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"Fantastic people to deal with from the initial energy audit through cleanup after the job. One of the reasons I went with Dolphin was my dealings with
" P, their on-staff engineer.
came by for the initial energy audit and was not only incredibly knowledgable in building sciences but a real pleasure to deal with. He outlined the different options and how they would address both reducing my energy costs but also minimizing the chances of ice dams. The crew did the work we agreed to over 3 days. I'm very meticulous when it comes to caring for my home, and the crew was incredibly thorough in both protecting the finished areas of the house as well as cleaning up after the job was completed. I'm allergic to fiberglass and they went out of their way to minimize my exposure to it. Each day the crew arrived on-time and were great to deal with, answering any questions or concerns I have. When the work was done,
stopped by to discuss all the work and they even sent before and after pictures of all the work. I can't say enough good things about
and the other fine folks I dealt with at Dolphin. As a final unbiased review of the quality of their work, my town building inspector stopped by to inspect the final product and even he raved about the excellent job they did. Dolphin has my highest recommendation.

-Ron R.

"Each time I contacted them through the Angie's List email system, it took a couple of days to respond. After the third email, they stopped responding.

-Jonathan D.

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Local Articles in Beaver

Avoid Ice Dams With Proper Attic Insulation

An ice dam can cause serious problems to your roof without proper insulation.

attic access door able to convert to room
Remodeling - General, Insulation

Wish you had more room in your home? Attics have room for you to convert into living space.

By properly insulating your attic you can keep warm air from escaping and save money on your energy bills. (Photo courtesy of Vinay S. of North Brunswick, New Jersey)

Hot air rises … but good insulation can keep your energy costs from doing the same thing.

Better air quality, quieter living spaces, comfort and better health are all reasons to reconsider your insulation choices. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Roseanne J. of Seattle)

Not just for new construction, learn how foam insulation can be placed inside existing walls to make your home more comfortable.

While traditional fiberglass insulation is affordable and efficient, injection foam insulation can offer even more benefits. (Photo by Summer Galyan)

Insulation isn't sexy, but it can keep you cool at night.

Angie's Answers


If you go the Better Business Bureau website you can see that the company has only had two complaints in the last 18 months and that they have both been resolved.  The company has an A+ rating.  This is not something you can buy.


There are genuine reviews on many 3rd party online review sites including AngiesList and the Better Business Bureau.  Simply do a Google search for "Smart Energy Today Reviews".


Sol Blanket Insulation acts as a radiant barrier, insulation and a vapor barrier.  It is not intended to replace traditional insulation but in fact compliments it and adds to it's ability to keep cool/hot air (depending on the season) in the home when the envelope of the home is properly sealed.  


Every attic is different and there are many other components that must be considered.  You mentioned an attic fan as well.  The heat that is radiated away from the ceiling by the Sol-Blanket Insulation is pushed out of the attic with an attic fan.  The US Department of Energy states that radiant barriers do work and suggest they be installed by professionals.


As with any product by any company if the product is not installed properly and other factors (attic fan, caulking and sealing, etc...) are not addressed then it will not be as effective.


A couple of comments about what Jim said:

1) Regarding type of insulation, in cold winter environments: Cellulose and fiberglass are actually about comparable in R value when installed - blown in cellulose runs from 3.2-3.8 R value, fiberglass batt 2.9-4.3 R value depending on manufacturer and whether hig-density or low density, high-efficiency or standard, according to official Department of Energy publications. Measured values in attic test cases, in areas with a true winter, after 10 years showed a decrease from 3.4 (in the test case) down to 2.1 for cellulose, and 3.5 to 3.3 for fiberglass batt, due to packing or matting. In an attic environment, there WILL be condensation or frost on the insulation at some point during the year (assuming an area with true winters) and in highly insulated houses commonly for a substantial time period each winter. Fiberglass packs down slightly from that weight but mostly rebounds, cellulose packs down and mats and does not substantially recover, so over the years cellulose loses 1/3 to close to 1/2 its insulation value, fiberglass about 10%.

