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A
"They were very professional and installed the closed cell foam in one day. They managed to heat up the surface so it adhered, even though it was cold outside. " The room is now the best insulated and most comfortable home in the house.

-Karen B.

A
"Basically, I got three bids and
was the cheapest. On
20,
came out to look at the job to" provide an estimate. I received the estimate via email from
who works in the office. I selected
based on cost and scheduled the installation for August 14 but had to move it. They were flexible and moved it to the 19th. I was give a 4-hour start window from 10am to 2pm, and the two-man crew showed up around 1pm and worked all day installing the insulation and did a good job.
was pleasant and easy to work with.

-Jerry K.

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Local Articles in Warren

Avoid Ice Dams With Proper Attic Insulation

An ice dam can cause serious problems to your roof without proper insulation.

By properly insulating your attic you can keep warm air from escaping and save money on your energy bills. (Photo courtesy of Vinay S. of North Brunswick, New Jersey)
Insulation

Hot air rises … but good insulation can keep your energy costs from doing the same thing.

Better air quality, quieter living spaces, comfort and better health are all reasons to reconsider your insulation choices. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Roseanne J. of Seattle)
Insulation

Not just for new construction, learn how foam insulation can be placed inside existing walls to make your home more comfortable.

While traditional fiberglass insulation is affordable and efficient, injection foam insulation can offer even more benefits. (Photo by Summer Galyan)
Insulation

Insulation isn't sexy, but it can keep you cool at night.

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Contractors say homeowners with this trait are the most satisfied with home improvement projects.

Angie's Answers

?

If you go the Better Business Bureau website you can see that the company has only had two complaints in the last 18 months and that they have both been resolved.  The company has an A+ rating.  This is not something you can buy.

 

There are genuine reviews on many 3rd party online review sites including AngiesList and the Better Business Bureau.  Simply do a Google search for "Smart Energy Today Reviews".

 

Sol Blanket Insulation acts as a radiant barrier, insulation and a vapor barrier.  It is not intended to replace traditional insulation but in fact compliments it and adds to it's ability to keep cool/hot air (depending on the season) in the home when the envelope of the home is properly sealed.  

 

Every attic is different and there are many other components that must be considered.  You mentioned an attic fan as well.  The heat that is radiated away from the ceiling by the Sol-Blanket Insulation is pushed out of the attic with an attic fan.  The US Department of Energy states that radiant barriers do work and suggest they be installed by professionals.

 

As with any product by any company if the product is not installed properly and other factors (attic fan, caulking and sealing, etc...) are not addressed then it will not be as effective.

?

A couple of comments about what Jim said:

1) Regarding type of insulation, in cold winter environments: Cellulose and fiberglass are actually about comparable in R value when installed - blown in cellulose runs from 3.2-3.8 R value, fiberglass batt 2.9-4.3 R value depending on manufacturer and whether hig-density or low density, high-efficiency or standard, according to official Department of Energy publications. Measured values in attic test cases, in areas with a true winter, after 10 years showed a decrease from 3.4 (in the test case) down to 2.1 for cellulose, and 3.5 to 3.3 for fiberglass batt, due to packing or matting. In an attic environment, there WILL be condensation or frost on the insulation at some point during the year (assuming an area with true winters) and in highly insulated houses commonly for a substantial time period each winter. Fiberglass packs down slightly from that weight but mostly rebounds, cellulose packs down and mats and does not substantially recover, so over the years cellulose loses 1/3 to close to 1/2 its insulation value, fiberglass about 10%.

2) a note on radiation barriers attached to the bottom of the rafters - there are a lot of installers and homeowners making two major mistakes with this product that can cause major trouble: First, be sure to terminate it short of the eave openings. I have seen cases where it was carried all the way out to the fascia board, thereby blocking all airflow on the underside of the roof. Even carrying it all the way to the eaves along the bottom of the rafters will block off ventilation to the main attic area. You have to leave the air space between the rafters open to full airflow from the soffit/eave area ot the ridge vent. Second, do NOT run it continuous from eave to eave across the full width of the attic - leave a gap about a foot wide under the ridge vents so warm and moist air in the attic can vent through the ridge vent. Closing the ridge vent area off with the radiant barrier effectively puts a vapor barrier around the main attic area, causing retention of the moisture which WILL accumulate there, promoting mold.

