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Local Articles in Mcminnville

Angie's List
Drywall, Fencing, Fencing & Driveway Gates, Painting - Exterior, Painting - Interior, Plumbing, Remodeling - Basements, Remodeling - General, Remodeling - Kitchen & Bathroom, Remodeling - Modular & Mobile Home, Roofing

Houston roofing complaint | Contractor claims leaks are coming from plumbing, not roof.

Angie's List
Remodeling - Basements, Remodeling - General, Remodeling - Modular & Mobile Home, Roofing
Homeowner claims property manager hired to oversee roofing work, drywall repair and electrical upgrades allowed contractors to do unsatisfactory and incomplete work.
Angie's List
Florists, Handymen, Landscaping, Landscaping & Lighting, Remodeling - Basements, Remodeling - General, Remodeling - Modular & Mobile Home

Consider the building materials you use to create outdoor trellises or overhangs, and be sure to spruce up the space with a bit of green.

Angie's List
Remodeling - Basements, Remodeling - General, Remodeling - Kitchen & Bathroom, Remodeling - Modular & Mobile Home, Remodeling - Sunrooms & Patio Enclosures

Whether you’re planning a kitchen and bathroom remodel, or just want to add some extra living space to your home, do your homework before you hire. Separating the good contractors from the bad isn’t as difficult as it might seem.

Angie's Answers

Todd said it best.

An itemized list / cost breakdown, more often than not is used against the contractor when it is shared with other builders who will then beat it.

Good contractors use good people, and good people cost more.  Just the cost of having the appropriate insurance / bond can be the difference between winning a job or losing it ot a 'lower bid'.

It is the rule of three; there is Good, Cheap and Fast.  You can have any two:  Good and Cheap, won't be Fast; Good and Fast, won't be Cheap;  Cheap and Fast, won't be Good!

When comparing bids, it isn't the cheapest or the 'nicest' person you should select.   You should understand why there is a large price difference (it shows there are gaps in your design program or what you have asked for specifically, which means there may be arguments later).  If most of the bids are in line, and one is way high or way low,  you want to know why before dismissing or selecting them.

A price-only decision almost always costs more in the long run. 

Good luck!

No.  Heck no.  Here's a good example.  We very recently needed to find someone to install about 500 square feet of exotic wood flooring (we already have the materials).  We contacted about 12-15 top-rated Angieslist contractors.  Out of the few who did get back to us, we got 5 quotes, 2 of them were literally just over the phone.  They "didn't feel it would be necessary to even see the space". 


Here were the bids: 

$4000 (sight unseen), $2800 (sight unseen), $2500, $1500, $1450


We didn't "share our budget for this".  Why would we?  We asked them to bid the job.  That's it.  All of them should be well-qualified and they are all highly rated.  We were interested in how THEY value their time/resources - for an apples/apples job. 


Do you still think that you should tell them about your budget?  Your choice.  From my standpoint it isn't their business.  I'm asking them to bid on a project.  Invariably I'll get some very high bids, medium bids and a few more reasonable ones - ALL from "highly rated contractors". 

For this type of job, you need plans and specs from an Architectural/Engineering firm before thinking about contractors - and to get a building permit. Ben's method would work and done incrementally could cost well over $100,000 plus as he says, but this not really the most economic way to approach this big a job. A House Mover or Foundation Underpinning specialty company can usually slide your house onto a whole new foundation, or jack it up on steel beams and hold it there while a basement is dug underneath it, without any intermediate piers. The jacking/move cost would probably be on the order of $30-40,000, and a new basement probably about $40-50,000 - rough ballpark, though I have been involved in some 1000-1500SF single story jobs that went for under $70,000 total. I have been involved in a fair number of these type jobs - and the way the numbers come out, if there is room on the property to move the house, it is almost always nearly as cheap or cheaper to build an equivalent square footage (basement plus ground level) addition rather than add a basement under the house, and that way your new footage is half above ground so worth more on resale, plus you do not lose use of the house for a month or two. Second cheapest is usually sliding house to a new foundation, if property is large enough to do this - though house is totally cut off from utilities for a week to three. Most expensive, and usually only done in tight city environments or with full 2 story or higher houses, is adding the foundation in place, though your utility interruptions should be on the order of hours at a time rather than days or weeks. Talk to an architect - I think you will quickly lean towards the addition option rather than adding a basement - it is just too expensive to deepen foundations in most cases, plus you WILL get cracking in the house and possible water and sewer pipe problems in a move/underpinning job, which is not the case with an addition. This become more likely the case since you want to add 8 feet off the back of the home anyway - so why not just enlarge the addition and do it all that way - MUCH simpler, and MUCH less disruption of your life, and you get much higher resale return on your investment.

