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Over 4,519 reviews for
North Huntingdon Drain Pipe Contractors from people just like you.

" prepared the most comprehensive and understandable bid we have every seen. We knew exactly what was going to do." (we've done several remodeling jobs in this and earlier homes; so we have a fair idea of what constitutes a good bid specification.) The crew was great: prompt, hard working, and personable. (If you were in a crawl space working for many days, could you say the same.) The crew took great care to minimize any damage or dirt coming into the house. This was really important, since they had to access the crawl space through a fairly long run from the garage, thru the laundry room, a hallway, the master bedroom, the master bath, and finally to the crawl space entrance in the master closet. The only nit was the 7th day of work when the crew only had four hours of work left. management called the crew away to handle an "emergency", and they really mystified us -- still does. Aside from that and their employees provided excellent service at a very fair price, especially considering everything they had to do. I highly recommend this company to anyone who has a home with drainage issues.

-Janet B.

"Without him, we would have had no idea what was needed or how to do it, but it turned out the task was something we could easily do ourselves with his clear instructions." We will definitely contact him again when we have a larger job.


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Angie's Answers


First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.


Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.


From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!

Well , you've certainly started a debate that will endure forever , but personally , having worked with both products , PEX is a better product . Now granted , the 1st time i used it

I was not impressed , cause it leaked.......NOT because the product was at fault, it was because I did not understand how to use the product !

The trick to using Pex , is to make certain that the fittings seat, they MUST be pushed together with force, and if you do not push with force to get the seat to seal, it leaks .

Therefore , when using PEX , you have constantly to be aware of leaving room to make your connections -Properly !

The beauty of PEX is that it bends , it is flexible and decreases the labor factor ,although the connection costs are often 100-300 % higher than copper , but again , it can cut labor costs in half  and it is safer to work with,  NO FLAMEs!

FYI: CPVC and PEX are two different materials and installed differently.  PEX is not intended to be glued but instead has special crimp fittings.  PEX is a brand name of one product that is manufactured slightly differently by others as well so it is important that the same brand fittings are used to match the pipe material.

Mobile homes used CPVC for years and some still do.  It works fine but is not as strong as a properly soldered copper pipe system.  Is the contractor installing this new plumbing a licensed plumber?  I'd be surprised if he is since he's using CPVC and not PEX (or similar) or copper.  PEX pipe is even cheaper than CPVC when run by a knowledgable plumber.  It doesn't require nearly as many joints since it comes in rolls and can flex through spaces easily.

There are some groups raising a fuss about BPA and other chemicals found in plastics that don't like the use of CPVC, PVC, or PEX pipe.  I haven't seen the results of any lab tests to confirm or dispute their concerns.  As far as durability goes it's fairly safe as long as it's properly installed and secured.  It is not as susceptible to hard water damage as copper.  It absolutely must be insulated along it's entire length to protect it from contact to other materials as well as freezing.  Also, the fixtures in the house need to be grounded electrically since the pipe itself provides no electrical protection against accidental shock or electrocution.  In a copper plumbed house the system is grounded so static electricity, a short in a wire near a water line, or lightning strike will carry the current out through the pipe instead of through the water to you, ideally.

If it's installed correctly you should be fine but make sure the contractor knows what he is doing and follows the proper procedures to use CPVC pipe.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
It is usually cheaper to remove part of the ceiling below and patch it after the leak has been repaired.  Remember that water can travel before settling in one area, causing the spot you've seen.  Just because it is below the toilet does not mean that the toilet is the problem.  The cheapest option is to pull the toilet and check the floor around the wax ring to see if it has been leaking.  A new wax ring only costs a few dollars.  When was the last time you caulked the shower in that bathroom?  The water can leak around the corners or at the door (if you have one) and travel along the floor joists until it pools in a lower spot on the ceiling below, then seep through.  It could also be a seal at the drain of the tub or shower. 

I get a few calls a year for this sort of thing.  It's usually something simple but can be a nightmare to diagnose, especially if the problem is intermittent.  Start with the simple possibilities and use deductive reasoning to narrow the possibilities.  Before you do a lot of damage it may pay off to hire a reputable contractor to help you make sure you've exhausted all of the imple and more obvious possibilities.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services

Drain Pipe Installation reviews in North Huntingdon


scheduled an appointment for the estimate and was here promptly. The estimate was reasonable. He's a busy guy (a good sign), so there was some time before the work started. The crew completed the project within the time expected and according to plan. I have recommended his service to others.
- Charles S.

The job was more difficult for them than they anticipated it to be. The drain pipe was 4 inches away from our line.
So they couldn't use the machine that goes in through the drain pipe itself. Yet, they were prepaired, had to do more labor- but kept me in the know and was verry nice about it! I liked the fact they ...More were a family business.
- Mark F.

