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A
"He was responsible, respectful and professional. He was able to almost accomplish everything we had hoped that he would be able to do in the day, and will follow" up generously with us for the final small things.

-Miriam B.

A
"The staff was very prompt in returning the calls and scheduled the service within 24-48 hours. Arrived to perform the inspection in time and also arranged a rapid" repair on the spot. The needed re-wiring of sub-panel was completed the same afternoon once the diagnose was done. It is amazing how fast they could get to the spot and resolve issues. Their response after the service was prompt too. Will recommend to others.

-kelly L.

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Local Articles in West Linn

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Angie's Answers

?

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

?
Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.
?

As I understand it, you are looking at putting in a fan where there is no ceiling electric outlet. Since I am not sure, will try to break out piece by piece, undersanding these wouyld all be lumped into one job (possibly excluding wiring new outlet and switch). I hate to be so general, but access is the key here - if access is easy and there is a suitable light switch in the same room, cost can be at the low end of this range. If assess is poor and you don't want holes knocked in your drywall, then get more expensive real fast.

1) cost of fan typically $125-250 unless high end model

2) remove existing regular 4" box, install supports to joists and new box (ceiling fans need specially supported boxes due to the extra weight and swaying motion of the fans) $50-75

3) tap electric from existing circuit at existing box, upgrade existing light switch box to add one or two more switches (Adjustable for fan speed, 2nd for light, if so equipped), run wiring to ceiling fixture $125-250

4) put up fan, connect, test $75-100

So - total About $250-425 with no box there now, plus cost of fixture. A simple install to replace an existing fan, or install where the ceiling box was wired for a fan, would be only about $75-100.

This all assumes the existing nearby electric circuit can handle the addition of the fan - if not, then wiring cost will go up. It also assumes there is access via open attic or joists to install the wiring. Otherwise, installation cost OK but does NOT include repair to holes in drywall or ceiling to pull wiring.

Note also that an existing ceiling light box would probably NOT fill the bill - code in almost all jurisdictions requires 12 ga wire for fan motors, most household circuits are 14 or 16 gauge, so would need new wire pulled from a circuit with adequate capacity.

Get bids ! I worked on one job where the owner in a high-end house decided to put in fans with fancy candeliers underneath after construction was done - cost almost $3000 to do installation because all the wall and ceilings were finished in a high-end finish, so all wire pulling had to be done remotely - including removing siding to put in pull boxes at changes of direction and fasten conduit to studs. PLAN AHEAD !

 

?

The amperage is the rated power it can handle. Modern houses are generally built with 200 amp panels, and a lot of the newer ones are going 300-350 amps as more and more electronic devices and fancy and high-demand kitchen devices and increased lighting are used in homes.

Both are just as safe - the 200 amp one will just have many more breaker slots, allowing way more circuits, and providing more room for expansion in the future, especially for power-hungry things like shop tools. Each uses only as much electricity as is used in the circuits - the panel itself does not consume any electricity, so no long-term impact there. It is just a circuit connection box where the individual circuits are connected, with circuit protectors (breakers) in line before it connects to the main line to your electric usage meter.

Unless you are real tight on money on this job, I would upgrade to 200 amps capacity - the incremental cost is about $100-200 or so over the 100 amp panel. If your incoming power line cannot handle 200 amps, you could install a 100 amp main breaker to keep the power company happy but put in the 200 amp breaker panel, so in the future a main line upgrade could be done with only a main disconnect breaker upgrade of $100 or so, without having to change anything inside the house.

Having the larger panel, especially if 200 amp capacity all the way from the meter, can be a selling point (or rather, lack of a negative point) to a potential buyer with lots of electronics or who is into shop power tools. It would also facilitate conversion to electric heat / water heating if someone wanted to do that.

?

Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.

?

An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.

 

A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.

 

Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.

