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A
"
and his crew did an amazing job cleaning, rodent proofing, sanitizing and insulating the attic. They arrived on time, got started immediately" and were very professional. I was shown pictures after the attic clean up and rodent proofing I also went up to the attic to see the results of the new insulation. They did an amazing job cleaning up after themselves. I would highly recommend their service to all my friends.

-Virginia R.

A
"Everything went very well. The crew was professional and they did a great job cleaning up afterwards. We had an issue with the de-humidifier not working properly" when it was first installed but they were very quick to address the issue and got it working. They did a follow up visit as promised 8 weeks after installation to ensure everything was continuing to function as expected. We would not hesitate to use
again for any future projects.
,
, and the entire crew were a definite pleasure to work with.

-Sametta G.

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Local Articles in New Brighton

snowy house

The Angie's List Guide to Winter Maintenance

It's the time of year when the winter weather can take a toll. Follow this winter maintenance checklist to protect your home, your car and your health.

Without proper insulation and venting in your attic, icicles can form on your eaves, leading to a damaging ice dam on your roof, says Neubecker. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Donna B. of Mendota Heights, Minn.)

Avoid ice dams with proper attic insulation

Do you have icicles forming on your eaves and gutters and ice collecting on your roof? An ice dam can cause serious problems without proper insulation.

Even in cold-weather climates, homes often lack insulation between the finished, occupied portion of the home and the ground. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Paul B. of Bluffton, South Carolina)
Insulation, Energy Efficiency Auditing

Exterior foundation insulation is an often overlooked home improvement. It can help stop drafts, lower energy bills and keep your house warmer during winter.

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Contractors say homeowners with this trait are the most satisfied with home improvement projects.

With insulation technology always advancing, you’ve got choices to make when it comes to the material you pick, says Lindus. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Lynn M. of Columbus, Georgia)
Insulation

Thinking of installing your own insulation? One highly rated provider shares six things that every homeowner should be aware of before attempting to DIY.

Before winter arrives, ensure your attic is sealed properly and has both adequate insulation and ventilation. (Photo courtesy of member Kitty Jones of Columbus, Ohio)
Insulation, Heating & A/C, Roofing

A comfortable, energy efficient home starts at the top. Those hot spots and cold rooms may relate to problems in your attic. Beyond adding insulation, what's a homeowner to do?

Angie's Answers

?

Google and read about it. Some people swear by it, though their comments sound suspiciously like they were all written by the same person. Some call it a rip off - expecially people paying $6000-8000 for what would normally be a $1,000 range job.

I would not call it an outright fraud as they are providing a product that has some potential merit in the right application, but from a technical standpoint it sounds suspicious. They claim a 1/4 mat with doiuble sided foil facing is R-16 insulation. This at least is deceptive - they appear to be saying its radiant heat reflective properties give the equivalent of R-16 insulation, because there is NO WAY 1/4" foam is going to yield R-16 in an ASTM test for insulation, which is a thermal conductivity test. Would be lucky to get R-2 or so as an insulator, so this is basically a radiant barrier. Competing products from national brandname manufacturers list R value of 3.8-4.2 for one inch mats, so the equivalent for this 1/4" mat would be expected to be in the R1 range.

Properly installed, with ventilation on BOTH sides, it can be slightly effective in reducing radiant heat loss from the house, and more effective in reflecting heat in the attic from coming down into the house. However, from a thermodynamic and vapor control standpoint, they are trouble unless their integration into the house envelope is designed VERY carefully. Short explanation:

1) for keeping heat in the house, if they are installed above the attic floor insulation they can slightly limit air loss through the ceiling, and reflect radiant heat back down, resulting in warmer insulation, hence a warmer ceiling - but not as marked an improvement as added insulation would give.

2) for keeping attic heat from getting into the ceiling, they do reflect back a good portion of the radiant heat coming from the roof sheathing. This reduces the attic floor insulation surface temperature, so can reduce air conditioning cost. it does increase teh temperature in the attic, which can be very bad for support timbers and the roof sheathing.

3) the worst thing about how this type of foil radiant barrier is used is that, unless it has free air space on both sides, it acts as a vapor barrier. In the typicall application as a blanket over attic floor insulation, it traps any moisture coming up from the house, and can cause mildew and rot, especially in climates where the outdoor temperature gets quite cold.

