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A
"After several years of brutal winters and the wife complaining of a cold drafty house I decided to have a home energy audit done. I had a friend refer me to
" from
and after reading good reviews on Angie's list I decided to give him a call.
was prompt at returning my call and setting up an appointment for an energy audit. After I explained the drafty issues we were having he set up the blower door test along with infrared camera and we went room by room identifying the sources of the drafts in each room. He was extremely helpful explaining that a lot of the draft issues I could fix myself with a quick run to the home improvement store. With the infrared camera we could see all the cold air flow in the attic space and along a majority of the rim joists.
was very honest with me explaining what he could help with and what he couldn't due to lack of access to the area. He spent an extra hour talking furnaces and windows with me as we are looking to upgrade both. He explained all the energy saving rebates available as well as financing that is available through the home energy improvement programs. I plan on using
for insulating my house and having him be my general contractor for my window and HVAC upgrades which I'm currently in the process of getting quotes based on the contractors he recommended.

-Ryan T.

A
"Great personalized, custom service from the owner. They showed up on time and he gave us great energy saving tips and the install of 10 windows weatherseal was" quickly and expertly done in no time. Great work. Great customer service. We will call you again for attic insulation makeover, guys!

-Michael L.

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Local Articles in Beaver

The Angie's List Guide to Winter Maintenance

It's the time of year when the winter weather can take a toll. Follow this winter maintenance checklist to protect your home, your car and your health.

Avoid ice dams with proper attic insulation

Do you have icicles forming on your eaves and gutters and ice collecting on your roof? An ice dam can cause serious problems without proper insulation.

Even in cold-weather climates, homes often lack insulation between the finished, occupied portion of the home and the ground. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Paul B. of Bluffton, South Carolina)
Insulation, Energy Efficiency Auditing

Exterior foundation insulation is an often overlooked home improvement. It can help stop drafts, lower energy bills and keep your house warmer during winter.

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Contractors say homeowners with this trait are the most satisfied with home improvement projects.

With insulation technology always advancing, you’ve got choices to make when it comes to the material you pick, says Lindus. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Lynn M. of Columbus, Georgia)
Insulation

Thinking of installing your own insulation? One highly rated provider shares six things that every homeowner should be aware of before attempting to DIY.

Before winter arrives, ensure your attic is sealed properly and has both adequate insulation and ventilation. (Photo courtesy of member Kitty Jones of Columbus, Ohio)
Insulation, Heating & A/C, Roofing

A comfortable, energy efficient home starts at the top. Those hot spots and cold rooms may relate to problems in your attic. Beyond adding insulation, what's a homeowner to do?

Angie's Answers

?

Google and read about it. Some people swear by it, though their comments sound suspiciously like they were all written by the same person. Some call it a rip off - expecially people paying $6000-8000 for what would normally be a $1,000 range job.

I would not call it an outright fraud as they are providing a product that has some potential merit in the right application, but from a technical standpoint it sounds suspicious. They claim a 1/4 mat with doiuble sided foil facing is R-16 insulation. This at least is deceptive - they appear to be saying its radiant heat reflective properties give the equivalent of R-16 insulation, because there is NO WAY 1/4" foam is going to yield R-16 in an ASTM test for insulation, which is a thermal conductivity test. Would be lucky to get R-2 or so as an insulator, so this is basically a radiant barrier. Competing products from national brandname manufacturers list R value of 3.8-4.2 for one inch mats, so the equivalent for this 1/4" mat would be expected to be in the R1 range.

Properly installed, with ventilation on BOTH sides, it can be slightly effective in reducing radiant heat loss from the house, and more effective in reflecting heat in the attic from coming down into the house. However, from a thermodynamic and vapor control standpoint, they are trouble unless their integration into the house envelope is designed VERY carefully. Short explanation:

1) for keeping heat in the house, if they are installed above the attic floor insulation they can slightly limit air loss through the ceiling, and reflect radiant heat back down, resulting in warmer insulation, hence a warmer ceiling - but not as marked an improvement as added insulation would give.

2) for keeping attic heat from getting into the ceiling, they do reflect back a good portion of the radiant heat coming from the roof sheathing. This reduces the attic floor insulation surface temperature, so can reduce air conditioning cost. it does increase teh temperature in the attic, which can be very bad for support timbers and the roof sheathing.

