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A
"We had to adjust the schedule due to delays with other contractors. Dason
was very flexible and was able to reschedule without complaint." His team showed up on time and went right to work prepping the space and starting the spraying and slicing off the excess. Everything went smoothly and quickly. They cleaned up all the foam shaving and hauled it away. Given the age of the house, foam was the way to go. The rooms are now very tight and warm. This was a much better solution than fiberglass insulation and well worth the extra cost. Everyone on the team was courteous and professional.

-TIMOTHY P.

A
"The person who came out was extremely knowledgeable. I can't imagine anyone who knows more about energy conservation in a home other than this person. He was" extremely nice, very professional and did an excellent job. We are eagerly anticipating the write up to tell us what we can do to improve our energy efficiency in our home and will be definitely using their services to insulate our home.

-Jaesa M.

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Local Articles in South Beach

snowy house

The Angie's List Guide to Winter Maintenance

It's the time of year when the winter weather can take a toll. Follow this winter maintenance checklist to protect your home, your car and your health.

Without proper insulation and venting in your attic, icicles can form on your eaves, leading to a damaging ice dam on your roof, says Neubecker. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Donna B. of Mendota Heights, Minn.)

Avoid ice dams with proper attic insulation

Do you have icicles forming on your eaves and gutters and ice collecting on your roof? An ice dam can cause serious problems without proper insulation.

Even in cold-weather climates, homes often lack insulation between the finished, occupied portion of the home and the ground. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Paul B. of Bluffton, South Carolina)
Insulation, Energy Efficiency Auditing

Exterior foundation insulation is an often overlooked home improvement. It can help stop drafts, lower energy bills and keep your house warmer during winter.

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With insulation technology always advancing, you’ve got choices to make when it comes to the material you pick, says Lindus. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Lynn M. of Columbus, Georgia)
Insulation

Thinking of installing your own insulation? One highly rated provider shares six things that every homeowner should be aware of before attempting to DIY.

Before winter arrives, ensure your attic is sealed properly and has both adequate insulation and ventilation. (Photo courtesy of member Kitty Jones of Columbus, Ohio)
Insulation, Heating & A/C, Roofing

A comfortable, energy efficient home starts at the top. Those hot spots and cold rooms may relate to problems in your attic. Beyond adding insulation, what's a homeowner to do?

Angie's Answers

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Google and read about it. Some people swear by it, though their comments sound suspiciously like they were all written by the same person. Some call it a rip off - expecially people paying $6000-8000 for what would normally be a $1,000 range job.

I would not call it an outright fraud as they are providing a product that has some potential merit in the right application, but from a technical standpoint it sounds suspicious. They claim a 1/4 mat with doiuble sided foil facing is R-16 insulation. This at least is deceptive - they appear to be saying its radiant heat reflective properties give the equivalent of R-16 insulation, because there is NO WAY 1/4" foam is going to yield R-16 in an ASTM test for insulation, which is a thermal conductivity test. Would be lucky to get R-2 or so as an insulator, so this is basically a radiant barrier. Competing products from national brandname manufacturers list R value of 3.8-4.2 for one inch mats, so the equivalent for this 1/4" mat would be expected to be in the R1 range.

Properly installed, with ventilation on BOTH sides, it can be slightly effective in reducing radiant heat loss from the house, and more effective in reflecting heat in the attic from coming down into the house. However, from a thermodynamic and vapor control standpoint, they are trouble unless their integration into the house envelope is designed VERY carefully. Short explanation:

1) for keeping heat in the house, if they are installed above the attic floor insulation they can slightly limit air loss through the ceiling, and reflect radiant heat back down, resulting in warmer insulation, hence a warmer ceiling - but not as marked an improvement as added insulation would give.

2) for keeping attic heat from getting into the ceiling, they do reflect back a good portion of the radiant heat coming from the roof sheathing. This reduces the attic floor insulation surface temperature, so can reduce air conditioning cost. it does increase teh temperature in the attic, which can be very bad for support timbers and the roof sheathing.

3) the worst thing about how this type of foil radiant barrier is used is that, unless it has free air space on both sides, it acts as a vapor barrier. In the typicall application as a blanket over attic floor insulation, it traps any moisture coming up from the house, and can cause mildew and rot, especially in climates where the outdoor temperature gets quite cold.

4) the attic fans are generally a last resort measure - the normal house does much better, at no energy cost, using ridge vents with adequate eave openings to provide ventilation and cooling in the attic.

5) their effectiveness in winter heat diminshes rapidly with time - tests of attic radiant barriers show they lose about half their effectvieness within 5 years, because even a light dust coating greatly reduces their ability to reflect radiant heat, and greatly increases the absorption of heat from the hot air above them.