2) a note on radiation barriers attached to the bottom of the rafters - there are a lot of installers and homeowners making two major mistakes with this product that can cause major trouble: First, be sure to terminate it short of the eave openings. I have seen cases where it was carried all the way out to the fascia board, thereby blocking all airflow on the underside of the roof. Even carrying it all the way to the eaves along the bottom of the rafters will block off ventilation to the main attic area. You have to leave the air space between the rafters open to full airflow from the soffit/eave area ot the ridge vent. Second, do NOT run it continuous from eave to eave across the full width of the attic - leave a gap about a foot wide under the ridge vents so warm and moist air in the attic can vent through the ridge vent. Closing the ridge vent area off with the radiant barrier effectively puts a vapor barrier around the main attic area, causing retention of the moisture which WILL accumulate there, promoting mold.


Obviously this is not a timely response to the initial question. However, for those who may be reading these answers at a later time, a couple of added thoughts:

1) the radiant barrier being discussed is basically heavy-duty metal foil or metallized surface on a plastic sheet, intended to reflect RADIATED heat (infrared radiation - think heat light, or heat you can feel at a distance radiated from a fireplace), the same way a mirror reflects light. Radiated heat is how a standard oven broils and how steam and hot water baseboard heat predominately work.

2) you generally should do NOT place a radiant barrier over the insulation that lies between and over the joists in a normal attic, especially in a region where the attic temperature can frequently reach condensation temperature (below about 45-50 degrees) - it may reflect back some of the house heat that is coming up from the house, but by destroying most of the temperature gradient from the house to the attic air destroys much of the driving force that moves moisture to the attic air and subsequent venting. Between that greater heat and the fact the barrier is also a moisture barrier, that makes a perfect condition for mold and rot in your insulation and attic wood, and has become quite an issue in energy upgraded homes because of retrofits that cut off airflow outside the insulation, but do not cut off the moisture source leaking thorough from the house. The proper and ONLY place for a vapor barrier in a normal attic insulation system is on the pressurized and normal warm, humid side of the insulation zone - directly above the ceiling drywall in the top floor, fastened to the UNDERSIDE of the ceiling joists or trusses, NOT anywhere above that. Perforated barriers are supposed to reduce this tendency, but the perforation area percentage is so small that typically they still act as a vapor varrier, just not a totally effective one.

3) radiant barriers reflect radiated heat ewith up to 99% efficiency but have basically zero resistance to CONDUCTION (body to body heat transfer at points of contact - think heat transfer from your warm hand to a frozen cold drink can, or hot pavement heat transfer to the bottom of your feet) - so there needs to be an air gap between the radiant barrier and the hot item passing the heat to it, otherwise the heat will just pass through it by conduction. Therefore, applying it directly to the sheathing (above or below) or manufacturing it directly on the surface of the sheathing defeats its purpose, even though this is commonly done.

4) there is a lot of discussion, particularly in the professional design community, about attic radiant heat barrier effectiveness and problems. Because they are being installed on the bottom of the sheathing or underside of roof joists, they act as a heat trap for the energy being conducted through the roof which would normally radiate into the attic air or be transferred by CONVECTION (fluid flow heat transfer) to the attic air, and be vented through roof vents, ridge vents, gable vents, etc. By trapping that heat, they are causing the underside of the shingles and particularly the felt and sheathing to get a lot hotter than they otherside would, essentially changing it from a system where the shingle top surface might reach 120-180 F and the inside surface of the sheathing about 80-140F in the summer, to making the entire roof system equal to the outside surface temperature. This causes more rapid shingle deterioration and cracking, and makes the felt or plastic moisture barrier under the shingles brittle and subject to failure.