3) the worst thing about how this type of foil radiant barrier is used is that, unless it has free air space on both sides, it acts as a vapor barrier. In the typicall application as a blanket over attic floor insulation, it traps any moisture coming up from the house, and can cause mildew and rot, especially in climates where the outdoor temperature gets quite cold.

4) the attic fans are generally a last resort measure - the normal house does much better, at no energy cost, using ridge vents with adequate eave openings to provide ventilation and cooling in the attic.

5) their effectiveness in winter heat diminshes rapidly with time - tests of attic radiant barriers show they lose about half their effectvieness within 5 years, because even a light dust coating greatly reduces their ability to reflect radiant heat, and greatly increases the absorption of heat from the hot air above them.

6) pay attention to cost - from what I see, their installed cost is many times the cost of normal insualtion or radiant barrier placement.

I would say, in summary, buyer beware, and I would be inherently leery of a product being sold the same way timeshares and "secret" moneymaking schemes are.

?

Obviously this is not a timely response to the initial question. However, for those who may be reading these answers at a later time, a couple of added thoughts:

1) the radiant barrier being discussed is basically heavy-duty metal foil or metallized surface on a plastic sheet, intended to reflect RADIATED heat (infrared radiation - think heat light, or heat you can feel at a distance radiated from a fireplace), the same way a mirror reflects light. Radiated heat is how a standard oven broils and how steam and hot water baseboard heat predominately work.

2) you generally should do NOT place a radiant barrier over the insulation that lies between and over the joists in a normal attic, especially in a region where the attic temperature can frequently reach condensation temperature (below about 45-50 degrees) - it may reflect back some of the house heat that is coming up from the house, but by destroying most of the temperature gradient from the house to the attic air destroys much of the driving force that moves moisture to the attic air and subsequent venting. Between that greater heat and the fact the barrier is also a moisture barrier, that makes a perfect condition for mold and rot in your insulation and attic wood, and has become quite an issue in energy upgraded homes because of retrofits that cut off airflow outside the insulation, but do not cut off the moisture source leaking thorough from the house. The proper and ONLY place for a vapor barrier in a normal attic insulation system is on the pressurized and normal warm, humid side of the insulation zone - directly above the ceiling drywall in the top floor, fastened to the UNDERSIDE of the ceiling joists or trusses, NOT anywhere above that. Perforated barriers are supposed to reduce this tendency, but the perforation area percentage is so small that typically they still act as a vapor varrier, just not a totally effective one.

3) radiant barriers reflect radiated heat ewith up to 99% efficiency but have basically zero resistance to CONDUCTION (body to body heat transfer at points of contact - think heat transfer from your warm hand to a frozen cold drink can, or hot pavement heat transfer to the bottom of your feet) - so there needs to be an air gap between the radiant barrier and the hot item passing the heat to it, otherwise the heat will just pass through it by conduction. Therefore, applying it directly to the sheathing (above or below) or manufacturing it directly on the surface of the sheathing defeats its purpose, even though this is commonly done.

4) there is a lot of discussion, particularly in the professional design community, about attic radiant heat barrier effectiveness and problems. Because they are being installed on the bottom of the sheathing or underside of roof joists, they act as a heat trap for the energy being conducted through the roof which would normally radiate into the attic air or be transferred by CONVECTION (fluid flow heat transfer) to the attic air, and be vented through roof vents, ridge vents, gable vents, etc. By trapping that heat, they are causing the underside of the shingles and particularly the felt and sheathing to get a lot hotter than they otherside would, essentially changing it from a system where the shingle top surface might reach 120-180 F and the inside surface of the sheathing about 80-140F in the summer, to making the entire roof system equal to the outside surface temperature. This causes more rapid shingle deterioration and cracking, and makes the felt or plastic moisture barrier under the shingles brittle and subject to failure.

Also, any moisture above the radiant barrier (from roof leaks or humid air coming into the area) is prevented from evaporating by the attic airflow which would normally remove it, so it starts acting like a steamer. I have seen both wood and metal lofts and attics become a major mold farm in months because of this effect, and a couple of roofs which started sagging due to rotted sheathing within 2 years of reroofing with tightly adhered radiant barrier. Some radiant barriers are vapor-permeable to reduce the moisture issue, many are not, but few actually are effective in letting moisture freely escape.

