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" Very well, the contractor phoned and explained my situation. He requested that I authorize the work and then he can be more precise about the price. The price" was not reduced. He did the job he was contracted to do. The tech also suggested using a giological flush each month to prevent the future clogs. mily

-Mark Z.

"As usual went well, have used before. Very honest, does good work, has good rates, and squeezed us in due to an inspection deadline. Recommend" and if we weren't moving out of town he would stay our go to plumber.

-Derek R.

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Angie's Answers


First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.


Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.


From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!

You have not said how old your house is, what normal water line life in your area is, whether it is leaking under the foundation or under the yard, etc. Cost depends a great deal on length of run, depth to dig to get below frost line, whether excavation will be through trees or other obstructions or open area, whether ground along route is too steep for a backhoe to work on, etc.

The first thing you really need to figure out is whether this is a spot repair issue, or a total line replacement issue. Your plumber should be able to help with that determination.  Very general rule of thumb - very old line from before 80's, if galvanized pipe, could be at its practical life and be ready for total replacement. Copper line generally last about 50-70 years UNLESS in a corrosive soil environment or if it has groundwater flowing actively past it, then can be 20-30 years. Plastic lines from the 60's to 80's vary a lot - from as little as 10 years to 50 plus dependingon brand. Plastic lines (PVC, HDPE, PE) from the 80's and later are expected to last 50-100 years - most have not failed yet, so no good handle on how long they will last.

An above-ground or under the slab line a plumber will do. Buried line outside he generally subcontracts to an excavator to dig and backfill the line, or asks you to get the excavation done.


If section needing replacement is under your floor slab or foundation, then a full replacement can be many thousands of $ depending on how many linear feet, and if interior flooring will have to be replaced or if you are on a bare concrete slab or bringing the new line in above-ground once you get through the foundation. A simple one-spot buried pipe repair (based on acoustic locating and precisely measuring the location of the problem) can be as little as $400 but probably more often $1000 or so - more if poor access like under a slab underneath stairs.

If the runs to be replaced are exposed in a crawl space or basement than it can run as little as $20/LF (probably $400 minimum job cost) to replace.


Outside line to the street can run from as little as $10/LF in areas where the pipe is shallow (no annual frost penetration) and in easy digging soil, to $250/LF or more if deeply buried, have to excavate through trees and heavy roots or boulders, steep topography, other utility interferences etc. Generally not more than $50/LF. Commonly, instead of digging up the old line, they select a new semi-parallel route from a good connection point for you existing interior water lines at the foundation (maybe not where it currently comes in, depoending on access) to the street main shutoff valve (called a "key box", taking a route between them that is easiest to get a backhoe into and minimizes destruction of valuable plantings or trees. A number of $50/LF is commonly tossed around as "normal" for this type of job, if exceeding 100 feet or so and digging and access conditions are normal.

If your connection is in the middle of the street rather than along your side in the yard, that can easily add $2-5,000 to the job, as the water utility usually has to do that part, and repair the street afterwards. In a major throughway street, even more because of traffic control, multi-agency permits, etc.


As always, find 2-3 responsible, well-recommended (Anglie's List ?) contractors, and then get bids. The route I would go is first go with your regular plumber to locate the leak (probably acoustically, by listening for the leak) and determine the scope of work needed, then if major, go for multiple bids.



Well , you've certainly started a debate that will endure forever , but personally , having worked with both products , PEX is a better product . Now granted , the 1st time i used it

I was not impressed , cause it leaked.......NOT because the product was at fault, it was because I did not understand how to use the product !

The trick to using Pex , is to make certain that the fittings seat, they MUST be pushed together with force, and if you do not push with force to get the seat to seal, it leaks .

Therefore , when using PEX , you have constantly to be aware of leaving room to make your connections -Properly !

The beauty of PEX is that it bends , it is flexible and decreases the labor factor ,although the connection costs are often 100-300 % higher than copper , but again , it can cut labor costs in half  and it is safer to work with,  NO FLAMEs!

FYI: CPVC and PEX are two different materials and installed differently.  PEX is not intended to be glued but instead has special crimp fittings.  PEX is a brand name of one product that is manufactured slightly differently by others as well so it is important that the same brand fittings are used to match the pipe material.