4) the attic fans are generally a last resort measure - the normal house does much better, at no energy cost, using ridge vents with adequate eave openings to provide ventilation and cooling in the attic.

5) their effectiveness in winter heat diminshes rapidly with time - tests of attic radiant barriers show they lose about half their effectvieness within 5 years, because even a light dust coating greatly reduces their ability to reflect radiant heat, and greatly increases the absorption of heat from the hot air above them.

6) pay attention to cost - from what I see, their installed cost is many times the cost of normal insualtion or radiant barrier placement.

I would say, in summary, buyer beware, and I would be inherently leery of a product being sold the same way timeshares and "secret" moneymaking schemes are.

?

Obviously this is not a timely response to the initial question. However, for those who may be reading these answers at a later time, a couple of added thoughts:

1) the radiant barrier being discussed is basically heavy-duty metal foil or metallized surface on a plastic sheet, intended to reflect RADIATED heat (infrared radiation - think heat light, or heat you can feel at a distance radiated from a fireplace), the same way a mirror reflects light. Radiated heat is how a standard oven broils and how steam and hot water baseboard heat predominately work.

2) you generally should do NOT place a radiant barrier over the insulation that lies between and over the joists in a normal attic, especially in a region where the attic temperature can frequently reach condensation temperature (below about 45-50 degrees) - it may reflect back some of the house heat that is coming up from the house, but by destroying most of the temperature gradient from the house to the attic air destroys much of the driving force that moves moisture to the attic air and subsequent venting. Between that greater heat and the fact the barrier is also a moisture barrier, that makes a perfect condition for mold and rot in your insulation and attic wood, and has become quite an issue in energy upgraded homes because of retrofits that cut off airflow outside the insulation, but do not cut off the moisture source leaking thorough from the house. The proper and ONLY place for a vapor barrier in a normal attic insulation system is on the pressurized and normal warm, humid side of the insulation zone - directly above the ceiling drywall in the top floor, fastened to the UNDERSIDE of the ceiling joists or trusses, NOT anywhere above that. Perforated barriers are supposed to reduce this tendency, but the perforation area percentage is so small that typically they still act as a vapor varrier, just not a totally effective one.

3) radiant barriers reflect radiated heat ewith up to 99% efficiency but have basically zero resistance to CONDUCTION (body to body heat transfer at points of contact - think heat transfer from your warm hand to a frozen cold drink can, or hot pavement heat transfer to the bottom of your feet) - so there needs to be an air gap between the radiant barrier and the hot item passing the heat to it, otherwise the heat will just pass through it by conduction. Therefore, applying it directly to the sheathing (above or below) or manufacturing it directly on the surface of the sheathing defeats its purpose, even though this is commonly done.

4) there is a lot of discussion, particularly in the professional design community, about attic radiant heat barrier effectiveness and problems. Because they are being installed on the bottom of the sheathing or underside of roof joists, they act as a heat trap for the energy being conducted through the roof which would normally radiate into the attic air or be transferred by CONVECTION (fluid flow heat transfer) to the attic air, and be vented through roof vents, ridge vents, gable vents, etc. By trapping that heat, they are causing the underside of the shingles and particularly the felt and sheathing to get a lot hotter than they otherside would, essentially changing it from a system where the shingle top surface might reach 120-180 F and the inside surface of the sheathing about 80-140F in the summer, to making the entire roof system equal to the outside surface temperature. This causes more rapid shingle deterioration and cracking, and makes the felt or plastic moisture barrier under the shingles brittle and subject to failure.

Also, any moisture above the radiant barrier (from roof leaks or humid air coming into the area) is prevented from evaporating by the attic airflow which would normally remove it, so it starts acting like a steamer. I have seen both wood and metal lofts and attics become a major mold farm in months because of this effect, and a couple of roofs which started sagging due to rotted sheathing within 2 years of reroofing with tightly adhered radiant barrier. Some radiant barriers are vapor-permeable to reduce the moisture issue, many are not, but few actually are effective in letting moisture freely escape.

Having seen these products in use, and having analyzed and specified building products for use from the Middle East to the Arctic for decades, and having a Masters in Arctic Engineering (a degree predominately in energy conservation and heat flow), my personal opinion is that these radiant barriers will be banned by code within 10-15 years for unheated (so-called "cold" roofs) roofs, because they just do not use the principles of thermodynamics correctly. For more info on this issue Google the following search phrase  - moisture trapping by radiant attic barriers       and read the government (not the manufacturer) literature on the issue.