Having seen these products in use, and having analyzed and specified building products for use from the Middle East to the Arctic for decades, and having a Masters in Arctic Engineering (a degree predominately in energy conservation and heat flow), my personal opinion is that these radiant barriers will be banned by code within 10-15 years for unheated (so-called "cold" roofs) roofs, because they just do not use the principles of thermodynamics correctly. For more info on this issue Google the following search phrase  - moisture trapping by radiant attic barriers       and read the government (not the manufacturer) literature on the issue.

5) Unfortunately, the right way to handle this issue is to put the radiant surface on the OUTSIDE of the house - by using reflective materials on the roofing material. This is already done with flat roofs, house trailers, and industrial structures by spraying with alumiunum paint, and a few brands offer reflective aggregate shingles that are slightly more reflective and radiant than normal shingles. People obviously do not like this reflective surface from an aesthetic standpoint, though with solar cells coming into more general use this may soon be more widely adopted. The idea should be to keep the solar energy from penetrating into the building envelope at all, not try to re-reflect it away after it has penetrated throguh the roof system.

The sprayed-in foam has a couple of issues you need to be aware of:

6) it needs to be the low-pressure expanding type mixed for use around window frames, as fully expanding foam can bow joists or trusses and pop drywall ceilings free as it expands, and non-expanding foam actually shrinks as it cures, leaving gaps for air and heat flow alongside the ceiling joists.

7) being closed-cell it is essentially impervious to moisture, so the vapor barrier on the house side has to be EXCELLENT (incuding sealingof all penetrations), or it will trap household moisture escaping into the attic and promote mold and rot in the ceiling drywall and joists.

8) it tends to bleed chemical fumes into the house for a long period of time (can be noticeable for years), which may be objectionable to some people from an odor or environmental standpoint, and especially should be considered if any residents have severe allergy issues or respiratory problems.

9) I emphatically recommend AGAINST use of sprayed-in foam between ceiling joists or truss members in any area that can have cold attic air that could cause moisture condensation in the insulation, though this is probably not a significant problem where you live, assuming your Dallas is the city in Texas. For essentially year-around air-conditioned homes in hot climates, the problem can actually be condensation of attic air moisture on and in the colder ceiling surface insulation and on cold attic runs of air conditioned air, so attic ventilation becomes a critical issue to remove the moisture before it condenses.

In summary, having seen an awful lot of attic moisture and thermal problems, my personal recommendation would be to ensure excellent sealing of the house from the attic, use normal UNFACED fiberglass insulation, and instead of a radiant barrier ensure adequate full-attic ventilation. If you decide to got with a radiant barrier, then I would recommend a perforated one, sloping up towards the sides a foot or two and stopping a foot or so clear at the sides so moist air under it can escape to the roof joist spaces and be vented from the attic. I have seen this done several times with a fine nylon net strung above the insulation in the attic, supporting the barrier, resulting in something very similar to the double-roof system used in bedouin tents, where airflow between the two layers keep the hot air away from the living space.

?

A couple of comments about what Jim said:

1) Regarding type of insulation, in cold winter environments: Cellulose and fiberglass are actually about comparable in R value when installed - blown in cellulose runs from 3.2-3.8 R value, fiberglass batt 2.9-4.3 R value depending on manufacturer and whether hig-density or low density, high-efficiency or standard, according to official Department of Energy publications. Measured values in attic test cases, in areas with a true winter, after 10 years showed a decrease from 3.4 (in the test case) down to 2.1 for cellulose, and 3.5 to 3.3 for fiberglass batt, due to packing or matting. In an attic environment, there WILL be condensation or frost on the insulation at some point during the year (assuming an area with true winters) and in highly insulated houses commonly for a substantial time period each winter. Fiberglass packs down slightly from that weight but mostly rebounds, cellulose packs down and mats and does not substantially recover, so over the years cellulose loses 1/3 to close to 1/2 its insulation value, fiberglass about 10%.