Electrician reviews in West Linn

A

Rating
The work was excellent. and his assistant were on time and professional. The responsiveness to our request for the work required was fantastic. Appointment options were provided to get the work done. made sure that the original work would be done promptly, the next day, by stopping at our house in ...More the afternoon on his way home from work. Had the job done withing an hour. Fantastic!!!
- Michael M.
A

Rating
The original electrician assigned could not come at scheduled time due to a family emergency, but the company called to let us know the situation and offered to send another electrician working in our area at a later time in the same day. We were agreeable.
Electrician arrived at scheduled time, but didn't have a dimmer switch, because he ...More wasn't the original assigned electrician and didn't know what parts were needed. He offered to go their electrical supplier (if they were open, which they were - barely) and obtain the necessary dimmer switch.
Switch was replaced without any issues. He also looked at the bathroom exhaust fan, and said that the heater was actually not working, and there wasn't anything more he could do unless / until I purchased a new fan.
My "price" concern is with the charge for troubleshooting, which is in the neighborhood of $300, even though it seemed to require only about 15 minutes! They seem to have set amounts they charge for certain services, which can be a value, or not, to the homeowner. I ended up paying for the $88 value package (which presumably gave me $200+ value in work) plus another $21 for the service. Considering this included the switch, and he was maybe at my house for a total of an hour, that is probably typical...not any great value.
He also spent a fair amount of time describing other services I could purchase, but there was no high pressure or anything.
All in all, they were reliable, trustworthy and they stand behind their work, just need to get a good understanding of the charges to expect for the work you are having them perform.
- VICTORIA V.
A

Rating
Work was of high quality and was completed promptly without any surprises. Crew worked very closely with the cabinet installer planning ahead each day. They were very attentive and cleaned up the work place each day, no mess was left behind. Everything was explained in detail and our questions/concerns were answered patiently as the project progressed. ...More Price seemed fair and very competitive with other estimates I got for this job. Overall, we were very pleased with the final product and would love to use them again for future projects.
- Nicolae B.
A

Rating
sent out 2 workers to check out why we were experiencing an electrical when in our shower. It was diagnosed that we needed a grounding wire attached to our water line.
- Bob B.
A

Rating
was able to track down the root cause of 4 light switches that were
not working. It was an unusual cause linked to a switch that was
working. It took a lot of checking the electrical system. House wired in
a strange way when built. But, he solved the problem! was quick
to respond ...More and fit us in his schedule. This is the second time we have retained for our needs. Will use him again.
- Barbara F.
A

Rating
Great work - clean, professional, and prompt. They gave an estimate on the phone and it was less expensive than anticipated.
- Dan P.
A

Rating
Upon requesting service, Nick was very quick to respond to my questions and walked me through the pricing for the service. His technicians arrived on time, were willing to explain their work, etc. I did have a wall switch that went to an unknown location, and after some investigating the technician admitted that re-wiring the switch to the light would ...More require a smaller/more nimble technician to navigate the very tight attic space. Overall, however, the rest of the work was completed in a timely manner and to the quality promised. I would call them again for sure.

- Tim S.
A

Rating
was extremely professional and did a great job. It wasn't going to be easy but he worked quickly and efficiently to get it done. We would definitely use him again!
- Kelly D.

Electricians in West Linn, OR

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

8TH DAY AUDIO & VIDEO, INC.

PO BOX 116
Corbett

:Portland Electric Contractors LLC

812 SW Washington #620
Portland

A D Handyman Solution Inc

13120 SW 242 Terr

A D Handyman Solution LLC

9900 SE Lawnfield Rd
Clackamas

A Guy I Know Inc

2850 SW Cedar Hills Blvd. #345
Beaverton

A New Image Exteriors

9575 SW 90th Ave
Portland

A Team Renovations LLC

3820 SE Clark Ct
Troutdale

A&E SECURITY & ELECTRONIC SOLUTIONS

835 NE HWY 99W
Mcminnville

A&J ELECTRIC INC

PO BOX 330
Forest Grove

A-BOY PLUMBING & ELECTRICAL SUPPLY

4010 NE BROADWAY ST
Portland

A-Temp Heating & Cooling Inc

PO Box 190
Clackamas

Abacus Energy Solutions LLC

12120 SW Faircrest St
Portland

Abc Electric

135 NE 9th Ave
Portland

AC Electrical Contractor LLC

5 Centerpointe Drive
Lake Oswego

Access Electrical

13625 SW Farmington Road
Beaverton

Adams General Construction

410 NE 3rd St
Mcminnville

ADDCO Electric Fireplaces

6635 N. Baltimore Ave
Portland

ADH Contracting

12433 Northeast Flanders St.
Portland

Affinity Electric

24506 NE 72nd AVE

Affordable Electrical Inc.