5) Unfortunately, the right way to handle this issue is to put the radiant surface on the OUTSIDE of the house - by using reflective materials on the roofing material. This is already done with flat roofs, house trailers, and industrial structures by spraying with alumiunum paint, and a few brands offer reflective aggregate shingles that are slightly more reflective and radiant than normal shingles. People obviously do not like this reflective surface from an aesthetic standpoint, though with solar cells coming into more general use this may soon be more widely adopted. The idea should be to keep the solar energy from penetrating into the building envelope at all, not try to re-reflect it away after it has penetrated throguh the roof system.

The sprayed-in foam has a couple of issues you need to be aware of:

6) it needs to be the low-pressure expanding type mixed for use around window frames, as fully expanding foam can bow joists or trusses and pop drywall ceilings free as it expands, and non-expanding foam actually shrinks as it cures, leaving gaps for air and heat flow alongside the ceiling joists.

7) being closed-cell it is essentially impervious to moisture, so the vapor barrier on the house side has to be EXCELLENT (incuding sealingof all penetrations), or it will trap household moisture escaping into the attic and promote mold and rot in the ceiling drywall and joists.

8) it tends to bleed chemical fumes into the house for a long period of time (can be noticeable for years), which may be objectionable to some people from an odor or environmental standpoint, and especially should be considered if any residents have severe allergy issues or respiratory problems.

9) I emphatically recommend AGAINST use of sprayed-in foam between ceiling joists or truss members in any area that can have cold attic air that could cause moisture condensation in the insulation, though this is probably not a significant problem where you live, assuming your Dallas is the city in Texas. For essentially year-around air-conditioned homes in hot climates, the problem can actually be condensation of attic air moisture on and in the colder ceiling surface insulation and on cold attic runs of air conditioned air, so attic ventilation becomes a critical issue to remove the moisture before it condenses.

In summary, having seen an awful lot of attic moisture and thermal problems, my personal recommendation would be to ensure excellent sealing of the house from the attic, use normal UNFACED fiberglass insulation, and instead of a radiant barrier ensure adequate full-attic ventilation. If you decide to got with a radiant barrier, then I would recommend a perforated one, sloping up towards the sides a foot or two and stopping a foot or so clear at the sides so moist air under it can escape to the roof joist spaces and be vented from the attic. I have seen this done several times with a fine nylon net strung above the insulation in the attic, supporting the barrier, resulting in something very similar to the double-roof system used in bedouin tents, where airflow between the two layers keep the hot air away from the living space.

?

A couple of comments about what Jim said:

1) Regarding type of insulation, in cold winter environments: Cellulose and fiberglass are actually about comparable in R value when installed - blown in cellulose runs from 3.2-3.8 R value, fiberglass batt 2.9-4.3 R value depending on manufacturer and whether hig-density or low density, high-efficiency or standard, according to official Department of Energy publications. Measured values in attic test cases, in areas with a true winter, after 10 years showed a decrease from 3.4 (in the test case) down to 2.1 for cellulose, and 3.5 to 3.3 for fiberglass batt, due to packing or matting. In an attic environment, there WILL be condensation or frost on the insulation at some point during the year (assuming an area with true winters) and in highly insulated houses commonly for a substantial time period each winter. Fiberglass packs down slightly from that weight but mostly rebounds, cellulose packs down and mats and does not substantially recover, so over the years cellulose loses 1/3 to close to 1/2 its insulation value, fiberglass about 10%.

2) a note on radiation barriers attached to the bottom of the rafters - there are a lot of installers and homeowners making two major mistakes with this product that can cause major trouble: First, be sure to terminate it short of the eave openings. I have seen cases where it was carried all the way out to the fascia board, thereby blocking all airflow on the underside of the roof. Even carrying it all the way to the eaves along the bottom of the rafters will block off ventilation to the main attic area. You have to leave the air space between the rafters open to full airflow from the soffit/eave area ot the ridge vent. Second, do NOT run it continuous from eave to eave across the full width of the attic - leave a gap about a foot wide under the ridge vents so warm and moist air in the attic can vent through the ridge vent. Closing the ridge vent area off with the radiant barrier effectively puts a vapor barrier around the main attic area, causing retention of the moisture which WILL accumulate there, promoting mold.