?

Obviously this is not a timely response to the initial question. However, for those who may be reading these answers at a later time, a couple of added thoughts:

1) the radiant barrier being discussed is basically heavy-duty metal foil or metallized surface on a plastic sheet, intended to reflect RADIATED heat (infrared radiation - think heat light, or heat you can feel at a distance radiated from a fireplace), the same way a mirror reflects light. Radiated heat is how a standard oven broils and how steam and hot water baseboard heat predominately work.

2) you generally should do NOT place a radiant barrier over the insulation that lies between and over the joists in a normal attic, especially in a region where the attic temperature can frequently reach condensation temperature (below about 45-50 degrees) - it may reflect back some of the house heat that is coming up from the house, but by destroying most of the temperature gradient from the house to the attic air destroys much of the driving force that moves moisture to the attic air and subsequent venting. Between that greater heat and the fact the barrier is also a moisture barrier, that makes a perfect condition for mold and rot in your insulation and attic wood, and has become quite an issue in energy upgraded homes because of retrofits that cut off airflow outside the insulation, but do not cut off the moisture source leaking thorough from the house. The proper and ONLY place for a vapor barrier in a normal attic insulation system is on the pressurized and normal warm, humid side of the insulation zone - directly above the ceiling drywall in the top floor, fastened to the UNDERSIDE of the ceiling joists or trusses, NOT anywhere above that. Perforated barriers are supposed to reduce this tendency, but the perforation area percentage is so small that typically they still act as a vapor varrier, just not a totally effective one.

3) radiant barriers reflect radiated heat ewith up to 99% efficiency but have basically zero resistance to CONDUCTION (body to body heat transfer at points of contact - think heat transfer from your warm hand to a frozen cold drink can, or hot pavement heat transfer to the bottom of your feet) - so there needs to be an air gap between the radiant barrier and the hot item passing the heat to it, otherwise the heat will just pass through it by conduction. Therefore, applying it directly to the sheathing (above or below) or manufacturing it directly on the surface of the sheathing defeats its purpose, even though this is commonly done.

4) there is a lot of discussion, particularly in the professional design community, about attic radiant heat barrier effectiveness and problems. Because they are being installed on the bottom of the sheathing or underside of roof joists, they act as a heat trap for the energy being conducted through the roof which would normally radiate into the attic air or be transferred by CONVECTION (fluid flow heat transfer) to the attic air, and be vented through roof vents, ridge vents, gable vents, etc. By trapping that heat, they are causing the underside of the shingles and particularly the felt and sheathing to get a lot hotter than they otherside would, essentially changing it from a system where the shingle top surface might reach 120-180 F and the inside surface of the sheathing about 80-140F in the summer, to making the entire roof system equal to the outside surface temperature. This causes more rapid shingle deterioration and cracking, and makes the felt or plastic moisture barrier under the shingles brittle and subject to failure.

Also, any moisture above the radiant barrier (from roof leaks or humid air coming into the area) is prevented from evaporating by the attic airflow which would normally remove it, so it starts acting like a steamer. I have seen both wood and metal lofts and attics become a major mold farm in months because of this effect, and a couple of roofs which started sagging due to rotted sheathing within 2 years of reroofing with tightly adhered radiant barrier. Some radiant barriers are vapor-permeable to reduce the moisture issue, many are not, but few actually are effective in letting moisture freely escape.

Having seen these products in use, and having analyzed and specified building products for use from the Middle East to the Arctic for decades, and having a Masters in Arctic Engineering (a degree predominately in energy conservation and heat flow), my personal opinion is that these radiant barriers will be banned by code within 10-15 years for unheated (so-called "cold" roofs) roofs, because they just do not use the principles of thermodynamics correctly. For more info on this issue Google the following search phrase  - moisture trapping by radiant attic barriers       and read the government (not the manufacturer) literature on the issue.