1820 NE Elliott Pl
Gresham

Affordable TV Repairs

11880 SE Home Ave
Portland

AHK Hardwood & Tile Floors

8322 SE 134th Dr
Portland

Air Cleaning Technology ACT

3138 Northeast 115th ave.

Alameda Electric

3415 NE 44th Ave
Portland

ALEX FREDDI CONSTRUCTION LLC

9753 SW Appaloosa Place
Beaverton

Alexander Technical Resources

1263 Glenwood Ave SE

ALL COM

23220 SW BOSKY DELL LN
West Linn

All Pro Electric, Inc.

6327 SW Capitol Hwy
Portland

ALL SERVICE MUSICAL ELECTRNCS

617 SE MORRISON ST
Portland

ALL SERVICE PAINTING

PO BOX 90666
Portland

All Value Construction

PO Box 1048
Cornelius

All Wood Restoration

PO Box 66
Sherwood

Altec Electric LLC

PO Box 14010
Portland

American Contracting Inc.

PO Box 19083
Portland

Americhoice Contractors LLC

6614 SE 74th Ave
Portland

Ampere Electric

1518 NE Buffalo St
Portland

Anctil Heating and Cooling

2150 N Lewis Ave
Portland

Anctil Plumbing Inc

16900 SW Merlo Rd
Beaverton

ANKENY HARDWARE

1134 SE STARK ST
Portland

Arctic Hvac Repair & Refrigeration

824 NE Davis St
Portland

Bailey Contracting LLC

333 S State St
Lake Oswego

Baker Auto Repair

504 Shaver St
Molalla

Bandana Electric LLC

P.O. Box 623
Canby

Bartlett Tree Experts - 141211

11814 SE Jennifer St
Clackamas

Best Electrical

13533 SE 123rd Ave
Clackamas

BEST OVERHEAD DOOR LLC

20166 SW 112th Ave
Tualatin

BitterCreek Development & Construction Co.

5277 NW Wickiup Way
Portland

Blake Enterprises

15997 SE Tong Rd
Clackamas

Bluestone & Hockley Maintenance

9320 SW Barbur Blvd.
Portland

BNK Construction

14325 S Leabo Rd
Molalla

Brake Team

8750 SW Old Tualatin Sherwood Rd
Tualatin

Bridged Communications

2635 SE 167th Ave
Portland

BRITEWOOD REMODELING

2060 SW PATTULO WAY
West Linn

BSC General Contractors Inc

3836 NE Skidmore St.
Portland

BUCKAROO ELECTRIC LLC

31601 S WRIGHT RD
Molalla

BUZZ MECHANICAL INC

30830 SW RIVER LANE RD
West Linn

C-TECH SVC

2710 SUMMIT PL
West Linn

CABINETS UNLIMITED INC

11521 SW PACIFIC HWY
Portland

Calzada Electric Inc.