Herlonginc's answer stated that it is not the contractor's job to pay for materials and labor to do the job. I say baloney - a reputable, established contractor has the funds (or a business operations line of credit) to "carry" the job between interim or partial payments, each of which should be keyed to completion of distinct easily measured mileposts in the job, and for a homeowner I would say should be in not more than 20% increments for jobs exceeding a week or so. For shorter jobs, then an initial payment, 50% completion, and completion would be normal. His cost of carry funds is part of his cost of doing business, and is figured as part of his overhead.Bear in mind when he is buying materials and paying labor, his materials he typically pays for on a 10-30 day invoice, and his labor typically a week or two after they work, so he is not really "fronting" that much money if you are giving him weekly or biweekly interim payments, on a typical residential job.

If he does not have the funds to buy materials (excepting possibly deposit on special-order or luxury items, which still typically are 10-30 day invoiceable to him) and hire personnel then he is a fly-by-night operation, and he should not be bidding that size job. You should never (other than MAYBE an earnest deposit of not more than the LESSER of 10% or $5000) let the payments get ahead of the approved/inspected work progress - typically payment should be 10-20% BEHIND the progress, with at least 10% retained at the effective end of work until final inspections and completion of the final "punchlist".

That promotes rapid continuation of the work, discourages the all-too common nightmare of contractors taking on more work than they can handle so they leave your job for weeks or months to go work on someone else's job (frequently to start that someone else's new job so he can get the job), and does not leave you out a tremendous amount of cash if he does not finish and you have to hire another contractor to finish the job. Remember, if you have to hire a new contractor to finish the job, he will charge you a lot more than the original bid to finish someone else's unfinished mess.

This may seem cynical, but having started in the construction business about 50 years ago and seeing the shenanigans that a lot of contractors pull you cannot be too safe. You have to remember contractors are like any other people - I would say maybe 10% are outright crooks, another 25% or so will pull a fast one or overcharge if the opportunity presents itself, maybe 30% will do the work but not any better than they are forced to, about 25% are good conscientious reputable workmen, and the last 10% or so are really spectacular - conscientious, fair, and efficient craftsmen. This top 35% are the only ones you should have bidding in the first place. Therefore, only get bids from long-term reputable firms (so you shake out the marginal short-timers with less experience and also generally less ability to finish the job on budget and schedule), only those that have good RECENT references, and preferably with excellent word-of-mouth recommendation from people you know and trust. That way, you are starting right off with the cream of the crop, so hopefully whichever one bids low should be a good choice.

NEVER start with bids, then check the references of the low bidder - why even consider a vendor or contractor who you do not have faith in from the start ? Get references and short-list you possibles BEFORE you ask for bids.

Low bids - that is another matter - commonly the low bidder is NOT who you want, especially if he is significantly lower than several others, which might mean he is desperate for work, made a math error, or did not correctly figure the entire scope of work. You want a reasonable bid with someone you connect with and trust - that is worth a lot more in the success of the job than the absolute lowest bid.


You should always get a set of print and pull a permit when remodeling you home. It is a good thing that you want to be involved in your project. I do have some reservation about the electrical work. There is a lot at risk with doing the work yourself. If the house burns down you will never get the insurance money, unless your a certified electrician. Now of days 90% of home fires are blamed on electrical problems because the insurance company is to lazy and cheap to investigate the true problem. Also find out if the city you live in will allow you to perform the work. Make sure you coordinate your subs to have the proper time and space to perform their job. You don't want people working on top of each other. If you order all you materials make sure everything is there before you start your project. Have your subs check for proper and full items to be installed. Make sure every sub has a working set of prints. Make sure you have all the demo done before your subs show up to work. Schedule your plumber first, do any final framing or electrical work while you wait for inspection. Electrical inspection next followed by framing, insulation, and wallboard. All subs must get a final inspection on the job before you (the GC) can call in your final inspection.
The answer depends on your contract.  If you do not have a written contract, you need to begin documenting everything.  Begin by using a calendar and marking the days the contractor started, worked, you had to speak to him/her about the work, etc.

Next photograph the work you feel is sub-par.  If work has been corrected, photograph it now to have a record of its condition.  If you have any "original" or "before work began" pictures get those together, too.

If you do have written contract, see what it says about warranties, complaints, failure to finish / comply, etc.  Holding the money may end up with the contractor taking YOU to court for the funds - you cannot just hold the money.  You need to document in writing what is wrong, what you expect to happen (be specific) and when it should happen by.  A good contract will explain if and how money can be held, how the arbitration or complaint is filed, etc.

You should also invite another contractor to come in and bid the work to finish the job.  They can confirm the quality of the work and give you a price to fix / finish the job.  This gives you justification for holding the funds and an option to finish the job.

