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A
"Each time we've had them come they have been on time, explained exactly what they were going to do, did the work, cleaned up any mess and explained everything" that had been done. The technician answers questions and offers advice on how to prevent problems too. We will have them back every year, and whenever else there is a problem with the sewer.

-Sarah F.

A
"I have used
for a good number of years, calling them every time I have a drain problem. This company is great and I recommend them to everyone." They are knowledgeable and very honest. This time a drain in my basement was backing up. The provider checked it out and assessed that my septic tank was my problem. They went out to the septic tank and took a look and found that it was filled completely to the top. They recommended that I call someone to drain the septic system and call someone to assess my problem. I did this and as it turned out, they were correct.

-Suzanne S.

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Angie's Answers

?

First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.

 

Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.

?

From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

?
It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!
?

Well , you've certainly started a debate that will endure forever , but personally , having worked with both products , PEX is a better product . Now granted , the 1st time i used it

I was not impressed , cause it leaked.......NOT because the product was at fault, it was because I did not understand how to use the product !

The trick to using Pex , is to make certain that the fittings seat, they MUST be pushed together with force, and if you do not push with force to get the seat to seal, it leaks .

Therefore , when using PEX , you have constantly to be aware of leaving room to make your connections -Properly !

The beauty of PEX is that it bends , it is flexible and decreases the labor factor ,although the connection costs are often 100-300 % higher than copper , but again , it can cut labor costs in half  and it is safer to work with,  NO FLAMEs!

?
FYI: CPVC and PEX are two different materials and installed differently.  PEX is not intended to be glued but instead has special crimp fittings.  PEX is a brand name of one product that is manufactured slightly differently by others as well so it is important that the same brand fittings are used to match the pipe material.

Mobile homes used CPVC for years and some still do.  It works fine but is not as strong as a properly soldered copper pipe system.  Is the contractor installing this new plumbing a licensed plumber?  I'd be surprised if he is since he's using CPVC and not PEX (or similar) or copper.  PEX pipe is even cheaper than CPVC when run by a knowledgable plumber.  It doesn't require nearly as many joints since it comes in rolls and can flex through spaces easily.

There are some groups raising a fuss about BPA and other chemicals found in plastics that don't like the use of CPVC, PVC, or PEX pipe.  I haven't seen the results of any lab tests to confirm or dispute their concerns.  As far as durability goes it's fairly safe as long as it's properly installed and secured.  It is not as susceptible to hard water damage as copper.  It absolutely must be insulated along it's entire length to protect it from contact to other materials as well as freezing.  Also, the fixtures in the house need to be grounded electrically since the pipe itself provides no electrical protection against accidental shock or electrocution.  In a copper plumbed house the system is grounded so static electricity, a short in a wire near a water line, or lightning strike will carry the current out through the pipe instead of through the water to you, ideally.

If it's installed correctly you should be fine but make sure the contractor knows what he is doing and follows the proper procedures to use CPVC pipe.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
www.thomeservices.com
?
It is usually cheaper to remove part of the ceiling below and patch it after the leak has been repaired.  Remember that water can travel before settling in one area, causing the spot you've seen.  Just because it is below the toilet does not mean that the toilet is the problem.  The cheapest option is to pull the toilet and check the floor around the wax ring to see if it has been leaking.  A new wax ring only costs a few dollars.  When was the last time you caulked the shower in that bathroom?  The water can leak around the corners or at the door (if you have one) and travel along the floor joists until it pools in a lower spot on the ceiling below, then seep through.  It could also be a seal at the drain of the tub or shower. 

I get a few calls a year for this sort of thing.  It's usually something simple but can be a nightmare to diagnose, especially if the problem is intermittent.  Start with the simple possibilities and use deductive reasoning to narrow the possibilities.  Before you do a lot of damage it may pay off to hire a reputable contractor to help you make sure you've exhausted all of the imple and more obvious possibilities.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services

Drain Cleaning reviews in Clifton Heights

A

Rating
It went really well: quick response, professional and high quality service, friendly and attentive worker.
- David Z.
A

Rating
I have used him for 8 years for any and every plumbing problem. I had to relocate and I really wish I could bring him with me. He is very kind and goes for beyond what is expected of him. He is very honest and a hard worker. Even though I have relocated, he still allows me to call him and ask general questions. If I had a major problem where I am now, I'd probably fly him in to take care of it.
- Patricia J.
F

Rating
I did not enjoy my experience with this company. The plumber who came out immediately told me that I needed to buy new toilets, that were very expensive, instead of repairing the problem. He also told me that I needed a brand new faucet, because the one I have is "cheap" and not worth the fix. I will not be using their services in the future.
- Paula P.
A