1417 NE Coho Ct
Wood Village

CARRUTHERS LANDSCAPE

8124 SW 56TH
Portland

Cascade Homebuilders

1276 SE Glacier Lane
Gresham

CEDAR MILL HOME THEATER

13405 NW CORNELL RD
Portland

CEDAR RIDGE HOMES

1905 SW 257TH AVE
Troutdale

Champion Electric

4923 NE 145th Ave

CHANDLER ELECTRIC

3521 SW CARSON ST
Portland

Charged Electric

12175 SW Summer Crest Dr
Portland

CHEM-DRY -Riverview

PO Box 20636
Portland

City Home Improvement

8811 NE Sandy Blvd
Portland

COHABIT DESIGN & CONSTRUCT

13122 NE Rose Pkwy
Portland

COLUMBIA CONTRACTORS

8714 SE 9TH AVE
Portland

Columbia County Habitat for Humaniy ReStore

164 Little Street
Saint Helens

Comcast

2201 Lloyd Ctr
Portland

Conduit Electric

19461 SW 89th Ave
Tualatin

Converging Creeks LLC

22745 S Bonney Rd
Colton

Copper Leaf Electric

10117 SE Sunnyside Rd
Clackamas

Cornerstone Portland Electricians

819 SE Morrison
Portland

COSCO FIRE PROTECTION INC

2501 SE Columbia Way Ste 100

Cowger Electric LLC

3418 Knoll Dr
Newberg

Creative Craft

4837 E. Burnside st. suite#12
Portland

Creative Tile and Remodel LLC

18928 SW Heightview Ct
Beaverton

Critter Control

6809 SE Foster Rd
Portland

CUSTOM CONSTRUCTION & REMODELING INC

19385 SE SUMMERTIME DR
Sandy

CYRUS CONSTRUCTION INCORPERATED

443 NE NORTON LN
Mcminnville

D & L ELECTRIC INC

PO BOX 367
West Linn

Dale's Remodeling

5514 Commercial St SE
Salem

DAVID SPRECHTER ELECTRIC

PO BOX 1085
Newberg

DC2 Construction Inc

3412 NE 127th St

DEBRA KLATZ DESIGN

17392 SW CONSTANCE ST
Beaverton

DEKORTE ELECTRIC INC

14865 SW 74th Ave. Unit 170
Tigard

Detemple Co Inc Plumbing Heating & Air

1951 NW Overton St
Portland

DeWolf Tile & Stone LLC

2056 NE Aloclek Dr
Hillsboro

Dixon Inc

8050 SE 13th Ave
Portland

DND ELECTRICAL CONTRACTORS

2019 NE Colvin Ct
Mcminnville

Dogwood Home Repair & Improvement LLC

2262 SE Park Ave
Portland

DONAA CONSTRUCTION INC

1976 SE REGNER RD
Gresham

DOT ELECTRIC INC

1437 SE HENKLE RD
Corbett

Double Diamond Home Maintenence

6505 North East 94th ave

Eagle Electric LLC

4134 N Vancouver Ave
Portland

EATON CONTRACTING INC

11508 NE 32ND ST

EATON GENERAL CONSTRUCTION

99 W HISTORIC COLUMBIA RIVER HWY
Troutdale

EcoTech

7302 N Richmond Ave
Portland

Edelen Doors & Windows

700 NE 102nd Ave
Portland

Electrical Design LLC

12042 Southeast Sunnyside Rd
Clackamas

Electrical Doctor

7206 NE 47th Ave.

Empower Electric Inc

3430 SW Scholls Ferry Rd
Portland

Encompass Construction & Maintenance Services

16076 S Harding Rd
Oregon City

Engel Remodeling

4100 Parkwood Way
West Linn

Enterprises Home Improvements, Inc

9505 SE 55th Ave
Portland

ESCM Inc

95 Foothills Rd
Lake Oswego

ESDS CORP

10700 SW BEAVERTON HILLSDALE HWY
Beaverton

Evergreen Renovations

14605 SW Bonanza Ct
Beaverton

Falcon Electric

2375 SW Cedar Hills Blvd
Portland

Fast Water Heater Company

4248 NE 148th Ave
Portland

Feinauer & Sons LLC

3278 NE 1st Pl
Hillsboro

FERRAZ SHAWMUT INC

5567 RIVER ST
West Linn

Fine Finish Remodeling

15710 SW Redstone Drive
Beaverton

Fix It Now Etc

2950 HUNTER WAY
West Linn

Fred's Sound of Music Audio Video Inc

3760 SE Hawthorne Blvd
Portland

Fresh Coat of Portland

6808 SE 74th Ave
Portland

FREUND CONSTRUCTION

10006 NE 81ST ST

Fritz Campbell Remodeling

1505 NE 52nd Avenue

Frontline Electric, Inc

1150 SE Laura Dr
Gresham

Full Throttle Mechanics LLC

7057 se powell blvd

Gaspro Inc

7603 SE Lounsberry Ln
Portland

Genesis Electric NW

3753 Kenthorpe Way
West Linn

George Morlan Plumbing Supply

5529 SE Foster Rd
Portland

GOHMAN MECHANICAL INC

14505 SE HIGHWAY 212
Clackamas

GREEN & MILLIGAN DESIGN INC

1833 NE 48th Avenue
Portland

GREEN EARTH CONSTRUCTION

2737 SE 115TH AVE
Portland

Green Planet Construction, LLC

po Box 246
Lake Oswego

GruntWorks by HouseHappy

380 NW 13th Ave.
Portland

H 2 Handy Pro

61535 S Hwy 97
Bend

HALE-STONE ELECTRIC

1814 NE BRYANT ST
Portland

Hammer and Wrench PDX

9834 SE Linwood Ave
Milwaukie

HammerWorks LLC

17514 SW 104th Ave
Tualatin

Handyman Matters

7350 SW Landmark Ln
Tigard

HARDLINE DESIGN AND CONSTRUCTION INC

8480 SE STRAWBERRY LN
Milwaukie

Harmony Contracting

1348 NE Zachary St
Hillsboro

HESSEL CUSTOM BLDG

827 NE Lombard St.
Portland

Hi-Def Electric

1110 NE 19th ct
Canby

Hollywood Lights, Inc.

