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Over 5,544 reviews for
Export Insulation Contractors from people just like you.

A
"They were about 2 hours late, but other than that the service was great. The two installers were awesome and worked like madmen to finish the job right. When I do" more services with this company, I hope they send the same installers - very professional. The heat
really works, I would recommend to all.

-John G.

A
"Mr.
his son arrived promptly at the appointed time. His son cleaned the gutters on this 2 story house I purchased in May. The gutters hadn't" been cleaned in years. His son removed about 50 pounds of decayed leaf and twig debris. He also discovered the downspouts were split from years of being clogged and multiple winters of freeze/thaw. He performed this work with excellence and diligence. Mr.
removed a badly deteriorated slate roof on the dining room gable and replaced it with shingles. He did this work for a reasonable price. The work was well done and matches the main roof. The holes in the roof were left by a contractor that removed some abandoned plumbing stacks and yanked them through the roof leaving gaping holes behind. Mr.
used devices that connected to the boot of the old vent pipe which provided a water proof seal over the holes. This completely solved the water leaking issues from the old open holes.

-Mary S.

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Local Articles in Export

Avoid Ice Dams With Proper Attic Insulation

An ice dam can cause serious problems to your roof without proper insulation.

By properly insulating your attic you can keep warm air from escaping and save money on your energy bills. (Photo courtesy of Vinay S. of North Brunswick, New Jersey)
Insulation

Hot air rises … but good insulation can keep your energy costs from doing the same thing.

Better air quality, quieter living spaces, comfort and better health are all reasons to reconsider your insulation choices. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Roseanne J. of Seattle)
Insulation

Not just for new construction, learn how foam insulation can be placed inside existing walls to make your home more comfortable.

While traditional fiberglass insulation is affordable and efficient, injection foam insulation can offer even more benefits. (Photo by Summer Galyan)
Insulation

Insulation isn't sexy, but it can keep you cool at night.

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Contractors say homeowners with this trait are the most satisfied with home improvement projects.

Angie's Answers

?

If you go the Better Business Bureau website you can see that the company has only had two complaints in the last 18 months and that they have both been resolved.  The company has an A+ rating.  This is not something you can buy.

 

There are genuine reviews on many 3rd party online review sites including AngiesList and the Better Business Bureau.  Simply do a Google search for "Smart Energy Today Reviews".

 

Sol Blanket Insulation acts as a radiant barrier, insulation and a vapor barrier.  It is not intended to replace traditional insulation but in fact compliments it and adds to it's ability to keep cool/hot air (depending on the season) in the home when the envelope of the home is properly sealed.  

 

Every attic is different and there are many other components that must be considered.  You mentioned an attic fan as well.  The heat that is radiated away from the ceiling by the Sol-Blanket Insulation is pushed out of the attic with an attic fan.  The US Department of Energy states that radiant barriers do work and suggest they be installed by professionals.

 

As with any product by any company if the product is not installed properly and other factors (attic fan, caulking and sealing, etc...) are not addressed then it will not be as effective.

?

A couple of comments about what Jim said:

1) Regarding type of insulation, in cold winter environments: Cellulose and fiberglass are actually about comparable in R value when installed - blown in cellulose runs from 3.2-3.8 R value, fiberglass batt 2.9-4.3 R value depending on manufacturer and whether hig-density or low density, high-efficiency or standard, according to official Department of Energy publications. Measured values in attic test cases, in areas with a true winter, after 10 years showed a decrease from 3.4 (in the test case) down to 2.1 for cellulose, and 3.5 to 3.3 for fiberglass batt, due to packing or matting. In an attic environment, there WILL be condensation or frost on the insulation at some point during the year (assuming an area with true winters) and in highly insulated houses commonly for a substantial time period each winter. Fiberglass packs down slightly from that weight but mostly rebounds, cellulose packs down and mats and does not substantially recover, so over the years cellulose loses 1/3 to close to 1/2 its insulation value, fiberglass about 10%.