6) pay attention to cost - from what I see, their installed cost is many times the cost of normal insualtion or radiant barrier placement.

I would say, in summary, buyer beware, and I would be inherently leery of a product being sold the same way timeshares and "secret" moneymaking schemes are.

?

Obviously this is not a timely response to the initial question. However, for those who may be reading these answers at a later time, a couple of added thoughts:

1) the radiant barrier being discussed is basically heavy-duty metal foil or metallized surface on a plastic sheet, intended to reflect RADIATED heat (infrared radiation - think heat light, or heat you can feel at a distance radiated from a fireplace), the same way a mirror reflects light. Radiated heat is how a standard oven broils and how steam and hot water baseboard heat predominately work.

2) you generally should do NOT place a radiant barrier over the insulation that lies between and over the joists in a normal attic, especially in a region where the attic temperature can frequently reach condensation temperature (below about 45-50 degrees) - it may reflect back some of the house heat that is coming up from the house, but by destroying most of the temperature gradient from the house to the attic air destroys much of the driving force that moves moisture to the attic air and subsequent venting. Between that greater heat and the fact the barrier is also a moisture barrier, that makes a perfect condition for mold and rot in your insulation and attic wood, and has become quite an issue in energy upgraded homes because of retrofits that cut off airflow outside the insulation, but do not cut off the moisture source leaking thorough from the house. The proper and ONLY place for a vapor barrier in a normal attic insulation system is on the pressurized and normal warm, humid side of the insulation zone - directly above the ceiling drywall in the top floor, fastened to the UNDERSIDE of the ceiling joists or trusses, NOT anywhere above that. Perforated barriers are supposed to reduce this tendency, but the perforation area percentage is so small that typically they still act as a vapor varrier, just not a totally effective one.

3) radiant barriers reflect radiated heat ewith up to 99% efficiency but have basically zero resistance to CONDUCTION (body to body heat transfer at points of contact - think heat transfer from your warm hand to a frozen cold drink can, or hot pavement heat transfer to the bottom of your feet) - so there needs to be an air gap between the radiant barrier and the hot item passing the heat to it, otherwise the heat will just pass through it by conduction. Therefore, applying it directly to the sheathing (above or below) or manufacturing it directly on the surface of the sheathing defeats its purpose, even though this is commonly done.

4) there is a lot of discussion, particularly in the professional design community, about attic radiant heat barrier effectiveness and problems. Because they are being installed on the bottom of the sheathing or underside of roof joists, they act as a heat trap for the energy being conducted through the roof which would normally radiate into the attic air or be transferred by CONVECTION (fluid flow heat transfer) to the attic air, and be vented through roof vents, ridge vents, gable vents, etc. By trapping that heat, they are causing the underside of the shingles and particularly the felt and sheathing to get a lot hotter than they otherside would, essentially changing it from a system where the shingle top surface might reach 120-180 F and the inside surface of the sheathing about 80-140F in the summer, to making the entire roof system equal to the outside surface temperature. This causes more rapid shingle deterioration and cracking, and makes the felt or plastic moisture barrier under the shingles brittle and subject to failure.

Also, any moisture above the radiant barrier (from roof leaks or humid air coming into the area) is prevented from evaporating by the attic airflow which would normally remove it, so it starts acting like a steamer. I have seen both wood and metal lofts and attics become a major mold farm in months because of this effect, and a couple of roofs which started sagging due to rotted sheathing within 2 years of reroofing with tightly adhered radiant barrier. Some radiant barriers are vapor-permeable to reduce the moisture issue, many are not, but few actually are effective in letting moisture freely escape.

Having seen these products in use, and having analyzed and specified building products for use from the Middle East to the Arctic for decades, and having a Masters in Arctic Engineering (a degree predominately in energy conservation and heat flow), my personal opinion is that these radiant barriers will be banned by code within 10-15 years for unheated (so-called "cold" roofs) roofs, because they just do not use the principles of thermodynamics correctly. For more info on this issue Google the following search phrase  - moisture trapping by radiant attic barriers       and read the government (not the manufacturer) literature on the issue.

5) Unfortunately, the right way to handle this issue is to put the radiant surface on the OUTSIDE of the house - by using reflective materials on the roofing material. This is already done with flat roofs, house trailers, and industrial structures by spraying with alumiunum paint, and a few brands offer reflective aggregate shingles that are slightly more reflective and radiant than normal shingles. People obviously do not like this reflective surface from an aesthetic standpoint, though with solar cells coming into more general use this may soon be more widely adopted. The idea should be to keep the solar energy from penetrating into the building envelope at all, not try to re-reflect it away after it has penetrated throguh the roof system.