5251 SE Mcloughlin Blvd
Portland

HOMEMASTERS Portland SW

7225 SW Bonita Rd
Tigard

Hopkins Home Inspection

4062 NE 10th Ave
Portland

HOUSEHOLD SERVICES LLC

2415 NE 61ST AVE
Portland

In Your Home

16869 SW 65th Ave
Lake Oswego

Industrial Safety Solutions

14791 SE 82nd Dr
Clackamas

Inselberg Contracting

10410 SW 41st Ave
Portland

J & S Home Maintenance LLC

15986 SE Tallina Dr
Damascus

Jacobs Heating & Air Conditioning, Inc.

4474 SE Milwaukie Ave
Portland

James Poggi Inc

1319 SE MLK Blvd
Portland

JAW Construction Inc

Po Box 2476
Gresham

JC CONSTRUCTION

4140 SW 203RD AVE
Beaverton

Jenkins Construction

6218 Ne 8th ave
Portland

Jerome Electric Inc.

404 SW CEDAR ST
Hillsboro

JIM HILL CONSTRUCTION

23167 NE Sunnycrest Rd
Newberg

JLA Enterprises LLC

16735 S Archer Dr
Oregon City

JLC Construction LLC

P.O. Box 25361
Portland

Jobs by Rob LLC

4546 NE 21st Ave
Portland

JOLMA ELECTRIC LLC

P.O. BOX #829

Joseph Ketner Construction

3800 NE Sandy Blvd
Portland

Kennedy Plumbing Inc

13985 SW Farmington Road
Beaverton

KEVORK'S AUTO CARE

10275 SW Park Way
Portland

Koven Construction

Hillsboro
Hillsboro

Kronstruction

18515 s fischers mill rd
Oregon City

Lakeside Custom Homes

170 Lakeview Dr

Lanphere Construction & Development

13625 SW Farmington Road
Beaverton

Larry Hudson Contracting

17455 Blue Heron Rd
Lake Oswego

Lear Electric Co.

6002 NE 112th Ave.
Portland

Liberty Electric

11774 SE Jennifer Street
Clackamas

Light Benders-Solatube - Beaverton

12825 SW Beaverdam Rd
Beaverton

Limited Energy Technologies

321 dayton ave
Newberg

LOVETT Inc

PO Box 86280
Portland

Lowe's Home Improvement

11413 NE 76th St

Lowe's Home Improvement - Tigard

12615 SW 72nd Ave
Tigard

Lyons Heating & Cooling

PO Box 849
Lyons

M C Merrill Construction LLC

2229 NE Burnside Rd
Gresham

M W C CONSTRUCTION

PO BOX 2553
Clackamas

MACDONALD MILLER

7717 DETROIT AVE SW

MACNSONS CONSTRUCTION INC

7888 SE 46TH AVE
Portland

Majo Ahrens Construction Inc.