Mobile homes used CPVC for years and some still do.  It works fine but is not as strong as a properly soldered copper pipe system.  Is the contractor installing this new plumbing a licensed plumber?  I'd be surprised if he is since he's using CPVC and not PEX (or similar) or copper.  PEX pipe is even cheaper than CPVC when run by a knowledgable plumber.  It doesn't require nearly as many joints since it comes in rolls and can flex through spaces easily.

There are some groups raising a fuss about BPA and other chemicals found in plastics that don't like the use of CPVC, PVC, or PEX pipe.  I haven't seen the results of any lab tests to confirm or dispute their concerns.  As far as durability goes it's fairly safe as long as it's properly installed and secured.  It is not as susceptible to hard water damage as copper.  It absolutely must be insulated along it's entire length to protect it from contact to other materials as well as freezing.  Also, the fixtures in the house need to be grounded electrically since the pipe itself provides no electrical protection against accidental shock or electrocution.  In a copper plumbed house the system is grounded so static electricity, a short in a wire near a water line, or lightning strike will carry the current out through the pipe instead of through the water to you, ideally.

If it's installed correctly you should be fine but make sure the contractor knows what he is doing and follows the proper procedures to use CPVC pipe.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services

Drain Cleaning reviews in Clifton Heights


was very timely in meeting appointments and project start time. Due to tricky path around existing electrical system got a second opinion on the project and provided alternative recommendations. He and his team completed the work in one 12 hour day which we expected would take at least 2 days. He was ...More so concerned with appearance of visible work that he returned and redid a tricky connection to improve appearance. Team was extremely flexible working around family events and minimized time water service was shut down.
- Guy D.

I explained the problem, shared what I knew about the layout of the underground sewer lines, and the plumber got to work. We were surprised to find a large knot of paper/rags of some sort in the drain, but it was quickly and efficiently removed and we're now back to free-running drains. Prompt and efficient; great service.
- Durwin S.

He was able to give us a quick appointment, showed up on time, assessed the problem, had to go to Lowes for parts, and replaces some clogged filters that were causing the low pressure issue. He was done quickly and we were up and running in no time!

Everything was fantastic. I called that day about scheduling a main line clean and was pleasantly surprised that they were available same day. They arrived when they said they would. The two gentlemen who performed the service were courteous and knowledgeable. They left everything as it was, not an item out of place when the work was complete. ...More I was very pleased with the price, it was much lower than the other places I contacted. I have already added them to my address book, there is no question that I would use them again :)
One last bit I can't forget, I received a call after the service was performed to make sure everything was done to my satisfaction. Above and beyond customer service that seems to be lost theses days!!
- Nichole S.

My husband and I had a really great experience with this company! Our sewer line backed up and we tried to snake it with another company but it didn't work so we had to hydro jet the clogged pipe. Unfortunately it ended up being a much bigger problem than just a clog. There were a lot of roots but we also saw that part of the sewer line had ...More collapsed and it was in a place that wasn't easy to access. :( Their crew came out quickly, they were very professional and they showed me everything that was going on until I understood it. Then they worked with me to go over the options for repairs until we found the best option, which I was really pleased with. Then the best thing - they moved quickly - which was great because we couldn't take showers or flush our toilets, etc.!! Their workers - Gio and Michi and a few others - were really considerate, friendly and extremely hard-working. I was very impressed with their work ethic! The supervisor, , was really friendly and helpful and helped to work out a good deal, along with the owner. They seemed more focused on getting the job done right and finding the best solution and not on running up a huge bill. The guys were at our house for 3 days and they worked hard - even coming in all day on Saturday to get our plumbing up and running as quickly as possible. I really appreciated their efforts to finish the job as quickly as possible!!! All in all, I was really pleased with their prices, their quality and their work ethic. I would definitely recommend them and use them again myself.
- holly Q.

I have currently employed the plumbing services of " " on three occasions and have been very satisfied each time with the professionalism of Mr. (the owner). I am in the real estate business and have over the years employed many plumbers and Mr. is the best of those. He ...More offers suggestions/options and provides detailed answers to all of my questions. You feel that he thinks problems thru and does not rush a job in order to finish quickly and get paid. I would highly recommend ' " to all Angie's List members.

returned our message promptly. He was available to to do the repair work in about an hour and a half. He arrived before the estimated time. He was friendly and professional. He inspected the leak and recommended that we replace both the hot and cold water pipe due to the age and condition of the pipes. We agreed to his recommendation. ...More He used copper pipes and completed the work in about two hours. The workmanship was excellent! We would recommend using for your plumbing needs.
- Greg Y.