The sprayed-in foam has a couple of issues you need to be aware of:

6) it needs to be the low-pressure expanding type mixed for use around window frames, as fully expanding foam can bow joists or trusses and pop drywall ceilings free as it expands, and non-expanding foam actually shrinks as it cures, leaving gaps for air and heat flow alongside the ceiling joists.

7) being closed-cell it is essentially impervious to moisture, so the vapor barrier on the house side has to be EXCELLENT (incuding sealingof all penetrations), or it will trap household moisture escaping into the attic and promote mold and rot in the ceiling drywall and joists.

8) it tends to bleed chemical fumes into the house for a long period of time (can be noticeable for years), which may be objectionable to some people from an odor or environmental standpoint, and especially should be considered if any residents have severe allergy issues or respiratory problems.

9) I emphatically recommend AGAINST use of sprayed-in foam between ceiling joists or truss members in any area that can have cold attic air that could cause moisture condensation in the insulation, though this is probably not a significant problem where you live, assuming your Dallas is the city in Texas. For essentially year-around air-conditioned homes in hot climates, the problem can actually be condensation of attic air moisture on and in the colder ceiling surface insulation and on cold attic runs of air conditioned air, so attic ventilation becomes a critical issue to remove the moisture before it condenses.

In summary, having seen an awful lot of attic moisture and thermal problems, my personal recommendation would be to ensure excellent sealing of the house from the attic, use normal UNFACED fiberglass insulation, and instead of a radiant barrier ensure adequate full-attic ventilation. If you decide to got with a radiant barrier, then I would recommend a perforated one, sloping up towards the sides a foot or two and stopping a foot or so clear at the sides so moist air under it can escape to the roof joist spaces and be vented from the attic. I have seen this done several times with a fine nylon net strung above the insulation in the attic, supporting the barrier, resulting in something very similar to the double-roof system used in bedouin tents, where airflow between the two layers keep the hot air away from the living space.

?

A couple of comments about what Jim said:

1) Regarding type of insulation, in cold winter environments: Cellulose and fiberglass are actually about comparable in R value when installed - blown in cellulose runs from 3.2-3.8 R value, fiberglass batt 2.9-4.3 R value depending on manufacturer and whether hig-density or low density, high-efficiency or standard, according to official Department of Energy publications. Measured values in attic test cases, in areas with a true winter, after 10 years showed a decrease from 3.4 (in the test case) down to 2.1 for cellulose, and 3.5 to 3.3 for fiberglass batt, due to packing or matting. In an attic environment, there WILL be condensation or frost on the insulation at some point during the year (assuming an area with true winters) and in highly insulated houses commonly for a substantial time period each winter. Fiberglass packs down slightly from that weight but mostly rebounds, cellulose packs down and mats and does not substantially recover, so over the years cellulose loses 1/3 to close to 1/2 its insulation value, fiberglass about 10%.

2) a note on radiation barriers attached to the bottom of the rafters - there are a lot of installers and homeowners making two major mistakes with this product that can cause major trouble: First, be sure to terminate it short of the eave openings. I have seen cases where it was carried all the way out to the fascia board, thereby blocking all airflow on the underside of the roof. Even carrying it all the way to the eaves along the bottom of the rafters will block off ventilation to the main attic area. You have to leave the air space between the rafters open to full airflow from the soffit/eave area ot the ridge vent. Second, do NOT run it continuous from eave to eave across the full width of the attic - leave a gap about a foot wide under the ridge vents so warm and moist air in the attic can vent through the ridge vent. Closing the ridge vent area off with the radiant barrier effectively puts a vapor barrier around the main attic area, causing retention of the moisture which WILL accumulate there, promoting mold.

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Steve made a good point.  Also, while it isn't required to remove the old insulation you can check the ductwork, wiring, etc. with the old stuff removed,  You can also spray foam around all openings and holes in wall top plates to better seal your home as Steve was pointing out.  My concern is the potential for mold spores you mentioned in your question.  If you suspect there are any get a good company in to remove the old and clean the attic.  Another concern is asbestos.  Your home is old enough you could have it in there and that's worse than mold if released into the air.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
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Insulation reviews in South Beach

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Rating
I purchased the deal because of the offer to optionally clean for $49. This was not even an option. The whole point of the inspection was to sell the cleaning and lining of the space for thousands of dollars. When I showed the very nice and very polite person who did the inspection the "deal" and the terms for the cleaning, he said it was not available, but after I insisted, called the owner who offered me the thousands of dollars offer at a discount. If I only wanted the inspection, it may have been okay, but what I really wanted was the optional offer to vacuum and clean it and was willing to pay $98 for this. I was extremely upset that this offer was not available, but didn't write this review until I saw this offer repeated with the same sub-offer in my email today.
- Sally H.
A

Rating
They checked our heating system, for rodent damage, under the house, and also in the attic. They did a wonderful job on the inspection! I have to have an exterminator out first to remediate a rodent issue. After that is taken care of
South Beach Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
Service and replace all of our insulation.
- Tena C.
N

Rating
The man was very proficient, pleasant, and wanting to exceed my expectations. He accomplished that goal. Very good job. On-time, did a good job.
- Ed P.
A

Rating
They did a great job.
South Beach Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
, the owner, makes sure that you know about the product and follows up very well on all communications. They gave me a very good price.