Also, any moisture above the radiant barrier (from roof leaks or humid air coming into the area) is prevented from evaporating by the attic airflow which would normally remove it, so it starts acting like a steamer. I have seen both wood and metal lofts and attics become a major mold farm in months because of this effect, and a couple of roofs which started sagging due to rotted sheathing within 2 years of reroofing with tightly adhered radiant barrier. Some radiant barriers are vapor-permeable to reduce the moisture issue, many are not, but few actually are effective in letting moisture freely escape.

Having seen these products in use, and having analyzed and specified building products for use from the Middle East to the Arctic for decades, and having a Masters in Arctic Engineering (a degree predominately in energy conservation and heat flow), my personal opinion is that these radiant barriers will be banned by code within 10-15 years for unheated (so-called "cold" roofs) roofs, because they just do not use the principles of thermodynamics correctly. For more info on this issue Google the following search phrase  - moisture trapping by radiant attic barriers       and read the government (not the manufacturer) literature on the issue.

5) Unfortunately, the right way to handle this issue is to put the radiant surface on the OUTSIDE of the house - by using reflective materials on the roofing material. This is already done with flat roofs, house trailers, and industrial structures by spraying with alumiunum paint, and a few brands offer reflective aggregate shingles that are slightly more reflective and radiant than normal shingles. People obviously do not like this reflective surface from an aesthetic standpoint, though with solar cells coming into more general use this may soon be more widely adopted. The idea should be to keep the solar energy from penetrating into the building envelope at all, not try to re-reflect it away after it has penetrated throguh the roof system.

The sprayed-in foam has a couple of issues you need to be aware of:

6) it needs to be the low-pressure expanding type mixed for use around window frames, as fully expanding foam can bow joists or trusses and pop drywall ceilings free as it expands, and non-expanding foam actually shrinks as it cures, leaving gaps for air and heat flow alongside the ceiling joists.

7) being closed-cell it is essentially impervious to moisture, so the vapor barrier on the house side has to be EXCELLENT (incuding sealingof all penetrations), or it will trap household moisture escaping into the attic and promote mold and rot in the ceiling drywall and joists.

8) it tends to bleed chemical fumes into the house for a long period of time (can be noticeable for years), which may be objectionable to some people from an odor or environmental standpoint, and especially should be considered if any residents have severe allergy issues or respiratory problems.

9) I emphatically recommend AGAINST use of sprayed-in foam between ceiling joists or truss members in any area that can have cold attic air that could cause moisture condensation in the insulation, though this is probably not a significant problem where you live, assuming your Dallas is the city in Texas. For essentially year-around air-conditioned homes in hot climates, the problem can actually be condensation of attic air moisture on and in the colder ceiling surface insulation and on cold attic runs of air conditioned air, so attic ventilation becomes a critical issue to remove the moisture before it condenses.

In summary, having seen an awful lot of attic moisture and thermal problems, my personal recommendation would be to ensure excellent sealing of the house from the attic, use normal UNFACED fiberglass insulation, and instead of a radiant barrier ensure adequate full-attic ventilation. If you decide to got with a radiant barrier, then I would recommend a perforated one, sloping up towards the sides a foot or two and stopping a foot or so clear at the sides so moist air under it can escape to the roof joist spaces and be vented from the attic. I have seen this done several times with a fine nylon net strung above the insulation in the attic, supporting the barrier, resulting in something very similar to the double-roof system used in bedouin tents, where airflow between the two layers keep the hot air away from the living space.