Although the appointment had been scheduled for early in the morning, came only a couple of hours later. When I called the office it took a while till called me back. She apologized for the delay because of unforeseen problems with another job. Because the bathroom shower drain was blocked she snaked ...More the drain. She ran the cable a couple of times down the drain. Although nothing could be brought up, there seemed to be something resisting the snake. could eventually destroy the blockage. She also tested all other drains in the house. worked very thoroughly and explained what and why she was doing it. She is very friendly and professional. Except of the scheduling and responsiveness which was not optimal in my case I was very pleased with her work. I will hire her again.
- Gudrun N.

Drain Cleaning Companies in Clifton Heights, PA

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

3R Renovations

2534 Grant Court

_United Home Services

4200 Bethlehem Pike

A G Sewer Repair, LLC

6703 Ditman Street

A Plus 1 General Contracting LLC

151 e mt Vernon st

Able Mechanical & Construction

70 Blue Ridge Drive

ACI Adjustment Group

4459 W. Swamp Rd.

Advanced HVAC & Plumbing

4 Foxglove Court

Advocate Public Adjustment, LLC

1111 Roberts Ave
Feasterville Trevose

Agron Construction

10154 Bustleton Avenue

Al's Mechanical

17 Surrey Drive

all city plumbing heating and ac

515 west chelten ave

All Service Plus LLC

935 South Black Horse Pike

ALLSYSTEMSOLAR Heating,Cooling,Plumbing,Electric

1251 Lodi Hill Rd
Upper Black Eddy


405 Boxwood rd.

Andrew T. Ronon , Contractor

204 Grayling Ave

Anthony Jr Builders


Anthony McDermott

301 Timber Jump Ln

Anton & Sons Pools LLC

193 S Shady Retreat Rd

Aqua Pro

3580 witte st

Arrowhead Plumbing

11 warfel dr. p.o. box 81

Bayer Plumbing Heating and Drain Cleaning

5171 Westley Drive
Clifton Heights

Beltran & Son's Improvements Inc.

7227 Ditman Street

Big Paulie's

111 S chester rd apt 2a

Big Ron's construction

4219 Barnett street

Bill Cellich Plumbing

102 Jansen Avenue

Bills Plumbing

304 Saw Grass Ct

Bleil Plumbing

1325 Arrott Street

Bold Construction, LLC

3648 Greenwood Cr

Borzell and Norbury

227 Conestoga Rd

Brendan Walsh Plumbing and Underground Solutions

117 E Madison Avenue
Clifton Heights

Broad Street Contracting

1113 Wharton Street

Brown Brothers Construction

4823 N Broad St



Bryn Mawr Plumbing & Heating

19 Summit Grove Ave
Bryn Mawr

Bux-Mont Plumbing

110 Keeley Ave
New Britain

C & D Fix It

Dermond ave.
Drexel Hill


2818 Cedar Street

Chadds Ford Climate Control Inc

144 Fairville Rd
Chadds Ford

Charles Moon Plumbing & Heating

2901 Philadelphia Pike

Checklist Handyman Services

428 Highland Ave.

CHF Mechanical Services

540 Porter St

ChillAir HVAC

P.O. Box 573

Choice Home Warranty

1090 King Georges Post Rd

City Plumbing

2526 E Cambria St

Clog Busters & Drain Service

PO Box 41154

CMT General Contractors Inc

63 Colonial Park Dr


PO BOX 31579

Coffelt Contracting LLC

1500 Mohican St.

Comfort Home

720 Bobbin Mill Road

Common Structure LLC

4103 Unruh St


3521 Parkview Dr

contractor chen

9885 bonner st

Contractors United Together

1220 N 60 st

Cullinan Plumbing & Heating LLC

7250 Edmund St

D'King Construction

3914 N 7th street

Dadem Contracting

922 Pitman Ave

Danh Carpentry

3926 I St



DeLuca Plumbing

536 Michell St
Ridley Park

Dierolf Supply Company

311 County Line Rd

Dignity Community Construction

2509 W Lehigh Ave

Family and Friends Construction

1628 N 62nd St

Family Construction Inc.