Rating
We contacted
Clifton Heights Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
on a Tuesday and he was able to come out the next day and accommodate our schedule. He arrived on time and was finished within an hour. The sink in our upstairs bathroom had become plugged and we tried everything we could think of to fix it, however, whatever was plugging the drain was beyond our reach. He quickly had the drain cleared and we can finally use the sink again! The cost was reasonable compared to what other companies were charging.
- Darice D.
A

Rating
Overall, I would give Roto Rooter plumber "Dallas" an "A" for his work. He was very personable, clearly explained the problem and how he was fixing it, and successfully opened the drain. He does very good work.
- Lynda C.
C

Rating
Because I felt they were trying to take advantage of me, I had the work performed by a different company even though that meant paying for everything (the water heater, installation of same, and the code upgrades) entirely out of my own pocket.
- Denise B.
A

Rating
Both times I?ve called they?ve been out the same day. The dispatcher always gives me a time when they?ll be there. The plumbers are always punctual. I wouldn?t hesitate to use them again. Any plumbing issue I associate with
Clifton Heights Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
for a solution. They also carry a book with them and they can quote you the job before the work begins. That way there are no surprises at the end.
- Randall S.
A

Rating
Phenomenally!!!! Very polite, professional, trustworthy and knowledgeable. Will not hesitate to use Will again. Very thorough, and diligent with follow-up. Thanks! I could go on, but that's enough. Heartily recommended.
- Larry H.

Drain Cleaning Companies in Clifton Heights, PA

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

3R Renovations

2534 Grant Court
Warrington

Able Mechanical & Construction

70 Blue Ridge Drive
Levittown

Advanced HVAC & Plumbing

4 Foxglove Court

Advocate Public Adjustment, LLC

1111 Roberts Ave
Feasterville Trevose

Agron Construction

10154 Bustleton Avenue
Philadelphia

Al's Mechanical

17 Surrey Drive
Southampton

all city plumbing heating and ac

515 west chelten ave
Philadelphia

ALLSYSTEMSOLAR Heating,Cooling,Plumbing,Electric

1251 Lodi Hill Rd
Upper Black Eddy

Andrew T. Ronon , Contractor

204 Grayling Ave
Narberth

Anthony Jr Builders

Philadelphia

Anthony McDermott

301 Timber Jump Ln
Media

Anton & Sons Pools LLC

193 S Shady Retreat Rd
Doylestown

Attractive Properties

9 Park Avenue
Paoli

Basement Systems USA

2092 E Old Philadelphia Rd

Bayer Plumbing Heating and Drain Cleaning

5171 Westley Drive
Clifton Heights

Beltran & Son's Improvements Inc.

7227 Ditman Street
Philadelphia

Bill Cellich Plumbing

102 Jansen Avenue
Essington

Bills Plumbing

304 Saw Grass Ct

Bleil Plumbing

1325 Arrott Street
Philadelphia

Bold Construction, LLC

3648 Greenwood Cr
Chalfont

Borzell and Norbury

227 Conestoga Rd
Wayne

Broad Street Contracting

1113 Wharton Street

BRUCKER'S HOME MAINTENANCE

599 SNYDER RD
Perkiomenville

Bryn Mawr Plumbing & Heating

19 Summit Grove Ave
Bryn Mawr

Bux-Mont Plumbing

110 Keeley Ave
New Britain

C & D Fix It

Dermond ave.
Drexel Hill

CAVELLA CONTRACTING

2818 Cedar Street
Philadelphia

Chadds Ford Climate Control, Inc.

144 Fairville Rd
Chadds Ford

CHF Mechanical Services

540 Porter St
Philadelphia

Clog Busters & Drain Service

PO Box 41154
Philadelphia

CMT General Contractors Inc

63 Colonial Park Dr
Springfield

CMW CONTRACTORS

PO BOX 31579
Philadelphia

Coffelt Contracting LLC

1500 Mohican St.
Philadelphia

Comfort Home

720 Bobbin Mill Road
Media

Common Structure LLC

4103 Unruh St.
Philadelphia

CONSTRUCTION MASTERS

3521 Parkview Dr
Bensalem

contractor chen

9885 bonner st
Philadelphia

Contractors United Together

1220 N 60 st
Philadelphia

Cullinan Plumbing & Heating LLC

7250 Edmund St
Philadelphia

D'King Construction

3914 N 7th street
Philadelphia

Dadem Contracting

922 Pitman Ave
Darby

Danh Carpentry

3926 I St
Philadelphia

DELTA PLUMBING & HEATING

4912 JACKSON DR
Brookhaven

DeLuca Plumbing

536 Michell St
Ridley Park

Dierolf Supply Company

311 County Line Rd
Gilbertsville

Family and Friends Construction

1628 N 62nd St
Philadelphia

FDL Home Repair

783 Township Line Rd
Elkins Park

Feehan Plumbing and Heating Inc

510-C Abbott Dr
Broomall

flannigan russo contractors

525 NEWTON LAKE DRIVE

Green Brothers Construction & Mgmt. LLC.