1170 SE River Forest Rd
Portland

Maximum Construction

18410 S Green View Dr
Oregon City

Meoak Contracting LLC

16491 Hiram AVe

Michael Lex Construction

8820 SW 21st Ave
Portland

microtech telecom

5223 SE Lafayette St
Portland

Mike's Electric

11070 SW Allen Blvd.
Beaverton

Miller Residential Services

15055 se Thornton Drive
Portland

Mr Electric of Vancouver / Portland

5320 SW Macadam Ave
Portland

MRC Builders

West Linn

MT VIEW CONTRACTING CO

13350 SE BLUFF RD
Sandy

MULTIPHASE ELECTRIC LLC

20701 S MONPANO OVERLOOK DR
Oregon City

My Own 2 Hands

185th Ave
Beaverton

N W C - NICK WEITZER COMPANY

111 SE 71ST ST
Portland

Natural Light Skylight Co

8421 SW 59th Ave
Portland

Neil Kelly Design Build Remodeling

804 N Alberta St
Portland

NELSON ELECTRIC LLC

1745 4TH AVE
West Linn

Nemal Electronics

12240 NE 14th Ave

Nest-Assured Construction

873 SE Oak Glen Way Apt 242
Hillsboro

NORMANDIN ELECTRIC INC

51086 NW CLAPSHAW HILL RD
Forest Grove

NORTH SIDE ELECTRIC

706 NE 1ST ST

NORTHWEST LIGHT SOURCE

957 SW 15TH CT
Troutdale

Northwest Outdoor Living and Landscapes

16796 SE Royer Road
Damascus

Northwest Siding & Windows

17039 SW Edy Rd
Sherwood

NW Renovations

PO Box 186
Sherwood

NW Residential Inc.

P.O. Box 230635
Portland

Oakley Electric

4120 SE International Way
Portland

OASIS ELECTRIC

417 Willamette Street
Oregon City

Old Soldiers Construction

8385 SW IROQUOIS DR

On The Level Remodeling Co. 503.312.7708

10117 SE Sunnyside Road
Clackamas

One Touch Audio Video

17997 NW. Evergreen Pkwy.
Beaverton

Onion's Canby Electric Inc

790 S Ivy St
Canby

Oregon Builders & Restoration

19695 S. Leland Rd.
Oregon City

Oregon City Car Care

13851 S Beavercreek Rd Ste C104
Oregon City

Pac Restoration Services Inc.

PO Box 2517
Oregon City

Pacific Coast Sign Supply

940 SE 7th Ave
Portland

Pacific Networks

16869 SW 65th AVE
Lake Oswego

PACNORTH Homes

2407 NE 46th Street

Parker Tile And Stone

1446 NE Snell Ct
Hillsboro

Paul Cottle Construction LLC

4420 NE 54th Ave
Portland

PAUL'S HANDYMEN SERVICE

4820 SW BARBUR BLVD
Portland

Pavel's Tile Llc

2900 General Anderson rd

PDX Electric LLC

15816 SW Upper Boones Ferry Rd
Portland

Peak Electric Group, LLC.

11007 NE 109th St.

Permit-It, LLC

PO Box 998

Phillip Norman Attic Access

1234 NE 118th Avenue
Portland

Pivot Energy Solutions, LLC.

207, 1327 SE Tacoma St.
Portland

Portland Construction Solutions

14915 SW 72nd Ave.
Portland

Portland Electric Company

7975 SW 165th Avenue
Beaverton

Portland Installs

4273 SE Northridge
Portland

PORTLAND MARINE ELECTRONICS

12125 SE Hwy 212
Clackamas

PORTLAND TRADESMEN

2544 SE 16TH AVE
Portland

Priority General Contracting, LLC

13888 SE Beech St.
Portland

PRO CIRCUIT ELECTRIC

PO BOX 3948
Wilsonville

Pyramid Heating & Cooling

9409 NE Colfax St.
Portland

Qualified Electricians

15937 NE Airport Way
Portland

Quest Construction

690 SW 173rd Ave
Beaverton

Red Dog Remodel

PO Box 1611
Lake Oswego

Red's Electric Company Inc

3787 SE Naef Rd.
Portland

Renewable Electric LLC

25001 NE 188th Ct

RESTORATIONS BY K&C INC

3523 NE 119th Avenue
Portland

REVIVE CONSTRUCTION

9755 N SYRACUSE ST
Portland

Revive Remodeling LLC

PO Box 3074
Wilsonville

Revive Works

512 SW Maplecrest Dr
Portland

REYNOLDS CONSTRUCTION COMPANY

6860 SW NORSE HALL RD
Tualatin

Rich's Repair All

17611 NE 188th Ct

RICHARD ODLE

667 16TH AVE

RICHARD OLSON CONSTRUCTION

PO BOX 1098
Lafayette

Richart Family, Inc.

14600 NE 20TH AVE

Riggs & Martin Inc

14200 SE McLoughlin Blvd.SE MCLOUGHLIN BLVD
Milwaukie

Rite Way Electric Inc

2904 Three Lakes Rd SE
Albany

RJ RAMOS Construction Co.