2650 E Juniata Street

FDL Home Repair

783 Township Line Rd
Elkins Park

Feehan Plumbing and Heating Inc

510-C Abbott Dr

Ferko's Home Improvements

1803 Strahle St.

Fripps Brothers Plumbing & Heating

7315 Sycamore Ave
Elkins Park


76 Laver Rd

Garnet Homes

2002 Renaissance Blvd, Suite 270
King Of Prussia

Garrett Plumbing and Heating

PO Box 0053

Garry's Plumbing, Heating, & Mechanical, LLC

1700 Webster Street

Gartland Plumbing & Heating

204 Bortondale Rd.

Get "it" Done Home Repair

606 Pine Ridge Road

Glenn Renovations & Remodeling

223 E Rockland St

Green Brothers Construction & Mgmt. LLC.

1801 Cleveland Ave.

Ground Up Construction

P.O.Box 1293

Gruber & Sons

207 N Tyson Ave

H and B Maintenance Co Inc

17 Horn rd


167 W. Allegheny Ave.

Havertown Roofing & Siding

37 kathmere rd

Hector's Home Improvement

6324 Mershon St

Heritage Builders and Remodelers LLC

3600 Welsh Rd

Heyburn Plumbing and Heating Inc.

208 Mattson Road
Garnet Valley

Hidden Springs Landscaping

283 West Valley Forge Road
King Of Prussia

Higher Standards

Spring City



Home Innovations Inc

12 W Lexton Rd


12 W Lexton Rd

Homestead Solutions Inc.

5 Great Valley Parkway Suite 210

J & B Handyman Services

323 Shaw Rd Apt C
Ridley Park

J Conley & Sons Inc

91 S State Rd
Upper Darby


Drexel Hill

J Stachon Plumbing Co

812 Champlain Ave

J.M Property Services

p.o box 133

J.M. Hughes & Sons Inc.


Jack G Plumbing & Heating

512 Polo Run
West Chester

Jay Bucks Plumbing

4173 Paul St

JMP Plumbing


JMU General Contracting

139 W Madison Ave
Clifton Heights


537 foster st

Joe Georgini Plumbing & Heating

Serving Pennsylvania & Delaware
Also Serving Parts Of Philadelohia

Joel R Amin Plumbing, LLC

205 Cherry Blossom Pl.

John Gallagher & Sons

8 Nice Rd.

John Luke Plumbing & Heating

2720 Stoney Creek Rd


2951 S 16TH ST

JYJR Contracting LLC

732 Melon Terrace

Keith Wilson Contracting

70 Old Dublin Pk. G-7

Kerr General Construction

688 S Gulph Rd
King Of Prussia

Leakfix Plumbing

PO Box 1046

Legacy Construction Company LLC

150 Monument Rd
Bala Cynwyd

Leupold Plumbing

77 Plumbridge Dr

Little Rock Construction

123 Roundhill Rd

M&M Contracting

3248 St Vincent St

M.D. Mason Plumbing & Heating LLC

731 Braxton Rd.
Ridley Park

Madsen Mechanical Inc.

