, the best is a spray foam that can be applied to the ceiling or over the whole shebang.  Being a bit of a miser I would trot on down to my local big box store and buy a truckload of cellulose and get a free blower for I and a friend to self insulte.  Big box= Menards, Lowes etc.  Cellulose= ground up paper treated with boron for insect control and fireproofing.  It has a high R value and will stop moving air loss from the home. Before you cap current mostly emply attic is ideal time to take sealant to any openings in the attic floor,  like pocket doors, canister lights electircal wires and close off the air leaks from inside.  If foaming skip this.  Hot air rises so you save yourself a ton air sealing the home.

An attic radiant barrier is also a possiblity see my blog for nifty results on it.

Jim Casper Old Energy Conservation Guru

ps moving existing insulation use a plastic rake


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Insulation reviews in Warren


We were extremely pleased. Our LG&E energy audit showed an improvement in the efficiency of our home by 58%, and we received LG&E's $1,000 credit. They were professional and very knowledgeable. However, they only do insulation, we had another company (ACN Home Services, LLC) come do our air sealing (caulking windows and weatherproofing doors).
- Carrie C.

They arrived early in the morning and greeted me he and was very professional. As they accessed the attic they were very careful with my belongings in the surrounding areas and took all precautionary measures, as they started right away. explain in detail how the radiant helped ...More and what it consisted of. Once that was sprayed they ran tubing thru to blow the insulation in the attic. Again being mindful of my belongings. Once finished he showed me the finished product of how it looked and swept and cleaned up after themselves(which wasn't much) and off they went. I was satisfied with the way things turned out and I would recommend them to anyone in need of attic insulation.

came out less than 24 hours after my initial call and quickly evaluated the situation, provided a plan of attack an explained my options and budget and my need to complete this quickly in order to meet a short deadline for a reinspection so the closing of our home with the buyer could remain on schedule. In fact the inspector ...More for the buyer of our home was so impressed with The work 's crew did he asked me for their contact information so he could provide information to other sellers where mold remediation is required.
- Robert S.

is great. Very easy to work with. Shows up when he says- workds hard. Does a nice job. Work was done properly and well.
Great guy and if you need attic insulation- I would recommend him.
- James T.

First off the job I was wanting done was a small job. I installed a window in the mud room and when I removed the paneling in the wall to cut the hole for the window, I found unexpected voids in the wall from the previous work. I also put up a stud wall in the west of the mud room. My original plan was to fully insulate with foam the mud room because ...More it was the only room in the house left exposed to outside temperature changes. I expected to pay fully for the work.
, owner and president of Air Tight, came over to give me a proper estimate for the work I wanted done. I showed all that I wanted done from the garage end first and then I showed him the wall with the newly installed window. He noticed the voids in the wall and was surprised because his company "does not do substandard work," as put it. I was prepared to pay for the new work I wanted done, but he told me Air Tight of would do it for free.
Air Tight of stands behind their work more than a 100%. I could not be happier with the insulation. The house stays warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer with the new heating and cooling system without sky high bills. There is no more creaking or popping with the change in temperature any longer. As an added bonus to the foam insulation, there is less movement do to strong winds, one can hardly hear the wind or rain for that matter.
The employees are excited about their product and that excitement I picked up on at the Home Show, where I was introduced to foam installation as a retrofit option. The cost was reasonable and I expect to pay less in gas and electricity for heating and cooling over the next few years.
I highly recommend Air Tight of for new construction and remodeling for your insulation needs.
- Harold A.

The father came out and was very professional.He also held the ladder and helped me get up and down off the roof and was right there on it the whole time.He even told me when to stop as i was getting to close to stepping off the roof.
He installed a few openings to the attic and foamed around the area by the ac work that would help stop ...More intrusion of unwanted pests/rodents. He was a very pleasant man and very prompt. The next step is to meet his son and hope it will be as pleasant as the meeting of the father. Thanks,
- Gilbert and Rotonya L.

came on time for an estimate. He looked into my attic from both the hallway access and garage access. He proposed adding 16" of blown-in fiberglass insulation to bring my attic to a R60 rating. There was already 4" of fiberglass insulation between the rafters. He also said he would reposition ...More the existing sheets of plywood at no charge. He prepared a quote which included a senior discount and Angie's list discount, and I signed the contract. The work was scheduled for the following week and his two workers arrived on schedule, were very pleasant and professional, and got the job done in about 3 hours. They cleaned up afterward and didn't leave any mess. I chose initially based on their excellent reviews (and offer of a senior discount). was honest and accommodating so I was very comfortable contracting him to insulate my attic. I knew he'd do a good job and he did.
- Gayle D.