If the contractor is not willing to fix the work or listen to direction, do not allow them back in the house.  A judge will ask you why you let them continue to do work if you found it unacceptable.  Take back the key or access to the building - you can also attempt holding any materials or tools as collateral if the cost of repair is higher than the amount owed.  Again, document what you are holding, its estimated value (google or ebay search), etc.

Finally, in writing you should fire the contractor and state the exact reason(s).  Document everything; if it is done in person after they leave make notes of what was said, agreed upon and disputed.  If you are satisfied that what you have paid is fair compensation for the work done, make sure this is noted in the letter firing the contractor.  If you feel money is owed, you will need to file a small claim in your local court.  Include the documentation you made, notes, letters, etc. when you file your claim so the judge will have a copy of everything.  Don't forget to contact the BBB.

Do not wait for the court date; go ahead and hire the other contractor and have the work completed.  Bring this invoice to court with you (file it before the court date if you can).  Bring photos of the finished work (again, file it with the court before the date if possible).  You must show what good quality work looks like vs the poor quality work.

Otherwise it will be a your word against the contractor and you will most likely lose, (the contract is a promise to pay for work) or even if you "win" you will most likely split the difference between the argued amount of money.  Also be prepared for the contractor to file a small court claim against you.  Same process as above, except now you will respond to the summons with a copy of your stuff to defend your reason for holding funds instead of asking for money back.

Good luck!

Modular And Mobile Home Remodelers in Mcminnville, OR

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

52 Weeks Construction

872 W Main Street G59

A Guy I Know Inc

2850 SW Cedar Hills Blvd. #345

A Team Renovations LLC

3820 SE Clark Ct

A&O Products

Po Box 106

A.C.S. Northwest

6028 se 51st ave

AAA Cleaning

15559 s Neibur rd
Oregon City

Above Board Handyman Services

312 N Garfield Street

Action Brothers Construction

8750 SE 155th Ave
Happy Valley

Adams General Construction

410 NE 3rd St

Advanced RV

11154 Portland Rd NE

Affordable Remodeling LLC

7967 Mykala Street NE

AFJ Handyman Service

14807 NE 50th St.

All About Deck & More LLC

1208 Hillsdale Dr

All Generations LLC

PO Box 2342

All Seasons Remodeling llC

4380 SE Whiteson Rd.

AMA Construction Group

2272 SE Brookwood Ave

Americas Best Cleaning Services

9301 sw. Sagert st.

Amerson Homes, LLC

PO Box 622


7400 SE Milwaukie Ave

Artisan Painting And Remodeling

8010 SE Otty St Building B

Artistic D-Zine Construction LLC

19379 meyers rd
Oregon City

Avenue Flooring

35531 Firway Ln
St. Helens

B&Js Handyman Services Portland

8520 SE Woodstock Blvd

Bare Wood Decks & Remodeling, LLC

17185 SE Meinig Ave

BG Construction

20817 NE 87th Ave

Billy Gene Judge Company

729 3rd St
Lake Oswego


PO Box 1010 Canby

Bluebird Construction Inc

2245 SE Brooklyn St

Breunig Construction Inc.

14360 SE Haze Ct.

Bridgeport Restoration LLC

1819 SW 5th AVE STE 280

Bronze Construction Services, Inc.

4130 SW 117th #159

C. Ellis Construction LLC

PO Box 515
Forest Grove

Calhoun Ventures

20965 N Highway 99w

Callmark Construction, Inc.

10543 SW 80th Ave

Cardinal LLC

205 NW 46th Street

Cascade NW Construction

207 Dixon Ave.


1905 SW 257TH AVE

CM & Sons Roofing

PO Box 188
Forest Grove

Construction Junction

2035 SW Leewood Dr

Cottonwood Construction Corp.

P.O. Box 25430

Countertops R US

21875 S Foothills Ave
Oregon City

Creative Home Remodeling

7350 SW Landmark Ln

Cumulus Design

P.O Box 57
Saint Helens

CW Contracting Inc

11640 Geranium Pl
Oregon City



D&J Remodeling

20672 NW Quail Hollow dr

D&L Services

130 se 16th ct.

Dale's Remodeling

5514 Commercial St SE

David E. Logue Construction

3564 SW. Hillside dr

Decca Hardwood Company

6417 SE Powell Blvd

Diamond Crest Construction Inc.