1801 Cleveland Ave.
Abington

Gregory Rossi Plumbing & Heatingrossi

9713 Glenhope
Philadelphia

Ground Up Construction

P.O.Box 1293
Havertown

Gruber & Sons

207 N Tyson Ave
Glenside

H and B Maintenance Co Inc

17 Horn rd
Levittown

HACE CONSTRUCTION SERVICES INC.

167 W. Allegheny Ave.
Philadelphia

Handyman Connection - West Chester

1440 Center St.
Westchester

Havertown Roofing & Siding

37 kathmere rd
Havertown

Hector's Home Improvement

6324 Mershon St
Philadelphia

Heyburn Plumbing and Heating Inc.

208 Mattson Road
Garnet Valley

Hidden Springs Landscaping

283 West Valley Forge Road
King Of Prussia

Higher Standards

Spring City

HODGKINSON HOME IMPROVEMENT INCORPORATED

1459 BUTTONWOOD LN
Warminster

Home Innovations Inc

12 W Lexton Rd

Homeinnovationsinc

12 W Lexton Rd

Homestead Solutions Inc.

5 Great Valley Parkway Suite 210

House Medics LLC

127 Vassar Ave

Howard Property Perservation

3110 W. Gordon St.
Philadelphia

In-A-Flash Plumbing, Heating & Air Conditioning

3864 Somers Dr.
Huntingdon Valley

J & B Handyman Services

323 Shaw Rd Apt C
Ridley Park

J Conley & Sons Inc

91 S State Rd
Upper Darby

J R CRAS

4605 STATE RD
Drexel Hill

Jay Bucks Plumbing

4173 Paul St
Philadelphia

Jay Clark Plumbing & Heating, LLC

255 Roxborough Avenue
Philadelphia

JC Remodeling Inc

522 Brookside Ave
Yeadon

JMP Plumbing

Philadelphia

JMU General Contracting

139 W Madison Ave
Clifton Heights

JOE ELECTRIC & REMODELING INC

537 foster st
Philadelphia

Joe Georgini Plumbing & Heating

Counties of Chester, Delaware, Montgomery &
The Main Line & Philadelphia

Joel R Amin Plumbing, LLC

205 Cherry Blossom Pl.

John Gallagher & Sons

8 Nice Rd.
Thornton

John Luke Plumbing & Heating

2720 Stoney Creek Rd
Broomall

JOSEPH FUNARI PUBLIC ADJUSTERS

2951 S 16TH ST
Philadelphia

Joseph Kelso Plumbing

152 Signal Road
Drexel Hill

Katilas Plumbing

1936 E. Pacific st
Philadelphia

Keith Wilson Contracting

70 Old Dublin Pk. G-7
Doylestown

Kerr General Construction

688 S Gulph Rd
King Of Prussia

Kerry's Handyman Service

3569 Station Ave
Center Valley

Leakfix Plumbing

PO Box 1046
Media

Legacy Construction Company LLC

2222 W Indiana Ave
Philadelphia,

LITTLE ROCK CONSTRUCTION

123 ROUNDHILL RD

M&M Contracting

3248 St Vincent St
Philadelphia

M.D. Mason Plumbing & Heating LLC

731 Braxton Rd.
Ridley Park

Mainline Plumbing Service Inc

43 Narragansett Lane
Coatesville

McIntosh Plumbing LLC

PO box 1146
Lansdowne

MDC Builders LLC

407 Echo Dell Rd
Downingtown

Melograno Plumbing & Drain Services

716 Milmont Avenue
Swarthmore

MICHAEL J MAKARA PLUMBING & HEATING

38 N CENTRAL AVE
Jenkintown

MICHAEL O' KANE INC

346 DARBY RD
Havertown

Moore Builds LLC

45 Long Bow Drive

Morris Home Remodeling

2206 S Bucknell
Philadelphia

Moyer & Son Inc

113 E Reliance Rd
Souderton

Mr. Rooter of Montgomery & Chester County

1151 S Trooper Rd
Norristown

Mystique

Philadelphia

Nasella Construction

415 Lindsay Street
Ridley Park

New Jersey Repair

417 Lafayette Ave

NordCo General Contractors

Sartain street
Philadelphia

Nunez contruction

2068 E clemintine street

NUSCA

Philadelphia

O'Donahue Family Contractors

2836 Woodbridge Rd
Philadelphia

OBrien's Drain Cleaning

6817 Jackson Street
Philadelphia

P G TEDESCO CONSTRUCTION

32 Barren Rd.
Newtown Square

P&G General Contracting

2251 W Hunting Park Ave
Philadelphia

Palmerio Plumbing

107 Fairbrook Dr
Gilbertsville

Paradigm Home Solutions

815 Greenwood Ave
Jenkintown