's crew showed up at the agreed upon time, got to work quickly and finished in a couple of hours. They took care to protect the floors and put fans in the basement windows to vent the fumes from the foam they used to seal the crawl space. They were courteous, professional and efficient, and also explained ...More the rebates available for the work through the local power company.
- David K.

Insulation Contractors in Warren, RI

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A-Z Handyman

1896 West Shore Rd

A.J.H. Construction

186 vernon street

A.V. Drywall & Plastering, Inc.

345 South Main Street

A2Z Renovations LLC

116 Tupelo St

Above All Roofing

1303 Eddie Dowling Hwy
North Smithfield

AR Construction

94 ortoleva dr


11 123 fd

Brassard Construction, Inc.

70 Bucklin Street

Calyx Homes Ltd

21 Spring Green Rd

Cass Finish Carpentry

161 Doyle Ave

Clean Care of New England

850 Wellington Avenue

Clean Planet

1069 Main St. Suite 321

Collum and Son Remodeling

46 Cottage Ave.



Craig Paris Construction

45 Burnside Ave.



Cronin Construction

319 Longmeadow Ave


10 Appian Way

Donahue Chimney Service LLC

20 N Main St

Dry Zone Basement Systems

850 Bedford Street

Duct Genie Inc.

555 Metacom Ave.

East Side Construction

21 Dexter Road
East Providence

east side safety

Hope Artiste Village

Envirotek Restoration Inc

205 Hallene Rd


120 Wayland Avenue

Expert Landscaping

6 Franconia Dr
North Smithfield

Five Star Construction

521 Front Street

fp handyworks




Greenville Insulation

305 Putnam Pike

HCA Pre Cut Systems LLC

22 Wampanaug Trail
West Greenwich

HD Home Improvements

199 south bend st.



Hetzler Contracting

535 Hyacinth St

Imperial Restoration

22 Monterey Drive
West Warwick

Island Road Contracting

Butternut Drive
North Kingstown

J.D. Edwards

196B Chapel Street

jim's home improvement

3 lee Street

Jon's Carpentry Service

26 Waldo Road

Keith Allen Carpentry & Remodeling

9 Union Street



LAG Home Improvement

481 Joslin Road

LMN Home Improvement

8 Bicentennial Way
North Providence

Lopes General Contractor

203 Front Street #501

McGuire Construction

45 N Olney St

MGB Construction

14 Colonial Ave

Moonworks Home Improvement

1137 Park East Dr

National Building Products

3356 POST RD

National Lumber

120 Welby Rd


26 Cedar St

North Smithfield Roofing

210 Black Plain Rd
North Smithfield

O.B.S Construction L.L.C.

90 grove Ave

Padilla Construction

132 Hendricks St
Central Falls


141 high st.

Pro Insulators

71 Maple St

Quality Home Interiors

4 Doran Avenue

RB Construction



PO BOX 268

Rhode Island Home Improvement

1815 Post Rd

RI Properties, LLC

27 Greenwich St.

Richardsons Renovations

45 Buckeye Brook Rd

Riera's Construction

620 Broad Street Ste. A

Smart Energy Solutions

302 Court of Elm

Sonlight Home Repair Services

36 Canton St

Soundrite-Acoustics, Inc.

209 S. Stephanie Street

Stateside Vinyl Siding Company Inc.


Stellas Construction

Whipple St and Cash St

Stormtite Home Improvement

1065 Warwick Ave

Superior Insulation

14 enterprise ln

TJI Construction

40 Hillcrest Dr

universal insulation

28 desoto st

Victory Remodeling

780 reservoir ave. #279


12637 S 265 W Suite 100

White Contracting

366 Minerva Ave

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