6808 SW 74TH Ave.
Portland

RJO Construction

18133 SE Blanton St
Milwaukie

RK Electric Inc

3075 SW 234th Ave
Hillsboro

RKL Enterprises LLC

17126 SW Sumac Ct.
Beaverton

Robben & Sons Heating Inc

2214 SE 8th Ave
Portland

Ron's Repairs

21112 se yamhill st.
Gresham

Room Service Home Theatre Specialists

10120 SW Nimbus Avenue
Portland

ROSTER INTERIORS

4243 SE ALDER ST
Portland

RP Construction

6138 Inwood Ln S
Salem

Rupp Family Builders

29030 sw Town Ctr Lp E

S & L Remodeling

PO Box 74
Aurora

Safe Electric

p.o. box 1677
Gresham

Scholls Ferry Automotive

6600 SW Scholls Ferry Rd
Portland

Schulz Construction llc.

21395 SW Murphy Ln
Beaverton

Scottco Building & Design

11640 SW 135th Ave
Portland

SE Construction, LLC

PO Box 2294
Clackamas

Service Group Construction

10411 NE Fourth Plain,

Sherwood Auto Body

13985 SW Tualatin Sherwood RD
Sherwood

SIGNALING SYSTEM SOLUTIONS

13504 NE 84th St Ste 103

SignCraft Signs

8900 SW Burnham Street. Suite E109
Tigard,

Skandia Remodeling

11933 S E Sunny Way
Happy Valley

SKYLINE CONTRACTING LLC

4315 SE CRYSTAL SPRINGS BLVD
Portland

SLS CUSTOM HOMES

PO BOX 1093
Tualatin

SMITH HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING

14214 Fir Street
Oregon City

SOLAS LLC

2100 SE 29TH AVE
Portland

Square 1 Electric

10117 SE Sunnyside Rd
Clackamas

STATEWIDE ELECTRIC SERVICES

2100 SE SPARROW
Portland

Steve Zielinski, General Contractor

1414 SE 40th Ave
Portland

Steves Home Improvement

16485 SE Sunnyside Rd
Happy Valley

STONER ELECTRIC CO INC

2701 SE 14TH AVE
Portland

Stotts Construction Company

6879 sw 204th ave
Aloha

Straight Line Design & Remodeling LLC

4640 SW Beaverton Hilldale Hwy
Portland

suh & son mechanical

po box 6774
Portland

Summit Electric

12011 NE 50th Ave

SUN DOG CONSTRUCTION

Mt. Tabor. SE Portland.
Portland

Sun Glow Inc

2428 SE 105Th Ave
Portland

Sunlight Solar Energy, Inc. (Portland)

402 S. Beavercreek Rd
Oregon City

Sunrun Inc

Portland

Sunset Builders LLC

16552 SW Sunset Blvd
Sherwood

Sunset Heating & Cooling Inc

0607 SW Idaho St
Portland

Swich Electric

PO BOX 11233
Portland

Synergies Renovations LLC

3227 SE 56th Ave
Portland

T&K Mechanical

PO Box 116
Forest Grove

Ten Day Kitchens LLC

6663 SW Beaverton Hillsdale Hwy
Portland

TGL Construction LLC

9608 NE 59th Ave

The Heat Pump Store

11933 NE Sumner St
Portland

THE WORKS

1303 SE 6th Ave
Portland

THREE PHASE ELECTRIC

493 NE 3RD AVE
Canby

Tiny's Home Repair

20699 NE Glisan St
Fairview

Total Car Care Centers

305 SW 1st Ave
Canby

Tualatin Valley Concrete

8950 SW Locust St
Portland

Urban K. Hutchins Construction

54 SE 78th Ave
Portland

VALLEY ELECTRIC CO LLC

19707 GRANT RD
Monmouth

Vanguard Electric, Inc.

3800 Morris St.
Newberg

Vet To Pet

PO Box 10693
Portland

Volt Electric

13241 SE Holgate
Portland

VPE Electrical Services

8317 NE 126th Ave.

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

Watts Heating & Cooling

580 Portland Ave
Gladstone

West Side Electric Company

1834 SE 8th Ave
Portland

WESTERN OREGON BUILDERS

PO BOX 97220
Portland

WILLCO

920 SE Caruthers St
Portland

Wilson Restoration & Design

565 S. 9th St.
Saint Helens

Wire Rite Electric Inc

177707 NE 72nd Ave

WIRED RIGHT

2445 SW ROXBURY AVE
Portland

Young Electric

9999 SW Wilshire St
Portland

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