Steve made a good point.  Also, while it isn't required to remove the old insulation you can check the ductwork, wiring, etc. with the old stuff removed,  You can also spray foam around all openings and holes in wall top plates to better seal your home as Steve was pointing out.  My concern is the potential for mold spores you mentioned in your question.  If you suspect there are any get a good company in to remove the old and clean the attic.  Another concern is asbestos.  Your home is old enough you could have it in there and that's worse than mold if released into the air.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services

A moisture barrier has to be on the warm side ie towards the heated side.  Most people would not install a moisture barrier in your situation.  (They also sell a paint that you can use on your interior ceiling? as a moisture barrier).  Rather most homeowners would hire an insulation contractor to blow a cap over the existing insulation bringing it up to your areas reccomended levels,,Your power company can tell you the level, I would guess R 40.  What you use is up to your wallet, the best is a spray foam that can be applied to the ceiling or over the whole shebang.  Being a bit of a miser I would trot on down to my local big box store and buy a truckload of cellulose and get a free blower for I and a friend to self insulte.  Big box= Menards, Lowes etc.  Cellulose= ground up paper treated with boron for insect control and fireproofing.  It has a high R value and will stop moving air loss from the home. Before you cap current mostly emply attic is ideal time to take sealant to any openings in the attic floor,  like pocket doors, canister lights electircal wires and close off the air leaks from inside.  If foaming skip this.  Hot air rises so you save yourself a ton air sealing the home.

An attic radiant barrier is also a possiblity see my blog for nifty results on it.

Jim Casper Old Energy Conservation Guru

ps moving existing insulation use a plastic rake


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Insulation reviews in Beaver


What started out as a really good experience turned into a nightmare. My first contact with them was when they called about doing an energy audit--they were working with Consumers Energy. Their contact person was knowledgeable and friendly, did a good first walk-through at my house, and then brought in a home performance assessment.company that put together a very complete energy audit report. Based on all of this, I hired them to do much-needed insulation work. At this time I was also having my roof shingles replaced, and
Beaver Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
contacted the roofers to make sure they were putting in comprehensive venting, and then examined the roofers' work to make sure the venting was correct..
A real plus was that as
Beaver Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
was getting ready to install the kneewall insulation they discovered a lot of old knob-and-tube wiring that needed to be replaced, and since they hadn't caught it when they did the cost estimate, they brought in some top-notch electricians and picked up the considerably large cost for the work. So up until now my experience with
Beaver Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
was really excellent.
The guy who installed the ventilation did an OK job--he had to reschedule the work a few times but it eventually got done, though he left a small mess of empty boxes and other trash around the house. He also cut a hole in my bedroom closet wall in the wrong place to put in the insulation. He stuck the plaster board back in place but never repaired the cuts.
The roofing guys had put some very ugly vents in a very visible part of my roof, so I asked
Beaver Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
to replace them. This is where things fell apart. I made a down payment--and then the company virtually disappeared. They finally, after several months of emails and phone calls and trips to their office, took out the old vents, but the replacement vents were never installed. So I now have a non-vented kneewall. Also, they never did a second energy audit, which was part of what I paid for the insulation project. I also found out later they'd never contacted the City inspector to do a required review of the new wiring before the insulation was put in.
Over several months I talked with various people at
Beaver Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
and emailed numerous times. I drove to their office and never was able to talk with anyone but their receptionist. I either heard nothing back from my emails and phone calls or got apologies for not getting the work done and promises they would finish it immediately. And then nothing would happen. I ended up taking them to small claims court, and they didn't bother showing up for the mediation session. The court ruled that they owe me a fair amount of money--we'll see if I ever get it.
Short summary is that I will never hire them again for anything, and would strongly suggest that other potential customers be very, very cautions in deciding whether to use them..
- Jeanne D.

On the day for the insulation, 2 men showed up on time at our home.
They looked everything over and explained thoroughly what the process would be. They immediately went to work, explaining what they were doing as they moved along. We got updates during the day. We were so impressed with the professionalism and their ability to stay on task over a long work day.
We had read previous reviews on Angie's list and we could not agree more about the company, their products, work ethic and willingness to answer any questions we had.
So impressed!!!!
- SUE D.