2) a note on radiation barriers attached to the bottom of the rafters - there are a lot of installers and homeowners making two major mistakes with this product that can cause major trouble: First, be sure to terminate it short of the eave openings. I have seen cases where it was carried all the way out to the fascia board, thereby blocking all airflow on the underside of the roof. Even carrying it all the way to the eaves along the bottom of the rafters will block off ventilation to the main attic area. You have to leave the air space between the rafters open to full airflow from the soffit/eave area ot the ridge vent. Second, do NOT run it continuous from eave to eave across the full width of the attic - leave a gap about a foot wide under the ridge vents so warm and moist air in the attic can vent through the ridge vent. Closing the ridge vent area off with the radiant barrier effectively puts a vapor barrier around the main attic area, causing retention of the moisture which WILL accumulate there, promoting mold.

?

Obviously this is not a timely response to the initial question. However, for those who may be reading these answers at a later time, a couple of added thoughts:

1) the radiant barrier being discussed is basically heavy-duty metal foil or metallized surface on a plastic sheet, intended to reflect RADIATED heat (infrared radiation - think heat light, or heat you can feel at a distance radiated from a fireplace), the same way a mirror reflects light. Radiated heat is how a standard oven broils and how steam and hot water baseboard heat predominately work.

2) you generally should do NOT place a radiant barrier over the insulation that lies between and over the joists in a normal attic, especially in a region where the attic temperature can frequently reach condensation temperature (below about 45-50 degrees) - it may reflect back some of the house heat that is coming up from the house, but by destroying most of the temperature gradient from the house to the attic air destroys much of the driving force that moves moisture to the attic air and subsequent venting. Between that greater heat and the fact the barrier is also a moisture barrier, that makes a perfect condition for mold and rot in your insulation and attic wood, and has become quite an issue in energy upgraded homes because of retrofits that cut off airflow outside the insulation, but do not cut off the moisture source leaking thorough from the house. The proper and ONLY place for a vapor barrier in a normal attic insulation system is on the pressurized and normal warm, humid side of the insulation zone - directly above the ceiling drywall in the top floor, fastened to the UNDERSIDE of the ceiling joists or trusses, NOT anywhere above that. Perforated barriers are supposed to reduce this tendency, but the perforation area percentage is so small that typically they still act as a vapor varrier, just not a totally effective one.

3) radiant barriers reflect radiated heat ewith up to 99% efficiency but have basically zero resistance to CONDUCTION (body to body heat transfer at points of contact - think heat transfer from your warm hand to a frozen cold drink can, or hot pavement heat transfer to the bottom of your feet) - so there needs to be an air gap between the radiant barrier and the hot item passing the heat to it, otherwise the heat will just pass through it by conduction. Therefore, applying it directly to the sheathing (above or below) or manufacturing it directly on the surface of the sheathing defeats its purpose, even though this is commonly done.

4) there is a lot of discussion, particularly in the professional design community, about attic radiant heat barrier effectiveness and problems. Because they are being installed on the bottom of the sheathing or underside of roof joists, they act as a heat trap for the energy being conducted through the roof which would normally radiate into the attic air or be transferred by CONVECTION (fluid flow heat transfer) to the attic air, and be vented through roof vents, ridge vents, gable vents, etc. By trapping that heat, they are causing the underside of the shingles and particularly the felt and sheathing to get a lot hotter than they otherside would, essentially changing it from a system where the shingle top surface might reach 120-180 F and the inside surface of the sheathing about 80-140F in the summer, to making the entire roof system equal to the outside surface temperature. This causes more rapid shingle deterioration and cracking, and makes the felt or plastic moisture barrier under the shingles brittle and subject to failure.

Also, any moisture above the radiant barrier (from roof leaks or humid air coming into the area) is prevented from evaporating by the attic airflow which would normally remove it, so it starts acting like a steamer. I have seen both wood and metal lofts and attics become a major mold farm in months because of this effect, and a couple of roofs which started sagging due to rotted sheathing within 2 years of reroofing with tightly adhered radiant barrier. Some radiant barriers are vapor-permeable to reduce the moisture issue, many are not, but few actually are effective in letting moisture freely escape.