P.O. Box 3042

DIY Cabinet Warehouse

4305 NW Saint Helens Rd



Eleven Engineering & Design, LLC

825 NE 20th Ave.

Encompass Construction & Maintenance Services

16076 S Harding Rd
Oregon City

Engaging Environments LLC

15626 SE Martins S

Evergreen Renovations

14605 SW Bonanza Ct

Faville Custom Contracting

P.O. Box 20891

Finest Custom Construction, LLC

32361 S Wright Rd

Fresh and Clean

2615 neals ln

Fritz Campbell Remodeling

1505 NE 52nd Avenue

G&Z Construction

9112 Ne 92nd Avenue

Gerardo Loeza Floors, LLC

1668 SE Madrona Drive

Green O Construction, LLC.

1112 SE Maple St #C

Greenlink Construction Group

6995 SW Straughan Rd

Gregory Braswell Construction

19197 sw smith ave #78

Gresham Roofing and Construction

16921 Southeast Tristin Avenue
Happy Valley


8630 SW Scholls Ferry Rd

H and H Contractors LLC

7015 N Leonard St

HammerWorks LLC

17514 SW 104th Ave





Heavy Hitter Construction LLC.

3110 SE Tualatin Valley Hwy

Highland Ridge Development Corp

19687 Falcon Drive
Oregon City

His Builders LLC

PO Box 967

Homecraft Remodeling

1506 Deborah Rd.

hq construction

2707 ne 84th ave

Insignia Construction

553 se 3rd

JDM Electric

PO Box 1628

John Webb Construction & Design

1256 Willagillespie RD

K & R Quality Construction LLC

85861 Bailey Hill Rd

KBM Construction llc

PO Box 1604

King Brothers Construction, Inc.

P.O. Box 82474

Kroon's Construction, LLC

537 Bryant Hill Rd.

Kurz Construction, LLC

22550 Finn Road

Lamont Bros.

2050 S Beavercreek Rd 101 305
Oregon City

Lanphere Construction & Development

13625 SW Farmington Road

M.S.T Construction

522 NW 23rd AVE

Martian Construction, LLC

P.O. Box 56146

Martin General Contracting

2240 SW Huntington Ave.

Meoak Contracting LLC

16491 Hiram AVe

Meyer Construction

2241 B St
Forest Grove

Meyers Green Steel Homes

202 NE Everett Rd

Mt Hood Construction Inc

PO BOX 263

Mt. Hood Custom Construction Inc.

16076 S Harding Rd
Oregon City

My Own 2 Hands

185th Ave

New World Inc


North BEST ECO Blasting

7025 SE 117th PL

NW Kitchen Designs

6103 NE Saint James Rd

Old Soldiers Construction


On The Mark Construction LLC

8231 NE Wygant St

Original & Custom Artwork, Prints, & Framing

3120 NW John Olsen Ave

Owl Construction

24242 SW Gage Rd


2407 NE 46th Street

PDX Home Care

2459 SE TV HWY #244

Pearly Everlasting LLC

9646 N Ivanhoe

Permit-It, LLC

PO Box 998

Premier Design Group

3737 N Alaska Street

Pro Design Construction LLC

236 S 5T Ave

R& E Construction LLC

16215 SW Cameron Ct

Rand Blackman Construction

1018 Polk St
Oregon City

Raul Cervantes

13620 SW Beefend Rd, #54

Red Head Rehabs

1541 N Laurel Avenue

Renew Construction llc

26300 s laurel rd

Renovation Arts LLC

1404 Birch St
Forest Grove


3523 NE 119th Avenue

Rex Yetter Remodeling LLC

9301 SW Sagert St

Riggs Construction, Inc

PO Box 219
Eagle Creek

Roseland Renovations

4661 SE LaCour Ct

RP Construction

6138 Inwood Ln S

RSD Construction

4275 SE Russell St

Saints Construction LLc

14406 se arista dr.

Schulz Construction llc.

21395 SW Murphy Ln

Service Group Construction

10411 NE Fourth Plain,


2206 SE Washington


657 SE Yamhill St

Stahlmann Home Services, LLC

1500 S Sandoz Rd Unit 24

Stone NW

7002 NE 88th St

Stroud Built Structures

9208 Sweek Dr


pmb 606/8002 Ne hwy 99 ste b

Superior Renovation

1873 SW High St

Tamlee Construction

9670 SW Hillview Ct.

Tasos Construction

112 SE 57th Ave

the affordable home doctor

1586 SE Marion St

The SHIR Corporation

9411 NE HWY 99 Ste. 1

The Unplugger

5335 SE 104th Ave


1334 SW 57TH AVE

Tom Miller Remodeling, Inc.

3636 SE Glenwood Street

Trapper's Mobile Home Service Inc

18126 S Palmer Rd
Oregon City

Treadline Construction

4030 SW Borland Rd


PO Box 500

United Builders Inc.

17610 NE 27th way

Whole Home Construction

14305 NE Piper st


1829 NE Waterfront St

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