2) a note on radiation barriers attached to the bottom of the rafters - there are a lot of installers and homeowners making two major mistakes with this product that can cause major trouble: First, be sure to terminate it short of the eave openings. I have seen cases where it was carried all the way out to the fascia board, thereby blocking all airflow on the underside of the roof. Even carrying it all the way to the eaves along the bottom of the rafters will block off ventilation to the main attic area. You have to leave the air space between the rafters open to full airflow from the soffit/eave area ot the ridge vent. Second, do NOT run it continuous from eave to eave across the full width of the attic - leave a gap about a foot wide under the ridge vents so warm and moist air in the attic can vent through the ridge vent. Closing the ridge vent area off with the radiant barrier effectively puts a vapor barrier around the main attic area, causing retention of the moisture which WILL accumulate there, promoting mold.

?
Steve made a good point.  Also, while it isn't required to remove the old insulation you can check the ductwork, wiring, etc. with the old stuff removed,  You can also spray foam around all openings and holes in wall top plates to better seal your home as Steve was pointing out.  My concern is the potential for mold spores you mentioned in your question.  If you suspect there are any get a good company in to remove the old and clean the attic.  Another concern is asbestos.  Your home is old enough you could have it in there and that's worse than mold if released into the air.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
?

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Insulation reviews in Beaver

A

Rating
The owner of the company visited to estimate the job on 2/25/2015. After going to the places where cold air was getting into the house (he showed me as we went ), he reviewed what is necessary in our area of Ohio item by item. The three areas in our home which required insulation were the attic, the ceiling on the first floor, and the crawlspace (no basement). He showed me the materials needed and why they were effective. We agreed on a price for the job, and he sent a crew the next day to do the work, since things are a bit slower in this cold snap. Three men showed up. The leader went over the work order as I showed him where to access the spaces. The work order was a copy of the agreement I signed the day before, and they went to work. They blew cellulose into the attic after prepping leaks. They blew cellulose into the space over the first floor after prepping the leaks. In the crawlspace, no blow in was used. A combination of injected foam and hand cut Insulation was inserted in the nooks and crannies. It took, by my estimate, about five hours of solid work to complete the job. I inspected the work, paid the piper, and we were done. We have already noticed benefits, as there are much shorter periods when the heat pump is on, especially during the day .


- James T.
A

Rating
I had 4 estimates and this was the least expensive by a bit. I do not always go with the lowest price. It is just as important to me that the person I am dealing with seems knowledgeable, does not do a hard sell and does not condescend to female me.
Updating from a 67 year old house at maybe R10 to R38. Took at most an hour and a half for my small house, no mess. The area covered was approx 750 sq ft. Part of the attic is floored so they added a
Beaver Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
around the edges to insure the insulation did not get into the storage area. Baffled between the
Beaver Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
. He also vented my bathroom fan through the roof which had been on my TTD list for two years and did not charge extra.
Beaver Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
was personable, professional and explained in detail what they would be doing.
I am having my kitchen redone and will hire them to provide insulation behind the new cabinets.
I am very, very pleased with this company.

- Patty M.
A

Rating
Workers were great, kept me appraised of everything they were going to do. Took pictures of all areas that I could no see in person and plan to send me copies to keep.
- Patrick T.
A

Rating
Wow!
Wow!
Wow!
Amazing follow-up, competence and ultra friendly. Major kudos to the office manager (
Beaver Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
) who just stunned me with her professional approach.
Very rare for a business such as this to excel in customer service.
- Jonathon N.
A

Rating
They were on time and ready to get to work.
Beaver Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
and his crew were friendly, courteous and anxious to answer any and all questions. They did an excellent job, and cleaned up after themselves as well as can be expected this time of year. The house feels more comfortable already.
Beaver Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
returned yesterday to do the followup blower door test. While the blower was running, he went around the house with his thermal camera and caulked or insulated any air leaks he found around doors, windows, pipes, etc. He said the test showed air infiltration had been reduced by an incredible 46%. Thanks to all.
- Lawrence T.
A

Rating
The service went fine. One technician came out for the job. The sealer they had did not work with the sealer that was already on the door. They ended up caulking around some windows to help with the draft. He was very helpful and informative. I had no problem scheduling the deal and they showed up as scheduling.
- Stephanie F.
N