This is the third time we have used this company for basement leaks. Previously they had worked on the crack in the walls with resultant leaks with heavy rains. the owner inspected the job and submitted a fair offer. He was also willing to redue previous work they had done five years earlier. We were scheduled out about 2 ...More months and a check for 1/2 the job was written. At about the time of the proposed start of the job, I spoke with who was responsible for scheduling. He stated that he wanted to keep the guys working outside and that he would schedule us for a rainy day. A month passed and no rainy days at least when we were available. Meanwhile, everything had been moved around the basement making room for their work. Finally after speaking with and insisting on a definite date, he came through and the date was set 5 days later. To 's credit, he apologized for the delay and stated that he would not be scheduling again for any rainy days for inside jobs. Everyone would be given a specific start date. The job was completed in a little over a day. Excellent work, cleanup and punctuality.
- Larry M.

i needed advice for a few concerns around my house. called and spoke to scheduler who was very helpful and said they could fit me in that same day. technician arrived on time and we discussed my potential projects. he said although he could do what i was asking for, it wasn't really necessary and he didn't want me waste money. i really ...More appreciate that! he gave me several options for another project and wrote down the estimate and brand (which i knew to be the best brand available) he would provide. advised me about upgrading a problematic faucet. company has been around for a long time and i can see why :)
- sharon H.

was great about coming out (twice) to consult with me about the scope of the work. He kept me updated a few weeks out from the project, then called a few times before the work started to let me know that we were still on schedule. He would tell me when he was going to call me, then he would actually do it! Wow, how often does ...More that happen? We had a little communication gap the morning he came but in fairness he did try to call me that morning and my phone is programmed to not ring that early. It turned out to be fine and everyone was very polite (with the exception of some grumpiness on my part initially).
The two men that were working this job were very polite and conscientious and seemed very knowledgable. They cared about what they were doing and wanted to do it right. They added the new window well at my request once they got on the job and then decided that it needed to be a larger one than the one they brought out and came back the next day to put that in.
Having foundation work done is never fun and can be stressful when you have water coming in your basement. These guys made it about as good an experience as it could be. Not a fun way to spend money but at least I felt like I was in good hands.
I gave them a B on the price but I'm not sure if it is a good price or not. The reality is that no one wants to spend money on stuff like foundation work and maybe the price rating should have been an "A". I got one other bid and it was a tad lower but the other guy was so abrasive that I decided that I didn't want him in my home. Both companies had a good reputation but If I am going to give someone my hard-earned money, I want it to be to someone nice! I would highly recommend !

Owner is very knowledgeable.
Trenching and installation of French drains went well as did cutting through , replacing valves and installing additional heads.
A few issues were communication with owner following above listed work as he had a gutter company come and install downspout (they did a great job) but never ...More knew when (or if) they would come. Other issue was their placement of sod over the trenches. Yard is pretty bumpy, but next summer will tell if it smooths out after grass grows. Also not sure if basins are at the correct level. grandkids would probably have a problem running around yard due to high and low spots.
All in all I think they did what I wanted. Time will tell. Pretty sure draining issue is fixed.
- Alden H.

Excellent quality work - very pleased! The project manager was very good and the workers did a fine job! Price was at the top end, but the outcome of the job supported the cost for us.

Getting to contract was much more difficult than we've experienced with all other services. We had to speak directly with the owner about getting to ...More acceptable contract terms - a target start date, target completion date, agreement of completion criteria - as the initial contract was too open-ended and provider-favorable at the start. We did get to contract, but came close to walking away Recommend that the owner take a look at the contracts that other services provide and to not treat customers like they are going to cheat him from the start.

We would let them bid on more work for us, but would definitely look around for a provider that is easier to do business with.
- Gary S.

came out and assessed my situation. He took the time to listen to my needs and asked questions to help make a recommendation. He proposed an idea that I had not considered for my sewer tie in. Several years earlier I waterproofed the foundation and I really did not want to disturb that work. I also had landscaping around ...More the house that would be ruined. suggested that he could drill (horizontal bore) under the house. This would keep the about 10 feet away from the house. This method cost a little more, but was well worth it. After the drilling, he popped a hole in the basement floor and slid in the pipe. Very professional, prompt and courteous. They also cleaned up very well.
- Michael S.

Drain Pipe Contractors in North Huntingdon, PA

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

1HBG Contracting LLC

131 Lea Street

A Better Choice Inc

97 N Thompson Ln
North Huntingdon

A-1 SERVICES [Excavating/Demolition/Hauling]

1305 Latrobe Derry Road



AarMark Landmanagment

4701 roland road
Allison Park

Adjal Roofing LLC

308 Dunbar Dr

Advanced Basement Solutions

1200 Herminie W Newton Rd
West Newton

Allegheny Plumbing Inc

5th Street
West Mifflin


4098 GIBSONIA RD #543

AquaGuard Systems Inc

4240 Greensburg Pike


420 first street

ARC Contracting

218 Burdine Ave

Ark Basement Svc

532 Broadway Ave

Asturi Contracting

PO BOX 212

Atlantian Inc.