?
Steve made a good point.  Also, while it isn't required to remove the old insulation you can check the ductwork, wiring, etc. with the old stuff removed,  You can also spray foam around all openings and holes in wall top plates to better seal your home as Steve was pointing out.  My concern is the potential for mold spores you mentioned in your question.  If you suspect there are any get a good company in to remove the old and clean the attic.  Another concern is asbestos.  Your home is old enough you could have it in there and that's worse than mold if released into the air.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
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Insulation reviews in New Brighton

A

Rating
The salesperson came in and spent over three hours analyzing the entire house for problem areas involving the original insulation. It was a very technicial evaluation and professionally done. Each of the findings was demonstrated and explained in detail. He also pointed out where the existing home insulation was currently doing its job.
The main deficient areas included the family room (lower crawlspace and cathedral ceiling areas), garage area, basement perimeter area, and the attic area above the main part of the house. I got two other estimates and neither one was as comprehensive as
New Brighton Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
's approach, nor as technically evaluated.
The work crew was very professional and obviously well trained. They explained each activity before they started it and, after they finished each piece of the project, asked if I would like to inspect the crew's work. Both the production supervisor and assistant production supervisor should get a pay raise--they were that good and very customer oriented. The entire crew was well oriented to their task and well supervised.
I am very pleased with my entire experience with
New Brighton Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
.


- Tomme C.
A

Rating
.They were on time clean & very professional & fast. Was done on a cold day & the front door had to be open, so they got it done quickly, with no mess.
- Ray J.
A

Rating
They showed up on time, worked hard, and completed the job ahead of schedule. They did a great job cleaning up every day and were very pleasant.
- Rosemary D.
D

Rating
The job was scheduled for October 1st, 2014 however when
New Brighton Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
and
New Brighton Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
arrived to begin the job, they found the man (
New Brighton Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
) had not measured the door properly and had not taken into account that there were electrical sockets on both sides of the window wall that needed to be cut in order for the new door to fit..
New Brighton Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
contacted the office and told them of the problem. He was told they would have to send an electrician out to move the wires. Electrician came out that day and cut the wall and relocated the wires. He nailed a piece of green dry wall on both sides of the windows and stated he would be back to finish the wall. The door was installed on Oct. 7th, 2014 but the electrician did not return to finish the wall. I contacted my sales man
New Brighton Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
Wratton on Oct 22nd and told him that the kitchen dry wall was not finished and that the bottom sill of the frame of the door was too high and not flat to the floor. This high
New Brighton Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
, bottom frame, bottom sill whatever you want to call it would cause a person to trip over the bottom of the frame and hurt themselves. He stated that he would check with his manager. Then Oct, 27
New Brighton Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
was sent out to take a picture of the dry wall kitchen wall. I told him my concern and his reply was that
New Brighton Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
windows is having the same problem. I wondered why he was sent to take a picture of the wall. Didn't they know the wall was cut to relocate the wires?? On November 10th, the electrician came back to finish the wall. I told him about my concern and he said he understood and he too said he would take my concern to his manager.
I sent an e-mail to my salesman,
New Brighton Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
Wratton going over the whole story again and I stated since no one seems to have an answer about the door, here is my request: I wanted them to give me credit for this door( $ 5,613.00) and replace it with a French door which would give us more opening room to get out and the base of the door would not cause a person to trip. This e-mail was dated Nov. 17TH, 2014. He replied, he would talk to his manager.
On December 16, 2014 I sent
New Brighton Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
De
New Brighton Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
(you) a certified letter with return receipt. I included in this mailing, the e-mail and the very positive review I wrote in 2012 about the excellent customer service I received from salesman
New Brighton Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
and the excellent service from
New Brighton Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
and his crew. You called me when you received the letter and left a message on my phone that I would be hearing from the company within 48 hours.
I did hear from a salesman December 29th soliciting additional business from me and as before, I told him my story and he asked me to wait until after the holiday before I wrote the complaint on Angie's List and he too said he would check on this and told me I could receive $250.00 for a referral. What a terrible difference two years has made in customer service and how despicable you treat your repeat clients.. No more!!!
- Phyllis H.
D