Rating
My wife and I just had our 2nd child and I have been putting off insulating the tight crawl space in my 80 year old house. Not wanting our new baby to be cold and feel the drafty floors in our house this winter, I decided to call on Sprayfoam companies. After the first 3 companies seemed over priced and not very detailed on how they would perform the work, I was referred to
Beaver Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
Sprayfoam from a friend of mine....so I gave them a call and connected with
Beaver Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
, the owner.
Beaver Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
and his team listened to what I was trying to accomplish and he elaborated step by step on how he and his team would help our family stay warm this winter by insulating my crawlspace.
Beaver Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
was very professional, understanding and willing to work within my schedule. He and his team were very busy as well. but he understood my concerns with having a 2 month old in an old and drafty house without insulation in my crawlspace. So,
Beaver Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
and his team were willing to work on a Sunday to squeeze me into his tight schedule.
The total process took about 3 hours and I could not be happier with how well the spray foam is keeping my floors warm and drafts out of my house. My wife, 2 month old.....well now 4 month old and I could not me happier with
Beaver Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
Sparyfoam Insulation.
- Brad D.
A

Rating
initially, we were worried because first crew that came out didn't seem confident that the job could be done. We spoke with manager / owner? and he sent another crew out as soon as possible and they explained that the first crew was concerned about the high pitch of our attic. They brought the right equipment and did a great job. I had our energy company come out for an audit and he said our attic was one of the best he'd seen as far as energy conservation! So, overall, job well-done.
- heidi K.

All Insulation Contractors in Beaver, PA

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

Absolute Win

2008 Lowrie St.
Pittsburgh

AFFORDABLE HOME IMPROVEMENTS

425 Jefferson Ave
Beaver

Air Duct Maintenance Inc

5892 Heckert Rd
Bakerstown

American Building Products

17 Frontier Dr.
Gibsonia

AMERICAN CONTRACTING COMPANY INC

900 FREDERICKA DR
Pittsburgh

American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd

American Precision Contracting LLC

20 Transit Dr
Mckeesport

American Window Industries Inc

106 Rockwood Ave
Pittsburgh

ARS Pittsburgh - 9001

1632 Rte 8
Glenshaw

B&M Home Improvements

8708 casa grande dr
Pittsburgh

Benderbuilt Construction

540 Highview Rd
Pittsburgh

Betterliving Patio Rooms

5499 Rte 8
Gibsonia

Beverly Services

3044 Industrial Blvd
Bethel Park

Bradley's Roofing

1315 4th Ave
New Brighton

Brookside Lumber Co

500 Logan Rd
Bethel Park

Built Right By Rahner

5927 maple grove road
Bulger

BUTLER REMODELING & ROOFING, INC.

124 TIMBER LANE
Zelienople

CanDoKen&Son

Pittsburgh

CARDILLO PLASTERING COMPANY

159 MC VEY STREET
Sturgeon

Casey Insulation Inc

2032 Karen Dr
Pittsburgh

COLAIZZI CONSTRUCTION

4894 Young Dr
Pittsburgh

Commonwealth Heating & Remodeling

2526 Monroeville Blvd
Monroeville

CONSTRUCTION JUNCTION

214 N LEXINGTON ST
Pittsburgh

DAN THE HANDYMAN

919 RANDOLPH AVE.
East Butler

DENNIS REMODELING

307 Joseph St
Pittsburgh

Dinello Rental Accomodations

2033 Ridge Rd
Monaca

Efficient Insulation Inc.

239 Country Club Dr
Ellwood City

Energy Eagles

103 Pheasant Rise Court
Bridgeville

Exceptional Exteriors and Renovations Inc

2319 1/2 Patterson Ave
Pittsburgh

Exterior Touch Inc.

12610 Waverly RD.

Ferri General Contractors

3932 liberty ave
Pittsburgh

G & S Insulation Inc

2617 State Route 119 PO Box 95
Crabtree

Garner Construction Services LLC

1058 Dry Dam Rd
Jeannette

General Insulation Company

4801 Grand Ave
Pittsburgh

Geyer Construction & Contracting

121 clinton ave
Butler

Glasgow Construction

114 Milheim Dr
Butler

GM CONTRACTING

440 Pine Creek Rd
Wexford

HAMLERS MODERN MAINTENANCE

862 Monteiro Street

HOME IMPROVEMENT CENTER

505 NEGLEY AVE.
Butler

Home Pro Automation

126 E First Ave
Latrobe

HomeTown Construction

2000 Noble St
Pittsburgh

Infinity Home Renovations Inc.