218 w smithfield st.
Mount Pleasant

Banko & Son Remodeling LLC

600 E Francis Ave

Binz Plumbing & Heating LLC

161 Washington St

Blackwood & Associates Inc

29 Virginia Ln

Bonura Construction LLC

206 Pine Dr

Carmello Construction LLC

1017 3rd St

Century Plumbing Heating & AC

120 Northridge Dr

Champion Waterproofing Inc

1216 Lowry Ave


Lower Burrell

Chris Jackson's Contracting

1575 Vermont Ave

Chuba Heating & Remodeling Inc

922 E 8th Ave



Costa Custom Builders LLC

7711 Kifer Ln

D-Bug Inc Waterproofing

109B Truxal Rd




East Butler





DP 7 Day Services Inc.

P.O Box 27042

Dun Rite Construction and Paving LLC

340 Prospect Cir
New Kensington

Dutchy's Quality Restoration

38 Loretta Street

E & E Concrete

3700 Meadow Lane
South Park

Easy Does It Remodeling And Handyman Service

107 Green Gabels Mnr.

First Call Plumbing

190 Seanor Rd

First Choice Plumbing Heating & Cooling Inc

826 Chartiers Ave
Mc Kees Rocks

Garner Construction Services LLC

1058 Dry Dam Rd

Gary Pozzuto Plumbing LLC

360 New World Drive

Gatto Design/Build, LLC

4810 Sandy Drive

Gillece Services

3000 Washington Pike



Green Mechanical Services

38 Buttermilk Hollow Rd S
N. Huntingdon

Hagerhaus Building Solutions

2443 Stroschein Road

Hassen Plumbing

349 S. Hamilton Ave.

HBR Services

50 Crescent Road

Home Repair Solutions LLC

229 Hickory St

Hronas Modern Renovations

436 Jacobson drive

Hughes Excavating

479 Patterson Rd

Iron City Mechanical LLC.

703 Monaca Rd

Isbir Construction & Landscape Corp

696 McKeesport Rd

J. McGrew Incorporated Contractors

70 Redds Mill Road

John Morgan Contracting

203 Comet Crt



Justin James Excavating

117 Grey Oak Ln

Keenan's Handyman Service

583 Steel Ave


Bethel Park

king henrys home remodeling

107 martin drive apt 107

KML Contracting, Inc.

611 Sandy Hill Road

LaBelle Homes Inc.

112 Sunrise Lane

Legerski Contracting

2909 Garbett Street

LJM Contracting

6394 Poketa Rd

Lloyd Anthony Construction Inc.

3125 Willett Rd

Lojak Landscaping

1420 Union Ave
Natrona Heights

M A Home Improvement

307 Altaview Dr



Mark Allen Plumbing & Heating

4905 Library Rd
Bethel Park

Mark Torgent Mechanical Inc

4300 Walnut St.

Matthews Wall Anchor & Waterproofing Services

7250 Big Beaver Blvd
Beaver Falls


617 17TH ST
Beaver Falls

MB Remodeling, LLC.

2704 Ventana Drive

Moran Plumbing LLC

278 Sutherland Dr

N&K Handy Help

78 Kiskiminetas Dr

Pampena Contracting, Inc.




PBR Hardscapes LLC.

144 Racquet Club Dr

Pittsburgh Excavation Contractors

1102 Artman Ln



R S Fountain Home Improvements

7402 Diamond Drive

R.D. EIKEY Plumbing

Mosgrove Street

Renners Plumbing


Restano Plumbing Heating & Cooling Inc

130 Anderson Ln

Rezzetano Plumbing

32 Elm Dr

RM Contracting

1582 Redbarn Ln

Robert Csaszar Plumbing Heating & AC

416 Goldsmith Road

Rodgers Scapes

1020 8th st

Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Drain Svcs

3731 William Penn Hwy

Ryan Shock Contracting

730 Chess St

Sal's Landscaping LLC

1385 Broad Ave Ext
Belle Vernon

Sewer & Drain Specialist (Plumbing)

208 Manor Harrison City Road
Harrison City

Shannon Staley and Sons

2400 Oxford Dr
Bethel Park

Shelton Plumbing Inc.

New Kensington



SL Contractors

1414 Fourth Ave
New Kensington

STELLAR HOMES & Remodeling

267 Sandworks Road

Sturm Plumbing

3354 Route 130
Harrison City

T.W. Services

1412 Brinton Rd.

The Roof & Driveway Medics,LLC

289 Palma St.
N Versailles

Three Rivers Landscaping

101 starling dr
Mckees Rocks

tom oconnor excavating

156 warren rd


PO Box 132
Scenery Hill

Tri State Development Inc

3706 5th Ave
North Versailles

Urban Corporation - UCI

PO Box 183

warhold mechanicals llc

North Huntingdon

West Penn Properties Group LLC

1213 Voskamp St

wilhelm and harvey construction

514 Griffin St

Woodside Plumbing

PO Box 787
Ford City

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