They are a very friendly hard working team that I'd recommend to everyone. They did an outstanding job.
- Gary H.
A

Rating
We cannot say enough great things about our experience with
South Beach Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
in both the communication throughout the process and finished product.
From day one they responded to our call immediately. Came our and surveyed the house for the appropriate insulation. The following day they came back with a quote that beat the other 3 quotes that we had gotten previously. Usually we are a little skeptical with going with the low bid but this time we felt comfortable with their professionalism, previous review and certifications that we decided to go with them.
Later that week they were back at the house installing the insulation. They arrived and met with my husband and were under teh spraying. Mind you this was also not an easy job with all the pipes and debris that were under the house. They worked around them without any complaint and were finished in a few hours.
I arrived home later that day and the results were immediate. The insulation made the house all an even temperature and our heater was finally able to keep up with the cold. As an added bonus the house is a lot quieter!
South Beach Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
called back the following day to assure everything went well which it did. We are very happy with their work and will definitely hire them again to insulate our second home.


- Margitta R.
A

Rating
South Beach Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
from
South Beach Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
, the owner, came out to give me an estimate. He was very knowledgeable, friendly and responsive. He checked the existing insulation in the attic, did some infrared camera scans and gave me a quote. He was familiar with and one of the approved installers of the CenterPoint Energy attic air sealing and insulation rebate program.
He was able to schedule the work before the deadline for the rebate program. He and this three employee crew came out to do the job. They were professional, put down drop cloths all the way from the entrance to the upstairs attic door.
South Beach Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
checked the tightness of the house before and after the job using blower door test. This was included in the quote.
South Beach Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
and his one employee checked and sealed all the electrical, plumbing penetrations in the attic and sealed the box around the recessed lights.
South Beach Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
himself blew in the cellulose on top of the existing blown-in fiberglass insulation. The clean up was very thorough. They went out of their way to put a cover over the attic door insulation to keep it in place, which was nice! The attic door was sealed with caulk.
Very happy with the work. Would recommend them any day.
- Amar K.
B

Rating
It wasn’t all what we expected but what they did do helped us. The worker was nice, professional, and trying to be helpful. They got the job done in about 45 minutes.
- Christopher M.
A

Rating
It was good but I didn't use the deal because I didn't know prices and how they worked before I purchased the Big Deal. They wanted to do the whole house rather then the 1200 sq ft that I originally wanted so the quote was higher then I expected.
- nishanth P.

All Insulation Contractors in South Beach, OR

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

ABB STOVES LLC

3800 River Road N #180
Keizer

Aden Roofing

6280 SW Pamela
Portland

All Pro Handymen

PO Box 785
Lincoln City

All Season Windows

PO Box 6799
Portland

Alpha Ecological Oregon

1001 SW 5th Ave
Portland

American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd

American Maintenance Company

8787 Old Fort Rd
Klamath Falls

Best Roofing Co.

1424 SE 9th St.
Lincoln City

Cary Greenlee Construction

20884 King Hezekiah Way
Bend

Champion Window of Portland

13009 NE David Cir
Portland

COASTWIDE CONSTRUCTION

PO BOX 891
Pacific City

Exterior Touch Inc.

12610 Waverly RD.

Gale Contractor Services

3587 Hwy 101 N
Gearheart

Harmony Contracting

1348 NE Zachary St
Hillsboro

John's Waterproofing

201 Airport Rd
Silverton

McCoy's Home Repair

4023 Siletz Hwy
Lincoln City

Mighty Mike's Handyman Services LLC.

452 Scott St S.
Monmouth

Neil Kelly Design Build Remodeling

804 N Alberta St
Portland

NW Insulation Experts, LLC

2225 SW Lafollett Rd
Cornelius

PARKER BUILDINGS INC

3540 2ND ST
Hubbard

Permit-It.com

PO Box 998

Premier Design Group

3737 N Alaska St
Portland

ProBuild - Seaside

84808 Frontage Rd
Seaside

RP Builders Construction

P.O. Box 1574
Newport

RP Construction

6138 Inwood Ln S
Salem

TerraFirma Foundation Systems

761 NE Garden Valley Blvd
Roseburg

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

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