Having seen these products in use, and having analyzed and specified building products for use from the Middle East to the Arctic for decades, and having a Masters in Arctic Engineering (a degree predominately in energy conservation and heat flow), my personal opinion is that these radiant barriers will be banned by code within 10-15 years for unheated (so-called "cold" roofs) roofs, because they just do not use the principles of thermodynamics correctly. For more info on this issue Google the following search phrase  - moisture trapping by radiant attic barriers       and read the government (not the manufacturer) literature on the issue.

5) Unfortunately, the right way to handle this issue is to put the radiant surface on the OUTSIDE of the house - by using reflective materials on the roofing material. This is already done with flat roofs, house trailers, and industrial structures by spraying with alumiunum paint, and a few brands offer reflective aggregate shingles that are slightly more reflective and radiant than normal shingles. People obviously do not like this reflective surface from an aesthetic standpoint, though with solar cells coming into more general use this may soon be more widely adopted. The idea should be to keep the solar energy from penetrating into the building envelope at all, not try to re-reflect it away after it has penetrated throguh the roof system.

The sprayed-in foam has a couple of issues you need to be aware of:

6) it needs to be the low-pressure expanding type mixed for use around window frames, as fully expanding foam can bow joists or trusses and pop drywall ceilings free as it expands, and non-expanding foam actually shrinks as it cures, leaving gaps for air and heat flow alongside the ceiling joists.

7) being closed-cell it is essentially impervious to moisture, so the vapor barrier on the house side has to be EXCELLENT (incuding sealingof all penetrations), or it will trap household moisture escaping into the attic and promote mold and rot in the ceiling drywall and joists.

8) it tends to bleed chemical fumes into the house for a long period of time (can be noticeable for years), which may be objectionable to some people from an odor or environmental standpoint, and especially should be considered if any residents have severe allergy issues or respiratory problems.

9) I emphatically recommend AGAINST use of sprayed-in foam between ceiling joists or truss members in any area that can have cold attic air that could cause moisture condensation in the insulation, though this is probably not a significant problem where you live, assuming your Dallas is the city in Texas. For essentially year-around air-conditioned homes in hot climates, the problem can actually be condensation of attic air moisture on and in the colder ceiling surface insulation and on cold attic runs of air conditioned air, so attic ventilation becomes a critical issue to remove the moisture before it condenses.

In summary, having seen an awful lot of attic moisture and thermal problems, my personal recommendation would be to ensure excellent sealing of the house from the attic, use normal UNFACED fiberglass insulation, and instead of a radiant barrier ensure adequate full-attic ventilation. If you decide to got with a radiant barrier, then I would recommend a perforated one, sloping up towards the sides a foot or two and stopping a foot or so clear at the sides so moist air under it can escape to the roof joist spaces and be vented from the attic. I have seen this done several times with a fine nylon net strung above the insulation in the attic, supporting the barrier, resulting in something very similar to the double-roof system used in bedouin tents, where airflow between the two layers keep the hot air away from the living space.

?
Steve made a good point.  Also, while it isn't required to remove the old insulation you can check the ductwork, wiring, etc. with the old stuff removed,  You can also spray foam around all openings and holes in wall top plates to better seal your home as Steve was pointing out.  My concern is the potential for mold spores you mentioned in your question.  If you suspect there are any get a good company in to remove the old and clean the attic.  Another concern is asbestos.  Your home is old enough you could have it in there and that's worse than mold if released into the air.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
?

A moisture barrier has to be on the warm side ie towards the heated side.  Most people would not install a moisture barrier in your situation.  (They also sell a paint that you can use on your interior ceiling? as a moisture barrier).  Rather most homeowners would hire an insulation contractor to blow a cap over the existing insulation bringing it up to your areas reccomended levels,,Your power company can tell you the level, I would guess R 40.  What you use is up to your wallet, the best is a spray foam that can be applied to the ceiling or over the whole shebang.  Being a bit of a miser I would trot on down to my local big box store and buy a truckload of cellulose and get a free blower for I and a friend to self insulte.  Big box= Menards, Lowes etc.  Cellulose= ground up paper treated with boron for insect control and fireproofing.  It has a high R value and will stop moving air loss from the home. Before you cap current mostly emply attic is ideal time to take sealant to any openings in the attic floor,  like pocket doors, canister lights electircal wires and close off the air leaks from inside.  If foaming skip this.  Hot air rises so you save yourself a ton air sealing the home.