2901 Springfield Road

Mathews' Home Improvement

7040 Saybrook Ave

Mattioni Plumbing Heating and Cooling Inc

202 W Uwchlan Ave

Max Quality Plumbing, Drain Cleaning

4436 Rosemont Ave
Drexel Hill

McGillian & Donnelly LLC

3818 Sharp St

McIntosh Plumbing LLC

PO box 1146

MDC Builders LLC

407 Echo Dell Rd

Melograno Plumbing & Drain Services

716 Milmont Avenue

MJV Construction

325 Cantrell St

Moore Builds LLC

45 Long Bow Drive

Morris Home Remodeling

2206 S Bucknell

Moyer Indoor | Outdoor

113 E Reliance Rd

Mr Rooter of Montgomery & Chester County

1151 S Trooper Rd


230 Kings Highwas East Suite 195



Nasella Construction

415 Lindsay Street
Ridley Park

New Jersey Repair

417 Lafayette Ave

No-Dig Pipeliners

PO Box 608

NordCo General Contractors

Sartain street

Nunez contruction

2068 E clemintine street



O'Donahue Family Contractors

2836 Woodbridge Rd

OBrien's Drain Cleaning

6817 Jackson Street

On-Demand Services

412 Park Ave


32 Barren Rd.
Newtown Square

P&G General Contracting

2251 W Hunting Park Ave

Palmerio Plumbing

107 Fairbrook Dr

Paradigm Home Solutions

815 Greenwood Ave

Paramount Estates LLC

143 Golf Rd

Patrick McCloskey Plumbing

Po Box 667

PDM Construction

8012 English Creek Ave

Personal Plumbing & Drain Cleaning

7051 Germantown Ave

Personal Plumbing & Drain Cleaning LLC

7051 Germantown Ave



Petro Home Services

650 Knowles Ave

PHR Maintenance & contracting

604 Gay St.

Pinnacle Mechanical

1019 Saville Ave
Crum Lynne

Pipeline Drain Cleaning

8 W. Garrison Road

Pixel Millions Online

2034 S 21 Street

Plumb Right Plumbing LLC

8237 Buist Ave

Plumbing Boys

545 E Luray St

Powell's Plumbing & Heating

361 Mount Royal Rd

Precision Builders, Inc

1148 Pulaski Hywy Suite 107-458

Precision Plus Plumbing

PO Box 963
Bala Cynwyd

Precison Sewer Services, LLC

P.O. Box 247

Progressive Pipe

1490 Imperial Way

Proton Electric Inc


Quality Comfort Inc

400 south Springfield Rd
Clifton Heights

Quantum Environmental Enterprise

858 Easkey Ln

Quantum Environmental Enterprise

858 Easkey Ln

Quick Services

604 Pomona Rd

Quillen Contacting, Inc

513 Keebler Rd
King Of Prussia

RDC Services

507 Deer Lane
West Chester

RDG Construction

39 Tanglewood Dr.

RDLconstruction llc

621 andrea rd



Rightway Waterproofing Co

3300 Agate St

Riker Mechanical

3200 Township Line Road
Drexel Hill

RJD Home Construction

Newtown Square

Robert Maffei Mechanical

P.O. Box 852

RT Plumbing Services LLC

355 W Main Street

RZ Contracting

219 Mac Dade Blvd
Milmont Park

S & D Mechanical LLC

1069 Green Glen Drive
Garnet Valley

Sager Restoration Services

1602 Frankford Ave

SAS Claims

101 Commerce Dr, Suite 100

sdk services

po box 2363

Sentinel Public Adjusters

637 Barton Run Blvd

Silver Rook

3823 Lancaster Ave.

Simple Drain Repairs

1702 Industrial Highway

Sipe Construction Inc

PO Box 26042

Smucker Mechanical, LLC

5490 Elam Rd

SRS General Contractor

1602 Frankford Ave

Stephen H. Wagner General Contractor

214 Norwood Street
Mont Clare

Steve's Plumbing Heating

8001 Castor Ave

Steve's Remodeling & Handyman Services LLC

1638 Packer Ave

Stone Brothers Contracting

4204 Hulmeville Rd

Suburban General Remodelers LLC

457 Penn Ave
Drexel Hill


4709 Edgemont street

svc remodeling

6535 Chestnut Ave

Tabernacle Plumbing Co

270 Medford Lakes Rd

TB Construction Inc

6144 Cottage St

TGT Interiors LLC

417 broad st

The Golden Hand

PO Box 384
Chester Springs

The Handy Helpers

1600 Willow Ave
Elkins Park



The Philly Homesmith LLC

45 City Ave
Bala Cynwyd

The Pipeshark Inc

PO Box 187
Saint Peters

The Plumber Inc

641 Lancaster Avenue


310 W 10th Ave

Thorne-Grove Management

2633 N Chadwick st

Tim Dean Plumbing & Heating LLC

24 Hunter drive

TJ's Painting & Renovations Co

230 Old Forge Crossing

Tom Campbell Plumbing LLP

201 E Glenolden Ave

Tom Golden Plumbing

87 Dilworthtown Rd

Topnotch construction

2363 E Dauphin St

Total Facilities Management, LLC

352 East Airy Street

Transcend Plumbing LLC

9200 Bustleton ave

Trotter Services

4713 Wingate Street

TSQ Plumbing & Heating

350 Strathmore Rd

TWJ Home Services

140 Colony Trail

UGI Heating Cooling & Plumbing

2121 City Line Rd

UGI Heating Cooling & Plumbing

2221 Sycamore St

Unlimited Plumbing Solutions

515 Faith Dr

US Sewer and Drain, Inc.

PO Box 1072

Value Appliance Service

Sharon Hill


7030 millcreek rd

varo and lex contracting

6710 akron st

Versatile renovation solutions

7321 ogontz ave

Worthington Plumbing & Heating LLC

PO Box 428
Newtown Square

Ye Olde Village Workshop, LLC

113 Golf Drive

Zoom Drain & Sewer Service

915 S Trooper Rd

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