5) Unfortunately, the right way to handle this issue is to put the radiant surface on the OUTSIDE of the house - by using reflective materials on the roofing material. This is already done with flat roofs, house trailers, and industrial structures by spraying with alumiunum paint, and a few brands offer reflective aggregate shingles that are slightly more reflective and radiant than normal shingles. People obviously do not like this reflective surface from an aesthetic standpoint, though with solar cells coming into more general use this may soon be more widely adopted. The idea should be to keep the solar energy from penetrating into the building envelope at all, not try to re-reflect it away after it has penetrated throguh the roof system.

The sprayed-in foam has a couple of issues you need to be aware of:

6) it needs to be the low-pressure expanding type mixed for use around window frames, as fully expanding foam can bow joists or trusses and pop drywall ceilings free as it expands, and non-expanding foam actually shrinks as it cures, leaving gaps for air and heat flow alongside the ceiling joists.

7) being closed-cell it is essentially impervious to moisture, so the vapor barrier on the house side has to be EXCELLENT (incuding sealingof all penetrations), or it will trap household moisture escaping into the attic and promote mold and rot in the ceiling drywall and joists.

8) it tends to bleed chemical fumes into the house for a long period of time (can be noticeable for years), which may be objectionable to some people from an odor or environmental standpoint, and especially should be considered if any residents have severe allergy issues or respiratory problems.

9) I emphatically recommend AGAINST use of sprayed-in foam between ceiling joists or truss members in any area that can have cold attic air that could cause moisture condensation in the insulation, though this is probably not a significant problem where you live, assuming your Dallas is the city in Texas. For essentially year-around air-conditioned homes in hot climates, the problem can actually be condensation of attic air moisture on and in the colder ceiling surface insulation and on cold attic runs of air conditioned air, so attic ventilation becomes a critical issue to remove the moisture before it condenses.

In summary, having seen an awful lot of attic moisture and thermal problems, my personal recommendation would be to ensure excellent sealing of the house from the attic, use normal UNFACED fiberglass insulation, and instead of a radiant barrier ensure adequate full-attic ventilation. If you decide to got with a radiant barrier, then I would recommend a perforated one, sloping up towards the sides a foot or two and stopping a foot or so clear at the sides so moist air under it can escape to the roof joist spaces and be vented from the attic. I have seen this done several times with a fine nylon net strung above the insulation in the attic, supporting the barrier, resulting in something very similar to the double-roof system used in bedouin tents, where airflow between the two layers keep the hot air away from the living space.

?
Steve made a good point.  Also, while it isn't required to remove the old insulation you can check the ductwork, wiring, etc. with the old stuff removed,  You can also spray foam around all openings and holes in wall top plates to better seal your home as Steve was pointing out.  My concern is the potential for mold spores you mentioned in your question.  If you suspect there are any get a good company in to remove the old and clean the attic.  Another concern is asbestos.  Your home is old enough you could have it in there and that's worse than mold if released into the air.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
?

A moisture barrier has to be on the warm side ie towards the heated side.  Most people would not install a moisture barrier in your situation.  (They also sell a paint that you can use on your interior ceiling? as a moisture barrier).  Rather most homeowners would hire an insulation contractor to blow a cap over the existing insulation bringing it up to your areas reccomended levels,,Your power company can tell you the level, I would guess R 40.  What you use is up to your wallet, the best is a spray foam that can be applied to the ceiling or over the whole shebang.  Being a bit of a miser I would trot on down to my local big box store and buy a truckload of cellulose and get a free blower for I and a friend to self insulte.  Big box= Menards, Lowes etc.  Cellulose= ground up paper treated with boron for insect control and fireproofing.  It has a high R value and will stop moving air loss from the home. Before you cap current mostly emply attic is ideal time to take sealant to any openings in the attic floor,  like pocket doors, canister lights electircal wires and close off the air leaks from inside.  If foaming skip this.  Hot air rises so you save yourself a ton air sealing the home.

An attic radiant barrier is also a possiblity see my blog for nifty results on it.

Jim Casper Old Energy Conservation Guru

ps moving existing insulation use a plastic rake

?