An attic radiant barrier is also a possiblity see my blog for nifty results on it.

Jim Casper Old Energy Conservation Guru

ps moving existing insulation use a plastic rake

?

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Insulation reviews in Export

F

Rating
I called and left messages for
Export Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
three times between August 19th and 26th. They never returned any of my calls. At my husband's suggestion I sent them a message over Angie's List on August 28th.
Export Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
is unresponsive and therefore, unprofessional. They are not interested in cultivating new business.
After my third call and Angie's List message went unacknowledged, we selected a new provider from the approved NYSERDA list. My husband sent A
Export Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
Plumbing and Heating a message through Angie's List at approximately 7pm on a Monday night. They responded within the hour saying that they would call me the following day. Sure enough the following day at 9am they called and we scheduled our assessment. Still no word from Climate Chief....
I can only assume that if they are this lackadaisical about returning phone calls, they are equally so at performing their work. We will never call them again and I hope you don't either! There are contractors out there who actually want your work!
- Lindsay H.
N

Rating
Worker arrived on time. Didn't leave until around 5pm every day, and pieces of roofing material were removed.
- Elena V.
A

Rating
They were patient with all my questions before scheduling service and answered my questions thoroughly. Showed up on time and completed the work within the estimated time they stated they would. We had a credit voucher from FPL that covered more than half of the cost. We called several of the contractors that work with the FPL program, and although their quote was not the lowest, we chose them due to their reputable reviews and they were the only company that offered cellulose insulation. Overall, great service and our house finally feels comfortable!
- GISELLE S.
A

Rating
March &
Export Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
were professional in explaining the process and answered all questions upfront. On the day of the service, the technicians went over every step and addressed all concerns. When the technicians completed the job we could feel the difference right away since it was on the south side of the house. The old fiberglass insulation could not create a tight enough seal to keep the roof heat out of the second floor. I will use March &
Export Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
for all my future spray foam needs.
- Jason K.
A

Rating
We realized we had an issue when we were moving items out of our attic. The insulation was pulled down in spots, we saw droppings, and we realized we had a problem! I immediately pulled up Angie's List to find providers to help us clean up the mess and install new insulation.
Export Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
was super responsive and called me right back....More />
Export Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
, a tech from the company came on time, inspected, took pictures and discussed options. We were freaking out and concerned at the damage.
Export Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
talked us off the ledge and explained what we could expect, what was entailed in the cleanup and after the work was completed.
On the day of our appointment,
Export Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
, the project manager,
Export Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
and the rest of the team showed up on time and ready to get started. Although the company would have moved our possessions out of the attic as part of the process, we ordered a dumpster ahead of time and pulled everything out of the attic before the team arrived. We used this time as an opportunity to clean out our clutter and repackage items we were moving back to the attic after the cleanup. We wanted to ensure everything was vermin free and that items were moved to clean/new plastic storage containers.
The team was extremely friendly, efficient and professional. The process was completed around 1PM.
Export Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
walked me through the work and demonstrated areas where they needed to "rodent proof" with steel mesh." The attic smelled of the solution that they sprayed and new insulation, but no smell of animal droppings or urine. The team then moved most of the items we had repackaged back to the attic. We deferred moving some of the items as there were some spots still wet from the solution that they sprayed to disinfect and we wanted to allow some time to dry.
The team exceeded my expectations. They were easy to work with, followed up several times and answered all of my issues and concerns. They also provided my insurance company with pictures and information as requested. We called several other companies and although
Export Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
was not the lowest estimate, they were the most comprehensive, and are run by a family. The employees who came to my home were very professional and understood our concerns and worked to help us resolve a very ugly situation.
I highly recommend this company!
- Kathleen Z.
D