965 warrendale bayne rd
Wexford

Insulwise Energy & Comfort Solutions

244 Jamaica Ave.
Pittsburgh

Irwin Builders Supply

10249 Garnet Ln
Irwin

J.C. Allen Contracting

180 Harbor Village Drive
Edinburg

JD Gales Contracting, Inc

1815 Pine Hollow Rd
Mc Kees Rocks

JG Drywall & Insulation Co Inc.

500 Logan Street
Carnegie

Kaiser Construction

1133 Lantz Rd
Avonmore

Karl Poruben Jr. Handyman Service

P.O.Box 2124
Cranberry Twp.

Kirkham Bros LLC

1478 Grandview Way
Sewickley

LEGACY REMODELING INC

3090 W LIBERTY AVE
Pittsburgh

Legerski Contracting

2909 Garbett Street
Mckeesport

Lloyd Anthony Construction Inc.

3125 Willett Rd
Pittsburgh

Locy Construction Services

668 Ten Mile Rd
Amity

Loebrich Contracting Inc

1830 Frankstown Road
Johnstown

Lowe's

400 Davis Blvd
Pittsburgh

Masterful Surroundings LLC

15 McMichael Rd
Carnegie

MCLANE CONTRACTING INC

5644 BROWNSVILLE RD
Pittsburgh

McNemar Handyman Services

70 Forest Grove rd

MDA Contracting Inc

109 Crest Dr
Monaca

Meredith Home Improvement

2025 Borland Rd
Pittsburgh

Merola Co

1927 Universal Rd
Pittsburgh

Merola Plastering

6530 Ten Point Circle
Trafford

MILO SERVICES MS

3799 LEGION DRIVE
Gibsonia

MINCIN INSULATION SERVICE INC

289 BALDWIN RD
Pittsburgh

Option Insulating Co Inc

4850 Streets Run Rd
Pittsburgh

PEARCE REMODELING

407 GRAND AVE
Aliquippa

Pittsburgh Foam Insulation

1396 Frey Rd
Pittsburgh

Pogo Construction

104 Pinoak Lane
Imperial

Premiere Kitchen & Bath

106 Rockwood Ave
Pittsburgh

QUALITY WINDOWS

3802 Logan Way

RICK HORN CONSTRUCTION, INC.

933 STANTON AVE
Pittsburgh

Romea Roofing

825 Sharps Hill Rd
Pittsburgh

RonnieJohnston Contracting

264 Main st PO box 15
Hookstown

S.C. Hilpert General Contractor

5706 halchess st
Pittsburgh

Scalercio Contracting

361 Moon Clinton Rd.
Moon Twp.

Shore Insulation

524 Brighton Ave

skolnekovich remodeling

385 jefferson ave
Washington

Spraguerelli Construction

10 Union Avenue
Pittsburgh

Suburban Insulation

193 Crowe Ave
Mars

Superior Air Duct Cleaning

1029 4th Ave
New Brighton

T.W. Services

1412 Brinton Rd.
Pittsburgh

Terminix

201 Bursca Dr
Bridgeville

The GutterShutter Co

11820 Kemper Springs Dr Ste A

The Healey Company Inc

1234 Sarah St
Pittsburgh

Thermo Twin Windows

1155 Allegheny Ave
Oakmont

Three Rivers Urethane

536 Camp Horne Road
Pittsburgh

Tri-State Development inc.

3706 5th Ave
North Versailles

Trim Tech construction

1557 Edgebrook Avenue
Brookline

USA Insulation of Pittsburgh

3445 Harts Run Rd
Glenshaw

Varment Guard Environmental

5220 Westerville Rd

W M Prescott Roofing & Remodeling

20 W Noblestown Rd
Carnegie

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

WEST PENN ENERGY SOLUTIONS LLC

1121 SAVANNAH AVE
Pittsburgh

WESTERN PENNSYLVANIA GEOTHERMAL HEATING & COOLING

725 SAXONBURG BLVD STE 4
Saxonburg

Woleslagle Custom Contracting

205 4th Street
Irwin

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