Paramount Estates LLC

13 E Plumstead Ave
Lansdowne

Patrick McCloskey Plumbing

Po Box 667
Conshohocken

PDM Construction

8012 English Creek Ave

Personal Plumbing & Drain Cleaning

7051 Germantown Ave
Philadelphia

Personal Plumbing & Drain Cleaning LLC

7051 Germantown Ave
Philadelphia

PERTI PLUMBING & HEATING

3665 MARKET ST
Aston

Petro Home Services

650 Knowles Ave
Southampton

Pinnacle Mechanical

1019 Saville Ave
Crum Lynne

Pipeline Drain Cleaning

8 W. Garrison Road
Brookhaven

Plumb Right Plumbing LLC

8237 Buist Ave
Philadelphia

Plumbing Boys

545 E Luray St
Philadelphia

Powell's Plumbing & Heating

361 Mount Royal Rd

Precision Builders, Inc

1148 Pulaski Hywy Suite 107-458

Precision Plus Plumbing

PO Box 963
Bala Cynwyd

Precison Sewer Services, LLC

P.O. Box 247
Gradyville

Quantum Environmental Enterprise

858 Easkey Ln
Avondale

Quick Services

604 Pomona Rd

Quillen Contacting, Inc

513 Keebler Rd
King Of Prussia

RDC Services

507 Deer Lane
West Chester

RDLconstruction llc

621 andrea rd

RICHARD S PANDOLFI INC

606 CONSHOHOCKEN STATE RD
Narberth

Rightway Waterproofing Co

3300 Agate St
Philadelphia

Riker Mechanical

3200 Township Line Road
Drexel Hill

RJD Home Construction

Newtown Square

Robert J Murphy & Sons

211 Collings Wood Rd
Fairless Hills

Robert Maffei Mechanical

P.O. Box 852
Oaks

RT Plumbing Services LLC

355 W Main Street
Norristown

RZ Contracting

219 Mac Dade Blvd
Milmont Park

S & D Mechanical LLC

1069 Green Glen Drive
Garnet Valley

Sager Restoration Services

1602 Frankford Ave
Philadelphia

SAS Claims

101 Commerce Dr, Suite 100
Montgomeryville

sdk services

po box 2363

Sentinel Public Adjusters

637 Barton Run Blvd

Silver Rook

3823 Lancaster Ave.
Philadelphia

Sipe Construction Inc

PO Box 26042
Philadelphia

Smucker Mechanical, LLC

5490 Elam Rd
Gap

Society Hill Design Group, LLC

1221 Mount Vernon St
Philadelphia

SRS General Contractor

1602 Frankford Ave
Philadelphia

Stephen H. Wagner General Contractor

214 Norwood Street
Mont Clare

Steve's Plumbing Heating

8001 Castor Ave
Philadelphia

Steve's Remodeling & Handyman Services LLC

1638 Packer Ave
Philadelphia

Stone Brothers Contracting

4204 Hulmeville Rd
Bensalem

Suburban General Remodelers LLC

457 Penn Ave
Drexel Hill

SULLIVAN CO

4709 Edgemont street
Philadelphia

TB Construction Inc

6144 Cottage St
Philadelphia

TGT Interiors LLC

417 broad st

The Golden Hand

PO Box 384
Chester Springs

The Handy Helpers

1600 Willow Ave
Elkins Park

THE IRISH PLUMBER

555 CLAYMONT AVE
Langhorne

The Plumber Inc

641 Lancaster Avenue
Malvern

TheHandyPros.com

310 W 10th Ave
Conshohocken

Tim Dean Plumbing & Heating LLC

24 Hunter drive
Glenmoore

TJ's Painting & Renovations Co

230 Old Forge Crossing
Devon

Tom Golden Plumbing

87 Dilworthtown Rd
Thornton

Topnotch construction

2363 E Dauphin St
Philadelphia

TSQ Plumbing & Heating

350 Strathmore Rd
Havertown

UGI Heating Cooling & Plumbing

2121 City Line Rd
Bethlehem

UGI Heating Cooling & Plumbing

2221 Sycamore St
Harrisburg

Unlimited Plumbing Solutions

515 Faith Dr
Norristown

US Sewer and Drain, Inc.

PO Box 1072
Langhorne

Value Appliance Service

1517 WALTER AVENUE
Sharon Hill

valuebathandkitchen

7030 millcreek rd
Levittown

Worthington Plumbing & Heating LLC

PO Box 428
Newtown Square

Ye Olde Village Workshop, LLC

113 Golf Drive
Mountainhome

Zoom Drain & Sewer Service

915 S Trooper Rd
Norristown

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