Rating
I contracted with them for 6" open cell foam insulation to be sprayed onto the side walls of my shop. They finished and left the bill taped to the door. Upon inspection when I got home from work I could see about 50-75% of the walls only had about 4" of insulation. I called
Export Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
the next morning and he sounded irritated that I didn't think it was good enough but he did send someone up to fix the problem. He said I would need to be there after he was done to approve it, I agreed, They called when they said they were done so I went out to inspect and they had only touched up a few places. The guy argued that I didn't need all that insulation and it wasn't an exact science and if you overfilled it you would just have to cut it off and with the knife they used it would dip in an inch and a half so I wouldn't be any better off it would just waste insulation. He also said I had 7" in places. I have 2x6 studs with 3/4 fur strips the tin is screwed to so the walls are 6 and 1/4" thick. Well he thought the three 3/4" ribs on a 3' wide piece of tin used an inch of insulation thickness!! He finally agreed to fix any areas that I pointed out. I showed him several. I had to get back to work and gave him a check. When I got home it wasn't much better than when I left. I spent 2 hours the next Saturday morning cleaning up the insulation that he didn't sweep up. I am considering contacting someone else to come in and finish the job.
- Rick B.
A

Rating
Excellent job. The crew was here for 2 days cleaning out the entire space and treating surfaces for mold/fungus. They returned for another 2.5 days to install the liner. The
Export Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
is now totally encapsulated and looks fantastic.
- Deborah O.
C

Rating
After a month after the house was looked at by the provider, I still have not received the quote. If the work is of now interest or can not be performed for any reason, the provider should share this information and do not let people hanging.

- Dominique B.