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Insulation reviews in Warren

F

Rating
We set up an appointment for 8:30 this morning, and my husband talked to them at 9 and they said the guy was about 20 minutes away. It has now been almost 4 hours since they were supposed to be here, no one has called or shown up, and they are not returning phone calls or messages. We have had our fascia boards off of the house the whole time and we now have to put them back on and not do the insulation. She has my cell phone number and I have been sitting here all morning waiting on her to call back because the roofers have been waiting on them to get here and do the work, and they now have to leave.
- Janet C.
A

Rating
Very professional in scheduling inspection, provided pics as proof of problem and took care of repair in a timely manner.
- Jill C.
A

Rating
Went wonderfully. They came earlier due to a cancellation whe I asked if they could. Showed up on time and did a great job. Cleaned up and raked the lawn afterwards. Very professional and courteous.
- Becky M.
A

Rating
We are in the process of building a 35 x 36 addition on a home that we renovated over the winter. We were at the point where we needed to have the insulation completed. We did the main house in spray foam insulation last fall and were now at the point that we needed to have this addition insulated. Due to the extremely harsh winter we had, all of the nsulation contractors I called were extremely booked out for weeks just to come out and give an estimate. I got 4 estimates. Price was not my only deciding factor, however March &
Warren Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
price was the most reasonable of all 4 and the gentleman they sent out to do the estimate was very professional and courteuos. After reviewing the estimates I decided to use March &
Warren Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
. I was told that they could not do the job until October 7th when I called to schedule. I explained my dilemna to
Warren Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
in their office and told her our entire project would be held up until this could be done. We were already months past our estimated date of completion on this project..
Warren Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
went out of her way and managed to get us scheduled for August 26th. They went the extra mile to help us out. the job was completed in three days and I could not be happier with the quality of the work, the professionalism of the crew and overall performance of the entire company. My husband is a buildign inspector and has been recommending them for years. Now I see why. We are very satisfied customers, and my husband the inspector is not an easy guy to please. He expects quality work from any contrsctors that we hire, and that is exactly what we got.
- Sandra C.
D

Rating
I have a very small 300sf attic - I purchased $500 worth of blown in insulation for my attic for $99. Provider called to make sure I knew it was towards the total cost of attic insulation. I told him I have a very small attic and thought that may be all I need. His reaction to the size of by attic was disbelief. Although a date was set for someone to assess the work needed at my home no one came. I called back and was told the problem was with the small print in the Angie's list description. With all the criteria he described I stated I met each requirement. He finally said my attic was so small he could not possible make any money and told me to get a refund from Angie's List or he would give me one. I suggested he send the refund to me.




- Susan H.
A

Rating
Very professional. I didn't find the sales part of the experience to be too pushy, which had been an issue with other providers in this
Warren Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
. They were educational and patient with questions. They were prompt and professional. The results so far have been exactly what we were hoping for given the fairly sizable scope of work.
- Jason K.
A

Rating
Their utility truck comes with a gas powered insulation vacuum with a large and very long hose. The hose is probably 6" in diameter. The brought the house in through the front and through the living space and finally up through the attic access. The vacuumed all of the loose insulation as well as some miscellaneous debris from a recent roof replacement. The result was a clear space that is allowing me to continue with further home renovations at my leisure. The removal took about 2 1/2 to 3 hours to complete.
- David S.
A

Rating
The contractor was prompt, knowledgeable and professional. I received another quote for the same work.
Warren Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
was much lower, plus they file the Xcel Energy rebate for the customer. Time will tell if this solves my ice dam problem, but both contractors I met with made the same recommendations. The quote from
Warren Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
was reasonable, so I felt it was worth the gamble.
- Melissa A.

Insulation Contractors in Warren, RI

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A-Z Handyman

1896 West Shore Rd
Warwick

A.J.H. Construction

186 vernon street
Warren

A2Z Renovations LLC

116 Tupelo St
Bristol

Above All Roofing

1303 Eddie Dowling Hwy
North Smithfield

Aire Serv of Central Rhode Island

115 India St
Pawtucket

AJ Drywall & Plastering

120 Westwood Ave
Providence

American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd

Anchor Insulation - Pawtucket, RI

435 Narragansett Park Dr
Providence

ARK HOME IMPROVEMENT

323 Sayles Ave
Pascoag

B&R Fournier Construction Inc

155 Trenton St
Pawtucket

Brassard Construction, Inc.