Rating
In my opinion, they just try to sell the deal to upsell you on other stuff when they come to your house. They sent a sales person out for the appointment. I felt pressured by them to sign a contract for extra services, and I
New Brighton Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
’t want to work with that type of company. What they tried to sell me was very non-transparent; it was a bundled deal of a lot of extra stuff that I didn’t want necessarily. They didn’t give a line item pricing of what they were trying to sell me.
- Douglas L.
A

Rating
It went extremely well. They were very polite, kept thing clean so our dog wouldn't get any of the insulation.
They answered all my questions in a very easy way to understand. At the end of the day we did a walk through to make sure everything was put back the way it was and that everything was cleaned up inside and outside.
I would defiantly hire them again and refer them to anyone!
- Karen S.
F

Rating
We decided to cancel, and they told us we couldn't cancel. They are getting license from the states and we did not approve that. The salesman said there is no problem that we can cancel anytime. When we called they said we have to pay for the preliminary for permits because they
New Brighton Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
a picture of the house. The price is up to $9000.
- CHARLENE B.
A

Rating
New Brighton Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
was very prompt, with both our estimate and job appointments. He explained the prep work needed and even followed through with a call to see if we were ready. I appreciated the effort they went through to make sure the foam stays contained and not all over our stuff. They cleaned up more than the mess they made and took all trash with them, which pleased me not to deal with it. I will update on the next arctic blast day we have to see difference it makes!
- Jennifer S.

All Insulation Contractors in New Brighton, PA

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

Absolute Win

2008 Lowrie St.
Pittsburgh

AFFORDABLE HOME IMPROVEMENTS

425 Jefferson Ave
Beaver

Air Duct Maintenance Inc

5892 Heckert Rd
Bakerstown

American Building Products

17 Frontier Dr.
Gibsonia

AMERICAN CONTRACTING COMPANY INC

900 FREDERICKA DR
Pittsburgh

American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd

American Precision Contracting LLC

20 Transit Dr
Mckeesport

American Window Industries Inc

106 Rockwood Ave
Pittsburgh

ARS Pittsburgh - 9001

1632 Rte 8
Glenshaw

B&M Home Improvements

8708 casa grande dr
Pittsburgh

Benderbuilt Construction

540 Highview Rd
Pittsburgh

Betterliving Patio Rooms

5499 Rte 8
Gibsonia

Beverly Services

3044 Industrial Blvd
Bethel Park

Boehmer Heating & Cooling Inc

300 Hargrove St
Pittsburgh

Bradley's Roofing

1315 4th Ave
New Brighton

BROOKSIDE LUMBER COMPANY

500 LOGAN RD
Bethel Park

Built Right By Rahner

5927 maple grove road
Bulger

BUTLER REMODELING & ROOFING, INC.

124 TIMBER LANE
Zelienople

C & C Home Remodeling

2917 Bethel Church Rd
Bethel Park

CanDoKen&Son

Pittsburgh

CARDILLO PLASTERING COMPANY

159 MC VEY STREET
Sturgeon

Carmello Construction LLC

1017 3rd St
Monessen

Casey Insulation Inc

2032 Karen Dr
Pittsburgh

COLAIZZI CONSTRUCTION

4894 Young Dr
Pittsburgh

COMMONWEALTH HEATING & REMODELING

2526 MONROEVILLE BLVD
Monroeville

CONSTRUCTION JUNCTION

214 N LEXINGTON ST
Pittsburgh

DAN THE HANDYMAN

919 RANDOLPH AVE.
East Butler

DENNIS REMODELING

307 Joseph St
Pittsburgh

Dinello Rental Accomodations

2033 Ridge Rd
Monaca

Efficient Insulation Inc.

239 Country Club Dr
Ellwood City

Energy Eagles

103 Pheasant Rise Court
Bridgeville

Exceptional Exteriors and Renovations Inc

2319 1/2 Patterson Ave
Pittsburgh

Exterior Touch Inc.

12610 Waverly RD.

Ferri General Contractors

3932 liberty ave
Pittsburgh

G & S Insulation Inc

2617 State Route 119 PO Box 95
Crabtree

Garner Construction Services LLC

1058 Dry Dam Rd
Jeannette

General Insulation Company

4801 Grand Ave
Pittsburgh

Geyer Construction & Contracting

121 clinton ave
Butler

Glasgow Construction

114 Milheim Dr
Butler

GM CONTRACTING

440 Pine Creek Rd
Wexford

HAMLERS MODERN MAINTENANCE

862 Monteiro Street

HOME IMPROVEMENT CENTER

505 NEGLEY AVE.
Butler

Home Pro Automation

126 E First Ave
Latrobe

HomeTown Construction

2000 Noble St
Pittsburgh

Infinity Home Renovations Inc.