Insulation Contractors in Export, PA

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

Absolute Win

2008 Lowrie St.
Pittsburgh

AFFORDABLE HOME IMPROVEMENTS

425 Jefferson Ave
Beaver

Affordable Insulating

1015 Madison Ave

Air Duct Maintenance Inc

5892 Heckert Rd
Bakerstown

Akator Construction

374 Markle Rd
Apollo

American Building Products

17 Frontier Dr.
Gibsonia

AMERICAN CONTRACTING COMPANY INC

900 FREDERICKA DR
Pittsburgh

American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd

American Precision Contracting LLC

20 Transit Dr
Mckeesport

American Window Industries Inc

106 Rockwood Ave
Pittsburgh

ANG Development

333 blvd of the allies
Pittsburgh

ARS Pittsburgh 9001

1632 Rte 8
Glenshaw

Artistry Contracting

139 McKean Ave.
Charleroi

Benderbuilt Construction

540 Highview Rd
Pittsburgh

Betterliving Patio Rooms of Pittsburgh

5499 William Flynn Hwy
Gibsonia

Boehmer Heating & Cooling Inc

300 Hargrove St
Pittsburgh

Brighter Finish Construction

5204 Faulk Dr
Export

Burkett Building & Design

7326 Schoyer ave
Pittsburgh

C & C Home Remodeling

2917 Bethel Church Rd
Bethel Park

Carmello Construction LLC

1017 3rd St
Monessen

Chuba Heating & Remodeling Inc

922 E 8th Ave
Homestead

Collins Construction

214 Kunkle Acres Ln
Latrobe

CONSTRUCTION JUNCTION

214 N LEXINGTON ST
Pittsburgh

Critter Control of Greater Pittsburgh

1647 Butler Plank Rd.
Glenshaw

D&G HANDYMAN SERVICE

143 BERGMAN RD
Derry

DAN THE HANDYMAN

919 RANDOLPH AVE.
East Butler

DENNIS REMODELING

307 Joseph St
Pittsburgh

Dutchy's Quality Restoration

38 Loretta Street
Latrobe

Energy Eagles

103 Pheasant Rise Court
Bridgeville

Exceptional Exteriors and Renovations Inc

2319 1/2 Patterson Ave
Pittsburgh

Faust Enterprises Inc

510 Glenshannon Dr
Pittsburgh

Ferri General Contractors

3932 liberty ave
Pittsburgh

G & S Insulation Inc

2617 State Route 119 PO Box 95
Crabtree

Garner Construction Services LLC

1058 Dry Dam Rd
Jeannette

General Insulation Company

4801 Grand Ave
Pittsburgh

GM CONTRACTING

440 Pine Creek Rd
Wexford

Good Friends Handyman

301 Coleman Dr
Monroeville

Greensburg Electric

304 Harrison Ave
Greensburg

Ground Up Builders Remodelers

P.O. Box 53
Glenshaw

HAMLERS MODERN MAINTENANCE

862 Monteiro Street

HOME IMPROVEMENT CENTER

505 NEGLEY AVE.
Butler

Home Pro Automation

126 E First Ave
Latrobe

HomeTown Construction

2000 Noble St
Pittsburgh

Honeydo Construction

221 6th Avenue
New Kensington

Insulwise Energy & Comfort Solutions

244 Jamaica Ave.
Pittsburgh

Integrity Construction

1550 E Pleasant Valley Blvd
Altoona

Irwin Builders Supply

10249 Garnet Ln
Irwin

J & B Remodeling and Design

205 Wills Rd
New Kensington

Kaiser Construction

1133 Lantz Rd
Avonmore

Karl Poruben Jr. Handyman Service

P.O.Box 2124
Cranberry Twp.

Klipa Contracting Company

10600 Sophia Ct
North Huntingdon

LaBelle Homes Inc.

112 Sunrise Lane
Venetia

LEGACY REMODELING INC

3090 W LIBERTY AVE
Pittsburgh

Legerski Contracting

2909 Garbett Street
Mckeesport

Lloyd Anthony Construction Inc.

3125 Willett Rd
Pittsburgh

Lone Star Remodeling and Repair

3332 Harvard St
New Kensington

MB Remodeling, LLC.

2704 Ventana Drive
Coraopolis

MCLANE CONTRACTING INC

5644 BROWNSVILLE RD
Pittsburgh

McNemar Handyman Services

70 Forest Grove rd

MEADE PRODUCTS INC

335 MEADE ST
Pittsburgh

Meredith Home Improvement

2025 Borland Rd
Pittsburgh

Merola Co

1927 Universal Rd
Pittsburgh

MINCIN INSULATION SERVICE INC

289 BALDWIN RD
Pittsburgh

Monarch Group LLC

38316 Airport Pkwy

Paragon Concrete Raising

221 Sygan Rd
Bridgeville

Pittsburgh Foam Insulation

1396 Frey Rd
Pittsburgh

Quality Windows

3802 Logan Way

RenovateRite, Inc.

Saltsburg Rd.
Pittsburgh

Romea Roofing

825 Sharps Hill Rd
Pittsburgh

Scott Construction

458 Wendel Rd
Irwin

SL Contractors

1414 Fourth Ave
New Kensington

Soundrite-Acoustics, Inc.

209 S. Stephanie Street

Spraguerelli Construction

10 Union Avenue
Pittsburgh

STELLAR HOMES & Remodeling

267 Sandworks Road
Hunker

Superior Air Duct Cleaning

1029 4th Ave
New Brighton

T.W. Services

1412 Brinton Rd.
Pittsburgh

Terminix

201 Bursca Dr
Bridgeville

The GutterShutter Co

11820 Kemper Springs Dr Ste A

Thermo Twin Windows

1155 Allegheny Ave
Oakmont

Traeger Plastering

234 Gregg St
Monongahela

Tri State Development Inc

3706 5th Ave
North Versailles

Trim Tech construction

1557 Edgebrook Avenue
Brookline

Un-Flood-It

855 6th Ave
Brackenridge

USA Insulation of Pittsburgh

3445 Harts Run Rd
Glenshaw

W.F.Uhring Construction

201 Elm Rd.
Pittsburgh

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

WESTERN PENNSYLVANIA GEOTHERMAL HEATING & COOLING

725 SAXONBURG BLVD STE 4
Saxonburg

Woleslagle Custom Contracting

205 4th Street
Irwin

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