70 Bucklin Street
Pawtucket

Calyx Homes Ltd

21 Spring Green Rd
Lincoln

Classic Metal Roofs LLC

264 Gleasondale Rd

Clean Care of New England

850 Wellington Avenue
Cranston

Clean Planet

1069 Main St. Suite 321

Collum and Son Remodeling

46 Cottage Ave.
Portsmouth

COTE JB CONSTRUCTION INC

256 RAILROAD ST
Manville

Craig Paris Construction

45 Burnside Ave.
Newport

CRITTER CONTROL OF GRI

14 LORRAINE RD
Westerly

Cronin Construction

319 Longmeadow Ave
Warwick

CROSS INSULATION

10 Appian Way
Smithfield

Cyber Bridge Marine, Inc.

209 S. Stephanie St

Donahue Chimney Service LLC

20 N Main St
Wakefield

Dry Zone Basement Systems

850 Bedford Street

Duct Genie Inc.

555 Metacom Ave.
Bristol

East Side Construction

21 Dexter Road
East Providence

east side safety

Hope Artiste Village
Providence

Envirotek Restoration Inc

205 Hallene Rd
Warwick

EPCO ROOFING SIDING AND WINDOWS

120 Wayland Avenue
Providence

Expert Landscaping

6 Franconia Dr
North Smithfield

Exterior Touch Inc.

12610 Waverly RD.

Five Star Construction

521 Front Street
Woonsocket

G&C Construction

Whipple St and Cash St

GARCIA HOME IMPROVEMENT

18 BLACKSTONE AVE
Pawtucket

GreenSeal Inc

44 Fishing Cove Rd
North Kingstown

Greenville Insulation

305 Putnam Pike
Smithfield

Handy-Woman

146 Prospect St. #3
Providence

HCA Pre Cut Systems LLC

22 Wampanaug Trail
West Greenwich

HD Home Improvements

199 south bend st.
Pawtucket

HERITAGE RESTORATION INC

122 MANTON AVE
Providence

Hetzler Contracting

535 Hyacinth St

J.D. Edwards

196B Chapel Street
Lincoln

jim's home improvement

3 lee Street
Pawtucket

Jon's Carpentry Service

26 Waldo Road
Warwick

K Benoit Construction Company

27 Thompson Hill Dr
Cumberland

Keith Allen Carpentry & Remodeling

9 Union Street
Riverside

KIR CONSTRUCTION & REMODELING INC.

103 WEBSTER ST
Pawtucket

LAG Home Improvement

481 Joslin Road
Harrisville

MGB Construction

14 Colonial Ave
Tivderton

Moonworks Home Improvement

1137 Park East Dr
Woonsocket

National Building Products

3356 POST RD
Warwick

National Lumber

120 Welby Rd

O.B.S Construction L.L.C.

90 grove Ave
Cranston

OCEAN STATE AIR SOLUTIONS

1844 East Main Road
Portsmouth

OCEAN STATE PROPERTY SERVICES

542 RIVER AVE
Providence

Padilla Construction

132 Hendricks St
Central Falls

Paint&color

141 high st.

Paradise Cleaning and Restoration

170 Aquidneck Avenue
Middletown

PETER GREIFER ENTERPRISES INC

PO BOX 10417
Cranston

RETRO TEC INSULATION LLC

PO BOX 268
Slatersville

RHODE ISLAND HOME IMPROVEMENT

1815 POST RD
Warwick

Richardsons Renovations

45 Buckeye Brook Rd
Charlestown

RISE ENGINEERING

1341 ELMWOOD DR
Cranston

RJL Insulation

476 B Green End Ave
Middletown

SIMONSAYZFIXIT,INC

112 MOORE ST
Providence

Sonlight Home Repair Services

36 Canton St
Providence

Soundrite-Acoustics, Inc.

209 S. Stephanie Street

universal insulation

28 desoto st
Providence

Victory Remodeling

780 reservoir ave. #279
Cranston

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

White Contracting

366 Minerva Ave
Cumberland

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