965 warrendale bayne rd
Wexford

Insulwise Energy & Comfort Solutions

244 Jamaica Ave.
Pittsburgh

J.C. Allen Contracting

180 Harbor Village Drive
Edinburg

JD Gales Insulation & Contracting

1815 Pine Hollow Rd
Mc Kees Rocks

JG Drywall & Insulation Co Inc.

500 Logan Street
Carnegie

Kaiser Construction

1133 Lantz Rd
Avonmore

Karl Poruben Jr. Handyman Service

P.O.Box 2124
Cranberry Twp.

Kirkham Bros LLC

1478 Grandview Way
Sewickley

LEGACY REMODELING INC

3090 W LIBERTY AVE
Pittsburgh

Legerski Contracting

2909 Garbett Street
Mckeesport

Lloyd Anthony Construction Inc.

3125 Willett Rd
Pittsburgh

Locy Construction Services

668 Ten Mile Rd
Amity

MABRO COMPANY

1039 S BRADDOCK AVE
Pittsburgh

Masterful Surroundings LLC

15 McMichael Rd
Carnegie

MCLANE CONTRACTING INC

5644 BROWNSVILLE RD
Pittsburgh

McNemar Handyman Services

70 Forest Grove rd

MDA Contracting Inc

109 Crest Dr
Monaca

Meredith Home Improvement

2025 Borland Rd
Pittsburgh

Merola Co

1927 Universal Rd
Pittsburgh

Merola Plastering

6530 Ten Point Circle
Trafford

MILO SERVICES MS

3799 LEGION DRIVE
Gibsonia

MINCIN INSULATION SERVICE INC

289 BALDWIN RD
Pittsburgh

On the Level Construction

1623 4th St
New Brighton

Option Insulating Co Inc

4850 Streets Run Rd
Pittsburgh

PEARCE REMODELING

3227 BROADHEAD RD
Aliquippa

Pittsburgh Foam Insulation

1396 Frey Rd
Pittsburgh

Pogo Construction

104 Pinoak Lane
Imperial

Premiere Kitchen & Bath

106 Rockwood Ave
Pittsburgh

QUALITY WINDOWS

3802 Logan Way

Romea Roofing

825 Sharps Hill Rd
Pittsburgh

RonnieJohnston Contracting

264 Main st PO box 15
Hookstown

S.C. Hilpert General Contractor

5706 halchess st
Pittsburgh

Scalercio Contracting

361 Moon Clinton Rd.
Moon Twp.

Shore Insulation

524 Brighton Ave

skolnekovich remodeling

385 jefferson ave
Washington

Spraguerelli Construction

10 Union Avenue
Pittsburgh

Suburban Insulation

193 Crowe Ave
Mars

Superior Air Duct Cleaning

1029 4th Ave
New Brighton

T.W. Services

1412 Brinton Rd.
Pittsburgh

Terminix

201 Bursca Dr
Bridgeville

The GutterShutter Co

11820 Kemper Springs Dr Ste A

The Healey Company Inc

1234 Sarah St
Pittsburgh

Thermo Twin Windows

1155 Allegheny Ave
Oakmont

Three Rivers Urethane

536 Camp Horne Road
Pittsburgh

Tri-State Development inc.

3706 5th Ave
North Versailles

Trim Tech construction

1557 Edgebrook Avenue
Brookline

USA Insulation of Pittsburgh

3445 Harts Run Rd
Glenshaw

Varment Guard Environmental

5220 Westerville Rd

VERIZON

416 SEVENTH AVE
Pittsburgh

W M Prescott Roofing & Remodeling

20 W Noblestown Rd
Carnegie

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

WEST PENN ENERGY SOLUTIONS LLC

1121 SAVANNAH AVE
Pittsburgh

WESTERN PENNSYLVANIA GEOTHERMAL HEATING & COOLING

725 SAXONBURG BLVD STE 4
Saxonburg

Woleslagle Custom Contracting

205 4th Street
Irwin

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