Beaver Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
on or about 9/2/2015 for request to perform spray foam insulation in lower level of home. Left a voicemail. Later received a call from an employee who gave me a price and said he would call back the next day with re scheduling. No call back from company. I called back the following Monday (which went to voicemail) and requested that they call me back re requested work. Its been 4 weeks and still no call back to me.
- John C.

This company did a great job of insulating our attic and the upstairs of our 1924 house is so much more comfortable now. They worked with us all the way and made accommodations for the electrical work that had to be done before they could insulate. They were very prompt in getting back to answer any questions we had , helped us with our energy rebate and were overall great to work with. I would highly recommend them.
- John S.

We had Mr
Beaver Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
Beaver Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
insulate our attic and over our garage. Everything went well and they did a fine job, and were very professional. Our bathroom fans vent pipes were full of bird nest and they replaced them with new pipe. They arrived on time and the job took about five hours from start to clean up. I would recommend them highly as they are very nice and do quality work at a fair price.
- James W.

Done over 2 days. Each team of guys per day were great. Professional, timely, hard-working, efficient, and also kind (a big plus for me), They explained everything....(even the how-does-it-work questions I asked from pure curiosity). The administrative team/office -- also great and responsive.
I'd highly recommend them!
- Stephanie M.

The folks at
Beaver Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
did a great job for me and my mom. I contacted
Beaver Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
, and explained to him that I own the house my mom lives in, that I live out of town, and that I need to pay for the service. While this doesn't sound like a complicated thing, so many companies have a hard time with it.
Beaver Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
was great. He said "no problem." We discussed the issues we were having, he weighed the pros and cons of the different options, then guided me to the best deal for the option we selected.
Beaver Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
followed up immediately with my mom by arranging a time that was convenient for her, showed up on time, and completed the job with a very pleasant attitude and in a professional manner. After completing the job,
Beaver Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
followed up with me to let me know how it went, as well as what they learned and what they did. Over all, I give
Beaver Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
two thumbs up!
- Mary F.

They did a good job. They prepped the space by covering walls and floor with plastic sheeting, then came back the next day to spray the foam, and the following day they returned to cut off excess foam and clean up. Sotiris was friendly and easy to work with and always showed up when he said he would.
We had a small glitch when we discovered our main circuit breaker was too small (60 amps) to run his equipment. We were able to get an electrician to come out the same day to upgrade the breaker to 100 amps, and Sotiris came back the next day to spray the foam. Each visit took about a half day: half day to prep, half day to set up and spray, half day to clean up. Finished job looks good and their cleanup was thorough.
I don't know how their pricing compares to others because we didn't get any other quotes, so I gave a rating of "N/A" to price only because I have no basis for knowing how his price compares to others. But I would recommend based on quality of the work.
- Suzanne S.

Insulation Contractors in Beaver, PA

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

1st Choice Building Co

PO Box 1112


1523 Ridge Rd

A Preferred Restoration

150 Lake Dr

Absolute Win

2008 Lowrie St.


425 Jefferson Ave

Affordable Insulating

1015 Madison Ave

Air Duct Maintenance Inc

5892 Heckert Rd

American Building Products

17 Frontier Dr.



American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd

American Precision Contracting LLC

20 Transit Dr

American Window Industries Inc

106 Rockwood Ave

ANG Development

333 blvd of the allies

ARS Pittsburgh 9001

1632 Rte 8

Benderbuilt Construction

540 Highview Rd

Betterliving Patio Rooms of Pittsburgh

5499 William Flynn Hwy

Beverly Services

3044 Industrial Blvd
Bethel Park

Bradley's Roofing

1315 4th Ave
New Brighton

BSY Painting and Remodeling

1718 jancey st

Built Right By Rahner

5927 maple grove road



BZ Construction LLC

218 Ray Weyandt Rd



Casey Insulation Inc

2032 Karen Dr




East Butler


307 Joseph St

Dinello Rental Accomodations

2033 Ridge Rd

Easy Does It Remodeling And Handyman Service

107 Green Gabels Mnr.

Efficient Insulation Inc.

239 Country Club Dr
Ellwood City

Energy Eagles

103 Pheasant Rise Court

Exceptional Exteriors and Renovations Inc

2319 1/2 Patterson Ave

Ferri General Contractors

3932 liberty ave

G & S Insulation Inc

2617 State Route 119 PO Box 95

Garner Construction Services LLC

1058 Dry Dam Rd

General Insulation Company

4801 Grand Ave

Geyer Construction & Contracting

121 clinton ave

Glasgow Construction

114 Milheim Dr


440 Pine Creek Rd


862 Monteiro Street

Haskins Home Improvements

1246 Lower Mateer Rd



Home Pro Automation

126 E First Ave

HomeTown Construction

2000 Noble St

Honeydo Construction

221 6th Avenue
New Kensington

Infinity Home Renovations Inc.

965 warrendale bayne rd

Insulwise Energy & Comfort Solutions

244 Jamaica Ave.

Integrity Construction

1550 E Pleasant Valley Blvd

Irwin Builders Supply

10249 Garnet Ln

J.C. Allen Contracting

180 Harbor Village Drive

JG Drywall & Insulation Co Inc.

500 Logan Street

jmn construction


Kaiser Construction

1133 Lantz Rd

Karl Poruben Jr. Handyman Service

P.O.Box 2124
Cranberry Twp.

Kirkham Bros LLC

1478 Grandview Way

LaBelle Homes Inc.

112 Sunrise Lane



Legerski Contracting

2909 Garbett Street

Lloyd Anthony Construction Inc.

3125 Willett Rd

Locy Construction Services

668 Ten Mile Rd


400 Davis Blvd

Masterful Surroundings LLC

15 McMichael Rd

MB Remodeling, LLC.

2704 Ventana Drive



McNemar Handyman Services

70 Forest Grove rd

MDA Contracting Inc

109 Crest Dr

Meredith Home Improvement

2025 Borland Rd



Monarch Group LLC

38316 Airport Pkwy

P-R-O Remodeling

327 Sefler St.
Mckees Rocks

Paragon Concrete Raising

221 Sygan Rd



Pogo Construction

104 Pinoak Lane

Quality Windows

3802 Logan Way

Rau Farms and Fabrication

1416 3rd Street
New Brighton

Regenerative Restoration

28 Elizabeth St

Reinshagen Construction

18 River Road

Romea Roofing

825 Sharps Hill Rd

RonnieJohnston Contracting

264 Main st PO box 15

Scalercio Contracting

361 Moon Clinton Rd.
Moon Twp.

Schiff Maintenance & Contracting

909 Santiago rd


1309 island Avenue

skolnekovich remodeling

385 jefferson ave

SL Contractors

1414 Fourth Ave
New Kensington

Soundrite-Acoustics, Inc.

209 S. Stephanie Street

Spraguerelli Construction

10 Union Avenue

Superior Air Duct Cleaning

1029 4th Ave
New Brighton

T.W. Services

1412 Brinton Rd.

TCA Construction LLC

1340 Rte 30


446 Edgetree


201 Bursca Dr

The GutterShutter Co

11820 Kemper Springs Dr Ste A

The Roof & Driveway Medics,LLC

289 Palma St.
N Versailles

Thermo Twin Windows

1155 Allegheny Ave

Traeger Plastering

234 Gregg St

Tri State Development Inc

3706 5th Ave
North Versailles

Trim Tech construction

1557 Edgebrook Avenue

USA Insulation of Pittsburgh

3445 Harts Run Rd

Vincik Construction

1320 7th Avenue
Beaver Falls

W M Prescott Roofing & Remodeling

20 W Noblestown Rd

W.F.Uhring Construction

201 Elm Rd.


12637 S 265 W Suite 100



Windows R Us North

2599 Evans City Rd

Woleslagle Custom Contracting

205 4th Street

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